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    1. #71
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bmo Pete View Post
      Excellent DIY!! Not sure if I missed it, but do the newer cars, 2014-2018 have the power connection/wire since the OEM knob for these does not light up?
      The older shifter has a power connection since it lights up on the side.

      Sent from my ASUS_Z017DA using Tapatalk
      2012 S60 T5 Savile Gray/Beachwood

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    3. #72
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      Quote Originally Posted by Config View Post
      Very nice and even better pics. Congrats and welcome aboard!
      +1 (Love my S60.......)
      2012 S60 T5 (OSD 4/2012) Ember Black/Offblack l Premium,Multimedia,Climate,Dynamic l BLIS/PCC/ABL/F&R Park Assist/Sport Pedals/Chrome Endpipes

      2016 XC90 T6 (OSD 5/2016) Crystal White Pearl/Amber/Black l Momentum Plus,Vision,Convenience l 20" Alloy wheels/Wood steering wheel/Child booster seat/Black headliner/PA II

    4. #73
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Unhappy

      I was still getting some creaks and pops within the door panels, especially over rough bumps and expansion gaps on the interstate, so I removed them again to figure out which parts were the culprit. It turns out the window switch panels were most of the damage.



      I deadened all of the clips (yellow in picture) with butyl rubber and also applied some foam tape to the top seam where the window switch interfaces with the door panel at the top leading edge.

      I also purchased some PU foam padding from Amazon (took nearly a month to arrive from China) and placed a few squares in the door panel to help with standoff and with vibrations at key areas where wiring interfaces with the door panel.



      I added some foam tape to the BLIS/tweeter pod interface as well.



      These helped pretty significantly.

      I'm going to now work toward getting the subwoofer/amp installed to take the workload off my door woofers and fill in the low end (which will probably negate most of the work I did to deaden the doors/panels in the first place).
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

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    6. #74
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Did my first service interval and was anxious to see the results from my UOA. Clean bill of health with a 7,500 mile service interval.

      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    7. #75
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Had the day off, so I finally got around to finishing my mini amp and subwoofer install into the S60.

      I've done car audio for many of my cars in years past, swapping out decks, running battery wires to trunk, the whole deal... but this was a different animal due to the factory integration and MOST system. Thankfully, others before me, specifically mark-sf and krn, had figured it all out. Thanks guys. If you were local I'd buy you some beers.

      These are their threads, specifically:

      mark-sf: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...to-the-Low-End
      krn: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...orcessor-(DSP)

      Also, the accessories installations on the Volvo website are super helpful for pulling out trim pieces. http://accessories.volvocars.com/en-us/S60(11-)/2012

      I wanted to do another DIY thread for this as well, even though it's been done already by these guys, because, well, the more the merrier.

      For my install, I just wanted something simple and easy, no external processor or DSP, just an amp to run of of my several sub enclosures I've collected over the years and piled in the basement.

      For this duty, I purchased a small Class D monoblock amp to stash under the trunk floor tray, and power with the 40A towing accessory power line in the trunk fuse box.

      Kenwood KAC-M3001: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-nNcR2Y...KAC-M3001.html

      I found it for much cheaper (~$80) on Amazon. This unit is tiny and able to push 300W RMS into 2 ohm, and 200W RMS into 4 ohm, enough for my 4 ohm enclosures.

      More important, it had a 30A fuse rating, which worked well for the 40A line.



      The fuse box location and the circuit in question are below. Fuse location 11 is the one you're looking for.



      To energize it, you need to buy the fuse. I bought a 30A one since the amp was only going to pull that max anyways. You will need one of these JCASE fuses:

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

      DO NOT install the fuse until you are done wiring, that line is unswitched and is hot at all times.

      I started with installation of the amp and power in the trunk. First step was pulling out the floor and removing the left felt cargo cover, which had four plastic nuts and two push pins holding it into the car - step # 42 in http://accessories.volvocars.com/en-...-410972-1/2012

      Once I opened up the cover, I found the fuse box and the wires wrapped in gray foam. Inside the gray foam is the power connector for the towing accessory (the since red/black wire). Instead of cutting the wire, I used Posi-taps, as they're cleaner and more durable than splices and other crimping vampire taps. I bought some good tinned copper 10 gauge cable from amazon with flexible silicone tubing. This stuff was true 10 gauge, so well enough for the task of 30A.





