Volvo XC90 & S80 V8 - How-To: Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys Replacement
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    1. #1
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Post Volvo XC90 & S80 V8 - How-To: Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys Replacement

      Volvo XC90 & S80 V8 - How-To: Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys Replacement

      Parts:
      Volvo Drive Belt Idler Pulley - 31216198 - Qty. 2
      Volvo Automatic Belt Tensioner Assembly - 31216199 - Qty. 1 (Comes with Tension Holder In-Place)
      Volvo Serpentine Belt - 8653617 - Qty. 1




      Tools:
      Serpentine Belt Tool (Two Piece with 3/8" & 1/2" Drive)
      T30 Torx
      8mm, 10mm Sockets
      Shallow 12mm, 14mm Sockets - 3/8" Drive
      Shallow 19mm (12 pt) Socket - 1/2" Drive (6 Pt is preferred, but 12 Pt made it easier to line up how I wanted it)
      12mm, 14mm Wrench
      5/16" ID Hose & Plug
      10mm Long Arm Allen Wrench and/or 10mm Allen Stub Socket (May Need to Cut 1/4" - 1/2" Off End) - I used a Husky brand wrench Model # HLAHKM13PC from Home Depot and did not have to cut it
      Pipe, Large Adjustable Wrench, Long Handled Pliers, etc (Something to Leverage Allen Wrench)


      ^^^Thanks for the pic PAX5

      Process:
      Remove Front Engine Cover
      Unclip Power Steering Reservoir from Coolant Reservoir for Better Access
      Pop Off Passenger Side of Rear Engine Cover
      Remove Top Passenger Side Engine Cover by Removing Two T30 Screws



      Disconnect 5/16" ID Coolant Line from Block - Plug Block (I would stuff a lot of shop towels under nipple before pulling coolant line.)
      Disconnect Ground Strap with 12mm (or maybe 10mm)
      Remove 8mm Bolt Holding Power Steering Line to Block
      Remove 10mm Bolt Holding A/C Line to Frame (Optional: Helps when removing top idler pulley bolt)



      Unclip A/C Line from Power Steering Line for Better Access
      Remove 10mm Nut Holding Power Steering Line Bracket to Tensioner



      Connect 19mm (or 3/4") Shallow Socket onto 1/2" Drive Section of Serpentine Belt Tool
      Place 19mm Socket onto 19mm Stub of Tensioner
      Connect 3/8" Drive Section of Serpentine Belt Tool to 1/2" Drive Section of Serpentine Belt Tool in Dog-Leg Arrangement (Keep in mind you want to generate a downward and maybe slightly rearward force on the tensioner - My 1/2" Drive section was nearly horizontal)



      Slowly and Steadily Apply Pressure (Towards Front of XC) to Serpentine Belt Tool with your Right Hand - It does not require major muscle. Just steady pressure over the course of 45 - 60 seconds.
      As the Tensioner Gives Way, use your Left Hand to Reach Serpentine Belt on Top Idler Pulley and Pull It Off - Release Tension Slowly



      Now, Begin Removing Parts for Replacement:
      Remove Top Idler Pulley and Engine Hoist Bracket (14mm) - Don't Lose the Washer from the Pulley
      Remove Lower Idler Pulley (12mm) - Don't Lose the Washer from the Pulley
      Remove Tensioner:
      Place 10mm Allen Wrench into Tensioner Bolt (Keep the Arm Accessible for Applying Leverage)
      Use Chosen Device to Leverage Allen Wrench Loosening Tensioner Bolt (Do NOT Slip Off Wrench and Do Damage)
      Once Tensioner Bolt's Initial Hold is Loosed, then Begin Trying to Remove Bolt
      I was able to slip the Allen wrench into the tensioner bolt by holding the wrench horizontally and wiggling it into the bolt. I could then get a quarter turn on the bolt and then finagle the wrench back out and repeat the process until you are able to remove the bolt by hand. It doesn't take many turns before you can remove it by hand. If you've cut the wrench, it may be easier to do this. I was able to do it without the cut. (User "sebvox" was able to use a 1/2" chunk of the Allen wrench and a ratcheting box wrench for this step. That might be easier!)
      Remove Top Bolt Holding Tensioner to Block (12mm Open Wrench)
      Remove Serpentine Belt (If the belt is annoying you along the way, you can completely remove the tensioner before the idlers.)
      You should now have all of the parts removed from the block which you're planning to replace.



