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    1. #71
      Junior Member mathue's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Good luck finding an intact trim piece for the space between the top of the dash and the bottom of the windshield. If you still have all the broken pieces of the original, you might want to consider trying to glue them back together with Loctite 406, then reinforce the back of the cracks with some thin sheet brass or aluminium that you can typically pick up from hobby stores that sell products for model makers.
      How does one remove this bit of trim? Mine is intact but it's still rough and I'd like to get behind it to remove all the stuff left there by the car's previous furry occupants.

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    3. #72
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      Quote Originally Posted by thispunter View Post
      I put some elbow grease into the finish too-- claybar, Meguiar’s #7 Show Car Glaze, then wax.
      Notwithstanding the color mismatch on the back seat, its looking very good both inside and outside. You should be pleased.

      If you are still looking for a little more legroom with respect to the steering wheel, go back through my thread. About 4 years ago I discovered a couple of extra holes in the seat mechanism on my 142. It allowed me to reposition the seat back another 1-2" which helped with my upper leg perpetually banging into the bottom of my steering wheel when braking and shifting. The seat bottom frame changed during the production run so your car may not have the extra holes. But, it is worth a look if you need a little extra room.

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ject-Car/page4
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    4. #73
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      Quote Originally Posted by mathue View Post
      How does one remove this bit of trim? Mine is intact but it's still rough and I'd like to get behind it to remove all the stuff left there by the car's previous furry occupants.
      As I recall (it has been a while), it is just kind of shoved into place. There appear to be 4 clips (Volvo calls them clamps) along the bottom of the windshield opening that press up on the flat piece on the front edge of the trim and hold the whole trim piece in place. I honestly don't remember those clips / clamps on my car. Removal would involve pulling up and back on the trim piece. You need to do that while avoiding flexing the piece because that is going to result in a big 'snap'.

      What windshield do you have, gasket mount or bonded? If it is bonded, chances are that some of the bonding compound has softened and drooled down onto the trim piece and is adding some additional holding power. Equivalent to being glued in place.

      Unless its really bad, I would be inclined to leave it alone. Perhaps wait until you need to do a windshield replacement?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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    6. #74
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      Quote Originally Posted by mathue View Post
      I love the original seats.

      What did you do with the original steering wheel? If you still have it and don't want it I'd like to know what you'd sell it for.
      Thanks to VP for the OE seat covers. I'll probably keep the steering wheel as they're kind of hard to find and I'd like the option of putting it back on.

    7. #75
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Notwithstanding the color mismatch on the back seat, its looking very good both inside and outside. You should be pleased.

      If you are still looking for a little more legroom with respect to the steering wheel, go back through my thread. About 4 years ago I discovered a couple of extra holes in the seat mechanism on my 142. It allowed me to reposition the seat back another 1-2" which helped with my upper leg perpetually banging into the bottom of my steering wheel when braking and shifting. The seat bottom frame changed during the production run so your car may not have the extra holes. But, it is worth a look if you need a little extra room.

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ject-Car/page4
      Thanks. I did read that when you posted it. Being 6' I don't have any problem with legroom it was just the getting in past the steering wheel I was having trouble with.

    8. #76
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      Quote Originally Posted by mathue View Post
      How does one remove this bit of trim? Mine is intact but it's still rough and I'd like to get behind it to remove all the stuff left there by the car's previous furry occupants.
      If yours is like mine you actually have to push a screwdriver under it to get to the 6 or 8 screws holding it on. Be careful as it might be brittle and snap.



    9. #77
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      Quote Originally Posted by thispunter View Post
      If yours is like mine you actually have to push a screwdriver under it to get to the 6 or 8 screws holding it on. Be careful as it might be brittle and snap.


      That does not look anything like the trim piece that I have along the base of the windshield. On each end of mine there is an extension which overlaps the bottom of the trim piece on the A pillars. Also, there is a formed lip right at the outside 90 deg corner that I think is supposed to butt up against the inside edge of the glass. This is what mine looks like (although the lip does not really show)

      http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...black/1035329/

      The trim piece in your photo sort of looks like the trim I have along the top edge of the windshield; but, the curve looks different. This is the upper piece

      http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...black/1040034/

      It is nice that that at least the bottom trim piece is still avaialble. They seem to be originating with GCP and if that is the case you might be able to order them through your Volvo dealer

      Since your car is a 1970 and mine is a 1971, perhaps Volvo changed something in the production run.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    10. #78
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      That's interesting. Mine is a '72 and looks just like the '70 one in the pictures.
      http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...e&artno=682849
      Same product number
      Last edited by apico500; 07-05-2019 at 05:47 AM.

