SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

T8 wiring and required plug type for charging at home - a guide

141K views 306 replies 78 participants last post by  Gary-16-Xc90 
#1 · (Edited)
Several weeks ago we had the electricity ran in the garage in anticipation to getting the T8. We picked up our T8 one week ago, and realized that we had done a little overkill and the wrong type of plug. I tried to find out what type of plug the T8 charging cord takes, but could not find it written down - maybe I just overlooked it somewhere.

According to the manual, the T8 charges at 15 Amps. We had a 50Amp circuit and plug installed with a NIMA 14-50 type plug, which was overkill.

On Friday we changed out everything to meet the needs of the T8. Here is what you need:

Plug Type: Legrand 5851 http://www.legrand.us/passandseymour/receptacles/fed-spec-grade/heavy-duty-single/5851.aspx
Circuit breaker: 20 Amps

Of course you can remove the 120-240 adapter on the plug, and charge with 120, but it takes over 2 times as long.

Hope this helps others getting ready for the T8.
 
#168 ·
Thanks to this thread, I now understand what my options are and what I can do to prepare for my 2018 Xc60's arrival. I do have 30 amp service to an unused dryer plug in my garage. The electrician will need to extend the power to the front of the garage to be useful for charging. We're mulling over increasing service to 40A based on the probability of our getting my wife a full EV in a year or two. Will likely go with the Juicebox Pro 40 since it seems the most future proof. Our local utility provides a $500 rebate for the installation of a hardwired EV charger.
 
#169 · (Edited)
Had an electrician friend do the install for me, and the whole thing cost $60 in hardware and a nice bottle of whiskey for his troubles, which took 2 hours at leisurely pace and was done to the highest electrical code standards. Prior to that I got quoted $800-$1,000 for exact same job! I could see a big chunk of that being high insurance premiums for electricians though...

Since the most expensive component, 110V/220V cable which retails for $600, already comes with T8, there isn't really much that's needed in terms of hardware. Here's my Lowe's shopping list, which includes every nut and bolt needed:

1. Armorlite 25-ft 12-3 Solid Aluminum MC Cable $27
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Armorlite-25-ft-12-3-Solid-Aluminum-MC-Cable/3637926

2. 4-Circuit 2-Space 60-Amp Main Lug Load Center $20
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-4-Circuit-2-Space-60-Amp-Main-Lug-Load-Center/3129471

3. Homeline 20-Amp 2-Pole Double-Pole Circuit Breaker $7
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Square-D-Homeline-20-Amp-2-Pole-Double-Pole-Circuit-Breaker/1013949

4. 20-Amp 250-Volt White Indoor Round Wall Outlet $4
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-20...-Wall-Air-Conditioner-Power-Outlet/1000050873

5. 1-Gang Rectangle Metal Electrical Box Cover $.9
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Raco-1-Gan...dard-Handy-Celing-Wall-Electrical-Box/1098497

6. Raco 1-Gang Gray Metal Interior New Work/Old Work Standard Handy Celing/Wall Electrical Box $.9
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Raco-1-Gan...dard-Handy-Celing-Wall-Electrical-Box/1098497

Admittedly, I only needed to run 20 feet of wire from main panel to garage, so a longer run would add $10 to $50 for longer cable (item 1 - check Lowe's pricing for identical cable of different lengths). Also this was an indoor install, so an outdoor option would add $10 for outdoor-rated sub-panel (item 2).
Add $3-$5 for wire clamps and connectors, if running cable outside walls.

The same shopping list actually applies for any other EV charger install, if you are getting plug-in instead of wired-in charger (which I think you should). For EVs that are capable of charging at more than T8's 3.3kWh you will need to get higher amperage breaker, outlet and sub-panel, which actually cost about the same for higher amperage rated components. The only component that will get more expensive for higher charging rates is the wire, which will need to be of lower gauge (i.e. thicker) and could add $20-$150 to the cost, depending again on length of the run from main electrical panel to the charger.
So even 100 amp setup for Tesla or just future proofing should be anywhere from $100 to $250 (depending on panel-to-charger distance) in material costs alone.
 
