(re)Introduction with my 72 164e
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    1. #1
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      (re)Introduction with my 72 164e

      I had an older post in the general rwd forum, but now that I've got the car, here it belongs.

      I love my 09 S60 2.5t awd, it's staying my daily (perhaps until a wagon/crossover takes it's place)


      But. I finally have the "new" car in the garage, the actual car I grew up taking road trips in, my grandpa's 1972 164e. Bought new in Oakland CA, lived in a garage in the bay area until last weekend, where she arrived in my possession on a trailer.

      Automatic, 197,7xx miles, fuel injection and factory ac, it runs, but rough, overall great bones and a great car full of memories. I have a giant pile of receipts from day 1, he had it repainted, reupholstered it, I have the receipt for the dealer installed radio, it's freaking phenomenal honestly (and makes me wish I could have spent more time with him)

      I'd hoping to get her to some shows this summer, but I need some stuff to do distances on the freeway, time shall tell! My gramps passed about 15 years ago, so since then not alot has happened, occasional maintenance and repairs.

      Washed her the first night, and spent some time cleaning the interior, I can't even describe how excited I am about this!!!

      I ordered a first round of maintenance items to get that knocked out, that'll be here next week, oil change, air filter, fuel filter, plugs/wires/cal/rotor etc, belts, debating running sea foam through to try and kind of start fresh.
      Once this is done, I'll need 5 new tires asap, then I can start diagnosing any other unknown issues.
      I know I need a passenger fender signal (grandma broke it), I think I need a motor mount, a window crank is off and the wing windows are not great, everything else is unknown.
      There is a strong patina on the radiator, I'm terrified if I clean that off, I'll be in for a new radiator, we'll see.

      Any hoot, this will be a slow and steady project, this weekend I'm going to replace burned out lights and do some more cleaning.

      Rockauto has some parts, as do ipd and fcpeuro, any additional sources are appreciated as well. I expect eBay will be helpful for some of the odds and ends (like my missing mudflap)

      I will share as I go, but for now:
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

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    3. #2
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      When I first got to her at my parents house, she wouldn't start, luckily it was just an old dead battery (my dad was putting a charger on it which may have actually killed it)

      Regardless, 1 new battery and she started on the 2nd turnover.

      https://www.instagram.com/p/BgcbnoRFnz4/



      I'm 99% sure, can anyone confirm, I do NOT need a lead additive in my fuel? I think it's fine, but I should use the highest octane available, right? Couldn't find much in the owners manual.

      Also, it states 20w40 or 20w50 for summer, how does it (or does it not) come into play with the lead question?

      I want to clean out the entire fuel system, but don't want to introduce bigger issues at this point of the process.
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    4. #3
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      The 1972 B30 should have the lower compression engine (definitely the B20E got changed to the B20F in 1972 so I am guessing the same for the B30) so you should be able to operate successfully on regular gas. However, I am not so sure about the hardened exhaust seats for use with unleaded fuel. My 1971 B20E definitely did not have hardened exhaust seats. I don't know when (or if ever) the B30 received inserts or hardened seats on the exhaust. You may need to do a little searching to find that out. You could use one of those additives to address valve seat wear as insurance; however, as an observation I have never heard of recession of the exhaust seats being a huge issue on B20 / B30 engines running unleaded fuel. That said, when I redid the head on my B20E I had inserts installed because it was cheap (once the head was off and apart).

      Lead or unleaded gas is not a consideration in the oil viscosity that you use. You may be thinking about the debate as to whether the zinc or absence of zinc in modern engine oils is an issue for flat tappet engines like the B30. I will let you do your own research on that can of merde!

      If the car has been sitting for a long time, I highly recommend that you at least drain the fuel tank. Unlike modern cars, the 164 does not have a sealed fuel system. It is free to breath air through the Evap canister which means that it can accumulate moisture in the gas over extended storage. The 164 should have a drain plug on the tank; however, I suggest trying to siphon out most of the gas first before opening the drain plug. Based on what comes out you may need to do some additional cleaning!

      While ordering new parts, order a new correct fuel filter for the D jet and install after you have drained (and flushed ?) the fuel tank.

      Go to this link for a list of vintage Volvo specific suppliers:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...e-to-buy-parts

      On your to-do list I also recommend that you give consideration to replacing all of the fuel lines if they are original. 46 year old rubber will have lost its durability! I suggest Parker Push-on Abrasion King or Gates Barrier as excellent fuel line. More expensive than the over the counter stuff at the generic parts suppliers; but, much better quality.

      New radiator and heater hoses would also be advisable. The original radiator will be brass (and weighs a ton). I wouldn't be worried about the 'patina'. The major issue will likely be sludge clogging the lower tubes causing loss of cooling capacity. A good radiator shop should be able to clean out the radiator and repair any leaks that they find. The reality is that repair may be your only option since I am not sure that reproductions for the radiator exist unless you want to get a custom radiator from someone like Griffin.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 04-14-2018 at 01:12 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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    6. #4
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      The 1972 B30 should have the lower compression engine (definitely the B20E got changed to the B20F in 1972 so I am guessing the same for the B30) so you should be able to operate successfully on regular gas. However, I am not so sure about the hardened exhaust seats for use with unleaded fuel. My 1971 B20E definitely did not have hardened exhaust seats. I don't know when (or if ever) the B30 received inserts or hardened seats on the exhaust. You may need to do a little searching to find that out. You could use one of those additives to address valve seat wear as insurance; however, as an observation I have never heard of recession of the exhaust seats being a huge issue on B20 / B30 engines running unleaded fuel. That said, when I redid the head on my B20E I had inserts installed because it was cheap (once the head was off and apart).

