New 142 Owner Introduction

[thispunter]

Hi,
I thought I'd do an introduction with some pictures. I had a wanted thread over in the classifieds and ended up getting what I was looking for.

It's a 1970 142s 4spd with a seriously baked interior and touched up or repainted exterior. The car came to me with these ARE (American Racing?) 15x7 wheels; what I think is an IPD header attached to 2.25 exhaust (measured at the end) and one muffler (kind of loud); and a Weber 32/36 carb.
It would start but bogged under throttle. I messed with the Weber a little and ended up buying some SU HIF6's attached to an aluminum intake manifold (he's got a 142 for sale with Weber DCOE's). With the SU's the car starts and runs fine.

That's where I am now. I've taken the ARE wheels off (tires are dangerously cracked) and put the stock ones on but the tires on these are three 195/60-15's and one 205/something-15. Why the odd size on the one rim I have no idea. I put it on the front right. I'm thinking about getting the curb rash cleaned up on the ARE's and using them after getting new tires (probably 195/60-15). It also came with four 15" Virgos (I think that's what they are).

Aside from a lot of little things like cracked lenses I'm going to start with getting all new door seals and window scrapers then maybe take a look at the exhaust. It exits on the right and I really don't like the sound. I think the best thing to do might be to get a stock 122 manifold along with a new stock system back with the two mufflers (VP Autoparts has a performance 2" system- maybe that'll work?).

Anyway,
Cheers and thanks for all the info I've already been able to research from your past posts.

Ted.

Oh yeah- original spare!

[66Wildcat]

Nice looking 142!
Good luck with it.
Steve

[sweediron970]

that's pretty clean!!! I'll be watching your thread...I've had my eyes out for one for a while, and I'm driving to Kansas this weekend to pick it up.

[twistedtree]

Looks good, and not all hacked up like some many.

If you want to go with original sized tires, check out Vredstein's Classic Sport line (I think that's the right name). They are one of the only tires available in the original 165R15 size. I also use them on a couple of benzes that take 185R14. Good tires if you want to stay original, though I know many people don't.

[thispunter]

Thanks for the tip, twistedtree.

I'll be pulling the radiator next. It looks like when I replaced the thermostat I inadvertently split the seam between the outlet pipe on top and the radiator body.

[ZZZZZZZ]

thispunter - I LOVE your car. LOVE it. I am subscribing. Keep your thread here or let me know if you create another for progress.

[ozzymanhattan]

Hot! Welcome to the family pics from under the hood?

[142 Guy]

Welcome to 140 world. I85/70 and 195/60 were the common go-to replacement tire sizes for 140s. 195/60 is probably more commonly available. The 185/70 are still available; but, you will probably pay a premium price since they seem to be priced for the niche vintage car market. 185/65 is also a very readily available size, the down side being a slightly smaller rolling radius with respect to the 165. You will end up with a drive ratio change. That may be nice if you are primarily an around town driver. Since it looks like you have an M40 rather than M41, that change might not be so nice for highway cruising.

If you plan to travel with a spare tire using the existing wheel well, keep that original spare. 185 or larger profiles will not fit in the spare tire well and have to be carried on the trunk floor. A few years ago BFGoodrich was still making radial TAs in 155 - 15 sizes (they were popular with drag racers for front wheels or some such application). I picked up one of those for a replacement spare. There is / was a Chinese tire company making 165-15 tires which would probably be acceptable for spares and there is Vredstein who make a good tire.

[thispunter]

I'll post some under hood pictures as soon as I have an hour to spend on photobucket. There are some things not connected or missing so any comments will be appreciated.
The car looks great in the pictures but up close you can tell the new paint was applied without much prep work. This is slightly worrying but at the same time I don't see any bubbling. The car was parked on the street in all weather (mostly sun- So Cal) without the window scrapers so the door panels are all wiggly. Still, no rust found (yet).
The driver's seat back was completely torn and the bottom was sacked so I've since replaced the back (with one with typical tear on shoulder) and was able to buy an OEM seat spring update kit from a fellow 142 owner in Antelope Valley.

But from the right side and 10' away this thing looks great!
136,000 miles, btw.

Thanks for the info, 142 Guy. With that front air dam I think the ARE wheels fit aesthetically so I'll probably just replace the tires with 195/60-15's.

[thispunter]

[142 Guy]

The piece of hose for the PVC system that is connected to the oil filler cap looks very non stock. In fact it looks like a previous owner just used an unformed piece of hose to make the connection with the result that the bend on the oil filler cap looks like it is seriously kinked with the result that I expect that there is little to no crankcase airflow through the engine. Its not the end of the world; but, something you may want to add to your list of things to address if your planning to keep the car.

