2015 Volvo S60 40K service did not do it at the dealer, did some myself
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    1. #1
      Junior Member cromeyellow's Avatar
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      2015.5 Volvo S60 40K service did not do it at the dealer, did some myself

      The free maintenance services on my 2015.5 Volvo S60 ended with the 30K one, so on the 40K one where they were quoting $600-$700. I did not have it done at the dealer.

      I bought a K&N 33-2388 lifetime engine air filter from Pep Boys, on sale for about $34., and an activated charcoal cabin air filter from carparts.com for about $25, which came to about $35. with tax and shipping.

      The engine air filter was easy to install, just unscrew the air hose and disconnect the electrical connection, open the screws around the filter (I could've used a torque screwdriver but a standard flat edged one that happened to be the right size opened them fine), vacuum out the housing and install the new filter. With the K&N filter I perceive smoother acceleration although it could be placebo effect.

      The cabin air filter was a real pain to get to, get out and most especially - to put back in. It's under the glove box, to the left, and everything about this process, the angle, the access and the lack of lighting was difficult. While sticking the new filter in I gave up at one point and unscrewed the entire glove box to try to gain better access, but could not pull it out, so I aborted that glove box removal effort and just went back to gradually shoving the new filter in, which it eventually did go all the way in properly. I had to be careful before putting it in that the air flow arrow was directed into the center of the cabin.

      I bought two new Bosch wiper blades, 20OE and 26OE, about $15. each, and installed myself. Easy, but make sure these have the right adapters with them. The 20CA and 26CA versions don't all contain the correct fittings.

      Then I took the car to Firestone Complete Auto Care where they owed me a free synthetic oil change, and paid them $109. for a brake fluid replacement, and ten dollars for a complete car inspection. It was within this process that I discovered that I needed two new front tires - uneven wear, to the steel belts at 40K miles on the inner edge. I paid for a lifetime alignment, $179. It a leased car that I will buy at the end of the lease. I'm committed now after spending all this, and I'm going to be way over the 36K miles by the end of the year anyway, so buying it makes the most sense.

      All said with tax this ended up costing me $899. at Firestone plus the parts I bought, and my labor. However, at that cost I did get two brand new tires and the lifetime alignment. Deducting for the alignment and tires, and new wiper blades, the cost (not including my labor, lol) was about $275. for everything (factoring in the price of the oil change, if I had had to pay for it).

      What I can do now, since the car is under warranty is take the car to the dealer for any electronic updates.

      By doing some of this yourself, you do save money, but not time.
      Last edited by cromeyellow; 05-30-2017 at 07:28 PM.

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    3. #2
      Member Magic Marker's Avatar
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      Sound great... I'm just about at the 60k service and afraid to hear what the dealer is going to quote.
      2019 XC40 RD P* & 2013 XC60 T6 P* / 2011 S60 T6 (Traded In)

    4. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by cromeyellow View Post
      The free maintenance services on my 2015.5 Volvo S60 ended with the 30K one, so on the 40K one where they were quoting $600-$700. I did not have it done at the dealer.

      I bought a K&N 33-2388 lifetime engine air filter from Pep Boys, on sale for about $34., and an activated charcoal cabin air filter from carparts.com for about $25, which came to about $35. with tax and shipping.

      The engine air filter was easy to install, just unscrew the air hose and disconnect the electrical connection, open the screws around the filter (I could've used a torque screwdriver but a standard flat edged one that happened to be the right size opened them fine), vacuum out the housing and install the new filter. With the K&N filter I perceive smoother acceleration although it could be placebo effect.

      The cabin air filter was a real pain to get to, get out and most especially - to put back in. It's under the glove box, to the left, and everything about this process, the angle, the access and the lack of lighting was difficult. While sticking the new filter in I gave up at one point and unscrewed the entire glove box to try to gain better access, but could not pull it out, so I aborted that glove box removal effort and just went back to gradually shoving the new filter in, which it eventually did go all the way in properly. I had to be careful before putting it in that the air flow arrow was directed into the center of the cabin.