      I spliced in the power cable on the Posi-tap and taped up the connector back with the open foam.



      I attached the ground wire to the rear left ground bolt that is underneath the left tail lamp. Consulting the wiring diagram, there were several everywhere in the trunk, but this was the most convenient spot, since I was already in there.



      The power and ground cables were run along the top of the wiring harness tunnel, using the latching points to zip tie the cables along the way, and ran them behind the Sirius XM module and bracket.



      As you can see in the photo, I was able to nestle the Kenwood amp right next to the Sirius module with no problem. I attached the wires to the amp and went searching for remote turn-on 12V power...

      If I had read the previous threads a bit more closely, I would have realized there is no switched 12V power in the area at all... before seeing that, I tried the 12V socket fuse in the trunk fuse box, and the Sirius XM module, which were both hot with the car off. This absolutely makes no sense to me, but whatever....

      Several posts referenced using the 12V power outlet in the center console, so I did that as well. I ran a 12 gauge wire for this purpose from the mono amp. That did the job just fine. As referenced by other threads before me, signal sensing turn-on will not work, and others here have also stated that remote-turn on adapters also did not work, so that might be your only option.

      Once I connected the remote turn on wire, the rear installation of the amp was finished, and I then worked to get the RCA and remote turn on wires to under the passenger seat. I initially tried to remove the rear seat bottom, but that proved to be a major pain, even with knowing how to do it - referenced here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...k-seat-cushion. I couldn't get the latch to work to save my life, so after five minutes I said to hell with it, and just tore the side vinyl padded panel out - step # 37 in http://accessories.volvocars.com/en-...-410972-1/2012.

      The instructions for that a bit intelligible, and I ended up breaking the tab # 2. The first step is to pull on top to pull out tab #1. Tab # 2 is actually sideways, so you have to pull away from the door frame (which is not what I initially did). Tab # 3 on the bottom pulls out when you pull up away from the car floor. In any case, tab # 2 was not necessary for the panel to snap back on and stay in place.

      Pull the trim along the door up - step # 38 in http://accessories.volvocars.com/en-...410972-1/2012) Once you do that, you can run the RCA and remote turn on wire under neath the seat and under the trim panel.



      I ended up running the wires all the way along the side of the car, tucking them under the plastic trim along the side of the car until you got to the front of the car where there is a clear gap in the carpet near the front of the passenger seat.

      Now it was time to pull the passenger seat away (steps 1-4 in http://accessories.volvocars.com/en-...410972-1/2012). These are 13 mm hex bolts. Once you remove all four bolts, push the seat as far back as it will go and tilt the seat back as far forward as it will go. Once you do that, then just push the seat back against it's rear seat frame legs. With that, you don't have to remove the seat, or disconnect the wires to the seat.

      Take note that you'll get the most extension rearward if you push the seat back as far as you can first. If you don't, you risk pulling on the wires to the seat through the harness.

      There are three 10 mm hex bolts holding the amp in place. Remove those and now you can pull the amp connectors out and work with them with ease. The output line is what you're looking to work with.





      For the audio signal to the amp, I used Posi-taps to splice into the Front Left and Front Right audio channels.

      The Front Left harness colors are Green/Black (+) and Gray/Black (-).

      The Front Right harness colors are Violet/Black (+) and Yellow/Black (-)



      I had some Kicker RCA cables sitting around and used those to splice into the leads to make RCAs (more on that later). You can also see the seam in the carpet, which is where I ran the RCA and remote turn on wire. I neatly tucked the turn on wire behind the carpet, behind the center console panel (step # 8 in http://accessories.volvocars.com/en-...410972-1/2012) and through the hole at the bottom of the cupholder area to attach to the 12V switched power. I used a Posi-tap again to splice the remote turn on wire into the 12V line.





