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    Thread: Oil change

    1. #1
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      Oil change

      My car is due for a oil change. I've never had a car with a cartridge filter. Does it differ any then a your "normal " car? Do I need to use the tool to take off the filter or can I use the band type filter wrench? Or a different tool that is more available at the local auto store?

      Thanks!
      Matt

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    3. #2
      Member T501's Avatar
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      You need this tool or similar.

      http://www.amazon.com/CTA-2489-86-Mi...+filter+wrench

      They should have something available at the parts store but not always.

      Band type will most likely not work and may damage the cartridge.

      You will also need a new crush washer for the drain plug.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 205K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 205k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
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    4. #3
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      I've used a band type but it's hard to get in there, and I eventually caved and bought the right tool. I was always worried about cracking it, so much that I bought a spare just in case.
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake, RIP kit, & drop-in intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, Green Giants, 22 psi Hilton tune.
      2006 V70 2.5T - Ice White - Oak Arena, (almost) bone stock daily driver.
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car. No mods unless she does 'em herself.

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    6. #4
      Member Our R's Avatar
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      With the cartridge type, make sure you seat the filter in the bottom correctly before screwing it back on. There is an o ring on the canister, make sure that is replaced or not creaked.
      Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to slide in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy ****, what a ride!"

      Presently taking a ride thru the Black Forest.

    7. #5
      Junior Member db130's Avatar
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      2002 V70 T5a 194k RTI/Hilton Stage 1/336mm brakes/Bilstein B8s/H&R springs
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      2003 V70 T5m 251k Hilton Stage 2/Delrin subframe bushings/R front sway bar/R manifold/Jetex catback/Re-Volv DP/Simota CCI
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    8. #6
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      What do you guys recommend for oil? I've always had the oil changes done at the dealership, but I just moved and the closest one if an hour away. My car has 145,xxx and has never run synthetic that I know of.

      Thanks

    9. #7
      Member thaxman's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by SofisticatdIgnorance View Post
      What do you guys recommend for oil? I've always had the oil changes done at the dealership, but I just moved and the closest one if an hour away. My car has 145,xxx and has never run synthetic that I know of.

      Thanks
      I recommend full synthetic. Personally I don't care what brand it is and even though your car says it wants Castrol, I doubt it really cares what brand you use either. And from now on, don't go past 5K between changes. Your PCV will thank you and you'll appreciate not spending $400 to replace it too frequently.
      2004 V70 T5M: Platinum Green Bob Villa mod | boost gauge | poly mounts | Snabb intake | IPD sways | Koni yellow struts | KYB monotube shocks http://imgur.com/a/0MRgX
      2005 Mazda6 Sportwagon in progress...
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    10. #8
      Junior Member Roderbronx's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sweedishs60 View Post
      My car is due for a oil change. I've never had a car with a cartridge filter. Does it differ any then a your "normal " car? Do I need to use the tool to take off the filter or can I use the band type filter wrench? Or a different tool that is more available at the local auto store?

      Thanks!
      Matt
      I agree with all the above, another tip I always follow is to pre fill the cup with the filter securely fitted with oil a friend said when the starting it wit a dry filter may cause damage to the turbo during the time it takes to filter through properly, could be an old housewifes tale but I always do it. And 25Nm when tightening it should prob. Be Enough also make sure the O-ring doesn't get caught .while twisting do as much by hand as possible. Good luck


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    11. #9
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      Thank you all for your replies. Is the drain plug and filter pretty accessible? I am used to older cars and trucks where everything is out in the open.

    12. #10
      Member Our R's Avatar
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      Very easy to get at the plug and filter. Only problem might be ground clearance. I do mine on ramps.
      As for oil, Walmart and Home Depot have Mobile 1 at $25 for a 5 quart jug. Also thru Oct there is a M1 rebate of $15.
      Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to slide in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy ****, what a ride!"

      Presently taking a ride thru the Black Forest.

    13. #11
      Member T501's Avatar
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      There may be a splash shield in place under the car. It's a big piece of black plastic held in by 5 or 6 12 mm bolts. Once you remove that everything is very easily accessible.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 205K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 205k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

    14. #12
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      Cool, thanks everyone! Is there such thing as a FSM for these cars? Or is that too old school?

