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    Thread: Audio Upgrade

    1. #71
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      So which sub did you like better?
      2015.5 xc60 T5 AWD current
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    3. #72
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      still waiting for the alpine to come in. UPS says tomorrow.
      2015 XC60 RD | eibach springs | snabb intake | TDI tune | Niche 21x10 wheels

    4. #73
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      Gotcha. I can't wait to hear your thoughts. How is the pioneer sub working in the mean time?
      2015.5 xc60 T5 AWD current
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    6. #74
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      Let me start off this post with WOW!. Alpine did a really hit it out of the park with the SBR-S8-4. I am having a tough time realizing it only has a 8inch driver and it's not even broken in yet!

      Now for the fun stuff. The enclosure is tall. I knew before buying this that the enclosure itself would hit the strut, but i took some incorrect measurements and the subwoofer ended up being in the way. Not a big deal, but it went against my plans of not modifying the car. I ended up cutting a portion of the fiberglass strut as shown in the pictures below and now the driver clears without issue. The rest of the strut does rest on the enclosure causing the floor to "float" ever so slightly. I am still debating on how i want to handle this. I may just leave it as the floor flex's enough to not cause issue.

      As of right now I am thrilled with this sub. It's put my past two 8inch subwoofer options to shame. The bass hits very low. It's rated for down to 30hz and I believe it. I still have some final mounting to do as the enclosure is not bolted down nor is the amp. It shouldn't really move anywhere with the weight of the floor sitting on the enclosure, but i'll figure out something.

      Now onto the pics:

      unboxing



      size comparison with the pioneer


      the strut issue


      my strut clearance fix for the driver, i used the trim ring as a cutting guide



      trim ring around the speaker grill had to be removed, it may fit, but i left it off for added clearance


      "floating" floor. You can see at the very edge how its not sitting flush. You can put just a little weight on it and it will sit flush.
      Last edited by bhom920; 03-24-2016 at 09:42 PM.
      2015 XC60 RD | eibach springs | snabb intake | TDI tune | Niche 21x10 wheels

    7. #75
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      Nice feedback. Looks like I know what sub to get.
      2015.5 xc60 T5 AWD current
      2012 C30 R-Design previous

    8. #76
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      Just to follow up on my install. I think by now everything has broken in and I am extremely happy with how everything turned out. The alpine sub makes enough bass to really feel it in your gut and also probably the car next to you if you wanted. I opted to get the Alpine bass control as sometimes I want to tone it down when I have passengers. I still have not blown my 15 amp fuse on my amp power feed so that's a plus!
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    9. #77
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      Wow ... clean!
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    10. #78
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      Sweet. I had to put everything on hold for a bit. But I am glad to hear that the system is working so well.
      2015.5 xc60 T5 AWD current
      2012 C30 R-Design previous

    11. #79
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      Audio Upgrade

      Bhom920, did you think about installing third-party amplifier for front and rear accoustic?


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    12. #80
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      Quote Originally Posted by AndreyS View Post
      Bhom920, did you think about installing third-party amplifier for front and rear accoustic?


      Sent from Tapatalk
      Yes I have a alpine KTP-445U amplifier for the front and rear speakers installed to power the new JBL speakers
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    13. #81
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      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      Yes I have a alpine KTP-445U amplifier for the front and rear speakers installed to power the new JBL speakers
      No, sorry, little language problems..
      I telling about installing normal amplifier + (maybe DSP), with uninstalling stock.

      As I understand you know electronics, diodes, transistors etc.
      Did you see stock amp inside? Incredible, but "scarry"...
      Have interest in photos?

    14. #82
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      Audio Upgrade

      This is High perfomance


      Only one TAS5414A for all four channels! (quality? Maybe... At no more 14-15W/ch with a reasonable level of distortion)

      2x AKM4388VT...


      But anyway - i think you now have better than stock, congrat!


      Sent from Tapatalk
      Last edited by AndreyS; 04-05-2016 at 04:38 PM.

