CV Axle Rebuild Advice Wanted
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    1. #1

      CV Axle Rebuild Advice Wanted

      I've got a 2005 XC90 2.5T, the AWD variety.

      I've got a torn boot on the passenger side - and when I go shopping, it looks like this is a $600 new. Can someone advise me on whether its possible to get someone to rebuild the one I've got?

      Are there downsides to going with a junkyard score as a place to start? (And are parts similar for various transmission configs, like the 3.2 or v8?)

      What about just going with an IPD aftermarket version?

      Thanks for helping the newb.

      (Just did all the brakes and pads today. Still working my way through with the trailer module!)
      2005 XC90 2.5T AWD - SKULLCRUSHER - named after a dragon in HTTYD
      Prior:
      2005 s40 T5 (rear ended by a texting driver)
      1998 s70 (roll over, walked away without a scratch on Thanksgiving Day!)
      2001 s60 2.4T (transmission flares killed it)

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    3. #2
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      Assuming you're in the us, you won't find that axle in the junkyard on anything newer than a 2006.

      Do you know how long the boot has been torn?
      If you do and it hasn't been too long, or if you can tell it still has a fair amount of grease in it, I would for sure replace the boots.

      If it is already worn, been run dry, or you feel a vibration in it, replacing the boot will not really fix that.

      Side note, the majority of aftermarket axles have a vibration problem out of the box. Sometimes you get lucky, but the odds aren't great.

    4. #3
      Member T501's Avatar
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      The problem with most aftermarket axles is that they are re-manufactured axles. The same is true for genuine Volvo replacement axles. So far I've gone through 2 genuine Volvo axles in my S60 that lasted about 30k miles each before causing major vibrations again. So no need to spend $600 on that junk.

      Try to source a "Cardone Select" axle which a brand new, not re-manufactured. You might also try eeuroparts.com, they sell NEW GKN axles which are the company that makes Volvo axles, but they cost about $225 for a new axle vs. $600 for re-manufacured junk.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 203K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 200k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

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    6. #4
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      Torn CV Boot does not mean the CV Joint is bad. If the tear is new and no debris inside the CV Joint, then chances are the CV joint is still good.
      If you hear no click-click-click during a turn, your joint may be OK.

      I do not have a DIY for XC90, but I wrote a DIY for 1998 S70 GLT using GKN Boot.
      Got to rmeuropean dot com and buy the GKN boot.
      The only difference is the axle nut (the 1998 S70 uses the 36-mm nut, the XC90 uses a bolt).

      https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=29716
      Last edited by cn90; 05-29-2017 at 06:56 PM.

    7. #5
      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      The problem with most aftermarket axles is that they are re-manufactured axles. The same is true for genuine Volvo replacement axles. So far I've gone through 2 genuine Volvo axles in my S60 that lasted about 30k miles each before causing major vibrations again. So no need to spend $600 on that junk.

      Try to source a "Cardone Select" axle which a brand new, not re-manufactured. You might also try eeuroparts.com, they sell NEW GKN axles which are the company that makes Volvo axles, but they cost about $225 for a new axle vs. $600 for re-manufacured junk.
      Oh yeah - my axle is likely shredded, the inside of the wheel well looks like a tar pit. I found this out when replacing the alarm siren module (junkyard score). $6.00 for the part, and it works now!

      Good call on the Cardone Select. Found it from partsgeek for $160. IPD had one that was aftermarket/rebuilt for 130, so that's a no brainer.

      I think I'll do this while I fix my splined collar for my bevel gear. Might as well not do the work twice!
      2005 XC90 2.5T AWD - SKULLCRUSHER - named after a dragon in HTTYD
      Prior:
      2005 s40 T5 (rear ended by a texting driver)
      1998 s70 (roll over, walked away without a scratch on Thanksgiving Day!)
      2001 s60 2.4T (transmission flares killed it)

    8. #6
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Good choice!
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 203K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 200k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by SwedishDragon View Post
      Oh yeah - my axle is likely shredded, the inside of the wheel well looks like a tar pit. I found this out when replacing the alarm siren module (junkyard score). $6.00 for the part, and it works now!

      Good call on the Cardone Select. Found it from partsgeek for $160. IPD had one that was aftermarket/rebuilt for 130, so that's a no brainer.

      I think I'll do this while I fix my splined collar for my bevel gear. Might as well not do the work twice!
      if the axle is not making noise (click click sound) when turning, I would just clean the joint, regrease and put a new boot on it. I dont see the need for replacing it just because it spit out grease if its not making noise.

