Descent into Hell - er, no I mean a pv444. - Page 3
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    1. #71
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      When I was working on my 544, I couldn't find windlace. So, I went to a furniture upholsterer to have the windlace made. I had it made out of vinyl to match my seats. I used carpet tacks to attach it, because the old stuff was put in using tacks. Sorry to say, I had the headliner removed when I did the lace, Then I put a new headliner in. I also replaced a lot of the material (I don't know what it's called) that the lace was nailed to. This was all done 20 years ago and my memory isn't as good as it used to be.
      Last edited by gearbasher; 10-21-2018 at 07:54 AM.

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    3. #72
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      I think the existing windlace on my car was done using the same approach. But it is really decrepit now. The headliner is also quite old, but I don't want to go about replacing it at present. I may try doing some experiment to see if contact cement might work.

      In the meantime, after my post last night, I did find this video on headliner replacement for the PV544.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGYedrWWxRE

    4. #73
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      More homeowner chores this morning, but I sprained my ankle and gave up.

      Worked on the Volvo in the afternoon. Got the brake & clutch pedals reinstalled. Got the gas linkage installed. Still need the gas pedal to go on. Slow going. I could have used another set of hands.

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    6. #74
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      That's a great link to the headliner video! Even in Dutch (which I certainly don't speak), it's quite enlightening.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    7. #75
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      Over the last few weeks, the ball & socket gas pedal has been reinstalled. It just presses onto one spherical ball at the top and two at the bottom.

      Under the car, the emergency brake cable has been reinstalled as well as the dimmer switch casing. The emergency brake has too much slack, but I didn’t see how I could tighten the cable up. Makes me wonder how much the rear brake pads are worn.

      Took the opportunity to grease the brake & clutch pedal pivots and the left front wheel suspension components. Sixty years of dirt encrusted grease scraped off the suspension components!

      Test fit the kick panels and tried to figure out how to attach. Most likely, I’ll just screw them on. Can’t see how the original panels were attached. The metal here and up under the dash is pretty rusty. Sent off for some rust converter and rust encapsulator paints. Not sure if I will actually paint because it looks like it will be a very messy endeavor.

      Mission creep and I undertook the shift tower challenge. The shift tower hole in the transmission tunnel looked like it had been stuffed with foam or rags to keep oil and fumes from entering the cabin.

      [IMG][/IMG]


      Not only did the material looked oil soaked, but it was clear from oily deposits in the cabin and on the carpet that it didn’t exactly work.

      The hole in the shift tower piece was a bit mutilated as well, and the whole piece, top and bottom was covered in sludge.


      I removed the shift tower piece and then the material. Essentially, it was just a wrag ultimately wrapped with medical gauze and then some sort of tape.


      [IMG][/IMG]




      The transmission is not stock. A plate under (above) the transmission mount support indicates that the transmission is a Type M-3, Det Nr 254160 and Tillv Nr 1450. The transmission is marked #656552 on top, and has castings on the driver’s side, “Kobing Sweeden”.

      [IMG][/IMG]


      My plan is to close up the big hole in the transmission tower piece. Here I've already done some metal work, reshaping the right side and reducing the diameter of the hole a bit.

      [IMG][/IMG]


      Initially I thought I might flatten it out completely. But not sure how to shrink the metal except by slicing and removal. I’m thinking it would be easier and faster for me just to cover the hole in metal (need to cut a donut and try my welding skills) or fiberglass. Will start the motor and see how much the transmission shakes before proceeding further.

      A mighty seat belt conundrum awaits.
      Last edited by blueosprey90; 11-02-2018 at 09:46 PM.

    8. #76
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      The stock shifter boot should cover that hole nicely.

      dean

    9. #77
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      You may want to consider using a boot from a later-model 544, to properly fit over the chromed base of your later-model shift lever. The 444 boot is slimmer and much more vertical, which fits over the taller boss on the gearbox, and slimmer shift lever base. This difference is why the hole was cut and enlarged on yours. It should close up OK once you get the various openings right.

