I know I don't exactly have the best audience here as pretty much all of you are wrenching experts, but for anyone else out there who is afraid to change their own oil, here's a look at exactly how easy this process is. I apologize for the dark, potato pictures. I hope to get some better shots with a better camera down the road and replace them. I welcome any other tips/criticisms as well!
As someone who just started wrenching myself within the past few years, I encourage everyone to get down and dirty with their car every now and again. Not only will you save a few bucks and feel awesome afterwards, but you can inspect things yourself, which will help with future repairs.
An oil change on these cars is very simple with only a few tools. Here is a list of everything you need:
-Newspaper, especially if this is your first time, you'll want the oil drips to land on newspaper instead of your garage floor.
-6 quarts of your favorite oil
-A 3/8" wrench and 17mm socket (my magnetic drain plug is 17mm, the stock one may be 18mm if I remember correctly)
-Oil filter with crush ring and new filter housing O-ring
-Oil filter wrench
(iPd's starter kit comes with crush rings, O-rings, filters and filter wrench)
-Anything to drain your old oil into. You want something with more than 6 quarts capacity.
-Jack stands or ramps to elevate the car safely. DO NOT get under a car with only the emergency scissor jack under it.
-19mm socket and 1/2" torque wrench to remove/reinstall the wheels for tire rotation
Here's a closer look at the filter with the O-ring and crush washer:
Step 1: Pop the hood and remove the oil filler cap.
(Location shown below in the fill oil photo)
Step 2: Locate the jack points under the car and raise the car
If you don't have access to a jack and jack stands, you can use ramps raise the front of the car, but you obviously won't be able to rotate your tires this way.
Step 3: Place the jackstands in the appropriate places
I place the front jack stand between the two small bolts on the subframe plate, which looks like this:
The rear jack stand (if you're rotating tires) goes on this part highlighted in orange:
Note: R models do not come with a plastic splash guard, however if your car has one for some reason, you would have to remove it first, I believe they are 12mm bolts going around the splash guard
Step 4: Drain the oil
Place the newspaper and receptacle under the car and locate the drain plug. It's on the back of the block, right next to the oil cooler:
Here's a shot with a wrench on the plug from the front of the car looking towards the back:
That black circle in the shot above is your filter housing, while the block is draining, remove that (as long as your receptacle is large enough to collect the drippings from the drain plug and filter housing as shown here:
It can make quite a mess, so take care that you don't get splashed with hot oil, and have some shop/paper towels handy.
Now is a great time to rotate your tires as you want the block to drain for at least 20 minutes. Letting everything drip out is better than rushing through and plugging things right back up. While rotating your tires, you are able to check your brake pads easily and take a look at your suspension for any obviously broken parts.
Step 5: Reassemble the filter housing.
Take some paper towels and clean up the block and filter housing.
You want to remove the O-ring from the filter housing and put the new one in its place. Put some of the old oil on the new O-ring for a little lubrication.
Here's a picture of how to remove the old O-ring (I use a key or tiny screwdriver)
There are spots on the housing to easily slip something in as shown here:
Put the new filter up in the engine, it should click into place:
Screw the housing back over the filter. Make sure to tighten it past the O-Ring, you'll feel it. Do not over tighten it though.
Step 6: Replace the drain plug
First, replace the crush ring on the plug:
Put the drain plug on the hole and turn it once to the left (lefty-loosey) until the threads "click" into place, just like a water bottle cap. Then turn to the right to tighten. This helps to ensure that you do not cross thread the plug. Tighten it up with a wrench. Take care to not over tighten!
While you're down here, clean up any mess you left with oil and take a look at your angle gear and transmission for any leaks. You may see a little bit in my picture that I discovered that my oil cooler (to the right of the drain plug) is leaking a bit. Something I get to look into that I wouldn't have noticed if I didn't poke around.
Step 7: Add the new oil
While the car is still in the air add 5 quarts of oil
Start the car for a few seconds and take a look underneath to make sure nothing is leaking. If it looks good, turn the car off, lower it off the jack stands and check the oil. You should find that it's right at the MIN line. I always have to add the full quart to get to the top of the MAX line for a total of 6 quarts.
Tighten up the oil filler cap and close the hood.
Step 8: Reset your maintenance counter
Then write down your mileage/date somewhere and enjoy some satisfied mileage with clean oil that you put in there!