      Re-installation:
      I started by verifying that my new belt matched my old belt.
      Route New Belt Around the Toothed Pulleys.
      Install Tensioner
      Install Idler Pulleys
      Finalize & Verify Belt Routing Leaving Top Idler Pulley for Last
      Remove Tension from Tensioner (Same Method as Above)
      While Holding Back Tension, Slip Belt Over Top Idler Pulley
      Slowly Release Tensioner
      Verify Routing and Mating of Belt



      Once ABSOLUTELY SURE Belt is Routed Correctly, Remove Tension from Tensioner and Remove Factory Installed Tension Holder from Tensioner with Pliers or Screwdriver
      Replace and reinstall all other parts, bolts, and connections in reverse of sequence above.


      Thanks to these posts:
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-for-tensioner
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...806&viewfull=1
      And on a personal note, thank you PAX5 very much for the technical guidance, support and encouragement to keep going despite the ridiculous heat today.
      Last edited by R-Pow3R3d; 11-08-2017 at 09:39 PM.
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

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    3. #2
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      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      ...
      And on a personal note, thank you PAX5 very much for the technical guidance, support and encouragement to keep going despite the ridiculous heat today.
      Your welcome!

      You did this in about half the time it took me.
      2009 XC90 V8 R-Design

    4. #3
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      This pic is missing from above:

      2009 XC90 V8 R-Design

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    6. #4
      Junior Member Kyril's Avatar
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      Great write up. Perfect timing as I'll be doing this soon!

    7. #5
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by PAX5 View Post
      This pic is missing from above:
      It's because of the way Google handles their image hosting. I rehosted the image on postimg and included it in the post above so it should now stay there "forever".
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

    8. #6
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      Hi All,

      Another successful serpentine belt job completed thanks to the above. Can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

      A few (very slight) modifications to the above, if I may?

      1.) after "Remove 10mm Nut Holding Power Steering Line Bracket to Tensioner", I went ahead and removed the power steering line bracket all together. It's just one additional nut, very easy to get on/off and adds a fair bit more wiggle room.
      2.) for the 5/16" coolant line removal, I used the below parts to plug. The green "caps" are 5/16 "screw protectors" from home depot. Found in one of the hardware drawers next to the grade 8 bolts, etc. Fit like a glove...one paper towel was all I needed! The black cone is a plug out of the mighty-max vac/hand pump kit.

      FOR SALE - 2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, Snabb Intake & Turbo Pipe, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
      SOLD - 2007 XC90 V8 Sport - IPD Sways/Subframe Inserts/Strut Bar Conversion, Stoptech Rotors

    9. #7
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorthwestMoose View Post
      Hi All,

      Another successful serpentine belt job completed thanks to the above. Can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

      A few (very slight) modifications to the above, if I may?

      1.) after "Remove 10mm Nut Holding Power Steering Line Bracket to Tensioner", I went ahead and removed the power steering line bracket all together. It's just one additional nut, very easy to get on/off and adds a fair bit more wiggle room.
      2.) for the 5/16" coolant line removal, I used the below parts to plug. The green "caps" are 5/16 "screw protectors" from home depot. Found in one of the hardware drawers next to the grade 8 bolts, etc. Fit like a glove...one paper towel was all I needed! The black cone is a plug out of the mighty-max vac/hand pump kit.
      Advice welcome!

      So for that bracket, is it the nut that is just on the left side of my photo?


