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    1. #71
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      Have you done the hot water test with the AAV yet? Drop the coolant and remove the AAV. When cold, you should be able to look down the top port and see a Vee shaped opening (open when cold). Place the AAV in boiling water and you should see that Vee opening close off. If the AAV is permanently stuck open or closed you are never going to be able to get a satisfactory idle. There are rebuild options for the AAV; but, I have no idea how well or if they work. Its possible to retrofit the later style AAV from the K jet or the even later 2 or 3 wire electric valves from the L jet which would require a stand alone processor of some sort.

      When you did your TPS set up, did you check the operation of the auxiliary contacts in the TPS. The D jet manual specifies the status of the contacts depending on the position of the switch. The Djet has a fuel cut function to cut fuel during de acceleration which is controlled by one of those aux switches. I think the other switch has to close to put the D jet into idle control mode.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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    3. #72
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      Here's the AAV that I rebuilt for my 73 B20F.
      https://forums.tbforums.com/showthre...ht=aav+rebuild
      https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=348331
      I haven't actually run it, since the engine is off at the machine shop.
      Steve

    4. #73
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Have you done the hot water test with the AAV yet? Drop the coolant and remove the AAV. When cold, you should be able to look down the top port and see a Vee shaped opening (open when cold). Place the AAV in boiling water and you should see that Vee opening close off. If the AAV is permanently stuck open or closed you are never going to be able to get a satisfactory idle. There are rebuild options for the AAV; but, I have no idea how well or if they work. Its possible to retrofit the later style AAV from the K jet or the even later 2 or 3 wire electric valves from the L jet which would require a stand alone processor of some sort.

      When you did your TPS set up, did you check the operation of the auxiliary contacts in the TPS. The D jet manual specifies the status of the contacts depending on the position of the switch. The Djet has a fuel cut function to cut fuel during de acceleration which is controlled by one of those aux switches. I think the other switch has to close to put the D jet into idle control mode.
      I did not check the contacts. Which repair manual is that in? I've been avoiding dropping coolant but I'm to that point now. She's been smoking a lot so I did a compression test today to see what shape my rings are in or whether I could go after replacing the valve stem seals. I'm not to the point where I can do a b20 Rebuild with all my other car projects so I was hoping to inject a little more life into the 142 until I can focus 100% on it. Here are my plugs with compression numbers.

      #4 is the lowest and #1 and #2 the highest in that assortment.

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      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

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    6. #74
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      Quote Originally Posted by 66Wildcat View Post
      Here's the AAV that I rebuilt for my 73 B20F.
      https://forums.tbforums.com/showthre...ht=aav+rebuild
      https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=348331
      I haven't actually run it, since the engine is off at the machine shop.
      Steve
      Steve mind if I PM you about this?

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      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

    7. #75
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      The fuel injection trouble shooting manual is here, about 1/2 way down the page.

      http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/...in_page_en.php

      If you don't want to drop the coolant level, you can also check the AAV by looking into the top opening of the AAV with a cold engine (Vee should be open) and with a hot engine (Vee should be closed). The primary advantage to the water bath test is that you can watch the Vee to see if it moves smoothly as the water temperature increases.

      Interesting that the cylinders with the highest compression test results have the crappiest looking plugs.

      My 1971 B20E with less than 6000 km since a rebuild runs 163, 166, 165, 168 psi. The engine was rebuilt with an F head gasket (because the gasket kits don't come with E gaskets). If you have an E engine with an E head gasket the 170 - 175 psi numbers would be more in the money. 130 psi is definitely a problem.

      A leak down test will give you more definitive results on engine condition; but, in the absence of having the required equipment, try the dry / wet compression test on the low cylinder. If the 130 psi cylinder cranking pressure increases with a wet test that is a pretty good indication that the rings are worn. Its odd that the plug for the 130 psi cylinder looks so clean. I suppose that it is possible that the oil control ring is working and the compression rings are shot???

      #1 and #2 almost look wet from fuel. Try pulling the injectors out of their retainers and then power up the D jet to get the fuel pump to pressurize (don't start the engine). Check for leakage from the injector tips with the fuel system pressurized.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 04-19-2019 at 10:36 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    8. #76
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      Steve mind if I PM you about this?

