New 142 Owner Introduction - Page 2
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    1. #36
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      So I've been hard at work on the suspension: replaced all the rear bushings- torque arms, trailing arms, and panhard rod; put new lowered springs in- progressive fronts, straight rate rears; and replaced the front sway bar bushings.
      I've got the replacement front control arm bushings but I wanted to see how it sits on the springs so I'll save that job for another time.
      While under the front I noticed the middle tie rod is bent(!). And maybe the left too.

      When driving with the new springs I get a vibration under acceleration. I think (hope) it's the drive shaft support bearing so I've ordered parts (including all tie rods) from CVI.

      Pictures:
      • Interior shot with new seat covers next to old (still haven't done anything with the new seat covers)
      • Another shot of front interior
      • Tie rods
      • Old and new springs for comparison
      • Car as it sits today (actually, not really- I'm currently removing the drive shaft)









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    3. #37
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      That tie rod is interesting. I am almost thinking that a previous owner may have modified it because it is hard to visualize how you could bend it by hitting something without doing a lot of collateral damage (like marks on the cross member or the oil pan). That said, I am at a loss as to why you would want to do that. Perhaps a previous owner thought that they needed way more toe-in and bending the rod was their way of shortening it. Bizarre!

      Before you go through the seat cover replacement effort, assess the condition of the foam. I think for your version of the seat OEM replacement foams are available. They are not available for the leather seats in my 142E and I need to do something about that. The driver's seat, which gets the use, is definitely sitting lower than the passenger side. If you are going through the agony of all the undoing and redoing of hog rings replacing the foams, at least the bottom foam, could save some future effort.

      Noticed your dash. On the 140s, the dash was finished with either a faux wood grain vinyl wrap or a black wrap with a faux leather grain pattern. On my car, I applied a faux black carbon fiber weave vinyl wrap which sounds rather tacky; but, the carbon weave pattern is so subtle that you don't really notice it when it is installed. I used it primarily because it was all that I could find. You could probably do better with a little more patience than I had. The aluminum cover on the dash face is relatively easy to remove - it is held on with double sided tape. Of course, this presumes that you are not enamored with the aluminum look. If you are, then disregard the comments and soldier on!

      Nice progress.

      Edit

      Just noticed the tailpipe exiting on the right side of the car - definitely non stock. Do you know what type of exhaust system you have?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    4. #38
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      Thanks for the feedback, 142 Guy.
      The exhaust looks like a custom 2 1/4" job with a magnaflow muffler (one only). It's too loud so I'm going to get the 2" one from VP. I'll replace the 4:1 headers with a stock manifold (two piece) at that time.

      I will definitely replace the seat foam when I do the covers. Luckily, I was able to get a set of those retrofit springs-- the ones that replace the stock straps. So the seats don't sag too much.

      As for the dash, I actually bought an uncracked replacement but the metal structure is rusted. I thought I might be able to remove the vinyl only but after an hour of pulling little clips and still no closer to getting it apart I gave up. Double side tape you say? The dash face on my replacement is good too so maybe I'll see about removing it.


      Next up is to wait for the center carrier bearing and parts along with tie rods. The bearing I removed seemed to spin freely but the rubber support was worn out. I'm hoping this is the cause of my vibration. Would the panhard bar push the rear end so far out (with shorter springs) as to cause a vibration under acceleration? I'm still learning about car suspension.
      The other thing I'll be learning about is how to get the car to an alignment shop after replacing all of the tie rods.
      I think narrower wheels are in my future.

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    6. #39
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      I think that as long as the U joint mounting flange on the back of the transmission and the input to the differential remain parallel in both the horizontal and vertical plane, the horizontal displacement of the back axle caused by a too long panhard rod should not lead to driveshaft vibration. The simple horizontal displacement caused by a too long panhard rod would not normally alter the angles. However, introducing shorter rear springs means that the rest of the car is now sitting lower relative to the differential which can alter the angle of the differential flange relative to the transmission flange. So, the horizontal offset is not the problem; but, it is a symptom. If the flanges are out of alignment removing the horizontal offset with an adjustable panhard rod will not bring them into alignment. If the shorter springs have caused a problem with the flange angles on the driveshaft, the typical solution is to purchase or fabricate adjustable torque rods. Adjusting the length of the torque rods rotates the whole back axle in its mounting altering the differential flange angle and allowing you to bring the two flanges back into alignment.

