Volvo XC90 & S80 V8 - Spark Plug Replacement
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    1. #1
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Post Volvo XC90 & S80 V8 - Spark Plug Replacement

      Decided to do the spark plug service which the factory calls for having done at 75k miles. The XC is at 86k miles now and it's been eating at me that I need to do the job. Well, the time has come. The job proved to be relatively easy. Like most things with the V8, it seems access is the biggest hurdle for maintenance work. The front bank of plugs couldn't have been easier. The back is easy, but you're doing lots of reaching and you can only kind of see what you're doing. The front bank can be done standing in front of the XC. The rear bank must be done from the side of the XC. I did the rear three nearest the passenger's side from the passenger's side and the one nearest the driver's side from the driver's side. I would recommend starting this job with the front bank so that you'll be comfortable with the process by the time you do the rear bank.

      Parts:
      Volvo Spark Plugs (Qty. 8) for 8 Cyl B8444S - 30731383 - Qty. 1 (Or your favorite spark plug manufacturer's equivalent)

      Tools:
      10mm Socket (I used 1/4" Drive with Medium and Long Extensions)
      13mm, 18mm Sockets (I used 1/2" Drive sometimes with a Long Extension)
      14mm Deep Socket (I used 1/2" Drive sometimes with a Long Extension)
      3/4" Spark Plug Socket with Rubber or Magnetic Retainer (Mine is 3/8" Drive)
      Torque Wrench (Same Drive as Spark Plug Socket)
      Spark Plug Gapper
      Small/Thin Flathead Screwdriver
      Medium Flathead Screwdriver
      Anti-Seize Paste
      Air Compressor with Blower Gun

      Process:
      Remove Upper Engine Brace Bar (18mm Engine Mount Bolt & Four 13mm Bracket Bolts)



      Remove Front and Rear Engine Covers by Pulling Upwards on Them - They Pop Off Easily Enough
      Use Compressor to Blow Dust/Dirt Off Block Around Front and Rear Coils


      Front Bank
      Remove Two 14mm Bolts to Allow Movement of Wiring
      Disconnect Electrical Connectors from Coils (I used two screwdrivers to accomplish this. I used the small screwdriver in one hand to prop up the clip and the medium screwdriver in the other hand to back the plug off the coil. Once I figured out one, the rest were easy.)


      Remove the 10mm Bolt Holding the First Coil
      Remove the Coil and Clean It with a Rag (Watch that the seal does not stick to the block. If so, remove it from the block and install it back on the coil. All but one seal stayed on the coil but most had the seal partially out of place. The seal can be put back into place by lightly pulling away from coil shaft and then spinning the seal to get it set back on the ring.)
      Use Spark Plug Socket to Back Out Spark Plug a Few Turns
      Use Compressor to Blow Out Dust/Dirt from Cylinder Before Completely Removing Plug (Absolutely critical in front bank! All four front cylinders had a fair amount of dust blow out, presumably from their exposure to the elements at the front of the engine. The rear bank had almost nothing blow out.)


      Prepare New Spark Plug by Applying Light Coat of Anti-Seize to Threads (Do not get any anti-seize on sparking area of plug.)
      Remove Old Plug


      Install New Plug (Place new plug in spark plug socket, insert into cylinder, turn backwards until plug is seated correctly, tighten plug by hand to verify correct mating of threads, and then finish tightening by hand or with ratchet.)
      Torque New Plug to 18 or 22 ft-lbs**
      Reinstall Cleaned Coil
      Install 10mm Bolt (I placed my finger next to the plug end of the coil to keep the coil centered in the valley.)
      Repeat Process on Remaining Three Coils/Plugs
      Reinstall Electrical Connectors to Coils
      Reinstall Two 14mm Bolts

      Rear Bank
      Remove Two 10mm and Two 14mm Bolts to Allow Movement of Wiring
      Pull Two Hoses/Lines Out of Brackets to Allow Movement of Wiring
      Disconnect Electrical Connectors from Coils (Same Method as Above)


      Remove the 10mm Bolt Holding the First Coil
      Remove the Coil and Clean It with a Rag
      Use Spark Plug Socket to Back Out Spark Plug a Few Turns


      Use Compressor to Blow Out Dust/Dirt from Cylinder Before Completely Removing Plug
      Prepare New Spark Plug by Applying Light Coat of Anti-Seize to Threads
      Remove Old Plug
      Install New Plug
      Torque New Plug to 18 or 22 ft-lbs**
      Reinstall Cleaned Coil
      Install 10mm Bolt
      Repeat Process on Remaining Three Coils/Plugs
      Reinstall Electrical Connectors to Coils
      Reinstall Two 10mm and Two 14mm Bolts