    15. #83
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      Quote Originally Posted by AndreyS View Post
      No, sorry, little language problems..
      I telling about installing normal amplifier + (maybe DSP), with uninstalling stock.

      As I understand you know electronics, diodes, transistors etc.
      Did you see stock amp inside? Incredible, but "scarry"...
      Have interest in photos?
      Oh I see, nope, I think there are a few people that tried to crack the MOST network, but I don't understand enough to make an attempt. Thank you for that picture. I was expecting to see more inside that casing.


      more info on that chip, correct me if i'm wrong but based on this datasheet it's showing the chip is capable of 38w x4 RMS @ 2ohm?
      http://www.ti.com/product/tas5414a
      38 W into 2 Ω at 1% THD+N
      45 W/Ch Into 2 Ω at 14.4 Vdc at 10% THD+N
      Last edited by bhom920; 04-06-2016 at 12:04 PM.
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    16. #84
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      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      Oh I see, nope, I think there are a few people that tried to crack the MOST network, but I don't understand enough to make an attempt. Thank you for that picture. I was expecting to see more inside that casing.
      What you mean with "crack MOST"?
      I know minimum 2 products: Audison bit DMI and moBridge DA1 or DA2... Not cheap, i know
      Two(or three) weeks ago i see this thread, and not sleep 2 nights. Read,read,read... Not all things i can buy here (especially Sub). But found small firm here who sell adapters own production.

      Great! I bought this adapter for myself! Cheap! This was beginning!

      Now i think about Sub. In the future it will be necessary to make the body for wofer

    17. #85
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      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      the chip is capable of 38w x4 RMS @ 2ohm?
      yes, on paper. And maybe in real, but distortion when we checked not good

    18. #86
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      Quote Originally Posted by AndreyS View Post
      What you mean with "crack MOST"?
      I know minimum 2 products: Audison bit DMI and moBridge DA1 or DA2... Not cheap, i know
      Two(or three) weeks ago i see this thread, and not sleep 2 nights. Read,read,read... Not all things i can buy here (especially Sub). But found small firm here who sell adapters own production.

      Great! I bought this adapter for myself! Cheap! This was beginning!

      Now i think about Sub. In the future it will be necessary to make the body for wofer
      MOST is the fiberoptic network volvo uses to link all the systems together. It's not a standard optical network.
      2015 XC60 RD | eibach springs | snabb intake | TDI tune | Niche 21x10 wheels

    19. #87
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      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      MOST is the fiberoptic network volvo uses to link all the systems together. It's not a standard optical network.
      Yes, i know. On new platform (SMA, new XC/S90) new bus - MOST150 (this is problem for now), on P4 platform (our XC60) - MOST25...

      Audison was first who made the adapters MOST-TosLink
      Last edited by AndreyS; 04-06-2016 at 01:13 PM.

    20. #88
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      MOST is used by many manufacturers. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOST_Bus
      2014 XC60 T6

    21. #89
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      update 8/16/16. Still enjoying the system. no issues. I did hack up the trunk tray to fit the subwoofer and amp which i forgot to post up. It could have been a bit better in the fitting department, but the 45 degree edges and the contours of the tray made it a more difficult.

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    22. #90
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      Exceptional write-up. I plan on following your build for our new-to-us '14 XC60 RD.
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    23. #91
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      For me I choose different way



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    24. #92
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      Quote Originally Posted by AndreyS View Post
      For me I choose different way



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      very nice! post some more pictures. Are you going with a 8 or a 10inch?
      2015 XC60 RD | eibach springs | snabb intake | TDI tune | Niche 21x10 wheels

    25. #93
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      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      very nice! post some more pictures. Are you going with a 8 or a 10inch?
      10"...
      I will post some pics of installation here later.


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    26. #94
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      update 8/16/16. Still enjoying the system. no issues. I did hack up the trunk tray to fit the subwoofer and amp which i forgot to post up. It could have been a bit better in the fitting department, but the 45 degree edges and the contours of the tray made it a more difficult.

