V8 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

[ggleavitt]

No update, been a little busy with replacing the angle gear and have this up next but won't get to it (and serp belt replacement) for another month or so.

It's a list straight out of VIDA and includes a few extras (like all new hardware, certainly overkill). So unless someone chimes in with something different, I'm guessing this is pretty close to the mark.

For sure I'll write back, once I get around to doing it, with an update to the parts that I used.

[peterz123]

Put together a parts list for what I'm going to be doing, I always order some if not all new screws as it's cheap enough to put new in and insurance in case I screw something up (drop or get lost). And got oil cap o-ring plus oil cap base sealing ring just to have it out of the way.

QTY PN Item
1- 925063- O-ring, Oil Cap
5- 953039- Stud
9- 985183- Screw 6x30
10- 985919- Nut
1- 988119- O-ring, PS Pump
1- 999274- Screw 6x20
8- 999275- Screw 8x25
2- 999277- Screw 8x110
1- 30720095- Valve Cover Gasket Rear
1- 30720096- Valve Cover Gasket Front
4- 30720097- VVT Solenoid O-ring
1- 30720098- PCV Hose
1- 30720100- PCV Valve
1- 30720101- PCV Hose
1- 30720327- Inlet Manifold Upper Gasket Right
1- 30720328- Inlet Manifold Upper Gasket Left
2- 30720335- Inlet Manifold Gasket
8- 30731386- Injector O-ring Kit
1- 31272732- Fuel Pressure Sensor

I'll be doing mine with new serp belt plus idlers plus tensioner plus new hardware. PS pump replaced by previous owner so not doing that. New plugs as well while I'm there (could never get full confirmation this was done, bought at 92k miles, will do them myself just to be sure).

Price out the door from LisleParts was under $500 before shipping. That's as of 3/20/16.

If someone wanted to add or edit or remove from this list, would be no problem to me.

I'll see what's left over once I'm done (or what I missed).

The one thing I might add are a few of what volvo calls " sealing plugs" PN 30741326 they are the rubber grommets which fit into the valve cover and seal between the valve cover, the stud and the nut, mine were in good shape but if these are cracked heat damaged or you drop or other wise lose one, it might be handy to have a few extra on hand. Most stay in the the valve cover when they're removed but with all the parts off for this job it's easy for one to come out and when you go to re-install the cover if yours are at all in bad shape and falling out I'd suggest biting the bullet and putting in new ones, you're already doing it right with all the other parts and believe me the worst feeling in the world is throwing this amount of work into a project then seeing the oil leaking from a bad grommet after it's all back together ...

[NorthwestMoose]

Hmm...checked through this list and a couple pop out as maybe needing further digging:

30720097 shows on tasca as the oil filler neck o ring:
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/30720097

But shows on volvopartswebstore as what (I suppose) could be a VVT actuator o-ring:
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/pr...hTerm=30720097


30731386 shows on tasca as high pressure ac line o-rings:
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/30731386

But shows on volvo parts webstore as injector o-ring. Not sure why they're calling it a "kit" though, looks like just one o-ring per PN?
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/sh...=0&modelYear=0

[ggleavitt]

peterz123, excellent suggestion on the sealing plugs, see them in VIDA. I'll order 14 and replace them outright, just to keep things complete.
Added them to the "list" in the earlier post, thanks VERY much for bringing this up. Can certainly not get 14 of them but I'm adding per VIDA as that's what is replaced if one were to do them all (which I will be doing).

For the other parts, good to have a copy of VIDA around as sometimes there are indeed single part numbers being used in multiple applications. In the case of PN 30720097, mine are in plastic marked "Made in Japan", the part name is likely a misprint at the noted site unless Volvo is now matching newer Yamaha parts to their older Volvo engines. Possible. If you go to http://volvopartslisle.com/part/OEM-...7/Sealing-Ring, you'll see the part, correct name and application, same as on the list.

And yes, qty 8 of the PN 30731386 "kit" is required, each one is a set of 2 O-rings (per injector). They are also marked "Made in Japan". And again, http://volvopartslisle.com/part/OEM-...386/O-Ring-Kit notes the part, correct name and application.

All the sites at one point or another have irregularities. I've personally found over time that using VIDA as the original source, then working directly with the OE reseller, gives the best results.

I asked the same question on the injector o-ring when I placed the order. And the same with the PN 30720335 inlet gasket, VIDA diagram makes it look like a pair are included, but qty 2 are called out (and 2 are required).

