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    1. #316
      Administrator chris@swedespeed's Avatar
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      Did my retrofit last night. Thanks to Jacob for the help!

      Currently running with the stock projector housing and H11 HIDs. Aside from cutting a hole in the back cover, this is a plug and play setup and low beam performance is literally a night and day difference (pun intended).

      Morimoto 55w ballasts, ignitors and 5500k bulbs.


      Laying out the connections with the SKBOWE:


      To get the bulbs to fire up, I had to flip the connector at the bulb end:


      Comparison:








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    3. #317
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Has anyone had any issues with their SKBOWE and HIDs in the cold? Mine don't always like to start on the first try in the cold. Usually have to restart or turn on home safe lighting and then start the car. Only happens when it's really cold out. Using an SKBOWE and DDM Tuning HID kit.

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    4. #318
      Junior Member hq_'s Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Has anyone had any issues with their SKBOWE and HIDs in the cold? Mine don't always like to start on the first try in the cold.
      Not with SKBOWE but with crappy HID kits in general. Chinese el-cheapo ballasts and bulbs have often started malfunctioning prematurely and requiring several attempts before they finally light up. I'm not sure what the overall build quality of DDM kit is, but an educated guess based on their product pictures (plastic base bulbs, generic bulk-type ballasts) isn't necessarily too encouraging.

      That's the main reason I insist on D-type (D2S etc.) bulbs to be able to use brand-name items and pay close attention to ballasts on main headlights. Auxiliary lights may well be either cheap or totally experimental because they're not used on daily basis and if they fail you can make do without them. Even then I keep at least one spare ballast/bulb pair in the trunk on longer trips, just in case.

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    6. #319
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
      Did my retrofit last night. Thanks to Jacob for the help!



      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Has anyone had any issues with their SKBOWE and HIDs in the cold? Mine don't always like to start on the first try in the cold. Usually have to restart or turn on home safe lighting and then start the car. Only happens when it's really cold out. Using an SKBOWE and DDM Tuning HID kit.
      Quote Originally Posted by hq_ View Post
      Not with SKBOWE but with crappy HID kits in general.
      +1

      The SKBOWE is rated to operate between -55°c – 105°c (-67°F - 221°F), so unless you are in Antarctica, it's probably your ballasts :-)

      Remember DDM is the "Budget" option... they are able to sell an entire kit for the cost of one D2S bulb by cutting corners, and cold-weather performance is one area where this shows.

      Edit: Looks like the car is only rated down to -40°c, so if you are in Antartica, you've probably got bigger problems...
      http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/.../05s40_12a.htm
      Last edited by theshadow27; 12-10-2018 at 11:11 PM.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    7. #320
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post







      +1

      The SKBOWE is rated to operate between -55°c – 105°c (-67°F - 221°F), so unless you are in Antarctica, it's probably your ballasts :-)

      Remember DDM is the "Budget" option... they are able to sell an entire kit for the cost of one D2S bulb by cutting corners, and cold-weather performance is one area where this shows.
      Oh yeah, I know it's definitely not sure problem with the skbowe. Those things are like bricks lol.

      I have been thinking about upgrading to a morimoto kit. I contacted DDM and they want me to buy a harness to "add more voltage to the lights". Id rather just get the morimoto kit than add another harness. Thanks for the info!

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    8. #321
      Junior Member Nick0matic's Avatar
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      Definitely bad ballasts or igniters. For what it's worth, I've had two Morimoto ballasts fail on me so far, with symptoms including cold start failure, hot restart failure, or driving over a pebble failure. No matter what you do, aftermarket ballasts will all be some garden variety of cheap. One of my 2.5-year-old XB35s is still chugging along, but while the "2000 hour" rating of OEM ballasts is a pessimistic guideline, it's more of a best case with the stars aligned for Morimoto and other brands. Hell, I keep buying TRS stuff because even with unproven and spotty reliability and a sort of high price tag, TRS has pretty good customer support. OEM ballasts are the best option, but hardest to work with since they aren't designed to be retrofitted