      If you had to do it all over again would you do anything differently? Does the single 8" alpine hit hard enough for you? I like how you originally had everything hidden under the floor, but I was curious what could be done differently to get the floor to sit flush. Do you have any issues with thee floor causing any annoying rattles or shakes because the woofer is aimed directly at it?

      Thanks.

    27. #95
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by AndreyS View Post
      For me I choose different way



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      Yes!! Finally found someone who decided to install the subs in the sides of the rear. How did it go? Any pics or details? I assume you made the boxes yourself custom.

      Thanks.

    28. #96
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      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      Let me start off this post with WOW!. Alpine did a really hit it out of the park with the SBR-S8-4. I am having a tough time realizing it only has a 8inch driver and it's not even broken in yet!

      Now for the fun stuff. The enclosure is tall. I knew before buying this that the enclosure itself would hit the strut, but i took some incorrect measurements and the subwoofer ended up being in the way. Not a big deal, but it went against my plans of not modifying the car. I ended up cutting a portion of the fiberglass strut as shown in the pictures below and now the driver clears without issue. The rest of the strut does rest on the enclosure causing the floor to "float" ever so slightly. I am still debating on how i want to handle this. I may just leave it as the floor flex's enough to not cause issue.

      As of right now I am thrilled with this sub. It's put my past two 8inch subwoofer options to shame. The bass hits very low. It's rated for down to 30hz and I believe it. I still have some final mounting to do as the enclosure is not bolted down nor is the amp. It shouldn't really move anywhere with the weight of the floor sitting on the enclosure, but i'll figure out something.

      Now onto the pics:

      unboxing



      size comparison with the pioneer


      the strut issue


      my strut clearance fix for the driver, i used the trim ring as a cutting guide



      trim ring around the speaker grill had to be removed, it may fit, but i left it off for added clearance


      "floating" floor. You can see at the very edge how its not sitting flush. You can put just a little weight on it and it will sit flush.
      How does the single Alpine 8" compare to the single Pioneer 8"? The box on the Alpine is huge in comparison. If you had to do it all over again would you go with the single Alpine 8" with the sealed box like you did, or go with 2 pioneer units?

      Thanks for pictures. This thread is priceless.

    29. #97
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      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      If you had to do it all over again would you do anything differently? Does the single 8" alpine hit hard enough for you? I like how you originally had everything hidden under the floor, but I was curious what could be done differently to get the floor to sit flush. Do you have any issues with thee floor causing any annoying rattles or shakes because the woofer is aimed directly at it?

      Thanks.
      I am very happy with the outcome. Just to clarify, for the most part the floor sits flush. It's a very tight fit, but can be fixed if you choose to cut the fiberglass hump on the bottom of the false floor completely off. I chose to leave it and have not had a single problem with it. No vibrations or any odd noises with the subwoofer facing the floor. Keep in mind it is a ported box with the port being on the side of the box. If i had to do it all over again, i wouldn't have wasted my time with the pioneer subwoofer. I do recommend the alpine amplifiers as their auto turn on seems to play nice with the factory amp (which is made by alpine).

      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      How does the single Alpine 8" compare to the single Pioneer 8"? The box on the Alpine is huge in comparison. If you had to do it all over again would you go with the single Alpine 8" with the sealed box like you did, or go with 2 pioneer units?

      Thanks for pictures. This thread is priceless.
      It's a huge difference!, imo i would not waste your time on the pioneer 8". The frequency response that i was getting out of it was similar to that of what i could get out of the JBL door speakers so sometimes you'd forget the subwoofer was even there, but with the Alpine you know it's there (i recommend a remote bass knob). It's capable of much lower frequencies that will shake your mirror. Another subwoofer which was on my list, but ultimately did not go with was this powered JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3 http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1369333...v3.html?tp=114 .
      Last edited by bhom920; 10-15-2016 at 08:00 AM.
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    30. #98
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
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      I found a few other subs that might work. Looks like Rockford Fosgate makes a line of 8, 10, and 12 inch enclosures that might fit:

      http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...tails/p3s-1x12


      I wonder if the sealed box would have enough air volume available.

