Anyone replace their own brake pads yet?

[hfwilkesjr]

Manufacturers are allowed to have proprietary equipment as long as they make them available, which Volvo does.

As a customer of Volvo, I have no desire to have Volvo’s proprietary information. What I and I believe a number of other customers have a problem with is the inability to do minor maintenance on OUR own property. They allow us to have a service position for the windshield wipers, the same should be done for minor maintenance items like brake jobs, oil changes and accessory belts (if necessary). And thank you for confirming the ability to do the rear brake job without VIDA, I hope sharing that information doesn’t get you in any trouble.

[brett_xc90]

Also i applied grease to metal touch points but not to the back of the pads, they already have some backing and no factory grease was there.

Yep! I only applied grease to the back o the front pads (which weren’t OEM)...



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[Tech]

As indicated, you can change them without VIDA. There is no position sensor for the parking brake motors.

Manufacturers are allowed to have proprietary equipment as long as they make them available, which Volvo does.

are you referring to all PBMs or just SPAs because I know I've done it on a P3 manually and the motor just kept opening and closing after install. Finally had to hook it up to VIDA and put it in service mode then take it out. I've never taken the chance ever since.


and you are right that manufacturers can have proprietary systems if they make it available, but the barriers to entry are too high for DIYs.

I'm referring to SPA only. I've had to do it that way once when VIDA was down.

I have not tried a P3 without VIDA.

Manufacturers are allowed to have proprietary equipment as long as they make them available, which Volvo does.

As a customer of Volvo, I have no desire to have Volvo’s proprietary information. What I and I believe a number of other customers have a problem with is the inability to do minor maintenance on OUR own property. They allow us to have a service position for the windshield wipers, the same should be done for minor maintenance items like brake jobs, oil changes and accessory belts (if necessary). And thank you for confirming the ability to do the rear brake job without VIDA, I hope sharing that information doesn’t get you in any trouble.

Nothing is stopping you from doing your own oil changes, belts or anything else. VIDA is available to anyone. Sure, there is a price. But it is available.

[inteller]

I'm referring to SPA only. I've had to do it that way once when VIDA was down.

yeah part two of why Volvo needs an alternative offline tool. Global work stoppage on certain jobs when VIDA is down. No excuse. I can't even order parts sometimes when VIDA is down.

[hfwilkesjr]

Nothing is stopping you from doing your own oil changes, belts or anything else. VIDA is available to anyone. Sure, there is a price. But it is available.

Sounds like we’re being taken advantage of. If we choose to work on our vehicles, we’re charged a penalty fee for not taking it to Volvo. As previously stated, we’ve paid for the vehicles and should be able to work on them without extra hooks into our wallets.

[Tech]

Nothing is stopping you from doing your own oil changes, belts or anything else. VIDA is available to anyone. Sure, there is a price. But it is available.

Sounds like we’re being taken advantage of. If we choose to work on our vehicles, we’re charged a penalty fee for not taking it to Volvo. As previously stated, we’ve paid for the vehicles and should be able to work on them without extra hooks into our wallets.

What is stopping you from working on your own vehicle? There are many things VIDA is not needed for. There aren't any minor maintenance items that require VIDA.

[hfwilkesjr]

What is stopping you from working on your own vehicle? There are many things VIDA is not needed for. There aren't any minor maintenance items that require VIDA.

Until recently, the rear brake job.

[shadowlord]

To quickly unwind the rears, grab 2 12+ft wires connect them to battery terminals.

1. remove the rear caliper
2. Unplug the IPB connector
3. touch (connect the wires to motor leads)
4 . if it spins the wrong way just switch connect to opposite terminals

This will unwind them. Once you are close to fully unwinded just stop. Thats all.

[Iamhives]

Thanks for the tip on using 12V to unwind the rear brake motor. I will be doing this at some point in the future. When reinstalling do you have to wind them back in again or is that what the car does when you turn the parking brake on and off three times?

[comrade]

i'd use a separate battery if you will go this way..you dont want to short circuit your car one..also if you do that, will you be able to see the cylinder actually retract?

[Zahra]

Take a look at this tutorial (not for SPA, but the EPB motor is very similar, if not the same):
http://www.volvohowto.com/how-to-rep...0-or-v60-2011/
The 4th comment mentions that a 9V battery will unwind the park brake.
That's probably a lot safer and easier than using a/the 12V car battery.

[shadowlord]

Take a look at this tutorial (not for SPA, but the EPB motor is very similar, if not the same):
http://www.volvohowto.com/how-to-rep...0-or-v60-2011/
The 4th comment mentions that a 9V battery will unwind the park brake.
That's probably a lot safer and easier than using a/the 12V car battery.