      I'll also chime back in and plug E46 projectors for people retrofitting! Go make this seller very happy, he/she is selling them for $40 per pair. Probably as new a set as you can get these days.
      07 V50 T5 AWD | E46 Bi-xenon w/ KBOWE | Projector Info

    9. #322
      Junior Member hq_'s Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nick0matic View Post
      No matter what you do, aftermarket ballasts will all be some garden variety of cheap.
      Not by all means necessarily. Try Hella, Bosch, Denso, Koito etc. for quite respectable service life. They're nowhere near as cheap as run of the mill chinese ballasts but the build quality is on a totally different level. During last 10+ years I've only had two fail on me, one OEM at 220k miles and another after I had modified it to squeeze approximately 90W out of a 35W design. OTOH I literally have a full bucket of failed chinese ballasts.

      If you're on a tight budget, junkyards are a goldmine for these and you can get the wiring harness with appropriate connectors at the same time.

    10. #323
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nick0matic View Post
      ...
      I'll also chime back in and plug E46 projectors for people retrofitting! Go make this seller very happy, he/she is selling them for $40 per pair. Probably as new a set as you can get these days.
      out of curiosity - are those confirmed fit? The mount pattern looks ok just from the pic, but this shroud and all - fits no problem? Also being D1S, enough space for internal igniter without modifying the back of lamp?
      Titanium Grey 2005 V50, T5AWD, M66, Stage 1 Hilton tune<-Click me
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    11. #324
      Junior Member Jirv0id's Avatar
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      E46 are D2S or should be if they are post 2003 units. And you won't use the shrouds you would use your stock halogen shrouds they just won't be blue.
      2007 V50 T5 AWD M66 ~ Custom machined weighted shiftknob powdercoated wrinkle polstarblue, Custom pod filter intake, Muffler delete, 18" Pegasus IPD Reps, EBC redstuff pads, EBC blank rotors.

    12. #325
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Jirv0id View Post
      E46 are D2S or should be if they are post 2003 units. And you won't use the shrouds you would use your stock halogen shrouds they just won't be blue.
      I was referring to the link provided by Nick0matic with odd D1s projectors from Dodge Dart
      Titanium Grey 2005 V50, T5AWD, M66, Stage 1 Hilton tune<-Click me
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    13. #326
      Junior Member Jirv0id's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Jirv0id View Post
      E46 are D2S or should be if they are post 2003 units. And you won't use the shrouds you would use your stock halogen shrouds they just won't be blue.
      I was referring to the link provided by Nick0matic with odd D1s projectors from Dodge Dart
      Oh strange they would put D3S instead of D4S. The bulb mounting plate should be changeable. But I wouldn't know where to find a D2S/D4S bulb plate. If not just trim the wrong pin out of the way.
      2007 V50 T5 AWD M66 ~ Custom machined weighted shiftknob powdercoated wrinkle polstarblue, Custom pod filter intake, Muffler delete, 18" Pegasus IPD Reps, EBC redstuff pads, EBC blank rotors.

    14. #327
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Before this gets out of hand, you can use D2S bulbs in D1S/D2S/D3S/D4S projectors. They all have the same base and arc location. Please see:
      https://www.skbowe.com/a/2017/10/18/...r-d4s-d4r-etc/
      specifically the section at the bottom "AL Gen2 Projector “de-key” Modification"

      Edit: And I just looked, the projectors that Nick linked to above WILL drop-in to P1 headlights with the "de-key" mod. You will need a D2S bulb, and either D2S-specific ballast-ignitor combo or a normal AMP ballast and a AMP-D2S adapter. To get the high beam solenoid working, you will need to wire it to the high beam per https://www.skbowe.com/a/2017/10/17/...enon-solenoid/ or https://www.skbowe.com/a/2017/07/27/...e46-projector/
      Last edited by theshadow27; 12-12-2018 at 01:57 PM.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    15. #328
      Junior Member Nick0matic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by hq_ View Post
      Not by all means necessarily. Try Hella, Bosch, Denso, Koito etc. for quite respectable service life. They're nowhere near as cheap as run of the mill chinese ballasts but the build quality is on a totally different level. During last 10+ years I've only had two fail on me, one OEM at 220k miles and another after I had modified it to squeeze approximately 90W out of a 35W design. OTOH I literally have a full bucket of failed chinese ballasts.

