please help...cooling fan issues....i think
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    1. #1
      Junior Member
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      please help...cooling fan issues....i think

      Hey all!

      2007 S40 2.4i

      i bought this car with a blown headgasket and just finished replacing it with a new waterpump and tstat. it was the upper hose that blew and caused it to overheat and blow the gasket.

      it runs great now, the temp gauge runs perfectly in the middle (which i think is normal for this car), takes about 5 min to warm up and can idle in the driveway for 30 min....even drove 20 min with the gauge not moving from the middle.

      however upon my return trip home on this beatuiful 50 deg day i noticed the temp gauge climbing up a bit...getting about 3/4 of the way but not to the red range. i turned on the heat and the gauge quickly (10-20 sec) drop back to the middle. AC was on and i could hear the compressor short cycling and at that time, i felt the cooling fan spinning slowly, barely moving any air but it was spinning.

      i have since tried to duplicate the problem...the AC is short cycling still and the fan isnt coming at all...it still spins free and has 12v going to it...not sure about the trigger wire (not even sure what the signal/triggger wire should read).

      i am going to pop in a new coolant temp sensor just because it is cheap and easy but i am not a big fan with throwing parts at things.

      how can i let it run for 30 min and take it for a 20 min drive and not have any temp issues and then suddenly have the gauge climb up?

      how can i test the fan?

      i swear the AC worked the other day when i took it for a quick spin but am now questioning that....the car idle drops pretty good when the compressor kicks in.

      could a high pressure AC switch cause the fan to NEVER come on?

      i am contemplating bringing it to a shop to hook up the VADIS...which drives me insane to even consider.

      please help me figure this out...i thought everything was great last week and the car was finally fixed, now i flustered beyond belief....thanks all!

      Mike

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    3. #2
      Junior Member Okidiver's Avatar
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      I'd say you are on the right track--easy, cheap stuff first. You could have a radiator clog, but sensors first--keep us posted.

      Those blown hoses have killed engines--upper/lower I forget--don't think those temp gauges work like the old days either...
      Rapid Rick...I roll
      2008 C30 Matt Pearl Gold OSD-customized w/Elevate tune
      2015 V60 Seashell Metallic w/Platinum, BLIS, wood

    4. #3
      Realistically, if you have some air in the system it could be working it's way out. An air bubble will read significantly higher in temperature than coolant will. Time will show whether it sticks around or not.

      The temp gauge sits in the middle between 193*F (if I recall correctly) and 213*F (if I recall correctly) and will go higher if it goes up beyond that, so it's a pretty wide range for being ok.

      First thing to do is check/replace your fuses and relays for your coolant fan. It's a huge powerdraw so it's in the box in the engine bay. Check it out, even cheaper than a ECT sensor.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

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    6. #4
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      Update..I was watching the ect sensor readings last night and think I might have found something. First off, the gauge stayed in the middle from 185-235 deg...kinda weird but ok. I guess Volvo wanted the gauge to stay in the middle. I then tapped on the fan controller (small credit card sized metal box mounted on fan shroud) the Smith suggested was the culprit...a few taps and the fan came on. Temps cameright down and AC stopped short cycling too. There must be something loose or faulty with it, a new fan assy is coming Monday and suspect my problems w be cured. Stay tuned for the update,.,

    7. #5
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      Also, car doesn't have any relays for the cooling fan and only has one huge 80 amp fuse that was good....that 80 amp fuse looks like a half-inch thick brass strap that could withstand A small nuclear meltdown

    8. #6
      Oh yeah that's right, the correct temps 185-235, I remember now because my truck would redline at 235 and my cobalt had a 185 thermostat in it....realistically, this is the safe range the coolant system can operate in nearly any condition and can go higher or lower based on extenuation circusmstances, but that might shorten the life of it. It's a pressurized system so those that temp is average for a modern day car.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    9. #7
      Junior Member Okidiver's Avatar
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      So why have a needle gauge if dead center middle has a 50-degree range? Is that supposed to satisfy the I-need-a-gauge-crowd? Why not a have blue-green-yellow-red thing?
      Oh, well, don't mind me, just complaining to complain...
      Rapid Rick...I roll
      2008 C30 Matt Pearl Gold OSD-customized w/Elevate tune
      2015 V60 Seashell Metallic w/Platinum, BLIS, wood

    10. #8
      Nah, it's mostly because the materials used to make the coolant system can withstand that range of temperatures, whether it's 2*F outside of 102*F outside. Outside of that is not "normal" operation and throws a few red flags out, considering many rubbers melt around 250-275-300*F, it's a safe operating range.

      It doesn't have a blue-green-yellow-red thing because it's neither a tractor nor a lawn mower ha. Aesthetics are important to most car buyers.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    11. #9
      Junior Member
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      i agree, i would rather know 185 to 235 with a gauge movement....was pretty shocked to see it not move during that entire time. the fan is out and should be arriving in the morning....i am pretty sure we got it.

    12. #10
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      Yep, new cooling fan assy did the trick...

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