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SPA XC90 DIY Oil Change with pics

150K views 299 replies 81 participants last post by  Garfunkgrin 
#1 · (Edited)
SPA XC90 DIY Oil Change with pics, UOA

I did an oil change on our 2018 XC90 at 5k miles, these steps and pics should apply for any 2016/2017/2018/2019 vehicle.
[This thread is for those interested in doing the oil change, not intended to start a holy war. Head over to BITOG for that :D]

See Post 36 for UOA! (Used Oil Analysis)

Materials:

Filter
(Comes with new crush washer, two rubber o-rings for filter housing and one o-ring on filter itself)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W4DSCFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wrench
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0120RYAS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oil (Available from Walmart at a very good price and occasionally goes on sale at Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKJQS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tools:
  • 17mm hex wrench
  • T30 Torx driver (T27 also fits)
  • T40 Torx driver or 6mm Allen

Volvo Oil Recommendation:

NOTE: Volvo now specifies 0W-20 for their SPA vehicles regardless of what is shown in the owner's manual. Oil must meet Volvo spec RBS0-2AE.



Steps:
  • Loosen oil cap under the hood
  • Remove the skid plate (10 T30 Torx screws, plus two spring loaded inserts; T27 also fits)
  • Remove the oil drain plug (17mm hex bolt)
  • Drain oil into suitable container
  • Replace the drain bolt with new crush washer, tighten slightly past 'snug'
  • Optionally remove the T40/6mm bolt from bottom of filter housing (to drain initial oil in filter) [Either T40 Torx or 6mm Allen wrench will fit]
  • Remove the filter housing with the Volvo oil wrench
  • Replace the filter within the housing
  • Replace the large o-ring on the housing
  • Replace the small o-ring on the T40/Allen bolt (bottom of filter housing) [If you removed the bolt]
  • Apply oil to all o-rings!
  • Replace the T40/6mm bolt [if you removed it]
  • Screw in the filter & housing back into engine, I had to use the wrench again. Do not tighten very much! Let the o-ring do the work.
  • Replace skid plate
  • Fill engine with 6.2qt of specified oil [Note: 2016-2017 is 6.2qt; 2018 and newer are 5.9 qt]

Service light reset:


Volvo oil filter wrench


Removing T30 screw, holding the skid plate


Drain bolt location, middle of pic


Removing oil drain bolt


Oil draining
(I recycled it, no whales or dolphins died...)


The oil filter housing


Removing the bolt from oil filter housing, T40 Torx or 6mm Allen will work


Removing the oil filter housing


Old oil filter within housing


Oil filter


Oil filter components


T40 Torx driver, supposedly it's actually a 6mm Allen bolt


Filter bottom bolt and o-ring


Location of large o-ring on filter housing


New filter installed in housing


Drain bolt with new crush washer installed


Installing filter housing



All done!
 
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#137 ·
Well, disregard the ECS Tuning having the oil. They sent me some Audi/VW oil that is not Castrol in any way. Returning this crap and not dealing with this seller again. [emoji849]


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
#143 ·
Not making excuses for ECS sending you something you didn't expect - however I wouldn't hesitate to use that oil myself. VW/Audi 0w-20 will be a good product I'm sure - the most important aspect is that the weight is in the correct range and that it's a synthetic with a decent additive package.
 
#139 ·
Any alternatives to OP filter housing tool that’s the proper fit? It’s no longer in stock and what I got is too loose. Listed as 86.6mm but measures 86.9. I don’t want to play around with orders hoping to lane the right one.

Does anyone also have a part # for the red plastic threads into which the skid plate screws screw into? 3 of mine are stripped
 
#141 ·
Any alternatives to OP filter housing tool that's the proper fit? It's no longer in stock and what I got is too loose. Listed as 86.6mm but measures 86.9. I don't want to play around with orders hoping to lane the right one.

Does anyone also have a part # for the red plastic threads into which the skid plate screws screw into? 3 of mine are stripped
an easy fix for that filter housing tool: take a piece of paper towel and use it as a "liner" between the tool and the filter housing. Will take up that small difference in space and keep the filter housing snug.

Just remember these are plastic housings so the torque required is minimal, it's the 0-ring that makes the seal, not the "tightness" of the housing.
 
