Oil Change DIY for Those Who Are Afraid to DIY
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    1. #1
      Member esmith813's Avatar
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      Oil Change DIY for Those Who Are Afraid to DIY

      I know I don't exactly have the best audience here as pretty much all of you are wrenching experts, but for anyone else out there who is afraid to change their own oil, here's a look at exactly how easy this process is. I apologize for the dark, potato pictures. I hope to get some better shots with a better camera down the road and replace them. I welcome any other tips/criticisms as well!

      As someone who just started wrenching myself within the past few years, I encourage everyone to get down and dirty with their car every now and again. Not only will you save a few bucks and feel awesome afterwards, but you can inspect things yourself, which will help with future repairs.

      An oil change on these cars is very simple with only a few tools. Here is a list of everything you need:



      -Newspaper, especially if this is your first time, you'll want the oil drips to land on newspaper instead of your garage floor.
      -6 quarts of your favorite oil
      -A 3/8" wrench and 17mm socket (my magnetic drain plug is 17mm, the stock one may be 18mm if I remember correctly)
      -Oil filter with crush ring and new filter housing O-ring
      -Oil filter wrench
      http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5020/...with-3-filters
      (iPd's starter kit comes with crush rings, O-rings, filters and filter wrench)
      -Anything to drain your old oil into. You want something with more than 6 quarts capacity.
      -Jack stands or ramps to elevate the car safely. DO NOT get under a car with only the emergency scissor jack under it.

      Optional (pictured):
      -19mm socket and 1/2" torque wrench to remove/reinstall the wheels for tire rotation

      Here's a closer look at the filter with the O-ring and crush washer:


      Step 1: Pop the hood and remove the oil filler cap.
      (Location shown below in the fill oil photo)

      Step 2: Locate the jack points under the car and raise the car


      If you don't have access to a jack and jack stands, you can use ramps raise the front of the car, but you obviously won't be able to rotate your tires this way.

      Step 3: Place the jackstands in the appropriate places

      I place the front jack stand between the two small bolts on the subframe plate, which looks like this:




      The rear jack stand (if you're rotating tires) goes on this part highlighted in orange:


      Note: R models do not come with a plastic splash guard, however if your car has one for some reason, you would have to remove it first, I believe they are 12mm bolts going around the splash guard

      Step 4: Drain the oil

      Place the newspaper and receptacle under the car and locate the drain plug. It's on the back of the block, right next to the oil cooler:


      Here's a shot with a wrench on the plug from the front of the car looking towards the back:


      That black circle in the shot above is your filter housing, while the block is draining, remove that (as long as your receptacle is large enough to collect the drippings from the drain plug and filter housing as shown here:



      It can make quite a mess, so take care that you don't get splashed with hot oil, and have some shop/paper towels handy.

      Now is a great time to rotate your tires as you want the block to drain for at least 20 minutes. Letting everything drip out is better than rushing through and plugging things right back up. While rotating your tires, you are able to check your brake pads easily and take a look at your suspension for any obviously broken parts.

      Step 5: Reassemble the filter housing.

      Take some paper towels and clean up the block and filter housing.

      You want to remove the O-ring from the filter housing and put the new one in its place. Put some of the old oil on the new O-ring for a little lubrication.

      Here's a picture of how to remove the old O-ring (I use a key or tiny screwdriver)


      There are spots on the housing to easily slip something in as shown here:


      Put the new filter up in the engine, it should click into place:


      Screw the housing back over the filter. Make sure to tighten it past the O-Ring, you'll feel it. Do not over tighten it though.

      Step 6: Replace the drain plug

      First, replace the crush ring on the plug:


      Put the drain plug on the hole and turn it once to the left (lefty-loosey) until the threads "click" into place, just like a water bottle cap. Then turn to the right to tighten. This helps to ensure that you do not cross thread the plug. Tighten it up with a wrench. Take care to not over tighten!

      While you're down here, clean up any mess you left with oil and take a look at your angle gear and transmission for any leaks. You may see a little bit in my picture that I discovered that my oil cooler (to the right of the drain plug) is leaking a bit. Something I get to look into that I wouldn't have noticed if I didn't poke around.

      Step 7: Add the new oil

      While the car is still in the air add 5 quarts of oil


      Start the car for a few seconds and take a look underneath to make sure nothing is leaking. If it looks good, turn the car off, lower it off the jack stands and check the oil. You should find that it's right at the MIN line. I always have to add the full quart to get to the top of the MAX line for a total of 6 quarts.

      Tighten up the oil filler cap and close the hood.