      My rear springs are 25 mm shorter than stock. I haven't noticed any increased vibration; but, I have a bit of a howl from the back and I have read that incorrect flange angles can load the differential pinion leading to noise (full disclosure - that is something I read on the internet as opposed to something I actually know; but, everybody knows that in a post fact world the internet is truth, right?). Checking the flange angles is probably something I should do. Unfortunately, in order to check the angles the suspension has to be loaded (car resting on its tires). This pretty much means the measurements have to be done with the car on one of those ramp style hoists (or you have to be some odd character from Flatland that can slide under the car while it is on the ground).

      Unless your springs are quite short, I am inclined to think that they are not the source of your vibration problem. However, ultimately only flange angle measurements will confirm whether you have created a problem for yourself with the shorter springs. Make sure that the U joints are not loose and make sure that the driveshaft / U joints are phased correctly. Incorrect phasing will result in vibration even if the angles are perfect and if the angles are not perfect it will make it even worse.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 05-30-2017 at 11:32 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    7. #40
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      Thanks for the explanation, 142 Guy. My powers of reasoning tell me you are not sharing any "alternative facts".
      Although, something I cannot find on the internet- drive shaft yoke phasing. I have a picture of the driveshaft assembly in my workshop manual but no references to alignment or phasing. I marked mine before removal and dry fitting it yesterday revealed the front yoke is about 45° out of phase with the other two. Once I get the bearing on and the two halves loosely fitted together I'll clean them off and look for a factory mark. Otherwise, I think I'll put them back together the way they came off and see if there's still a vibration.


      *Edit:
      Searching "prop shaft" brings up a thread talking about matching a 122 driveshaft to the picture in the green book. Maybe I'll try that first.
      Last edited by thispunter; 06-02-2017 at 10:59 AM.

    8. #41
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      This reference has a nice paragraph talking about aligning the yokes on the end of each driveshaft to achieve correct phasing.

      http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...line-101.shtml

      You are correct that the service manual does not address drive shaft phasing. Its curious that the manual covers some silly things like 'unscrew the screw ....' ; but, totally skips things like the driveshaft phasing. I guess you are supposed to know that, even if you could not figure out that you needed to 'unscrew a screw' to get something off. My reference was to the first photo in the green book service manual on the section on the drivetrain. It is a picture of the driveshaft. Pay attention to the alignment of the 3 U-joint yokes. If your yokes are aligned exactly like the yokes in the photo, then you are phased correctly.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    9. #42
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      Whew, quick update:
      Replaced center driveshaft carrier bearing, torque rod bushings (replaced my already new rubber bushings with poly), transmission mount (heavy duty 240 type), tie rods (need to get alignment), and most importantly (apparently), motor mounts. The driver's side motor mount was sheared like Shelbyk's. I think the motor mount failure was the cause of my vibration. Anyway, vibration gone.
      Oh yeah, exhaust. Replaced 2.5" custom job with 2.25" from VP. Except for the headers, that all came out in one piece.
      Thank you, imgur.

    10. #43
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      What year 240 transmission mount did you use? Is it a drop in fit? I installed a new transmission mount when I put my car back together and one of the end plates sheared off in less than a year. I replaced the mount; but, I am thinking that it may also have sheared, although it did last for 3+ years. If I am going under there again I would like to fix it for more than a couple of years.

      Eliminating the oversize tail pipe tip is an improvement. That look has a little too much rusty 1997 Honda Civic with decals persona.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    11. #44
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      What year 240 transmission mount did you use?
      Sorry, I was in a hurry and got that wrong. It's from IPD for the 164.

    12. #45
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      I should pause and think before I post. The exhaust I removed is 2.25" and the one I replaced it with is 2". Although, those bends on the old one squish it down to 2".

