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    1. #141
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post

      The ones with octagon-shaped bulb holders might need a simple modification to allow them to take D2S bulbs. All of them with black plastic rings will fit D2S. Pics comparing beam patterns and cutoffs to come...
      Nice one, well done! But I must say, my aftermarket projectors looked MUCH better than this cr** on your last pic, wow!... I guess there is such thing as "better" Chineese copy
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    3. #142
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Aaaand the projector beam patterns...



      Enjoy
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    4. #143
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post

      Enjoy
      I love light comparison pics!

      From what I see, it actually show how much wider the beam from OEM AL projectors is comparing to replicas. I have always noticed how wide the beam spread is on Audi A4's etc versus my replicas and now its side-by-side proof. I guess there is a lot to gain by going OEM projectors vs replicas.
      Also - can you confirm that OEM AL1 and 2 are also bixenon? how come the opened shutter on replica creates razor sharp cutoff shape while the other just release a flood of light?
      Titanium Grey 2005 V50, T5AWD, M66, Stage 1 Hilton tune<-Click me
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    6. #144
      Member beachnut's Avatar
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      Sorry for the n00b question lol ... but the first pic is retro on stock projectors/lenses, yes? Doesn't seem too bad, but of course that's a short distance on a wall. Looks like there's still enough cutoff as to not invoke wrath from oncoming drivers?
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    7. #145
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      I love light comparison pics!
      Me too. If you go to the link there is a gallery thing where you can click back and forth, the best is the Gen 2 stock vs clear lens you can clearly see the effect of the rib running down the center of the lens.

      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      From what I see, it actually show how much wider the beam from OEM AL projectors is comparing to replicas. I have always noticed how wide the beam spread is on Audi A4's etc versus my replicas and now its side-by-side proof. I guess there is a lot to gain by going OEM projectors vs replicas.
      Not necessarily, it's the same amount of light just a different distribution. I would actually think that the replicas would be better for highway/high-speed driving because more of the light is focused in front. JDM (Acura, etc) type projectors are exactly the opposite, as wide a beam as possible (like 170 degrees or something) which leaves relatively little light directly in front.

      But without ABL, I agree that the OEM AL Gen 2 is probably the best compromise between side and front visibility, along with the prettiest cutoff (especially w/clear lenses)

      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      Also - can you confirm that OEM AL1 and 2 are also bixenon? how come the opened shutter on replica creates razor sharp cutoff shape while the other just release a flood of light?
      Everything except for the Volvo H11 is bi-xenon. The replicas that I got came with a high-beam limiter, basically a separate shield behind the bi-xenon flap:



      If you like it, one can be added pretty easily to any projector, the trick is getting the shape right so that it is in focus. IIRC Nick said that there are similar shields sometimes mounted to the top of the bowl, called a foreground limiter, to cut down on the light immediately in front of the car (which helps with night vision). All of these reduce the light down-range, so I am not sure why you'd want it other than that it looks cool against a wall.

      Quote Originally Posted by beachnut View Post
      Sorry for the n00b question lol ... but the first pic is retro on stock projectors/lenses, yes? Doesn't seem too bad, but of course that's a short distance on a wall. Looks like there's still enough cutoff as to not invoke wrath from oncoming drivers?
      Correct, and correct. Like I've said before, I've been using the stock projectors for 8 years and do not get flashed at, nor have I gotten pulled over (both happened in my S40 1.9T w/reflectors and HIDs). Sitting behind a car the cutoff is always below the rear window. In practice, using the stock projector is a fully functional option. The beam spread, pattern, and cutoff aren't perfect, but 50W bulbs make up for a lot of it. The only issue I've had (in NoVA) is the state safety inspector isn't always thrilled w/them because the housing says "H11" on it which is a halogen bulb. So I keep a spare set of halogens in the glove box, and change them out once per year.

