As noted in
here is the How-To write up as promised. I believe it will also work for the T5e.
I wanted to do this first extra oil change at 5K miles, but ran out of time before our trip to Ohio. So i did it after we returned to MA at 6425 miles.
For this engine, the manual recommends a special 0W20 Castrol Edge Professional synthetic, but dealers don't have it, nor can I find it anywhere in the US or at a reasonable price. Dealers buy 5W30 Castrol Edge Professional synthetic in drums and use it in all Volvo engines. I found 6 liters on eBay. Mobil 1 0W30 would have been my second choice. There are more details on oil choice in:
The Volvo plastic filter housing will need a 16-flute 86mm end-cap socket. Neither Autozone, NAPA, nor CAP has this size, but I found several alternatives on line, then ended up ordering a 3/8" drive Lisle 61660 86mm 16-Flute End Cap Wrench, which had all 5 star reviews on Amazon. This size seems to be used by Volvo and BMW. You can see it at left in this picture, which also shows the extra housing, 2 filter elements, 2 magnetic drain plugs, and numerous crush washers from eEuroparts.
[IMG]OC1 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
First, put on the ebrake, chock a rear wheel, and follow your manual to find the front jack points. I used a floor jack and jack stands for safety. About 6" high is enough. You may also prefer ramps or be fortunate enough to have a lift or are thin enough to do this on an XC60 without jacking it up at all. Remove the 8 T30 screws that hold the bottom cover and undo the clips at left and right, then move the cover out of your way.
I was pleased to find neither engine nor transaxle leaks, while the steering, ball joint, and CV joints boots were clean and dry. Here is a view looking up at the front of the pan, with filter housing at left, oil-to-liquid cooler at center, and what must be the oil level sensor cable below it.
[IMG]OC2 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
Here, you can see the air pipe to the intercooler at center and transmission oil-to-liquid cooler at right.
[IMG]OC3 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
While under there with my phone, I thought some may be interested in other views. Here is the turbo
[IMG]OC5 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
And I think this is the CAT..note that it has supplier company names on the label. I was disappointed in not being able to see the supercharger, which seems to be hidden by heat shields.
[IMG]OC6 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
Here is the back of the pan, with the original (non-magnetic) 17 mm hex head drain plug at center.
[IMG]OC4 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
Undo the drain plug and let the oil into a pan from which you can pour it into a calibrated container if you want measure it's volume. If you are collecting a sample to send away for analysis, first let out about 2L, collect the sample (~0.1L), then let out the rest. Then undo the filter housing and dump it's oil into the pan. Ours was loose enough to turn by hand. There was 5L of oil plus the sample, quite close to the Volvo-specified capacity of 5.7 US qts (5.4 liters). The sad story of why i found it necessary to measure the old oil because Volvo chose to replace the dipstick with an on/off level indication is in:
Looking up after removing the filter housing. The mess was not as bad as I expected, easily cleaned up with brake cleaner spray.
[IMG]OC8 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
I usually use assembly lube, so put some on the O-rings at each end of the filter, the housing, and the new magnetic drain plug. Here, you can also see the oil sample and the old vs. new drain plugs.
[IMG]OC7 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
Our dealer gave me the torque specs, which I posted in another thread:
"The drain plug torque is 38 Nt-m and the oil filter housing is 25 Nt-m. Volvo does not recommend removing the plug in the filter housing that is for the European market only."
The housing has torque specs on it: 25 Nt-m overall and 4 Nt-m for the plug, which is 6 mm allen. I'm not sure what they use the plug for in Europe, but it may help to let the oil out in a controlled stream to reduce the mess when you remove the filter housing.
Don't forget the new crush washer. After torqueing, pour in 1 liter of new oil, then check for leaks. Then pour in 3 more liters, start the engine and let it idle for a minute or so, shut it off, and check for leaks. After it has been off for 10-15 minutes, you may want to also check the electronic oil level sensor. With 4 liters of new oil, ours displayed
[IMG]oillow by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
When I added another 0.5L, it displayed:
[IMG]oilOK by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]
I should have added smaller increments to see exactly where the electronic dipstick's threshold is; what i did only shows that it's between 4 and 4.5L. If the specified 5.4L at MAX is accurate and MIN is 1 L less, the threshold would be 4.4L at MIN. If someone can do that and post the result here, we will appreciate your effort!
Add the remaining new oil. I put a total of 5L in., but may add another 0.4L, according to the specified capacity, to allow for a bit of oil it may have consumed, that didn't drain out, or ended up in a rag. Secure the cap and replace the bottom cover. Don't forget the chocks.
Good Luck! Please post any observations or improvements. Thanks in advance.
Upon hearing from Blackstone, I will summarize the results here.