    11. #79
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      The 'easy' identification, at least for the parts in the Skandix listing that match with the parts manual, is that the bottom piece has tabs that extend out to match with the lower A pillars and the top piece has a number of holes in it which the lower piece lacks.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    12. #80
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      Luckily I was able to find an affordable M41 crossmember. But for those that haven't been so lucky, here are a couple of pictures illustrating the differences between the M40 and M41 crossmembers. Good pictures of the 140 M41 crossmember seem to be kind of rare on the internet.
      First shows the two; second, how the M40 crossmember doesn't fit the M41 transmission; and third, how the correct part fits.






    13. #81
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      We have overdrive!
      ~85mph @ 4k rpm (by my calculations)! It has no problem with the 4.10 rear.

      I've got it wired up with a momentary switch so that it automatically shifts out of OD when I shift out of 4th and doesn't shift back into OD unless I'm in 4th and hit the switch.




    14. #82
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      Looking good! The carpet looks fine to me.
      I think the only had one color blue for a couple of different blue interiors. Then they had an aqua/green.
      That said, black would look good also.
      On my 73, I'm using 74 striped blue/green seat covers & matching door cards. I'll need to take the cards to an upholsterer to work the window sweepers. But the seat covers have multi colored stripes, including black, so I may go with black carpet.
      Keep up the good work, the wheels look great on there also!!
      Steve

    15. #83
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      Whose momentary contact OD switch did you use and did you use the Bosch 1259750 relay?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    16. #84
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      Quote Originally Posted by 66Wildcat View Post
      Looking good! The carpet looks fine to me.
      I think the only had one color blue for a couple of different blue interiors. Then they had an aqua/green.
      That said, black would look good also.
      On my 73, I'm using 74 striped blue/green seat covers & matching door cards. I'll need to take the cards to an upholsterer to work the window sweepers. But the seat covers have multi colored stripes, including black, so I may go with black carpet.
      Keep up the good work, the wheels look great on there also!!
      Steve
      Are your seat covers OE from VP? I can't believe that stuff's still available. As long as it's all period correct maybe exact matching doesn't matter so much.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Whose momentary contact OD switch did you use and did you use the Bosch 1259750 relay?
      It's an Ebay find: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Long-Stalk-...53.m2749.l2649
      Thanks goes to you, by the way, as much of my internet research brought me to your posts.
      This one it turns out is just a standard momentary Lucas switch that's they've added length to the toggle. By the time you get to the end of it the throw is pretty long:
      https://www.revingtontr.com/product/...omentary-140mm
      The toggle shaft has a rubber sleeve on it to cover up their work.
      I also considered the regular Lucas toggle switch mounted on the dash but since I was able to find an OE OD column mount I went that direction.

    17. #85
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      [QUOTE=thispunter;7373051]Are your seat covers OE from VP? I can't believe that stuff's still available. As long as it's all period correct maybe exact matching doesn't matter so much.

      Yes, I got the front & rear set from VP, along with the matching front door cars / rear side covers. The only thing I'll need is to have an upholsterer make the rear armrest cover.





      Steve

    18. #86
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      Pictures from the VCOA national meet hosted by the SLO Rolling Central Coast Volvo Club:







      This was the first road trip I've taken and the car ran great. Well, mostly. It started popping out of O/D when the revs got below 3000 when I arrived and the whole way home. It turns out the oil level was low. Topped up the oil and all good now.
      Also, I've been swapping back and forth between HIF6 and HS6 carbs trying to figure out which is best. Well, neither work very well when the throttle shaft bushings are worn. The HS6's are worse (and more susceptible) so I sent them off for repair this week.

    19. #87
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      Low oil level in the transmission / OD will definitely cause the OD to drop out. If you haven't done so already, it would be prudent to clean the filters in the OD because that will contribute to the problem. However, if you don't know when the access cover was last removed (if ever) have a replacement gasket on hand. If its an original gasket it almost assuredly will not seal when you reinstall the cover.

      No update photos on your recent re upholstery work?

      Volvo's solution to create a rear mount shifter on the P1900 is hilarious. The shift into reverse or 2nd must seem a little strange. The P1900 is indeed a rare bird with a total production run that I recall was less than 70. Story goes that Volvo's new CEO was so disappointed with the quality of the build that he cancelled production after taking it for a weekend test drive.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    20. #88
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Low oil level in the transmission / OD will definitely cause the OD to drop out. If you haven't done so already, it would be prudent to clean the filters in the OD because that will contribute to the problem. However, if you don't know when the access cover was last removed (if ever) have a replacement gasket on hand. If its an original gasket it almost assuredly will not seal when you reinstall the cover.

