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    1. #36
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      Quote Originally Posted by Farslasher View Post
      Yeah as av8rbama said, call there customer service. I spoke with Mark and explained to him the issue, if you ask for the c7 corvette extension arm and let him know its for your volvo xc90 he should know what your talking about now. The home link buttons are completely accessible when using the c7 corvette arm extension which is a big plus!

      For the Max mute button it works good actually, brightness and mute are the only two button I can comfortably hit. I just switched out my escort max 360 to the Valentine One which I like better because you can make it rest ever further back.
      I'm calling tomorrow and ordering two arms... One for my wife's XC90 and one for my V60. 👍🏼

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    3. #37
      Junior Member XC90-Will's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by av8rbama View Post
      Not very difficult. There is a small portion directly covering the mirror stem that will expose the green connector, however I was unable to remove it without taking off the entire cover first.

      I was able to remove the entire shroud by pulling gently with my fingers from the lower corners of the shroud.
      Thanks for the info! Turned out great. I started by removing the ceiling panel where the roof switch is. Clearly that wasn't necessary ahah. But I ended up finding the green connector. I used a similar mirror tap but with a USB out. I wish that company making your radar brackets had something for 1/4in threads mount but oh well. Doesn't look too bad.




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      2016 XC90-R (OSD) T6-Polestar

    4. #38
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      Quote Originally Posted by XC90-Will View Post
      Thanks for the info! Turned out great. I started by removing the ceiling panel where the roof switch is. Clearly that wasn't necessary ahah. But I ended up finding the green connector. I used a similar mirror tap but with a USB out. I wish that company making your radar brackets had something for 1/4in threads mount but oh well. Doesn't look too bad.




      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Did you call BlendMount to ask if they had a mounting solution with 1/4" threads?

      I just finished installation of the Corvette Arm my wife's XC90 and my V60. Very pleased, the XC90 looks just like the pics in this thread, pics of my V60 are in the thread linked below. Thanks Farslasher for leading the way!

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...73#post4032273

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    6. #39
      Junior Member XC90-Will's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by av8rbama View Post
      Did you call BlendMount to ask if they had a mounting solution with 1/4" threads?

      I just finished installation of the Corvette Arm my wife's XC90 and my V60. Very pleased, the XC90 looks just like the pics in this thread, pics of my V60 are in the thread linked below. Thanks Farslasher for leading the way!

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...73#post4032273
      I did not call. Do they have items on the phone not listed on the web site ?


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      2016 XC90-R (OSD) T6-Polestar

    7. #40
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      Quote Originally Posted by XC90-Will View Post
      I did not call. Do they have items on the phone not listed on the web site ?


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

      I've discovered that most of the components that make up the mounts are interchangeable. I called and requested only a Corvette Arm, they sent it to me for a paltry sum (I think I was charged $27 for 2 of them, don't quote me on that).

      Their customer service is amazing. Call and talk to them, they'll tell you if it is possible to build what you require.

    8. #41
      Administrator chris@swedespeed's Avatar
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      Thanks for this thread. Pulled the carpet back and I'm working on a hardwire install now.

      the fuse door swings out? Mine won't budge.


      Got it. Requires a slight twist at the back. A little tight getting around the carpet.
      2017 S90 Inscription (daily)
      2016 S60CC (next generation Volvo driver)
      2017 XC90 Momentum Plus (family)

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      2019 XC40 R-Design T5 AWD, 2017 V90 Cross Country T6 AWD , 2018 V60 Polestar #103/1500, 2016 XC90 R-Design, 2013 C30 Polestar #141/250,2015.5 V60 R-Design,1998 V70 T5M, 1999 S70 GLT, 2000 V70R, 2004 V70R, 2006 V70R Sonic Blue, 2006 V70R Electric Silver, 2007 V70R Passion Red, 2003 XC90 2.5T, 2007 XC90 V8 Sport Electric Silver, 2007 XC90 Sport V8, Passion Red

    9. #42
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      Mirrortap is the way to go

      Quote Originally Posted by av8rbama View Post
      Last week, I installed a BlendMount and MirrorTap hardwire for an Escort/Beltronics Radar Detector on my wife's XC90.