#170 ·
To clarify, a wired-in charger install would actually cost a few dollars less, since you will not need to purchase last three items on my list, but wire the unit directly into wiring running from sub-panel. Reasons not to get wired-in unit, in my opinion, are:

1. T8's already come with a perfectly good cable that requires NEMA 6-20 outlet to plug-in to.
2. A wired-in unit is a hassle to remove for most people, in case you are moving or the unit begins to malfunction.
3. Having NEMA 6-20 receptacle in your garage could be useful for other purposes, such as plugging tools that require that type of voltage/amperage (i.e., welding equipment)
 
#173 · (Edited)
Not an electrician here, but US Electrical Code (NEC Art. 100) specifies that most commonly available circuit breakers are rated to carry no more than 80% of their nominal rating continuously (3 hours or more). Both the Aerovironment cord and T8 on-board charger are capable of charging at up to 16 amps, which is exactly 80% of 20 amps. Likewise, most power-hungry household appliances do not exceed 12 amp rating, since household breakers/receptacles are rated at 15 amps.

Same holds true for 6.6kWh EVs, which charge at 32 amps but require 40 amp rated hardware.
 
#174 · (Edited)
Also, 12-3 wire is bare minimum for 240v - limited to 16A draw with 20A breaker. I read where 10 ga. is the minimum recommended for 240v which is probably for 30A service. Just keep in mind that re-wiring + more money for wire, breaker, receptacle and electrician will be required for higher amperage in the future. BTW, Most welders require 30A.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#175 ·
For future-proofing - sure, you can go nuts and get 10 ga or even thicker cable, which is just marginally more expensive relative to electrician labor costs. 12 ga is fully adequate for T8 charging needs though, and it draws for 2.5 hours max anyway.

I've also seen a guy on another EV thread report of installing several types of 240V NEMA receptacles just for the hell of it, because each one adds only $5-$10 to the cost. As long as you are not dumb enough to use them all at the same time, I actually find that very resourceful and even increasing property value, as car charging becomes more widespread.

Also using armored cable is an overkill for indoors install anyway, and non-metallic jacket wiring would be the standard cheaper option. Household dryers, air conditioners and electric ovens typically draw 40A and are installed on 50A circuit on non-metallic wiring.
 
#176 ·
You’re right that 12-3 is good enough for 16a and the current XC90 T8. 10 gauge is hardly going nuts, though. Dialogue to enable informed decisions is why most of us are here on SS.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#178 ·
208V is the correct number technically, as provided in 110V power system. 240V is advertised top limit that never exists in this country, just like the 110 - 240V label on your phone charger.

Sent from my SD4930UR using Tapatalk
 
#185 ·
I just received my Juice box pro 40A. Do I need to do anything special before I connect this to my Volvo? My electric panel has 20A circuit breakers going to the outlet I currently use with the Charging Cable that came with my Volvo. What limits the current to the Volvo? Several contributors to this thread have the Juice box pro and no one has reported problems. I did buy this device partly because I expect that my wife's next car will be all electric. Something like a Chevy Bolt or the new Leaf.

The electrician is coming tomorrow to look at installing the Juice Box Pro.
 
#186 ·
If you are planning to get the most out of your JuiceBox Pro 40, you will want to determine if you have WiFi access. See https://emotorwerks.zendesk.com/hc/...to-a-WiFi-network-to-use-my-JuiceBox-charger- . You can download the JuiceNet app to your phone and have the networking instructions at the ready.

Normally, a JuiceBox Pro 40 would use a 240v 40A service with a 50A breaker either hardwired or connected to a NEMA 14-50R (receptacle). I am not clear if you are trying to convert your existing 240V 16A service (20A breaker) or if you are planning to run a new 40A service. Good news is that your electrician can determine your options and guide your decision. Good luck.
 
#187 ·
Thanks for the quick response. My concern is about whether this charger will work properly with my Volvo. Is there any danger to the Volvo with having the higher current capability. This charger will be hard wired since that's what my city will cover.

And, as to WiFi, that's covered. I have really good WiFi where the charger will be located.
 
#192 ·
Y’all are killing me. I’ve nearly sold my wife on an Inscription T8 to add to the Volvo fleet as the kids begin to drive and inherit the older ones as theirs. With 6 pages on this thread to determine how to fuel a vehicle, where I was 1-2 days away from a 3rd Volvo in the garage I really am reconsidering the beauty of that 6.2L GMC / Cadillac. Or the 6 cyclinder Ford Raptor.