      I decided to do some research into the projectors because there was so much incomplete and conflicting info out there, and I didn't want to recommend anything without seeing it myself. I will probably drop E46s in my car (because I have them, be a shame to waste ) into a spare set of housings - then for inspection I'll swap the housings instead of the bulbs. Remember, with a projector retrofit you can't use H11 (or any other halogen) bulbs without changing the projector back.
      Last edited by theshadow27; 08-03-2017 at 01:43 PM.
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    8. #146
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Also, the "clear lens" used in that shoot was the one that came on the replica, which is much deeper ("more convex") than any of the AL lenses. This results in a tighter beam pattern as seen on the ray optics simulator (scale greatly exaggerated, and don't mind the weird shape of the reflector, the thing at the back is an ideal mirror with a set focal length):



      So if using ZKW-R lenses, the AL clear patterns would be slightly wider than pictured above.

      Another interesting thing Nick pointed out is, unlike the replica clear lens which is symmetrical, the OEM lenses are more convex on bottom than top (which helps the high beam go higher) with a raised line in the middle (to blur the sharp edge, for easing eye strain). Pretty neat.

      At the end of the day though, we found that the beam pattern is most strongly dependent on reflector, then shield, with the lens geometry having the least pronounced effect. A sharp cutoff is pretty but not better for visibility.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    9. #147
      Member beachnut's Avatar
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      These are tempting ... $75 on closeout:

      https://www.theretrofitsource.com/cl...s.html#reviews
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    10. #148
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by beachnut View Post
      These are tempting ... $75 on closeout:

      https://www.theretrofitsource.com/cl...s.html#reviews
      Yep, always an option. This review pretty much sums up the replicas

      ... and my biggest complaint is the width of the output; it's roughly 1/3 the width of the stock projector and we all know the stock projector is already limited in width. the beam is like a flashlight due to the design of the reflector bowl, which is round instead of an oval shape like the stock projector.

      GOOD
      -super sharp cutoff due to clear lens
      -cheap (but a pair of used bosch OE bixenon projectors can be bought online for roughly the same amount)
      -it has a foreground limiter, which I like because it reminds me of the TLs

      ....

      Conclusion: If you're looking for a cheap projector to replace your OE bosch bixenon projectors, this is it. But don't expect anything from it except the nice sharp cutoff.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    11. #149
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Not necessarily, it's the same amount of light just a different distribution. I would actually think that the replicas would be better for highway/high-speed driving because more of the light is focused in front. JDM (Acura, etc) type projectors are exactly the opposite, as wide a beam as possible (like 170 degrees or something) which leaves relatively little light directly in front.

      But without ABL, I agree that the OEM AL Gen 2 is probably the best compromise between side and front visibility, along with the prettiest cutoff (especially w/clear lenses)
      Yep, thats what I meant for "wider pattern". From comparisons I know that AL replicas have highest lumen output of similar replicas (like mini1 or that Acura type one) but the narrowest beam pattern. Personally - I wish it was wider, as driving o country roads as I often do you really miss that side-margin light. It is clearly visible on my test pics from year ago (upper = projectors only, lower = projectors + standard foglamps). Our foglamps are far from decent and dont really serve much purpose except of "foglamping" (I mean they are not great as for lighting optic) but they do improve the spread of light, where on OEM xenons you probably would never need them

      comp.jpg

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27
      you like it, one can be added pretty easily to any projector, the trick is getting the shape right so that it is in focus. IIRC Nick said that there are similar shields sometimes mounted to the top of the bowl, called a foreground limiter, to cut down on the light immediately in front of the car (which helps with night vision). All of these reduce the light down-range, so I am not sure why you'd want it other than that it looks cool against a wall.
      Well, I actually have the exact same one on my retros thats why I was wondering how come none of OEM have it.TBH I didnt realise it is not the "common" way and thought such shape is normal for all bixenons, but obviously not. I am wondering why its done like that - to my understanding highbeams would work better without it right?
      as for foreground limiter - nah, really dont see the point of it. I understand the concept but with 35W and the pattern of my projectors it is not needed for me.


      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27
      Correct, and correct. Like I've said before, I've been using the stock projectors for 8 years and do not get flashed at, nor have I gotten pulled over (both happened in my S40 1.9T w/reflectors and HIDs). Sitting behind a car the cutoff is always below the rear window. In practice, using the stock projector is a fully functional option. The beam spread, pattern, and cutoff aren't perfect, but 50W bulbs make up for a lot of it. The only issue I've had (in NoVA) is the state safety inspector isn't always thrilled w/them because the housing says "H11" on it which is a halogen bulb. So I keep a spare set of halogens in the glove box, and change them out once per year.
      +1 to above, was driving with stock projector with fresnel lenses for half a year on HIDs and after proper adjustments - those are perfectly useable. You need to keep them lower because of not-so-clear cutoff line but this is far far better than mounting any HID kit to reflector lights...