      Step 8: Reset your maintenance counter



      Then write down your mileage/date somewhere and enjoy some satisfied mileage with clean oil that you put in there!
      Last edited by esmith813; 05-14-2018 at 10:17 AM.
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    3. #2
      Member JOHN_CENA's Avatar
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      that engine detail tho


      I finally got myself an oil filter housing wrench, makes life 10 times easier than using a strap type wrench. IIRC, its 87mm x 16 flute
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    4. #3
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      Oil Change DIY for Those Who Are Afraid to DIY

      proper torque value for the drain plug is 35nm and for the oil filter cap it is 25nm.
      Great write up.
      I did my first DIY oil change two years ago and I am now doing my first DIY engine replacement. with patience and all the info to be found here and other forums I think is it is possible to do most things yourself.
      Last edited by Rmind; 01-10-2015 at 06:17 PM.

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    6. #4
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      Nice write up. I just did the same today and I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who has a small leak around the oil cooler.

    7. #5
      Quote Originally Posted by Rmind View Post
      proper torque value for the drain plug is 35nm and for the oil filter cap it is 25nm.
      Great write up.
      I did my first DIY oil change two years ago and I am now doing my first DIY engine replacement. with patience and all the info to be found here and other forums I think is it is possible to do most things yourself.
      I can't stress how important it is to take 30 seconds and torque both the drain plug and the oil filter housing with an actual torque wrench. The drain plug is bolted into an aluminum oil pan, and the oil filter housing is plastic. Both of these are just waiting for some one to come along in a hurry and ruin either one by being over torqued.

      It doesn't take much torque at all to tighten these to spec. If I guessed on either one, I would over torque them easy.
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    8. #6
      Member esmith813's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by spinall4 View Post
      I can't stress how important it is to take 30 seconds and torque both the drain plug and the oil filter housing with an actual torque wrench. The drain plug is bolted into an aluminum oil pan, and the oil filter housing is plastic. Both of these are just waiting for some one to come along in a hurry and ruin either one by being over torqued.

      It doesn't take much torque at all to tighten these to spec. If I guessed on either one, I would over torque them easy.
      +1 thanks for putting the torque values!
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    9. #7
      Junior Member David A's Avatar
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      Very nice write-up but a couple of mistakes, the skid plate is 13mm bolts and the drain plug is 17mm from the factory as well.
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    10. #8
      Member esmith813's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by David A View Post
      Very nice write-up but a couple of mistakes, the skid plate is 13mm bolts and the drain plug is 17mm from the factory as well.
      haha I admitted I was guessing, but thanks for the corrections! It's been a while since I changed my buddy's XC70's oil and had to deal with a skid plate.
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    11. #9
      Junior Member David A's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by esmith813 View Post
      haha I admitted I was guessing, but thanks for the corrections! It's been a while since I changed my buddy's XC70's oil and had to deal with a skid plate.
      Haha alls good man, just wanted to throw out the info for those that needed it!
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    12. #10
      Member EricTheRed's Avatar
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      I see your using high milage M1. You'll have to report how it goes
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    13. #11
      Member esmith813's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by EricTheRed View Post
      I see your using high milage M1. You'll have to report how it goes
      Not to turn this into an oil thread, but I've used it since buying the car at 100K. I switched to M1 0W-40 (European formula) for an oil change at 128K. More consumption and more blue smoke periodically. Switched back to M1 high mileage and it solved any problem. Once I'm not spending money on house stuff constantly, I'm planning to try Amsoil out.
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      does anybody know the torque specs in ft/lbs ft/in

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      Junior Member whizkid's Avatar
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      One suggestion for all those folks who do their own oil changes: Look into getting a Fumoto Qwik-Valve to replace your oil drain plug.

      http://www.qwikvalve.com/

      You may have to also purchase the adapter like I had to in order to clear the cast ribs in the oil sump in order to properly install the valve. I'd recommend you get the "S" version as it comes with a handy "nipple" and snap on ring that will allow you to put a short piece of vinyl tubing on to more easily direct the old oil into your container. Having the valve also makes getting oil samples for your BlackStone report very easy as well.

      http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
      Last edited by whizkid; 01-11-2015 at 05:50 PM.
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      Junior Member BumpinVolvo's Avatar
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      For how overly complicated (thermostat housing) or pricey (4C struts) these cars can be to own/work on, changing the oil on our caRs is about as easy as an oil change can be. I prefer rhino ramps (i'm on eibachs and the front bumper still clears the ramps.. i know.. not low enough lol). Can get the oil change done from gloves on to gloves off in under 20 mins.
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    18. #16
      Senior Member Warpedcow's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by spinall4 View Post
      I can't stress how important it is to take 30 seconds and torque both the drain plug and the oil filter housing with an actual torque wrench. The drain plug is bolted into an aluminum oil pan, and the oil filter housing is plastic. Both of these are just waiting for some one to come along in a hurry and ruin either one by being over torqued.