      I bought two new Bosch wiper blades, 20OE and 26OE, about $15. each, and installed myself. Easy, but make sure these have the right adapters with them. The 20CA and 26CA versions don't all contain the correct fittings.

      Then I took the car to Firestone Complete Auto Care where they owed me a free synthetic oil change, and paid them $109. for a brake fluid replacement, and ten dollars for a complete car inspection. It was within this process that I discovered that I needed two new front tires - uneven wear, to the steel belts at 40K miles on the inner edge. I paid for a lifetime alignment, $179. It a leased car that I will buy at the end of the lease. I'm committed now after spending all this, and I'm going to be way over the 36K miles by the end of the year anyway, so buying it makes the most sense.

      All said with tax this ended up costing me $899. at Firestone plus the parts I bought, and my labor. However, at that cost I did get two brand new tires and the lifetime alignment. Deducting for the alignment and tires, and new wiper blades, the cost (not including my labor, lol) was about $275. for everything (factoring in the price of the oil change, if I had had to pay for it).

      What I can do now, since the car is under warranty is take the car to the dealer for any electronic updates.

      By doing some of this yourself, you do save money, but not time.
      A couple of questions for you:
      Can you share the source of the new wiper blades which contain the proper adapters?
      A few pointers on removing the glove box, and when you did so, do you recall seeing the recirculate mechanism behind the glove box?
      2015.5 S60 T5 FWD

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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dr_Entech View Post
      A few pointers on removing the glove box, and when you did so, do you recall seeing the recirculate mechanism behind the glove box?
      #1 - remove right side panel/cover of dash between dash and door...held in place with clips so be careful removing...can use a trim tool but I was able to pop with my fingers once I got an edge
      #2 - unclip electrical connection on right side which is now accessible and visible
      #3 - remove lower trim piece below glove box...IIRC there are two torx screws to remove
      #4 - remove two lower screws for box found under lower trim cover
      #5 - open glove box door and pop out light...unplug electrical...careful there is a metal heat shield/reflector that may pop free as well
      #6 - remove 4 torx screws in glove box at the top front and bottom back, plus 2 on either outside edge
      #7 - now the tricky part...there are 5 clip fasteners...I used a trim removal tool to pop those and pull the box straight out. 2 on the top and bottom left side and 1 on the top right. They are firm so it takes some courage to pop and pull free. The left side clips need the most persuading.
      #8 - back right side of box will have a wiring harness clipped to it. You can reach under the back and push/lift it up as the clip is sort of an inverted U and hangs he harness on the back of the box. This was something I only found with a flashlight and mirror. When reinstalling I did not attach as the wiring loom is like 1" in diameter and pretty firm so am not worried about it fatiguing anything or rattling around.
      #9 - I think there are a two or three other stray electrical connections you need to pop as well...one for the glove box light switch on the left for sure.

      Don't recall the recirculate mechanism.
      His - '15.5 Volvo V60 R-Design Platinum (Rebel Blue/Black), '06 Audi TT Quattro (Papaya/Grey)
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    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dr_Entech View Post
      A couple of questions for you:
      Can you share the source of the new wiper blades which contain the proper adapters?
      A few pointers on removing the glove box, and when you did so, do you recall seeing the recirculate mechanism behind the glove box?
      Here is a video I found useful. I've never had to remove the glove box, but having small hands does help this process, they could have made it easier (In my Saab 9-3, it's a 30 second job, literally).