      Cool thing about your light simulation, it proves that the beam spread is also very dependant on the lens type, again - another thing I somehow didnt think of. Made me immediately thinking "what if I get ZKW lenses" but then I read some comments from trw link posted by beachnut and realised it may not work.

      "I tried swapping my authentic ZKW lenses in place of the replica lenses and it totally messed up the output regardless of any adjustments. I then tried swapping the replica bowl with the stock bowl and output was again messed up. Thus, I concluded that this replica projector was tuned in a way that any adjustments or swapping parts will only degrade its output. "

      I guess its either "go with replica and dont mess with it" or "get OEMs and upgrade the living s**t out of them "
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    12. #150
      Member beachnut's Avatar
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      Since I drive mostly in a suburban/city environment at night I'm trying to decide which is better in regards to width of beam pattern. It's not like I need to see a deer about to prance across the road, but a random pedestrian or cyclist isn't out of the question. Highway driving at night? Rarely happens, and if it does it's we're off to see family a couple hours away and we won't take the S40 since it's too small for all four of us. All that said, anything is possible I suppose, and with daylight savings time coming soon (ugh) I'll be needing headlights at 5pm through the winter season.

      Here's a couple OEM projectors I found last night, one a Merc, the other a VW. I'm wondering if the lenses on these are the same (or close enough)?

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-Mer...53.m1438.l2649

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-08-...53.m1438.l2649

      Shadow, without digging back on the eta of your assembly process, where are you now on availability for an skbowe?
      Last edited by beachnut; 08-04-2017 at 07:26 AM.
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    13. #151
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      Quote Originally Posted by beachnut View Post
      Shadow, without digging back on the eta of your assembly process, where are you now on availability for an skbowe?
      Digging? lol no digging required... current status at https://www.skbowe.com/a/order/ or in the OP of this thread

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    14. #152
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      Quote Originally Posted by beachnut View Post
      Here's a couple OEM projectors I found last night, one a Merc, the other a VW. I'm wondering if the lenses on these are the same (or close enough)?
      Note that both of those are Gen1 AL projectors, so you'd need a solenoid controller to use them as bi-xenon.

      But the Gen1 lenses are pretty consistent, if there is a difference you'd only notice up against a wall. Gen2 have some crazy designs to them.
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    15. #153
      Member beachnut's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Digging? lol no digging required... current status at https://www.skbowe.com/a/order/ or in the OP of this thread
      Yeah, I was being lazy October gives me some time to decide and prepare, but I will buy one very soon from your next run.

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Note that both of those are Gen1 AL projectors, so you'd need a solenoid controller to use them as bi-xenon.

      But the Gen1 lenses are pretty consistent, if there is a difference you'd only notice up against a wall. Gen2 have some crazy designs to them.
      Yep, I noticed the gen1 thanks to all your help (and Nick too) and a lot of eBay surfing. I think I'm getting pretty good at spotting the differences. That visual chart is awesome! I've also spent a good deal of time reading here, TRS, HID Planet, etc. the past few days and am getting fairly well versed in the retrofit. Going back to my "don't want a hobby" statement versus wanting something better than crummy aftermarket I have to decide on a happy medium that I can accept. I can make another thread about it if you like. It's not my intention to clutter up your skbowe thread with my own project.
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    16. #154
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      I figured I'd ask this here, to keep all the info in one place.

      Where would you all recommend mounting the ballast? I saw the recommended location on the SKBOWE website for the SKBOWE.



      I mounted mine on the wheel well side kinda where the recommended mounting location was. My issue was finding a spot to mount the ballast within reach of the SKBOWE. I fastened them both with self tapping screws on opposing corners, and washers.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    17. #155
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by beachnut View Post
      I can make another thread about it if you like. It's not my intention to clutter up your skbowe thread with my own project.
      Keep it here. Too many HID threads already.

      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      Where would you all recommend mounting the ballast? I saw the recommended location on the SKBOWE website for the SKBOWE.