      With the experience between the Pioneer and Alpine do you think the biggest reason for the improvement was the ported box, or the sub itself?

      I'll some measurements again this morning but it would be awesome to fit two 10's or 12's in that space, but even though it may fit it might sound due to lack of air volume.

    31. #99
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
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      I've been doing some research on subs that fit and have taken some measurements of the XC60 wheel well area that seems ideal for subwoofer placement.

      For those trying to figure out "what will fit" for a subwoofer box on an XC60 hope this helps:

      Max width: 11.75" boundaries are the seat brackets and the spare wheel
      Max length: 19.5" boundaries are the two screw studs for the factory subwoofer (not US spec). OR
      23.5" boundaries are the cables on left and right side of vehicle, Note this requires the threaded studs to be cut/dremel'd off. OR
      27.0" boundaries is the spare wheel well insulation on left and right side, Note this requires cutting the threads like above AND relocating some of the factory cable more to the sides
      Max height: Variable. Appears that 5" is optimal, but 7.5" would be max. Anything over 5" appears that the factory tray would have to be cutout to the dimensions of the box, and that the trunk liner lid strut would have to be ground down.


      Based on that I looked at the more premium solutions, and building on lessons learned from others on the forum.

      Top Lessons Learned:
      Lesson #1:
      The premade bass units (lots of them out there - Kicker, Fosgate, MTX, etc, etc) no one has any success with, Amazon, Crutchfield reviews are horrible.
      Lesson #2:
      The down firing Pioneer boxes seem like a great fit because the box dimensions fit, but the reality is that the boxes are too small, and without significant power aren't great quality, and don't provide enough volume.
      Lesson #3:
      Just because a subwoofer is bigger doesn't mean its better - having an adequate size box is just as important. The box (and amplifier) need to be matched to the speaker volume requirements and amp needs to be matched to the RMS value of the woofer.
      Lesson #4:
      Take your time and measure, measure, measure before cutting up the trunk liner insert so it looks nice and professional when the install is done.


      Based on lessons learned, and the fact that I'm not a professional speaker box builder, I looked for premade box and sub combos from all reputable speaker vendors. I've come down to a few options that would fit and provide significant quality and volume:

      1. JL Audio - Two 10" TW1 speakers in a premade sealed box - CS210LG-TW1 - $419.99/Ebay is best price Rated for 600 Watts RMS
      Dimensions 22"W x 11-3/4"H x 7-5/16"D
      2. JL Audio - 1 10" TW1 speaker in a premade sealed box with built in AMP - ACS110LG-TW1 - $449/online. Rated for 400 Watts RMS
      15"W x 11-3/4"H x 5-9/16"D
      Version also available with non integrated AMP for cheaper $$ - JL Audio CS110LG-TW1-2 - $279.99 300 Watts RMS
      3. JL Audio - 1 8" W3V3 speaker in a premade PORTED box with built in AMP - ACP108LG-W3v3 - $429/online 300 Watts RMS
      Dimensions 18-5/8"W x 11-3/16"H x 6-5/8"D
      Also available a version with non integrated AMP for cheaper $$ - CP108LG-W3v3 - $259.99/online - rated for 250 Watts WMS
      4. Alpine Type R speaker - 8" in a PORTED box - SBR-S8-4 - $249.99/online - Rated for 350 Watts RMS
      Dimensions 19-1/4"W x 11-3/8"H x 6-5/8""D
      Last edited by tunedxc60; 10-16-2016 at 01:03 PM.

