Audio Upgrade - Page 4
Username
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4
    Results 106 to 134 of 134

    Thread: Audio Upgrade

    1. #106
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      San Francisco, CA
      Posts
      579
      Looking good. With regards to your power cable termination, I would find the appropriate spade size with the largest gauge body you can. Then strip back an extra .5" and cut the strands to fit. Slip over a piece of shrink tubing, crimp and flow solder, heat the tubing to bridge the insulation, bare wire and spade. Since you are firing into the moveable floor, I would make sure you have the accessory floor mat that can fold to further weight and damp the floor. Since this design is effectively a bandpass one, the risk is for the bass to be "one note" and restricted dynamically (either on or off) due to the mass loading of the air spring in front. Should this be the case, you have an acoustical tuning capability allowing you to reduce the size of the "port" by framing the woofer on one to three sides attaching the frame either to the floor or the woofer cabinet.


      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    2. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    3. #107
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517

      Audio Upgrade

      Update:
      The 10" JL sub and box are installed, powered up, and tuned. Let me just say that the 400 watt built in amp is more than enough. At half gain to 3/4 gain it will rattle everything and force you to turn it down. The system is blended in perfectly and really lets the stock premium speakers show of their mid to highs. All in all it's a much better system now.

      With the Harmon Kardon premium system I set it similar to Mark but decreased the 60hz completely on the EQ. No need to boost the low frequencies only to pass them onto the sub's amp.

      EQ settings:
      60 hz , full negative
      200 hz, 5 clicks up
      1 khz, 3khz, 12khz flat

      Bass and treble set to flat
      Fade/balance centered
      DPL II surround: ON
      Gain : - 2 clicks
      Center speaker: + 3 clicks

      Specific to my 10" JL Audio sub and and sealed box with 400 integrated amp, I have the high pass filter set around 75hz, and the gain at 50%.

      The system is balanced perfect. Only issue for those considering a 10" sealed box is that the parcel floor will rattle unless you figure out how to keep weight on it or put rubber dampers on the edges. As Mark pointed out there's a lot of air moving under there and it actually caused the floor to rise up. The sound and tone is good - similar to when the floor is removed. If I had a ported box I'm not sure if it would be better since some of he air would be going out of the port but I'm sure this problem can be fixed. I'm considering lining the edge of the parcel floor with Dyanamat, or finding some type of rubber strip to dampen it.

      Forgot to add..
      For those ordering the SOT 045 or CT10VL05 wiring harness to tap the front speakers at the amp the price I paid in the US was $30 on Ebaywith free shipping from a U.K. Seller. The delivery took 3 weeks. Keep that delivery time in mind.



      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Last edited by tunedxc60; 11-11-2016 at 01:36 PM.
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    4. #108
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Sep 2014
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      484
      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      Update:
      The 10" JL sub and box are installed, powered up, and tuned. Let me just say that the 400 watt built in amp is more than enough. At half gain to 3/4 gain it will rattle everything and force you to turn it down. The system is blended in perfectly and really lets the stock premium speakers show of their mid to highs. All in all it's a much better system now.

      With the Harmon Kardon premium system I set it similar to Mark but decreased the 60hz completely on the EQ. No need to boost the low frequencies only to pass them onto the sub's amp.

      EQ settings:
      60 hz , full negative
      200 hz, 5 clicks up
      1 khz, 3khz, 12khz flat

      Bass and treble set to flat
      Fade/balance centered
      DPL II surround: ON
      Gain : - 2 clicks
      Center speaker: + 3 clicks

      Specific to my 10" JL Audio sub and and sealed box with 400 integrated amp, I have the high pass filter set around 75hz, and the gain at 50%.

      The system is balanced perfect. Only issue for those considering a 10" sealed box is that the parcel floor will rattle unless you figure out how to keep weight on it or put rubber dampers on the edges. As Mark pointed out there's a lot of air moving under there and it actually caused the floor to rise up. The sound and tone is good - similar to when the floor is removed. If I had a ported box I'm not sure if it would be better since some of he air would be going out of the port but I'm sure this problem can be fixed. I'm considering lining the edge of the parcel floor with Dyanamat, or finding some type of rubber strip to dampen it.