      Lead or unleaded gas is not a consideration in the oil viscosity that you use. You may be thinking about the debate as to whether the zinc or absence of zinc in modern engine oils is an issue for flat tappet engines like the B30. I will let you do your own research on that can of merde!

      If the car has been sitting for a long time, I highly recommend that you at least drain the fuel tank. Unlike modern cars, the 164 does not have a sealed fuel system. It is free to breath air through the Evap canister which means that it can accumulate moisture in the gas over extended storage. The 164 should have a drain plug on the tank; however, I suggest trying to siphon out most of the gas first before opening the drain plug. Based on what comes out you may need to do some additional cleaning!

      While ordering new parts, order a new correct fuel filter for the D jet and install after you have drained (and flushed ?) the fuel tank.

      Go to this link for a list of vintage Volvo specific suppliers:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...e-to-buy-parts

      On your to-do list I also recommend that you give consideration to replacing all of the fuel lines if they are original. 46 year old rubber will have lost its durability! I suggest Parker Push-on Abrasion King or Gates Barrier as excellent fuel line. More expensive than the over the counter stuff at the generic parts suppliers; but, much better quality.

      New radiator and heater hoses would also be advisable. The original radiator will be brass (and weighs a ton). I wouldn't be worried about the 'patina'. The major issue will likely be sludge clogging the lower tubes causing loss of cooling capacity. A good radiator shop should be able to clean out the radiator and repair any leaks that they find. The reality is that repair may be your only option since I am not sure that reproductions for the radiator exist unless you want to get a custom radiator from someone like Griffin.
      That is a wealth of information, so thank you!

      I did order a fuel filter as well, forgot to mention that. I also bought a new fire extinguisher for the car/garage, it's kind of funny, but the reality is I expect any rubber to need to be replaced and I don't want to be in a bad place if something happens.

      I've got a few manuals (bought a Haynes on ebay and have a green book too), so I'll definitely dig into draining the tank, I definitely want to do that to start as fresh as possible, and the fuel system is a good place to start.
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    7. #5
      Junior Member MjollnirXC60's Avatar
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      Please keep us up to date on the repairs and videos!

    8. #6
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      Spiked60!! Way cool, and to have it stay in the family!
      As you may or may not know, we had a 74 and loved it. My Mom loved it and then when we moved we traded it on a Honda. I was sad that day, but the Volvo bug had bitten me. Both my sister and I drive them now and have no plans to change that! Great to see it in the garage.
      "The Real IPD" - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      2007 Passion Red/Gobi VRgt; 2005 Silver/Beige Leather S60 2.5T AWD; 2002 Silver/Off black leather V70XC
      Past: 1999 Tropic Blue/Green/Oak leather V70 (NAa); Mom traded 1975 Maroon/Maroon leather 164E

    9. #7
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      This is a web page with links for primarily 1800 documents; but, if you scroll down to about the middle of the page you will find a link to a .pdf of the trouble shooting guide for the D jet system. The guide is primarily for the B20E engine in the 1800E so the location of components will not be the same; but, most of the actual components will be the same. More importantly, the trouble shooting procedures will be the same. The exception may be the cold start valve operation and the system fuel pressure. I think the document is circa 1970 (first 1800 E). I believe Volvo bumped the fuel pressure from 28 to 30 psi for the 1972 model year and I think the operation of the cold start injector changed slightly.

      There are also service manuals for the BW35 which may come in handy and air conditioning if your car is so equipped.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    10. #8
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Very cool, while this isn't what I'm looking for tonight, I'm happy to have that info for when I get there!



      Pulled the uprights off the front bumper and removed the front plate until the classic one's show up. I'm hoping I'll be able to buff out the damage from those pieces, wonder if that was a US spec add on, easy enough to remove with an alan wrench.
      Also pulled the lenses to start cleaning and replacing bulbs, also a few will need repair or replacement, we'll see how that goes.
      (bumper mounted signal lense is cracked, fender mounted signal lens and body are gone)

      Will head to the store to get a bunch of bulbs, then will be able to see if there are any wiring issues or bad bulb connections.

      I'd love to go LED, but until I iron out things, let's keep it simple, yes?

      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    11. #9
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      While you out and about getting new bulbs, drop by Home Depot (or the big box reno place of your choosing) and pick up a tube of Ox Gard. Its a conducting grease. Apply it to the base of the bulbs to improve the connection of the bulb in the socket and reduce further oxidation of the contacts in the socket. Its a useful addition to any of the electrical connections in the car and its cheap - used to be less than $5 a tube.

