V70R Aftermarket subwoofer install in factory subwoofer location
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    1. #1
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      V70R Aftermarket subwoofer install in factory subwoofer location

      Problem:
      -Wanted a bit more bass
      -Didn't want a box eating up cargo space
      -Not looking for spl numbers

      Solution:

      Subwoofer: Dayton Audio 12" low profile 4ohm DVC
      Amp: Sound Ordinance M350-1
      Install kit: Audtek Electronics AWK8
      Total Cost:
      I was only going to use one sub, so I went with the 12". However, I THINK you can fit two 10" subs in that space and keep the cargo tray (tray needed to act like a box).
      Keep in mind that I KEPT the stock cargo tray. however, I may need to fab something up so it seals the subwoofer better, as the air passing around the sides is hurting performance. I'll likely end up just using weatherstripping around the entire edge of the cargo tray.

      UPDATE: Used some rubber foam weatherstripping to "seal" the tray to the underside of the cargo cover. Cover still sits flush with the floor, so that's good. Also, the Lloyd carpet may I had on top of it was sealing the face of the sub a bit too much, which was causing this flutter/rattling sound that ended up being the mat itself. Removed the may from covering the sub and everything is perfect now. AutoEQ on my Pioneer head unit will automatically adjust the EQ settings for all the speakers as well as the sub, set crossover points, and time delays. The biggest thing is setting the EQ and time delays. System sounds amazing now!

      The sub box packaging can be used as a nice template to figure out where you want to cut your hole.



      Once a good location was found, I used another piece of cardboard to center the hole I was going to drill for my circle cutter tool. (Hint: the Black & Decker RTX is more powerful than the dremel, and has a threaded collar so it'll fit in all the dremel accessories).



      Not the best cut, but the best I could do w/o *real* tools. Sanded the inner edges smoother. Nobody will see this anyways, since I'll have a carpeted mat on top of it.



      Perfect fitment!



      Pic of where I mounted the amp. Everything fits with the cargo tray (see below).



      Amp power wiring. I used less than 2' of each cable, and the fuse tucks nicely under the battery holder bar.



      Had to trim the factory box slightly in order to make clearance for the cables. Turn-on and RCAs were also routed through this same hole, which I ahd to cut even deeper to fit the extra wires.



      Sounds good so far, but I can't really turn it up too much yet. Need to seal that cargo tray better or else all the air moving past it causes all sorts of flutter/vibration sounds. Running infinite baffle (tray removed) doesn't work too well either, as these subs aren't really made for that.
      Last edited by aznatama; 05-08-2018 at 10:23 AM.
      '06 V70R TiKap
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    3. #2
      Member Body Massage's Avatar
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      Ooooh, you did a way better job than I
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    4. #3
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      Where the pictures at


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    6. #4
      Junior Member ari951's Avatar
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    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zanteiro View Post
      Where the pictures at


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      They load fine for me... hosted on imgur.
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    8. #6
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aznatama View Post
      Problem:
      -Wanted a bit more bass
      -Didn't want a box eating up cargo space
      -Not looking for spl numbers

      Solution:

      Subwoofer: Dayton Audio 12" low profile 4ohm DVC
      Amp: Sound Ordinance M350-1
      Install kit: Audtek Electronics AWK8
      Total Cost:
      I was only going to use one sub, so I went with the 12". However, I THINK you can fit two 10" subs in that space and keep the cargo tray (tray needed to act like a box).
      Keep in mind that I KEPT the stock cargo tray. however, I may need to fab something up so it seals the subwoofer better, as the air passing around the sides is hurting performance. I'll likely end up just using weatherstripping around the entire edge of the cargo tray.

      The sub box packaging can be used as a nice template to figure out where you want to cut your hole.



      Once a good location was found, I used another piece of cardboard to center the hole I was going to drill for my circle cutter tool. (Hint: the Black & Decker RTX is more powerful than the dremel, and has a threaded collar so it'll fit in all the dremel accessories).



      Not the best cut, but the best I could do w/o *real* tools. Sanded the inner edges smoother. Nobody will see this anyways, since I'll have a carpeted mat on top of it.



      Perfect fitment!



      Pic of where I mounted the amp. Everything fits with the cargo tray (see below).



      Amp power wiring. I used less than 2' of each cable, and the fuse tucks nicely under the battery holder bar.



      Had to trim the factory box slightly in order to make clearance for the cables. Turn-on and RCAs were also routed through this same hole, which I ahd to cut even deeper to fit the extra wires.



      Sounds good so far, but I can't really turn it up too much yet. Need to seal that cargo tray better or else all the air moving past it causes all sorts of flutter/vibration sounds. Running infinite baffle (tray removed) doesn't work too well either, as these subs aren't really made for that.
      Donít forget about mid-bass.... a couple of JL 6W3v3-4 subs in the doors do an awesome job handing the 50Hz - 500Hz void!


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    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by Austin V70R View Post
      Donít forget about mid-bass.... a couple of JL 6W3v3-4 subs in the doors do an awesome job handing the 50Hz - 500Hz void!


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      I'll see what happens after I do a bit of tuning when I have the time. Not sure what the stock system effectively goes down to though. Also not looking to do too much more to my active sound setup...
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    10. #8
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aznatama View Post
      I'll see what happens after I do a bit of tuning when I have the time. Not sure what the stock system effectively goes down to though. Also not looking to do too much more to my active sound setup...
      Does your thread have photos? I donít see them if so



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    11. #9
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aznatama View Post
      I'll see what happens after I do a bit of tuning when I have the time. Not sure what the stock system effectively goes down to though. Also not looking to do too much more to my active sound setup...
      Are you running a stock deck and amp?