      As for the plug, definitely don't do what I did. It was trash and leaked everywhere. PAX5 recommended shoving a bolt into the tubing that I used, then melting the tubing onto the bolt with a flame. That would definitely have been better than what I did!
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

    10. #8
      Junior Member Kyril's Avatar
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      Well I was going to do this job, but the power steering pump decided to give up the ghost.

      So as much as I would have loved to do that job, I just didn't have the time to properly put the attention to it, given it requires e manifold to come off I'm pretty time poor these days.

      So I took it down to my local trusted hydraulic service shop and got them to replace the pump , drivebelt, tensioner, idler pullies and also flush the transmission while they were at it.

      It will be in the shop for the next couple of days while they wait for the part to arrive.

      I've been quoted around $1900 (AUD) for the lot, which considering the pump itself costs 1200 alone over here (not fitted) i think that is pretty reasonable. I did supply the parts for the drive belt etc though as I had them already.

    11. #9
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      Correct, R Powered, its the nut right in the u-bend of the power steering line. At first I thought it was somehow keeping the power steering line together, but all that bolt does is attach the two halfs of the bracket that holds the PS line to the front of the tensioner.
      FOR SALE - 2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, Snabb Intake & Turbo Pipe, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
      SOLD - 2007 XC90 V8 Sport - IPD Sways/Subframe Inserts/Strut Bar Conversion, Stoptech Rotors

    12. #10
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorthwestMoose View Post
      Correct, R Powered, its the nut right in the u-bend of the power steering line. At first I thought it was somehow keeping the power steering line together, but all that bolt does is attach the two halfs of the bracket that holds the PS line to the front of the tensioner.
      Any recollection of what size nut that one was?
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

    13. #11
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      80% sure it was also 10mm, I can check sometime this week and reply.
      FOR SALE - 2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, Snabb Intake & Turbo Pipe, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
      SOLD - 2007 XC90 V8 Sport - IPD Sways/Subframe Inserts/Strut Bar Conversion, Stoptech Rotors

    14. #12
      Junior Member caliwagon's Avatar
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      Also, for what it's worth the idler pulley on the tensioner can be replaced (same part number as the other two). Confirmed by my dealer and my experience. Could be helpful if that pulley is worn but you don't want to replace the whole tensioner. The nut is reverse thread.
      Last edited by caliwagon; 06-08-2017 at 05:08 PM.
      2007 XC90 V8
      2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon LJ 6-speed
      1993 Dodge Viper RT/10
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    15. #13
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      For those considering doing just rollers, guy by the name of OrleeC (see link https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...=1#post4096617) may be able to replace just the bearings.

      Will be good to keep the link above handy, as for a number of V8 owners the valve cover gasket job will be coming up.
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 198k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 127k

    16. #14

      Additional notes for Volvo S80 (2007)

      Thanks for the pics and notes! A couple of extra items for any poor soul doing this work on an S80:



      First, on my vehicle the lower pulley bolt could not be removed as the hole drilled in the side of the engine compartment was both offset and too small - good work Volvo!. Fix was to jack up the engine to get the alignment and use a hand file on the flange of the bolt so it would slip through.



      Second, the engine mount is actually too close to the crankshaft pulley to allow the bolt to slip out! Fix again involved jacking up the engine after removing the four bolts for the engine mount.

      Note to Volvo packaging engineers: Don't let me find you.

    17. #15
      Junior Member sebvox's Avatar
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      Great How-To write up.

      One comment: if you are going to replace the belt, why not just cut it off? Then you don't have to worry about breaking the tensioner or buying the tool. The new tensioner comes pre-compressed.

      Just a thought.
      1971 164E
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    18. #16
      Member V50R's Avatar
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      Just did this to my 2008 over the weekend and its not as easy as it may seem by reading it.

      It required quite a few tools and manuvering of brackets and hoses around to free up the old belt.

      All and all took about 1hr to complete and I had to replace all 3 pulleys. They all had play in it.