[ggleavitt]

About 1/2 way into doing mine. Fuel rail was super hard to get out, noticed a couple of the injector pintle caps were dislodged when I inspected after removal. As I tried to put them back to seated, one broke at the lip. And in taking injectors out to replace O-rings, another injector had a break at the plastic retaining piece at the top (top O-ring slips over this). If doing injector O-rings, be super careful to gently rock the injector out of the rail and take your time. Not being gentle and pulling a little too hard directly out, at least 3 top O-rings remained in the rail (and in one, the broken plastic retaining piece). Taking my injectors to a local shop tomorrow morning to see about a rebuild and test, hoping they'll be able to help as direct OE replacement is approx. $200 each and I cannot find any other substitutes (part marked DENSO 7CUDP if anyone wants to take a poke at this).

**Note: Local injector shop does NOT have parts to repair. This Denso injector is relatively rare in the space with PNs 55559397 (Denso for Saab), 4G2216 (Airtex/Wells) and FJ1073 (Standard Motor Products). If I were doing this again, I would have sourced a Chinese parts kit for $25 at the big auction site- search for "Denso FJ1073 Volvo S80 XC90 4.4L Fuel Injector Repair Service Kit Filter" in advance. For now, I have a reman set of 8 OE injectors arriving tomorrow from https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/, simply do not have time to source the kit from overseas.**

As far as coil ground wires, it's possible to get them off without cutting by using a thin 10mm bike wrench below the top nut (the lower hex surface, part of the stud) and hold while you untighten, as noted in peterz123's post. Even with this though, rear clearances are super tight and I ended up having to cut the rear passenger side wires and re-terminate as I could not get the thin wrench to hold.

VC gaskets went back on with not too much trouble, used some Super Lube synthetic grease on the gasket surfaces to get them to stay put on the cover (could as easily have used petroleum jelly). The post by peterz123 suggests using a mirror on the back side just to make sure you're seated, absolutely agree with this. Rear space is limited and the rear coil harness is kinda in the way so you have to lift to cover and position it over the VVT solenoids then push down, and there's an opportunity for things to shift. I had to position the rear twice, first time part of the gasket got dislodged by the front right side.

And do whatever you can to fully drain the fuel as much as possible. You'll have a ton of residual fuel coming from all sorts of connections if you don't, not to mention what's in the rail itself if you remove the injectors. In retrospect, I should have pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked the car a few times. Maybe that might have cut down on the many little spills.

As noted earlier, have parts to do plugs, PCV, FPS, and new belt/tensioner while I'm in. If all goes well and I get a positive response on the injector rebuild, should have everything back together tomorrow.

For sure should be a 2 day job just to take your time.

I've taken a few photos, may be able to post them at some point.

[ggleavitt]

Been thinking about this job while I wait for my reman injectors to arrive (today). Entirely reasonable that the problems with shifted pintle caps and broken retaining rings were of my own creation.

So.... What's the consensus on the best way to remove the fuel rail and injectors? Pull the whole thing up as one (what I did) or release clips, pull rail, then pull injectors?

Does me no good today (and I'm not likely to do this job again for another 7-8 years) but I'm feeling like this was the only part of the job that was particularly troublesome and would like to make sure others benefit from my apparent mistake(s).

[peterz123]

when I pull a fuel rail- volvo V8 or a BMW unless there are access issues preventing you from pulling it straight out with even, steady force, or wiggle it a bit with some upward force and see if it dislodges then a little bit more takes patience and sometimes luck - IMO I'd leave it as a unit, the injectors and o rings should come right out in tact - injector plastics do get brittle with heat and i've pulled out many broken injectors, actually the bottom plastic pintle has sometime broken off and released shards into the intake and combustion chamber- sounds bad since they cant be retrieved not really a big deal if they are small as the heat from the combustion cycle will most likely burn them up and spit them out the exhaust valves

[ggleavitt]

Thanks, VIDA suggests it comes out as one unit as well: "Lift the fuel rail assembly with injector straight up and bend it aside."

I see another comment in VIDA that I might have best followed from the beginning: "Spray with universal oil or the like around the injection valve connections on the cylinder head". Might have helped to release the assembly a little easier?

Speaking of VIDA, I personally would not want to tackle this job without some level of documentation.