[thispunter]

142 Guy- I was updating a coworker on my project progress and seeing the engine bay pictures that was the first thing he pointed out. Coincidentally, while buying bulbs and a relay at an auto parts store Sunday I was also checking for breather hoses with 90° bends- nothing in stock. I've since ordered the right part online.
I also connected the crankcase breather to the oil filler cap breather via a T fitting. I'm not sure this is right, though, because I think I've seen pictures of the brake booster vacuum line connected to the crankcase breather with a T. On mine, the brake booster vacuum hose is 3/8" and the crankcase breather is 1/2" so finding the right T is a little more difficult.

[142 Guy]

Here is the PVC layout from the parts manual.



According to the parts manual, all the B20s have a similar arrangement. The hose from the filler cap (#47) goes over to a nipple (#48) screwed into the intake manifold. The hose from the oil trap (18) goes over to a fitting on the air filter box. The drawing is a little bit confusing because it seems to show 18 going to the nipple on the manifold; but, I think you are to refer to 18,18B which goes to someplace on the air box. On the earlier B18 engines, the air flow direction is reversed and the oil filler cap connects to the filter box (hose 46). The T fitting (#13) above the oil trap belongs to the B18 engines. Your connection to the brake booster should have a port directly on the intake someplace, I think towards the front of the manifold.

On my B20E I completely eliminated hose #18 and just stuck a small K&N filter on the top of the oil trap.

[thispunter]

142 Guy- I think I'll do what you did. My SU's (luckily) came with an aluminum intake manifold that works with my existing headers. This manifold only has one vacuum port which I've connected my brake booster hose to. So that leaves one spot on the back of the airbox to which I'll connect my new valve cover breather hose and then put a K&N (1/2" ID?) on the oil trap.

[142 Guy]

I don't think that is going to work very well, or at all. At idle speeds, the airbox is not going to have enough vacuum to get any significant airflow through the engine. Even at highway speeds, the vacuum in the airbox will be miniscule unless your air filters are seriously plugged. I have another on which I installed MAP sensors at various points to get an idea of the pressure drop through the intake system. With an ambient air pressure of 100 kPa, the air pressure downstream of the air filter in 4th gear wide open throttle was over 95 kPa, so you would typically have less than 0.5 psi of vacuum trying to pull air through the engine.

Since you only have one port on the intake manifold, I think you would be better off to go to some place that sells npt fittings and get a T that would allow you to connect the PVC system and the booster to the same intake manifold port. The T should be sized to fit the nipple (#48) for the ventilation system. On the other arm of the T you would install a barbed fitting to couple to the brake booster. Don't try to connect the crankcase vent system to the manifold without #48. You will have way too much air flow and the engine will run lean.

Your other option is that you could switch to the arrangement used on the B18 engines where the line to the booster is connected to the T (item #13). This requires that you buy a bunch of new stuff (or pay a visit to a junk yard too scrounge the parts off of some B18)

[thispunter]

Okay, I think I understand- I need vacuum at the oil filler. I do still have #48 (with the restrictor) because the old Weber manifold had two ports.
Actually, a T or a Y with one male end to screw in the manifold and two female ends to accept the existing threaded fittings I have (restricted to oil filler, non-restricted to booster) might work(?)
I wonder if these are 1/4" npt?

Thanks for clarifying, by the way. I've been looking at pictures of both B18's and B20's not realizing the crankcase flow was reversed.

[tmtalpey]

At idle speeds, the airbox is not going to have enough vacuum to get any significant airflow through the engine. Even at highway speeds, the vacuum in the airbox will be miniscule unless your air filters are seriously plugged.

You'll never have vacuum in the airbox. Ever. And even if you did the last place you want engine vapors being sucked into is the front of the carbs. That spot is at ambient pressure, and is a intake for the breather. The air is filtered and flows freely. The suction side comes off the manifold, and any vapors go straight into the cylinders.

If you do have vapors *leaving" that airbox tube, it means the engine has much too much blowby to be overcome by the PCV vacuum (or the PCV valve is stuck). The only fix at that point is to tear into the head and/or block.

[LloydDobler]

Yeah fresh filtered air goes in the oil cap, and crankcase gases are sucked in to the manifold.

Nice 140! Can you tell if the air dam is some original accessory or an aftermarket/homemade item? It looks really decent and period correct.

[thispunter]

Here's the latest. I put a Y on the manifold and a K&N on the crankcase. It's funny, when you google B20 you get results having to do with engine swaps into previously housed B18's and these all route engine breathing like B18's (reverse of B20).
Sorry for poor quality. The light hasn't been great here in SoCal.

[rixt]

Personally I would not it like you did, you connected the vacuumhose of the brakebooster to the circulation system. Not sure if you booster will work as good as it should.
For the rest a wonderfull 142!