      Forgot to add..
      For those ordering the SOT 045 or CT10VL05 wiring harness to tap the front speakers at the amp the price I paid in the US was $30 on Ebaywith free shipping from a U.K. Seller. The delivery took 3 weeks. Keep that delivery time in mind.



      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Very nice, it sounds like your sub is pushing more air at the floor or being ported makes a difference as my floor does not rattle. the only thing i keep on top is the oem mat. EIther way i think the dynamat will help, maybe dynamat the whole floor?


      Did you have any issues with the amp's auto turn on feature?

      Also how did you mount the sub to the car? I still haven't bolted mine down as the weight of the floor and the parcel tray seem to keep it from going anywhere, but i'd like it to be secured in case of a accident.
      2015 XC60 RD | eibach springs | snabb intake | TDI tune | Niche 21x10 wheels

    5. Remove Advertisements
      SwedeSpeed.com
      Advertisements
       

    6. #109
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517
      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      PIN 6, mine is vacant just like yours as shown. How did you come to the conclusion that it provides switched 12v? Is this switched 12v as an output from the amp, or from an alternate version of this connector harness with the 12v switched being fed from the other end?
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    7. #110
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      New York
      Posts
      55
      Just a quick FYI. I was able to get the harness from Car Audio Direct, a U.K. Outfit. The harness is put together by Connects2.


      Happy Motoring, your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    8. #111
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517
      Yeah, I got the same one off Ebay. I've been using it for a month or so, with no issues, but now I got a new amp that requires switched 12v. When I originally hooked up the harness I didn't connect this wire, and just left it short and taped it. I anticipated this problem sometime down the road if I got a new amp that didn't use speaker audio sensing as a remote turn on, so I pre-ran a wire from the cargo area to the factory amp under the passenger seat. In a perfect world I would be able to find a switched 12v off the amp, and just splice it together. This would avoid having to use a line output converter just to get the 12v remote turn on, and then having to find constant power in the cargo area for it to switch. I noticed in bhom920's post that he labeled pin 6 as +12v switched, but based on my testing I'm not getting any voltage out of the factory amp on that pin, and then factory harness that plugs into it had that pin removed, and there was no wire on it. In all of the manuals I read I didn't see any mention of pin 6, so I can't tell if it's supposed to be an output or input from the harness or the amp itself.
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    9. #112
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      New York
      Posts
      55
      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      Yeah, I got the same one off Ebay. I've been using it for a month or so, with no issues, but now I got a new amp that requires switched 12v. When I originally hooked up the harness I didn't connect this wire, and just left it short and taped it. I anticipated this problem sometime down the road if I got a new amp that didn't use speaker audio sensing as a remote turn on, so I pre-ran a wire from the cargo area to the factory amp under the passenger seat. In a perfect world I would be able to find a switched 12v off the amp, and just splice it together. This would avoid having to use a line output converter just to get the 12v remote turn on, and then having to find constant power in the cargo area for it to switch. I noticed in bhom920's post that he labeled pin 6 as +12v switched, but based on my testing I'm not getting any voltage out of the factory amp on that pin, and then factory harness that plugs into it had that pin removed, and there was no wire on it. In all of the manuals I read I didn't see any mention of pin 6, so I can't tell if it's supposed to be an output or input from the harness or the amp itself.

      My stock connector on my high performance 2010. Ten wires, eight for speakers. Other two I simply connected. So far so good in my volvolicious.


      Happy Motoring, your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    10. #113
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517
      Thanks for the picture. I see you opted to simply leave that pin 6 vacant. It doesn't appear to be needed. I assume your subwoofer amp is using speaker level sensing to turn on?
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    11. #114
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      New York
      Posts
      55
      No no no. The pic is the factory connector. All it uses is ten wires. I have no sub. Just a new amp for front.


