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Venetian Red 2000 V70R AWD Being Brought Back!

80K views 708 replies 62 participants last post by  CYB3RBYTE 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello All,

Usually I am posting on the 2016 XC90 Forum, but I think I will be more heavily involved here for a while.

I just bought a Veneitian Red with black, 2000 V70R. In 1998, I had a new, black V70R AWD wagon, and loved it. This will be my project car.

It spent the first 8 years in California. Not a bit of rust or undercarriage damage. No accidents.
The last 10 years it was owned by the owner of an Auto Service Shop, who showed it the love it needed. Timing belt replacement, synthetic oil change every 5K, coolant flushes, new camshaft seals, lots of other service.... HE sold it in pristine condition only because of personal health issues unrelated to the car.

The bad news is the last 8 months it was abused in some fashion, prior to being repossessed by the used car dealer. It now drives like a box of rocks without a steering wheel. According to both the local Volvo shop who did a pre purchase inspection (and the previous owner who is going to do the work for me (a Master Automotive Mechanic) it needs:

  • Replace both Lower Control Arms and Ball Joints
  • Remove and Replace Drive Shaft

    Ooch!

    Plus a bit of maintenenace:
  • Remove and Replace Upper Radiator Hose
  • Replace Cabin Air Filter
  • Replace Engine Air Filter

I am also going to Install Extreme Contact DWS Tires and do an alignment

I got it cheap as it was repossessed and I had the evidence of $3K in needed repairs. I expect it to be a great driver after this work is done. Alcantera interior needs some work, but all electrical, audio, and mechanical work fine.

The dent doctor is next, with a serious interior and exterior detail.

I'll be posting pics when I get it back with the necessary drivability improvements!

I may need some help along the way! I appreciate the info you guys share!

Fred
 
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#2 ·
Nice find. Thats not too big of a list to tackle. I highly recommend replacing the angle gear collar sleeve while you're working on the front end (passenger axle comes out to remove the angle gear) because the 2000 R uses a special one off version of the p80 angle gear to bolt to one off aw55 transmission. If that $100 collar fails and it will eventually it usually takes out the splines on the angle gear. Last list price for that angle gear was like $1860. not an impossible job at all but smart preventative maintenance.
 
#10 ·
Subscribed! This is gonna be a fun thread.

Are you actually going to be driving this thing in snow? If not, I'd look at options other than DWS. There are better options if you don't need the snow capabilities.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Well, my XC90 does the heavy duty snow traveling, especially since we have a house in Winter Park Colorado, which gets 365 inches of snow per year. But this car as well will have to handle at a minimum the light snow of Kansas City, since it will likely serve as my daily driver to cart my German shepherd to the dog park. I am thinking of resurrecting an older vanity plate: K9CR8T!

So, the DWS seemed a pretty good compromise. They are a bit soft compared to some performance tires, but I really like them for daily drivers.

2016 Magic Blue XC90 Inscription
2000 Venetian Red V70 R
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#12 ·
DWSs are great in up to 3-4" of snow during the first 15K miles of their life
 
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#13 · (Edited)
So, here is the update on the V70R to date. A lot of progress to date!

Major mechanical repairs have been done so far.

* New drive shaft
* New left and right control arms

Other mechanical:
* New Conti DWS06 (205/50/R16)
* Remove and Replace Upper Radiator Hose
* Replace Cabin Air Filter
* Replace Engine Air Filter
* Synthetic LOF change with liquimoly friction reducer
* 4 wheel alignment

Regarding Exterior:
I spent the weekend renewing the paint finish. This involved a three step process over the whole car, after wet sanding a few deep scratch areas:
* Cyclo machined compound
* Cyclo machined Polish and Swirl remover
* Cyclo machined paint sealant
The finish looks really good, with the exception of minor road rash on the hood, and major issues with the front and rear bumpers.
So, I have an appt to have a local shop to:
* Remove
* Repair / Refinish
* Repaint
the front and rear bumpers. Cost $400 / bumper due to the amount of work to refinish (rather than just spray paint) them.

Regarding Hardware:
The car is at Volvo of Overland Park today to have the front door lock mechanism repaired. It may be as simple as the internal bar, but the lock cylinder does not work and the pull handle is loose and does not always spring back to closed position. Price TBD. They are also cutting a new key an programming an inoperable key FOB. This was an unwelcome surprise.

I have a broken door light widget on order from IPD or FCP.

Regarding Interior:
I have an appointment to have the front seats repaired while the car is at the paint shop.