      What is the color code for your car? In the daylight photo it looks darker; but, in the last photo it looks to be very close to the same color as my 142 - color code 102 which the paint company called poly steel blue.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    12. #10
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      While you out and about getting new bulbs, drop by Home Depot (or the big box reno place of your choosing) and pick up a tube of Ox Gard. Its a conducting grease. Apply it to the base of the bulbs to improve the connection of the bulb in the socket and reduce further oxidation of the contacts in the socket. Its a useful addition to any of the electrical connections in the car and its cheap - used to be less than $5 a tube.

      What is the color code for your car? In the daylight photo it looks darker; but, in the last photo it looks to be very close to the same color as my 142 - color code 102 which the paint company called poly steel blue.
      I'm pretty sure I have a large tube of electrical grease already, but will make sure. It's so painful to change some bulbs in my S60, I try to do it once, right lol.

      Just checked the code, 111, Alpine Blue Metallic, fancy. But I agree, the color saturation varies a bunch depending on light, I'm looking forward to some better weather to get it cleaned real good (and I need to learn how to properly polish/wax this paint, single stage I think?)

      While testing bulbs last night, I was running the hazards to identify the blinkers, and in the process of pulling bulbs, the hazards no longer work (but the indicators/blinkers work, so I don't think it's the relay) Hope I didn't pop a fuse, I do need to get a stock of those too.

      I grew up working on dad's cars in the 80's, I swear I'm not an idiot, but I have a bunch of old things to remember

      Drove 6 hours in a snow storm today to adopt a dog, so no car progress, except I was reminded to put new tires on the wife's CRV...
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    13. #11
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Putting around, got into looking at parts last night.

      After finding the hella part number, I'm optimistic I may be able to find the blinker housing/lens that I need. New lens I can find, the bulb base, not so much. One on ebay with a red lens.

      Also while the solid orange front blinkers will work for now, one lens is cracked, and, the clear/orange set does look nicer......
      Anyone know how long parts take to get delivered from VP Auto parts?


      And was excited to see random web pictures with driving lights instead of the fake grills, that's god my curiosity piqued for sure.


      Any hoot. New job tomorrow, new dog in the house, hoping to have some classic car time this week, parts should be here for the tune-up in the vaguely better weather next weekend!

      Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    14. #12
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      'electric grease' - just make sure that it is not dielectric grease or ignition tune up grease. Dielectric grease is typically silicon base, good on rubber parts and an excellent electrical insulator. Not the hot ticket for improving the conductivity of bulb sockets. I have heard of people using dielectric grease in things like ignition switches and then wondering why the electrical operation of the switch is worse than before; but, the mechanical operation is really nice!

      If VP has the parts in stock in their US facility, my experience is that their packing and shipping time is about the same as everybody else. I just ordered a replacement foam cushion bottom for my leather seats (same seats as yours) from VP. Not in stock in North America so delivery is probably going to be around 2 months by the time it gets from Sweden to the US facility to Canada. I quizzed them about direct shipment from Sweden to Canada. Turned out that wasn't a place I wanted to go cost wise in terms of air freight for a large volume package across the Atlantic! They were good about it. No payment until it arrives and they are ready to ship out of the US facility.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    15. #13
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      'electric grease' - just make sure that it is not dielectric grease or ignition tune up grease. Dielectric grease is typically silicon base, good on rubber parts and an excellent electrical insulator. Not the hot ticket for improving the conductivity of bulb sockets. I have heard of people using dielectric grease in things like ignition switches and then wondering why the electrical operation of the switch is worse than before; but, the mechanical operation is really nice!

      If VP has the parts in stock in their US facility, my experience is that their packing and shipping time is about the same as everybody else. I just ordered a replacement foam cushion bottom for my leather seats (same seats as yours) from VP. Not in stock in North America so delivery is probably going to be around 2 months by the time it gets from Sweden to the US facility to Canada. I quizzed them about direct shipment from Sweden to Canada. Turned out that wasn't a place I wanted to go cost wise in terms of air freight for a large volume package across the Atlantic! They were good about it. No payment until it arrives and they are ready to ship out of the US facility.
      Absolutely right, I have dielectric. Hmm, thank you, I am little better educated!

      Spent some $ at the store, bought bulbs, so far so good, some just needed some oxidation cleaned off of the contact points. Progress, not perfection. Also discovered a fuse or 2 are dead, so ordered a pack to of those, was surprised the local Auto store didn't have any honestly.

      Ran it for 10 minutes in the garage, start to get up to temp at least, I'm itching to drive it for sure.

      And between eBay and VP, I've just now ordered a new turn signal body/base for the fender, and 3 new lenses (and hardware), so when those show up, I think, she'll be good to go.

      Tune up parts all showed up, so if this snow ends, I'll get to that this weekend.

      Once we get above freezing, more cleaning is definitely needed!
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    16. #14
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      Really nice early bumper 164 there. It's amazing (at least it was for me) how getting the lights working provides motivation for the next step in the rehab.
      Hang on to those blue plates- if you ever sell it to a California buyer they will be grateful.

    17. #15
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by thispunter View Post
      Really nice early bumper 164 there. It's amazing (at least it was for me) how getting the lights working provides motivation for the next step in the rehab.
      Hang on to those blue plates- if you ever sell it to a California buyer they will be grateful.
      Definitely keeping the plates, although I'm hoping to not pass this car along for quite a while.