Regards,

Mathieu.

[142 Guy]

Your arrangement may or may not work depending on where you installed the nipple with the orifice that restricts air flow for the crankcase ventilation system (#48). If that restricting nipple is between the Tee and the oil filler cap, then that may be OK since it is restricting the air flow through the crankcase which is what you want. If the restricting nipple is between the manifold and the Tee, the nipple will reduce the vacuum available for the brake booster which will impair the effectiveness of the booster (the all disc multi piston brake set up on the 140 definitely benefits from brake booster assist). If there is no restricting nipple, your brakes may work fine; but, you are likely going to have way too much air flow through the crankcase which is going to muck up the operation of the carbs.

[thispunter]

The nipple that the hose going to the oil filler cap is attached to has the restrictor in it. 142 Guy- this was your suggestion, only instead of a T there is a Y.

[142 Guy]

That should work. Couldn't spot the location of the nipple with the orifice in the photo.

[thispunter]

That should work. Couldn't spot the location of the nipple with the orifice in the photo.

Right, I guess I shouldn't expect you to. Thanks for all the info and help.

Now, on to the brakes, wheels, tires, suspension, and window/door seals...

[thispunter]

First off- LloydDobler: I think the air dam is made by IPD. I saw what looked like the exact same one on the Skandix site (discontinued, of course).

Here's the latest:
Replaced left rear window and seal with ebay items. My right rear has the screw in latch but the left rear was glue on. The left latch came undone at some point and let the weather in destroying the seal. Luckily there was a left rear window with screw on latch on ebay along with a used seal (no longer available) from another seller. So that's done.

Replaced the front brake rotors and pads (girling type calipers) with items from VP. There's still a pedal modulation though. I'm hoping it's the rears. I had to spend some time seating the fronts so they spun true so maybe there's still some run out.

Replaced the front shocks with Bilstein Touring and then decided I really wanted HD so put Bilstein HD's on the rear. Maybe I'll put HD's on the front at a later date (when I put sport springs on).

I've needed tires this whole time but I've been waiting to make a decision on wheels first. Three sets came with the car as shown in previous posts- The ARE's (major curb rash, one is dented but hammered back), the Virgos (major rash and one is dented- still), and the black painted 4.5" stock wheels (with the most usable tires).
I decided on 780 multi-x sourced locally here with newish Michelin Defenders (205/60-15).
The first picture is a mock-up with the Virgos and the others are with the multi-x's mounted. I'm thinking the multi-x's with the 205's look like too much wheel.





I might try to sell the AREs and the Virgos just to free up some room around here, although, I'm not sure anyone would want them.

[sweediron970]

looks nice!!

would the virgo's be usable?? for a rally car that see's mostly dirt? i'd be interested in pic's

[thispunter]

Sweediron970- Send me a PM with your email and I'll send you pics.

[thispunter]

The window scrapers, trunk, hood, and door weatherstripping, and rear mudflaps all came in yesterday from VP Autoparts. I really have no clue how this all goes together... well, except for the mudflaps. It looks like the weatherstripping all goes in a channel. Do you slide it through or push it in with a screwdriver? Also, I've read the window scrapers require clips for '70 models but VP lists two types. Anyone have any idea which ones?

Thanks.

[142 Guy]

Regarding the window scrapers. The parts manual says that the early scrapers (part # 677195) which do not require clips ran up to 142 VIN 1123999. After VIN 112400 the parts manual shows that each scraper (part # 683 646) requires 5 little U shaped metal clips (part # 944102) that appear to fit inside the rubber channel on the scraper. I would have thought that the 112400 VIN number would have put the transition at the end of the 1969 production, meaning that your 1970 should have the later scraper with clips; but, checking your VIN will confirm which scraper you should have.

Funny thing - I have a 1971 so I definitely have the later version scraper with the clips. I bought new scrapers. I know I did not buy new clips and I have no recollection of prying the old clips out of the old scrapers and reusing them. My recollection is that the part of the scraper that clamps on to the door is formed from what looks like a piece of windlace which seems to grip the edge of the door skin pretty tightly without the use of the additional clips.

With respect to the trunk weather strip, start at one end and feed it into the channel and work it around the trunk lid. When you pull out the old weather strip, clean out the channel and make sure there is nothing in the channel that would catch the new weather strip. Lots of lubricant in the channel and on the weather strip is vital. Normally I like spray silicon; but, this is going to be a longish process and the carrier in most spray silicon products tends to dissipate fairly quickly meaning that you will be continuously respraying as you work the gasket around the lid. There are gasket installation lubricants available; but, some dish soap diluted with a little water also works and is cheap. Mist the length of the gasket with water to keep is slippery as you work the gasket along the channel. Messy; but, effective. As you work the gasket around the lid, the gasket will tend to pull out of the channel at the corners. If this occurs, you can use an old flat blade screwdriver to push the gasket back into the channel. You want an old screwdriver with rounded edges so that you reduce the risk or tearing the gasket. I actually use a soft plastic trim 'chisel' rather than a screwdriver to work the gasket back into place. Hood gasket - same process; but, much easier.