      Anyway, with the whole photobucket debacle and previous pictures no longer available I thought I'd post some before and after shots of the wheel evolution.
      Here is stock, lowered with multi-x's, and finally with Dunlops:




    13. #46
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      I'm losing track of what I've done compared to what I've listed in this thread.
      The main thing I did recently was replace the dash. The one in the car was seriously cracked. This car really sat out in the sun and baked. Virtually every non metal part I encounter is brittle, broken, shrunken, or cracked. The next things to replace are the windshield washer reservoir bottle and the interior trim pieces that surround the windshield.

      Other things I've done to the car recently:
      Made spacers for the rear suspension so it doesn't sag with the new lower springs.
      Silver wiper blades-- really make a difference in the look.
      Cheap silver radio antenna-- same note as above.
      New SUHIF6 carb linkage.
      Tightened up the shifter with hardware store bushes per thread somewhere on here.
      New trunk lid air springs.
      New brake lines all around.
      Retractable seat belts!

      Speaking of dash and antenna, the cool stock AM radio that came with the dash has a different plug than my speaker. Actually the wiring is kind of a mystery to me. There's the two bonded wires terminating in a forked plug (I assume speaker) and one red wire coming out of the radio. The speaker attached to the old dash has a plug similar to a those small quick disconnect battery tenders. No manual or parts diagram I've seen shows a radio so this one will sit on the back burner for a while.

      Before and after dash pictures:





      Other pictures:



    14. #47
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      Nice job with the dash - distinct improvement. Good luck finding an intact trim piece for the space between the top of the dash and the bottom of the windshield. If you still have all the broken pieces of the original, you might want to consider trying to glue them back together with Loctite 406, then reinforce the back of the cracks with some thin sheet brass or aluminum that you can typically pick up from hobby stores that sell products for model makers. You may have luck finding intact covers for the A pillars. If the windshield washer bottle is the square one that sits in a firewall mounted bracket near the brake booster, I think reproductions are available.

      Where did you get silver wiper blades? I found some silver reproductions for the 140 from an English supplier; but, they were expensive and with shipping they became super expensive and they did not have refills which turned them into a non starter at their price. Right now I have black metal ones that I have disguised with silver paint which isn't very durable. I would love it if there were polished stainless steel ones available like they have for classic North American vehicles.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    15. #48
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      Wiper blades are from RockAuto-- ANCO 2015 Vintage: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....496734&jsn=370
      So far they've only been swishing dirt back and forth so I have no idea how effective they are.

      I actually ordered the trim pieces from our last resort- http://www.gcp.se/en/
      I should know Monday if they are in fact right.

      The washer bottle mounts at the front next to the radiator on a metal bracket. It's got a kind of V shape molded in to the plastic that slides on to the bracket. The part number matches some that are available but I'll know for sure when Mattias from VP gets back to me.

    16. #49
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      I think your referring to the Coolant overflow bottle. The Window Washer fluid is typically next to the Brake Booster.

      Check the last picture of this BringATrailer link

      https://bringatrailer.com/2013/11/05...o-142s-2-door/
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    17. #50
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      Quote Originally Posted by thispunter View Post
      Wiper blades are from RockAuto-- ANCO 2015 Vintage: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....496734&jsn=370
      So far they've only been swishing dirt back and forth so I have no idea how effective they are.

      I actually ordered the trim pieces from our last resort- http://www.gcp.se/en/
      I should know Monday if they are in fact right.

      The washer bottle mounts at the front next to the radiator on a metal bracket. It's got a kind of V shape molded in to the plastic that slides on to the bracket. The part number matches some that are available but I'll know for sure when Mattias from VP gets back to me.
      Excellent tip on the wipers. I will check to see if the local vendors have the ANCO 2015. If not, its time for an order to Rock Auto. Interesting that they look just like the ultra high $ wipers from England.

      If GCP has the trim pieces available that would be the hot ticket. Its nice that there now seems to be a lot more reproduction trim pieces available for the 140 than there were when I started collecting pieces for my car 10 years ago. Even if its pricey its better than trying to glue stuff back together.