      You mention the bumpers, they're pretty good, but I'll be seeing if I can gently straighten the rear, it's got a noticeable dent but since it looks like a softer aluminum alloy, I'm wondering if I can use wood blocks and a vice to ease it back in shape.

      The front will need some elbow grease to try and correct the scratches from the uprights.


      The front indicator lenses are in stock locally with VP, so I should have those early next week, Yay!
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    18. #16
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      If you are moderately obsessive, its fairly easy to spiff up the rest of your plastic signal light lenses so that they are nice and shiny like the new parts. A little Meguiar's 105 or similar high cut compound combined with a DA buffer will usually get the plastic looking good in a few minutes.

      On my 140, the bumper has a heavier aluminum under structure. It used to have a relatively thin layer of polished metal over the top of the aluminum. Unfortunately, the two layers were not bonded and the second skin started to look like crap. I ended up pulling the outer skin off and just going with the basic aluminum bumper. If my aluminum had been in good condition, I could have polished it up; however it was pitted (moisture and crud got between the two layers) so I filled the pits and then sprayed it to color match the body. Your bumpers don't look like they have the 'second skin', so it should be fairly easy to polish / grind out small imperfections. If the bumpers are just the bare aluminum, they will have to have some protective coating on them that will have to be replaced after the repair work. Polished aluminum doesn't stay polished for very long if un protected.

      Small dents can be tapped out. Larger dents can be hammered out. Tapping / hammering will require grinding and polishing to restore the surface appearance. A large C clamp with suitable blocking may work to press smaller dents back into place. When hammering, application of heat helps with the larger dents; but, is risky. Unlike steel which is still solid before it becomes incandescent, aluminum turns into a puddle before it glows so you don't get that handy visual indication that its hot. Large radius gentle 'bends' can be 'unbent with wood blocks and some force.

      The rubber covers on the bumpers tend to develop vertical cracks at the corner where they wrap from the front to the side of the bumper. Replacement rubber used to be available (at least for the rear); but, $$$. Cracks and nicks in the rubber can be filled and then the rubber sprayed with adhesion promoter and painted to color match the filler and rubber. You may have to go to a dedicated auto body supplier to find the correct fillers for use on rubber (its definitely not Bondo). I had my rear rubber filled and painted. The repairs are not perfect. I know where the repairs are and If I get down close, I can spot them. Casual observers will not spot the repairs.

      The temperatures here are finally starting to get close to seasonal. It was snowing on Tuesday; but, its supposed to be over +10 C on the weekend. If it melts and dries up a bit I might be able to take the 140 out of storage, license it and take it for a spin.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    19. #17
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      If you are moderately obsessive, its fairly easy to spiff up the rest of your plastic signal light lenses so that they are nice and shiny like the new parts. A little Meguiar's 105 or similar high cut compound combined with a DA buffer will usually get the plastic looking good in a few minutes.

      On my 140, the bumper has a heavier aluminum under structure. It used to have a relatively thin layer of polished metal over the top of the aluminum. Unfortunately, the two layers were not bonded and the second skin started to look like crap. I ended up pulling the outer skin off and just going with the basic aluminum bumper. If my aluminum had been in good condition, I could have polished it up; however it was pitted (moisture and crud got between the two layers) so I filled the pits and then sprayed it to color match the body. Your bumpers don't look like they have the 'second skin', so it should be fairly easy to polish / grind out small imperfections. If the bumpers are just the bare aluminum, they will have to have some protective coating on them that will have to be replaced after the repair work. Polished aluminum doesn't stay polished for very long if un protected.

      Small dents can be tapped out. Larger dents can be hammered out. Tapping / hammering will require grinding and polishing to restore the surface appearance. A large C clamp with suitable blocking may work to press smaller dents back into place. When hammering, application of heat helps with the larger dents; but, is risky. Unlike steel which is still solid before it becomes incandescent, aluminum turns into a puddle before it glows so you don't get that handy visual indication that its hot. Large radius gentle 'bends' can be 'unbent with wood blocks and some force.

      The rubber covers on the bumpers tend to develop vertical cracks at the corner where they wrap from the front to the side of the bumper. Replacement rubber used to be available (at least for the rear); but, $$$. Cracks and nicks in the rubber can be filled and then the rubber sprayed with adhesion promoter and painted to color match the filler and rubber. You may have to go to a dedicated auto body supplier to find the correct fillers for use on rubber (its definitely not Bondo). I had my rear rubber filled and painted. The repairs are not perfect. I know where the repairs are and If I get down close, I can spot them. Casual observers will not spot the repairs.

      The temperatures here are finally starting to get close to seasonal. It was snowing on Tuesday; but, its supposed to be over +10 C on the weekend. If it melts and dries up a bit I might be able to take the 140 out of storage, license it and take it for a spin.
      142 Guy, you are a wealth of information!!

      I washed the lenses last night (wife was happy I was using the veggie brush in the kitchen sink), the rear lights have no damage, but evidence of years of exposure, I would worry about too much pressure while polishing the plastic. I honestly am debating clear protectant, I use lamin-x on my S60 and it provides a strong layer of protection (I crashed a Subaru and this stuff kept the shattered lenses contained).
      Or for the occasional drive, maybe nothing drastic.

