SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

Venetian Red 2000 V70R AWD Being Brought Back!

80K views 708 replies 62 participants last post by  CYB3RBYTE 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello All,

Usually I am posting on the 2016 XC90 Forum, but I think I will be more heavily involved here for a while.

I just bought a Veneitian Red with black, 2000 V70R. In 1998, I had a new, black V70R AWD wagon, and loved it. This will be my project car.

It spent the first 8 years in California. Not a bit of rust or undercarriage damage. No accidents.
The last 10 years it was owned by the owner of an Auto Service Shop, who showed it the love it needed. Timing belt replacement, synthetic oil change every 5K, coolant flushes, new camshaft seals, lots of other service.... HE sold it in pristine condition only because of personal health issues unrelated to the car.

The bad news is the last 8 months it was abused in some fashion, prior to being repossessed by the used car dealer. It now drives like a box of rocks without a steering wheel. According to both the local Volvo shop who did a pre purchase inspection (and the previous owner who is going to do the work for me (a Master Automotive Mechanic) it needs:

  • Replace both Lower Control Arms and Ball Joints
  • Remove and Replace Drive Shaft

    Ooch!

    Plus a bit of maintenenace:
  • Remove and Replace Upper Radiator Hose
  • Replace Cabin Air Filter
  • Replace Engine Air Filter

I am also going to Install Extreme Contact DWS Tires and do an alignment

I got it cheap as it was repossessed and I had the evidence of $3K in needed repairs. I expect it to be a great driver after this work is done. Alcantera interior needs some work, but all electrical, audio, and mechanical work fine.

The dent doctor is next, with a serious interior and exterior detail.

I'll be posting pics when I get it back with the necessary drivability improvements!

I may need some help along the way! I appreciate the info you guys share!

Fred
 
See less See more
#603 ·
Maybe you could have someone with VIDA access scan it. I'd be happy to bring my laptop down for the Mid-Summer event.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chicago_Wagon
#609 ·
  • Like
Reactions: Chicago_Wagon
#607 ·
A while ago on my '99V70R I encountered a hard start and then RPM hunt. Codes pointed to boost pressure sensor. PN 9125462… picked one up at the JY and problem solved.
 
#610 · (Edited)
Add @i_like_volvos to my beer list!

$3 for admission to the junkyard, and a "You're good, man" on the way out.

130565


Literally the easiest part swap in history. Test drive took longer than the swap. No more RPM hunting, and the CEL light stayed off.

I'll take the small victory.
 
#611 ·
FPS, right - snag a new one and have piece of mind.
Add @i_like_volvos to my beer list! ?

$3 for admission to the junkyard, and a "You're good, man" on the way out.

Literally the easiest part swap in history. Test drive took longer than the swap. No more RPM hunting, and the CEL light stayed off.
I'll take the small victory. ?
 
#613 ·
I'd send it on the jy one. Grab another and throw it in the spare tire well if you're worried about it.
 
#621 ·
those wheels yo !!! :love:
 
#626 ·
I wish this was a thing when I was a kid.....I remember making parking lots or similar groupings of cars playing with my collection and I'd be annoyed that there weren't enough normal cars in it LOL.
 
#628 · (Edited)
Updates. As I’m back at work now, I had my friends at the indie garage tackle the wheel bearing and a couple other things.

After I made the appointment, I was looking around underneath and noticed the foil heat shield down the middle of the car over the exhaust pipe had pulled past a couple of the retainers. They used new washers to secure it.

New sway bar links on both sides. (Pretty sure the stress from a bent one is what caused the bearing to fail.)

Somewhere along the way, a bolt on the DS strut knuckle seems to have sheared off. That would explain an occasional clunky noise. I definitely wouldn’t have had the expertise to extract that!

New DS outer tie rod.

And an alignment to complete everything!

Awesome, ready to roll...

Well, almost. Dust shield decided to give way on the way home and make a horrid noise. Again, washers pushed it back in place.

All good now...
 
#629 · (Edited)
Well, the Venetian had other ideas.

A few days later, I jumped into the wagon to run down the street only to have the coolant light turn on just before I pulled into the parking lot of my destination. Arrrg!