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-RzyUS0oAY

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by Donuts View Post
      #1 - remove right side panel/cover of dash between dash and door...held in place with clips so be careful removing...can use a trim tool but I was able to pop with my fingers once I got an edge
      #2 - unclip electrical connection on right side which is now accessible and visible
      #3 - remove lower trim piece below glove box...IIRC there are two torx screws to remove
      #4 - remove two lower screws for box found under lower trim cover
      #5 - open glove box door and pop out light...unplug electrical...careful there is a metal heat shield/reflector that may pop free as well
      #6 - remove 4 torx screws in glove box at the top front and bottom back, plus 2 on either outside edge
      #7 - now the tricky part...there are 5 clip fasteners...I used a trim removal tool to pop those and pull the box straight out. 2 on the top and bottom left side and 1 on the top right. They are firm so it takes some courage to pop and pull free. The left side clips need the most persuading.
      #8 - back right side of box will have a wiring harness clipped to it. You can reach under the back and push/lift it up as the clip is sort of an inverted U and hangs he harness on the back of the box. This was something I only found with a flashlight and mirror. When reinstalling I did not attach as the wiring loom is like 1" in diameter and pretty firm so am not worried about it fatiguing anything or rattling around.
      #9 - I think there are a two or three other stray electrical connections you need to pop as well...one for the glove box light switch on the left for sure.

      Don't recall the recirculate mechanism.
      Thanks for the in-depth explanation. I was hoping it was close to or similar to the process of same with my 13' XC90. I may or may not have at it.
      2015.5 S60 T5 FWD

    9. #7
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      Thanks for all of the great info. Our 2015 XC60 is due for it's 40K service, for which the dealer wants $840. I usually do my own work and in fact wrote up an illustrated oil & filter change and real dip stick installation procedures for Swedespeed. In fact, I already bought the oil and filter. But, given the cold weather and my age (74), i think i will spring for the $90 they want for just the oil & filter change
      . It is about to go off warranty and there are a couple of small issues remaining. I will probably do the other work when the weather warms up.

      Has anyone found a Haines manual that covers the drive-E cars?
      Has anyone changed their brake fluid and had any issues like special tools or equipment needed? I think that is a big part of the $840. The 50K service is "only" $350.

      Thanks in advance.
      2015 XC60 DRIVE-E T6, Platinum, Heated F. Seats, Crystal White Met, Xenon, Tech, BLIS
      Custom: Valentine mount/City Safety IR filter, Dog Seat, Superchager ind., REAL dipstick
      2002 Acura RSX Type-S 6 speed
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    10. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by TonyJag View Post
      Thanks for all of the great info. Our 2015 XC60 is due for it's 40K service, for which the dealer wants $840. I usually do my own work and in fact wrote up an illustrated oil & filter change and real dip stick installation procedures for Swedespeed. In fact, I already bought the oil and filter. But, given the cold weather and my age (74), i think i will spring for the $90 they want for just the oil & filter change
      . It is about to go off warranty and there are a couple of small issues remaining. I will probably do the other work when the weather warms up.

      Has anyone found a Haines manual that covers the drive-E cars?
      Has anyone changed their brake fluid and had any issues like special tools or equipment needed? I think that is a big part of the $840. The 50K service is "only" $350.

      Thanks in advance.
      None required on the pre Drive E cars. iI don't imagine that the Drive E cars use a different system. I did mine using an individual bleed tool. Was completely dissatisfied. Asked the wife to pump the pedals the 2nd time while I worked at each wheel. Did this with the ignition off. Was dissatisfied and had to do it a 3rd time with the ignition on (car not running). The idea here is to open the actuators within the Brake module for fluid to flow through. 3rd time worked. Still a little dissatisfied because of the pedal feel (nothing can be done about that but replace the calipers with Brembo's), but one thing I do know is that I completely replaced the old fluid.