      I will definitely take a look at the bumpers to see their makeup, as for body dents, I may fold and see what a body shop would charge to pop out the few.

      Lots to do and think about!
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    20. #18
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      Its your choice; but, you don't need to apply much pressure to clean up the lenses. In fact, with a DA buffer if you apply too much pressure, the buffer stops. However, you can also do the polishing by hand, it will just take a little longer and burn some more calories - perfect excuse for a hops flavoured malted barley refreshment! One of my taillight lenses was cracked when I did my resto. At the time I sourced a correct replacement from GCP which made the other original lens look really bad. I didn't have a DA buffer at the time, so I hand polished the lens using polishing compound - made a world of difference.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    21. #19
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      I have a foam cone buffing attachment for my drill that I use for everything. Itís ideal for small polishing jobs and hard to reach places. I use it with all sorts of polishes and you can just rinse and reuse. They are cheap and super versatile.




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    22. #20
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      Another day another dollar.

      Started off basically removing every fuse and replacing them, they were either urmed out, falling apart, or the wrong amperage.

      Then moved to the trunk gutted it, cleaned it out, not perfect, but nothing terrible. I'll have to figure out how the jack is supposed to be stored.

      After dinner moved to the tuneup, plugs and wires, cap and rotor, air filter and belts.
      Wires were rigid and brittle. One spark plug was loose. All were oily and several white. Cap and rotor were w very well worn and arced. Air filter, Meh.
      The belts, oh boy took forever to get off basically removed all the adjustment bolts, removed the ac bracket from the block, major pita, but, accomplished.

      Here's the cold idle dropping to a warmer rpm:

      https://www.instagram.com/p/Bh283-mF385/

      No before video, but it definitely ran rougher and popped and sputtered before.

      My ebay fender turn signal showed up so that's on, just waiting for an orange lens from Sweden. The front markers showed up from VP Autoparts super fast, nice to have those on already, and I kinda like the amber clear combo.

      Tomorrow the oil change, turns out I don't possess the right filter wrench...
      I'm thinking of doing the fuel tank cleaning now, so that'll probably wait until next weekend so I can plan and get the sock filter.

      Overall a good day!

      Once the oil is changed I'll do a lap around the neighborhood to get a feel,and of course better pics
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    23. #21
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      White spark plug tips on a car of 1972 vintage is not a good thing. After digital ECUs with closed loop fuel control via O2 sensors came into production, the engines ran at or very close to 14.7 AFRs. This results in spark plug tips with a whitish to white / gray - white / light tan insulator tip. On your 1972, the AFRs will typically be less than 14.7 resulting in spark plugs with a tan to dark tan insulator tip. If its not on the check-up list yet, plan for a fuel pressure test as the change in fuel mix is directly proportional to the fuel pressure. On the 1972 B20F, the fuel pressure setting is 30 psi. I suspect; but, don't know for sure that the B30 is the same - worth confirming in the shop manual. Of course, a really loose spark plug could also really screw up the mix in the cylinder giving you those white plugs.

      What heat range were the plugs?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    24. #22
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      White spark plug tips on a car of 1972 vintage is not a good thing. After digital ECUs with closed loop fuel control via O2 sensors came into production, the engines ran at or very close to 14.7 AFRs. This results in spark plug tips with a whitish to white / gray - white / light tan insulator tip. On your 1972, the AFRs will typically be less than 14.7 resulting in spark plugs with a tan to dark tan insulator tip. If its not on the check-up list yet, plan for a fuel pressure test as the change in fuel mix is directly proportional to the fuel pressure. On the 1972 B20F, the fuel pressure setting is 30 psi. I suspect; but, don't know for sure that the B30 is the same - worth confirming in the shop manual. Of course, a really loose spark plug could also really screw up the mix in the cylinder giving you those white plugs.

      What heat range were the plugs?
      Perhaps calling them white was an over statement.
      Here are 2 pics, in order of removal, right side was motor front, left side of the row, motor rear.
      Plug #2 was the finger loose one.

      I'll dig into the pile of receipts to see when these were installed.
      Old plugs = NGK BP6H S
      New plugs = NGK BPR6H S
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    25. #23
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      Mmmmm - definitely not white. No worries about melting a hole in a piston. Perhaps a trifle on the rich side - again reason for checking the fuel pressure to make sure that it is not too much. Looks like you have addressed the air filter as a potential issue.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    26. #24
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Monday morning, drinking my coffee typing at work.

      Not a whole lot of progress yesterday like I had hoped. Had a 5k, then removed the winter wheels from the S60 and washed both of our DDís. Then decided to clean/mop the garage to try and remove any winter salt residue (and some old greasy gunk that I got off of the 164), we finally got nice weather here in Wisconsin.


      Drove the 164 around the block, got a few pictures, and then came home and did the oil change. My fender signal from ebay showed up fast (the amber replacement lens will be here in a while), and the front signals showed up from VP so it was nice to get the lights all back together and almost buttoned up.


