Love the bronze!
2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
2006 & 2007 XC70
VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
Previous: 2006 S60R
Hey, do you happen to have the part number for the trans cooler? Its my turn now Also did you tune for the DO meth? I have mine sitting next to me with the BIG Snabb FMIC going in soon
I have been meaning to make a thread on the cooler since there is a lot to note, I guess I can try doing it tonight/tomorrow I've been too busy earlier I still am.
I did tune for meth with Hilton. We did a bunch of data logs on my existing stage 2 and he made a "stage 2.25" for meth on advanced mode. So in comfort/sport I am in a regular stage 2 then in advanced it's a nut tune for meth. We also dialed in the start/full on the meth control for the tune; got it to where it pulls no timing WOT.
I also got a new Mark II intercooler, it's skinnier than my Mark I so it should alleviate some of the tightness up there.
I found a few on Ebay, they doubled the prices since last year...
Yeah back in May of '15 I got a stage 2 with the 4C modes.
Then last July I just paid tuning hours for him to optimize the original tune for meth and cat delete
Holy cow MvI, your car is immaculate. Hella thumbs up.
2004 423/SR-M66 DEAD 10/13/16
2004 452/SR-M66 Selling
2007 612/SR-M66EVERYTHING... Why? Because #racecar https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...g-to-be-nasty)
I haven't updated this in a while so I guess I will now. I've been so busy lately it's been crazy but things slowed down a bit. The car didn't move from the garage from Thanksgiving until May 12th when I finally finished her and pulled her out.
I spent a lot of time on maintenance, normally I wouldn't care to mention but I will to let others know a few things. I changed to plugs, coils and other items while I had everything open. I also changed the coolant and I didn't know how grot it was. I swapped to a Nissens radiator since I snapped one of the fan mounts when I first did my IC so I figured I'd flush it all. I was only able to get about 7 of the 9 quarts out but I then filled it up with straight distilled water to swish out the last two quarts in there. My car doesn't have a nipple on the oil cooler splitters in the back for some reason so I just took off one of the oil cooler lines. When I dumped the old coolant there was a layer of scum on the bottom of the container and it was way worse than pictured. I would really recommend flushing your coolant often and use distilled water when you do. The silly cow at the register in my local grocery store wasn't happy I bought all their distilled water but oh well. I used Pentosin coolant with Amsoil boost.
I also got the injectors ultrasonically cleaned and they all flowed better across the board. They were pretty nasty to start and they were mint after. They used some sort of odd insulator but it works so I didn't complain. I used injectorexperts.com since they are in Ohio. Few day turnaround, owner is really cool. Be sure to send to their PO Box and not the address on their site, the address is actually the post office.
I also drilled out the poly mount underneath some and my god is it fantastic. It still shifts really swift with it but the vibrations are now very tolerable for poly. I forgot what size bit but I can find out if need be. If I were to do it again, I would drill less. Drill this many if your girl is complaining about it or something. But it allows for just enough movement to smooth out the vibrations but still gets stiff enough when a large force is applied like during a shift.
I also got my steering wheel reskinned by a company in Britain, royalsteeringwheels.com. I wanted alcantara but they can't do that because the shape of the grips are too complicated, it'l wear out too quick. Instead, I got perforted leather around the outside with Nappa leather on the grips and a Nappa section up top. It feels absolutely fantastic and it honestly changes the way the car feels completely. It also makes the inside smell like leather hide now, I bet our cars smelled like that new. If I were to do this again, ONLY use UPS to ship it and claim minimum value to keep cost down. Now UPS did lose it on the way back but they found it after I pitched a b*tch. Nonetheless, they offer the best tracking for international. Also you gotta tear the wheel down to the core including all the metal pieces inside, very easy to do.
Be CRAZY sure you do NOT spin the steering wheel sensor (SAS) when you take the wheel off, it is very easy to do. If you do, you will get codes for the chassis settings and brakes and you gotta take the wheel off again, like I had to. With the wheel off, turn the sensor until it reads 0 degrees on VIDA, put the wheel and airbag back in then calibrate it while the wheels are aimed ahead and it's level.