    32. #100
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      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      Lesson #3:
      Just because a subwoofer is bigger doesn't mean its better - having an adequate size box is just as important. The box (and amplifier) need to be matched to the speaker volume requirements and amp needs to be matched to the RMS value of the woofer.
      I would just like to clarify and correct this lesson a bit. Your understanding is correct that bigger is simply not better and that the box/enclosure must be taken into account. I would not use the term "adequate size" here. The size is dictated by the driver's electrical and mechanical properties as well as the type of loading and the desired output and frequency response. This is a multi-dimensial design problem not easily tackled without trial and error, test equipment or engineering expertise. Size can also be reduced quite a bit running the driver below its system resonance and EQing it up at 6db per octave. Takes a lot of power though.

      The other statement regarding matching the RMS of the woofer to the amp, is a common misunderstanding. The RMS of a driver is simply how much it can handle thermally. This says nothing about the efficiency or output of the driver much less when it is in an enclosure. RMS values are also a function of the impedance that they are measured at as well as whether this is a peak or period of time (continuous) test. On the other hand, an amp's RMS reflects its rated output a a certain distortion and frequency response and is measured into a fixed resistance and not a driver. Therefore, amp RMS and driver RMS are measured differently and are not comparable in this manner. Unfortunately, this is used as a common upsell strategy.

      The bottom line is, I can run a 100W RMS amp into a 500W RMS woofer just fine as long as the output is in my desired range without clipping the amp, and I can run a 500W amp into a 100W driver as long as the output is fine without overheating its voice coil. Matching will not guarantee either.
      Last edited by mark-sf; 10-16-2016 at 11:57 PM.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    33. #101
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      to answer your previous post, I think the improvement is a component of both box size and driver quality.
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    34. #102
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      JL Audio sealed 10" fits like a glove. Model is ACS110LG-TW1. It has a built in 400watt amp that i wired to the battery through the grommet under the right side floor under the dash. I was then able to run the wire up an access under the windshield near the ECU and into the battery box. This required removing the wipers and front plastic tray in the engine bay. Still waiting on the SOT045 cable from the U.K. But everything is pre run. I tested the sub with the RCA cables and it hits hard. More than enough for this vehicle . Also in case anyone wanted to know the JL dual 8's CP208 won't fit because the trunk of the XC60 has metal that comes up on the sides and prevents you from using the whole width of the trunk. I wish I would have known this before I bought the sub and dremel'd off 8-10 screw studs, relocated wires to the extreme edges, and trimmed the thick gray sound deadening.

      Test fit 10" . Had to trim the strut with my dremel multimax. Btw the dremel multimax with a carbide blade took take of the screw studs easily.

      Next steps are to trim the package tray carefully, tidy everything up, and when the cable harness gets here do the final adjustments into the stock premium sound system.
      Last edited by tunedxc60; 10-30-2016 at 11:26 AM.
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    35. #103
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      It is great you found a pre-packaged sub solution that fits the restricted dimensions and has signal-based switching. In reviewing the specs, once the floor is laid down, the woofer's grill appears to be right up against it. This will have an effect of severely slot-loading the woofer as well as constricting its output. Have you tried it with the floor in place yet? Would be interested in what you find when you do. Running a dedicated power cable (8ga?) back to the battery is wise given the high current amp. You might also mention where you affixed the power ground for others who may attempt to use this woofer. Keep us updated.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

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      tunedxc60, do you have any more pics of the trimmed hatch floor strut? i'm curious to know how much was needed on your setup. thanks for sharing!



      BTW is that a ported or sealed sub? JL's website says slot ported, but i don't see the port in the pictures.
      Last edited by bhom920; 10-30-2016 at 04:58 PM.
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    37. #105
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      It is great you found a pre-packaged sub solution that fits the restricted dimensions and has signal-based switching. In reviewing the specs, once the floor is laid down, the woofer's grill appears to be right up against it. This will have an effect of severely slot-loading the woofer as well as constricting its output. Have you tried it with the floor in place yet? Would be interested in what you find when you do. Running a dedicated power cable (8ga?) back to the battery is wise given the high current amp. You might also mention where you affixed the power ground for others who may attempt to use this woofer. Keep us updated.
      The nice part part about the TW1 series of JL Audio woofers is how the basket of the sub is set deep within the box, so that the woofer grill is very shallow and still allows for a lot of woofer excursion and at the same time maintains a slim exterior profile. I ground the strut from the floor completely smooth with my Dremel multimax tool to maximize the amount of air separation between the woofer grill and floor. I don't have the Parrot/SOT045 harness yet so haven't tested the performance with the vehicle audio, but I have tested it with my Iphone and a headphone to RCA cable setup, and I am extremely impressed. The bass performance is extremely deep and loud. I did some testing and with the sensitivity on the built in amp at 50% and Iphone volume at 50-75% it is at the point where it needs to be turned down. I noticed that with the floor panel on, and the doors and windows closed the bass performance is much better than when the hatch is up. I've heard this is because of the sealed vs. ported box when I was doing research on deciding what sub and box to use.

