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    1. #71
      Quote Originally Posted by bear1906 View Post
      What happens if i dont change gasket and it just seeps? I might just use a thicker oil like someone mentioned
      IMO if it's not dripping, there isn't much to be concerned about. You will need to do the job anyway (maybe) so I would just wait till it has to be done. The valve covers won't blow all the oil like a rear or front seal.
      2010 XC90 V8 - 113k miles
      2012 S60 T5 - 160k miles
      2009 C30 - Totaled. It ate a minivan at 35mph.
      2006 S40 - at 217k it was tired and needed too much.
      2008 XC90 3.2 - traded with 220,780 miles

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    3. #72
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      Quote Originally Posted by bear1906 View Post
      What happens if i dont change gasket and it just seeps? I might just use a thicker oil like someone mentioned
      On my previous cars (mostly BMW's) where the valve cover bolts are easily accessible, I would just back them off and then (re)-torque the bolts in a crisscross manor. Sometimes this helps.

      Anybody tried that?
      2009 XC90 V8 R-Design

    4. #73
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      Quote Originally Posted by Masscomguru View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by bear1906 View Post
      What happens if i dont change gasket and it just seeps? I might just use a thicker oil like someone mentioned
      IMO if it's not dripping, there isn't much to be concerned about. You will need to do the job anyway (maybe) so I would just wait till it has to be done. The valve covers won't blow all the oil like a rear or front seal.
      It leaks but not enough to drip beyond skid plate. Maybe a half a quart to quart every 4k miles. I do smell it burn slightly when I park. I might switch from synthetic to a blend if synthetic is too thin.

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    6. #74
      Junior Member caliwagon's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by PAX5 View Post
      On my previous cars (mostly BMW's) where the valve cover bolts are easily accessible, I would just back them off and then (re)-torque the bolts in a crisscross manor. Sometimes this helps.

      Anybody tried that?
      Might be worth trying, but when I changed mine the problem wasn't that the valve cover gaskets has shrunk. They were just rock hard and brittle at 140k miles.
      2007 XC90 V8
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    7. #75
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      Where is the PCV valve on the v8 anfd how can you tell its bad?

    8. #76
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by bear1906 View Post
      Where is the PCV valve on the v8 anfd how can you tell its bad?
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-valve-on-a-V8
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    9. #77
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      I just completed this repair and a big thanks to those who put info into this thread.

    10. #78
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bboarder711 View Post
      I just completed this repair and a big thanks to those who put info into this thread.
      Any details, pictures, problems you ran into? Please share.
      2009 XC90 V8 R-Design

    11. #79
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      So I bought the kit of gaskets from FCP Euro which look identical to the OEM parts in every way. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...-kit-reinz-kit and a PCV valve.

      My PCV valve was about 50% blocked at 150k and pretty disgusting. In addition I had a bit of sludge due to the infrequency the previous owner got oil changes done ( I am ever 5000k with full synthetic)


      The only real trouble on this was some access around the coolant lines going under the upper intake plenum and throttle body. Not impossible just difficult and there were 3-4 lines if i remember right.

      The issue was with the 2 stubborn grounds in the rear bank as described in multiple posts ahead of mine. The problem here is as you will get to them you will break the stud free before you get the nut off the top. I ended up putting on a new ring connector to the wire and loosening the nut on the bench.

      otherwise this was relatively straight forward and just time consuming.

      BTW 08 S80 for those curious if its the same. it is

    12. #80
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      2005 V8 owner here w/ 119K miles. The indy shop that I have been taking it to - Scandinavian Import Service Center in Rockville MD - is now recommending that I replace the front and rear valve cover gaskets. They are quoting me $635 for the job. Seems crazy low based on other estimates I have seen. Too good to be true? I don't know enough to know whether they would do the job properly, but they seem to be a good, reputable shop.

      Was somewhat inclined to "let it ride" and not do anything until I see more signs of leaking oil (especially since I don't put a lot of miles on this car), but at this price, maybe a good preventative maintenance item to take care of.

      Thoughts?
      2005 Volvo XC90 V8

    13. #81
      Member RedGeminiPA's Avatar
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      Might as well go for it. If the rear is leaking on the alternator, it'll turn into an expensive job in a hurry if you have to pay someone to do it.
      2006 XC90 V8 w/ Climate, Touring, Convenience and RSE. Silver w/ Graphite
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    14. #82
      Junior Member SpitzeStrom_Terp's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by DavidSG View Post
      2005 V8 owner here w/ 119K miles. The indy shop that I have been taking it to - Scandinavian Import Service Center in Rockville MD - is now recommending that I replace the front and rear valve cover gaskets. They are quoting me $635 for the job. Seems crazy low based on other estimates I have seen. Too good to be true? I don't know enough to know whether they would do the job properly, but they seem to be a good, reputable shop.