I also have a piece of advice for any methanol users that use their washer tank as a reservoir. I noticed after this summer there was some sediment on the bottom of the tank even after I flushed it crazy well before converting. After some digging on VIDA, I found out there is a fine OEM filter that we can use from S70s, it is part number 6800092. Take out the rubber grommet and it goes right under, get a new grommet too if you can, I don't have the part no. for that anymore. Also to completely close the system, put a transmission vent chimney on the vent on the top of the tank. I got this green one from Oreielys, just ask for a transmission vent. It had to fit over the tube and I hot glued it tight. You cannot pinch this tube closed or else it won't displace air in the tank when you fill/it drains, I did in the picture as I was cleaning and didn't want shish to fly in.
I also did a projector retrofit which honestly wasn't any fun but wasn't very hard. If I have anything to say about it is that you make damn sure your headlights are aimed high enough when you start because changing it later will be a pain, if you saw my recent thread on it. I used hot glue and wood for the high beam sensor covered with aluminum foil to prevent it from melting. I used hot glue since it fills better and holds well. The shrouds I picked were a complete pain, had to cut away a lot which made them super lose on the projectors. Use a thick bead of black silicone on the metal part of the lens to mount them and let dry for 24hrs. Also Formula 409 melts butyl tape pretty well, since it will get everywhere... I took the time to polish and UV seal my bezels as well. Right now I am still battling their level, they were dumb low now they are uselessly high.
So far this is it. I do have more planned along with a bunch more CF additions if you didn't see the ones above. I'll also be starting a complete paint decon/polish/seal next week while it isn't too hot out. Going to use Polish Angel products I think. I'll also get some wiper plugs painted and I have a new set of taillights I'll retint and will probably sell the current set soon. Ill tint these whole, I got over the leaving the clear part clear thing
Got a little update for those who read. I havenít done a whole lot, p busy with work. I am however about to start a manual swap. I will post more pics, should start on it Monday but I need some help from you guys:
1- Can anyone get ahold of Hilton for me? I emailed him about tuning my R for the manual swap and havenít got a response. I donít want to tow her home from my friends shop because of the tune.
2- Anyone have experience with the wiring involved for a manual swap? Please shoot me a PM if so. I have a full manual engine harness if needed but afaik I just need to run two wires somwhere.
I got two M66ís because the first one had a hole in it and the company I got it from didnít tell me but they sent me another M66 for free. The gearset in the second one were chewed up, seems like the oil has never been changed so I swapped the gearsets in them. Below is a pic of a plastic brush Ace Hardware sells that works perfectly for cleaning mating surfaces.
Iíll take pics of the swap as it goes along and post em up. O I also got my wheels coated a different color, a lighter lighter than I wanted but oh well.
Hole in the first M66 I got
Also a little sticker I got for those who understand it
So we finally finished the manual swap, we started on Monday and completed it that Saturday. I didn't take a whole lot of pics because we were so busy but everything turned out great. The TF80 was in great condition, the sleeve could be pulled out by hand. The sleeve on my M66 was another story as you'll see below. We drilled a hole through it and attached a hydraulic ram to it with a chain against the subframe and it took all the force, we had to heat it up a with an inductor to get it out, melted the seal along with it.
I gotta say the toughest thing of the whole swap is the pedals and the clutch line. The pedals are just a nightmare to get to because half the bolts are behind the gauge cluster and the others can only be reached from below and you gotta disassemble the steering joint to swap the assemblies. The clutch line was just a pain to get the line ran from the reservior to the master cylinder since theres no room to fit a hand in there. Bleeding an empty system was a pain as well, I did a reverse bleed and got it done quick after doing it the schmuck way for an hour or so.
All in all I'm really happy. I had to get someone else to tune her (PM me for their info) but we also got burbles when the gas is let off below 4k and pops above 4k which is fun. We retuned the CEM and ECU and ran the wires needed so it's a true manual car, the gauge selector on the dash is gone now. Im taking it easy on the clutch right now, it's just a stock Sachs clutch with a Spec single mass flywheel.
I used a 50/50 mix of Amsoil SevereGear and Redline Lightweight Shockproof oil and I barely hear any chatter at idle with this mix, just a little gear noise with load at around 1.5k.
Also did a Snabb short shifter with a carbon fiber spaceball and TWM Abrams shiftball.
Next is a full polish of the paint and a soap machining of the interior, we messed it up bad over the week of work, look at the pics it's like something out of BTTF 3...