      You guys doing work yourself have to be careful with warranty issues. I'm not dissuading anyone from working because I've solely maintained 3 vehicles since they were brand new, as well as my other vehicles, extended family's vehicles. On my Lexus hybrid I went to the dealer last year because of a rattle on startup. Those fools said the injectors needed to be replaced (btw, which I could replace with 1 arm tied in the dark) at a cost of $2800, because there was a code stored in the system that pointed to a misfire. I pointed out that the code was stored, not current; meaning that it could have been from years ago when the car was brand new. Heck, it could have been when they delivered a brand new specially customized car to me with 106miles and claimed that it was technically brand new since it had never been registered. This is a vehicle they promised would be towed from the port. The idiots instead drove it. According to them, even at 1,000 miles a car is still considered brand new if it has not been registered. I told them that their diagnosis of the injectors was absolute rubbish especially as there was no current or pending misfire and they couldn't say how long the misfire had been stored. They then changed tactic and asked where I've been getting my maintenance done. Privy of the Magnuson Moss Act, I told them that it didn't concern them, but that the maintenance was done every 8k miles with full synthetic oil wherever I chose as is my right. The vehicle only had 40k, and the first 2 oil changes were with them until I discovered that their 'free' oil changes (because of the 100mies when new) were with conventional oil. There were trying to disqualify any potential warranty claim because I mentioned that this rattle was the result of a coupling between the engine and hybrid unit malfunctioning only during the startup. The morons maintained that the fuel injectors were the issue. I called Lexus of NA and filed a claim. They called me back to say that the dealer could not locate the source of the issue. I was furious. Had I been less knowledgeable, $2800 would have been wasted. Lexus of NA said that I may well be right but that only a dealer can diagnose an issue for them to act on.

      The point I'm trying to make is that you really need to know your stuff. Read up on the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act. Understand warranty laws and where your limitations may lie as far as items being covered after you work on the car. I'm at the point now that even if a dealer offers me free maintenance, I won't take advantage of it. You should see the cabin filter that they installed upside down/reversed. They only pointed out that my rear shocks were blown at 40k because I told them there was oil leaking from them. These things are easy for me to do, and so its not worth subjecting my cars to potential idiots.
      I dislike wagons, and don't particularly care for Volvo's in general. I'm not a fan of any one brand.

      Currently trying to pilot the fastest P3 S60.

    11. #9
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      Smile Thanks...

      Quote Originally Posted by Sir Harmony View Post
      None required on the pre Drive E cars. iI don't imagine that the Drive E cars use a different system. I did mine using an individual bleed tool. Was completely dissatisfied. Asked the wife to pump the pedals the 2nd time while I worked at each wheel. Did this with the ignition off. Was dissatisfied and had to do it a 3rd time with the ignition on (car not running). The idea here is to open the actuators within the Brake module for fluid to flow through. 3rd time worked. Still a little dissatisfied because of the pedal feel (nothing can be done about that but replace the calipers with Brembo's), but one thing I do know is that I completely replaced the old fluid.

      You guys doing work yourself have to be careful with warranty issues. I'm not dissuading anyone from working because I've solely maintained 3 vehicles since they were brand new, as well as my other vehicles, extended family's vehicles. On my Lexus hybrid I went to the dealer last year because of a rattle on startup. Those fools said the injectors needed to be replaced (btw, which I could replace with 1 arm tied in the dark) at a cost of $2800, because there was a code stored in the system that pointed to a misfire. I pointed out that the code was stored, not current; meaning that it could have been from years ago when the car was brand new. Heck, it could have been when they delivered a brand new specially customized car to me with 106miles and claimed that it was technically brand new since it had never been registered. This is a vehicle they promised would be towed from the port. The idiots instead drove it. According to them, even at 1,000 miles a car is still considered brand new if it has not been registered. I told them that their diagnosis of the injectors was absolute rubbish especially as there was no current or pending misfire and they couldn't say how long the misfire had been stored. They then changed tactic and asked where I've been getting my maintenance done. Privy of the Magnuson Moss Act, I told them that it didn't concern them, but that the maintenance was done every 8k miles with full synthetic oil wherever I chose as is my right. The vehicle only had 40k, and the first 2 oil changes were with them until I discovered that their 'free' oil changes (because of the 100mies when new) were with conventional oil. There were trying to disqualify any potential warranty claim because I mentioned that this rattle was the result of a coupling between the engine and hybrid unit malfunctioning only during the startup. The morons maintained that the fuel injectors were the issue. I called Lexus of NA and filed a claim. They called me back to say that the dealer could not locate the source of the issue. I was furious. Had I been less knowledgeable, $2800 would have been wasted. Lexus of NA said that I may well be right but that only a dealer can diagnose an issue for them to act on.

