Driveshaft slinging grease
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    \r\n So I found that the driveshaft is slinging grease on the frontmost end. Am I going to need to buy a new/rebuilt driveshaft, or is there a component of the shaft that I can replace myself? It\'s not making any noise or causing any vibration so it\'s on my "soonish" todo list.
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    2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles
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    \r\n Just the front, correct?
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    \r\nIf yes-
    \r\nCV Joint, front 1.00 PN 31216175
    \r\nNote "Only for front CV joints. For rear CV joints the entire propeller shaft must be replaced".
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    \r\nThis document may or may not be of help http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/h...nt-service.pdf\r\n
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    2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 199k
    \r\n2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 128k
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    \r\n Nice, you made my day, thank you! That\'s a lot cheaper than a full shaft. I\'ve seen that joint before but saw "CV" and assumed it was for the half-shafts. That\'ll be an excellent weekend project.\r\n
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    2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles
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    \r\n It\'s not a matter of if but when on these. I rebuilt the front joint on mine using a kit from Colorado Driveshaft (no affil.). Not too hard. I recommend giving them a call (you can\'t order online-' + '-it\'s a small operation). They seem to be well regarded in the Volvo community.
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    \r\nhttp://coloradodriveshaft.com/volvo.htm\r\n
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    2007 XC90 V8
    \r\n2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon LJ 6-speed
    \r\n1993 Dodge Viper RT/10
    \r\nPast favorites: 1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16, 1967 Volvo 1800S, 2002 Subaru WRX, 2002 BMW 525iT manual, 1998 Volvo V70 T5M
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by caliwagon\r\n View Post\r\n
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    It\'s not a matter of if but when on these. I rebuilt the front joint on mine using a kit from Colorado Driveshaft (no affil.). Not too hard. I recommend giving them a call (you can\'t order online-' + '-it\'s a small operation). They seem to be well regarded in the Volvo community.
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    \nI highly recommend Colorado Drive Shaft! We had the carrier bearing fail on the V70XC, a whole new one for it was $200, and it had a one year warranty. We did end up having to use that warranty, it started making noise 7 months in. We called them expecting a bad response and that it wasn\'t their fault. Instead, they said ok no problem! Sent us another one, paid for the shipping, and paid for the return shipping on the bad one! And they expedited it all so it was super quick! Go with these guys, they\'re awesome.
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    2007 XC90 V8 Sport (R-Design), Passion Red, Large Iron Mark Grille, Satin Black Metallic Powder Coated Rims, 2013 Smoked Tail Lights, Lighted Upper Tail Lights, Chrome Executive Inlets, 32" Light Bar, Full Roof Rack w/ 36" Tri-Row Bar, 20" Light Bar, 4 7" Side Light Bars, 2 6" Back Up Light Bars, Full Sized Shovel, Full Sized Axe, Hi-Lift. S60R Brembo Brakes Front+Rear, 25mm Spacers, EBC Rotors+Pads.
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    \r\n Nice, good call. Do you remember how much it was for their kit? I keep seeing their names next to glowing reviews so I\'ll definitely go that route if the price is right.
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    \r\nAlso, when you removed yours, did you have to use a puller at all or did it just pop off? I watched a few videos of people doing it on Explorers and such and they just slid off, but the document ggleavitt linked to specified a puller to use. The puller\'s not an issue, but if I have to get it back on with a hammer and socket I\'ll need to pull the entire shaft out. If not, I can just leave it in and lower the one end a bit.\r\n
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    2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by atraudes\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Nice, good call. Do you remember how much it was for their kit? I keep seeing their names next to glowing reviews so I\'ll definitely go that route if the price is right.
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    \r\nAlso, when you removed yours, did you have to use a puller at all or did it just pop off? I watched a few videos of people doing it on Explorers and such and they just slid off, but the document ggleavitt linked to specified a puller to use. The puller\'s not an issue, but if I have to get it back on with a hammer and socket I\'ll need to pull the entire shaft out. If not, I can just leave it in and lower the one end a bit.
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    \nI think it was around $70-$80 for the kit, just to do the front joint.
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    \r\nI don\'t remember exactly how it went. My old joints was pretty much disintegrated. I had the whole prop shaft out of the car (not too hard once you have the vehicle in the air-' + '-six allen bolts at the flanges on each end, then a couple bolts holding the center bearing bracket. Once free, get it out from above the exhaust by working it toward the rear. No need to remove the exhaust, at least on mine, but I did drop some of the rear exhaust hangers for a bit more room).\r\n
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    2007 XC90 V8
    \r\n2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon LJ 6-speed
    \r\n1993 Dodge Viper RT/10
    \r\nPast favorites: 1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16, 1967 Volvo 1800S, 2002 Subaru WRX, 2002 BMW 525iT manual, 1998 Volvo V70 T5M
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    \r\n Its held on with c clips. You will probably need to pull the whole shaft to do it right.\r\n
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    2010 XC90 V8 - 113k miles
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    \r\n2009 C30 - Totaled. It ate a minivan at 35mph.
    \r\n2006 S40 - at 217k it was tired and needed too much.
    \r\n2008 XC90 3.2 - traded with 220,780 miles
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    \r\n Just called and ordered: $90 for the kit. That\'s a screaming deal considering the OEM kits were $300 and up, and even the Dorman kit was $120!