      I will inspect the old oil better tonight after work, the local Napa was suggesting I pull the oil pan, or use a cleaning additive to the oil (add it, run it for a few minutes, and then drain out the oil and hopefully loosened sludge/grossness, donít run it for a long time like Seafoam). I donít know, this week I hope to get the motor externally/cosmetically cleaned better, there is a lot of that needed but I donít want to introduce larger problems. For now, start with the small things, I may do another oil change in the fall so I can fully record the condition based on a known baseline and mileage, almost tempted to do a blackstone analysis.



      For the life of me, I canít find the in fuel tank, pre suction filter/sock filter/strainer available anywhere online, I suppose I will just pull the plug and see what I see, the fuel needle is currently at ľ tank (aka ďRĒ), so I bought a second drain pan yesterday for the purpose of gasoline catching next weekend.





      I did find a random wire last night dangling down between the exhaust pipes, itís old and brittle and I did chase it back to a sheath that goes behind the motor at valve cover level, but thatís right where most of the harnesses & throttle go, so I stopped investigating. It was dark and once again, didnít want to start problems unnecessarily.



      I think I need to clean and lube the throttle cable/linkage, it seems very stiff and slow to move, I know Iím spoiled with current cars and their fly by wire controls, but I swear this is harder than it should be.



      And I discovered my brake lights are flakey, I will pull the brake light switch at the pedal to see if I can clean that up, or if Iíll need to order a new one.



      And yeah, I am missing parts from the driverís window crank handle, so Iíll be looking for one of those.



      IPD sells these things to remedy the wing window locks from coming unglued, anyone know about those? Worth it? One of mine has lost the latch completely (and both have lost their glue on the top pivot point)

      https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5599...xoC_KcQAvD_BwE


      And I hope to get her to a shop this week for tires, will have to price them out, but I need all 5 replaced, and it wouldnít be a bad idea to have a second set of eyes check out the suspension/brakes just to see if thereís any glaring issues to address (the car does lean on the driverís side quite a bit)


      The radiator cap (the one on the actual radiator) randomly will leak a tiny tiny bit, Iím not sure if that is supposed to be removable or brazed on, it has scratches as though it is threaded. If I drive this thing anywhere in the summer Iím going to want to make sure the cooling system can maintain, so that may be moved to the front of the line.


      Thatís the current status, lots of new things, not a lot of answers, but everything I do makes her run just a little better, and thatís pretty rad. Every place I go for a random part, the guys all want to see the car in person, so that make this even more fun, I forget that rust free cars from the 60ís to 70ís are not so common here in the Midwest, less than 2 weeks until my first cars & coffee scheduled, like 3 miles from my house




      All I need is unlimited time and resources and this thing would be so great, patience is not my strong suit.....
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    27. #25
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      In-tank suction strainer:

      https://www.ipdusa.com/products/2078...1800-1971-1972

      Your photos indicate that you have BW35 auto. I am not particularly familiar with the auto; but, from the wiring diagram I know that there are electrical connections to the BW35 and those are the only wires that would normally be down in that area. All the wiring back to the trunk goes through the passenger compartment and ends up in that harness in your trunk photo. If the dangling wire is on the right side of the engine, could it be the wire for the oil pressure switch? If the oil pressure warning light doesn't come on a start up, that would be a sure sign.

      Can't comment on the effectiveness of the IPD vent window locks. The lock on my passenger side vent dropped off last summer. I used a Permatex rear view mirror re attachment kit to put it back on. So far its holding just fine. Of course, only works if the lock assembly has not gone AWOL. Some of the individual lock pieces are still available; but, you need the part # to search to find out what is available.

      Does the 164 have a cable from the throttle pedal linkage on the firewall to the throttle body? My 142E had that cable arrangement and I discovered a broken strand inside the jacket was causing the cable to drag. Unfortunately, not something that I could spot until I had the cable off which allowed me to pull the cable inner further out of the jacket exposing the broken strand. Last thing to check if nothing else fixes the problem.

      In your one photo with the hood up, it looks like the rad fill cap is in the center of the top tank, so it looks like the 164 did not get the later cross flow rad design used on the 140s starting around 1971. This is the cap you are talking about?

      http://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/arti...01641800-67-73

      If so, the cap is removable (just twist off). The first thing to check would be the flat rubber gasket underneath. On my brand new rad cap, the tangs were not properly positioned or the rubber was not thick enough, or .. whatever. Net effect was the cap did not seal well and coolant oozed out under the cap when pressurized. If the rubber seal under the cap is in good condition, try removing it and adding some brass shim stock underneath (or a thicker piece of rubber) in order to get a tighter seal between the cap and the filler neck. If coolant is oozing out at the base of the filler neck then its time to pull the rad out and take it to a rad shop to have them resolder the neck. While its out have them clean out the rad to make sure it is 'tuned up' for hot summer use.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 04-23-2018 at 10:46 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by spiked60 View Post
      IPD sells these things to remedy the wing window locks from coming unglued, anyone know about those? Worth it? One of mine has lost the latch completely (and both have lost their glue on the top pivot point)
      My driver side lock had also fallen off and I installed one of those IPD universal locks. It works fine, just a bit more fiddly to use than the stock unit. It comes with a rubber pad to cushion between the metal clamp base and the glass so you'll have to trim it before installing. Overall, a serviceable solution. I intend to try one of those rearview mirror adhesive kits to reattach the original lock, but I imagine the likelihood of that working is low.