      To be able to adjust the gain on the amp, I added in a remote level control (PAC LC-1). I initially tried to find a good place to put it in the center console area, but instead just put in on the floor in front of the OEM amp. My aim wasn't to be changing the subwoofer gain on the fly, at least not too much, but have an easy way to adjust the gain when tuning the system.



      This addition proved to be more troublesome than I had anticipated. I initially closed everything up and ran the car around, finally noticing that the Front Right speaker channel was completely out. Fearing I blew the OEM amp, I unscrewed all the connectors and checked the amp without the added leads to the subwoofer RCA, and the right channel worked again (whew!!!!!! I was annoyed at the prospect of buying another $600 OEM amplifier).

      (As a side, if you ever do need to buy another OEM amp, the part number is 30659598 )

      I rewired everything again, making sure all wires were right polarity (the stupid Kicker interconnects are vague as to which leads are - or +... it turns out blue is + and gray is - by the way, I had them backwards the first time), and checked the audio. This time, the Front Left channel was out!

      I was, and am still a bit unsure as to what is going on... maybe someone who understand electrical wiring can clue me in and take a look at the PAC to see if it's the culprit, my Ph.D. in materials is useless in this regard... but it turns out that if I only run the mono (white) side to the PAC and not both the mono and stereo, then everything works perfectly fine. For some reason, when I run both left and right channels to the PAC, one of the channels on the OEM amp shorts somehow and goes into protection mode.

      In any case, I just went with the mono side and ran with it. Seemed to work just fine.



      I put everything back together and tried a few of my sub enclosures.

      I initially tried my JL Audio 8" Microsub (ported), as I liked the small form factor and it because it worked great in my WRX. It sounded OK, but wasn't as punchy in the 30-50 Hz range as I would have liked. The low end seemed to be a bit loose. I had a Clarion EQS-746 driving the line level voltage up in the WRX (it was 7V or so at max gain to the amp), so that probably was the reason why it worked well in that car.

      Next was a 10" JL sub in a small sealed box. It sounded good as well, but it takes more power to push a sealed sub, so it was shelved as well.

      The sub that ended up staying in my car was an Alpine Type S 8" bandpass enclosure. This hit much harder under 50 Hz and sealed the deal. 40+ Hz was flat, but dropped real quick under 40. For now, it works great though. It also takes up very little space in the trunk.



      Very happy with the results. In the EQ, I set 60 Hz down 7 or 8 notches, and pulled the subwoofer amp gain up to match the bass levels of the speakers.
      Last edited by p.rico; 12-01-2017 at 07:41 PM.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    8. #76
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      No big things, but changed out the cupholder in the center console. Initially I was just going to replace the rubber gasket portion that has cracked to hell, but I then also broke out the rear tabs when I did my remote turn-on wiring tap, so I had to buy the whole set.

      In any case, simple procedure, pull out cupholder, transfer over power adapter, snap back in place.

      Part number is 1284525.





      While I was doing my shopping at FCPEuro, figured I'd get myself over the free shipping limit, so I picked up the Polestar badge kit for the correct era... the bigger square badge, not the newer angled badge.

      The dealer gave me the newer kit when they did the Polestar software, and while I ran with it for a while, I really wanted the square.



      Funny thing is now I have an extra angled badge and need to figure out something to do with it.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    9. #77
      Nice! I need to replace that cup holder setup in my own car. I'm missing a few of the tabs and things are getting pretty wobbly with my morning coffee. Thanks for the updates! Even though I don't comment much I've been watching and enjoying this thread immensely. Keep up the good work.
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    10. #78
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      Nice! I need to replace that cup holder setup in my own car. I'm missing a few of the tabs and things are getting pretty wobbly with my morning coffee. Thanks for the updates! Even though I don't comment much I've been watching and enjoying this thread immensely. Keep up the good work.
      Thanks! It's enjoying for me as well to be working on the car... going to be running out of things to do soon... well before the budget gets out of hand that is. Not sure I want to do down the do88/turboback exhaust route at this point. We'll see.