      I've been a big fan of BlendMount for several years, having used them previously in a Honda Accord, and currently in my V60 and Silverado.

      Instructions for removing the mirror shroud can be found here..

      I'm not sure why their website hasn't been updated, but a phone consult with J28 Designs (the creators of BlendMount and MirrorTap) confirmed that the new XC90 uses a current-production BMW mount. Part number BMW-008. I also ordered a 20" MirrorTap (20" is far too much and I coiled up the excess, a 10" would suffice).

      There is a small green plug (three wires) mounted on the starboard side of the mirror stem that powers the accessories within the mirror: auto-dim, compass, HomeLink.



      I confirmed the center wire (black/yellow) to be ground and found constant voltage on both the white and blue/yellow wires. Experimenting while sitting in the car (both in driver's seat and pax seat), I could never get the voltage to drop on either the blue/yellow or white wires with the engine off, doors closed, dash black, etc. even after a few minutes. I assumed I would eventually be removing the a-pillar covers and fishing wire behind the airbags and down to the fuse box as shown earlier in this thread and as I've previously done on my V60 to install an EscortLive remote.

      Going with gut instinct, (assuming white was constant power for the HomeLink blue/yellow was switched power for the auto-dim/compass), I connected the MirrorTap black -> black/yellow and red -> blue/yellow.



      With polarity confirmed at the RJ11 connector, I plugged in the radar detector and viola, power to the fuzz buster.

      Immediately after installation, we drove to dinner with this wiring setup and the detector remained powered for at least 30 seconds after exiting the vehicle and locking it. However, the radar detector was powered off upon returning after dinner (confirmed by looking through the window) and it powered back on after opening the doors.

      I have kept this wiring setup for 6 days now with no apparent battery drain or error messages to the vehicle. If either of these conditions change, I will update this thread.





      As an aside, I currently use an Escort RedLine with an EscortLive Smart Cord in my V60 but it's a bit chatty for my wife's liking (I fished the wires through the waterfall and mounted the remote underneath the waterfall, easily accessible but practically out of sight.

      After a ton of research, I purchased an Escort Max 360 for her but I've temporarily swapped it into my car so that I can play with the Max 360 on a road trip tomorrow. The detector mounting clips are interchangeable between the BlendMounts in my V60 and her XC90 by removing two allen screws.

      Thank you av8rbama! The mirror tap took minutes and was effortless. I was able to just remove the one middle part behind the mirror and immediately saw the green wire to tap. It does stay on a few minutes after car is turned off or unlocked but reliably turns off.

    10. #43
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      Pictures?

      Looks like 3rd party hosting isn't free on photobucket any more so av8rbama's pictures aren't viewable here. Anybody have the URLs or a copy of the pics so I can take a look? Getting ready to try a mirrortap installation of a VIOFO A119S DashCam and could probably benefit from a peek at them. Thanks!

    11. #44
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      Thank you for the instructions. Did my v1. Added an inline 5amp fuse.
      Sid
      2019 Volvo XC90 T6 OSD
      2007 Porsche 911 Turbo
      2004 Dodge Viper SRT-10
      2012 Ducati Diavel

    12. #45
      Junior Member gunshow's Avatar
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      Too much work put into your wiring. I wired my Valentine power and ground into the 12v port wires under the cupholder which is easily accessible by removing the side cover of the center console on the passenger side.

      You MUST ensure you are running the wire BEHIND the airbag in the A-pillar as well.
      Disgruntled Volvo Technician & Owner.

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    13. #46
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      Quote Originally Posted by gunshow View Post
      Too much work put into your wiring. I wired my Valentine power and ground into the 12v port wires under the cupholder which is easily accessible by removing the side cover of the center console on the passenger side.