    10. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by huzzsaba View Post
      if the axle is not making noise (click click sound) when turning, I would just clean the joint, regrease and put a new boot on it. I dont see the need for replacing it just because it spit out grease if its not making noise.
      1000+,

      The fact that it spits out grease (they all do when the boot is torn), does NOT mean the CV joint is bad.
      Put new boot on and done with.

    11. #9
      Member T501's Avatar
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      I would only reboot if it was a relatively new axle and the boot tear is very recent.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 203K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 200k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

    12. #10
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      - If the CV Joint makes no noise during turns, nothing to worry about.
      - Undo the CV Joint, remove old grease, remove all the balls and clean them, then repack with new grease + boot. People do this all the time.

      The aftermarket axles are a hit-and-miss, this is why people should stick to the factory axle as much as possible.

      There is a guy in VW forum, every 80K-90K miles, he replace the boot (GKN boot) + new grease, the VW lasted 350K miles on the original axles. This proves that a factory axle should last the life of the car "if" the boot is never allowed to be torn. This takes diligence and careful check every 70K-80K etc. The problem with CV axle is: it is out of sight and it is out of mind. Many years ago, the aftermarket axles were very good, now virtually all of them are made in China, not necessarily a bad thing, but the QC is very poor.

    13. #11
      Member T501's Avatar
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      The inner joints wear out too, regardless of the boot tearing or not. Especially on our passenger side axles. That's why I wouldn't recommend re-booting unless it's a close to new axle. I've been down this road many times before and I've tried all the options.

      Volvo cv axle inner joint life span in my experience is about 90k miles when the car comes new from the factory, and 30k miles if they are replaced by Volvo with a Volvo axle. That's the passenger side axle only, the driver's side lasts much longer.

      Any Volvo axle that you can buy from any dealer will be re-manufactured, that's why they don't last nearly as long as when the car is new.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 203K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 200k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

    14. #12
      ^^ this. I went through two sets of axles on my last XC. The first set were replaced at 65k (it was a TSB) but the OEM replacements were definitely worn when I traded it in. No clicks or audible sounds but I did have vibrations and when the front was unloaded (off the ground and tires free) I was able to shake the shafts by hand to hear them rattle. That puts the life on mine at about 155k.
      2010 XC90 V8 - 113k miles
      2012 S60 T5 - 160k miles
      2009 C30 - Totaled. It ate a minivan at 35mph.
      2006 S40 - at 217k it was tired and needed too much.
      2008 XC90 3.2 - traded with 220,780 miles

    15. #13
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      Yikes, just discovered a torn inner boot on my front passenger axle yesterday while doing the serpentine belt job. Still a LOT of grease in the boot, but it's pretty black.

      Car has 108k on it. Any idea what the labor charge is for CV Boot replacement vs axle replacement is? Seems like this would be a labor intensive job, so am inclined to go with the new iPD axle and get 30k+ out of it, than take a chance on repacking the existing one and maybe only getting 1k miles if it's already gone (or if I don't repack it right).

      Thoughts?
      FOR SALE - 2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, Snabb Intake & Turbo Pipe, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
      SOLD - 2007 XC90 V8 Sport - IPD Sways/Subframe Inserts/Strut Bar Conversion, Stoptech Rotors

    16. #14
      Member T501's Avatar
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      I wouldn't re-boot it. Been there done that. Cost to re-boot at the dealer is about $450. Probably $300 at an Indy. They'll charge aprox. 2 hr. labor.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 203K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 200k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

    17. #15
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      Can anyone provide a rough procedure for swapping out the entire axle? Am guessing the entire right front suspension has to come off, but then what?
      FOR SALE - 2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, Snabb Intake & Turbo Pipe, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
      SOLD - 2007 XC90 V8 Sport - IPD Sways/Subframe Inserts/Strut Bar Conversion, Stoptech Rotors

    18. #16
      Junior Member atraudes's Avatar
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      Re-booting is a great option if you'll be doing it yourself, but the cost of having someone else do it is usually about the cost of a new axle. On the other hand, even supposedly new axles can be a crap shoot, so there's something to be said for working with a known good item. If it's not making a lot of noise consider holding onto your old axle. If the new one goes south you can have the old one rebuilt and reinstalled. If kept properly lubed they should outlast the car.
      2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles

      Buy some Volvo parts from my eBay store

    19. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorthwestMoose View Post
      Can anyone provide a rough procedure for swapping out the entire axle? Am guessing the entire right front suspension has to come off, but then what?