If you are getting water in your trunk, check the condition of the butyl sealant on the collector box at the base on your rear glass. Refer to the final picture in post #140 in this thread for the trouble spot.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...ject-Car/page3

[thispunter]

Thanks so much, 142 Guy. Great tutorial.
I will report back.

I wonder if the scraper clips are to keep the scrapers in place while rolling down snow caked windows?

Also, since I've had the car it's been under cover so not sure about any water in the trunk. That thread you're referring to, that is epic. The genesis of 142 Guy? I haven't read the whole thing yet.

[142 Guy]

I wonder if the scraper clips are to keep the scrapers in place while rolling down snow caked windows?

I am sure that the clips are there to provide additional retention. The outside edge of the scraper rests on the door skin which does a pretty good job of keeping it in place. In the case of freezing rain where the scraper became frozen to the glass surface, lowering the window might pull the scraper off the door skin without the clips. My car is now a casual / warm / dry weather driver so freezing rain is not going to present an issue. My scrapers have stayed in place since 2013 without the use of the clips.

If your car has the later style scraper, now that you know they are there you should be able to pry the clips out of the old scraper for re use in your new scrapers , providing that they are not too rusty. The clips are a part that was used in a number of spots on the 140 (under the windlace around the door opening and retaining the plastic parts around the dash) and were used on later model Volvos and appear to be still in production. The Volvo price for the clip is kind of out there (its a U shaped piece of metal!); but that is an OEM parts bin reality which reflects the cost of packaging, labeling, inventory, over head and all that other stuff. You might be able to source a suitable replacement clip from a vendor like Balkamp.

As an observation, the quality of the rubber on the scrapers is somewhat disappointing. I find that, at least on mine, they seem to develop a chalky finish rather quickly and my car is stored under a cover so it does not get a lot of exposure to the sun. You might want to treat them regularly with silicon spray or some other protectant to keep them looking good and slow down the aging process.

[thispunter]

I figured I'd give a little update. I've been reading the other 3 or 4 threads and it looks like we've got some 142's (and 4's) coming along nicely.
I replaced the trunk, hood, and passenger door seals along with both driver and passenger scrapers. What a pain. The passenger door seal was such a pain I've been putting off doing the drivers side.
That bad trunk seal was causing exhaust fumes to seep into the cabin so now I can drive with a clear head.
The scrapers slipped right on- no clips necessary. Thanks, 142 Guy for the reassurance.

The driver's door check/limiter was broken and the chrome door trim gone so I replaced the limiter along with a new piece of trim. It's really been a lot of little things that when done really help with the motivation to do more.
Other than that, I've been tuning the SU's (replaced intake gaskets, dash pot oil) so the car starts and runs pretty nicely.
Oh, and I got a set of OE seat covers from VP. What a find! I'll update this with pictures as soon as I have time. I'll probably wait to put them on until I order new foam.

The next thing I'm tackling is the suspension. When getting on the throttle sometimes it goes from pulling to the right to pulling to the left. I'm hoping this is related to worn torque arm bushings or trailing arm bushings or both. Either way, I'll be getting some lowering springs and will replace bushings at the same time. I don't have a press so I'll start with the easy ones (are there easy ones?).

[Shelbyk]

I figured I'd give a little update. I've been reading the other 3 or 4 threads and it looks like we've got some 142's (and 4's) coming along nicely.

Been keeping up with your thread, sounds like you're having more fun and making more progress than I am! Sounds like yours was farther along to start than mine though. Thought I'd introduce myself.. Got a 72 142E April 1st, saved from the junkyard. Been a hell of a ride so far, but everyone here has been so helpful that I've got everything I need just about now. Hopefully next week I can put in a good amount of work and actually DRIVE it - I've only ran the car once to make sure it DOES run (it did, luckily).

Glad to see yours is going well, might have to see if VP has any more of those seat covers, my drivers side is..well..looks like a bear mauled it. You mentioned snow covered windows, where are you located?

Keep it up!

Shelby

[thispunter]

You mentioned snow covered windows, where are you located?

Shelby

The snow covered windows are in my imagination-- I'm in Southern California. Near the mountains, though.

Here's the part number for the seat covers I ordered- 620-728-816-S

Good luck with your '72!

[apico500]

I replaced the window scrapers on my '73 142 and didnt find any clips. It doesnt seem that clips are needed, the scrapers fit really tight.