I’ve been inactive in SS for quite some time but now seeking sage, simple, succinct advice. Please forgive my laziness to not review the many previous threads that likely commiserate / argue the options. What the heck does it take to bring one of these home? We love our Volvos, but damn this is ridiculously hard to own.
 
#193 ·
Unless you really need the car to fully charge in 3 hours, you can just plug it into a regular outlet and charge overnight. That's the short and sweet answer. You don't have to do anything more than that.

If you do decide to get a 240V outlet/EVSE, the benefits are much quicker charging and less wasted energy lost between the wall and the battery. But it's certainly not a requirement.
 
#195 ·
#198 ·
Charging Options

I also happen to have setup a 50 amp circuit and have a Leviton 40 amp charging wall unit. I purchased it way back when I had a Toyota Rav4EV that had a 10kw charging system. We currently have a Chevy Bolt that will charge at 32 amps so my setup works well. I was connecting to the Volvo XC90 T8 which is kind of a pain as the filler is on the driver side which makes it opposite the wall where the charger is located. I did this for a couple of nights till I realized that the Volvo has a relatively small battery. So I pulled out the included charger and just plugged it into a garage 20 amp circuit. It charges up over night without any problems. If I need something faster I can use the Leviton. The only problem I have experienced thus far is that the charger connector 1772 tends to lock once charging starts. It seems to require that you start the car and have a full charge before letting me pull it out. Yesterday I had to hold the start button on for 7 seconds to start the car and allow me to pull the connector out. What am I doing wrong.
Manny
 
#200 ·
In addition, if you had unlocked your car with the key FOB or the door's proximity sensor and do not remove the cable from the charging port within about 2 minutes, the charging port will re-lock on again. When this occurs, it is best to use the key FOB to unlock the charging port even though the car's doors are still unlocked.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#202 ·
Installed a 30a chargepoint charger yesterday. Anyone else using this with the T8? Doesn't seem to be detecting when charged.

Also has anyone remove the locking part on their home charger so you don't have to unlock the car? Curious if it will mess anything up on the car end By taking the charger out and the port on the car is in the locked position still.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#203 ·
Also has anyone remove the locking part on their home charger so you don't have to unlock the car? Curious if it will mess anything up on the car end By taking the charger out and the port on the car is in the locked position still.
That's a terrible idea. The locking mechanism is a motorized pin inside the car's charging port. You want to disassemble your charging port and remove it? :facepalm:
 
#208 ·
Well, my two cents (and they're not worth much, since my wife wouldn't spring for the T8...so we've got an '18 T6 Inscription) are that unless you're really exhausting the SOC on a regular basis (which I'm sure some are), then anything above a regular 110 outlet just isn't worth it. I have a Chevy Volt as my other car, and I too thought that I'd end up getting a level two charger, but to be honest, it's just never been an issue. I typically get anywhere from 48 to 55 miles of electric range on the Volt and that handles almost any type of around town needs for me (even in the DFW area) almost all of the time. Sure, occassionally, I'll take a trip to visit some family in Mansfield and end up using dino juice for a bit, but that's not very often. Also, we already had a 110 outlet in our garage that was on a dedicated circuit, so I've been running it at 12 Amps without issue (I have to reset it every three months though because it will fall back to 8 Amp charging otherwise). I just take the kids to their practices, schools, go shopping and just about everything else, and when we get back, I park it and plug it in with the supplied level one charger. It's ready to do it all again by the time I wake up the next day! Also, I saw some comment up there about lifespan of LION batteries and such. Now, once again, I don't claim to know much of anything about the battery management system used in the Volvo, but if they're anything like the other manufacturers, then you can rest assured that what you think is 100% SOC...is very likely anything but. Most modern battery management systems do everything in their power to make certain that the SOC stays in that 20-80% range. They're on the hook for the warranties on these things and they want to encourage adoption. A bunch of bad press about deteriorating batteries or having a bunch die a premature death due to controllable charging management would do them no favors. Now, one thing that I have seen manufacturers struggle with is temperature control on those things. For example, I know that the Nissan was notorious for having very poor temp management in the Leaf at one time and it wasn't uncommon to see Leafs here in the chilly state of Texas that were only a year or two old that had already lost like 20-30% of their top charge capacity. Thankfully, the Volt has an excellent (liquid cooled) temp management system and I frankly haven't noticed any reduction in overall range in the two plus years that I've been driving mine.
 