[ggleavitt]

Injectors arrived this morning, reman Volvo PN 8653608 just as advertised. Put them in with a little synthetic grease and everything popped in place after getting the cables right. Got buttoned up (few more remove/replace of a few things to accommodate cable runs and hose connectors) and car is running great with all (OE blue box) new top end gaskets and hardware plus plugs, PCV/hoses, FPS, and injectors with O-rings. *I used all the parts on my list post for the record.*

Really poor with annotating photos but here’s a link for picture reference:
https://goo.gl/photos/tcLSKkYEp6KqkbaR9 Note: Can see a couple of photos where the oil was coming out of the area between block and cover, rear passenger side.

Glad I took lots of photos, had to go back at least 4 times to make adjustments in cable harness runs and routing of connectors.

I paid a $10 return charge for the injector cores when the reman injectors arrived, will take a pass on this cost and instead pay $25 for the rebuild kit, hand it over to my local guy for rework plus service on my old injectors, and eventually sell them. Figure I ought to get close to break-even $$-wise once all is said and done. The parts worked great when in the car, no issues except for the cracked plastics.

Looking back, pulling the injectors and expecting them to be in great condition after 100k was a “miss”, and not fully draining the fuel rail caused way more trouble than it was worth when pulling the injectors for new o-rings. I were to ever do this job again, I would know exactly who to call for a low cost injector replacement or service (with parts from them or parts from you) before starting it.

[peterz123]

nothing like hearing the engine purr after a long job, good reference for the injectors, thankfully there aren't many jobs on this engine aside from the VC gaskets that need them pulled

[PAX5]

Nice job documenting.

And thanks for sharing.

You obviously also did the serpentine belt, tensioner and rollers but didn't mention it ... How did that go?

I saved my "old set" from my 2011 XC90 I did last year.

A forum member by the name of OrleeC is now offering to rebuild them with SKF bearings. So I had my set re-build, at a fraction of the cost of new ones, for future use:

[ggleavitt]

Serp belt and hardware (tensioner, rollers, bolts) was super easy, got rid of my crappy old HF tool and bought an Alltrade 648629 Kit 52 Serpentine Belt Tool Set a few months back in anticipation of doing belts on both my cars.

Used the long handle, never needed the extension, set comes with low profile sockets.

Was so simple to do with everything opened up, completely forgot to mention it.

[PAX5]

Serp belt and hardware (tensioner, rollers, bolts) was super easy, got rid of my crappy old HF tool and bought an Alltrade 648629 Kit 52 Serpentine Belt Tool Set a few months back in anticipation of doing belts on both my cars.

Used the long handle, never needed the extension, set comes with low profile sockets.

Was so simple to do with everything opened up, completely forgot to mention it.

Nice!

Alltrade 648629 Kit 52 Serpentine Belt Tool

[R-Pow3R3d]

Serp belt and hardware (tensioner, rollers, bolts) was super easy, got rid of my crappy old HF tool and bought an Alltrade 648629 Kit 52 Serpentine Belt Tool Set a few months back in anticipation of doing belts on both my cars.

Used the long handle, never needed the extension, set comes with low profile sockets.

Was so simple to do with everything opened up, completely forgot to mention it.

How did you handle the hex bolt in the tensioner?

[ggleavitt]

Cut down 10mm just like the write-up(s), snugged down first then cranked on it. I had most of the hoses out of the way as I was putting things back together, makes for lots of room.

[R-Pow3R3d]

Cut down 10mm just like the write-up(s), snugged down first then cranked on it. I had most of the hoses out of the way as I was putting things back together, makes for lots of room.

Did you try yours without cutting it down? I was JUST able to get it to work that way which helped a lot since I wasn't sure how I was going to cut it down.

[ggleavitt]

I did not. I received my original info from PAX5 last year and cut mine down about 3/8" with a Dremel cutting blade. Bought cheap and I'll keep it around for 8-9 years from now.

I measure around 1.5 inches from tightened fastener face to turning clearance, so figure a tiny bit more once you get it in the recess to turn.

Thought your post mentioned something about a ready-fit PN from one of the big box DIY stores?

By the time I did mine, as part of the VC gaskets, most hoses were already out of the way so I had plenty of room. So no, I did not think to try another tool besides the modified one right in front of me.

To be blunt, by the time I got done jacking with the replacement injectors, all I wanted to do was put everything back properly and finish the job.

[R-Pow3R3d]

To be blunt, by the time I got done jacking with the replacement injectors, all I wanted to do was put everything back properly and finish the job.

I believe that! I got tired just reading about the work you did, never mind actually doing it. LOL

I'm glad to know you went the Dremel route and it was successful. I was talking to PAX about it on the phone and that was exactly what I had in mind to do if the tool had not fit. I actually also bought the correct sized hex socket and planned to cut the length off of that, if I could. Thankfully the long reach Allen wrench worked, albeit only just.