      No update photos on your recent re upholstery work?

      Volvo's solution to create a rear mount shifter on the P1900 is hilarious. The shift into reverse or 2nd must seem a little strange. The P1900 is indeed a rare bird with a total production run that I recall was less than 70. Story goes that Volvo's new CEO was so disappointed with the quality of the build that he cancelled production after taking it for a weekend test drive.
      I took the whole transmission over to a shop in Burbank (rare for me) and had them look it over before I installed it. They replaced the cone clutch among other things.

      I'm done with my upholstery work. The mismatched back seat was the last thing.

      However, I do need to peruse your thread, 142Guy and check which suspension springs you ended up with. I'm becoming less and less happy with my progressive fronts. I think I'd like a little more travel front and rear.

    21. #89
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      I now have the Amazon Cars (UK) progressive fronts and single rate rears. I like them better than the Lesjofors (which just about everybody sells) that I previously had on the car. The Lesjofors combined with the IPD sway bars were just too rough on poor quality pavement. They are fine if you are on an autocross track. The Amazon Cars springs were quite spendy with the shipping costs and I seem to recall a forum member saying that they are no longer exporting them because of liability issues. I don't know whether that is correct so it might be worthwhile emailing them to confirm if you are looking for options. The car rides a little higher with the Amazon springs compared to the Lesjofors which means a nudge more wheel travel which is nice on crappy roads.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    22. #90
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      Yeah, it says so on their website that they don't ship to the Americas.
      Classic Swede sells progressive fronts with a 40mm drop. I might inquire about those.

      *Edit- 40mm, that's 1.5" which is what I have on there from V-Performance.
      Last edited by thispunter; 10-07-2019 at 09:34 AM.

    23. #91
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      I didn't know that they offered progressive springs. I thought all of theirs were single rate. The salient feature of Classic Swede for me was that they offered springs with a 100 mm drop in ride height. I know a little negative camber won't hurt a 140; but, I am thinking that much drop is going to give you a big increase in negative camber and I don't know whether there is enough adjustment to get it back to something reasonable. I also imagine the spring rate must be pretty high in order to keep the car from bashing into the bump stops all the time. Would make for an interesting ride.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    24. #92
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      100mm!!!...Krimony!...that may look good for pictures, but car will be incapable of driving over a painted line without bottoming...

    25. #93
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      I forgot this was the last thing that was being discussed on this thread. It turns out, much to my embarrassment, that I forgot to trim by bump stops when I installed the springs and thus the car spends a lot of time resting on them. Since there was only maybe an inch of travel before the upper control arm hit the bump stop I couldn't feel it happening. Except when I lost the front in the wet on a corner and got to wondering why.

      After cutting the bump stop in half I now feel it hit when going over dips. If I cut any more off I'm thinking other parts might start to contact each other.
      What have others done when installing lower springs? I've got bilsteins on both front and rear.

    26. #94
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      Which springs did you go with? If they are 40 mm shorter I am surprised that they are hitting the bump stops. I think my Amazon Cars springs are a nominal 25 mm lower in ride height and from visual inspection of the suspension with the car at rest it is well off the bump stops. Visual inspection of the bump stops after driving shows no marks so I see no evidence of contact in normal street driving. Are you doing the Rally Sport Challenge with your 140 ?

      Somewhere, I have recorded the ride height of my car with the Amazon springs measured at the little round steel bar in the jack points. The jack points are subject to damage, so perhaps not the best points for consistent comparison between cars; but, easy to get at. If you want, take a measurement and I will see if I can find my data and then we can do a comparison. My car is a little lighter than normal so I don't get the full drop of 25 mm compared to stock ride height; but, if your height numbers are way off my numbers it might be a sign that something 'is up' with the installation.

      Do you know what the spring rate is for your springs? Did you get a spring meant for a light car which is causing it to ride lower than expected if your vehicle weight is normal?

      Edit
      Ride height at the jack points from the end of 2016

      RF – 195 mm
      LF – 194 mm
      RR – 193 mm
      LR – -191 mm

      I can't find anything more up to date.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 02-02-2020 at 03:34 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    27. #95
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      I got these from John Parker and I can't find any spring rate data other than what's listed on his site:
      Our progressive rate front street springs are generally in the range of 230 - 250 lbs. per inch for the soft coils and 450 - 500 lbs. per inch for the stiff coils, with intermediate coils in between which progress in stiffness from the soft to the stiff coil range.