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    12. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by Austin V70R View Post
      Does your thread have photos? I donít see them if so

      Are you running a stock deck and amp?


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      Yes, hosted on Imgur. Let me check the settings, but seems like BodyMassage can see them?

      Aftermarket HU (Pioneer 4200NEX) and factory amp.
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    13. #11
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aznatama View Post
      Yes, hosted on Imgur. Let me check the settings, but seems like BodyMassage can see them?

      Aftermarket HU (Pioneer 4200NEX) and factory amp.
      Good setup.


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    14. #12
      Member CKAVolvo's Avatar
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      Great install but please add more detail of how you handled the crossover points, and how you interfaced with the factory system. What would be interesting is to add a second speaker 180 deg out of phase to do a bit of noise canceling with out adding tomuch weight ?
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    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by CKAVolvo View Post
      Great install but please add more detail of how you handled the crossover points, and how you interfaced with the factory system. What would be interesting is to add a second speaker 180 deg out of phase to do a bit of noise canceling with out adding tomuch weight ?
      I have a pioneer 4200nex, not factory hu. But you can easily splice RCAs to the factory harness at the amp and run the turn-on and rcas from there.

      Crossovers can usually be adjusted on the amp itself, as most sub amps will have a built in adjustable lpf. I can also adjust the crossovers on my hu.

      Why would you cancel out your own speaker output? O.o I'm not sure I understand.



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    16. #14
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CKAVolvo View Post
      Great install but please add more detail of how you handled the crossover points, and how you interfaced with the factory system. What would be interesting is to add a second speaker 180 deg out of phase to do a bit of noise canceling with out adding tomuch weight ?
      Now youíre getting interesting Ron... you need two sub channel speakers operating at approximate the same cut-off point to effectively noise cancel. Unfortunately this requires two sub channel amplifiers and multiple speakers.

      My setup is mildly complicated (not sophisticated) and will partially accomplish noise canceling. I have a JL 700W, 5 channel amp (100W for four main channels + 300W dedicated sub channel), and a 600W dedicated sub amp.

      Ignore the four main channels, the 300W channel is driving two JL 6.5Ē subs in the rear doors (barely fit) with a 50Hz high pass and 300Hz low pass, while the 600W is driving a 10Ē Alpine R-Type with a 30Hz high pass and 100Hz low pass.

      These are 180 degrees out of phase controlled by the Pioneer deck.... itís bot perfect, but out of phase operation definitely eliminates some unwanted cabin noise.


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    17. #15
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      Oh really? How does that cancel out cabin noise? Guess I'll need to do some research now...

      But first, I need to figure out the volume of my cargo tray... And also shove some poly filling in there.

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    18. #16
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aznatama View Post
      I have a pioneer 4200nex, not factory hu. But you can easily splice RCAs to the factory harness at the amp and run the turn-on and rcas from there.

      Crossovers can usually be adjusted on the amp itself, as most sub amps will have a built in adjustable lpf. I can also adjust the crossovers on my hu.

      Why would you cancel out your own speaker output? O.o I'm not sure I understand.



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      The noise canceling concept is simply to enjoy the low end frequency response without addition of noise the muddies the sound stage.


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    19. #17
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aznatama View Post
      Oh really? How does that cancel out cabin noise? Guess I'll need to do some research now...

      But first, I need to figure out the volume of my cargo tray... And also shove some poly filling in there.

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      It doesnít cancel cabin noise, but thatís also a very cool idea.

      https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UyN1TACCbHE






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    20. #18
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      LOL

      But why raping the panel with a hole?

      Subwoofers don't need that

    21. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by Vasquez View Post
      LOL

      But why raping the panel with a hole?

      Subwoofers don't need that
      Because sealing a sub in a box doesn't do anything. I'm using the tray as a box, and the panel is part of that box. A sub still needs an enclosure.

      Besides, it's just a piece of plywood. I wanted to get some mdf to replace it, but the curved shape would've been too difficult to match.

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    22. #20
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      Agreed. A sub needs to breathe. This looks interesting, so I may grab a floor piece from the yard and try something like it.
      Quote Originally Posted by aznatama View Post
      Because sealing a sub in a box doesn't do anything. I'm using the tray as a box, and the panel is part of that box. A sub still needs an enclosure.
      Besides, it's just a piece of plywood. I wanted to get some mdf to replace it, but the curved shape would've been too difficult to match.
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    23. #21
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      This particular sub supposedly acts like a 10", and works well in a 0.8~1.3 cu. ft. sealed box. Perfect for the tray-box. Lol.

      I still need to seal it though.

      I'm thinking that I could use the stock door speaker frames and fit some dayton 8ohm reference speakers in those, and everything I'll work with the stock wiring. =D. But that's a rather large project. =/

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    24. #22
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aznatama View Post
      This particular sub supposedly acts like a 10", and works well in a 0.8~1.3 cu. ft. sealed box. Perfect for the tray-box. Lol.

      I still need to seal it though.

      I'm thinking that I could use the stock door speaker frames and fit some dayton 8ohm reference speakers in those, and everything I'll work with the stock wiring. =D. But that's a rather large project. =/

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      These fit perfectly in the stock door holes.

      http://www.jlaudio.com/6w3v3-4-car-a...-drivers-92145



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    25. #23
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      Quote Originally Posted by Austin V70R View Post
      These fit perfectly in the stock door holes.

      http://www.jlaudio.com/6w3v3-4-car-a...-drivers-92145



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      I'll look into these, but they seem pricey. Will it work with stock amp though? Seems like stock amp might be a bit underpowered for these. Really looking for plug and play on the car - side. I gave a set of speakers that I can mod first before tearing apart the car.



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