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SPA XC90 DIY Oil Change with pics

150K views 299 replies 81 participants last post by  Garfunkgrin 
#1 · (Edited)
SPA XC90 DIY Oil Change with pics, UOA

I did an oil change on our 2018 XC90 at 5k miles, these steps and pics should apply for any 2016/2017/2018/2019 vehicle.
[This thread is for those interested in doing the oil change, not intended to start a holy war. Head over to BITOG for that :D]

See Post 36 for UOA! (Used Oil Analysis)

Materials:

Filter
(Comes with new crush washer, two rubber o-rings for filter housing and one o-ring on filter itself)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W4DSCFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wrench
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0120RYAS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oil (Available from Walmart at a very good price and occasionally goes on sale at Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKJQS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tools:
  • 17mm hex wrench
  • T30 Torx driver (T27 also fits)
  • T40 Torx driver or 6mm Allen

Volvo Oil Recommendation:

NOTE: Volvo now specifies 0W-20 for their SPA vehicles regardless of what is shown in the owner's manual. Oil must meet Volvo spec RBS0-2AE.



Steps:
  • Loosen oil cap under the hood
  • Remove the skid plate (10 T30 Torx screws, plus two spring loaded inserts; T27 also fits)
  • Remove the oil drain plug (17mm hex bolt)
  • Drain oil into suitable container
  • Replace the drain bolt with new crush washer, tighten slightly past 'snug'
  • Optionally remove the T40/6mm bolt from bottom of filter housing (to drain initial oil in filter) [Either T40 Torx or 6mm Allen wrench will fit]
  • Remove the filter housing with the Volvo oil wrench
  • Replace the filter within the housing
  • Replace the large o-ring on the housing
  • Replace the small o-ring on the T40/Allen bolt (bottom of filter housing) [If you removed the bolt]
  • Apply oil to all o-rings!
  • Replace the T40/6mm bolt [if you removed it]
  • Screw in the filter & housing back into engine, I had to use the wrench again. Do not tighten very much! Let the o-ring do the work.
  • Replace skid plate
  • Fill engine with 6.2qt of specified oil [Note: 2016-2017 is 6.2qt; 2018 and newer are 5.9 qt]

Service light reset:


Volvo oil filter wrench


Removing T30 screw, holding the skid plate


Drain bolt location, middle of pic


Removing oil drain bolt


Oil draining
(I recycled it, no whales or dolphins died...)


The oil filter housing


Removing the bolt from oil filter housing, T40 Torx or 6mm Allen will work


Removing the oil filter housing


Old oil filter within housing


Oil filter


Oil filter components


T40 Torx driver, supposedly it's actually a 6mm Allen bolt


Filter bottom bolt and o-ring


Location of large o-ring on filter housing


New filter installed in housing


Drain bolt with new crush washer installed


Installing filter housing



All done!
 
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1 20
#4 ·
Dark - but I know that doesn't necessarily mean anything.

I'm going to get a used oil analysis (normally I never do this since I use a 5k OCI, but I'm curious to know how the car is breaking in.)
 
#14 ·
Even though I will let Volvo change my oil, it was very interesting seeing how it is done. Nice pictures and thanks for taking the time to show us the procedure.
 
#24 ·
Good write-up, but I'm lazy - so...
My only question is "Why." [emoji3]
Well for me, having a lift helps.

I enjoy working on my own cars. It gives me peace of mind that I did the extra work. By no means am I a dealer mechanic though.

I'm an engineer, so this kind of stuff interests me ?

Sent from my iPhone X using Tapatalk
 
#29 ·
The idea is to lift the front end of car to let more oil drain out, as the drain plug is at rear of oil pan. My driveway is a small slope and I can park the car at top of slope so it tilts up and do the oil change if I am lazy.

Fusion · Red · T8 · XC60
 
#30 ·
stick_shift - thanks for doing this!! While I do not change the oil/filter on our Volvos (always assumed it was more difficult than other cars) I do change the oil on my nicees' Hondas and Hyundais. This proves that the cartridge filter set up, while very different, is really not that more involved than the traditional set up. Our 12 XC60 is due for an oil change next month so I may give it a try. There is nothing more satisfying than an quick and easy DIY project.
 
#34 ·
oil changes are MUCH easier with a lift. But rhino ramps are a good alternative

Sent from my iPhone X using Tapatalk
 
#35 · (Edited)
Fantastic post. +1 and Thank you.

I too, am 'that way inclined' to do my own car maintenance. And I too, have nice soft hands from IT work [emoji6]
This post led me on a day of discovery...some may say wasted [emoji6]...because it seriously has been a whole Sunday: 8am to 7pm!...I could have mowed the lawns, watched a movie, gone for a walk, talked with my family.... I guess! Hmmm.

I caught out the local dealership: they hadn't replaced the engine oil. I found grains of sand on the filler cap housing and o-ring after a service (long story how that got there....the short version is: demonstrator model that went for an adventure on a beach in Queensland....a serious adventure by all accounts....sand EVERYWHERE!) and so I figured that the cap hadn't been taken off at it's service, thus the oil not changed. No service technician in their right mind would replace that without cleaning off (the very evident) sand...at least I hope not! I'll see if I can dig out the pic of the sandy o-ring.


Hence my reason for wanting to do my own maintenance

Any ways. As the great ad in the 80'-90's from Castrol said: "Oils ain't Oils".

It's not just the viscosity range you need to look out for here. It's the specific ACEA ratings and/or Volvo Specifications that matter. In Australia and the UK, it's recommended to use a 0w20 weight, whilst the US recommends the 5w30. Why?
Lord only knows the answer to that question as my research today came up with nil.

Volvo recommends ACEA A5-B5 and/or VCC RBS0-2AE. The Pennzoil you've chosen falls in that criterion....so well done [emoji3]. The Ultra Platinum version is slightly better at cold start ups....just only very slightly.

Ultra Platinum v Platinum

As you're all probably aware, Castrol and Volvo partnered up in the development of the 2ltr turbo engine used in the XC90 (and the variation before, that was used in the XC60)
My preference in oils has been Liqui-Moly since 2013...it's just that good. Engine runs smoother, quieter and fuel economy improves. Have tested this enough against other brands to know it's not BS.

So, Liqui-Moly have an oil that is VCC RBS0-2AE compliant...Special Tec V 0w20.
Has a low pour point, high flash point, a higher Viscosity Index and a lower 40ºC Viscosity and higher 100ºC Viscosity than the specially developed Castrol Professional Edge.
The trouble is, getting it in Australia is difficult. In fact, the Castrol Professional Edge is also difficult...I'll leave it to you to search for this puppy!

Now....

Liqui-Moly also do a Special Tec 0w30 that is VCC 95200377 rated(a Volvo rating and approved for the XC60 2 Ltr turbo'd engine) and ACEA A5-B5 rated...It is pretty damn close to the V 0w20 but is better on the 100ºC Viscosity and also the Total Base Number (11.1 mg KOH/g compared with the V0w20 @ 7.9....higher is better).
The only drawback is it's Sulfate Ash result... <=1.6 wt% compared with 0.9wt%...lower is better.

My question to the audience is.... will this higher sulphate result, affect the catalytic converter in a negative way?

FYI, EUROL do a nice alternative too that is also compliant.

Thank you for your attention [emoji6]
 
#36 ·
As promised, here is the UOA. It seems to be well worth it to change it out at 5k or even earlier, especially if you're committed to long term ownership. (Those leasing probably don't care...)

 
#38 ·
You're truly awesome doing this and sharing it. Thank you

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