      The point I'm trying to make is that you really need to know your stuff. Read up on the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act. Understand warranty laws and where your limitations may lie as far as items being covered after you work on the car. I'm at the point now that even if a dealer offers me free maintenance, I won't take advantage of it. You should see the cabin filter that they installed upside down/reversed. They only pointed out that my rear shocks were blown at 40k because I told them there was oil leaking from them. These things are easy for me to do, and so its not worth subjecting my cars to potential idiots.
      My wife absolutely hates to participate in brake bleeding, which i usually do with a mity-vac brake bleeding kit plus pumping the pedal, so based on your experience, i will have that done by the dealer tomorrow along with the oil change. The intake and cabin filter replacements are easy and i usually wait until after the pollen has subsided in late spring to change them. I just got a set of Nokian WRG3 with nitrogen, so don't want them messing with tire pressures or rotation usually included in the 40K service..

      Thanks for your advice about who should do maintenance. Our dealer here in MA has been reasonable during the 3 free maintenance visits. I have done several extra oil changes with no issues during warranty, which is now about to expire. I had the oil tested by Blackstone Labs and the conclusion was that the Volvo recommended oil change intervals are fine.
      2015 XC60 DRIVE-E T6, Platinum, Heated F. Seats, Crystal White Met, Xenon, Tech, BLIS
      Custom: Valentine mount/City Safety IR filter, Dog Seat, Superchager ind., REAL dipstick
      2002 Acura RSX Type-S 6 speed
      2020 Tesla Model 3 Performance

    12. #10
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      I normally perform my own maintenance, but I figured I would take advantage if the included maintenance with the purchase of my new Volvo. At the 10k service, the dealer did not install the engine oil drain plug washer. And at the 20k service, the dealer did not install the washer and also overfilled the engine by 1 quart!

      But hey... They are certified!

      This is why I do my own maintenance. And I feel bad for those who do not know that the dealer does not know everything about their own brand of vehicles.


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      2016 S60 Cross Country (SOLD)

    13. #11
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      Painting with a broad brush, I'd say.

    14. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Painting with a broad brush, I'd say.
      It takes only a few bad experiences to spoil the well... but saying that, I had nothing but good experiences with my Volvo dealer. I have had to remind them of certain things though, like the fact that they were supposed to give me the Polestar box when I had the optimization done (they assumed that Polestar sent it to you), and I also had to show them that I didn't have the latest Sensus through some of the posts on the forum here. However, given the various levels of software changes between models, I can imagine it's hard to keep up, especially when a customer (me) brings a six year old car in that doesn't have all of the latest installs. As far as the actual work was concerned, it has been great.
      Last edited by p.rico; 02-09-2018 at 01:27 PM.
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      You could call and talk to a service advisor with 20 years Volvo experience or one who was hired two weeks ago. Your advisor may have good technical knowledge or may just be a good sales person. The tech working on the car could be an apprentice or an Expert (Volvo's highest certification level). Just like there are bad plumbers or electricians or contractors, there are bad techs or advisors. We aren't all a bunch of brainless goons though.

    16. #14
      Quote Originally Posted by TonyJag View Post
      Thanks for all of the great info. Our 2015 XC60 is due for it's 40K service, for which the dealer wants $840. I usually do my own work and in fact wrote up an illustrated oil & filter change and real dip stick installation procedures for Swedespeed. In fact, I already bought the oil and filter. But, given the cold weather and my age (74), i think i will spring for the $90 they want for just the oil & filter change
      . It is about to go off warranty and there are a couple of small issues remaining. I will probably do the other work when the weather warms up.

      Has anyone found a Haines manual that covers the drive-E cars?
      Has anyone changed their brake fluid and had any issues like special tools or equipment needed? I think that is a big part of the $840. The 50K service is "only" $350.

      Thanks in advance.
      Guess this might be subjective, but I'd do or pay a mechanic to do a "once over" on the car before the warranty ends. Just to make sure nothing goes unnoticed while Volvo is on the hook for repairs and not you. Because once the warranty ends, things get expensive to fix!

