JaredR's 1997 850R Estate progression thread

[ScottishBrick]

Curious whether the engine wiring harness from an 04 C70 is similar or identical to a 2001 P2

Close. Connections wise a few things change and it has no etm. Chassis wise the p2 harness is rather different.

[JaredR]

I can't wait for this thing to be done! Amazing progress Jared.

Thanks Ted! Neither can I; honestly the hard part was gathering the parts so I feel like I'm just cruising to victory at this point. Also really hyped to have more free time and not have an entire car's worth of parts from this thing strewn all over the property lol.

[JaredR]

As expected, a few issues were encountered in the subframe install. First was that the clutch line doesn't connect at the trans. Different fitting. Is this the correct clutch line to use with a M66 swap?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...181324#fitment



The shift cables don't connect. Also knew this. I had been debating what to do and after seeing it I decided it might be worth a try tto grab a set of P2 cables and see what happens. This also means that I'll need a P2 shifter and figure out some sort of adapter plate. I ordered one up from Europe so hopefully that won't take too long to show up. What this also means is the complete shifter experience will now be all P2. I really like the way the shifter feels in my S60 and I'll be thrilled to have that in a P80.


There was also a new problem: the N ECT sensor has much smaller threads than the RN one, and doesn't even come close to threading into any RN thermostat housings. I'd considered making a patch harness and running a RN coolant temp sensor, but I really don't want to mess with that given the ECT sensor is pretty important. Probably will end up making an adapter sleeve to screw into the RN thermostat housing that will allow the N ECT sensor to thread in.



Back to the forward progress.

Rat's nest of auto-down relays complete.




I made a patch harness to allow me to connect two cruise cancel vacuum switches.



I gutted a broken cruise cancel switch to start the patch harness.

[bmdubya1198]

Wow, that's a mess! Lol

I'm pretty sure that's the clutch line that I've seen used in M66 swaps. Might want to read over Mark/BlackT5's thread over on VS, he had a really complete swap thread.

What shifter/cables do you have now? P1?

[JaredR]

Wow, that's a mess! Lol

I'm pretty sure that's the clutch line that I've seen used in M66 swaps. Might want to read over Mark/BlackT5's thread over on VS, he had a really complete swap thread.

What shifter/cables do you have now? P1?

I have 850 cables now. P1 cables are backwards and won't work with a P80 shifter or a P2 trans. It would be easy enough to make the 850 cables work, but it'd require some meds that would be likely to result in a worse shifting experience.

[bmdubya1198]

I have 850 cables now. P1 cables are backwards and won't work with a P80 shifter or a P2 trans. It would be easy enough to make the 850 cables work, but it'd require some meds that would be likely to result in a worse shifting experience.

Ah, I knew that... yeah, and at this point it's not worth swapping in a P1 M66 to make it work! Lol
Also probably not worth modding the cables if it might screw up the feel. I can't stand a bad shifter... absolutely ruins the car.

[JaredR]

Ah, I knew that... yeah, and at this point it's not worth swapping in a P1 M66 to make it work! Lol
Also probably not worth modding the cables if it might screw up the feel. I can't stand a bad shifter... absolutely ruins the car.

Yeah exactly. I'd much rather mod up a shifter base adapter than mod the cable ends. I didn't want to run a P1 M66 or cables or shifter for a few other reasons so this seems like a better solution so far. We'll see how it plays out.


In other news....my exhaust finally showed up after it took an unexpected road trip to Ohio




I hit the JYs with ScottishBrick and Bobby last weekend and, among many other things, we scored some clean 850 carpet. Finally. My afternoon plans unexpectedly evaporated so I got them washed up and ready to go. If they are dry tomorrow maybe I will clean out the interior and throw them in.

[JaredR]

Started reassembling the passenger compartment.





Discovered a cracked damper actuator.




super glue didn't hold so I just threw an oteiker clamp on. Should take up the load and keep it from worsening.






Dashboard in.

[bmdubya1198]

Once the dash is in the rest is cake. I hate aligning those screws on the firewall... it's especially annoying after I've repaired the mounts and the nuts aren't PERFECTLY aligned.

[cyester]

What exhaust is that, Jared?

[ScottishBrick]

What exhaust is that?

Simons 850 single muffler sport touring

[JaredR]

Revised clutch line came in. Slipped right in.






P2 cables going in......or not quite.





Nothing a couple minutes with the Dremel couldn't solve









That's working way better. Now just have to wait for my P2 shifter to show up from Latvia....






Anyone know what these two nuts are from? Taller than a normal nut. I feel like I remember them coming from the steering column but I can't remember and didn't do as good a job marking interior parts than I did interior parts. That said, I was cruising around in VIDA for like two hours trying to track them down tonight and came up empty. Seems I have all the nuts/bolts for the steering column in place. I'm going to investigate further but I'msoliciting input.