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      No problem.
      Steve

    9. #77
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      I'm also baffled by the lowest compression cylinder having the best looking plug while the higher compression cylinders are opposite. You'd think that cylinder #4 if losing oil through the rings would have a plug that showed signs of that.

      I'm not really trying to chase down a full rebuild yet I'd just like her to run a few years longer without running like **** and consuming or leaking so much oil. I'll be honest, this engine wasn't really well cared for and I've never taken the time to properly dig in to see what's up.

      I'm planning on dropping coolant, pulling the aav as well as the injectors. You don't happen to know where you can find new pintle caps do you? Someone recommend this injector repair kit for a b30e which is similar. Also what are your thoughts on ultrasonic cleaning of the injectors?



      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post

      Interesting that the cylinders with the highest compression test results have the crappiest looking plugs.

      A leak down test will give you more definitive results on engine condition; but, in the absence of having the required equipment, try the dry / wet compression test on the low cylinder. If the 130 psi cylinder cranking pressure increases with a wet test that is a pretty good indication that the rings are worn. Its odd that the plug for the 130 psi cylinder looks so clean. I suppose that it is possible that the oil control ring is working and the compression rings are shot???

      #1 and #2 almost look wet from fuel. Try pulling the injectors out of their retainers and then power up the D jet to get the fuel pump to pressurize (don't start the engine). Check for leakage from the injector tips with the fuel system pressurized.


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      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

    10. #78
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      The cap on the end of the injector is not super critical. I believe that it is there primarily to help control deposit build up on the injector tip. I think; but, am not 100% sure that the replacement BA injectors that I installed on my car do not have that cap. I know that the cap on one of the original Bosch injectors on my car had gone missing and the injector worked just fine. Deposit build up on the surface of the injectors does not seem to be a huge problem on the B20E.

      RC and WitchHunter have a good reputation for their mail order injector cleaning service. The up side is that after cleaning they flow test the injectors so you know whether they are flowing equal amounts of fuel. Of course, if they do not flow equal amounts of fuel after cleaning your only course of action is replacement. You would have to check around to see if there are shops local to you that have a good reputation. One of the major problems may be that the Bosch injectors use barbed fuel connections as opposed to the more modern style. Smaller local shops may no be set up to clean a barbed style injector so check that out first.

      Do the remove and check for injector drool test first. If you have an injector with major drooling, all the cleaning in the world may not be able to fix that problem. If you pull the injectors, make sure that you have the replacement rubber seals for the pintle tip. These harden with age and if they are original, once you disturb them they will not reseal. Pintle seals and the larger rubber ring around the injector body (which is less important) are fairly cheap.

      https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...497757&jsn=371
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    11. #79
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      Ok I pulled the fuel rail yesterday and powered up the pump and the injectors were dry..no dribble that I was able to detect. The engine however is just so sludged and full or crusty carbon deposits. I removed the rocker assembly and pushrods and cleaned the top as best as I could but the two rear cylinders are tacky as can be when trying to slide the pushrods in and out. It's like I setting them in a cup of cold molasses.

      I always knew the engine had some wear on it when I bought it but it always hung in there. I'm not so sure I shouldn't just pull it and start working through a proper rebuild. Perhaps valve stem seals, a good decarbonization and proper djet run through with injector service would help but I could also have extremely high oil consumption after I do this.

      She always smoked when idling at a red light and taking off or at first start and decel but never has it had a constant plume after warm up. Pretty sure I ate a quart in one day but she leaks oil also so that's also a contributor.



      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post

      Do the remove and check for injector drool test first. If you have an injector with major drooling, all the cleaning in the world may not be able to fix that problem. If you pull the injectors, make sure that you have the replacement rubber seals for the pintle tip. These harden with age and if they are original, once you disturb them they will not reseal. Pintle seals and the larger rubber ring around the injector body (which is less important) are fairly cheap.

      https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...497757&jsn=371


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      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

    12. #80
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      No leakage from the injectors is good. Sending them out for cleaning won't hurt because that has value regardless of whether you start the engine rebuild now or later.