      Scaramoucheii is correct. That bottle out front by the radiator is your coolant overflow bottle distinguished by the pressure cap that it should have on it.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 01-07-2018 at 01:15 AM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    18. #51
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      THATS's why I've been spraying coolant all over my windshield!

      Actually, that BAT Volvo is a '71, mine's a '70.

      Here's an older picture:

    19. #52
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      Interesting. The 1977 - 1972 parts manual does show your V mounting bracket as an alternate to the basket style firewall mounting on my 1971. However, the parts manual shows mounting on the right firewall which I assumed to be a right hand drive modification. Same tank for both mounting brackets which explains the curious V shaped indent on my washer tank. The parts manual does not differentiate the bracket used by chassis number which is normal when the change was made by model year so maybe the two brackets and different mounting location ran concurrently.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    20. #53
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      Update good news and bad: The trim piece that I ordered form GCP is correct, the window washer reservoir that I ordered from VP is incorrect (at least for my application). VP shows a picture of a bottle with a 'V' groove in it on their website but the bottle I got came with a metal basket and is smooth all around. I assume the basket (firewall) mounted one is more prevalent.

      On the other side of the engine bay, the master cylinder finally failed. I was moving the Volvo out its parking place so I could service my other car and the pedal went to the floor. luckily I just replaced the parking brake shoes and cable. I got the correct master cylinder form VP but the brake fluid reservoir they include in the kit again doesn't work for my application. I just reused my old one but take note anyone with a similar car (I haven't done the research-- maybe Girling system with 3 3/16" wide mounting m/c).


    21. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by thispunter View Post
      Update good news and bad: The trim piece that I ordered form GCP is correct, the window washer reservoir that I ordered from VP is incorrect (at least for my application). VP shows a picture of a bottle with a 'V' groove in it on their website but the bottle I got came with a metal basket and is smooth all around. I assume the basket (firewall) mounted one is more prevalent.

      On the other side of the engine bay, the master cylinder finally failed. I was moving the Volvo out its parking place so I could service my other car and the pedal went to the floor. luckily I just replaced the parking brake shoes and cable. I got the correct master cylinder form VP but the brake fluid reservoir they include in the kit again doesn't work for my application. I just reused my old one but take note anyone with a similar car (I haven't done the research-- maybe Girling system with 3 3/16" wide mounting m/c).
      Nope - the VP version does not appear to be correct for firewall mounting. From your photo, the mounting holes appear to be along the long axis. As you can see from this early photo from my car, the OEM mounting is along the narrow axis of the bracket.

      IMGP1303_comp.jpg

      In fact, I don't think there is space on the firewall to mount the VP bracket. Is the original V bracket on your car tack welded or screwed on? Perhaps the VP bracket is meant as a replacement.

      CVI looks like they might have the correct bottle.

      http://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/arti...40164-245-rear

      However, CVI has temporarily suspended business because they were flooded out. They are supposed to be back end of this month or in March. You could try an email them to confirm that their replacement bottle has the correct V.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 02-19-2018 at 09:02 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    22. #55
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      That's interesting. I wonder what the VP bracket fits?
      My bracket screws on to the sloped inner fender and a similar one appears to be available new from VP under the Amazon listing. Although, I think the Amazon reservoir mounts to the driver's side of the engine bay. I have no idea how this other bracket that came with my reservoir could attach to anything other than a vertical surface.

      It turns out the correct "V" groove reservoir itself (671723) is available new from VP-- Mattias confirmed it's the right one.
      Oh well. To anyone looking to replace their bottle and pump- just order them separately.

    23. #56
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      Quick update:
      Front seat covers with new foam installed and door cards repaired. The difference is amazing with the new foam. I had to lower the seats down to their lowest setting and even then I'm at my own max height.
      I'm still waiting for replacement carpet from VP and also found some rear seat covers available. The seat back is my stock blue/green but the only seat bottom I could find was straight blue (like the one currently on Bringatrailer- https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-volvo-142s/ which is actually the very same car linked above by Scaramoucheii). I'll just have to live with a mismatched rear seat in the spirit of having new upholstery as this could be my only chance to buy NOS. Actually, come to think of it, that used driver's seat I got to replace the ripped to shreds original might be the other blue. Different but still in the same family. See before picture (first one)-

      Does anyone else have trouble seeing out of the side view mirror? This was a problem before as well but I'm just now remembering to ask.