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    \r\nThanks for the input and recommendation everyone! I\'ll let you know how it goes.\r\n
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    2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles
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    \r\n Hey again, I wanted to follow up on this since I was able to get this sorted out last night. I went to install the replacement CV one afternoon and noticed that the middle CV was also starting to sling grease I called up the Colorado guys and bought a rebuilt driveshaft for ~$500 and they were nice enough to let me return the CV kit. I figured it was only a matter of time before one of the other CVs or the carrier went out and I\'d need to do it anyway. In the end I\'m glad I did; the other two joints were pretty sticky and resistant.
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    \r\nHere were some findings, for future generational reference:
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    \r\n - I did confirm you can\'t just unbolt and drop the front of the driveshaft to replace the CV; you don\'t have enough clearance. If you don\'t want to completely pull it out, unbolt the rear and center carrier and just slide it back as much as you need.
    \r\n - Unbolting the front, rear, and center and pulling it out is a lot easier than it sounds. It was a bit tight in one or two spots, but the exhaust didn\'t have to be dropped at all. The hardest part was getting those finicky bolts back in. All in all, you can swap driveshafts in an hour or two, but plan for three or four to be safe.
    \r\n - To hold the shaft in place while I bolted/removed the bolts, I put the shifter in park or neutral. You can remove two bolts at a time this way. I had the battery disconnected, so leaving the key in the On position wasn\'t a problem. I also had to remove the front passenger wheel since the shaft is directly linked to that CV half shaft.
    \r\n - I had to go buy a ball head allen socket set, and used the 6mm. The driveshaft interfered with the shorter allen set I had. Regular allen wrenches probably won\'t cut it unless it\'s very long. Also on that note, buy a quality brand; you\'ll be applying a lot of torque so they\'ll be flexing quite a bit. Cheaper sets likely won\'t survive.
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    \r\nHope that helps someone!\r\n
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    \r\n Good to know you got it sorted out! No issues for you with CDS? When I pulled mine, I was able to use a short Hex wrench with about 9 inches of extension on a 1/2" drive socket.
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    2007 XC90 V8 Sport (R-Design), Passion Red, Large Iron Mark Grille, Satin Black Metallic Powder Coated Rims, 2013 Smoked Tail Lights, Lighted Upper Tail Lights, Chrome Executive Inlets, 32" Light Bar, Full Roof Rack w/ 36" Tri-Row Bar, 20" Light Bar, 4 7" Side Light Bars, 2 6" Back Up Light Bars, Full Sized Shovel, Full Sized Axe, Hi-Lift. S60R Brembo Brakes Front+Rear, 25mm Spacers, EBC Rotors+Pads.
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    \r\n Nope, those guys were really easy to work with to get this sorted out. I\'m a little scared about how much shipping\'s going to cost to send back the core, but I\'ll burn that bridge when I get there. The new shaft looked fine, but it was obvious they had taken a wire wheel to it and then spray painted the whole thing black, including the center joint. I mean, it really doesn\'t matter since I\'ll probably never see the thing again, but still.
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    \r\nI wish I had thought of that now! Those ball head sockets always make me nervous since there\'s a smaller contact patch inside the head and they love to twist. It also would\'ve been nice to get some new bolts, but everything I found online would\'ve cost a fortune.\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by atraudes\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Nope, those guys were really easy to work with to get this sorted out. I\'m a little scared about how much shipping\'s going to cost to send back the core, but I\'ll burn that bridge when I get there. The new shaft looked fine, but it was obvious they had taken a wire wheel to it and then spray painted the whole thing black, including the center joint. I mean, it really doesn\'t matter since I\'ll probably never see the thing again, but still.
    \n
    \nI wish I had thought of that now! Those ball head sockets always make me nervous since there\'s a smaller contact patch inside the head and they love to twist. It also would\'ve been nice to get some new bolts, but everything I found online would\'ve cost a fortune.
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    \nI would contact them about a shipping label to get it there. They paid to ship ours to them, and we live in the middle of nowhere. As for the paint, I\'m guessing it\'s just a quick thing to make it look better instead of sending ones with chips all along it.
    \n
    \nAs for the stupid hex heads, I really wish they would use a better one like a deep set torx head, or hell, a normal bolt would work! Getting new ones, the hardware store sells new ones for fairly cheap. Different hex size, but the head is the same size, it\'s a class 10, same length and thread size. Give it a shot the next time you go under!
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    \r\n Well I\'m a goob. I found the envelope that was packed with the driveshaft and there was a packing label in there. Problem solved!\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by atraudes\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Well I\'m a goob. I found the envelope that was packed with the driveshaft and there was a packing label in there. Problem solved!
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    \nAwesome! I hope the new one remains trouble free!
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    2007 XC90 V8 Sport (R-Design), Passion Red, Large Iron Mark Grille, Satin Black Metallic Powder Coated Rims, 2013 Smoked Tail Lights, Lighted Upper Tail Lights, Chrome Executive Inlets, 32" Light Bar, Full Roof Rack w/ 36" Tri-Row Bar, 20" Light Bar, 4 7" Side Light Bars, 2 6" Back Up Light Bars, Full Sized Shovel, Full Sized Axe, Hi-Lift. S60R Brembo Brakes Front+Rear, 25mm Spacers, EBC Rotors+Pads.
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    1. #1
      Junior Member atraudes's Avatar
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      Driveshaft slinging grease

      So I found that the driveshaft is slinging grease on the frontmost end. Am I going to need to buy a new/rebuilt driveshaft, or is there a component of the shaft that I can replace myself? It's not making any noise or causing any vibration so it's on my "soonish" todo list.

      2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles

      Buy some Volvo parts from my eBay store