      Thoughts?
      These guys know what they are doing, and while not always the cheapest price around town with so many smaller independent shops in our area, stand behind their work and usually have the background on our Volvo's issues. The fact that they are quoting a lower-than-expected price for you is just a bonus.

    15. #83
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      Thanks for the feedback. I did have that repair mentally slotted in for this year so probably will go ahead and take care of it.
      2005 Volvo XC90 V8

    16. #84
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      Hi David,

      if you do this with Scandinavian in Rockville, do let me know I am also interested and like you i have this on my to do list at some point. I have been adding some ATP AT-205 polymer re-seal and this works great while it is not leaking too much, but that won't last forever... I am contemplating doing the valve cover gasket myself with all the good info here but for the price you got it sounds a very good bargain.

      Cheers
      2005 XC90 V8 TF-80SC 116k miles

    17. #85
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      Quote Originally Posted by stayfunny View Post
      Hi David,

      if you do this with Scandinavian in Rockville, do let me know I am also interested and like you i have this on my to do list at some point. I have been adding some ATP AT-205 polymer re-seal and this works great while it is not leaking too much, but that won't last forever... I am contemplating doing the valve cover gasket myself with all the good info here but for the price you got it sounds a very good bargain.

      Cheers
      Just got it done this week. Ended up closer to $800 as they had to replace a few additional parts but still seems like a good price compared to other quotes I’ve seen.
      2005 Volvo XC90 V8

    18. #86
      Just posted on YouTube. I do not know the poster:

      Last edited by R-Pow3R3d; 09-18-2019 at 01:20 AM.
      2010 XC90 V8 - 113k miles
      2012 S60 T5 - 160k miles
      2009 C30 - Totaled. It ate a minivan at 35mph.
      2006 S40 - at 217k it was tired and needed too much.
      2008 XC90 3.2 - traded with 220,780 miles

    19. #87
      So inspected the valve covers. They are all still dry at 121k miles. It appears my "seep" is coming from the upper front VTC solenoid. Anyone know if i can just replace the seal on that with out tearing into the whole valve cover?

      Thanks!

      found this for a LR3 4.4 v8 which looks very similar. Is it truly this easy?

      Last edited by Masscomguru; 09-19-2019 at 05:32 PM.
      2010 XC90 V8 - 113k miles
      2012 S60 T5 - 160k miles
      2009 C30 - Totaled. It ate a minivan at 35mph.
      2006 S40 - at 217k it was tired and needed too much.
      2008 XC90 3.2 - traded with 220,780 miles

    20. #88
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      Quote Originally Posted by Masscomguru View Post
      So inspected the valve covers. They are all still dry at 121k miles. It appears my "seep" is coming from the upper front VTC solenoid. Anyone know if i can just replace the seal on that with out tearing into the whole valve cover?

      Thanks!

      found this for a LR3 4.4 v8 which looks very similar. Is it truly this easy?
      My understanding after reviewing the video above is that these seals need to be installed from the INSIDE of the valve cover ... so yes, the valve covers need to come off.

      I'm glad you brought this up, because I have been chasing a mysterious seeping oil leak (2009 v8 RD) and have not been able to find the source/origin ... We even put a dye in the oil. We find the oil on the block after a while, but can't determine where it comes from. This is one one area I have not inspected.

      What other areas could oil leak from on these engines?
      2009 XC90 V8 R-Design

    21. #89
      28:56 he describes that maybe covers, then seals, then the rings holding the seals down. Just looking for confirmation of that.
      2010 XC90 V8 - 113k miles
      2012 S60 T5 - 160k miles
      2009 C30 - Totaled. It ate a minivan at 35mph.
      2006 S40 - at 217k it was tired and needed too much.
      2008 XC90 3.2 - traded with 220,780 miles