      You MUST ensure you are running the wire BEHIND the airbag in the A-pillar as well.
      going to the mirror takes 10 minutes. really easy and works great.
      Sid
      2019 Volvo XC90 T6 OSD
      2007 Porsche 911 Turbo
      2004 Dodge Viper SRT-10
      2012 Ducati Diavel

    14. #47
      Junior Member gunshow's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Sidwin View Post
      going to the mirror takes 10 minutes. really easy and works great.
      You are tapping into tiny wires with a low amperage fuse (if any fuse) at the mirror. I wouldnt risk it.

      Take your radar detector current usage and do some math to find out those tiny wires are designed to handle what you are asking. Will the car burn down? Probably not..... but as a expert in my field, I like to do thing right.
      Disgruntled Volvo Technician & Owner.

      DO NOT PM me with your car questions.


      DO NOT GO INTO THE CAR BUSINESS.

    15. #48
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      The point of the fuse on the v1 is to protect the rest of the circuitry that I’m connected into. I could care less about the v1. I wouldn’t want to damage the mirror. The v1 uses a 2.5amp fuse which is included in the direct wire kit. Why would I not install an inline fuse?
      Sid
      2019 Volvo XC90 T6 OSD
      2007 Porsche 911 Turbo
      2004 Dodge Viper SRT-10
      2012 Ducati Diavel

    16. #49
      Junior Member gunshow's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Sidwin View Post
      The point of the fuse on the v1 is to protect the rest of the circuitry that I’m connected into. I could care less about the v1. I wouldn’t want to damage the mirror. The v1 uses a 2.5amp fuse which is included in the direct wire kit. Why would I not install an inline fuse?
      You totally missed what i said... maybe I am being too technical.

      The mirror wire is a very small diameter and designed to only handle what it is supplying voltage/amperage to. Hooking up a radar detector to it cause the wire to carry more than it was designed to.

      Think of a firefighter trying to use a garden hose instead of a fire hose. The flow of water is impeded by the smaller diameter of the garden hose right? Wires and amperage/voltage works the same way. This is why when you hook up an audio amplifier to your vehicle, it is important to get as thick gauge wire as needed for the power draw of the amp.

      REFER TO THIS: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/a...uge-d_730.html
      Last edited by gunshow; 10-02-2018 at 06:39 AM.
      Disgruntled Volvo Technician & Owner.

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    17. #50
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      The wire for the dimming is 22 gauge. Which means the wire supports .92 amp transmission. https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm The v1 pulls .230 amp The dimming pulls 0 during the day. I have a friend at Gentex (manufacturer of homelink the mirror)and I will ask him what the draw is when the mirror is dimming. I’ll report the findings but highly doubt the mirror is pulling down more than .400 amp. In EE the greater fear is a surge frying everything else that is plugged in since you are now bypassing the safety mechanism of the fuse.
      Sid
      2019 Volvo XC90 T6 OSD
      2007 Porsche 911 Turbo
      2004 Dodge Viper SRT-10
      2012 Ducati Diavel

    18. #51
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      Quote Originally Posted by gunshow View Post
      Too much work put into your wiring. I wired my Valentine power and ground into the 12v port wires under the cupholder which is easily accessible by removing the side cover of the center console on the passenger side.

      You MUST ensure you are running the wire BEHIND the airbag in the A-pillar as well.
      Pics please!

    19. #52
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      I know this is an old thread but I wanted to thank the OP very much as he made this so easy!

    20. #53
      Junior Member DenverJaguar's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by av8rbama View Post
      Last week, I installed a BlendMount and MirrorTap hardwire for an Escort/Beltronics Radar Detector on my wife's XC90.

      I've been a big fan of BlendMount for several years, having used them previously in a Honda Accord, and currently in my V60 and Silverado.

      Instructions for removing the mirror shroud can be found here..