      OBTW I would not close up that opening any further. The trans needs a good bit of room to move, especially when the mount gets softer with age.
      Last edited by tmtalpey; 11-03-2018 at 10:53 AM.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    10. #78
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      Cool

      If you are unhappy with the engine in the MG, why not swap in a Volvo engine ? :>) There is a fellow named Ole Anderson who vintage races a Byers-Volvo. His Byers is based on an MGA - Byers was a lesser known body manufacturer similar to Devin.

    11. #79
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      I have been given a B-18 engine that came out of an MG-TD. I also acquired a B-20 engine. Both are sitting in storage. Sanctioning bodies would frown on the swapping into the MGA.

      My big plan for the winter is to rebuild my MGA engine with a hybrid MGA/MGB ghost main crank. I appear to be the test mule, as I don't think this has been done previously. Has presented some challenges as both the crank and the block needed modification. From this point, machining is done and I hope that it will be a straight forward assembly. The only item that I think I still need is a flywheel.

      Photo of stock crank versus the MGA/MGB hybrid ghost main crank. This is going into a 3 main bearing engine.



      [IMG
      ][/IMG]

    12. #80
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      Had the car up and running on jack stands to check the amount of transmission wobble.

      Car didn't start as readily as I had hoped, but a spritz of starter fluid did thetrick. Motor was a bit rougher than I remembered.

      Initially,I was unable to get the transmission to shift into any and all gears while thecar was running. But when shut off, I was able to shift into each gear without difficulty. Ultimately, I started the car while 4th gear was engaged. This freed up whatever was binding and I was thereafter able to shift into all gears without difficulty.

      I didn't have much transmission wobble, but it did feel like my driveshaft was unbalanced.

      I got the car going to about 50 mph before I decided that discretion was the better part of valor, and shut down.

      Otherwise, no progress as I keep getting side tracked by other projects. Winter is closing in.

    13. #81
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by blueosprey90 View Post
      Initially,I was unable to get the transmission to shift into any and all gears while thecar was running. But when shut off, I was able to shift into each gear without difficulty. Ultimately, I started the car while 4th gear was engaged. This freed up whatever was binding and I was thereafter able to shift into all gears without difficulty.
      The clutch disc can stick to the flywheel or pressure plate surface, alternatively the disc can bind up on the input shaft splines. This happens a lot on tractors when they sit, the Farmer's Fix is to block the pedal down when not using the equipment. In the 444/544, an option is to stick something in the linkage down alongside the bell housing while someone presses the pedal in, to keep it (slightly) disengaged.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    14. #82
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      Clutch sticking: Thank's TM. That's a factoid that is good to know. But how to unstick it if the car isn't on jack stands?

    15. #83
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      Mmm, unsticking can indeed be hard. One approach that might work in the 444/544 is to have a helper hold the clutch pedal down while you get a long screwdriver into the bellhousing to attempt to move the disc either forward or back, to release it from the surface it's stuck against (most likely the flywheel side). As you know, this requires getting under there, in all likelihood.

      Failing that, you pretty much have to raise the rear wheels, run the car at moderate revs in high gear, then hold down the clutch and stab the brake. The shock wave will generally unstick things. But sometimes, once this kind of thing starts happening, it keeps happening unless you're driving it regularly. Or of course, until you tear it down and clean the heck out of the sliding parts.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    16. #84
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      I finished the transmission’s shift housing cover. I used a piece of neoprene to seal off the hole for the shifter. I initially attached the neoprene with some 3M spray adhesive, but then added three pop rivets to insure it stayed in place. The neoprene turned out to be a bit too stiff and pulled away at the edges, but still a major improvement over what had previously existed.







      I test fit the completed cover and started the car. Seemed towork fine with what transmission shake I had when starting and shutting down.