      There was no audible noise from them however the bolt was worn out and they did squeak on cold start up.
      2010 XC90 V8 Executive R-Design Exhaust (MINE)
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      2008 XC90 V8 Executive Edition, NAV, DVDs, 152k, STOCk (DADS)
      2005 XC90 V8 Black, VB replaced, (SIBLINGs) S60R Brake Swaped
      2007 XC90 V8 Dark Grey BASE MODEL 85k STOCK
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    19. #17
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sebvox View Post
      Great How-To write up.

      One comment: if you are going to replace the belt, why not just cut it off? Then you don't have to worry about breaking the tensioner or buying the tool. The new tensioner comes pre-compressed.

      Just a thought.
      You still need to hold the tension off the tensioner to get the spring holder off, so I don't think it gets you out of buying the tool. I liked having the belt whole so I could transfer my marks from the old belt to the new belt. You might be able to cut it. It would certainly make it easier to remove.


      Quote Originally Posted by V50R View Post
      Just did this to my 2008 over the weekend and its not as easy as it may seem by reading it.

      It required quite a few tools and manuvering of brackets and hoses around to free up the old belt.

      All and all took about 1hr to complete and I had to replace all 3 pulleys. They all had play in it.

      There was no audible noise from them however the bolt was worn out and they did squeak on cold start up.
      If you did it in an hour, you did it A LOT faster than I did. LOL
      Last edited by R-Pow3R3d; 11-06-2017 at 02:19 PM.
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

    20. #18
      Member V50R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      If you did it in an hour, you did it A LOT faster than I did. LOL
      Tons of tools, lift and air did the help, plus it was 2 people working on it, so it was a lot faster. But it sure seemed impossible at the start of it as its a clusterf**k of rubes, hoses, ground straps, bracekts... you name it.
      2010 XC90 V8 Executive R-Design Exhaust (MINE)
      2008 XC90 V8 Executive Edition, fully loaded, 177k, STOCK (MOMS)
      2008 XC90 V8 Executive Edition, NAV, DVDs, 152k, STOCk (DADS)
      2005 XC90 V8 Black, VB replaced, (SIBLINGs) S60R Brake Swaped
      2007 XC90 V8 Dark Grey BASE MODEL 85k STOCK
      2013 GOLF Sportwagen GTD 6spd. Malone S2+ tuned 192fwhp/343fwtq.
      2013 Audi A4 Quattro. APR S2, DP, IC, E85 Tune 330hp/410tq.
      SOLD:: 2006 V50 T5 AWD AW55, 320mm FR Brake upgrade, Elevate Intake, OBX Exhaust_

    21. #19
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by V50R View Post
      Tons of tools, lift and air did the help, plus it was 2 people working on it, so it was a lot faster. But it sure seemed impossible at the start of it as its a clusterf**k of rubes, hoses, ground straps, bracekts... you name it.
      Absolutely. For me, the biggest hurdle was the tensioner bolt which the body made almost impossible to remove. That took a LONG time to finally get out and I had similar trouble getting it back in. I was talking to PAX on the phone while doing it and I wasn't sure it was going to be possible. lol
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

    22. #20
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      150k mike belt original. Didn’t look worn out but it did squeak when it was cold on start up and that could have been from the pulleys too.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2010 XC90 V8 Executive R-Design Exhaust (MINE)
      2008 XC90 V8 Executive Edition, fully loaded, 177k, STOCK (MOMS)
      2008 XC90 V8 Executive Edition, NAV, DVDs, 152k, STOCk (DADS)
      2005 XC90 V8 Black, VB replaced, (SIBLINGs) S60R Brake Swaped
      2007 XC90 V8 Dark Grey BASE MODEL 85k STOCK
      2013 GOLF Sportwagen GTD 6spd. Malone S2+ tuned 192fwhp/343fwtq.
      2013 Audi A4 Quattro. APR S2, DP, IC, E85 Tune 330hp/410tq.
      SOLD:: 2006 V50 T5 AWD AW55, 320mm FR Brake upgrade, Elevate Intake, OBX Exhaust_