      I mounted mine on the wheel well side kinda where the recommended mounting location was. My issue was finding a spot to mount the ballast within reach of the SKBOWE. I fastened them both with self tapping screws on opposing corners, and washers.
      That looks good to me... Could also mount the SKBOWE upright and the ballast below it, or turn the ballast 90 degrees so the connectors are on the bottom.

      You can throw the SKBOWE in the oven at 150F for 15 minutes to make the harness easier to bend.

      BTW did you not do the power steering recall TSB? That hose shouldn't be isn't commonly in the way.
      Last edited by theshadow27; 08-05-2017 at 03:32 PM. Reason: Not actually a recall.
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    18. #156
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      I have a question (see, my hand is raised ) ... the gen2 oem projectors, the ones with the octagon rings ... so, I'm learning that those are for D1S bulbs w/ integrated igniters ... will those fit inside our housings and still be able to shut the back cap? I have the pre-FL lights. Those are more common, and they are newer, so hopefully in better condition. Oh ... which brings up another question ... some of these I see have *burn* marks on the reflector bowls. Can those marks be cleaned somehow, or is that a "steer clear of those" kind of thing?
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    19. #157
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      Quote Originally Posted by beachnut View Post
      the octagon rings ... so, I'm learning that those are for D1S bulbs w/ integrated igniters
      As nick said earlier, they were made in D1S and D3S variants. The only difference between D1, D2, D3, and D4 is the position of a small metal key tab, which can easily be bent out of the way. Then, any of the bulbs (including D2S) will fit.

      Quote Originally Posted by beachnut View Post
      will those fit inside our housings and still be able to shut the back cap?
      Not sure if real D1S bulbs will fit, but they are way too expensive to use if you don't have to. Kyle got OEM D2S ballasts to work (See link #5 in the top of the OP), and (paraphrasing Nick's post from the first page) it is doable but super tight with the Morimoto D2S on-bulb ignitors, install required removing some of the internal supporting structure to fit. I think even most D2S-AMP adapters will be a similar situation.

      Quote Originally Posted by beachnut View Post
      some of these I see have *burn* marks on the reflector bowls. Can those marks be cleaned somehow, or is that a "steer clear of those" kind of thing?
      Brown does not usually come out of the bowl, though a lot of dirt and silver "haze" might. Observe abovesaid warnings on cleaning optics. Obviously burns are undesirable, but the effects really depends on location. The bottom of the bowl (behind the shield) does absolutely nothing for the beam pattern or light output, and tends to get hotter because of all the internal reflection. Top of the bowl may cause dark spots - but the gen2 projector in my spread above had the **** burned out of it (Nick's discard lol) and still seemed to impress everyone
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    20. #158
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      That hose shouldn't be isn't commonly in the way.
      I have that hose too, along with the upper reservoir where you can check the fluid level without removing the headlight. Mine is an early build '05 before they went to this: . I'm just leaving mine alone unless it breaks.

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      I think even most D2S-AMP adapters will be a similar situation.

      The bottom of the bowl (behind the shield) does absolutely nothing for the beam pattern or light output, and tends to get hotter because of all the internal reflection. Top of the bowl may cause dark spots - but the gen2 projector in my spread above had the **** burned out of it (Nick's discard lol) and still seemed to impress everyone
      You mean these adapters right? Wondering if the 90-degree ones are better than the "straight-ons". Regarding burn spots, many of the projectors I'm seeing on eBay have spots in the upper bowl. Then there are those auctions that don't even show the bowl, so would have to ask for more pics

      Question about your ballast install ... are those hex-head bolts with nuts on the other side? I'm guessing you took your wheel liner out (I would at least). I'm planning on using the Morimoto XB35 AMP ballasts, I think lol.
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    21. #159
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      Yeah sorry about that PS pump guys, had totally forgotten about it. I will leave the output side of the next batch of SKBOWE a little longer to help work around it. More pics of installs with it would be appreciated.

      Those are the adapters, you can get them on Amazon for 1/2 the TRS price tho. Have to be right angle, there would be no way to seal it if they came straight out. The ballast should include a grommet that seals the AMP and Power wires, make sure they do not go in directly behind the projector and it should be ok.