#209 ·
I thought the same, but here are my reasons I went for a level 2.

-We found when we did our daily routine of dropping off the kids, the 19 miles get very close to used up. Having uses the 120v charger, we would only get a few more miles added by the time we had to pick them up. Having the quick charging, brings it all the way back now no problem, so the daily commute is purely electric.

-Our 120v circuit, was overloaded and having the additional load on it wouldnt be able to be sustained for much longer. We actually burnt up one outlet ant tripped the breaker. 20A circuit also.

-My friend had been charging on 120v and switched to 240v, it actually saved him more $ as the 120v pulls more current than the 240v does. But if you consider the cost of the charger, this point is moot as it will take years to recover that difference.

So mainly its a convenience of having faster charging, which for the the T8 i say is worth it since the reserve is so small to begin with.
 
#212 ·
On another note. My charging cable is hopelessly kinked. Any ideas as to how to keep the cable smoothed out.
 
#213 ·
Only thing i cna think, is leave out outside in the hot sun for a bit, then un coil it and pull on it as much as you can to straighten.

Also a side note: a 32A charger is not needed, only a 16A since the XC90 only supports 16A charging. 32A is good for future investment.
 
#214 ·
I tried using the 110 volt outlet, and of course it works but just takes too long. I found that if I drive somewhere in the morning that it takes too long to recharge so I can again drive somewhere else that same day. So I decided to tap into my 50 amp circuit where I have the Leviton 40 amp charger plugged in. So I spliced into that the plug and then added a plug for the 240 volt Volvo charger. I have the Bolt on a timer and it will not start charging until around midnight. So I can charge the Volvo directly. At 15 to 16 amp 240 volts it charges up in about 3 hours. As long as I get it charged before midnight then I am not pulling 32 plus 16 equal to 48 volts. I probably would blow the circuit if that did happen. Probably will not pass an inspection, but not an issue at this time. I may disconnect that lock from the Volvo charger J1772 so that it does not require my locking and then unlocking the car. My other chargers do not lock when used.
 
#215 ·
Definitely playing with fire there :p

You could use the Volvo On Call app and save your house as a charging point, and then schedule charging in there.. That way, you can tell it to stop charging before the Bolt kicks in, in case you haven't already done that. Or, you could add a timer/home automation device to control when power is applied to each side... There are a few ways to play.

Yes, you'll risk the chance the circuit can trip, assuming full draw of both vehicles at the same time. I just wired up a 208V circuit at my work so I could be charged up quickly, and it saves so much time over just being on 120V.
 
#217 ·
Am about to take a road trip in early Sept. I have discovered an adapter for a Nema 15-50r to a Nema 6-20p that looks like it would provide power to recharge the volvo using the turbocord. My son's home has a Nema 14-50 receptacle that he used with his trailer. Would there be any downside to using the adapter with the turbocord to charge the volvo while visiting him?
 
  • Like
Reactions: AschMan
#219 ·
My son's home has a Nema 14-50 receptacle that he used with his trailer. Would there be any downside to using the adapter with the turbocord to charge the volvo while visiting him?
I'm not familiar with the Nema 14-50 plug, but I went to a cabin this summer and used some adapters I had from my 30-amp RV to charge up the T8.

I know Volvo doesn't recommend adapters or extension cords, but I figured that since they were outdoor-rated and used very thick RV wiring I would have no problems. And I had no problems at all.

I also brought a 25ft 30-amp RV extension cord but I didn't need to use it.
 