      When i did mine on the s80, pretty much same process, I undid the outer tie rod as well as the control arm from the subframe. this way you dont have to do the alignment again.Most will tell you to undo the bottom 2 bolts from the strut to hub, but that will affect your alignment.

    20. #18
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorthwestMoose View Post
      Can anyone provide a rough procedure for swapping out the entire axle? Am guessing the entire right front suspension has to come off, but then what?
      Never done it on an AWD but basically after the car is safely off the ground and the wheel is off...

      1. Undo the axle bolt, top sway bar end-link nut, abs wheel speed sensor (undo the outer tie rod nut as an option for easier turning of the hub assembly)

      2. Undo the big nut that attaches the LCA to the ball joint

      At this point I tend to remove the caliper and rotor, it only takes 5 min or so and makes everything easier but I think you can do the job without doing that

      3. Pry the LCA down to get the hub assembly out of the LCA, this can be tricky and there are a few ways to do it. My favorite is using a BIG pry bar and this tool: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6007-Lowe...ntrol+arm+tool

      Some use come along straps

      4. If it hasn't already come out, the axle splines can come out of the hub now

      5. Undo the carrier bearing and then the axle slides right out

      reverse order and you're done

      It's a pretty intimidating job the first time you do it. If you do it once, then it's easy. Air tools are a huge help! You'll be struggling at many points with only hand tools.

      Attempt at your own risk! Serious injury or death is always possible with this kind of work. I take NO responsibility if anything bad happens.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 203K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 200k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

    21. #19
      Junior Member atraudes's Avatar
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      To get the lower control arm separated from the ball joint, I put a trolley jack under the ball joint bolt (with a heavy towel in between), jack it up until it's just supporting the weight of the car, and slip some spring compressors over the coils. Once you're satisfied they're secure enough, lower the jack and roll it out. Then you can unbolt the ball joint and use a joint puller to pop it out. I've tried not using the spring compressors and just about gave myself a hernia trying to get them separated and then together. That pry bar tool is pretty swanky though! I may have to pick one up. I'm just not sure if I have enough clearance below the arm to use it. I'll have to look the next time I've got this stuff apart again.
      2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles

      Buy some Volvo parts from my eBay store

    22. #20
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      If it's not too much money and you own more than one P2, this tool is almost invaluable- https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...c90-baum-v7062 (can find other sellers on the open market as well, this is what easily came up).

      I've done a couple where the whole control arm had to come off and the ball joint stub beaten out across a block of wood. Pulled my head out and bought one of these a few years back (Volvo mechanic friend told me about it), have had nothing but a good experience ever since. Even with this tool, it'll crank down to a point where you'll wonder if it's doing anything but getting close to breaking, but then it'll pop and you'll be loose.

      For what it's worth...
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 198k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 127k

    23. #21
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      Thanks for the insights, gents. I've got brand new LCAs tie rods, ball joints (I think?) all sitting in boxes in the garage, so sounds like the time is ripe here. Guess that means I should do the drivers side too while I have the rest apart. Assuming the boots are intact, should I reboot the drivers side as a precaution ?
      FOR SALE - 2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, Snabb Intake & Turbo Pipe, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
      SOLD - 2007 XC90 V8 Sport - IPD Sways/Subframe Inserts/Strut Bar Conversion, Stoptech Rotors

    24. #22
      Junior Member atraudes's Avatar
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      If you have the necessary tools to do it, I'd say absolutely. I don't know exactly what tools are needed, I just know I don't have them. I'm pretty sure you'll need a propshaft separator as I believe the knuckles are pressed onto the shaft, not held on with circlips like other Volvos.

      I have two pitman arm pullers, EverTough 67025 and 67028. I can't remember which is which, but I use the big one to pop the ball joint out. I only mention it because they were less than $20 each and have easily paid for themselves on other projects as well.
      2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles

      Buy some Volvo parts from my eBay store

    25. #23
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorthwestMoose View Post
      Thanks for the insights, gents. I've got brand new LCAs tie rods, ball joints (I think?) all sitting in boxes in the garage, so sounds like the time is ripe here. Guess that means I should do the drivers side too while I have the rest apart. Assuming the boots are intact, should I reboot the drivers side as a precaution ?
      make sure when rebooting that you get the clamp to sit right in the groove all the way around and use the proper tool to crimp it. Make sure to get the good boot (GKN Loebro).