    23. #21
      Member V50R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      Absolutely. For me, the biggest hurdle was the tensioner bolt which the body made almost impossible to remove. That took a LONG time to finally get out and I had similar trouble getting it back in. I was talking to PAX on the phone while doing it and I wasn't sure it was going to be possible. lol
      We did not remove the tensioner, only the bolts for the idler pulleys. I also noticed the tensioner was tight but did not appear to be hydraulic like everyone else says. It was just spring loaded with a heavy heavy spring.
      2010 XC90 V8 Executive R-Design Exhaust (MINE)
      2008 XC90 V8 Executive Edition, fully loaded, 177k, STOCK (MOMS)
      2008 XC90 V8 Executive Edition, NAV, DVDs, 152k, STOCk (DADS)
      2005 XC90 V8 Black, VB replaced, (SIBLINGs) S60R Brake Swaped
      2007 XC90 V8 Dark Grey BASE MODEL 85k STOCK
      2013 GOLF Sportwagen GTD 6spd. Malone S2+ tuned 192fwhp/343fwtq.
      2013 Audi A4 Quattro. APR S2, DP, IC, E85 Tune 330hp/410tq.
      SOLD:: 2006 V50 T5 AWD AW55, 320mm FR Brake upgrade, Elevate Intake, OBX Exhaust_

    24. #22
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by V50R View Post
      We did not remove the tensioner, only the bolts for the idler pulleys. I also noticed the tensioner was tight but did not appear to be hydraulic like everyone else says. It was just spring loaded with a heavy heavy spring.
      I'm not sure what's inside the spring (you can see in my picture above). It doesn't feel like just a spring when you are taking tension off of it.
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

    25. #23
      Member V50R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      I'm not sure what's inside the spring (you can see in my picture above). It doesn't feel like just a spring when you are taking tension off of it.
      I didnt get a good look at it but to me its more of a damper than anything else. Kind of like a shock absorber and a spring to keep vibrations out of the pulley.

      https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9121...er-s80-xc90-v8





      I think the steel case we see around it is to keep the spring in tension until its installed and ready to be released.
      2010 XC90 V8 Executive R-Design Exhaust (MINE)
      2008 XC90 V8 Executive Edition, fully loaded, 177k, STOCK (MOMS)
      2008 XC90 V8 Executive Edition, NAV, DVDs, 152k, STOCk (DADS)
      2005 XC90 V8 Black, VB replaced, (SIBLINGs) S60R Brake Swaped
      2007 XC90 V8 Dark Grey BASE MODEL 85k STOCK
      2013 GOLF Sportwagen GTD 6spd. Malone S2+ tuned 192fwhp/343fwtq.
      2013 Audi A4 Quattro. APR S2, DP, IC, E85 Tune 330hp/410tq.
      SOLD:: 2006 V50 T5 AWD AW55, 320mm FR Brake upgrade, Elevate Intake, OBX Exhaust_

    26. #24
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by V50R View Post
      I didnt get a good look at it but to me its more of a damper than anything else. Kind of like a shock absorber and a spring to keep vibrations out of the pulley.

      I think the steel case we see around it is to keep the spring in tension until its installed and ready to be released.
      Yeah, that's just the spring holder. Here, you can see inside it a little better:
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    27. #25
      Member V50R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      Yeah, that's just the spring holder. Here, you can see inside it a little better:
      So in essense these are not hydraulic tensioners and they can ben treated as non crytical. I know I read somewhere that a few that tried had snapped off the 19mm head that is used to pre-tension the tensioner.

      Interesting, I learn new stuff about this damn SUV every friggin day!
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    28. #26
      Junior Member sebvox's Avatar
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      Did the job last night with great success due to the write up! I replaced the tensioner and pulley, both idler pulleys, and the serpentine belt. I did it by myself and took about 4 hours and several bloody knuckles.