      Given your description of the engine, I would personally not be inclined to try a valve seal replacement as an interim fix. Save it for if and when you do a more complete rebuild. If you have access to a vernier caliper or a dial gauge with a magnetic mount, it can be useful to measure the valve lift at the valve spring retainer. The original B20 cams and lifters have issues and seriously worn cam lobes and lifters are not uncommon. After adjusting lash, if the lifts are significantly different between valves or out of spec with the service manual that is a sure sign that you need a camshaft / lifter replacement. Cam wear changes the cam timing which can alter the dynamic compression of the engine and uneven wear might contribute to some of your compression test variability.

      If the cam / lifters are toast I would not be inclined to spend too much time diagnosing possible D jet problems. If the cam is worn you can't bodge the D jet into making the engine run better unless you are prepared to start messing with the hard wiring of the controller. Save your D jet refining exercise for an engine that is in reasonable running condition.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    13. #81
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      I got my Dial gauge and Megnetic mount at Harbor Freight ( for those of us in the USA) to measure my lift, cheap and cheerfull and good enough to confirm that the Cam was not the issue.

      Also, I just dropped 4 BA injectors in my 1800ES and they worked like a charm. I was going to send the Bosch injectors out for a clean, but at 50 bucks a piece and free shipping ( Summit Link below) the new BA were worth the price of admission.

      The 1800ES had some stumbling issues but instantly ran like a champ and 600 RPM higher at idle so ... I had to run through the complete D-jet idle set up protocol again.


      Also sometimes you can get an extra few % off with a CODE, or new account discount ....

      EDIT, Forgot to add link

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...lvo/model/1800

      And you have to order the o-rings separately

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bck-158-0021
      Last edited by scaramoucheii; 04-21-2019 at 09:07 PM.
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    14. #82
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    15. #83
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      I just realized from your photographs that you removed the injector holders from the head rather than removed the injectors from the holders. In reality probably easier to do because the twist retainer rings on the holders can be a major pain. However, now rather that the pintel seal on the injector you must replace the large diameter rubber O ring that fits between the base of the injector holder and the head.

      Were there phenolic washers installed between the injector holder and the head on the hold down bolts for the injector holders? I don't see evidence of them in the photos; but, perhaps you removed them. The D jet equipped B20s suffer from a hot restart problem. Heat soak to the injector body from a hot engine cause reduced flow through the injectors resulting in a very lean AFR on restart which can make for no restarts or incredibly rough operation after a restart. The hotter the engine and ambient temperature the worse the problem. The problem usually fixes itself after 3 - 5 minutes because fuel flow through the injector cools the injector and normal flow rates resume - provided you can get the engine started. In extreme cases the engine will not restart until things have cooled off.

      This problem was not unique to B20s. Other engines, particularly in-line engines with the intakes located above the exhaust manifold are prone to this. Volvo's solution to the problem was to install phenolic washers underneath the injector holder which created a space between the head and the holder reducing heat transfer to the injector holder from the head. The installation of the phenolic washers requires a larger cross section O ring under the injection holder to seal it, otherwise it will leak air like crazy. I think the phenolic washers started appearing in late 1971 or early 1972. Volvo did not issue a recall to fix the hot restart problem. I think the parts got retrofitted if you complained enough to your dealership because there are some '71 and '72 cars that have them and some that don't. My '71 did not.

      So, you are going to have to replace the O rings under the holders now that you have removed the holders. Just make sure that you get the correct O rings because both the thin O rings (no phenolic washer) and fat O rings (for phenolic washer) are available from the likes of VP and CVI. If you didn't have the washers I suggest you get them and the matching O rings because they do improve hot restarts.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    16. #84
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      Quote Originally Posted by scaramoucheii View Post
      Also, I just dropped 4 BA injectors in my 1800ES and they worked like a charm. I was going to send the Bosch injectors out for a clean, but at 50 bucks a piece and free shipping ( Summit Link below) the new BA were worth the price of admission.