      I'm not sure why their website hasn't been updated, but a phone consult with J28 Designs (the creators of BlendMount and MirrorTap) confirmed that the new XC90 uses a current-production BMW mount. Part number BMW-008. I also ordered a 20" MirrorTap (20" is far too much and I coiled up the excess, a 10" would suffice).

      There is a small green plug (three wires) mounted on the starboard side of the mirror stem that powers the accessories within the mirror: auto-dim, compass, HomeLink.



      I confirmed the center wire (black/yellow) to be ground and found constant voltage on both the white and blue/yellow wires. Experimenting while sitting in the car (both in driver's seat and pax seat), I could never get the voltage to drop on either the blue/yellow or white wires with the engine off, doors closed, dash black, etc. even after a few minutes. I assumed I would eventually be removing the a-pillar covers and fishing wire behind the airbags and down to the fuse box as shown earlier in this thread and as I've previously done on my V60 to install an EscortLive remote.

      Going with gut instinct, (assuming white was constant power for the HomeLink blue/yellow was switched power for the auto-dim/compass), I connected the MirrorTap black -> black/yellow and red -> blue/yellow.



      With polarity confirmed at the RJ11 connector, I plugged in the radar detector and viola, power to the fuzz buster.

      Immediately after installation, we drove to dinner with this wiring setup and the detector remained powered for at least 30 seconds after exiting the vehicle and locking it. However, the radar detector was powered off upon returning after dinner (confirmed by looking through the window) and it powered back on after opening the doors.

      I have kept this wiring setup for 6 days now with no apparent battery drain or error messages to the vehicle. If either of these conditions change, I will update this thread.
      I am getting a different result after tapping into the same wires you did. My dash cam continued recording for 15 minutes, until I disconnected it, even after I'd closed the doors. It had to have been getting constant power that whole time, because mine has a capacitor that only lasts for a few seconds once power is disconnected. I am not sure what the issue is.

      Did you experiment with whether the power turns off with just he doors closed, or do the doors need to be LOCKED with the keyfob out of range? It's not going to be good if the keyfob is interfering with this, because it will cause the camera to run all night since there's only about 10 feet from my car to where I store the keys.
      HIS: 2018 XC90 T6 Inscription/Denim Blue Metallic/Amber nappa leather/Polestar/B&W/Convenience/Air Suspension/HUD/Climate/Protection Package
      HERS: 2017 BMW X1 xDrive 28i/Olive Metallic/Canberra/Tech/Premium/Driving Assistance Plus/Cold Weather Package/Harman Kardan audio

    21. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by DenverJaguar View Post
      I am getting a different result after tapping into the same wires you did. My dash cam continued recording for 15 minutes, until I disconnected it, even after I'd closed the doors. It had to have been getting constant power that whole time, because mine has a capacitor that only lasts for a few seconds once power is disconnected. I am not sure what the issue is.

      Did you experiment with whether the power turns off with just he doors closed, or do the doors need to be LOCKED with the keyfob out of range? It's not going to be good if the keyfob is interfering with this, because it will cause the camera to run all night since there's only about 10 feet from my car to where I store the keys.
      Mine is '19 T6 Inspiration so I am not sure if the behavior differs by year/model. It wakes up when I unlock, or open an unlocked door and remains on for a few minutes after the door is closed/locked. It stays on for several minutes till it times out. It stays on for quite a while to the point I thought it was not switched at all at first. The presence of the FOB near the car does not seem to wake it up.

    22. #55
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      Quote Originally Posted by Flame Red View Post
      Mine is '19 T6 Inspiration so I am not sure if the behavior differs by year/model. It wakes up when I unlock, or open an unlocked door and remains on for a few minutes after the door is closed/locked. It stays on for several minutes till it times out. It stays on for quite a while to the point I thought it was not switched at all at first. The presence of the FOB near the car does not seem to wake it up.
      My T6 R-design, also 2019, worked perfectly also, Very easy thanks to the instructions to access the wires.