      I have a couple comments/tips to add:

      The bolt holding the grounding strap is a 10mm.
      The second bolt on the PS/tensioner bracket is indeed a 10mm.
      After using the 10mm Allen wrench to break the tensioner bolt loose, it was impossible to loosen by hand. So I cut a 1/2" length off of the Allen wrench (long end) and inserted it into the bolt, then attached a 10mm ratcheting box wrench on the other and removed the tensioner bolt with great ease. This was much easier than having to finagle the Allen wrench in and out at each quarter turn. Plus it provided amply clearance between the frame and tensioner.
      I used the serpentine belt tool to remove the two idler pulleys. Since the tool has a fixed drive and doesn't ratchet, I found that a 12 point socket worked best.
      I also substituted a 3/4" socket instead of the 19mm socket at the tensioner. Same size.
      To put the new serpentine belt on, I jacked up the passenger's side, removed the front wheel and removed the plastic 10mm nuts holding the well covers on, making the lower pulleys all accessible.
      Remember when putting the washers back on the pulleys that the concave side faces away from the bearings or the pulley will not spin freely.

      Thanks R-Powered.
      Last edited by sebvox; 11-08-2017 at 05:06 PM.
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    29. #27
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sebvox View Post
      Did the job last night with great success due to the write up! I replaced the tensioner and pulley, both idler pulleys, and the serpentine belt. I did it by myself and took about 4 hours and several bloody knuckles.

      I have a couple comments/tips to add:

      The bolt holding the grounding strap is a 10mm.
      The second bolt on the PS/tensioner bracket is indeed a 10mm.
      After using the 10mm Allen wrench to break the tensioner bolt loose, it was impossible to loosen by hand. So I cut a 1/2" length off of the Allen wrench (long end) and inserted it into the bolt, then attached a 10mm ratcheting box wrench on the other and removed the tensioner bolt with great ease. This was much easier than having to finagle the Allen wrench in and out at each quarter turn. Plus it provided amply clearance between the frame and tensioner.
      I used the serpentine belt tool to remove the two idler pulleys. Since the tool has a fixed drive and doesn't ratchet, I found that a 12 point socket worked best.
      I also substituted a 3/4" socket instead of the 19mm socket at the tensioner. Same size.
      To put the new serpentine belt on, I jacked up the passenger's side, removed the front wheel and removed the plastic 10mm nuts holding the well covers on, making the lower pulleys all accessible.
      Remember when putting the washers back on the pulleys that the concave side faces away from the bearings or the pulley will not spin freely.

      Thanks R-Powered.
      I'm glad it was helpful and I definitely had busted knuckles, too! You also added some really great notes which I think I'll try and incorporate. In looking back, I used a 12 pt socket on the tensioner tool, but the friend who provided that photo from their doing the job obviously used a 6 pt. I would recommend the 12 pt for that application since it is so difficult to get the socket lined up otherwise. A ratcheting box wrench would have been a much better solution for the tensioner bolt. Great thinking!
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    30. #28
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      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      ... but the friend who provided that photo from their doing the job obviously used a 6 pt. I would recommend the 12 pt for that application since it is so difficult to get the socket lined up otherwise. A ratcheting box wrench would have been a much better solution for the tensioner bolt ...
      A six-point socket is much less likely to slip off or round over the corners. Here’s why:

      (1) Six-point sockets have thicker walls, so they’re less likely to flex.
      (2) A six-point socket is designed to contact the head of a fastener well away from the corners so contact is made on the thickest part of the socket and the flattest part of the fastener. This dramatically reduces the likelihood of slippage and rounding over the corners. And
      (3), the edges of a socket are angled back a few degrees to allow the socket to slide easily over a fastener. The angle is less on a six-point socket than on its 12-point counterpart, again providing more contact area inside the socket.

      The 6 point "nut" on the tensioner is strictly to compress the tensioner spring. Volvo instructions are to hold ... after applying pressure on the spring. This is when a 12 point could slip. There are many account of it rounding off. Once this happens, it becomes orders of magnitude more difficult to compress the tensioner ....

      For this reason I do not recommend a 12 point socket.