      Quote Originally Posted by spiked60 View Post
      The radiator cap (the one on the actual radiator) randomly will leak a tiny tiny bit, Iím not sure if that is supposed to be removable or brazed on, it has scratches as though it is threaded. If I drive this thing anywhere in the summer Iím going to want to make sure the cooling system can maintain, so that may be moved to the front of the line.
      I changed my radiator cap as well and you can see the discussion at the link below (posts 112-116). It should be removable.:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-72-142E/page4
      Last edited by MonzaA4; 04-23-2018 at 01:21 PM.

    29. #27
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      In-tank suction strainer:

      https://www.ipdusa.com/products/2078...1800-1971-1972

      Your photos indicate that you have BW35 auto. I am not particularly familiar with the auto; but, from the wiring diagram I know that there are electrical connections to the BW35 and those are the only wires that would normally be down in that area. All the wiring back to the trunk goes through the passenger compartment and ends up in that harness in your trunk photo. If the dangling wire is on the right side of the engine, could it be the wire for the oil pressure switch? If the oil pressure warning light doesn't come on a start up, that would be a sure sign.

      Can't comment on the effectiveness of the IPD vent window locks. The lock on my passenger side vent dropped off last summer. I used a Permatex rear view mirror re attachment kit to put it back on. So far its holding just fine. Of course, only works if the lock assembly has no gone AWOL. Some of the individual lock pieces are still available; but, you need the part # to search to find out what is available.

      Does the 164 have a cable from the throttle pedal linkage on the firewall to the throttle body? My 142E had that cable arrangement and I discovered a broken strand inside the jacket was causing the cable to drag. Unfortunately, not something that I could spot until I had the cable off which allowed me to pull the cable inner further out of the jacket exposing the broken strand. Last thing to check if nothing else fixes the problem.

      In your one photo with the hood up, it looks like the rad fill cap is in the center of the top tank, so it looks like the 164 did not get the later cross flow rad design used on the 140s starting around 1971. This is the cap you are talking about?

      http://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/arti...01641800-67-73

      If so, the cap is removable (just twist off). The first thing to check would be the flat rubber gasket underneath. On my brand new rad cap, the tangs were not properly positioned or the rubber was not thick enough, or .. whatever. Net effect was the cap did not seal well and coolant oozed out under the cap when pressurized. If the rubber seal under the cap is in good condition, try removing it and adding some brass shim stock underneath (or a thicker piece of rubber) in order to get a tighter seal between the cap and the filler neck. If coolant is oozing out at the base of the filler neck then its time to pull the rad out and take it to a rad shop to have them resolder the neck. While its out have them clean out the rad to make sure it is 'tuned up' for hot summer use.
      I swear, I looked all over, just not in the right place apparently. This is definitely an exercise in tracking info to various sources.

      The center radiator cap looks very old hence my curiosity if it was a permanent piece, I'll check it out in more detail tonight, but the pressure cap is mounted on the reservoir on to the right of the radiator. But having it as a high point for filling and purging does make sense as well.

      The oil pressure light does not light at startup (not even the initial turnover after the oil change), but before changing the oil, it did occasionally illuminate while idling once warm. I'll have to look into that further, and will double check if it does light up on starting.

      And yes, there's a cable linkage for the throttle, from the throttle to the firewall looks good, wonder if either a dry lube of a clean liquid lubricant would help with that.
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    30. #28
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MonzaA4 View Post
      My driver side lock had also fallen off and I installed one of those IPD universal locks. It works fine, just a bit more fiddly to use than the stock unit. It comes with a rubber pad to cushion between the metal clamp base and the glass so you'll have to trim it before installing. Overall, a serviceable solution. I intend to try one of those rearview mirror adhesive kits to reattach the original lock, but I imagine the likelihood of that working is low.



      I changed my radiator cap as well and you can see the discussion at the link below (posts 112-116). It should be removable.:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-72-142E/page4
      Gotcha, makes sense.

      Maybe I'll try glue for the windows for now since it's primarily the top that's an issue, but I'll keep those ipd parts in mind.
      Hmmm


      (I'm also looking forward to watching that rally video later tonight)
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    31. #29
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      Also, the Suction filter is available at VP, 2 bucks cheaper.

      http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...e&artno=688593

      I have the IPD vent window locks on my 142 as one of the original ones came unglued. And ALSO the top metal pin that is glued to the glass has detached. certainly some good CA should re affix it, but the IPD ones installed about half way up the trailing edge secure the vent window, and as they come in a pair for 9 bucks, good value.