#144 ·
Haha! Great minds think alike - I had to do that with the tool I got also, and have had to make similar improvisations in the past.

A good tip for those who might find this later - unthread the filter housing 3/4 of the way, then remove the tool. This way, you can remove the snug tool while the housing is still attached to the engine, which is easier than trying to use your hands on it once it's off.

Not sure I'm explaining that very clearly, but hopefully it makes sense.
 
#145 ·
Yep that’s a good tip. NAPA Gold was the only oil filter I could find nearby for a reasonable price. The small O ring was a bit thinner than OEM so I’ll keep an eye to make sure no leak.

Now, if I could find those red plastic threads the skid plate screw into I would be golden.
 
#148 ·
Yep that's a good tip. NAPA Gold was the only oil filter I could find nearby for a reasonable price. The small O ring was a bit thinner than OEM so I'll keep an eye to make sure no leak.

Now, if I could find those red plastic threads the skid plate screw into I would be golden.
I think this is what you're looking at:
Splash Shield - Parts Diagram

130457
 
#154 ·
@ theclutch,

I don't think there's an o-ring at the bottom of the filter housing. Adding more pics below:
  • Brand new Wix filter. Note that an o-ring is already installed at the top of the filter (I suspect this was the "2nd" ring in your kit...)
  • Used filter, also has that o-ring still installed
  • Filter housing showing the spring loaded cone that mates with the bottom of the filter
  • Interior of new filter - it's much larger than the small o-ring. There's nothing to seal against!

So I think the only rings we need to replace are the large one at the base of the filter housing (below the threads) and optionally the small ring on the oil bolt at the bottom of the housing. The filter itself comes with another o-ring.

New filter, see o-ring already installed


Used filter with the same ring. I never touched it.


Interior of filter housing. There's no place for another ring.


Interior of new filter, bottom view. It's a relatively large channel.
 
#155 · (Edited)
@ theclutch,

I don't think there's an o-ring at the bottom of the filter housing. Adding more pics below:...
Interior of filter housing. There's no place for another ring.
Lol... your third pic is showing where the oring is! My pic is too dark. But yours isn't. Here where the arrow is. But this was admittedly a pita to change out and you better have a pick.

Tableware Dishware Cuisine Kitchen utensil Circle
 
#164 ·
I never knew it existed until this thread. Never looked in there.

The Volvo filters never come with the drain plug washer. Just the filter and 2 o-rings.
They came taped to the outside of the box. So this was probably an individual retailer/dealer thing that I got lucky with for a short time haha.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
#166 · (Edited)
WOOOOW....you guys were not kidding that the oil shoots out horizontally big time!!
I was prepared from reading this thread but still didn’t place the drain pan far enough backwards. My pan is about 24” diameter and next time I will have the far end of it under the back end of the frame stiffener plate and I might catch it all. I also raised the pan about six inches fro the floor.......am thinking that Volvo engineer responsible should go back to school.

I have done oil changes on several BMWs for the last 20+ hrs and never seen oil coming out like this.

Also there was this strange sticky substance on the filterhousing thread right next(below) to the seal and couldn’t figure out what that was other than maybe thickened grease of some sort. Car has always been serviced at the local Volvo dealer.
Any idea what that is and what’s the purpose could be?
 
#189 ·
Ditched my splash guard at the last oil change - very happy with my decision! It cuts the oil change time in half.
(Kept the shield in case we sell the vehicle, then I'll put it back on)
 
#190 ·
As annoying as splash shields can be, I do like how clean they keep the underside.

One other angle to consider is they are engineered to help with the airflow through the various cooling components, since this platform has the active shutters on the front grille.

No fancy naca ducts or cooling passages like the M6, but still worth a mention 🙂
 
#193 ·
...
One other angle to consider is they are engineered to help with the airflow through the various cooling components, since this platform has the active shutters on the front grille.
...
Off topic but referencing your post: Are the Euro and other markets still equipping vehicles (T8 / Recharge) with active shutters?

This functionality has never come to the US markets :cautious: even though I understand our Canadian friends have received the active shutters. MN winters can be colder than some Canadian climes - making the shutters presumably useful.
 
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