    17. #15
      Quote Originally Posted by Sir Harmony View Post
      None required on the pre Drive E cars. iI don't imagine that the Drive E cars use a different system. I did mine using an individual bleed tool. Was completely dissatisfied. Asked the wife to pump the pedals the 2nd time while I worked at each wheel. Did this with the ignition off. Was dissatisfied and had to do it a 3rd time with the ignition on (car not running). The idea here is to open the actuators within the Brake module for fluid to flow through. 3rd time worked. Still a little dissatisfied because of the pedal feel (nothing can be done about that but replace the calipers with Brembo's), but one thing I do know is that I completely replaced the old fluid.

      You guys doing work yourself have to be careful with warranty issues. I'm not dissuading anyone from working because I've solely maintained 3 vehicles since they were brand new, as well as my other vehicles, extended family's vehicles. On my Lexus hybrid I went to the dealer last year because of a rattle on startup. Those fools said the injectors needed to be replaced (btw, which I could replace with 1 arm tied in the dark) at a cost of $2800, because there was a code stored in the system that pointed to a misfire. I pointed out that the code was stored, not current; meaning that it could have been from years ago when the car was brand new. Heck, it could have been when they delivered a brand new specially customized car to me with 106miles and claimed that it was technically brand new since it had never been registered. This is a vehicle they promised would be towed from the port. The idiots instead drove it. According to them, even at 1,000 miles a car is still considered brand new if it has not been registered. I told them that their diagnosis of the injectors was absolute rubbish especially as there was no current or pending misfire and they couldn't say how long the misfire had been stored. They then changed tactic and asked where I've been getting my maintenance done. Privy of the Magnuson Moss Act, I told them that it didn't concern them, but that the maintenance was done every 8k miles with full synthetic oil wherever I chose as is my right. The vehicle only had 40k, and the first 2 oil changes were with them until I discovered that their 'free' oil changes (because of the 100mies when new) were with conventional oil. There were trying to disqualify any potential warranty claim because I mentioned that this rattle was the result of a coupling between the engine and hybrid unit malfunctioning only during the startup. The morons maintained that the fuel injectors were the issue. I called Lexus of NA and filed a claim. They called me back to say that the dealer could not locate the source of the issue. I was furious. Had I been less knowledgeable, $2800 would have been wasted. Lexus of NA said that I may well be right but that only a dealer can diagnose an issue for them to act on.

      The point I'm trying to make is that you really need to know your stuff. Read up on the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act. Understand warranty laws and where your limitations may lie as far as items being covered after you work on the car. I'm at the point now that even if a dealer offers me free maintenance, I won't take advantage of it. You should see the cabin filter that they installed upside down/reversed. They only pointed out that my rear shocks were blown at 40k because I told them there was oil leaking from them. These things are easy for me to do, and so its not worth subjecting my cars to potential idiots.
      I hope you didn't let the issue slide so easily with Lexus? When unhappy with one dealer's explanation, take the car to another for a 2nd opinion. Being dealerships are franchised, the "troubleshooting" and "Quality" of service techs vary from Location A to Location B.

    18. #16
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      Thumbs down Surprise Rear Brake Replacement...

      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Guess this might be subjective, but I'd do or pay a mechanic to do a "once over" on the car before the warranty ends. Just to make sure nothing goes unnoticed while Volvo is on the hook for repairs and not you. Because once the warranty ends, things get expensive to fix!
      I agree on getting a once-over before it goes off warranty. Well, i took the car to the dealer yesterday, requesting only the $90 oil change and $163 brake fluid flush, plus a couple of minor warranty items to complete the 40K service. I will change the filters myself after the pollen subsides. Then came the dreaded entrance of the service advisor to the waiting room.. he asked me to come out into the garage and showed me that the rear brake pads were almost gone ( 1. It is because systems like stability control use the rear brakes a lot.
      2. Most XC60s only get to ~35K miles before needing rear brakes.
      3. DIY or indy shop attempts to replace pads often end in damaging the caliper ($1000 each) because it includes an electric motor (part of the emergency brake system) that can only be backed off using the equipment that only Volvo dealers have.
      4. There are no "squealers" to warn that pads are low..they want you to depend on the dealer to discover that.
      5. They are not allowed to turn rotors, so they need to be replaced as well (@$147.50)
      6. "Everyday low price" for rear brake replacement is $725!
      7. They are wear items, so not covered by the warranty, still good until 50K miles.