      Finishing Up
      Reinstall Front and Rear Engine Covers
      Reinstall Upper Engine Brace Bar (18mm Engine Mount Bolt & Four 13mm Bracket Bolts)

      **See discussion in posts below regarding mixed information from Volvo about proper Torque Spec. Make the decision you feel is right. In the end, you are just trying to apply a crush to the crush washer.
      Last edited by R-Pow3R3d; 08-20-2016 at 03:42 AM.
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

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    3. #2
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      I've said it once before: this has to be one of the CLEANEST engines I have EVER seen ... Must be a joy to work on.

      Does it make a discernible difference, or is this one of those things that just makes you "feel" good because it was done and according to Volvo's schedule?
      2009 XC90 V8 R-Design

    4. #3
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by PAX5 View Post
      I've said it once before: this has to be one of the CLEANEST engines I have EVER seen ... Must be a joy to work on.

      Does it make a discernible difference, or is this one of those things that just makes you "feel" good because it was done and according to Volvo's schedule?
      Thanks! My knees and back hurt now, so I don't know if I'd call it a joy But seriously, it's very nice.

      I would say it's more about feeling good knowing I'm up-to-date with the maintenance schedule, but I also don't drive the XC enough to know if it made a difference. After I finished the replacement I took it for a drive and it felt super strong, but it may have felt that way before.

      In looking at the removed plugs, I'm equal parts happy with the apparent condition of the engine and glad I've replaced the plugs. The plugs "read" that the engine is healthy and look like they were due for replacement.
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

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    6. #4
      Member Tommm's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      Use Compressor to Blow Out Dust/Dirt from Cylinder Before Completely Removing Plug
      Prepare New Spark Plug by Applying Light Coat of Anti-Seize to Threads
      Remove Old Plug
      Install New Plug
      Torque New Plug to 22 ft-lbs
      Reinstall Cleaned Coil
      Install 10mm Bolt
      Repeat Process on Remaining Three Coils/Plugs
      Reinstall Electrical Connectors to Coils
      Reinstall Two 10mm and Two 14mm Bolts

      Finishing Up
      Reinstall Front and Rear Engine Covers
      Reinstall Upper Engine Brace Bar (18mm Engine Mount Bolt & Four 13mm Bracket Bolts)
      I did the job a few weeks ago on my S80 and torqued to 22ft lb too. It felt too tight, but I gave it the nudge. You did the right thing by stopping at 18. The Volvo workshop manual says 25nm which is 18fl lbs.
      http://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/s8...ons/page_3435/

      Compare that Volvo publication to this Volvo publication - the owners manual
      http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/...0_10.htm#pg180
      Last edited by Tommm; 08-19-2016 at 06:37 PM.
      Sincerely,
      Tom
      08 XC90 V8 - Hers
      07 S80 V8 - Shared

    7. #5
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tommm View Post
      I did the job a few weeks ago on my S80 and torqued to 22ft lb too. It felt too tight, but I gave it the nudge. You did the right thing by stopping at 18. The Volvo workshop manual says 25nm which is 18fl lbs.
      http://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/s8...ons/page_3435/

      Compare that Volvo publication to this Volvo publication - the owners manual
      http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/...0_10.htm#pg180
      To add to the confusion, I just looked into VIDA and it also says 25 Nm. I'm going to change my instructions to reflect both sources. Now, the question is, are one of them the "dry" torque and one of them the torque with anti-seize? I could possibly see that being the case, but of course Volvo makes no mention of whether they should be installed dry or not.

      Slightly related, E3 Spark Plugs says 18-22 ft-lb for our size spark plug:


      NGK says if you are using anti-seize on the threads you should reduce torque by 30%:
      https://www.ngk.com/learning-center/...orque-settings
      That means 18 ft-lb should be 12.6 ft-lb with anti-seize and 22 ft-lb should be 15.4 ft-lb with anti-seize.

      I guess you can make what you want out of all of this.
      Last edited by R-Pow3R3d; 08-20-2016 at 03:38 AM.
      2004 V70R MT TiGray/Nordkap - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
      1990 745 Turbo Intercooler White/Beige
      2006 XC70
      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 1999 F250 Powerstroke, 2005 TSX, 1997 Bonneville, 1998 Concorde

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