      If you're on a tight budget, junkyards are a goldmine for these and you can get the wiring harness with appropriate connectors at the same time.
      We aren't disagreeing here All you listed (and then some) are OEM ballasts...bastions of quality and expensive overengineering...they're rated for 2500 hours just as well, but many 20 year old Bosch ballasts from the early BMW E46s still work well to this day. The only problem with them is that they aren't usually designed to be completely external devices, so they are harder to retrofit. As far as actual performance, they unequivocally beat every aftermarket solution.

      Aftermarket ballasts...well...I stand by my statement.

      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      out of curiosity - are those confirmed fit? The mount pattern looks ok just from the pic, but this shroud and all - fits no problem? Also being D1S, enough space for internal igniter without modifying the back of lamp?
      Very much confirmed, since I already have!. Plus read the post above mine, we've both moved/broke those key pins out of the way since they don't affect the bulb holder mechanism
      07 V50 T5 AWD | E46 Bi-xenon w/ KBOWE | Projector Info

    16. #329
      Junior Member hq_'s Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nick0matic View Post
      We aren't disagreeing here All you listed (and then some) are OEM ballasts...bastions of quality and expensive overengineering...
      They're available as aftermarket products as well, some with generic 9006 power and AMP/KET/KET2 high voltage terminals. Some early 2000's VAG bixenons even have a retrofit-friendly plug&play 9006 to D2S/D2R arrangement. Not very common outside factory replacement because they're not cheap, but fairly commonly available if you prefer to avoid chinese alternatives.

    17. #330
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nick0matic View Post
      ...



      Very much confirmed, since I already have!. Plus read the post above mine, we've both moved/broke those key pins out of the way since they don't affect the bulb holder mechanism
      lol, true that, nevermind me I forgot you listed D1S projectors earlier in this thread, I even have the list saved in txt file for future reference I must have had not enough coffee when replying to your thread as only thing I though was "D1S ?? BLASPHEMY!!!"
      tx for clarification though
      Titanium Grey 2005 V50, T5AWD, M66, Stage 1 Hilton tune<-Click me
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    18. #331
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      So the retrofitlabs kit came today... As I suspected, the "error eliminators" are 5.5 ohm resistors and it came with a relay harness. The slim/digital ballasts are pretty nice, but the hard-wired, inline "super eliminator" is not built very well, snap-on back, potting only with RTV which easily came off (would fail in engine bay very quickly), some coils, a diode, and two 16v 10,000uF capacitors. Out of curiosity I hooked it up direct to the SKBOWE test bench and fed it 60% PWM and it fired up - although it was not very happy about it, getting up to 65°c before I decided that I should not burn it up.

      Link: https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/volvo...eadlights.html
      Cost: 260 euro (with "e46" replica projectors)
      P1 Plug-and-play? YES
      Method: Relay Harness + Load Resistor (No Factory Bulb-Failure Warning if a ballast/bulb fails)
      Overall Rating: 4/5 due to cheap potting

      Notes:
      - Ballast chassis is NOT connected to negative (-) input lead, so you should wire an additional ground into the relay harness by each headlight.
      - Load resistor does not include grommet, but it should not be mounted inside of headlight housing as it will draw 45W+.

      I'll add pics to the site when I have some time...
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
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    19. #332
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      Nick0Matic - thanks for the heads up on the $37 pair of Dodge Dart projectors. Just picked up a set for spares. Couldn't pass that up!
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    20. #333
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Ordered my SKBOWE kit to go with the Retro-Quik: Bosch "E46" Bi-Xenon kit for my C30 this week. Looking forward to better lighting later in January!