      I left the car running to burn off any internal water vapor and managed to run out of gas. I'm not unhappy because the gas was getting stale. And now I know where empty is on the gauge.


      I also finished the passenger seat and installed the seat adjustment lever that I fabricated. The seats had been previously recovered and covering material butchered. Although I need a better sewing machine and need to learn to sew, I sewed up some tears, sewed in some hems and inserted reinforcement wires. I ended up using zip ties rather than hog rings to hold everything together, somewhat fearful that the zip ties will break in cold weather.

      The seat adjustment lever, however, seems to function correctly.



      Last edited by blueosprey90; 12-12-2018 at 09:16 AM.

    17. #85
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      Spent the day mostlycontorted on my back trying to prep the passenger side upper firewall, kickpanel and under dash areas for some paint. Mostly soundproofing adhesive and surface rust to be removed. After struggling all day, I finally got smartand removed the glove box and the radio blanking plate. Now I can see and this should make thepainting a bit easier. Plan to useEastwood Rust Encapsulate as the primer.
      Last edited by blueosprey90; 12-23-2018 at 04:58 PM.

    18. #86
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      My rust stabilization project is getting out of hand!


      This time I want to pull the firewall soundproofing, paint the firewall and kick panel areas, then replace the firewall soundproofing with new. By new, I ordered some matting material from VP-Autoparts listed for the 544. On the 444, what I have is some sort of linoleum faced mat. The 544 is just matting painted with a plastic type paint on the inner surface. Cheezy, but better that what's on there now.

      So I'm pulling stuff apart on the driver's side. And I come to the heater control valve. I have no idea how it works and if it works.






      Attached is a long copper wire (?) that seemed to be stuffed in a very haphazard fashion into the ducting that feeds the Heater control Valve.





      Where do I run this long coper wire? What is its purpose? And how do I test to determine if the heater control valve works?


      Thanks.

    19. #87
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      It's not wire, it's a tube which leads to a bulb at the end, or at least, there should be a bulb on the end. This is the temperature feedback which regulates the valve. The bulb, which is a fluid reservoir, just needs to be somewhere in the heated air flow.

      It's not too hard to find a replacement,it was used on numerous 60's vehicles.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    20. #88
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      Found this blog on another 1957 Restoration. Keeping it as a resource.

      http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/...ornia-survivor


    21. #89
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      I’ve spent a solid four weeks working on the interior firewall, under dash and kick panel areas.

      My firewall mat was rather decrepit, my kick panel areas uncovered and unattractive with dirt, rust and old adhesive and I had a lot of surface rust high up under the dash. I stripped everything down, cleaned everything up and finished with rattle can Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

      The firewall mat was the biggest, most time consuming problem. In the driver and passenger areas, the old firewall mat consisted of what appeared to be ˝ inch coconut fiber batting covered with a perhaps 3/8” thick hard pressboard. Each side was sewn to a piece of linoleum that wrapped around the middle console. Once I started to remove the mat, it pretty much disintegrated.

      I scouted around and was unable to find replacement materials, although I do believe I could have gotten the batting. I took a chance and bought the firewall mat, part 691585S, that is for the PV544 and P210 Duett. I spent a few days trying to install this but not much matched up to my PV444 firewall and I gave up.

      I picked up a piece of what I suppose is called a carpet runner from the local building supply (Home Depot). It was actually a pretty nice piece of Neoprene type material, no pattern, perhaps 3/8” thick, no static. I used the firewall mat for the PV544 to cut the basic shape. Then with many, many, many test fittings, I located and cut all of the openings, including the holes for the retainer plugs that hold it up on the firewall. The driver’s side was a particularly difficult as was cutting the holes for the “heat duct” through the center console to the passenger side. I didn’t have that heat duct, per se, but I made one up out of aluminum and slid it through the console area.

      Photo comparison of the two firewall mats. PV544 on top (slightly mutilated by me). PV444 on bottom - fabricated by me.