      My ballasts came tapped so no nuts required. Morimoto ballasts will need nuts (or self tapping screws - just watch out for hoses). I didn't take the liner out, though it would have made it go faster. It's not hard to remove.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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      Just had them temporarily mounted behind the light housing mounts with zip ties. When the morimoto ballasts come later this week, I'll probably mount them in the same spot for now.

      Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

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      Would it be better to post install pics and notes in this thread to keep it all relative, or create another?
      2005 S40 2.4i

    24. #162
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      Would it be better to post install pics and notes in this thread to keep it all relative, or create another?
      This is the SKBOWE thread... So yes, if you have pics of an HID install that uses SKBOWEs please post at least one here (or as many as you want). I also expect any issues/problems/support stuff related to the SKBOWE to live here.

      If you have issues/questions/comments about a non-SKBOWE HID install, go here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=135645

      If you have questions/comments about building your own KBOWE, go here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=129216

      If you have questions/comments about the CEM or the engineering of the KBOWE, SKBOWE or any other HID cancelers, go here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=125561

      The official AL "E46" projector thread is coming soon.

      You are more than welcome to start your own "how-to" install thread, but it better have big beautiful pics in it.

      Otherwise, here is fine.

      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    25. #163
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Who wants a Volvo P1 specific, WMM safe, HID Retrofit?

      Here's my install/notes from when I did this (any input or suggestions are welcomed! This is my first retrofit, so not sure how to do it the best, yet)

      My part list (all sourced from The Retrofit Source and theshadow27)


      (2) SKBOWEs

      (2) XB35 Morimoto Ballasts
      (2) D2S Ignitors
      (2) D2S 4500K bulbs
      (2) E46 Bosch Replica Projectors

      First, I installed the projectors. They are an easy swap with just three T30 screws. Just swap the old ones out for the new D2S projectors.


      [Left Side]

      [Right Side]

      Make sure you buy the 90* style ignitors. This will allow you to only need to cut out on hole in your original rear covers for the headlight assembly.

      Route the wire below the igniter. If you notice, the back of the headlight covers taper further out as you move away from the center of the car. So, position your ignitors to follow the taper.

      [Left Side]

      The rear cover needs to be "dremeled" out to allow clearance for the ignitors to fit without needing to modify how the rear cover attaches, or having to cut a giant hole out of it.


      [Left Side]

      [Right Side]

      I positioned my ballasts and SKBOWEs behind the headlight assembly, and above the wheel/fender liners.


      [Right Side]

      They are attached to the metal via self tapping screws and washers. Also, there is industrial velcro in the center of each unit to add stability.

      Here are the mounting positions when looking from in front of the car with the headlights removed


      [Left Side]

      [Right Side]

      It is much tighter on the PS side, but that is due to me having the older style PS reservoir and pump. Your setup may be easier.

      Then, just plug it all in and waterseal the back of the headlights with the provided rubber grommet.


      [Left Side]

      Here is the view of them completed:


      [Left Side]

      [Right Side]

      Light output with left side HID and right side Halogen:




      Light output with both HID:




      ISSUES:

      My left side projector has a horrible corona effect going on. I am referring to that concentrated outer ring area of the projector light. I have tried swapping lens, and the result is the same. I am thinking it is due to a poorly manufactured replica projector. I'm hoping to further troubleshoot the issue and solve the beam defect.

      The beams have a bright hotspot, and have a dull "blue" to them at the cutoff spots. You will need to adjust the output of your headlights by using the two Allen spots and adjust the shield screw on the physical projector assembly to achieve the best output.



      NOTES:

      Firstly, big thanks for theshadow27 for designing and building these SKBOWEs. He's the real hero here! I haven't had any issues with bulbs or ballasts. The BOW works correctly, and everything lights up quickly.

      The stock headlight wiring is very fragile, so be careful when manipulating it.

      I'm hoping to add hi beam functionality next with a simple harness.

      I'm sure I'll think of other stuff, but that's it for now!

      To clean the lens I used this:
      Last edited by mgm7890; 08-07-2017 at 07:39 PM.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    26. #164
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Beautiful! Even got the right lens cleaning stuff... makes me

      I will link to this in the OP - really nice pics.