      If you just need the tab gasket for the cupholder and not the whole assembly, that part is 1284528.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    11. #79
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      I've picked up a TFT cluster and have been running it in the car for about 5 days now. Very nice setup and clear display. Followed a few simple steps from some helpful people on here to get most of the functions to work. The only two portions that don't work are the Power and the Eco "gauges."

      There were a few people who've asked about parts of the install, so I'll put together a DIY thread again for this to help. All the necessary information was already here on the forum, but it took a lot of searching and a very helpful guy to get all the pieces together, so I'll put it all in one place.



      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    12. #80
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Forgot to mention, I made an install thread for the TFT, to which many others have also provided input on their install as well, here:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-2011-2013-S60
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    13. #81
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      While opening up my DIM to figure out a way to disable the TPMS light or cover it up, I managed to crack the plastic cover. Stupid mistake, but gave me a reason to grab a new scratch-free cover. The part for the TFT DIM is 31376800, and cost ~$60 from Tasca. It was a really simple swap, and also came with the strips of tape to seal the seams.

      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    14. #82
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      Since I was already going to be reinstalling the DIM again (for the fifth...sixth time?), I figured that I'd plan on replacing the defective steering trim bezel on my 2012 (I believe it affected only 2011-2012 cars), which had flaking metallization across both the top edge and a small amount on the bottom. I hadn't cut myself on it yet, but it was getting annoying having to keep note of the sharp points on my drive.

      That part was 31390459, ~$40 on Tasca.



      Installation was "simple" as in simple instructions, not so simple execution. I used the installation instructions for steering wheels from the Volvo accessories website, such as this one for the heated steering wheel.

      http://accessories.volvocars.com/en-...-467652-2/2016

      You'll follow steps 13-29 in the instructions.

      I took out the negative battery cable and waited a few minutes to ensure all the systems were drained. Working around an airbag is a bit shaky, but there are no worries.

      The front cover is easy to take off, but that flexible rubber gasket that connects the tray under the DIM to the steering column cover takes a bit of effort. You really need to have those plastic trim tools handy, especially one with a stepped side like the one on the left in the photo below. If I could go back in time to my younger self, I'd take that one tool back. It would have made so many audio and interior installs that much more easier with no fear of scratches or mess.



      Those eight clips in step 15 on that rubber trim piece are TIGHT. You will need to find a way to get the one of the sides worked up and then work on each clip in order to get it loosened. I found it easier to do Step 16 and get under that cover to work those clips from Step 15.



      Once the three parts are clear, you have more room to work with your screwdrivers. Steps 17-24 are NOT fun. It is frustrating. The instructions give you a clear idea of what you need to do, but it still took me the better part of 20-30 minutes to finally loosen both sides of the airbag. I had worked so hard fidgeting with those stupid clips, that I had fogged the windows up in the car, and it was -6 C outside.



      You can see the extent of the flaking of the coating in this picture of the airbag connectors.



      I had never cut my hand on the wheel before, but managed to splice my middle finger on the coating... good riddance you piece of junk.



      Once the airbag is out, it's easy to see the clips you need to push on to remove the airbag in the first place. Not that it helps much after I took it out, but it should give you an idea what you're pushing on if you decide to do this as well. The metal prongs on the wheel assembly hold the airbag in place with those L-shaped metal rods on the airbag.





      With that, the last thing to do is remove the old trim. The trim is in dense foam and takes a lot of force to remove. I used my pry tools to work it from the top to the bottom.



      Once that's out it's a simple reinstall in the reverse direction.

      Glad to have that non-defective trim in place and not having to worry about cuts in the future.

      Last edited by p.rico; 12-28-2017 at 10:48 PM.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    15. #83
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      Quote Originally Posted by p.rico View Post
      Got a box full of SMD LED's this weekend.