[OrleeC]

Nice job documenting.

And thanks for sharing.

You obviously also did the serpentine belt, tensioner and rollers but didn't mention it ... How did that go?

I saved my "old set" from my 2011 XC90 I did last year.

A forum member by the name of OrleeC is now offering to rebuild them with SKF bearings. So I had my set re-build, at a fraction of the cost of new ones, for future use:

Thanks for the prop up PAX5.
I do have just one set - have not decided on cost yet but sure to save $200+ for functionally same things for those that will take interest.

[ggleavitt]

As an end note, got the service kit delivered (10pc kit of plastics, O-rings and filters) and sent all 8 injectors to my local service shop for refit. They look more or less new, will be keeping them around for awhile in the event someone finds themselves in a bind. Eventually I'll sell them but if you don't see it noted in this post and you're stuck with broken injectors after pulling them, contact me via PM. Will sell as a set of 8 only but it'll be my recovered costs plus postage (approx. $62 each).

[Goose]

Slowly working my way through valve cover gaskets and alternator replacement. There was quite a bit of oil in the intake manifold. I'm replacing the PCV components, is there anything else I should be doing to address this? And is this a normal looking injector for 100k? Thanks for all the good info posted on this thread.

[R-Pow3R3d]

I'm not sure how I'd not added this to the how-to sticky yet, but I've resolved that error now.

[ggleavitt]

Others can respond, the lower intake manifold on mine had a sheen a little less than yours but, for the valve and injectors, mine had nothing like yours. Any hoses broken on PCV when you took it off? Lot of blow-by oil in there. Out of curiosity, are you using new parts to put everything back in part or in full? Thinking that if you clean everything up and put back, hopefully with all new PCV, you ought to be fine. At least that would be my uneducated estimation.

[Goose]

Yes, it was definitely an oily mess in there. The hose coming from the PCV valve was cracked, although it was brittle and that crack may have happened when I removed it. So would it be worth it to pick up some reman injectors? Or just swap out the o-rings and pop the old ones back in? Otherwise I'm using all the new parts on the list you made with the exception of most of the screws/bolts. Also doing spark plugs. Power steering pump looks to have been done by previous owner. Any suggestions on what to use for cleaning the manifold and valves?

[ggleavitt]

I might use carb cleaner and clean everything up as much as possible. If you can get the injectors to a shop which specializes in service, cool. If not, use carb cleaner gently (soft toothbrush?) and new o-rings and put them back. Assume they were working fine before being removed and plastics are intact. Challenge with these injectors is they're not very common and replacement can be pricey.

**note- my opinion only, if you clean the injectors, don't use the toothbrush for the output holes, just gentle cleaning in a circular motion with a lint free cloth soaked with carb cleaner to prevent the holes getting clogged. Probably pretty obvious but I felt compelled to add this caveat.**

Blow-by may have just been an old PCV, again others who have done this job might chime in on their observations.

For sure let us know how it ends up. The more feedback, the better.

[peterz123]

It's expected to find some "varnish" inside the valve covers upper manifold and intake plenum as a result of many of these cars running dino oil for the first part of their lives, the oil in the lower manifold can certainly be from the PCV hoses but it looks pretty bad by the valves, and there looks to be oil on the gasket- do you have any service history on the car? the injector looks pretty filthy and like oil or fluid has seeped into the injector port and combined with dirt around the o- rings cleaning the injectors is the most critical here, be gentle and understand they've been subject to heat and fuel for years. I wonder if they all look like this one, again if there is a service history showing a leak or other event it might explain it. Carb cleaner or brake and parts cleaner works well for the cast aluminum parts just don't get it on any plastic parts.

[Goose]

Thanks ggleavitt and peterz123 for the good advice. I wrapped up the valve cover job and everything is running smooth. No codes that weren't already there The deposits around the valves were maybe even worse than the pictures showed. It was a really thick layer of gum - I could almost stick my thumb and forefinger together with it. I removed probably 90% of it, it really slowed the job down. The injectors were pretty gummy too but cleaned up well. I replaced the o rings although they looked to be in good shape.

Once I removed the valve covers it was obvious someone had been in there before. The bolts on the rear valve cover felt noticeably less torqued than the front, and one of the sealing plugs had a poorly fitting flat washer stuck on top of it in place of the brass washer it should have had. I don't know any history of the car but my impression of it when we bought it at 80k (now at 99k) was that it probably had a lot of city (south Florida) miles.