    21. #334
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      Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
      Did my retrofit last night. Thanks to Jacob for the help!

      Currently running with the stock projector housing and H11 HIDs. Aside from cutting a hole in the back cover, this is a plug and play setup and low beam performance is literally a night and day difference (pun intended).

      Morimoto 55w ballasts, ignitors and 5500k bulbs.
      By any chance can you share where you purchased, and which options you picked for the Morimoto kit?

      Did you purchase a "wiring harness?"

      I'm ready to pull the trigger, just need to get all my ducks in a row.

      This is what I have

      * Stock Halogen Headlight Housing/Projector (P1, non HID)
      * SKBOWE- $109
      * Morimoto Elite HID Kit from Retrofit Source w/ H11B D2S Bulbs, 55W Ballast, no wire harness - $125

      Once that is purchased:

      * Pop out halogen bulb
      * Install SKBOWE
      * Place in Morimoto kit/bulb
      * Enjoy

      Is that it? You mentioned cutting a hole, this is for the ballast/SKBOWE cables to pass through, correct? Did you use a grommet for moisture?

    22. #335
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by deeveeance View Post
      By any chance can you share where you purchased, and which options you picked for the Morimoto kit?

      Did you purchase a "wiring harness?"

      I'm ready to pull the trigger, just need to get all my ducks in a row.

      This is what I have

      * Stock Halogen Headlight Housing/Projector (P1, non HID)
      * SKBOWE- $109
      * Morimoto Elite HID Kit from Retrofit Source w/ H11B D2S Bulbs, 55W Ballast, no wire harness - $125

      Once that is purchased:

      * Pop out halogen bulb
      * Install SKBOWE
      * Place in Morimoto kit/bulb
      * Enjoy

      Is that it? You mentioned cutting a hole, this is for the ballast/SKBOWE cables to pass through, correct? Did you use a grommet for moisture?
      Looks like you got everything worked out. No wiring harness (aka relay harness). The bulbs come with grommets pre-installed to pass 12V PWM out to the SKBOWE, and pass in high voltage from the ballast to the bulb. You drill a hole in the headlight cover for this grommet and seal it with RTV silicone.

      If you haven’t ordered a SKBOWE and are considering it the time is now, this is the last batch and there are only a few left. I’ll be shutting down the order page on the 15th, if they don’t sell out before then.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    23. #336
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Looks like you got everything worked out. No wiring harness (aka relay harness). The bulbs come with grommets pre-installed to pass 12V PWM out to the SKBOWE, and pass in high voltage from the ballast to the bulb. You drill a hole in the headlight cover for this grommet and seal it with RTV silicone.

      If you haven’t ordered a SKBOWE and are considering it the time is now, this is the last batch and there are only a few left. I’ll be shutting down the order page on the 15th, if they don’t sell out before then.

      PERFECT. Purchased it right now (batch 5) and will get the Morimoto kit soon!

      Do you know what size hole it was to drill out?

      Thank you!

    24. #337
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
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      Shutting down completely?
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    25. #338
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      @deeveeance - don’t drill holes till you get the ballasts. The grommet sizes aren’t standard.

      @jondevieon - Yes, completely.

      The scope of the project was to make 100 sets and I did. While I have very much enjoyed this project, making another 100 is a huge time commitment (to build and sell and support 100 units) and cash investment (~$8k, need to sell 80%+ to break even) and other things have risen in priority since it started.