    23. #56
      Junior Member ShaneXman's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Farslasher View Post
      I wanted to thank infinkc and av8rbama for your two setups which allowed me to complete my setup. I used the hardwire setup with a fuse tap to do the wiring for my radar detector, and then used the bmw-008 blendmount with a c7 (corvette) extension arm for $29.99 so the radar detector was rested back farther and I could utilize my garage door opener still along with see the radar detector more easily. I attached pictures below.
      -Mike



      Farslasher (or anybody else who may know),

      Did you also use the MirrorTap to provide power to your radar detector? If so, what length of wire did you end up going with? Blendmount's website recommends 15", but as av8rbama stated in his post, I'm wondering if I can get away with a 10" length. I guess the safe bed would be to go with the 15" version, and just coil any additional length in the rearview mirror shroud. Any and all help or direction would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know. Thank you in advance.


      -Shane
      Last edited by ShaneXman; 03-19-2019 at 11:14 AM.

    24. #57
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      Bumping this old thread because I used the info within to install my Blackvue DashCam with the Blendmount BBV-2019 and Mirrortap MTX-2015 and it was incredibly easy and looks great. Thank you for the resources.

    25. #58
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      Just did this too, literally took 5 mins. Reused my mirror tap that I had in previous car. Worked like a charm on my Escort 360 and M1 cam mounted on a blendmount.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    26. #59
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      Quote Originally Posted by howiedds View Post
      Just did this too, literally took 5 mins. Reused my mirror tap that I had in previous car. Worked like a charm on my Escort 360 and M1 cam mounted on a blendmount.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

      Which blendmount did you use? BNR-3114?

    27. #60
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      Screen Shot 2019-11-30 at 6.06.56 PM.jpg
      Quote Originally Posted by Sonartech View Post
      Not sure which one you have, but here's the instructions for the Lumision version which may be similar:



      The Fuse Tap works by breaking-out an existing connection into 2 circuits. The first circuit remains intact, and the original fuse for that circuit sits in the "lower" slot, closest to the metal contacts indicated by the blue arrow in the picture above. The fuse for the circuit you're adding goes into the top-most slot. Here's the rub, though - while there is no polarity for these fuses, there is a required polarity for the fuse tap. If it's installed backwards, the fuse won't do anything and the circuit you're adding won't be protected by the fuse in the top slot. That's what the caution in yellow describes - how to tell what the proper orientation of the tap is. You basically want the Ignition-side of the fuse to pass through the top fuse and out that red wire to your new circuit. The way to tell if it's installed correctly is to install the tap, remove the TOP fuse, make sure the ignition circuit is ON, and see if you measure ~12V from the top-left slot. If you do, then the tap is installed correctly. If you don't measure any voltage, turn the tap around and try again. Once you measure voltage on the top-left slot, re-install the fuse and continue. Word of caution: Make sure you add up the maximum current all of the loads you're adding could potentially pull. For example, my Dashcam pulls ~400mA, and my Radar detector pulls about 1.4A max. Total is just under 2A for my application, so I used a 5A fuse in addition to in-line fuses that were included with each of my hardwire cables. Those fuses will pop first if something bad happens to either device, so the one in the Volvo's fuse box is just a "last resort". After trying to get behind that carpet, I NEVER want to have to go back in there!! Blehhh!
      Do you happen to know if the top or bottom pin is the ignition side? I just had the fuse in the lower slot blow and it caused both my Blackvue battery and my seat heater (the circuit I'm tapped into) to not work. The fuse in the top slot did not blow, but it's still not providing power to the Blackvue battery. This leads me to believe I have the FuseTap flipped upside down. Please see attached and let me know if this is correcte or if I need to flip it. The 20A fuse is for the Blackvue battery and the 15A is the original one for the passenger seat heater. Thanks.
      2018 XC90 Inscription / Air Suspension / B & W / 21" OEM Wheels

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