Attachments

#218 · (Edited)
Although I have no direct experience with these products, here is a link to a company that specializes on various adapters. After reading some of the information and reviews, it is represented that certain NEMA 6-20 adapters can be used with the AeroVironment Dual Cord. One review, by a new Volvo XC90 T8 owner, indicates that the Tesla to J1772 adapter works fine, too. Just FYI.

https://www.evseadapters.com/collections/all

Disclaimers: Although the AeroVironment Dual Cord may be used outdoors, an adapter connection is not water-proof so precautions may be warranted (e.g., elevated above ground, covered). As many already know, Volvo does not recommend the use of adapters or extension cords.
 
#220 ·
I'm now back from my trip. I did purchase a short adapter cord from Amazon for $59. It work well with the AeroVironment Dual Cord. The cable part of the connector is just over a foot and it is truly heavy duty. The mfg states it is intended for power tools, no mention of EVs. I'd normally forego the expense, but I often visit family and I really don't like using the ICE in local driving.
 
#223 ·
Looking for some feedback please. I'm the relatively new (purchased in August) owner of a T8 S90 that I'm looking to install a level 2 charger for. To date I've been using the TurboCord on a 110 circuit and charging overnight with the car parked directly behind my wife's in the image below which is not ideal since I end up blocking her in. My scenario is a little bit unique in that I'm looking for a solution that will permit me to park and charge outside in the driveway since the car won't be garage parked at all times. Here is the layout:



The image is not to scale, but reflects the pertinent details close enough. In hindsight we bought the home with a true two car garage meaning either two cars and nothing else or one car and storage for "stuff" of which the latter prevailed. To that effect, that is why outdoor charging remains a requirement. Option RED is where I prefer to park for both of us to comfortably navigate the driveway, but is nearly 30 feet from the garage wall. Unfortunately level 2 chargers pretty much top out at a 25 foot cord which creates an obstacle. Option BLUE is convenient to installing the charger with a standard cord length, but literally our vehicles are line on line and parking both vehicles requires exact precision, not necessarily my wife's strength. Option RED for that reason is preferred. Any recommendations or do's/dont's with outdoor charging (southwest Virginia climate)?

My plan is to have an electrician install 50A service with a NEMA 14-50 outlet as relative future proofing and an option when my parents visit with charging their RV. In either option, RED or BLUE, assuming I'm not violating any electrical code, I plan to have the outlet installed on the interior wall of the garage adjacent to the garage door. With that as my service starting point I'm looking for feedback, experience with the different level 2 chargers out there. If I went option BLUE which honestly is not preferred at the moment, cord length is not an issue in the 20 to 25 foot range. If I go the preferred option RED, I'm favoring the JuiceBox Pro 40 which I believe is highly rated and I can purchase through JuiceBox an extension cable to make up the length required over the standard cord length. Anyone counter that solution or prefer other chargers over the JuiceBox?

Thanks.
 
#226 ·
I'm looking to install a level 2 charger ... that will permit me to park and charge outside in the driveway since the car won't be garage parked at all times. ... I plan to have the outlet installed on the interior wall of the garage adjacent to the garage door. ... Anyone counter that solution or prefer other chargers over the JuiceBox?
Another idea for your Red option is to install a 50-amp Service (NEMA 14-50 receptacle recommended) to that area and set it up similar to a RV connection. ... There are many possibilities.
I'm going to second Gary's external outlet recommendation.

That 20ft TurboCord that came with your T8 is good for both 110V (Level1) and 220V/240V (Level2) outlets and costs $500(!) but was of course free from Volvo.

Technology Electronic device Label Metal
Wall socket Electrical supply


If an exterior Level2 outlet (NEMA 6-20) is installed (interior one costs $6 @ HomeDepot) near the red car - either by an electrician or you can do it all yourself if you're comfortable
  • putting the proper breaker in the main panel
  • wiring to the main panel
  • digging a trench and doing exterior wiring
  • looking up local/state code requirements
  • etc
- there is no need to spend $500+ on another Level 2 charger box like the JuiceBox. You will need to encase the TurboCord somehow to ensure it's weatherproof at the plug point.

The plus of doing this is saving $500+ on a "landlocked" Level2 charger box and putting that free ($500 value) TurboCord from Volvo to good use! (I put in an interior NEMA 6-20 outlet and didn't spend more money on another Level2 charger box - example setup photo from TurboCord shown below.)

Cable Wire Technology Electronic device Electronics accessory


Let us know how you end up and good luck!
 
Top