      Happy Motoring, your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    12. #115
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Sep 2014
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      484
      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      PIN 6, mine is vacant just like yours as shown. How did you come to the conclusion that it provides switched 12v? Is this switched 12v as an output from the amp, or from an alternate version of this connector harness with the 12v switched being fed from the other end?
      I must have labeled this as a mistake. I think i got this from the parrot harness. I did not use it or test it after finding out the auto turn on worked perfectly.
      2015 XC60 RD | eibach springs | snabb intake | TDI tune | Niche 21x10 wheels

    13. #116
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517
      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      I must have labeled this as a mistake. I think i got this from the parrot harness. I did not use it or test it after finding out the auto turn on worked perfectly.
      Thanks. I'm planning on just purchasing a cheap Scosche line output converter today and taking the output from the factory amp and splicing the left channel audio to the input of the converter in parallel with the cable that goes to my subwoofer amp left channel input. I've already got a wire from the passenger seat to the rear, so I'll plan on placing the line output converter under the seat and spicing the output from the line output converter to the subwoofer amp remote turn on wire. Just need to find constant low current 12v somewhere in the passenger seat area. I suppose I could always use a scotch lock on the 12v lighter plug in the center console. I was entirely trying to avoid splicing into factory wiring, but it seems to be the option at the moment.
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    14. #117
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      New York
      Posts
      55
      Imho, I would jury rig one of the aftermarket connectors and try not to splice original.


      Happy Motoring, your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    15. #118
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517
      There might be a switched 12v in the cargo fuse block. I know Autozone sells the "add a fuse" fuse taps. That would be ideal. I'm looking at the fuses there now.
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    16. #119
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      San Francisco, CA
      Posts
      579
      Unless something has changed electrically in the last couple of years, you will not find any switched 12v lines in the rear. This is not how switching is handled in these Volvo's. 12v is maintained everywhere with electronic ground-based switching.


      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    17. #120
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517
      Mark, I took the long way around to realize that. I did find the fuse box under the glove box #21 (5 amp), and #22 (15 amp) are switched 12 volt. #21 is "laminated panoramic roof, Courtesy Lighting, climate system sensor" and #22 is "12-volt sockets in tunnel console". What was weird was that my meter was reading .489 volts to ground (measured off a bolt on the door, and off the seat bolt). So I'm not sure if my meter was picking up stray voltage or if truly in fact it switches between a half a volt and 12 volts when ignition is on. I'll use an add a fuse like this : http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...yword=fha200bp to switch the ground. I'll put something small, like a 3amp fuse on the wire going to the remote lead.

      I'm also having to relocate my amp ground to the driver side, because the large JL Audio HD750 amp won't fit in the passenger rear cargo area very well without some adjustments.

      A lot of effort for custom, but it will look great in the end.
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    18. #121
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517
      So, everything's in. The amp was a tight fit and required me to relocate the amp ground to the driver side of the cargo area.

      The sound is awesome. Last things to do will be to custom cutout the black spare wheel tray and then investigate a few nagging rattles coming from what I believe to be either the cargo area floor pan or the spare wheel and jack. There is about 1.5-2" of clearance between the top of the speaker grills to the bottom of the cargo floor.

      This is what two JL Audio 10" sealed subwoofers (CS110LGTW1-2) and a JL Audio 750watt amp (HD750) look like under the floor cover:




      Because the JL Audio HD750 amp requires a switched 12 volt input to turn the amp on a lot of effort was put into finding the best way to do this. The method I chose to use was tapping off the center console 12v accessory fuse within the fuse box in the front of the vehicle. The fuse box is under the glove box, and is the one on the left (there are two fuse boxes under the glovebox). The fuse is #22 on my 2016 XC60. I used an "add a fuse" type mini fuse tap that was purchased at a local auto part store. The fuse tap allows you to remove the existing mini fuse, then insert the tap. On the tap itself the original fuse goes in, and then you add a 2nd fuse for the device which you are powering. I used the smallest mini fuse I could find (3 amp), and then ran a small gauge wire from under the glovebox back to the amp.
      Here is what that looks like:


      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    19. #122
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Sep 2014
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      484
      it came together real nice. Where are you located btw? I would love to hear it
      2015 XC60 RD | eibach springs | snabb intake | TDI tune | Niche 21x10 wheels

    20. #123
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517
      Thanks. I'll post up pics of the finished install when it's complete. The rattles are driving me crazy, so I think it's time to properly sound insulate a lot of areas of the vehicle. I'm in the Northwest Indiana suburbs of Chicago.
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    21. #124
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      63
      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      Thanks. I'll post up pics of the finished install when it's complete. The rattles are driving me crazy, so I think it's time to properly sound insulate a lot of areas of the vehicle. I'm in the Northwest Indiana suburbs of Chicago.
      @tunedxc60, I am not surprised it is rattling. I posted to you previously that because your boxes are not ported, your cargo-floor has become a passive radiator. My suggestion to you is to cut holes in the cargo floor for your speakers and use a speaker bar grill as such: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K9JXWEW/.
      You have a lot of energy confined in a very small space. Opening it up will benefit you. I think it will also improve your sound quality as in your current configuration - you effectively have a one-note bass. A very loud one I am sure, but still a one-note bass.

    22. #125
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517
      Thanks Foosy. The floor itself isn't rattling, I think its the speakers in the rear doors, or some other metal noise that is hitting some kind of resonant frequency. I'm concerned about using bars like you've shown, I'm trying to retain the stock, stealth, look.
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    23. #126
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      San Francisco, CA
      Posts
      579
      Great job! You definitely should be able to "raise the floor" with their output. I assumed you jumpered the + and - series connection with as short a cable as possible. Also I would ensure that there is a firm connection between the bottom of the amp and your floor as that will eliminate 2nd order vibrations that could impact the amp's internal components. Details like this and the method you chose to attach the boxes would be very useful for those attempting to replicate.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    24. #127
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      San Francisco, CA
      Posts
      579
      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      Thanks Foosy. The floor itself isn't rattling, I think its the speakers in the rear doors, or some other metal noise that is hitting some kind of resonant frequency. I'm concerned about using bars like you've shown, I'm trying to retain the stock, stealth, look.
      One thing you might consider to eliminate the bandpass loading that causes the lack of pitch definition, is to use a router (preferably a plunge style) to create a series of holes from the back of the floor panel that leaves the front cloth intact. Such holes could have enough floor material between them to the panel's ability to hold cargo. If necessary you could reinforce with some low profile cross bars below. The thickness of the floor panel material is not an issue with the frequencies you are dealing with and it would improve the quality of the bass significantly in my experience.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    25. #128
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      517

      Audio Upgrade

      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      One thing you might consider to eliminate the bandpass loading that causes the lack of pitch definition, is to use a router (preferably a plunge style) to create a series of holes from the back of the floor panel that leaves the front cloth intact. Such holes could have enough floor material between them to the panel's ability to hold cargo. If necessary you could reinforce with some low profile cross bars below. The thickness of the floor panel material is not an issue with the frequencies you are dealing with and it would improve the quality of the bass significantly in my experience.
      Great idea. I'll consider it! The floor isn't very thick so it will take some precision to get through the floor but not the carpet in a nicely defined pattern. It would need a very shallow bit. One little oops and it's game over and the carpet is cut.

      Right now the amp is mounted to the floor with 3m dual lock strips. Seems to be holding well and has the side benefit of a little metal on metal isolation similar to double sided mounting tape. For now the speaker boxes are just resting in there but slightly wedged against the spare tire and rear seat frame. I'll likely figure something out more permanent but right now it's not an issue.

      The two 2 ohm speakers are ran in series for a final 4 ohm load on the amp. The amp is rated 750 rms but speakers are good for 300 each. I'll need to tune the gain on the amp down to the correct output voltage to limit the rms power output to 600 watts to avoid overplaying the speakers. Right now I have the sensitvity set for about 75% max and use a front mounted base knob that I have mounted in the armrest to control up or down.