    22. #90
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      Nice video. I am genuinely curious how much swearing he had to edit out of that video. I just finished getting the car back together after doing this job and I can tell you if it a rather time consuming job. (For the guy who said he was quoted $635, wow I hope you took that deal and ran with it!)
      My frustration has just peaked as I got everything buttoned back up, started the car, and had a fuel leak as well as an oil leak. I tore the upper intake manifold off to find that the fuel is spraying out from the rail and realized I did not reassemble the injectors properly. I already fixed that, but I don't know (yet) where the oil came from. I could have sworn the gasket was seated properly on the entire perimeter of the valve cover, and it was torqued properly.
      Luckily, the front valve cover looks OK.
      I'll re-inspect and re-install the back side when my nerves settle a bit.
      Matt
      2005 Volvo XC90 V8
      2006 Volvo S60R - 6MT
      2012 Volvo XC60 T6 R-Design
      1991 Volvo 940 - 2JZGTE, 600rwhp

    23. #91
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      Re-installed. All was well, but seemed to idle a bit rough. Got a CEL within minutes, scanned with VIDA, and I have 8 ECM codes relating to the ignition coils. All the ground wires are re-attached to their posts and each plug is firmly pushed onto the plug. I doubt all 8 coil packs were randomly damaged.
      What else would this be? (They were all completely fine before the valve cover gasket job)
      Attached Images Attached Images
      Matt
      2005 Volvo XC90 V8
      2006 Volvo S60R - 6MT
      2012 Volvo XC60 T6 R-Design
      1991 Volvo 940 - 2JZGTE, 600rwhp

    24. #92
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      Follow-up to the above: turns out one of the ground connections had come off, somehow affecting all 8 coil packs. Re-made the connection and all is well. Now I play the waiting game to see if the occasional oil smell is still from the original spill or if there is a slow drip from something. I am very confident the gasket is on properly now and everything is torqued to 7 ft-lb. Hopefully it disappears within a few hours of driving.
      Matt
      2005 Volvo XC90 V8
      2006 Volvo S60R - 6MT
      2012 Volvo XC60 T6 R-Design
      1991 Volvo 940 - 2JZGTE, 600rwhp

    25. #93
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      just done this last weekend, big thanks to this thread! Mine was slightly different being the brake cylinder is directly behind the engine, us being right hand drive and all. I did get a fuel injector kit from ebay via China, the kit appears to be pretty high quality.
      Though at 120k km (75k miles) the top o-ring is in pretty good shape, the bottom's darkened though still have good elasticity. The top plastic retainer though were all crispy, and the bottom space is very strong and very difficult to remove. At the end I just carefully chewed the bottom spacer with pliers to bits so it'd disintegrate and fall off.

      The residual fuel inside the fuel injector actually cleans varnish better than MAF cleaner spray I got, so don't waste the fuel pour it out once you get the filter out and quickly wipe the whole unit with it. sparkling clean.

      can see some pictures here

      Regarding the ccvt solenoid seal mentioned before, you "can" press it in, but getting the existing one out probably won't be easy.
      At the end I had to clean the site, lube it well in the edges, and slowly push it out from behind with a well positioned pair of pliers. The gasket isn't 100% rubber, it's rubber covered piece of metal.

      My pcv wasn't blocked, but it must've been leaking slightly, there was heavy soot build up around the pcv valve. I might order a new part or just get the 2 o-rings. For the time being I packed the o-ring full of silicone grease and hope it'd at least seal better than before.
      Last edited by kiwiV8; 12-03-2019 at 03:53 AM.
      2011 XC90 B8444S R-Design 614 120k km RHD

    26. #94
      Member Hong Kong's Avatar
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      I suggest to anyone after many years lets say 5 to 10 y. old car if you are doing all this job also to change all ignition coil and vvt cable harness connectors. Its not expensive at Dave Burton page set and i made on my car after 12 years all was britle snap from covered heat of engine. Many problems you will solve in advance. All isolation of wires and plastic connectors will snap with even small push on them.
      Type PCV cable harness here in forum and find my so simple job to cut outside of engine harness...mark all wires and properly crimping new harness.

      For 2.5t engine i paid around 120 us$ all.


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    27. #95
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      just linking to this for the lazy https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...xc90-2-5t-2006
      That looks really good Hong Kong!

      My cable shields are mostly still pliable except those around major coolant hoses, so I bought these with tesa tapes to repair sections that have gone brittle and crispy. Will need various sizes, I only got 1/4" and 3/8" can see I'll be needing some 1/2" ones in the future.

      edit:added picture, the bit around upper radiator hose is cooked to bits, so I replaced that section... will see how long the tape lasts

      ulNKxXkh.jpg
      Last edited by kiwiV8; 12-09-2019 at 07:30 AM.
      2011 XC90 B8444S R-Design 614 120k km RHD

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