      The whole list of replacements included:

      (2x) 3710-CWHP3-V2: 3710 LED Bulb - 3 SMD LED Festoon - 38mm - Cool White
      • Both license plate bulbs

      (1x) 3710-CWHP6-V2: 3710 LED Bulb - 6 SMD LED Festoon - 38mm - Cool White
      • Trunk bulb

      (10x) 194-CWHP5: 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Tower - Miniature Wedge Retrofit - Cool White
      • 4 map lights
      • 2 dome lights
      • 2 puddle lights
      • 2 footwell bulbs

      (1x) 4210-CWHP6-V2: 6451 LED Bulb - 6 SMD LED Festoon - 42mm - Cool White
      • Glove box light


      Also, for the map and dome lights, you need these adapters:

      (6x) T3.25S-TW: 168/194/921 (T3-1/4) Twist Lock Wedge Base Socket - T3.25 Socket

      Did all the installs this weekend, pretty mindless if you know what you're doing.

      The puddle lights took the longest, not because they were difficult, but because one of puddle light clips was being stubborn. One light took me 2-3 minutes, while the other one took me 15 minutes... I had to resort to getting help from my dad, who pushed the clip in with the screwdriver, while I pried from the bottom of the puddle light with a plastic pry tool.

      For the footwells, I found it easier to unclip the light carriage from the dash panel for install. Again, not hard. The inside map+dome lights are unreal... I almost feel like they're too much in the pitch dark of the morning when I enter the car.

      How harsh are these? They look like they brighten up the car nicely, especially compared to the stock bulbs. I just don't want it to be a case where glancing up is blinding, especially since my son's see sits high in the middle.

      Are the interior dome and map lights just pried/popped off? Just get a plastic tool and pry from the edge?
      2013 S60 T6 R-Design Rebel Blue: Climate + BLIS - 19" Polestar Wheels, IPD F&R End Links, IPD Rear Sway Bar, Powerflex "Race" Torque Rod Insert, Elevate/KPAX Exhaust, K&N Filter - What I've Done


    16. #84
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      I would honestly halve the luminosity of the interior bulbs. With all six on when you open the door, it is quite bright.

      They are also 6000k, you can bring the warmth up for your preference.

      If you search the options on superbrightleds.com for 194's, you'll have a few to choose from.

      Just grab one end and pull on both the domes to remove them, no pry tools needed. You will have debris fall on you, so be prepared for that.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    17. #85
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      Quote Originally Posted by p.rico View Post
      I would honestly halve the luminosity of the interior bulbs. With all six on when you open the door, it is quite bright.

      They are also 6000k, you can bring the warmth up for your preference.

      If you search the options on superbrightleds.com for 194's, you'll have a few to choose from.

      Just grab one end and pull on both the domes to remove them, no pry tools needed. You will have debris fall on you, so be prepared for that.
      Thanks, I will poke around a bit on the site. I saw that the interior lights have a neutral tone that I liked a bit better, bit I would probably want to match all of the lights to those, except maybe the puddle and licence plate lights. Or I could go for crazy ultraviolet ones.....
      2013 S60 T6 R-Design Rebel Blue: Climate + BLIS - 19" Polestar Wheels, IPD F&R End Links, IPD Rear Sway Bar, Powerflex "Race" Torque Rod Insert, Elevate/KPAX Exhaust, K&N Filter - What I've Done


    18. #86
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      UV would be... interesting. I'd do it just for the giggles. I ran red dome LED's in my WRX, because WRX. It was always fun to run them while driving, gave the car a nice red glow all around, and matched my red LED footwells and the red gauges.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    19. #87
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      Have been looking for the OEM Sleipner wheels, because the Njords, while being a fine wheel, just weren't doing it for me. The large car makes the 17" wheels look small.

      I finally found a great set in very good condition on Craigslist here in Delaware. Came with some decent ExtremeContact DW's on them.



      What's so interesting is how much 1" of diameter really makes visually compared the smaller wheel. Just on calculation the wheel area from a 17" to 18" wheel is increased by 12.11%, but when seen together it's actually quite interesting how that visually manifests itself.