A local interior upholstery shop is going to sew new black, hand diamond stitched Alcantera into the existing seat skins. Volvo dealer wanted
* $232 for 9190162-9 padding
* $91.60 for 30657279-1 seat heater pad
for a total of $352.46 to restore the padding. I thought this was too expensive, so the upholstery shop will do the best they can with cutting and wrapping high density foam where needed to bolster the seat sides and back. Cost $375 per seat, for a cost of $750 total for the front seat restore. The leather is still very good, and he will touch up any spots needing dye.

The plan is to restore the rear seat Alcantera with soft towels, soapy water, (or 70% water / 30% alcohol), and then slow circular sand with 2000 grit sandpaper to remove pills and imperfections.

A weathertec rear mat has arrived so the German Shepherd does not screw up the back hatch area. I was very pleased to see this car has the integrated cargo net to keep him from sloberring on the seat backs. Volvo Rubber R inscribed floor mats are on order.

I have lots of squeaks and rattles. Not sure what to do about that. I have put rubber tape and friction electrical tape around the rear seat latches and the rear door latch mechanism. That helped some. Any threads or ideas, especially where rattles from the rear plastic come from would be appreciated!

The most OCD dent guy around is going to remove door panel dings this weekend. Excited to see how it looks after that. I will post pictures. We decided to defer addressing dings on the hood, for now, because it requires removing the headliner, and I don't want to go down that path.... Many people would never notice the few dings on the roof....

I am considering what to do to replace a previously installed, and now old, double din DUAL DVD player. I don't want to pay more for the stereo upgrade than I did for the car. I need instructions how to pull it out, and I may just swap in a Kenwood with bluetooth streaming and phone. The owner was careful to power all speakers including the center channel, and I don't want to loose that functionality. But I don't want to spend much on sound.... unless it is new cat back...

The Vanity plate V70R is on order!

Its been fun! Looking forward to suggestions on the items underway!
 
#14 ·
Swap in the stock Dolby processor and sc901 it's really that good.

Sounds like you have a broken spring in the drivers door handle. Easy and cheap fix.

Key should be $253 with tax at worst and $23 for the fob programming.

You can get almost new front seats for $100 a set with patience fyi however your solution is expedient and will look very good. A sweater shaver works wonders on the alcantara.

Can't wait for pics of the rubber R mats I've never heard of those but they sound perfect.

Get a tailgate repair kit that's 95% your squeak source.

Nice plate idea.


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#15 ·
Thanks for the thoughts. A few comments

Swap in the stock Dolby processor and sc901 it's really that good.

A high priority is iPhone Bluetooth streaming and high quality phone.

How would I accomplish that and where could I source the sc901? I think the Dolby processor is still under front seat, or at least some amp is that is still wired in.

Sounds like you have a broken spring in the drivers door handle. Easy and cheap fix.

Boy I hope so. This may be the item that blows my budget.

Key should be $253 with tax at worst and $23 for the fob programming.

You can get almost new front seats for $100 a set with patience fyi however your solution is expedient and will look very good. A sweater shaver works wonders on the alcantara.

I have watched a few YouTube videos on this technique and have a few shaver options on hand. Read a really good post, presumably from the Alcantera factory on the sandpaper option. I will report back with pics when I do the job.

Can't wait for pics of the rubber R mats I've never heard of those but they sound perfect.

Get a tailgate repair kit that's 95% your squeak source.

On order from IPD. Sounded like a no brainer!

Nice plate idea.

Thanks for the responses!

Would you recommend the front anti-sway bar from IPD? I see they are only about $130. Would this materially effect handling with DWS tires?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2016 Magic Blue XC90 Inscription
2000 Venetian Red V70 R
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#23 · (Edited)
Today Joey, the best Car Medic in KS, came by and removed every dent in the V70R. The job he did is amazing!! Every panel is now perfectly free from dents!

While he did this, I took the opportunity to detail the back seats. This consisted of SONAX Alcantera cleaner, shaving pills with a Harry's razor, zymol leather conditioner, and cleaning the rear carpet. Here are a few pics of today's progress.

Before:






After






I also replaced the rear window lower trim and continued rear hatch paint refinish. Pics of the body to come soon, but I am very pleased with the outcome. Front an rear bumpers scheduled to be removed and refinished in two weeks. Front Alcantera skins to be replaced at this time. Liking the progress so far!

2016 Magic Blue XC90 Inscription
2000 Venetian Red V70 R
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#27 ·
Summarized from this link: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

Find a large flat surface with a wall.

Drive up to the wall as close as possible. Mark the top of the light's hot spot with tape.

Back the car up 25 feet, aim the same hot spot 2 inches lower than the previous spot. Make sure they are on center as well. Double check and repeat if they started way off.

That's basically it. I like to aim them so they drop less than 2 inches and slightly to the right to illuminate the sidewalk/signs. Nobody flashes me for brightness so I think I'm okay.