      All project objectives were met:

      • design a product to alow safe operation of HIDs in P1 using scientific method and reverse engineering
      • demonstrate the design is reliable in a statisticly relevant sample of P1 vehicles
      • establish a complete (start to ship) batch manufacturing process, with an optimal step by step for assembly
      • accurately determine average per-unit cost including parts, consumables, packaging materials, and tools
      • demonstrate there is demand (small but non-negligible, ~50 units/yr) for the product at the necessary price point to allow for a small profit margin (assuming low labor cost)
      • compile feedback from the community on the design and installation in a range of P1s pre/post facelift


      I will take this data back to the vendors who were not interested in the theoretical design, perhaps some hard data will get them to reconsider. I will also look into contract manufacturing if that doesn’t pan out. I will keep the website up, as I have spent a ton of time compiling info on P1 + HIDs. The design is open source and some will be able to build it themselves. Of course I will support all 100 SKBOWEs that have sold, but I won’t be building any more units myself for the foreseeable future.

      @“but I just found this thread, wont you please build me a SKBOWE” - sorry, not at this time. A relay harness is perfectly safe as long as it grounds the HIDs seperatly (most do), with an “anti flicker capacitor” to stop the relay from buzzing. You’ll need load resistors to avoid a BOW (only if the message bothers you), and either way the car won’t detect when a ballast/bulb has failed so be sure to check them yourself.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    26. #339
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      @deeveeance - don’t drill holes till you get the ballasts. The grommet sizes aren’t standard.
      I'm more of a measure twice, cut once kinda person, so I think I'll wait.

      Also, I noticed that TRS only has a 50w ballast option for the H11B Morimoto Elite HID kit. Is there a difference?

      Here is the kit I'm looking to order tomorrow. HID KIT

    27. #340
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by deeveeance View Post
      I'm more of a measure twice, cut once kinda person, so I think I'll wait.

      Also, I noticed that TRS only has a 50w ballast option for the H11B Morimoto Elite HID kit. Is there a difference?

      Here is the kit I'm looking to order tomorrow. HID KIT
      Do you know if we in the P1 market need the H11A or H11B? I can't remember exactly.

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    28. #341
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      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Do you know if we in the P1 market need the H11A or H11B? I can't remember exactly.
      From everything I've read and been recommended, its H11B

    29. #342
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by deeveeance View Post
      I'm more of a measure twice, cut once kinda person, so I think I'll wait.

      Also, I noticed that TRS only has a 50w ballast option for the H11B Morimoto Elite HID kit. Is there a difference?

      Here is the kit I'm looking to order tomorrow. HID KIT
      Not sure what you mean?

      Screen Shot 2019-01-22 at 11.17.22 AM.jpg

      It's H11B.

      Make sure to select "None" for wiring harness if you have a SKBOWE.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    30. #343
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Not sure what you mean?

      Screen Shot 2019-01-22 at 11.17.22 AM.jpg

      It's H11B.

      Make sure to select "None" for wiring harness if you have a SKBOWE.
      Good info! Thanks shadow!

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    31. #344
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Not sure what you mean?

      It's H11B.

      Make sure to select "None" for wiring harness if you have a SKBOWE.
      My appologies, I was mistaking you for the user ([email protected]) with the images of his HID Kit above in this page of the thread.

      In the snip you provided, there is a 35W ballast and 50W ballast option, yet in the image [email protected] has above, his reads as 55W

    32. #345
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      Quote Originally Posted by deeveeance View Post
      My appologies, I was mistaking you for the user ([email protected]) with the images of his HID Kit above in this page of the thread.

      In the snip you provided, there is a 35W ballast and 50W ballast option, yet in the image [email protected] has above, his reads as 55W
      Gotcha, yeah the difference between 50/55W is just marketing jargon, it just means "over-driven" bulbs, vs 35W meaning "standard drive current". They are used interchangeably.

      Just a note, Chris mentioned to me that the 50W kit was very bright and he was thinking of swapping out to a 35W ballast. "Too bright" isn't in my vocabulary, but if you live in a city/have strict enforcement in your area, you might want to consider 35W.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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      I've been using a pair SKBOWEs and a 55W ddm rebase kit in my v50 for a ~18 months now. To echo everyone else, this was a night and day upgrade. However, one of my ballasts is now having a hard time igniting when it is really cold out. Instead of just replacing the bad ballast, I'm thinking about doing a projector swap. I've done a bit of reading, but am still sort of confused. I could bend the tab on those D3Ss projectors and use D2S bulbs correct? Also, will the projectors + D2S bulb + ignitor fit in the head light housing?