I cut the engine and opened the hood to find coolant flowing out the bottom and a small amount of spray over the top of the transmission and the end of the air box and even a little bit on the hood blanket. My first thought was the lower radiator hose where it connects to the engine. But nope, it was heater hose going into the firewall that was pissing everywhere. Good times. At least, the engine never overheated and I was close enough to home, I could go wait for the tow truck there.

So, I’m back to yellow coolant for now. Have to stop by the dealership to buy the official stuff and flush it back.

I covered the battery and coils with plastic and sprayed that part of the bay with water to rinse the coolant residue but I’m still getting smells sometimes. Perhaps it’s time for an engine bay steam.

Passed 232,000 miles somewhere in there, too.
 
#630 ·
Always that hose. I've lost count of how many have failed now. I'd replace all the hoses for peace of mind.
 
#631 ·
I don't think a bent swaybar link has anything to do with a wheel bearing failing - they just fail on Volvo's, especially ones in northern climates.
 
#633 ·
I agree with Wayne. Any 20 year old wheel bearing has earned the right to fail. One of my mom's wheel bearings failed at 103k.....but 21 years old.
 
#636 ·
The P80's and P2's I used to own would literally go through them every 50-60k. I don't tend to own cars very long and I was having to replace some of them twice.
 
#639 · (Edited)
Well, another fun post...

The last two nights have been the coldest of the winter thus far, 15°F and 13°F for lows. This morning, on my drive to work, I noticed a burning plastic smell. I also had the heated seat on and was slightly concerned that something had happened there. Pulled over, turned off the seat, and opened the hood. Smell seemed stronger in the engine bay, and I noticed that was a little evidence of possible rodent activity on the coil cover. Now I’m worried they chewed some wiring and wishing I had started using moth balls sooner this season. 🤦🏻‍♂️

I don’t have any tools with me and not dressed for crawling around under the car, so I’ll probably have to risk the 15-minute drive home.

Any suggestions? Hoping it's a freakin' plastic bag caught on something. 😕
 
#640 ·
So, I spent the next morning laying on my back and contorting at all sorts of angles trying to see in the nooks and crannies of the engine bay with a flashlight, but was unable to locate any evidence of chewing or nesting. The hood blanket was fine. I removed the cover over the coil pack and spark plugs, but nothing there. Nothing stuffed in the heat shield around the turbo.

The next drive there was just a hint of the smell, and the few drives thereafter there’s been no smells at all. I'm sure at some point in the future I'll move something and find whatever tucked away, but for now there’s no codes thrown and no issues with idle/boost/etc.
 
#641 ·
Maybe you drove over a plastic bag or something?
 
#646 · (Edited)
Unfortunately, no. It’s pretty new. (See previous cluster posts.) “Normal” maybe for a vehicle with a few years now in a climate with cold winters. The vehicle is my daily driver, so... 🤷🏻‍♂️

Edit: Also a super easy fix. Just grab a nice one at a junkyard and swap. The cluster isn’t attached to the cover.
 
#647 · (Edited)
Well, not the update I was hoping to post but...

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Motor vehicle


Looks like I’m finally due for the dreaded fuel pump replacement. Time to open the wallet.

The tech also reported a little oil in well 3 or 4. Most likely the valve cover.

I know the Blue Box pump is NLA. Open to recommendations.

Also, anything else we should be doing for either job, “as long as...”?
 
#661 ·
Well. I am in the same boat for my 2000 R. Fuel pump time too. I haven't touched the car for 6 months as I knew the fuel pump went bad. Just been crazy super nutty busy since covid started I haven't even been on the forum or worked on my cars. But for the past week, I been setting up a area at our new house to start working on the fuel pump replacement. I think I will do the drop down of the whole rear end way. Sub, driveline and fuel tank. All coming down and over hauled. After some research I think I like the idea of a DW300. Plus going to replace the transfer pump on the other side too. Then redo the fuel pump wiring to a larger size.
 
#648 ·
I've never played with an AWD fuel pump assembly but certain versions of the FWD pump carrier will accept a DW200/300 although you have to grind down the ribs the stock carrier sits on ever so slightly to get it in. I have a DW200 in my T-5R and a DW300 in my R.

How fresh is everything else in the engine bay?
 
#650 ·
Reread your post....I think I misread initially as there being oil in the cylinders. If just in the spark plug well verify that it isn't from oil getting on top of the engine somehow. Could be a PCV issue or even as simple as someone spilled some oil in the past.
 
Top