      Not sure if you work quick or slow, but for that much work, I end up taking a few days and just rent a cheap car in case I need to go somewhere or run to get parts or tools.

    26. #24
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      looks like the IPD axle only fits V8's up to chassis number 367133, and my chassis number is 403XXX. Any idea what the change is, or best source for the correct part?
      FOR SALE - 2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, Snabb Intake & Turbo Pipe, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
      SOLD - 2007 XC90 V8 Sport - IPD Sways/Subframe Inserts/Strut Bar Conversion, Stoptech Rotors

    27. #25
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorthwestMoose View Post
      looks like the IPD axle only fits V8's up to chassis number 367133, and my chassis number is 403XXX. Any idea what the change is, or best source for the correct part?
      I probably wouldn't replace the driver's side axle unless you suspect it's bad. They came be a major PITA to get out. Some come out easy, others turn into nightmares.



      Try eEuroparts.com for sourcing axles. They even sell NEW (not re-built) GKN axles for some models.
      Last edited by T501; 06-06-2017 at 10:43 PM.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 203K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 200k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
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    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      I probably wouldn't replace the driver's side axle unless you suspect it's bad. They came be a major PITA to get out. Some come out easy, others turn into nightmares.

      Try eEuroparts.com for sourcing axles. They even sell NEW (not re-built) GKN axles for some models.
      Great - my driver's side is the one that's clicking...

    29. #27
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      I used the technique described here and it ended up being laughably easy. Granted mine wasn't rusted in; the circlip just wouldn't give it up. I bought some bulk steel cable from Home Depot and made a full loop so the hammer/axe was pulling both sides of the axle evenly instead of just one side.

      2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles

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    30. #28
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      Alright, so just got off the phone with local service adviser. Apparently the inner CV boot on the XC90 V8 Axles above chassis number 367133 are not serviceable and the whole unit has to be replaced.

      Best price I was able to find online was a remanufactured unit for $660. Waiting on a call back from the dealer with their price.

      So sounds like volvo stuck us with another gem here in exchange for our diligence in seeking out later XC's that don't have the transmission issues.
      FOR SALE - 2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, Snabb Intake & Turbo Pipe, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
      SOLD - 2007 XC90 V8 Sport - IPD Sways/Subframe Inserts/Strut Bar Conversion, Stoptech Rotors

    31. #29
      Junior Member safetyfirst's Avatar
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      FWIW, I'd suggest not going with an aftermarket axle. They are not so good. As you plan, get a remanufactured Volvo axle. I just installed on in my V8 Xc90 - bought it from FCP Euro. Check the axle carefully upon receipt. My Volvo axle from FCP was missing a retaining ring........
      2005 XC90 V8 AWD, Silver / Oak, IPD Sways and Endlinks, Shod with 19" Vulcanis and Pirelli Scorpion Verde AS+
      CB-shaft failure at 36k miles and Valve Body failure at 44k - thankful for 7yr-100k VIP extended warranty.
      Head-on collision at 49k miles - thankful for being in a Volvo.

    32. #30
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      Bringing this back from the dead.

      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      The inner joints wear out too, regardless of the boot tearing or not. Especially on our passenger side axles. That's why I wouldn't recommend re-booting unless it's a close to new axle. I've been down this road many times before and I've tried all the options.

      Volvo cv axle inner joint life span in my experience is about 90k miles when the car comes new from the factory, and 30k miles if they are replaced by Volvo with a Volvo axle. That's the passenger side axle only, the driver's side lasts much longer.

      Any Volvo axle that you can buy from any dealer will be re-manufactured, that's why they don't last nearly as long as when the car is new.
      What a nuisance... so ~$650 from Volvo gets you a reman axle that will last about 30K miles, and there are no good alternatives. Unbelievable. I feel a slight vibration in our V8 XC90 under heavy acceleration. Suspect the inner pass side tripod joint, grabbed the axle and feel a tiny bit of radial play. Have heard it was not uncommon for these to get changed under warranty when they were newish due to vibration.

      Thinking about going with a new aftermarket and keeping the OE's to see if I can find some reputable outfit to reman them. I seem to recall some place that had a good rep out in CO but can't remember their name.
      2007 XC90 V8 - 2005 V70R M66
      2015 F150 Supercrew 2WD 3.5L

    33. #31
      colorado driveshaft. http://coloradodriveshaft.com/products.htm but I don't think they do axles.
      2010 XC90 V8 - 113k miles
      2012 S60 T5 - 160k miles
      2009 C30 - Totaled. It ate a minivan at 35mph.
      2006 S40 - at 217k it was tired and needed too much.
      2008 XC90 3.2 - traded with 220,780 miles

    34. #32
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      Thanks. If/when I swap axles I might have to contact some custom places to see how these go together and if they can upgrade the CV's on the existing axles somehow, vs. regrinding. Or if there is a place that re-case hardens the races post machining.