      Will have to wait until March to get them on, but looking forward to them!
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

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      Good write up regrading the amp replacement, I would have thought the sound deadening would have been enough? I cant imagine needing a better sound system in my car, its by far the best sounding Ive had in a car yet, even better than my 2008 Subaru Liberty (Legacy) with the McIntosh! Mine juts needs some sound deadening like yours to get rid of the squeaks and creaks. I have one tip for you, install a 35Hz high pass filter before the subs, makes the bass tighter and punchier.
      2013 S60 T6 R-Design - Rebel Blue - Polestar Tune - Polestar Performance Chassis - Polestar Performance Cat Back Exhaust
      2014 XC90 3.2 R-Design - Black Saphire

    21. #89
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      Quote Originally Posted by p.rico View Post
      UV would be... interesting. I'd do it just for the giggles. I ran red dome LED's in my WRX, because WRX. It was always fun to run them while driving, gave the car a nice red glow all around, and matched my red LED footwells and the red gauges.
      Haha, when I decide to actually do the replacement I may order a couple to run as a joke and then swap them with the neutral tone. I was surprised to see them on there
      2013 S60 T6 R-Design Rebel Blue: Climate + BLIS - 19" Polestar Wheels, IPD F&R End Links, IPD Rear Sway Bar, Powerflex "Race" Torque Rod Insert, Elevate/KPAX Exhaust, K&N Filter - What I've Done


    22. #90
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      Quote Originally Posted by thezoneS60 View Post
      Good write up regrading the amp replacement, I would have thought the sound deadening would have been enough? I cant imagine needing a better sound system in my car, its by far the best sounding Ive had in a car yet, even better than my 2008 Subaru Liberty (Legacy) with the McIntosh! Mine juts needs some sound deadening like yours to get rid of the squeaks and creaks. I have one tip for you, install a 35Hz high pass filter before the subs, makes the bass tighter and punchier.
      It's funny you bring the bass up, since I just swapped out the subwoofer and was going to post it here.

      I agree on the SQ part for the rest of the system. It does sound really great, once it's tuned a bit and the low end is pulled away from the front components to the subwoofer. Very nice clarity with the three-way setup. Also turning off the volume offset got rid of the distortion at speed.

      I took out the Alpine bandpass in favor of my old JL 8" MicroSub. I initially favored the Alpine due to the bump in the 40-50 Hz range of the bandpass box, but it was hard to get everything else consistent. The MicroSub needed more gain, but I was able to blend it in way better than with the Alpine. Currently have it set with a 100 Hz low-pass and it sounds real nice where it is. It is a much more musical sub than the Alpine, I've definitely heard much more discreteness to bass notes, while the Alpine in the same passages was a bit muddier.



      I've toyed with getting a good bass processor, so I'll keep thinking about that, but for now, we're pretty good.

      The only thing I do want to do is move that bass remote closer to me...one of these days I'll pull some wiring up and get it somewhere more readily accessible. I've found that I would like to toy with it more between certain music genres.
      Last edited by p.rico; 01-27-2018 at 07:32 PM.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
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    23. #91
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      Even a passive 35Hz high pass filter is worth chucking in the bass line. There is a lot of stuff going on below 35Hz that we don't need in our cars and that silently ruins the listening experience.
      2013 S60 T6 R-Design - Rebel Blue - Polestar Tune - Polestar Performance Chassis - Polestar Performance Cat Back Exhaust
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    24. #92
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      Quote Originally Posted by thezoneS60 View Post
      Even a passive 35Hz high pass filter is worth chucking in the bass line. There is a lot of stuff going on below 35Hz that we don't need in our cars and that silently ruins the listening experience.
      I'm looking into the Harrison FMOD inline passive crossovers... I see there are mixed reviews though (with people saying it attenuated above their rated frequencies...). I am debating on trying the 30 Hz High Pass (12 dB slope) https://www.parts-express.com/harris...s-rca--266-248 or getting the HP-SUB PMOD with would give me a 20, 25, 30, 35 Hz selectable option (with the same 12 dB slope). Any thoughts? My amp has a 10kohm input impedance.

      EDIT: Actually found load shift data on the Hlabs website.

      20hz black bands (25hz @ 10K / 17hz @ 47K)
      30hz 2 black bands (37hz @ 10K / 26hz @ 47K)

      Looks like their 20 would give me a 25 Hz cut off and 30 would give me 37 Hz. Wonder if 37 Hz knee and 12 dB slope would be too high?
      Last edited by p.rico; 02-01-2018 at 07:43 AM.
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      37Hz/12db is fine. Funny how precious we are at letting go of numbers! Even 40hz would be fine in a car. I have a 3-way sub set up in my HT (3 way rack mount x/over feeding 3 subs in mono) and an active 35Hz hp filter preceding that and the bottom end is window shaking.