      To me, this looks like poor design for maintainability and a blatant way to ensure their service business. Fortunately I had some coupons they sent me in the mail, which kept the bill under $1K. On the positive side, they also did a complete multi-point inspection, replaced the sparkplugs under a recall to avoid their insulators breaking and causing serious engine damage, some software updates, and a free loaner (2017 XC60 T6 AWD.)
      2015 XC60 DRIVE-E T6, Platinum, Heated F. Seats, Crystal White Met, Xenon, Tech, BLIS
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    19. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by TonyJag View Post
      3. DIY or indy shop attempts to replace pads often end in damaging the caliper ($1000 each) because it includes an electric motor (part of the emergency brake system) that can only be backed off using the equipment that only Volvo dealers have.
      This is bull****. Nothing special is required to replace rear pads. I did it myself and not hard at all. Instructions are even included in the box if you purchase Volvo Genuine pads... A few threads here explain the procedure.
      Bright Silver 2015.5 V60, T6 3.0 AWD, P* tune, Simons Touring Catback, Eibach ProKit, various retrofits including adaptive OE xenon

    20. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by Stef1 View Post
      This is bull****. Nothing special is required to replace rear pads. I did it myself and not hard at all. Instructions are even included in the box if you purchase Volvo Genuine pads... A few threads here explain the procedure.
      That's what i thought. How do you back the piston into the caliper? Thanks.
      2015 XC60 DRIVE-E T6, Platinum, Heated F. Seats, Crystal White Met, Xenon, Tech, BLIS
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    21. #19
      Quote Originally Posted by TonyJag View Post
      I agree on getting a once-over before it goes off warranty. Well, i took the car to the dealer yesterday, requesting only the $90 oil change and $163 brake fluid flush, plus a couple of minor warranty items to complete the 40K service. I will change the filters myself after the pollen subsides. Then came the dreaded entrance of the service advisor to the waiting room.. he asked me to come out into the garage and showed me that the rear brake pads were almost gone ( 1. It is because systems like stability control use the rear brakes a lot.
      2. Most XC60s only get to ~35K miles before needing rear brakes.
      3. DIY or indy shop attempts to replace pads often end in damaging the caliper ($1000 each) because it includes an electric motor (part of the emergency brake system) that can only be backed off using the equipment that only Volvo dealers have.
      4. There are no "squealers" to warn that pads are low..they want you to depend on the dealer to discover that.
      5. They are not allowed to turn rotors, so they need to be replaced as well (@$147.50)
      6. "Everyday low price" for rear brake replacement is $725!
      7. They are wear items, so not covered by the warranty, still good until 50K miles.

      To me, this looks like poor design for maintainability and a blatant way to ensure their service business. Fortunately I had some coupons they sent me in the mail, which kept the bill under $1K. On the positive side, they also did a complete multi-point inspection, replaced the sparkplugs under a recall to avoid their insulators breaking and causing serious engine damage, some software updates, and a free loaner (2017 XC60 T6 AWD.)
      Other than gauging you on maintenance, was the car mechanically sound? Do you trust this dealerships "expertise" to have done a thorough once over? Seeing how the bill gets quickly padded, don't want surprises post 50K.

      Are you the one who has done most of the maintenance or has the dealer done the 10-40K except some odds and ends? .

      Do you drive a FWD or AWD? Sounds like quite a major rear brake bias going on and fishy on the calipers....But I'm no expert and take my car to the dealer as well.

    22. #20
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      Rear brakes wear out much faster than fronts on those cars with the EPB. And yes, we use VIDA to put the motors in service position and then reset them when the new pads are installed. The motor can be removed and retracted, but I have seen a few come from shops that messed them up. So it isn't total BS.