      [IMG][/IMG]



      On the driver’s side, I applied 1/8” Hushmat on the firewall and then 1/8” Hushmat on the backside of the firewall mat. On the passenger side, I applied 1/8” Hushmat to the firewall and then ˝” Hushmat to the back side of the firewall mat. I really wanted to apply more soundproofing on the drivers side, but would have had a major fitting problem if I did so. I also applied the 1/8” Hushmat to the back of the mat at the center console.

      I replace the heating ductwork (newly re-painted) (my heater control valve tested out), cut off or ground down any sharp points from the penetrating screw in the engine bay, reinstalled the coil.

      I plan to install kick panels. The pieces are nothing more than pressed cardboard, plasticized on the inside surface. After test fitting, I needed to trim the forward edges a bit. I then cut and applied a vinyl fabric. They came out pretty nicely. I plan to screw them on.

      [IMG][/IMG]

    22. #90
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      That does look nice and tidy.

    23. #91
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      Warm enough yesterday to work outside. Remove the parking brake cable on driver’s side. Repaired (?) the fitting at the brake drum. The brake cable’s protective sheathing appears made of plastic, while the fitting is crimpable metal, perhaps lead. I used epoxy on the joint interface, then reinforced on the exterior with a “cast” made from angel hair fiberglass.

    24. #92
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      Parking Brake Video Question.


      https://youtu.be/xJDNdeffLNQ



    25. #93
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      bo90;

      I just watched the video...that linkage is loose and flopping in the breeze because Cable is disconnected, so Return Spring is not providing any preload...you can disassemble and double-check all the linkage pivot points for worn pegs or oblong holes, but I expect once everything is properly assembled, and Return Spring is providing preload, you wouldn't find anywhere near that level of slop (if any!). That having been said, the direction you were moving linkage in in the video is at right angle to the actual action in use, so matters even less and wouldn't contribute to lost motion during activation, because action is while Cable is in tension, not pushing (like a rope through a pipe, so side to side motion will occ because of slop)...

      Regarding welding the E-Brake Cable...one can't see detail of how its "broken", (sheath of a Bowden Cable needs to be intact to stand up to compression (and solidly secured with respect to mechanism), and inner needs to be intact but flexible, and stand up to enormous tension in use...I have to question what can be welded to repair there...) so I can't make specific comment, but it seems to me few cable issues can be remedied by welding...replacements (for 122 anyway) are inexpensive enough...I wouldn't consider trying to repair Cable unless it was something which could clearly be remedied without impacting reliability...Reminder: E-Brake is your "Plan B", and when you need it, you NEED IT!, so you need it to be ABSOLUTELY RELIABLE, PERIOD!

      Cheers

      PS. I wave when I fly over New Milford later today!

    26. #94
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      Thank you Ron.

      I searched quite hard to find a proper replacement brake cable, but the part # for a '57 seems to be unique. And not available. So I'm not sure I should go up to a 544 brake cable or down to an older model PV444. I pulled some measurements off the old cable and will take a photo and perhaps someone can identify an appropriate replacement for me.

      As noted in post #91, I was unable to weld the sheath back to the end fitting because the sheath was made of some sort of plastic - but it looks like the old style armored BX cable used in house wiring in the '50s and '60s. With not much work, I was able to get the fitting to slide back over the sheathing, but the overlap was maybe 3/8" at most. I used an epoxy glue. Then I made an exterior "cast" out of fiberglass overlaying the 3/8" joint and extending an inch or so down the sheath. It seems strong enough just looking at it, but I suppose it can fail with my first use. The cable slides fairly freely and I'll probably lubricate. I think I have some dry graphite in a spray.

      I think I'm going to try to get the brake cable hooked up and see if it works and leave the slop to another day as I want to get the car on the road this spring and I still have plenty of other tasks. The removed brake drum looks like it needs to be replaced as there is a very noticeable wear pattern. The car will still be on jack stands for a while and I can defer a decision. Perhaps try to pull the brake drum off the other side assuming I have enough courage to attempt it.