      Good link I might get me some!
      2013 S60 T6 R-Design - Rebel Blue - Polestar Tune - Polestar Performance Chassis - Polestar Performance Cat Back Exhaust
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    26. #94
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      I bought the 30 Hz high pass, so we'll see how it behaves in a week.

      I need to also find a 80 or 90 Hz high pass that I can use on signal level from the outboard side of the amp to the front doors. Even with the 60 Hz EQ slider down, there is still too much low end going to the front midwoofers.
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    27. #95
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      Quote Originally Posted by p.rico View Post
      Have been looking for the OEM Sleipner wheels, because the Njords, while being a fine wheel, just weren't doing it for me. The large car makes the 17" wheels look small.

      I finally found a great set in very good condition on Craigslist here in Delaware. Came with some decent ExtremeContact DW's on them.



      What's so interesting is how much 1" of diameter really makes visually compared the smaller wheel. Just on calculation the wheel area from a 17" to 18" wheel is increased by 12.11%, but when seen together it's actually quite interesting how that visually manifests itself.



      Will have to wait until March to get them on, but looking forward to them!
      Yes, will be a big improvement!
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    28. #96
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      Quote Originally Posted by p.rico View Post
      Got the chance to do a quick 0-60 MPH for a comparison before and after the Polestar tune. All of these runs were done on the exact same spot and captured with OBDII/Dashcommand. The best I obtained previously was a 5.66 s (most other runs were between 5.7-5.8 s). My first try after the tune yielded a 5.21 s. Not bad for a 3800 lb lump w/ a slushbox.

      Wow. Is there any part of this car you haven’t taken apart!! Awesome thread of info.

      Do you have a link to dash command device your using? How accurate is it?


      2016 S60 T5 R-Design Drive-E / Polestar Optimized / ERST Exhaust and Intake / IPD Rear Anti Sway / DO88 FMIC / KW V3 Coilovers
      2016 S60 T5 R-Design Drive-E / Polestar Optimized / ERST Exhaust and Intake / IPD Rear Anti Sway / DO88 FMIC / KW V3 Coilovers

    29. #97
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      Quote Originally Posted by helloelectro View Post
      Wow. Is there any part of this car you haven’t taken apart!! Awesome thread of info.

      Do you have a link to dash command device your using? How accurate is it?


      2016 S60 T5 R-Design Drive-E / Polestar Optimized / ERST Exhaust and Intake / IPD Rear Anti Sway / DO88 FMIC / KW V3 Coilovers
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    30. #98
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      Quote Originally Posted by helloelectro View Post
      Wow. Is there any part of this car you haven’t taken apart!! Awesome thread of info.

      Do you have a link to dash command device your using? How accurate is it?


      2016 S60 T5 R-Design Drive-E / Polestar Optimized / ERST Exhaust and Intake / IPD Rear Anti Sway / DO88 FMIC / KW V3 Coilovers
      If I had a garage instead of working on the street, the car would probably always be in pieces.

      This is the adapter I use. I've had it for several years, and seems to grab nearly all parameters from the Volvo as well. There is a different version (the MX) that apparently also supports MS-CAN. However, I haven't figured out what exactly there is beyond the PID's I get in DashCommand or Torque that I'm missing from not having that version.

      http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/

      DashCommand is here.

      http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/dashcommand/

      I also use Torque Pro regularly as well.

      https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...dsLnRvcnF1ZSJd

      Torque Pro is more configurable on the GUI, while the natural Dashboard of DashCommand is already set up pretty well.