Yes I agree, Probably safer with 9V battery. Also, when putting it back together you dont need to do it. It will go back to optimal position once you apply brakes.
And when using this method you will see the cylinder retract quickly.

[tanXC90]

my dealer told me i have another 2K or less to go on rears, i have 32K on car now. Was quoted $$475 - will be doing this myself..
So I need 5 and 7mm HEX? Did you use any brake/caliper grease? My Mercedes brake pads came with it, volvo OEM pads didnt - got them from volvoparts store for $70 shipped

The dealer quoted $675 + tax for rear brake pads only..

[dbicker79]

Dealer quoted me $378 for rear pads so I went ahead and let them do it. It was right at the edge of my pain tolerance since pads alone are almost $200. My mechanic tried to download new software to allow him to do the rears but it still didn't work for him.

[onyxT6]

Had my rear breaks replaced 2 days ago from the dealer for $260. AlanBayer Volvo Syracuse NY. Don't know why they asked you for $675+

[tanXC90]

Had my rear breaks replaced 2 days ago from the dealer for $260. AlanBayer Volvo Syracuse NY. Don't know why they asked you for $675+

I wish the dealer down here in the city is honest as yours. I might do it myself. Looks like it isn’t too bad. Or I will just take it to other shops.

[Tech]

Had my rear breaks replaced 2 days ago from the dealer for $260. AlanBayer Volvo Syracuse NY. Don't know why they asked you for $675+

I wish the dealer down here in the city is honest as yours. I might do it myself. Looks like it isn’t too bad. Or I will just take it to other shops.

Make sure they didn't price pads and rotors. $675 would be a normal price for pads and rotors.

If it's $675 for just pads, call them out for overcharging.

[tanXC90]

Make sure they didn't price pads and rotors. $675 would be a normal price for pads and rotors.

If it's $675 for just pads, call them out for overcharging.

It’s over a thousand with rotors. It’s good that there are few dealers near NYC area. I will definitely call around.

Not sure anyone has taken the car to non dealer shops for maintenance. If anyone can recommend a shop that would be great.

[Tech]

They are overcharging. Ask for the price for the part. Ask their labor rate. It's one hour labor.

[tanXC90]

Following this post, I changed the rear brake pads using a 9V battery instead of removing the EPB. Here's what I did:

1. Before unscrew the caliper, I removed the EPB electronic connector by pulling the yellow part straight up as in the picture. Since the pins inside the connector are facing toward the car and it's impossible to stick my head in there to see them, I used two small alligator clips to connect the pins as in the picture so I can see. Then I used a small mirror to make sure the alligator clips are not connected inside.

IMG_6365 - Copy.jpg

IMG_6366 - Copy.jpg

2. Connected the 9V battery's positive terminal to the upper pin and negative to the lower pin. The motor will unwind for about 10-15 seconds and then stop.

IMG_6368 - Copy.jpg

3. Take off the caliper and push the piston inside and replaced the pads. The caliper screw is Torx 45.

The first wheel took me about 40 minutes, and the second wheel took about 15 minutes. Thanks everyone for the previous posts!

[LowlyOilBurner]

I did rear pads on my 2016 XC90 twice. I did not rewind the motors. Just ran the caliper piston back into the caliper, installed the pads and caliper. Repeated for the other side.

[mookiwan]

Following this post, I changed the rear brake pads using a 9V battery instead of removing the EPB. Here's what I did:

1. Before unscrew the caliper, I removed the EPB electronic connector by pulling the yellow part straight up as in the picture. Since the pins inside the connector are facing toward the car and it's impossible to stick my head in there to see them, I used two small alligator clips to connect the pins as in the picture so I can see. Then I used a small mirror to make sure the alligator clips are not connected inside.

IMG_6365 - Copy.jpg

IMG_6366 - Copy.jpg

2. Connected the 9V battery's positive terminal to the upper pin and negative to the lower pin. The motor will unwind for about 10-15 seconds and then stop.

IMG_6368 - Copy.jpg

3. Take off the caliper and push the piston inside and replaced the pads. The caliper screw is Torx 45.

The first wheel took me about 40 minutes, and the second wheel took about 15 minutes. Thanks everyone for the previous posts!

Wonder if you can get the part number for the other end of that connector, then wire up a little switch with a 9v battery connector. Then just keep it in your tool box.


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[tonyc]

Today I found out (one of our local) dealership advises pad change at 3mm wear. I'm more of a 1mm wear kinda guy so... Guess I'll keep driving. OE pads have dropped down to < $100 on these things. I mean that's still a gd travesty, but at least my front brakes aren't squeaking and fcpeuro has a "lifetime" warranty on this. The CRAZY thing about having to change pads at 20K mi though, is really this: _IF_ I'd gone in and complained about the very minor squeak, they would've replaced the front pads for free and gotten paid by Volvo USA.