      Last edited by thispunter; 04-14-2018 at 12:54 PM.

    24. #57
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      Work on the interior continues. I got the carpet kit from VP and cleared everything out of the car. I found the rust (every car has some somewhere, right?). It doesn't look like it goes all the way through, though-- I put a wire brush to it and there seems to be solid metal underneath. I'm currently researching POR-15 and the like. Also, sound deadening.
      The rear seat back cover came in too but no such luck on the seat bottom. I'm waiting to hear back from VP on whether they have a blue one for a '72. The rear side panels are the only thing left on the interior and fingers crossed VP said blue/green will come in this fall.







    25. #58
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      If you don't have any metal perforations, then some chemical rust remover and POR 15 (or whatever) as a finish should do the trick. I have used POR 15 on some items (brackets and the like) and it seems to provide a durable coating. It is available in colors other than black. If you are going to use POR 15, pick the absolute driest low humidity day. POR 15 moisture cures and high humidity will cause a too fast cure making application exceedingly difficult if you are using a brush. The fast cure also results in bubbles forming in the finish which don't go away. All based upon personal experience trying to use POR 15 on a day when the humidity was over 80%. This probably isn't a problem for your application; but, POR 15 is UV sensitive (causes deterioration in the finish) so anything exposed to light requires some kind of top coat.

      As to your potentially mismatched back seat covers. Consider spray on fabric paint / dye. I was skeptical; but, with proper preparation the good stuff seems to be remarkably durable. You may be able to get a dye / paint that matches one of the items or paint both to match the front. The best selection of fabric paints / dyes is probably from a professional auto paint supplier. Some of the stuff at the local shop here is custom mixed and filled so not 'off the shelf'. I am not sure what the distinction is between dyes and paints. They both come in spray cans and seem to have the same uses.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 07-15-2018 at 11:40 AM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    26. #59
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      As always, thanks for the quick reply, 142 Guy.
      Did you remove what looks like OE sound deadening when you redid yours? Those perforated pads you can see in my pictures?

      I'm currently looking at Eastwood rust encapsulator. Wire brush the rust, clean it well, then paint with the encapsulator. I looked at their rust neutralizer and in the Q&A section it was recommended that someone just use the encapsulator, not the neutralizer on floorboard surface rust. Of course, wire brushing might take me down to the driveway followed by a new google adventure.

      Still waiting on word from VP...

    27. #60
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      Yes I removed the original sound deadening pads because I did a complete strip and repaint of the car. I removed the pads the hard way (heat). If you can access some dry ice (or liquid N2 - too risky for me) the quick and clean way to remove is freeze it and it fractures easily.

      I have used Eastwood Encapsulator and it is a pretty good product. It is good for use inside the rockers where you can't really access the area to do rust removal. It is much thinner bodied than POR 15 so definitely would not be as durable. As I recall, when I used it I top coated with Eastwood Extreme chassis black using the encapsulator instead of the chassis black primer. I still think the POR 15 gives you a heavier coat than the combination of the Encapsulator and the Extreme Chassis Black.

      Unless you want to avoid the work, for those rusted areas under the galvanized covers where you can access it I would be inclined to use one of those chemical rust removers, neutralize and then treat with Encapsulator and a suitable top coat or use POR 15.