I'm kinda ehh about the wheel color, they were supposed to be much darker. I might sell these and go with something else, not sure.
2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr
2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr
I found this to be the best for bleeding the clutch. Fill it with brake oil, zip tie the line really tight on both ends, siphon some fluid out of reservior, and pump oil through with pedal up. Worked a lot better than a vacuum bleeder, pressure bleeder or the classic way.
2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr
Last edited by MvI_S60R; 03-04-2020 at 11:27 AM.
I'm a huge fan of those wheels and that Spaceball is awesome!
One thing I noticed immediately is how much cooler she runs now, instead of hitting 220 at idle quicker, she hits maybe 200 after a few minutes of idle instead. I didn't know how much the trans actually heats things up under the hood and engine braking really cools her down more than the automatic could, probably because of converter slippage.
I will have to make a better video of the exhaust burble/pops when I let off and post it on here soon. I repolished her so I need to let the sealant cure before taking her out again, I'd heavily recommend Optimum Glosscoat to those who polish their own cars, it makes Volvo paint pop better than others I've used
I haven't really posted here lately because I've been enjoying the heck out of her now that shes an M66, it's a totally different experience I love it. No problems with the swap at all.
A few weeks ago, I went to a big car meet at an airport and won first place in the Euro Wild category which came with a free photoshoot by ECS tuning. They also showed me around their entire facility and it was honestly jaw dropping. ECS is also interested in joining the Volvo aftermarket scene since they have their own engineering department but it will take time since they just acquired Pelican Parts and are in transition.
But their lead journalist Craig also made a nice little article about the R and it was really nice to see they cared enough to do that. I figured you guys would want to see what they thought since they all drive German cars at ECS, I had to be the first Volvo in the building haha.
The article is the same between these two links but the pictures are different.
That's really cool. Congrats, Martin!
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
2006 S60R 373awhp
2007 S80 V8
Well technically theres still some GT parts on her sooo
Last edited by MvI_S60R; 08-24-2018 at 01:28 PM.
I figure I might as well update the thread a little.
Car has been running great since the swap, no issues except for one thing. The damn swaybar is rubbing up against the subframe and the control arm, it actually ate away an alarming amount of control arm metal so I got a new bar and CA to install soon. The cause is from when we pulled the collar off the M66 during the swap, we used a hydraulic ram to pull it, we hooked up the other end of the ram to a big ass pry bar and seems to have bent/moved the sway bar so it's rubbing on it and making a nasty sound when the car shifts on the longitudinal axis.
Otherwise she's been cruisin' fine, a lot has changed in my life since so I haven't really done anything except oil. This year however I'll be back out to car meets and I'm switching out the wheels to gloss black FC04's, same size and everything. I just wanted to keep to the black/blue theme. I have a buyer for the gold ones but will report back if they pull out or something. The new FC's should be machined any day now, I don't know if Fast Co is working or not because of the virus but I hope they'll come soon. I also plan to start working on quieting the groans/sqeaks inside the car and maybe doing the headliner in black, I just gotta find some help for it.
Also, I got the great opportunity to split the cost of a new V90 with my work. I ordered it custom so I don't pay for unneeded accessories, but I did get it in Bursting Blue with 4C air suspension in the rear. It was made on 3/6/20 and is currently on a ship called the 'Undine' on the Atlantic coast, I been tracking it since it left Gothenburg. I'll post pics when it gets here, it will be a heavily used daily/work car so no mods for a long time, too happy with the R to do so anyway.
Here's some pictures of the R from '18-'20, I took it out of winter storage Monday and have been ripping it around.
Hope y'all are doing well and are staying healthy and happy!
Pic from yesterday
Untitled by Martini_277, on Flickr
Pics from a meet in late 2018
2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr
Pics from another meet in late 2018
2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr 2018 by Martini_277, on Flickr
Here is a little video a few days ago of the exhaust and tune setup currently. It's supposed to pop past 4K and burble below. Fun thing we did while retuning for the manual swap
Looks great, can't wait to see her with the new wheels!
06R Custom Electric Blue Silver
07R Magic Blue - Sold
04 Bonatti Gray Rover Disco HSE
09 Iridium Silver SLK55 AMG P30 Edition