    27. #95
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      bo90;

      As long as sheath does not collapse during actuation, it will be fine...longer cables will always work, because you can always loose a bit of extra length in an "S" curve, just shorter will not work (no cable is going to decrease the distance between two end-points!).

      Cheers

    28. #96
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      Underside passenger side floor: Spent weekend prepping the underside floor, then painting with POR-15. Hammer & dolly work on the flange damaged from improper jacking. Not perfect, but much improved. Two coats of POR-15, one coat of Eastwood Chassis black. Will probably finish with one more coat of the Eastwood.

      With this very unpleasant task out of the way, I can start to attack all the left over loose ends and get the car on the road.

      Seat belts are my next target.

    29. #97
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      Oil change, primarily because I had a nuisance oil leak at the drain plug. Replaced a copper compression washer with a fiber washer. Toasted the copper washer trying to anneal it, so had to use what was in the box of bits.

      Had some oil filters in my spares. A Fram CH-847 PL that I decided not to use and will probably discard. I used a #551304 (box also marked 6F14C3 -/ 110110Q1) of unknown origin and manufacture. Filters appear very flimsy. I’m not sure how to prime the filter. Will probably pull the plugs and spin the engine until I get oil pressure.

      Still fiddling with my parking brake. Added a return spring that was missing where the main cable joins the cables leading to the brakes. But I still can’t get the driver’s side rear to engage fully. I have a missing front anchor point and a rube goldberg repair and I think the cables have a slightly different pull length. But for now, I’m done.

      I did add an anti-rattle clip on the brake shoe separating bar and now I simply need to see if there is a torque spec for the castellated nut before finishing up with the hub.

      With some JB Weld epoxy, fabricated some shoulder bolts to attach the 3 point seat belts to the B pillars. There is an existing hidden nut in the pillar that I will use, although I think it is only sized at M8 (or perhaps M10). I wish it had more meat, but it is what it is. I should be a bit safer with a shoulder harness.

      I had a major snafu rebuilding my race motor for the MGA, so I have been able to continue to devote attention to the PV 444. But first race weekend is in three weeks. Will be running my spare engine.

    30. #98
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by blueosprey90 View Post
      I’m not sure how to prime the filter. Will probably pull the plugs and spin the engine until I get oil pressure.
      You have a B16, right? It's sufficient to just fill the filter with oil before spinning it on. Basically, dribble it into the center hole of the filter and swish it around, it will soak into the paper and get behind it into the can. Keep adding oil until it starts to dump out when you rotate the filter horizontally. Then, maneuver it the same way and spin it on.

      I'd do this even if you plan to prime the system. It takes a while to fill the filter, this process cuts to the chase.

      The best filters you can get are the Volvo ones IMO. I bought a case years ago and still going through 'em.

      [edit] Oh, wait, you have an early B16, with the through-bolt on the filter housing. Yeah, my B14 is even worse, its housing is vertical. I still suggest saturating the filter with oil but there won't be any extra liquid. As long as the engine has some oil in the galleries, you'll still be fine.

      I don't like the idea of JB Weld on your anchor bolts. In a crash, it won't stay put. Can you find a metal sleeve? That would allow a hardened washer under the bolt head, for extra security. Use high-grade bolts too, obviously.
      Last edited by tmtalpey; 04-13-2019 at 09:01 AM.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    31. #99
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      On the shoulder bolts, I used a flange washer, then extended the flange with two SAE washers, then I added a piece that I made out of those connectors for threaded rod. The connector is hex shaped, threaded and is about an inch long. I placed it in my drill and then ran it up against the grinding wheel to flatten out all of the corners. Then cut it down to about a third of an inch with a dremmel tool. Glommed on the JB Weld and screwed down the threaded piece. Then some paint.