      It doesn't take much torque at all to tighten these to spec. If I guessed on either one, I would over torque them easy.
      I turn my filter housing until it stops turning. No idea what the torque is, but it's at the end of the threads. No damage to anything doing it this way on my R or my V8 (has identical filter setup to all the Volvo 5-cyl motors).
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    19. #17
      Senior Member Warpedcow's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by esmith813 View Post
      Put the new filter up in the engine, it should click into place:
       photo 20141231_141140_zps2xe4h2jp.jpg

      Screw the housing back over the filter. Make sure to tighten it past the O-Ring, you'll feel it. Do not over tighten it though.
      Great writeup. This part surprised me though as I do the opposite. I click the new filter into the housing rather than the engine... anyone else do it that way?
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      @ warpedcow: I also put my filter in the housing. Then I fill the filter housing with fresh oil half way prior to screwing it back in.

      @ whizkid: That release valve is pretty cool, except I have a magnetic drain bolt installed currently.

      @esmith813: Thanks for the great write up. Although very simple and straight forward, people never talk about oil change. This will definitely help those of us who are timid and noob to become a gear head.
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    21. #19
      Member EricTheRed's Avatar
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      I place the filter on the engine. That's how FCP recommends doing it per there video
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    22. #20
      Member djkronik57's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by EricTheRed View Post
      I place the filter on the engine. That's how FCP recommends doing it per there video
      I don't think there is a major difference, as screwing the housing in should have the filter click in on both ends.
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    23. #21
      Junior Member David A's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      Great writeup. This part surprised me though as I do the opposite. I click the new filter into the housing rather than the engine... anyone else do it that way?
      Yep, that's how I do it too.
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    24. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by esmith813 View Post
      Not to turn this into an oil thread, but I've used it since buying the car at 100K. I switched to M1 0W-40 (European formula) for an oil change at 128K. More consumption and more blue smoke periodically. Switched back to M1 high mileage and it solved any problem. Once I'm not spending money on house stuff constantly, I'm planning to try Amsoil out.
      I've been using M1 high mileage since 75k. Love this stuff!
      And yes, with a 0W oil in a turbo car, you are going to burn (literally) right through it. I'll run 10W for warmer months and 5W for cold months.
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    25. #23
      Member esmith813's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      Great writeup. This part surprised me though as I do the opposite. I click the new filter into the housing rather than the engine... anyone else do it that way?
      I've done either. It's a more satisfying click into the engine for me though.

      Phuz, that's exactly what I run now as well. I still burn thorough a quart between 5K change intervals though, so I may switch to AMSOIL.
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      Thank you for the write-up!!!


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      a gorilla has been gnawing on your drain plug.
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    28. #26
      Senior Member Warpedcow's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by hxgaser View Post
      @ warpedcow: I also put my filter in the housing. Then I fill the filter housing with fresh oil half way prior to screwing it back in.
      Lots harder to "preload" the filter housing with the optimal amount of oil if you haven't got the filter itself in it yet... unless you like cleaning up oil spills haha.
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    29. #27
      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      I turn my filter housing until it stops turning. No idea what the torque is, but it's at the end of the threads. No damage to anything doing it this way on my R or my V8 (has identical filter setup to all the Volvo 5-cyl motors).
      Which is what I would do if I wasn't torquing it to spec. What I was talking about is people who tighten the plastic filter housing with the adapter and use a 3/8" ratchet on it, and then it is very easy to go over the torque spec.

      The spec is 25 NM or 18 ft lbs, its so low you have to be paying attention to the torque wrench it comes up so quick.

      If you guys have Harbor Freight in your hood, you can pick something like this up http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...rench-807.html

      With a 20% off coupon, its is only $17.60. I wouldn't use the HF torque wrenches to reassemble a motor, but for this it's fine.
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    30. #28
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      That quick valve is a great idea, but I'm curious how well it passes contaminants. The drain hole on it looks tiny and if you have any metal shavings going on that couldn't get out, you'd never know that you had a problem.
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    31. #29
      Senior Member Warpedcow's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by spinall4 View Post
      Which is what I would do if I wasn't torquing it to spec. What I was talking about is people who tighten the plastic filter housing with the adapter and use a 3/8" ratchet on it, and then it is very easy to go over the torque spec.

      The spec is 25 NM or 18 ft lbs, its so low you have to be paying attention to the torque wrench it comes up so quick.
      I'm not using a torque wrench but I suspect it takes way more than 18 ft lbs to torque it all the way to the end of the threads.
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