[tonyc]

UGH, I didn't have an 11mm hex and also didn't have a t55 torx bit, brake job delayed. GDamnit Volvo, why not use a 10/12 hex like everyone else?

[theclutch]

Following this post, I changed the rear brake pads using a 9V battery instead of removing the EPB. Here's what I did:

1. Before unscrew the caliper, I removed the EPB electronic connector by pulling the yellow part straight up as in the picture. Since the pins inside the connector are facing toward the car and it's impossible to stick my head in there to see them, I used two small alligator clips to connect the pins as in the picture so I can see. Then I used a small mirror to make sure the alligator clips are not connected inside.

IMG_6365 - Copy.jpg

IMG_6366 - Copy.jpg

2. Connected the 9V battery's positive terminal to the upper pin and negative to the lower pin. The motor will unwind for about 10-15 seconds and then stop.

IMG_6368 - Copy.jpg

3. Take off the caliper and push the piston inside and replaced the pads. The caliper screw is Torx 45.

The first wheel took me about 40 minutes, and the second wheel took about 15 minutes. Thanks everyone for the previous posts!

CLEVER... thank you! Of course, I wish I saw this before I had already done the rear brakes. It was still easy nonetheless...

[theclutch]

I just changed my front brake pads to ceramics for a much less dusty operation. Note that the passenger brake pads wore out much quicker than the driver's side. Further, the inboard passenger side was probably 1 mm left. Did I get my money's worth on this? Enjoy the pic!

[seawolf]

So are the four bolts to be removed (2 for the parking brake motor and 2 for the caliper) torx or hex?

[stick_shift]

So are the four bolts to be removed (2 for the parking brake motor and 2 for the caliper) torx or hex?

It's shown in the video
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...Video-tutorial

[seawolf]

It's shown in the video
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...Video-tutorial

I saw that video and others as well. The bolts have been mentioned as torx by some and hex by others.

The video above mentioned 5/16 mm allen bit??? Isn't mm in whole numbers and not fractions? The intro (0:55 into video) mention a 7mm bit but when it comes time to taking the bolts off (4:40 into video), he mentioned 9mm.

Post #59 in this thread mention an 11mm and t55 torx?

Post #6 and 33 in this thread mention 7mm and a 4.5 to 5 mm.

I just ordered a set of sockets from Home Depot (H3DBS37PC). Hopefully it will contain everything needed.

[munsonbw]

Take a look at this tutorial (not for SPA, but the EPB motor is very similar, if not the same):
http://www.volvohowto.com/how-to-rep...0-or-v60-2011/
The 4th comment mentions that a 9V battery will unwind the park brake.
That's probably a lot safer and easier than using a/the 12V car battery.

Resurrecting an old thread here.

I did this on my wife's 2015 XC70 and it worked fine. However, watching a youtube tutorial someone in the comments stated that disconnecting the EPB plug will cause the computer to error out and not allow the use of autopilot/pilot assist. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I can just pull the motors and wind them out, but the 12v method is pretty easy and fast.

Thanks
ben

[Midnight]

Thank you all for all the tutorials, pointers and tricks to do the job. I just did it today. Used the 9v battery method to unwind epb motor. No problem whatsoever. Had no error (I made sure auto parking brake was unchecked in setting, and released parking brake before starting, as suggested).

Very easy. Didn't open the brake fluid reservoir as in one of the video. Take off wheel, unwind EPB, remove caliper (mine was a torx 45), clean, apply lube, install pads, replace caliper, start car and pump brakes and engage parking brake a coupe time and done ! &#x1f642;

[brett_xc90]

My 2 cents worth after replacing two sets of rears and one set of front pads...

Go OEM. They're softer than the one's I bought for the front and OEM seem to stop better.

I'll be putting up with quicker wear and more dust for better stop from now on.

[Illini-SVT]

My 2 cents worth after replacing two sets of rears and one set of front pads...

Go OEM. They're softer than the one's I bought for the front and OEM seem to stop better.

I'll be putting up with quicker wear and more dust for better stop from now on.

Which other pads have you tried, and didn't work as well? Powerstop offers their Z17 ceramic line and Akebono also offers ceramics I was thinking of trying.

[theclutch]

Which other pads have you tried, and didn't work as well? Powerstop offers their Z17 ceramic line and Akebono also offers ceramics I was thinking of trying.

Ceramics are the way to go. While they will not have that "initial bite", they can still get into ABS just as well. You will just need to push harder on the brakes. I've installed ceramics in all of my cars since I can't stand the brake dust...

[Illini-SVT]

Is anyone actually turning their rotors or just buying new ones? At 25k miles, mine have about a 1mm cut from the original pads. Rockauto has new rotors running about $25-50 each. I presume they are just over-the-hub versions with no bearings - much easier to swap out.