      The 1800ES had some stumbling issues but instantly ran like a champ and 600 RPM higher at idle so ... I had to run through the complete D-jet idle set up protocol again.
      Glad that the BAs worked out for you. I can't figure out why some people claim that they do not work on the B20E and B20F.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    17. #85
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Glad that the BAs worked out for you. I can't figure out why some people claim that they do not work on the B20E and B20F.
      No idea either ... I did notice that the tip of the BA is a little longer (~ 1/8"), but that simply means it protrudes into the head and intake flow that much more, no clearance issue there.

      I used some High Temperature Silicon Grease on the o-rings and they slid right into the injector holders. I throughly cleaned the Locking ring, and applied a little of the grease to the shim rings and locking lobes, and it only required a little application of the plumbers plyers to get the final 1/4" inch of a turn to lock the clamping rings into position. (I could almost hand tighten them into position and may have if not for a bit of errant grease) Which is also easy to identify as the notches for the injector connector all then line up neatly.

      The car still has a very slight stumble when stone cold and you put your foot down hard (here in Florida that is 60-70ºf) But once the engine warms up that goes away, So I may take the injector holders off and replace those o-rings as I may have a small vacume leak there until the head and injector holders warm up (Guess I should have done that at the same time but forgot)

      As a note, i DO have the phonelic washers there, so is there a different part number for a thicker Injector Holder Seal ?
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    18. #86
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      Quote Originally Posted by scaramoucheii View Post

      The car still has a very slight stumble when stone cold and you put your foot down hard (here in Florida that is 60-70ºf) But once the engine warms up that goes away, So I may take the injector holders off and replace those o-rings as I may have a small vacume leak there until the head and injector holders warm up (Guess I should have done that at the same time but forgot)

      As a note, i DO have the phonelic washers there, so is there a different part number for a thicker Injector Holder Seal ?
      Silicon grease is the ticket for easing assembly. Things slide nicely and it helps to preserve the rubber. I have become lazy and just use dielectric tune up grease for the job - which is silicon grease in a tube with 'Dielectric Tune Up Lubricant' printed on it and marked up in price about 250% compared to generic silicon grease..

      Check your coolant temp sensor resistance. The coolant temperature determines the amount of warm up enrichment the engine gets and if the sensor resistance is lower than spec it may be cutting off enrichment too early resulting in unhappy operation until the engine is up to full operating temperature. If you want to 'add in' some enrichment you can experiment with adding a bit of resistance into the temperature sensor circuit which fools the controller into thinking that the engine is cooler than it actually is. I remember somebody doing this; but, I can't remember how much they added. You don't want to go overboard because you could end up adding enrichment when the engine is at full operating temperature which would be bad for fuel consumption and smelly to boot.

      Yes, the fat O rings have a different part #. 960218 for the original thin O ring, 960168 for the later fat O ring. However, be careful as some vendors sell the later part under the original number treating it as a replacement part # which isn't unless you install the phenolic washers. CVI only lists the later O ring. Skandix lists both of the parts and they have a little diagram clearly showing that 960168 is used when the insulating washers are installed. When I did my engine rebuild I had an Elring gasket set and it came with both versions of the O ring plus the phenolic washers. Confused the hell out of me until Phil S. or somebody enlightened me about the phenolic washer retrofit on the B20E engines.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    19. #87
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      Hey all,

      No real update as I have been in the middle of a temporary move and am working to build a house that can house all the cars and provide enough space to also have working projects ongoing. I have been ordering trim pieces, etc while everything is on hold. I still need to get my injectors sent off for a rebuild but I will also more than likely pull the entire engine once I get to the new house. In the meantime I picked up my third and final bucket list car to add to the ones I have.


      74487081_1337036883127618_6019201192792424448_n.jpg
      73399946_1337036866460953_6799142145367212032_n.jpg

    20. #88
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      Sweet Sonnet!
      Smallest hood opening I ever saw.
      "The Real IPD" - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      2007 Passion Red/Gobi VRgt; 2005 Silver/Beige Leather S60 2.5T AWD; 2002 Silver/Off black leather V70XC
      Past: 1999 Tropic Blue/Green/Oak leather V70 (NAa); Mom traded 1975 Maroon/Maroon leather 164E

    21. #89
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      YES! Incredibly small. May look at the hood clip kit that allows the entire front clip to hinge forwards like the Sonett II.