      My only suggestion: when you go do to the high beam, add some RTV around the grommet, especially where the power wire comes out and where the ignitor wire goes through. Just pull the grommet out, run a bead of RTV around the outside and put it back in. From the inside, add some extra round the two wires and wiggle them in and out. That will keep it everything in place and keep the inside nice and dry.

      My favorite pic of the batch is:

      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      Nick was giving me flack for using OEM spec tape and loom. That pic shows why I did it - the SKBOWE wires blend in perfectly with the OEM harnesses... It's only the silly Morimoto braid that sticks out like a sore thumb.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    27. #165
      Member beachnut's Avatar
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      Looks fantastic MGM, great job!

      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      The stock headlight wiring is very fragile, so be careful when manipulating it.
      Yes, I know all about the crummy wiring. I spent some time today starting to get my lights ready, and the wiring on the the driver's housing was pretty much shot. Almost thought about throwing in the towel and trolling eBay for a used one. But ... I spent at least an hour doing this and it lives to see another day:



      Oh and Shadow ... I'm ready for that official AL E46 thread ... will have plenty of questions I even took out the driver's H11 projector today to get a few pics in preparation.

      2015.5 XC60 T6 Flamenco Red/Sand, Platinum, Tech, Blis
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    28. #166
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Who wants a Volvo P1 specific, WMM safe, HID Retrofit?

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      My only suggestion: when you go do to the high beam, add some RTV around the grommet, especially where the power wire comes out and where the ignitor wire goes through. Just pull the grommet out, run a bead of RTV around the outside and put it back in. From the inside, add some extra round the two wires and wiggle them in and out. That will keep it everything in place and keep the inside nice and dry.
      Thanks for the suggestion! I'd like to find a new grommet to have both wires go through; instead of having one hang out. Since the HID setup would probably not pass inspection, I still need to be able to swap projectors and keep the original H11 connector present. If I didn't, I'd get another grommet and then place both sets of wires permanently in it.

      Nick was giving me flack for using OEM spec tape and loom. That pic shows why I did it - the SKBOWE wires blend in perfectly with the OEM harnesses... It's only the silly Morimoto braid that sticks out like a sore thumb.
      I like how it blends in easily. The braided Morimoto cable is *too unique* to the original wiring. I'm sure that's what they were going for, but for *blending* in- not so much. The SKBOWE is very sturdy in construction, and the wires are easy to bend and can be stuffed in several holes around the headlight to allow a flush fit.

      The other issue is that where I cut the grommet hole is the only place I could see it being cut. This gives it a location that butts up right against the windshield washer fluid, or PS lines. So, being about to position the wires coming out of it is key.

      Does anyone know what that corona effect could be coming from? It's annoying to drive around at night with the left side all lit up around the edge!
      Last edited by mgm7890; 08-08-2017 at 06:08 AM.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    29. #167
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      ISSUES:

      My left side projector has a horrible corona effect going on. I am referring to that concentrated outer ring area of the projector light. I have tried swapping lens, and the result is the same. I am thinking it is due to a poorly manufactured replica projector. I'm hoping to further troubleshoot the issue and solve the beam defect.
      If I can maybe add my 2 eurocents - I spent fair amount of evenings fiddling with those retro projectors on my test bench as I had some issues originally aswell (corona, rainbow effect and hotspot misalligned). As you noticed adjusting the screws of shutter can help nivelate some issues, but you may also have a go with bulb saddle itself. In my case (H7 burners) using pliers on base of the bulb to twist the metal a bit allowed me to center the hotspot perfectly and nivelate most of "escaping light" artifacts. As you cant do the same with DS bulbs, you can use the "juice carton" fix, where you just cut a small piece from thick and heat resistant material (juice carton :P) and use it around the bulb base to extend the distance between bulb and its saddle, if needed. Also allows you to center the hotspot if you place more material on one side and less on another (imagine placing some on 3o'clock position and notice how hotspot and artifacts move).

      In general, if you are able to take whole headlamp out and connect it while working on test bench (all you need is PC power supply, 1 paperclip and ofcourse yours or spare ballast) you have good way of testing various positioning of bulb and help with all unwanted artifact, also nivelating all possible flaws of replicas. By trial of error you will get to the point where its as best as it gets, and then you can sigh loudly and open a beer

      thanks for the photostory btw! Always interested to see "how others do it" How is the light now, even with current issues. Happy when driving at night?
      Titanium Grey 2005 V50, T5AWD, M66, Stage 1 Hilton tune<-Click me
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    30. #168
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Who wants a Volvo P1 specific, WMM safe, HID Retrofit?