      Tops in the organic rust removers is molasses. Not the kind you buy at the grocery but the stuff that they use as a feed supplement for livestock. Much cheaper than the stuff you use for making cookies! It is incredibly slow and under the correct conditions can go off (ferment) in which case you will need a niosh respirator for the clean up unless you can supress your gag reflex. Not for this kid! Muriatic acid is fast and fairly cheap. Dilute one part muriatic acid into three parts water (always acid into water). Acid cleaning can result in hydrogen embrittlement of the steel. A problem in stressed components. Not a big deal on the floor pan. Clean up and neutralizing after the acid has done its job can be a hassle. Gloves and goggles are a must. There are also other less aggressive rust removers.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    28. #61
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      Floors are POR'd and carpeted. Luckily my sound deadening came up pretty easily. I used POR-15 based on the above suggestion and it works really well.
      I found two small rust holes and patched these with POR-15 patch. This stuff works so well I used it to put a chipped piece of my concrete driveway back in place.



      I used Noico 80 Mil sound deadening.


      I should've gotten black carpet-- this blue doesn't match at all. I ordered some black mats from VP and with the center console on top of the trans tunnel hopefully it shouldn't be too bad.



      Still waiting on word from VP on the rear seat bottom upholstery and side panels.

    29. #62
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      If you want black carpets or a different blue, there are carpet spray on paints and dyes (I am never too sure about the dye versus paint thing when it comes in a spray bomb). They work remarkably well, although if you want to go to a lighter blue to match the seats that may be iffy. Going darker is no problem. If you want to try do it before the carpets get dirty. You will still need to clean / shampoo the carpets to get rid of any residual production chemicals before dyeing / painting; but, you won't have to deal with dirt. I dyed my original brown carpets in my 142 E using Rit dye. I did them in a plastic garbage can with hot water. I kept approximately the same color, I just wanted to deal with some fading / non uniformity. The result came out really good; but, it took me forever to get the carpets clean prior to the dyeing. It took four passes with a hot water carpet shampooer before dirt stopped coming out of the carpet. I was surprised because the OEM carpets are a really short pile and I didn't think they would retain that much dirt.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    30. #63
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      @thispunter: To be perfectly honest, I'd really consider returning the carpet and getting the black kit. You've done a stellar job so far and turned this car into something to admire, particularly the floorboard cleanup and dashboard work (I looked over your photos again and am super impressed). The color difference in that blue carpet would drive me absolutely batty. I had a similar issue trying to purchase carpet off of eBay -- I bought a black kit from an Australian outfit that was advertised as being for a short-shifter '72 car. Not the case (made for the long-shifter instead), and had to get a refund. For Round 2, eventually went with a black kit from Rock Auto for a 242. Very happy with the result. Your blue kit is clearly better made than mine and intended for the 142, it's just the color that's off. Just think about it -- it needs to be right for you. My $0.02.
      Last edited by MonzaA4; 08-21-2018 at 09:23 AM.

    31. #64
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      Many thanks for the input, 142 Guy and MonzaA4. Great reasoning both.
      It honestly didn't occur to me to return the carpets. Maybe since I've had them so long. Now that they're installed with stick-on backing and holes poked through for screws, the return option is out. And the stick on backing kind of prevents them from being submerged in liquid.
      I still think the paint/dye idea is good, though and it looks like SEM products makes aerosol vinyl/carpet paint. I might even try something different like graphite.

    32. #65
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      Before I finish the parcel/hat shelf upholstery I need to figure out the speaker situation. The previous owner installed two 6x9's on each side of the stock speaker so there are holes in the metal and fiberboard. I figured I'd remove the newer speakers and cover up the holes with the new hat shelf carpet piece leaving the original speaker. Unfortunately, the original speaker and cover have seen better days.

      I think I can epoxy the mounting screws back onto the cover and reuse it but the speaker is torn. Does anyone know what the spec's are of the rear speaker?

      I googled but came up with nothing and even visited Best Buy but nothing seems to match.

      The oval speaker outline on the cover measures 6.75" x 4.75" and the mounting holes are about 5.125" x 4.125". Are they 5x7's? Is it so simple that no one has ever needed to consult a forum?







    33. #66
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      107
      Wow, it's almost been a year.
      I found an 8 OHM (I think) speaker and just drilled new holes in my existing grill to make it all work.




      Also, the seat cover I got from VP ended up being for a 144, not a 142. On the 4 door model the rear seat has rounded edges so you don't catch it when getting in and out using that rear door. My upholsterer was able to use part of the old seat cover material to make up the difference. It's still the wrong color but I knew that.