[sventastic]

Pedal box bracket nuts?

[bmdubya1198]

Pedal box bracket nuts?

That's a possibility, IIRC those are a little longer like that.

[HATTRICK2199]

What is the part number for the clutch line you used? Would it fit on a M56 with an internal slave cylinder or is unique to the M66?

[JaredR]

Pedal box bracket nuts?

That's a possibility, IIRC those are a little longer like that.

Thanks guys! Those are a match. I must have kept the fasteners with the new pedal bracket when I pulled it so now I have extras.

What is the part number for the clutch line you used? Would it fit on a M56 with an internal slave cylinder or is unique to the M66?

It's the same line for M56 with internal slave. 9181324. If were doing this again, I would try to use the M56 bleeder/elbow in the M66 so that the line would fit perfectly.

[JaredR]

My P2 M66 shifter arrived yesterday. Not quite the same hole pattern as the 850 shifter.






one of the holes is in the right place. Had to trim the plastic thing below it to make room for the shift cables in that location.







Now just need to figure out how I am going to get more than one bolt to work and how I am going to make the reverse lockout work.


Broke out my new steam cleaner and cleaned up the passenger seat.

[Zoinks]

My P2 M66 shifter arrived yesterday. Not quite the same hole pattern as the 850 shifter.
One of the holes is in the right place. Had to trim the plastic thing below it to make room for the shift cables in that location.
Now just need to figure out how I am going to get more than one bolt to work and how I am going to make the reverse lockout work.

I'm not sure how much you want to cut the R up, idk if you want to keep the 'revert to stock' idea, but I've seen a lot of success come from rivnuts. I think they're pretty slick tbh, I only question the longevity of them. These mounting bolts don't get messed with too often, but force is definitely exerted on the shifter. It might be tricky getting the thread pitch/diameter you need though, just an idea.

[JaredR]

I'm not sure how much you want to cut the R up, idk if you want to keep the 'revert to stock' idea, but I've seen a lot of success come from rivnuts. I think they're pretty slick tbh, I only question the longevity of them. These mounting bolts don't get messed with too often, but force is definitely exerted on the shifter. It might be tricky getting the thread pitch/diameter you need though, just an idea.

My dad suggested those, too, lol. I'm not crazy about drilling holes in the car, but the even worse issue is that there is no boss on the bottom of the plastic plate the shifter mounts to to run the bolt through. The way the 850 shifter works, there is a Delrin bushing in the hole that sits on top of the metal sleeve that runs all the way through that plastic plate and bears on the car. So I want to keep that solid transfer of load all the way down to the car. The P2 shifter works a little differently. There's a metal sleeve that goes through the rubber bushing and bears up against whatever's under there in a P2. So I cut the top off of the sleeve so it's flush with the top of the plastic plate now and it bears on that. The easy solution here is to just throw a metal plate over the top of this thing and then I can put holes wherever I want but the issue is how to get the load to transfer straight down to the car and get the rubber bushings to work properly.

[Clarkson'sWagon]

Jared, are your seats "pilling" on the alcantara? I've been reading about different ways to remove it (shaving and sanding). Have you ever tried any of these methods? Interior looks good.

[JaredR]

Jared, are your seats "pilling" on the alcantara? I've been reading about different ways to remove it (shaving and sanding). Have you ever tried any of these methods? Interior looks good.

Thanks! Not a lot of pilling in this interior but there is some. I've gotten better results from sanding than fabric shaver, but that may be because I had a garbage fabric shaver. I used 600 grit sandpaper.

[Chuck W]

Thanks! Not a lot of pilling in this interior but there is some. I've gotten better results from sanding than fabric shaver, but that may be because I had a garbage fabric shaver. I used 600 grit sandpaper.

Good info. The R seats in my 854 are in need of a little help on the alcantara.

[bmdubya1198]

+1 on the plate idea, I was going to suggest that. I think an adapter plate will be your best bet to avoid drilling into the car several times!

I sanded my alcantara (I think using 600 as well) and it turned out great! Mine had some bad pilling, and it got rid of it fairly easily.

[CYB3RBYTE]

I shaved mine using a $10 shaver from amazon and had good results, but I've never tried sandpaper.

Jared, the car is looking better every day as usual! This is an ultimate professional ​restoration!!

[ZZZZZZZ]

Really well done, man. Can't wait to see it in person.

[JaredR]

My initial strategy of somehow modifying the shifter to work with the P80 bolt locations wasn't working.





Would have had to cut out an absurd amount of the plastic webbing.