      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

    26. #129
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      63
      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      One thing you might consider to eliminate the bandpass loading that causes the lack of pitch definition, is to use a router (preferably a plunge style) to create a series of holes from the back of the floor panel that leaves the front cloth intact. Such holes could have enough floor material between them to the panel's ability to hold cargo. If necessary you could reinforce with some low profile cross bars below. The thickness of the floor panel material is not an issue with the frequencies you are dealing with and it would improve the quality of the bass significantly in my experience.
      Great idea here.
      I also recommend that you test the sound without the cargo floor. Not elevated, completely removed.

      If the rattling continues, start by checking any possible loose items. Make sure the spare tire is tightly secured. If not sure if the tire is the cause, completely remove it. Then check the amp connection to the car. You may want to use some foam or rubber in between them. Also check the speaker boxes bracing. If none of these is the issue - it will be more complicated to determine the source of the rattling.
      Good luck!

    27. #130

      Wiring for ktp-445a

      Hi guys!

      I'm a new member here.
      I just read thir tread and started buying stuff from ebay. Now that I finally got everything I need all the images are gone!
      Can someone help me? I need to know how to connect the ktp-445a

      Thanks in advance and greetings from Sweden.

      Regards Jonathan

    28. #131
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Sep 2019
      Posts
      1
      Hey!

      Same issue here. Im new member and I can't see the images. Can someone give a link to original images? I appreciate it!


      Martin

    29. #132
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Posts
      82
      I'm going to try and replicate this installation in a few months to upgrade the audio in my V60. Photobucket has blurred the images unfortunately (at least on my end) so it's hard to get a sense of the wiring harness that needs to be prepared. Let me step through the setup to see if I got this right as I never had to upgrade a system on any of my previous cars:

      1) SOT-045 accessory interface leads are used to create two wiring harnesses.
      2) One harness is being plugged into the audio out portion of the amp and the into the harness going to the speakers
      3) The second harness is plugged into the factory harness feeding the amp and ultimately into the new Alpine amp.

      That way the the factory harnesses feeding the factory amp and the speakers don't need to be cut or modified.

      I hope I'm understanding this correctly.

    30. #133
      Junior Member johnsnowkornar's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 2017
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      14
      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      I had some time this afternoon to install the Alpine power pack. The SOT-045 harness made the wiring super easy, i can say that this was the easiest amp that i've installed. None of the factory wiring was touched, I was also able to use the built in speaker sensing function of the amp so that i did not need a remote turn on wire. The hardest part of the install was placing the new amp. I wanted to keep it right behind the factory amp like another member did on this forum, but the mess of harness and extra wire was a little bit of a pain to tuck in the right places. A quick tip: Be careful of the fiber wires located on the right side of the oem amp (they are orange). My amp is not mounted, it just happened to wedge perfectly in the space. See pics below of the installation:

      De-pinning of any "extra wires"


      All of the harnesses prepped and ready for soldering


      The finished plug and play harness


      Amp installed. This picture was taken with the seat all the way forward.



      Overall impressions from a quick drive:

      I'm not a audiophile or a audio expert, but the mids and highs are much more brought out from the headphones for guitar AMP. Bass seems to remain about the same which could just be a driver limit or acoustical limit of the door. I was listening to some electronic, pop, and rap when i did this quick test. So far i'm very happy with what i hear. This amp upgrade might just be the small bump that most will need to be very happy with the factory high performance speakers. Stay tuned for the speaker upgrades next week.
      Bass Reflex modernization, they ensure that you don’t miss every speck of it.

    31. #134
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2018
      Posts
      6
      Another way to get better audio quality audio for your XC60 is to use a portable DAC and plug it into your 3.5mm connector. If you use Tidal or another high resolution music app from your phone, the quality of the music is a remarkable upgrade. I have the upgraded Harmon Kardon system in my XC60 and I find there is no reason to upgrade any audio components after using the portable Dac setup.

      I have been upgrading audio systems in vehicles for many years and have found this to be great solution

      DAC Products that I have use:

      Hiby W5
      Earstudio ES100
      Shangling UPH-4

      good luck!

    32. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4