    23. #21
      Junior Member Thomas.brian23's Avatar
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      I had my XC60 in for state inspection this past January. My vehicle had 75K at the time and was on its original brakes. I was fully expecting to need at minimum new rear brakes because all of the anecdotal information I’ve read on Swedespeed saying that P3s go through their rear brakes very rapidly.

      My XC60 did end up needing brakes to pass state inspection, but only front brakes. Very surprising to me. I did inquire about the health of the rear brakes when the service advisor told me that the front brakes needed replacement, and he stated that the rear brakes were fine. I paid $681 for front brakes plus state safety and emissions testing (I think I had a 10% off coupon).

      As another data point, my friend’s XC60 which is driven on the same roads as mine, needed new brakes at all 4 wheels @ about the same mileage.
      2013 XC60 T6 AWD
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    24. #22
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Rear brakes wear out much faster than fronts on those cars with the EPB. And yes, we use VIDA to put the motors in service position and then reset them when the new pads are installed. The motor can be removed and retracted, but I have seen a few come from shops that messed them up. So it isn't total BS.
      Is the rear bias on AWD only? Or does FWD suffer same issue?

    25. #23
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      I've noticed no difference between FWD and AWD with regard to how long rear brakes last vs. front. Most P3 cars I've seen with long service history have need 2 sets of rears per 1 front, if not 3:1. It's usually 2:1 front vs. rear for the P2 cars.
      Driving habits are also a factor, of course.

    26. #24
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Other than gauging you on maintenance, was the car mechanically sound? Do you trust this dealerships "expertise" to have done a thorough once over? Seeing how the bill gets quickly padded, don't want surprises post 50K.

      Are you the one who has done most of the maintenance or has the dealer done the 10-40K except some odds and ends? .

      Do you drive a FWD or AWD? Sounds like quite a major rear brake bias going on and fishy on the calipers....But I'm no expert and take my car to the dealer as well.
      I did trust them. IWe bought it there and they did all 3 free maintenances (10, 20, 30K Mies), plus warranty work including a major canbus failure.. a short due to moisture getting into the power steering pump. that took out almost everything electronic. I did things like: real dipstick, extra oil changes, radar detector installation, and trailer hitch installation and BTW wrote them up for Swedespeed (see Lightbulb XC60 Technical Info, Repair and How-To Thread)

      It is FWD.
      2015 XC60 DRIVE-E T6, Platinum, Heated F. Seats, Crystal White Met, Xenon, Tech, BLIS
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    27. #25
      Junior Member Stef1's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by TonyJag View Post
      That's what i thought. How do you back the piston into the caliper? Thanks.
      Watch this nice video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCp9LZ_sOeo at 10:00 he shows the instructions included with the pads.

      Also, a lots of threads here discuss this. Do a search. Here's one : https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...eded-to-unlock

      Easy enough job. Worst part was removing the caliper bolts, they where a pita to get out....
      Bright Silver 2015.5 V60, T6 3.0 AWD, P* tune, Simons Touring Catback, Eibach ProKit, various retrofits including adaptive OE xenon

    28. #26
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      I've noticed no difference between FWD and AWD with regard to how long rear brakes last vs. front. Most P3 cars I've seen with long service history have need 2 sets of rears per 1 front, if not 3:1. It's usually 2:1 front vs. rear for the P2 cars.
      Driving habits are also a factor, of course.
      I guess wear depends upon driving habits a lot. Highway driving requires less stop and go. Better gas mileage, less braking. City drivings hitting lights, traffic, etc are riding brakes and stopping often. Why you get crap gas mileage on city streets, too.

      Driving habits aside, on your 2:1 or 3:1 ratio, how often does the average p3 Volvo Driver breeze through a set of brakes and pads? What about Rotors? How long do they typically last?

      If this ratio stands true, good thing I got the Prepaid Maintenance + Wear on my S60 til 100K....for free.....Though I'm a 80/20 Highway to City Driver....I always take highway unless there's no alternate route.
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 02-11-2018 at 10:38 AM.

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