      And since a 3/4 inch socket is just slightly larger than a 19mm socket I also do not recommend a 3/4 inch socket for this particular application.
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    31. #29
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by PAX5 View Post
      A six-point socket is much less likely to slip off or round over the corners. Here’s why:

      (1) Six-point sockets have thicker walls, so they’re less likely to flex.
      (2) A six-point socket is designed to contact the head of a fastener well away from the corners so contact is made on the thickest part of the socket and the flattest part of the fastener. This dramatically reduces the likelihood of slippage and rounding over the corners. And
      (3), the edges of a socket are angled back a few degrees to allow the socket to slide easily over a fastener. The angle is less on a six-point socket than on its 12-point counterpart, again providing more contact area inside the socket.

      The 6 point "nut" on the tensioner is strictly to compress the tensioner spring. Volvo instructions are to hold ... after applying pressure on the spring. This is when a 12 point could slip. There are many account of it rounding off. Once this happens, it becomes orders of magnitude more difficult to compress the tensioner ....

      For this reason I do not recommend a 12 point socket.

      And since a 3/4 inch socket is just slightly larger than a 19mm socket I also do not recommend a 3/4 inch socket for this particular application.
      Those are very valid points. I've edited to show 6 point as the ideal tool. I used 12 point because I couldn't get a 6 point to be positioned properly.
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      Not sure if its mentioned anywhere as I only scanned this thread (needed some refresher pics before checking the pulley bearings--thanks for good pictures), but you absolutely can change just the idler bearings. I used SKF 6203 2ZJ, available at Napa, amazon, etc. 6203 is the size, 2Z is metal shields on both sides, you could also use 2RS, those are the rubber shielded ones. Just FYI to round out the info in case future DIY people would like to just press out the old since nothing really goes wrong with the pulleys themsleves.
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    33. #31
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      Dealer quoted $265 labor to do the belt and tensioners. Service advisor said to just replace the idler, not the whole tensioner. Three idlers, belt, and front motor mount are about $320 shipped from Tasca.

      Did you have to remove the motor mount? It's another $120 to change the motor mount which is what was making the noise I brought it in for.

      It's the 07 S80 V8, not the XC90 V8. 102k miles. Front end was groaning by shifting the weight of the chassis.

      Thanks
      Sincerely,
      Tom
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    34. #32
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      Same problem with the bolt hole on the side of the engine compartment not lining up to be able to get the lower pulley bolt out 2007 S80 and also not being able to get the belt under the crankshaft pulley without lifting the engine. So for doing the belt on an S80 these instructions are more than somewhat lacking and will give a false sense of this being an easily peasy job.
      Last edited by Thommykent; 11-11-2018 at 08:08 PM.

    35. #33
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      Quote Originally Posted by V50R View Post
      So in essense these are not hydraulic tensioners and they can ben treated as non crytical. I know I read somewhere that a few that tried had snapped off the 19mm head that is used to pre-tension the tensioner.

      Interesting, I learn new stuff about this damn SUV every friggin day!
      The tensioner does have a hydraulic piston in it as you will see oil trails from one that has failed and is why it needs gentle persuasion to move as the hydraulic fluid needs time to move through it`s orifice

    36. #34
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      Quote Originally Posted by 377Z View Post
      Not sure if its mentioned anywhere as I only scanned this thread (needed some refresher pics before checking the pulley bearings--thanks for good pictures), but you absolutely can change just the idler bearings. I used SKF 6203 2ZJ, available at Napa, amazon, etc. 6203 is the size, 2Z is metal shields on both sides, you could also use 2RS, those are the rubber shielded ones. Just FYI to round out the info in case future DIY people would like to just press out the old since nothing really goes wrong with the pulleys themsleves.
      That`s what I did, $8 a bearing instead of $45 a pulley

    37. #35
      Member RedGeminiPA's Avatar
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      I bought 3 of the 62032RS bearings to have them pressed in for the ‘08 when I did the alternator and belt. They were less than $4 each.
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