      More recently, I got fed up with being pinned between the steering wheel and the seat when getting in the car so got a smaller steering wheel. I usually like stock steering wheels but I'm not crazy about the early 140 ones. I'd prefer the bow tie type but I'm pretty sure they won't fit my column and plus my legs would still get pinned. Like I mentioned, the early 140 columns are different than pretty much every other model so finding an aftermarket hub was a challenge. What I ended up with is a Luisi hub, Luisi to Moto Lita adapter and a Moto Lita wheel. Similar to MonzaA4's but mine started out with a wood veneer. I wanted a thinner wheel but don't think the wood works with a Volvo (maybe an Alfa or Jag) so put a leather cover on it.
      I should add that with the Luisi hub and adapter there's sufficient clearance from the turn signal lever.


    34. #67
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      107
      The bigger story is I got a rebuilt engine and put that in.


      The back story on that is:
      I was collecting some mild performance parts with the idea of working on the top end. I found a late carbed big valve head with the ridges on the intake side polished away, an intake manifold with the same ridges also polished away, and bought a K cam.
      After installing all this along with a Cloyes timing set the engine smoked pretty badly. This was not just on the overrun but when giving it gas too. The problem seemed to be that with the reconditioned head this exacerbated worn cylinders.
      I started pricing an engine rebuild after this and ended up finding an already rebuilt B20 on Ebay for a reasonable price. I put my head on this engine and Bob was your uncle.
      Oh yeah, I got some material machined off the fly wheel too.




      I'm still running the engine in now (keeping it under 4k) but the nagging next step seems to be O.D. The values of these still aren't really climbing and mine has had a lot of cheap body repairs and paint touch ups so I don't want to throw too much money at it. With that in mind, I was able to find someone who wanted to trade his M41 for a good B20 block and my original engine was just taking up space. He said it was a D-type but after I got it home I looked and it plainly says J-type. I dropped it off at a local transmission place that actually rebuilds these overdrives and am waiting on the prognosis.
      Now I just need the crossmember. I'm thinking I'll just modify the M40 one unless anyone has the correct one for sale...

    35. #68
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      107
      I put some elbow grease into the finish too-- claybar, Meguiar’s #7 Show Car Glaze, then wax.



    36. #69
      Junior Member mathue's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Location
      Dublin CA
      Posts
      65
      Quote Originally Posted by thispunter View Post
      I put some elbow grease into the finish too-- claybar, Meguiar’s #7 Show Car Glaze, then wax.


      It's looking quite nice!

    37. #70
      Junior Member mathue's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Location
      Dublin CA
      Posts
      65
      Quote Originally Posted by thispunter View Post
      Wow, it's almost been a year.
      I found an 8 OHM (I think) speaker and just drilled new holes in my existing grill to make it all work.




      Also, the seat cover I got from VP ended up being for a 144, not a 142. On the 4 door model the rear seat has rounded edges so you don't catch it when getting in and out using that rear door. My upholsterer was able to use part of the old seat cover material to make up the difference. It's still the wrong color but I knew that.




      More recently, I got fed up with being pinned between the steering wheel and the seat when getting in the car so got a smaller steering wheel. I usually like stock steering wheels but I'm not crazy about the early 140 ones. I'd prefer the bow tie type but I'm pretty sure they won't fit my column and plus my legs would still get pinned. Like I mentioned, the early 140 columns are different than pretty much every other model so finding an aftermarket hub was a challenge. What I ended up with is a Luisi hub, Luisi to Moto Lita adapter and a Moto Lita wheel. Similar to MonzaA4's but mine started out with a wood veneer. I wanted a thinner wheel but don't think the wood works with a Volvo (maybe an Alfa or Jag) so put a leather cover on it.
      I should add that with the Luisi hub and adapter there's sufficient clearance from the turn signal lever.


      I love the original seats.

      What did you do with the original steering wheel? If you still have it and don't want it I'd like to know what you'd sell it for.

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