      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      As you cant do the same with DS bulbs, you can use the "juice carton" fix, where you just cut a small piece from thick and heat resistant material (juice carton :P) and use it around the bulb base to extend the distance between bulb and its saddle, if needed. Also allows you to center the hotspot if you place more material on one side and less on another (imagine placing some on 3o'clock position and notice how hotspot and artifacts move).
      That's a great idea!! Thanks for the suggestion. I did notice the hotspots weren't aligned and it really bugged me. The bulb does not sit flush. I'm guessing this is due to the poor QA of the replica. I'll try the "juice box" method, or use some aluminum tape and see what happens!

      How is the light now, even with current issues. Happy when driving at night?
      The light is amazing, obviously haha the stock halogens suck on these cars. I've done the H9 conversion, re sanded the lens, and even cleaned the stock projector glass, and nothing really helped. The HID conversion is very beneficial to all parties on the road; if done properly, and aimed correctly.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    31. #169
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post

      The light is amazing, obviously haha the stock halogens suck on these cars. I've done the H9 conversion, re sanded the lens, and even cleaned the stock projector glass, and nothing really helped. The HID conversion is very beneficial to all parties on the road; if done properly, and aimed correctly.
      Yep, 100%! I can tell you that even with brand new replicas, polished plexi shield and very good H7 halogen bulbs (so almost "brand new headlamp" setup) light output is terrible, comparing to free-form reflectors of my previous gen S40. Tested on myself.
      Projectors + halogen light emitter = fail.
      good luck with alignments, hope you get it right!
      Titanium Grey 2005 V50, T5AWD, M66, Stage 1 Hilton tune<-Click me
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    32. #170
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      keep the original H11 connector present. If I didn't, I'd get another grommet and then place both sets of wires permanently in it.
      It is pretty easy to remove the male pins from the H11->9005 connector using a paper clip. Once the housing is off, you should be able to fit it through the center of the existing grommet. I agree that there is no good place for a passthrough, but eventually the wires conform to the 90 degree bend and there shouldn't be any issues.



      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      Does anyone know what that corona effect could be coming from? It's annoying to drive around at night with the left side all lit up around the edge!
      I played around with my replica this AM and couldn't replicate the halo even moving the bulb way out and sideways in any direction, must be a "feature" of the TRS replicas not present in the "My.Headlight" (ebay/alibaba) branded ones.



      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      aluminum tape
      Aluminum furnace ("duct") tape for sure. Not sure what juice box is in UK but I would keep waxed cardboard away from headlight components

      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      The HID conversion is very beneficial to all parties on the road; if done properly, and aimed correctly.
      +1
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    33. #171
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post

      Aluminum furnace ("duct") tape for sure. Not sure what juice box is in UK but I would keep waxed cardboard away from headlight components
      hehe, just to clarify - original "design" of this mod was done using actual juice box (the one that has aluminium insert and thick cardboard outside) hence the name, but obviously something more to-the-purpose will be better The idea remains the same
      BTW - if you cant fix the issue, maybe its worth writing to TRS and asking for replacement projector?
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    34. #172
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      Well, the Morimotos came last night......but my retrofit just got more complicated.

      Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

    35. #173
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      BTW - if you cant fix the issue, maybe its worth writing to TRS and asking for replacement projector?
      I thought of this, but they are closeout items. Do you think they'd care at that point? I guess maybe if I contact them, they may at least be aware of the issue and have a possible solution! Thanks for the idea!
      2005 S40 2.4i

    36. #174
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by rhags138 View Post
      Well, the Morimotos came last night......but my retrofit just got more complicated
      Oh no!? What happened?!!?
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    37. #175
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      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      the one that has aluminium insert and thick cardboard outside
      Just be careful with this. Depending on binders autoignition point of cardboard is between 220-240C, which is lower than the operating temperature of the HID quartz envelope (~300C). A spacer is shielded from direct exposure by the reflector, but I think under the right circumstances you could at least expect decomposition resulting in nasty smoke inside of the housing.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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