    34. #347
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      Quote Originally Posted by austratton View Post
      I've been using a pair SKBOWEs and a 55W ddm rebase kit in my v50 for a ~18 months now. To echo everyone else, this was a night and day upgrade. However, one of my ballasts is now having a hard time igniting when it is really cold out. Instead of just replacing the bad ballast, I'm thinking about doing a projector swap. I've done a bit of reading, but am still sort of confused. I could bend the tab on those D3Ss projectors and use D2S bulbs correct? Also, will the projectors + D2S bulb + ignitor fit in the head light housing?
      Projectors will alway give the best results, and SKBOWE can’t make cheap ballasts not cheap, but have you tried new bulbs? Life expectancy for bulbs at 55w is 12-24 months.

      Re: projectors, yep, bend the tab and D2S will fit in the D3 projector.

      On-bulb igniters should fit (it will be tight) if the ribs are trimmed out of the cover. I prefer using a D2S-to-AMP converter harness because they are smaller, and the igniter is not directly next to the hot bulb. I found a set of adapters which did not require trimming the cover at all.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    35. #348
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Projectors will alway give the best results, and SKBOWE can’t make cheap ballasts not cheap, but have you tried new bulbs? Life expectancy for bulbs at 55w is 12-24 months.
      No, I haven't. I will though. I figured I was sort of in the life expectancy of a chinese ballast. It's funny how cheaply made the ballast feels compared to the SKBOWE- thanks for building them.

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      On-bulb igniters should fit (it will be tight) if the ribs are trimmed out of the cover. I prefer using a D2S-to-AMP converter harness because they are smaller, and the igniter is not directly next to the hot bulb. I found a set of adapters which did not require trimming the cover at all.
      Oh great. I read some internet voodoo that on bulb ignitors were somehow better than using a D2S-to-AMP converter harness. Is this wrong?
      Last edited by austratton; 01-27-2019 at 12:05 AM.

    36. #349
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      Quote Originally Posted by austratton View Post
      It's funny how cheaply made the ballast feels compared to the SKBOWE- thanks for building them.


      Quote Originally Posted by austratton View Post
      Oh great. I read some internet voodoo that on bulb ignitors were somehow better than using a D2S-to-AMP converter harness. Is this wrong?
      Yes. The only advantage to having the ignitor on the bulb is reducing the length of "antenna" during ignition - by all other metrics, a separate ignitor is superior: lower temperatures, bigger components, no space/layout constraints.

      FWIW, the original AL OEM design for BMW used separate ignitors mounted in the housing and a short (6") length of HV wire to a socket for the bulb. But these were very beefy, 2-3 times the size of anything that comes on OEM or aftermarket these days, and they were designed to last.

      However (presumably) to save cost, OEMs began reducing the quality of the components in the ignitors, and with D1S building them onto the bulb. This is cheaper to produce per unit-headlight-assembly, and the cost of replacing the ignitor along with the bulb during maintenance is passed on to the consumer (with 150-$200/ea bulbs). On-bulb D2S ignitors should not be expected to last more than 1-2 bulbs (as Nick can attest to, probably others), as they are just the components from D1S built into a socket.

      The Morimoto on-bulb D2S ignitors are especially cheap, and 50/55W makes everything worse - bulbs run hotter, more current through choke, etc - so lifetime is further reduced. Unless you are looking at 35W OEM ballasts, I'd stay away from anything on-bulb.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    37. #350
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      So I'm stuck on the last screw to get my projector out. The bottom right, I have no tools that can get to it. Any suggestions?





      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
      Last edited by Idontlikemakingnames; 02-14-2019 at 09:46 PM.

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