Also reach in the back hole and see if the reflector has unsnapped from its ball joint in shipping, it happens a lot. If so it'll be free to move when you touch it. The one that's aimed really high makes me suspect it.
 
#29 ·
My Drivers side hood release is not functioning properly. When pulling the release lever under the dash, the passenger side releases, but the drivers side stays latched. I need to try to raise the hood, pull again the hood release lever inside the car. The hood does not raise, but after the second pull I am allowed to raise t.he hood.

I cannot tell if this is a mechanical or electrical release mechanism. I see some part with wires attached to the hood latch under the hood. I assume this is a sensor for the hood release for safety reasons.

Any ideas on what typically fails on the hood release? I have a nightmare scenario that I cannot open my hood that I want to avoid!


2016 Magic Blue XC90 Inscription
2000 Venetian Red V70R
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#30 ·
It's mechanical. I have this problem with the pewter wagon. Changing the adjustment of the latch didn't make a difference. I swapped hoods briefly and it worked so I assume there may be a worn spot on the hood latch that interferes with the release. My solution is to usually put a boat shoe in the release lever and that allows it to be opened singlehandedly.




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#32 ·
IMy solution is to usually put a boat shoe in the release lever and that allows it to be opened singlehandedly.
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Not quite sure what this means!

BTW, I really appreciate all of the help you are giving me. I would not be able to bring back this car without it!

Tomorrow it is going in to have the bumpers redone. While at the body shop, I will have them take a look at it. Maybe a body shop has the skills to adjust.

Tomorrow the seats are also being taken out to have the alcantera replaced and stitched. Should look good.

Will post new pics after thanksgiving break.

Thanks!

2016 Magic Blue XC90 Inscription
2000 Venetian Red V70R
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#31 ·
Someone actually had this nightmare scenario and managed to find a way out of it. I can't remember exactly what they did now but it is worth at least being aware of so that you can look at that procedure if it ever happens.

The hood on my dad's '99 V70 used to do that. His hood had been damaged at some point in the past and had been replaced with a '98 hood. The repaint on that hood failed so we recently replaced it with either a '99 or 2000 hood and now the hood releases fine on the first try.
 
#47 ·
Just seen this reading through this. I had this scenario with my 850, but it was the passengers side that the cable had gotten out of place when I did the radiator on it and it come undone from the latch itself. There's a video online from Robert DIY that shows the v70 way of getting it to pop loose. I took a welding rod and bent it up into certain bends to get mine undone. Took me about 3-4hours to finally click mine open. I also had a spare hood latch off of my parts car to go by and know where to push at. Hope you have solved this issue already. If so how did you get yours undone?

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#37 ·
Bad Parts!

Just a note of caution on replacement parts.

I ordered a set of C70 Jewel headlights that seemed to be a quality product. I then also ordered replacement side lenses, these from Ebay made by TYC and sold by Sonic Motors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191055865020

Beware:

Both lenses came damaged and defective. Had to apply for a return and refund. Replacements are coming from 1A Auto, who has been pretty good on quality in the past. These parts could not have been made cheaper. I suggest you stay way from TYC replacement parts.
 
#39 ·
Just a note of caution on replacement parts.

I ordered a set of C70 Jewel headlights that seemed to be a quality product. I then also ordered replacement side lenses, these from Ebay made by TYC and sold by Sonic Motors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191055865020

Beware:

Both lenses came damaged and defective. Had to apply for a return and refund. Replacements are coming from 1A Auto, who has been pretty good on quality in the past. These parts could not have been made cheaper. I suggest you stay way from TYC replacement parts.
Pretty much any aftermarket corner light will have strange fitment and be of questionable quality.

The correct OEM part #s are:

9467897

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-turn-signal-assembly-front-right-9467897

http://www.volvopartscounter.com/oe-volvo/9467897

9467896

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-turn-signal-assembly-front-left-c70-s70-v70-9467896

http://www.volvopartscounter.com/oe-volvo/9467896

If you dislike the yellow reflector these aftermarket ones are decent quality and cheaper (i run them):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252384366516

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360702895607
 
#38 ·
Those are incorrect and do not match C70 jewels.
Side plastic is CLEAR like the headlights, those are ribbed to match the standard lights

You need the ones like on my old R, THESE: (I think you may have to order them from Volvo).

 
#40 ·
Bumpers off! Repair and repaint underway. New side Jewels on order.

Front Seats with new stitched alcantera have been reinstalled. Shout out to Mid America Upholstery for a fantastic job.

2016 Magic Blue XC90 Inscription
2000 Venetian Red V70R
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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