      They are not as easy to operate as the originals as you have to unscrew and slide the movable section, then re tighten once the window is open so that it dosen't rattle and vibrate apart so that you loose half of it, but I like them.
      Last edited by scaramoucheii; 04-23-2018 at 10:41 PM.
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    32. #30
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      "The Real IPD" - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      2007 Passion Red/Gobi VRgt; 2005 Silver/Beige Leather S60 2.5T AWD; 2002 Silver/Off black leather V70XC
      Past: 1999 Tropic Blue/Green/Oak leather V70 (NAa); Mom traded 1975 Maroon/Maroon leather 164E

    33. #31
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      Quote Originally Posted by ZZZZZZZ View Post
      Aw that sucks, I know that guy, well, I know him through Instagram, wasn't aware he was selling it.
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    34. #32
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      New shoes today. This, and the brake light switch in the mail, and I should be able to start driving her actual places!
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    35. #33
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      Had a fun day, put on a new window crank, replaced a dead brake light switch, and fixed the ebrake light button issue.
      Followed that with a fuel tank drain, external fuel filter change, and some fresh premium. (didn't have the right tool to access the strainer filter, ooops). Although, the gas came out quite clean, so I'm optimistic.
      Also, dug through the receipts and started to organize the recent work, unfortunately my grandpa passed around 2002, and grandma went downhill around 2010, so the history became less clear. But, lots of information still.

      Cleaned the engine compartment today, lots of progress, more needed. I'm sure this will expose the leaks, but that's ok, it's SO much cleaner now.

      Followed up with a trip to top off the gas, grab some beer, and then 10 miles to get her really warmed up.

      Looking forward to more miles and a cars and coffee next week!
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    36. #34
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      After getting the tires on and driving a bit with a fullgas tank, the drivers side rear feels even lower.
      I found oem style springs on VP, and then got sidetracked when I found sport springs form lesjofors, but then in this post 142guy mentioned not liking them.
      I didn't really want to lower the car, definitely don't want to have mess with alignment and suspension issues, but at the same time, it is novel...
      But I think I'll be looking at springs to correct the ride height, but that's lower on the list at the moment

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?p=6694362
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

    37. #35
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      The 1972 B30 should have the lower compression engine (definitely the B20E got changed to the B20F in 1972 so I am guessing the same for the B30) so you should be able to operate successfully on regular gas. However, I am not so sure about the hardened exhaust seats for use with unleaded fuel. My 1971 B20E definitely did not have hardened exhaust seats. I don't know when (or if ever) the B30 received inserts or hardened seats on the exhaust. You may need to do a little searching to find that out. You could use one of those additives to address valve seat wear as insurance; however, as an observation I have never heard of recession of the exhaust seats being a huge issue on B20 / B30 engines running unleaded fuel. That said, when I redid the head on my B20E I had inserts installed because it was cheap (once the head was off and apart).

      Lead or unleaded gas is not a consideration in the oil viscosity that you use. You may be thinking about the debate as to whether the zinc or absence of zinc in modern engine oils is an issue for flat tappet engines like the B30. I will let you do your own research on that can of merde!

      If the car has been sitting for a long time, I highly recommend that you at least drain the fuel tank. Unlike modern cars, the 164 does not have a sealed fuel system. It is free to breath air through the Evap canister which means that it can accumulate moisture in the gas over extended storage. The 164 should have a drain plug on the tank; however, I suggest trying to siphon out most of the gas first before opening the drain plug. Based on what comes out you may need to do some additional cleaning!

      While ordering new parts, order a new correct fuel filter for the D jet and install after you have drained (and flushed ?) the fuel tank.

      Go to this link for a list of vintage Volvo specific suppliers:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...e-to-buy-parts

      On your to-do list I also recommend that you give consideration to replacing all of the fuel lines if they are original. 46 year old rubber will have lost its durability! I suggest Parker Push-on Abrasion King or Gates Barrier as excellent fuel line. More expensive than the over the counter stuff at the generic parts suppliers; but, much better quality.

      New radiator and heater hoses would also be advisable. The original radiator will be brass (and weighs a ton). I wouldn't be worried about the 'patina'. The major issue will likely be sludge clogging the lower tubes causing loss of cooling capacity. A good radiator shop should be able to clean out the radiator and repair any leaks that they find. The reality is that repair may be your only option since I am not sure that reproductions for the radiator exist unless you want to get a custom radiator from someone like Griffin.
      Guess I'm hitting some fuel lines tomorrow. Started the car tonight after a week of sitting, by 2 minutes in I smelled raw fuel, killed the engine.

      Found fuel spilled on the intake/injector lines. I later found a leak in one of the short pieces of hose from the pressure regulator to the rail, easy fix with an inch of tubing hopefully.

      The primary culprit though, is the large metal ring over the injector (which I had a loose one and found you could tighten), is that really the hold down for the injectors?

      I assume I knocked it loose washing the motor, but will make sure to be real freaking careful not to do that ever again!


      On a side note, ordered a new strainer and drain plug for my gas tank.
      And the sport springs too.....


      Finally, as for oil pressure. No light at start up, here's a pic of the mystery wire. The single black wire comes out of a plastic sleeve, at the red arrow.
      I have no idea but will crawl around more. I'll have to find the oil pressure sensor, I can't find it in either manual, is it on the top behind the valve cover? The blue arrow? Or is it lower near the oil pan/filter?

      Anyways, if I fix this fuel leak, I was planning on a 30 mile drive to a cars and coffee, but, we'll see how tomorrow goes.
      The daily, 2009 S60 2.5T AWD, Ice White, Shark Stage 1.
      The cruiser, 1972 164E, Alpine Blue Metallic.


      For the most current photos of the day, find me on Instagram

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