      I'll calibrate everything 100% once I get the cable and can setup the Volvo premium sound equalizer. I'm planning on turning down the 50hz eq almost all the way and leaving the sensitivity around 50% on the sub. More to come once I get the cable on that. I actually ran a 4 gauge power cable and ground since I was debating on putting dual 10's (almost fits) that would require 600watts, so I didn't want to go cheap on the power cable (do it right , and once the first time). The downside to this is that the 4 gauge power doesn't fit very well into the amp. The JL Audio manual says to strip and push the bare cable into the power terminal, but I'm very concerned that the ground and power may touch if some loose straggler strands come out. My plan is to find a spade terminal or something similar to crimp on the 4 gauge wire so it makes a nice tight fit into the terminals or maybe even a 4 gauge to 8 gauge butt splice. More to come on that. I ended up using the ground on passenger side rear in the trunk. I believe this is what you used, near where you mounted your Rockford amp. My initial plan was to get a 500watt Alpine amp and place it there, but ended up going with the integrated amp/sub unit. To run power back from the battery to that location I used 17 feet of cable included in the amp wiring kit I bought (Metra 4 gauge kit from Sonic Electronic) would have been about perfect with maybe a foot to spare. I left the power cable long (didn't cut it short) so I can still change to an amp/sub setup down the road and not have to splice anything.

      These pictures show how much clearance there is with the floor panel down.





      Here's the picture of the ground.



      Quote Originally Posted by bhom920 View Post
      tunedxc60, do you have any more pics of the trimmed hatch floor strut? i'm curious to know how much was needed on your setup. thanks for sharing!


      BTW is that a ported or sealed sub? JL's website says slot ported, but i don't see the port in the pictures.
      The box is a sealed box. I debated on the 8" ported vs. 10" sealed, and decided on the 10" sub. JL Audio calls this their Powerwedge+ line, and they are using the TW1 series sub which is a much lower profile design that their previous thin W3 line.

      I had to cut almost all of the strut. I would have cut more but the deeper I cut the more it was exposing the wood, and it was starting to get patchy, so I didn't go as deep as I originally wanted to. I used my Dremel multimax and then went back and cleaned it up with a power sander and 160 grit sand paper to smooth it out as good as I could.
      Here's a picture of it:




      Also here's some pictures of how I cut the tray out. I first made a template out of a cardboard box of the size of the sub, and then used painters tape to mark it out. I then used my Dremel tool to cut out the side of the tape line. I tried to keep a little bit of the rear support but it was so flimsy that I decided to just cut it off.




      Here's the finished product:



      I just need to paint the cut carpet area black, or try to cut some spare carpet off and glue it on. I want it to look perfect.
      Last edited by tunedxc60; 10-30-2016 at 06:46 PM.
      2018 XC90 T6 Inscription - Polestar tune + Racechip GTS, and Stealth Hitch
      2011 C30 (Ex K-Pax Racing)
      SOLD: 2016 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum/Inscription - Full bolt ons (Snabb air intake & turbo pipe, Do88 Intercooler, Viva Hybrid Turbo, Ferrita downpipe, IPD exhaust catback, H&R Springs), Stage 3 Hilton Tune: Dual JL Audio 10" stealth subs & 750Watt amp

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