    32. #100
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      Didn't get any work done on the Volvo, but Ron and Chris from over in the Amazon forums (Cms22) invited me to lunch. I got away from the office. Enjoyed myself and learned something. Ron was different than I expected. In a good way. And rather tolerant of incompetent Volvo wannabe mechanics.

      On my ride home, I was thinking that maybe I should try to revise my clutch linkage. Maybe try to make something up using spherical studded rod ends similar to what is on my throttle linkage.

      Later in the evening, I did some more race prep for the MGA. I was between 1/16" to 1/8" toe in by string alignment and was going to leave it. But I had the wheels off, front end up to bleed the brakes and to chase down that slight wobble in the steering on hard left turns. A loosening shock absorber. So it was easy enough to tweak the front end alignment 1/8 of a turn on each side to try to get closer to zero toe. Should be spot on.

      Last edited by blueosprey90; 04-26-2019 at 07:51 AM.

    33. #101
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      Forum;

      We did have a nice Italian lunch get together...sharing our Volvo (and only slightly Volvo-related) experiences, followed by an SU inspection and question session (where I hope I was able to clear up a few finer points).

      bo90; Please keep your Dashpot lubed!
      ...and it wouldn't be the first time I was called "different", but at least it was in a good way, so thanks (I think)...

      Cheers

    34. #102
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      Quote Originally Posted by blueosprey90 View Post
      Didn't get any work done on the Volvo, but Ron and Chris from over in the Amazon forums (Cms22) invited me to lunch. I got away from the office. Enjoyed myself and learned something. Ron was different than I expected. In a good way. And rather tolerant of incompetent Volvo wannabe mechanics.

      On my ride home, I was thinking that maybe I should try to revise my clutch linkage. Maybe try to make something up using spherical studded rod ends similar to what is on my throttle linkage.

      Later in the evening, I did some more race prep for the MGA. I was between 1/16" to 1/8" toe in by string alignment and was going to leave it. But I had the wheels off, front end up to bleed the brakes and to chase down that slight wobble in the steering on hard left turns. A loosening shock absorber. So it was easy enough to tweak the front end alignment 1/8 of a turn on each side to try to get closer to zero toe. Should be spot on.

      This incompetent Volvo wannabe mechanic appreciated the opportunity to meet up with two Volvo enthusiasts who, as defined by their interests, clearly qualify as "different." In a good way.

      Lunch was great but the conversation was better... it was good meeting you, BO90; thanks again Ron, for taking the time to enlighten us!
      Chris


      1966 122S B-18D/M40 4-dr, Sea Green/Brown
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      2012 Audi A6 3.0T quattro, Aviator Blue/Brown

    35. #103
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      New Milford, CT
      Posts
      142
      Race car is loaded up for Lime Rock tomorrow and Saturday. Weather expected to be unsettled with showers.


      I think it is David Greenlees who will running an 1800. Rumor is that Alan Ward (Cape Cod) is coming with a Volvo 544. I knew him from the days when he raced a Formcar. Also I wouldn't be surprised if John Schieffelin shows up with his 544, although he may bring something older.

      There will be some exhibition runs and I had visions to putting my 444 through some paces. Not to be. Car still on jack stands.




    36. #104
      Junior Member Csm22's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 2015
      Location
      Xenia OH
      Posts
      243
      Sharp-looking race car... good hunting!
      Chris


      1966 122S B-18D/M40 4-dr, Sea Green/Brown
      2007 XC90 3.2 AWD, Shadow Blue/Graphite Gray
      2012 Audi A6 3.0T quattro, Aviator Blue/Brown

    37. #105
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      New Milford, CT
      Posts
      142
      Vintage Wrench was at the VSCCA drive's school (Lime Rock Park) this weekend. School over, he managed to find himself in my race. I don't know how the rest of the run went, but this was probably enough for him to go to the nearest bar for a "restorative".


      https://youtu.be/btg3oIDoK2I




      Last edited by blueosprey90; 05-05-2019 at 11:38 AM.

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