      The performance data from DashCommand seems to be pretty consistent. It takes the readings from the vehicle, so if your car is correct, then the speedo and those times are also correct. I've tried several times in the past few weeks during the cold temperatures, and have been still hitting 5.2's. I did get a 5.09 s run a while back in the thread, but haven't been able to match that one since. Must have just gotten lucky.
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    31. #99
      Junior Member Solaris17's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by p.rico View Post
      Since I was already going to be reinstalling the DIM again (for the fifth...sixth time?), I figured that I'd plan on replacing the defective steering trim bezel on my 2012 (I believe it affected only 2011-2012 cars), which had flaking metallization across both the top edge and a small amount on the bottom. I hadn't cut myself on it yet, but it was getting annoying having to keep note of the sharp points on my drive.

      That part was 31390459, ~$40 on Tasca.
      Thank you!!!

    32. #100
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      Quote Originally Posted by Solaris17 View Post
      Thank you!!!
      No problem!
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    33. #101
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      She looks beautiful. Where did you get the spoiler? It adds a great look to the back

    34. #102
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      Alright, so I received the Harrison Labs FMOD in and gave them a whirl. I specifically bought the 30 Hz High Pass filter. They all have a 12 dB/octave roll off.



      I put them inline into my Kenwood amp, which has a 10 kohm input impedance. The calculations on HLabs' website indicated it would raise the knee from 30 to 37 Hz.

      However, I audibly observed a massive attenuation across the board with these things in place, so I decided to run a complete test to confirm what was occurring. I compiled some frequency numbers with the passive filter installed and without the filter, and with two different subwoofer boxes: 1) a JL MicroSub 8" and 2) a JL 10" in a small sealed enclosure. The MicroSub has been my daily driver for a while, but I had been playing with the 10" sealed JL sub the past week as I was trying to ascertain which hit better lower in the car.

      I ran my tests from 20-100 in 10 Hz increments, and all at the same input volume in the car and gain on my bass remote. My Kenwood is set for a 100 Hz low pass cut off. I used AudioTools Pro and my Dayton iMM-6 calibrated omnidirectional microphone, with the phone attached to the dash in the same spot for all tests. This is the same setup I've used prior in this thread when I ran some audio tests (pictures at the beginning of this thread).

      Here's the compiled graph.



      The tests confirmed what I heard; the gain was attenuated across almost the entire frequency band, as much as 10-13 dB in the parts that count! Terrible.

      The filter began attenuating much higher than it should have too, I saw larger dB drop from 50 to 40 Hz with the filter in place than without.

      I'm going to return these, as they're not doing what I expected them to do.

      A nice observation from this study, however, was how much better the SPL was with the 8" MicroSub vs. the 10" from 30-50 Hz. It extended a bit farther on the top end as well (80 Hz+). I don't know the reason for the large dip in the JL 10" at 40 Hz... but I ran the tone a few times and it was the same.
      Last edited by p.rico; 02-09-2018 at 11:39 AM.
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    35. #103
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      That's incredibly disappointing! Make sure you get a refund. Obviously an active high pass filter would be more preferable but way more difficult to implement. I've always heard that 8" is better than 10" for punchy bass. The Mcintosh system in the subarus has an 8".
      2013 S60 T6 R-Design - Rebel Blue - Polestar Tune - Polestar Performance Chassis - Polestar Performance Cat Back Exhaust
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    36. #104
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      Quote Originally Posted by Solaris17 View Post
      She looks beautiful. Where did you get the spoiler? It adds a great look to the back
      Thanks! I bought it from Tasca. Just search in the exterior accessories of any Volvo parts catalog for your MY and they'll be there. They come painted from the factory and the install was a 10 min job. It's posted earlier in the thread.

      You might find a better price for your color if you take the part number into Google. Various colors can be all over the map in prices from the different online Volvo parts stores. This also applies with shipping costs too. I ended up paying about ~$300 shipped.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
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    37. #105
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      Quote Originally Posted by thezoneS60 View Post
      That's incredibly disappointing! Make sure you get a refund. Obviously an active high pass filter would be more preferable but way more difficult to implement. I've always heard that 8" is better than 10" for punchy bass. The Mcintosh system in the subarus has an 8".
      They were bought on Amazon so free return and full refund.

      All things being equal, I would imagine the JL MicroSub 10" is superior to the 8" version. But in my case I think it's an example of ported being more effective than sealed at that frequency.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
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