This is obnoxious but workable.





Added some holes















Time for the big kids toys!!!






Only way to do it when you actually want your hole spacing to be correct.













Fits perfectly.




















This isn't awesome at all but it kinda works. It does seem to be the source of some instability but it doesn't seem to be super noticeable in the feel and the sleeve still bottoms out fine so I'll probably ignore for now. Doesn't seem like it'll cause any meaningful issues.








Had to make a custom bolt LOL.





Was hitting and making noise going into 1/2.





Success. Everything seems super solid except the aft port mount but it seems solid enough to be functional. Both of the metal sleeves are bottomed out on the car so it's not going anywhere.

[bmdubya1198]

Nice! Looks like that does the trick!

[JaredR]

Attempted to do my CBV with the IPD CBV kit a couple days ago.





It a shocking twist, that didn't really work out. It turns out that the IPD CBV kit is not legit lol. I figured the blue spring would probably be the one I'd want but then I was feeling them and thought the blue spring felt softer than the "stock" spring. So I thew them on the postal scale and felt how much force it took to compress them.





And the blue spring does indeed make your car slower! Then I decided that wasn't scientific enough, so I threw it on the drill press with the scale so I could have a consistent point every time to press to.









Obviously the numbers were different than previously but the relationships between the springs were the same, so I felt like that validated my data set. So I put that project on hold and I'll probably try to find out what spring Steve thinks would be best.








The hard wire loom doesn't fit over the M66 at all, so I had to ditch that and put regular wire loom on.
















Needed to add an additional power source for....oh, lovely, I forgot to take a picture . More to come on this.









And there's our install of this connector.








Uh oh. That's not clearing.







Time for some mods.






Yes that is a flathead wood screw lol. Hey it works. Had to file down the other side too.






Here's where we're at. I lost count of how many times the center console has been in and out and it'll probably be in and out at least a few more times.

[Clarkson'sWagon]

Attempted to do my CBV with the IPD CBV kit a couple days ago....It a shocking twist, that didn't really work out. It turns out that the IPD CBV kit is not legit lol.

Shocking! Didn't you tell me about the "quality" of Ipd branded parts when I joined the forums?

Just busting your b*lls. lol.

Is there room for a shim to pre-load the CBV factory spring? Or maybe an aftermarket bypass valve that recirculates?

[bmdubya1198]

Huh... I'm running the blue spring in my car. You sayin I should use the red? My boost peaks at 19-20 but runs at 16 normally.

[CYB3RBYTE]

When I did my CBV I noticed a signifiant improvement in performance. Then again my last one was toast, but I think my spring was fine. Maybe you received a bad spring?

[JaredR]

Shocking! Didn't you tell me about the "quality" of Ipd branded parts when I joined the forums?

Just busting your b*lls. lol.

Is there room for a shim to pre-load the CBV factory spring? Or maybe an aftermarket bypass valve that recirculates?

LOL yeah seriously. Other people have used this kit and thought it was legit so I rolled the dice. Really the only issue is that the blue spring is an epic fail, unless the diaphragm turns out to have durability issues. Maybe I'll grab a few low mile JY ones just in case lol. But, still, we can add this to the long list of IPD products that fails to meet expectations.

I think the stock CBV setup will probably be adequate for my needs.....just not with the blue spring. But to answer your question, there are options to go aftermarket. We'll see. I'll hand it over to Steve and see how he does tuning it and we'll go from there.

Huh... I'm running the blue spring in my car. You sayin I should use the red? My boost peaks at 19-20 but runs at 16 normally.

Well the IPD instruction manual says you should run the red spring for 18-20psi. I'd definitely at least take your blue spring out and compare to a stock spring. I'd be interested to see if this problem is consistent from batch to batch. That said, I don't trust the IPD instruction sheet at this point and I'm not a tuner so I don't really have an answer.

When I did my CBV I noticed a signifiant improvement in performance. Then again my last one was toast, but I think my spring was fine.

I mean, if you diaphragm is bad you're just gonna make boost in a circle and not get any power and blow up the turbo. That'll make a way bigger difference than changing the spring.

Maybe you received a bad spring?

I'm pretty sure that just comes with the territory buying from IPD these days.

[bmdubya1198]

I may swap to the red one. I'll have to compare that blue spring to the stock one.

[SonicBlueR]

I have the iPd CBv in my 19T and that thing holds boost really well. I think the red spring is in it. Also have a turbosmart dual port actuator. That was a good upgrade, very tight and accurate. Same one that comes on the EFRs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[andyb5]

Tons of people had problems with the IPD diaphragm tearing prematurely. A quick search of VS will show that it’s not worth installing.

The forge piston-type CBV is the most durable upgrade.