    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by thaxman View Post
      I recommend full synthetic. Personally I don't care what brand it is and even though your car says it wants Castrol, I doubt it really cares what brand you use either. And from now on, don't go past 5K between changes. Your PCV will thank you and you'll appreciate not spending $400 to replace it too frequently.
      What is everyone running for weight. I see a lot are running 5W-40 and 5W-30, but I also see some 0W. FYI I live in New England.

    16. #14
      Member T501's Avatar
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      I run 5W-30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 205K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 205k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

    17. #15
      Member thaxman's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Our R View Post
      Very easy to get at the plug and filter. Only problem might be ground clearance. I do mine on ramps.
      As for oil, Walmart and Home Depot have Mobile 1 at $25 for a 5 quart jug. Also thru Oct there is a M1 rebate of $15.
      Remember, you need almost 6 (SIX) quarts of engine oil, so you'll either have to buy an expensive single or have lots left over for the next oil change.
      2004 V70 T5M: Platinum Green Bob Villa mod | boost gauge | poly mounts | Snabb intake | IPD sways | Koni yellow struts | KYB monotube shocks http://imgur.com/a/0MRgX
      2005 Mazda6 Sportwagon in progress...
      2012 Ford Flex Limited

      2001 Subaru Outback H6 L.L.Bean/2000 Honda Odyssey EX recently passed (together!)

    18. #16
      Member thaxman's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by SofisticatdIgnorance View Post
      What is everyone running for weight. I see a lot are running 5W-40 and 5W-30, but I also see some 0W. FYI I live in New England.
      5W30 even out here in the hot and dry. And my PCV looked spectacular at 130K.
      2004 V70 T5M: Platinum Green Bob Villa mod | boost gauge | poly mounts | Snabb intake | IPD sways | Koni yellow struts | KYB monotube shocks http://imgur.com/a/0MRgX
      2005 Mazda6 Sportwagon in progress...
      2012 Ford Flex Limited

      2001 Subaru Outback H6 L.L.Bean/2000 Honda Odyssey EX recently passed (together!)

    19. #17
      The links to the tool have already been posted.
      I run Mobil 1 full synthetic, 10-40 and change it every 10K miles. I did the PCV at 110K miles and it was clean, but I think that's because the previous owner had an 80 mile round-trip commute and was insane (changed oil every 3K miles!).
      After oil analysis, my oil is perfectly fine and good for more than 10K, but given turbo and PCV, I think 10K is enough.

    20. #18
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      I keep a spare oil filter housing on hand in case I run into an issue with the housing.

    21. #19
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      First Oil Change

      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      You need this tool or similar.

      http://www.amazon.com/CTA-2489-86-Mi...+filter+wrench

      They should have something available at the parts store but not always.

      Band type will most likely not work and may damage the cartridge.

      You will also need a new crush washer for the drain plug.
      Stuck at home, changing oil for the first time, always had it changed at the dealer. I could not get the filter off, none of my oil filter wrench worked. I ordered a 86mm 16 flutes wrench off Ebay which took 3 weeks to deliver. The proper oil filter wrench made it easy to remove the oil filter.
      Now since it had been 3 weeks since the oil was drained, I did not remembering seeing a washer on the oil drain plug. Of course, none of the oil drain plug washers I have at home fits the current plug. As best as I can tell, the dealer did not use a washer on the last oil change. Is it possible that the washer is stuck on the hole or is one not necessary? I already installed the drain plug and it felt tight but I have not filled it with any oil.
      Last edited by molans60; 05-01-2020 at 02:03 PM.

    22. #20
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      volvo # 977751. Copper or Aluminum washer will work. Even a plastic/vinyl type would suffice, but Aluminum is best IMO. They will sometimes stick to the pan and a little pick you can get it off. And yes a washer is required. Anything worth doing, is worth doing right the first time.
      Last edited by ImportService; 05-01-2020 at 05:14 PM.

    23. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by ImportService View Post
      volvo # 977751. Copper or Aluminum washer will work. Even a plastic/vinyl type would suffice, but Aluminum is best IMO. They will sometimes stick to the pan and a little pick you can get it off. And yes a washer is required. Anything worth doing, is worth doing right the first time.
      You are right, aluminum washer was stuck in the drain hole. Thanks.

    24. #22
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      I am a big fan of using a Fumoto valve instead of a drain plug. Easy no mess draining and no worry about those pan threads.Be careful where you put the O ring seal on the filter housing! It goes into the 2nd groove not the bottom one. Look closely at it and you will see a relief on the correct groove.

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