      My ride height (measured on my slanted driveway):
      RF - 159 mm
      LF - 162 mm
      RR - 175 mm
      LR - 181 mm

      This is measured using an old unit called "inches" and converted to mm so might not be the most accurate but you get an idea.

      I've got spacers on the rear, btw.

      I'm wondering if this might be an issue with the bilsteins, although, they should be fine with this set up.

      So, 142 Guy- you didn't do anything with your front bump stops?
      I've got this one cut in half-
      http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...e&artno=675253


      The springs along side the originals-

    28. #96
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      This is a photo of the Amazon springs before I installed them.

      Amazon Car's spring set.jpg

      The resistance to compression on a spring is a function of the wire gauge, the pitch (distance between individual coils) and the modulus of the spring wire. All steels have about the same modulus regardless of ultimate tensile strength so the variables on stiffness become the wire size and the pitch. For the same wire gauge, a spring becomes stiffer the greater the pitch. Look at my front coils. Including the top and bottom coil I have 8 coils over he length of the spring. Your VPD springs appear to have 9 coils over the length. Also, in the photo I am assuming the black spring is the OEM Volvo spring. The wire diameter on the VPD spring does not appear to be any larger in diameter than the Volvo spring (although hard to be certain from the photo). I don't have a photo of the Amazon versus OEM springs; but, the Amazon do have a perceptibly larger gauge wire. The other thing to notice is that the Amazon springs only have about 2 coils of low pitch wire (the top two) and the rest of the coils are larger / firmer pitch. The VPD springs appear to have more low pitch coils and a much more gradual increase to the high pitch coils. Trying to eyeball wire gauge and overall coil lengths from photos is highly risky; but, if the VPD springs and the Amazon springs have the same wire gauge, my assessment is that the VPD springs should be softer than the Amazon springs and if they have the same free length they would ride lower. If their free length is longer than the Amazon springs then they would have more preload on them when installed which would increase ride height.

      The notes I have from my install of the Amazon springs were that the wire diameter on the fronts was 15.3 mm and the free length of the fronts was 267 mm. If your fronts have a similar wire diameter and the free length is similar, the springs are softer and I am not surprised that your car is riding lower and that the suspension is compressing more on bumps which might explain the bump stop issue. I have those same bump stops that you linked and have no problem with contact.

      Just for fun, here is a photo of the Amazon front spring (right) and the Lesjofor front spring that I replaced with the amazon springs. The Lesjofors have a significantly higher spring pitch and I think the wire was about 2 mm larger in diameter. They are a lot shorter because the weight of the car barely preloads the spring at all. Those suckers are stiff - suitable for a autocross. Not so good for street driving. I got rid of them in part because the ride was so rough that my wife never wanted to go anywhere in the car. Truth is that on our roads they were shaking things loose and creating new rattles on the car.

      Just to be clear, those height measurements you provided are to the little round bar in the jackpoint and not the side flanges on the jackpoint? That is where I measured my heights. Also, my heights are with 185/65 15 tires. If you are running different tires with a different overall radius that will affect ride height.

      Front spring comparison.jpg
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    29. #97
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      Thanks for the info.
      I meant to put down my tire size when I listed my measurements (to the little round bar) but forgot. Same tire size.

      I'm looking into Classic Swede straight rate springs. He says he doesn't think progressive springs are necessary with the 40mm drop. I think my rears are ok, plus they're the double pig tail type.

      I'll measure spring diameters when I get home tonight. I should've done this all in the beginning, of course. Live and learn.

    30. #98
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      Progressive or multi rate springs are really about trying to maintain some comfort with a spring that has an over all higher spring rate. If the 40 mm shorter springs have the same spring rate as OEM front springs, then you definitely do not want progressives because the initial spring rate will be way to soft and you will likely end up on the bump stops permanently. Usually when you install shorter springs the shorter springs come with a significantly higher spring rate just to keep the car off the bump stops. Perhaps Classic Swede has selected a single rate that they hope will keep you off the bump stops; but, not rattle your teeth.