I'd still like to know what explains the oil blow by and gummy condition of the engine as well as (I'm assuming) the high crankcase pressure that was causing the failure of the gaskets. All down to the PCV? Oil choice or time between changes? The valve cover gaskets were beginning to weep all around (only dripping in one place - on to the alternator - which is what kicked this whole thing off) and I think the crankshaft oil seal may be leaking as well.

Never did get to the alternator, as I had to get the car back on the road quicker than expected. Long story that involves an R slave cylinder. So I'm hoping the alternator feels better without oil leaking on it. What a good feeling to see this thing out of the garage and ready to go.

[ggleavitt]

Congrats on getting it done, glad everything worked out!

One little odd thing from my job, had a slight fuel smell after driving for a couple of days afterwards. Attributed this to seating of the injectors with new o-rings or maybe seating of the FPS. Went away after a number of drive cycles. Thought to mention in the event others may notice the same thing, "slight" being the operative word.

[Catman420]

Definitely take your time. I did mine about a year ago and after everything's buttoned up I started it up and had fuel everywhere. Had to tear it down again and reseat the injectors, talk about p offed. Think I made up new curse words that day.

[bootsie]

As has been said, Thanks so much peterz123 and ggleavitt for the detailed advice and parts list in this thread, super helpful. I did this job a couple weekends ago, and it went OK since I was quite prepared going in.
I can confirm that Victor Reinz valve cover gaskets P/Ns REI-713785900 and REI-713785800 are great quality and fit, and they come with all the "sealing plugs" or "valve cover bolt O-rings" needed to replace every sealing mechanism on the lower side of the valve cover. Plus they are cheaper than the Volvo gaskets, while coming with more parts in the box. Win-Win. (Yes, they are shown in FCP Euro's website picture of the part, but I didn't notice that. I ordered a few extra sealing plugs just in case, and ended up not needing them.)

Another part comment, Don't use Continental serpentine belt P/N 4060990. It is just a HAIR too short, but listed as the correct replacement. I had to re-install the old belt, as my dealer wanted $75 for a Volvo belt. Maddening.

Also, I'll stress being CARFUL with removing the electrical plugs from the fuel injectors... I was being careful, but I broke the retaining tab off one connector and didn't realize it until it wouldn't stay on during reassembly. The air movement between banks of the V8 must be nil, all plastic parts are just crunchy and fragile. To fix it, I may have just super-glued the connector to the injector... Hopefully I won't be back in there for a good long while!

Good Luck, all!

[caliwagon]

Also, I'll stress being CARFUL with removing the electrical plugs from the fuel injectors... I was being careful, but I broke the retaining tab off one connector and didn't realize it until it wouldn't stay on during reassembly. The air movement between banks of the V8 must be nil, all plastic parts are just crunchy and fragile. To fix it, I may have just super-glued the connector to the injector... Hopefully I won't be back in there for a good long while!

I also broke off a few of those tabs on the fuel injector plugs (this was my second time removing the fuel rail). I ended up using small zip ties to secure the plugs when reassembling. No problems after 3000+ miles.

[Volere]

I am getting ready to do the timing cover gaskets which would also include the valve cover/manifold gaskets, plugs, belt, pulleys, tensioner, crank seal, solenoid seals, crank case valve, injector O-rings. Is there any 'Special Attention' areas or steps I need to observe?

thx in advance.

[bluebossa]

Injectors arrived this morning, reman Volvo PN 8653608 just as advertised. Put them in with a little synthetic grease and everything popped in place after getting the cables right. Got buttoned up (few more remove/replace of a few things to accommodate cable runs and hose connectors) and car is running great with all (OE blue box) new top end gaskets and hardware plus plugs, PCV/hoses, FPS, and injectors with O-rings. *I used all the parts on my list post for the record.*

Really poor with annotating photos but here’s a link for picture reference:
https://goo.gl/photos/tcLSKkYEp6KqkbaR9 [I]

Great pics, thanks - identified my Coil Earths - all look good...

[bear1906]

What happens if i dont change gasket and it just seeps? I might just use a thicker oil like someone mentioned

[R-Pow3R3d]

What happens if i dont change gasket and it just seeps? I might just use a thicker oil like someone mentioned

That's an interesting question to me, because I just recently found out that "High Mileage" oils "swell up seals". Would this be a situation where high mileage oil might be just the solution needed, particularly for those with very faint/slow leaks?