      Like northwestmoose says above, looks like Volvo stuck us with another gem. F'in oldest V8 model isn't even 10 yrs old and we're long out of new replacement driveline parts? F.
      2007 XC90 V8 - 2005 V70R M66
      2015 F150 Supercrew 2WD 3.5L

    35. #33
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Jul 2014
      Location
      Omaha, NE
      Posts
      347
      Re: removal trick. Just learned this from jimmy57 in matthews Volvo forum. The axle has, especially the driver L side, has a C-clip. So rotate the axle a bit, hopefully the OPEN END of the C-Clip faces downward, this is when you can use a chisel to push the axle out.

      Re: mileage at which boots are torn.

      I see mostly reports from V8, T6 passenger side (too much heat from exhaust etc.).

      My 2005 XC90 2.5T, the AWD variery, has 120K miles. The boots (Inner and Outer) seem fine, no cracks.

      Does anyone here have a 2.5T and can tell us when your CV Boots cracked at what miles? Just curious...

    36. #34
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      San Diego, CA.
      Posts
      188
      Quote Originally Posted by 377Z View Post
      Thanks. If/when I swap axles I might have to contact some custom places to see how these go together and if they can upgrade the CV's on the existing axles somehow, vs. regrinding. Or if there is a place that re-case hardens the races post machining.

      Like northwestmoose says above, looks like Volvo stuck us with another gem. F'in oldest V8 model isn't even 10 yrs old and we're long out of new replacement driveline parts? F.
      I know this is an old thread, but thought I would throw in some info.
      The later passenger side axle has a larger diameter axle between the gearbox and carrier bearing, and it's hard to find the right one even by chassis number. Finding gearbox seals for the right side where the axle goes in is even worse, since the Volvo parts look-up at the dealer gets you the wrong seal in hand.
      Anyway, I replaced my right side shaft with one from DSS, https://diversifiedshaftssolutions.com, and the thing was beautiful. It was brand-new, looked just like the original Volvo. I bought it from an online parts store for about $150 including shipping. After a few miles, I had pulled the shaft apart while doing some other work, and blew the boot off and dropped some grease out of it, so I had a look inside, and that looke properly machined and finished, too. I contacted DSS to ask about what kind of grease to put back in and if the CV joints needed to be "clocked". The support guy was really helpful, but couldn't help much since the head engineer was out of the country. Thinking about not wanting to put it back together wrong, I asked about a replacement, and he offered the same deal; $150 delivered. I ended up buying CV grease and clamps from NAPA, and life has been good since then (4 months +/-?).
      2009 XC90 FWD 3.2, 2013 S60 T5
      In the past: '89 745, '91 940, '82 242, '67 122S, '67 123GT, '71 142E, '62 PV544.

    37. #35
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Chicago & D.C. Metro
      Posts
      466
      Quote Originally Posted by Capndirk View Post
      I know this is an old thread, but thought I would throw in some info.
      The later passenger side axle has a larger diameter axle between the gearbox and carrier bearing, and it's hard to find the right one even by chassis number. Finding gearbox seals for the right side where the axle goes in is even worse, since the Volvo parts look-up at the dealer gets you the wrong seal in hand.
      Anyway, I replaced my right side shaft with one from DSS, https://diversifiedshaftssolutions.com, and the thing was beautiful. It was brand-new, looked just like the original Volvo. I bought it from an online parts store for about $150 including shipping. After a few miles, I had pulled the shaft apart while doing some other work, and blew the boot off and dropped some grease out of it, so I had a look inside, and that looke properly machined and finished, too. I contacted DSS to ask about what kind of grease to put back in and if the CV joints needed to be "clocked". The support guy was really helpful, but couldn't help much since the head engineer was out of the country. Thinking about not wanting to put it back together wrong, I asked about a replacement, and he offered the same deal; $150 delivered. I ended up buying CV grease and clamps from NAPA, and life has been good since then (4 months +/-?).
      Keep us updated if they last. I wonder if we can give GKN some feedback somehow that we are all looking for their front axles. Maybe keep on contacting FCP so they can pressure their GKN sales rep or contact GKN directly through some other channels.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 143k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

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