      I was searching through my old info to see if Amazon actually provided the spring rates for their progressive springs. They didn't; but, I found the packing slip from the original manufacturer of the springs who supplied them to Amazon. The company is Coil Springs (1989) Ltd - those Brits are really original with the naming and marketing!

      www.coilsprings.co.uk

      It appears that you can order direct from them. Perhaps you can get the equivalent of the Amazon springs directly from them or they can whip you up something that is just like the Amazon springs. Might be worth a contact to see what they can do for you.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    31. #99
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      Yikes- that coilsprings site. I couldn't get past the terms and conditions. Funny- in the copy they try to appeal to each lowered car owner stereotype.

      My original springs are 15mm thick and the V-Performance are 14.94/14.88 as best as I could measure. The difference might just be the layer of rust on the originals.

    32. #100
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      The web site did look a bit like it was set up by some 20 something males to appeal to other 20 something males; but, a lot of aftermarket auto parts web sites have that same look. I never checked out the T&C.

      If the VPD springs have a wire thickness that is 15mm or less, based upon the finer coil pitch that would make them a softer spring than the Amazon springs. If the free length is significantly less than 267 mm I would expect that you could be hitting the bump stops without too much provocation. I think the nominal drop in ride height with the Amazon springs was around 25 mm. If the VPD springs are softer and have a nominal 40 mm lower ride height, shaving the bumps stops might be mandatory. If you are considering the Classic Swede springs, it might be useful to see if they will provide you with the spring rates. If the springs are just as soft as the VPD springs, it may not address your bump stop issue. However, reality may be that unless you want to try something like the Lesjofor tractor springs, you may need to modify the bump stops anyway. Might be worthwhile asking Classic Swede about that. What do they do with their 100 mm springs - just remove the bump stops completely?

      Be aware that when vendors provide the spring rates for dual rate or multi rate springs, that may not be the effective spring rate. In the case of a stacked spring arrangement (small soft spring on top of a stiff main spring) with spring rates A (soft) and B (stiff), the effective spring rate does not start out at A and then jump to B. The initial spring rate is a blend of A and B (depends or the relative length of the springs) and gradually changes during compression (as the relative lengths of the two springs change on compression) up to the point that the soft spring goes into coil bind and at that point the spring is just the stiff rate. The VPD spring almost looks like it is a continuously changing pitch which is going to make the spring rate calculation complicated. The Amazon Cars springs are different. They appear to have around 1 - 1.5 turns of coils which are low pitch (soft) and then the rest are high pitch (stiff). More like a two rate spring rather than a continuously progressive wind. Because of the relatively short soft section on the Amazon spring I expect that they transition to fairly firm quite quickly on compression. I seem to recall some web site that provide guidance on determining the effective rate of multi rate springs
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    33. #101
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      I ended up going with the Classic Swede springs and put poly bushings in the lower control arms while I was at it. The wire diameter is about 15.44mm. After a few drives they seem to ride and handle really nicely with no bump stop contact- I drove over the same dips that caused problems with the previous springs and all good. The car doesn't lean nearly as much either (stock front sway bar). The ride doesn't seem at all punishing but this is, like I said, only after a week.
      Oh yeah, ride height was measured a couple of mm higher. From Dai @ Classic Swede: "...the spring rate is 450lbs giving you a wheel rate of roughly 225lbs."
      Below are from left to right, original, VPD, Classic Swede:
      Last edited by thispunter; 02-14-2020 at 10:20 AM.

    34. #102
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      Here are some other updates from the last four months. Original CA blue plates! The gauge cluster needs no introduction.




    35. #103
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      Indeed, those Classic Swede springs have a total of 6 turns and in the picture a much larger coil pitch than any of the various pitches on the VPD springs. Definitely stiffer than the VPD springs, so you should stay off the bump stops in most situations. Have you installed normal bump stops or are you still running with the cut down bump stops?

      Are they really progressives? I don't see any change in coil pitch over the length; but, with only 6 coils and a short length it is hard to spot - really requires measurement with a caliper.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    36. #104
      Junior Member mathue's Avatar
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      Looks awesome!

      Was that steering wheel already on it when you got it or did it have the early style OEM wheel in place?

    37. #105
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Indeed, those Classic Swede springs have a total of 6 turns and in the picture a much larger coil pitch than any of the various pitches on the VPD springs. Definitely stiffer than the VPD springs, so you should stay off the bump stops in most situations. Have you installed normal bump stops or are you still running with the cut down bump stops?

      Are they really progressives? I don't see any change in coil pitch over the length; but, with only 6 coils and a short length it is hard to spot - really requires measurement with a caliper.
      The 40mm Classic Swede springs are straight rate. I ordered new bump stops and cut them down an inch just to be safe.

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