    22. #90
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      That looks like a III with the Ford V4 engine? Never really noticed the odd door handles before.

      I expect that finding replacement parts for the Sonett is going make the 140 look like a Chevy for parts availability in comparison.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    23. #91
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      You are correct. It's a '74 III with the V4 (4-stroke). Sheet metal parts are available from Ashcraft in the PNW as well as full engine and transaxle parts. The issue they share with the 142 is anything interior or exterior trim as well as fuel tank and some brake parts.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      That looks like a III with the Ford V4 engine? Never really noticed the odd door handles before.

      I expect that finding replacement parts for the Sonett is going make the 140 look like a Chevy for parts availability in comparison.

    24. #92
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      Is there a particular type of connector to get for these if you need to build a harness from scratch?

      Quote Originally Posted by scaramoucheii View Post
      I got my Dial gauge and Megnetic mount at Harbor Freight ( for those of us in the USA) to measure my lift, cheap and cheerfull and good enough to confirm that the Cam was not the issue.

      Also, I just dropped 4 BA injectors in my 1800ES and they worked like a charm. I was going to send the Bosch injectors out for a clean, but at 50 bucks a piece and free shipping ( Summit Link below) the new BA were worth the price of admission.

      The 1800ES had some stumbling issues but instantly ran like a champ and 600 RPM higher at idle so ... I had to run through the complete D-jet idle set up protocol again.


      Also sometimes you can get an extra few % off with a CODE, or new account discount ....

      EDIT, Forgot to add link

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...lvo/model/1800

      And you have to order the o-rings separately

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bck-158-0021
      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

    25. #93
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      Progress is really slow when you have four old cars.. I'm hoping that once I move into a larger space and sell my house that I can be a bit more active here. I scored a B30E Djet setup today (Head, fuel rail, injector mounts and caps without the injectors themselves, intake manifold and the AAV). I am missing the harness as well as TPS, cold air injector and some other tidbits but for the most part it's intact. I'll be following the same path for Megasquirt with the B30E as I plan to do with my B20E in the 142. Perhaps having them on the same platform will simplify things in the long run.

      Some things I need to look into are if the 850 TPS that @142guy used on his B20E build will also work on the B30E throttle body and if the Yoshifab CAS setup is also applicable for the B30. I can't see why it wouldn't but better safe than sorry. I also have some 24v --> 12v work to do to be able to run the B30 injection on the big Volvo. As always sourcing parts for these various oddball vehicles and being OCD as I am means that some of this stuff just sits while parts are sourced.

      81973216_459234871425322_8033063194123567104_n.jpg
      81147731_756786184826747_3622579265184202752_n.jpg
      Last edited by Brandom; 01-02-2020 at 04:04 PM.
      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

    26. #94
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      Is there a particular type of connector to get for these if you need to build a harness from scratch?
      You can definitely find the correct internal terminals for rebuilding all the D Jet connectors. This option is rather pricey

      https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Cosse-Bosch-...4AAOSwsu9agAr~

      If you search the web a bit, there is at least one D Jetronic specialist site that sells replacement parts. There are commonly available terminals (Molex) that look correct and sort of fit; but, don' t fit in the plug body securely. Best to avoid if you can. You want to reuse your plastic plug bodies because replacements for those are even harder to find than the terminals. The old terminal can be removed from the plug body by using the smallest jewellers screwdriver to depress the retention tang allowing it to slip out the back. Replacement rubber boots are available but are $$$$$. I made my own replacement rubber boots with stretchable silicon rubber tubing and some heat shrink. I got the silicone rubber from McMaster Carr; but, I think Jeggs or Speedway or the other place sells the tubing. I picked up some correct terminals and plug bodies about 5 years ago on a clear-out from RockAuto that were branded Beck Arnley. I might still have the box and part # in my spare parts stash in the garage. If you can't find a source for the parts, let me know and I can check the parts stash to see if I have a part #. Might give you a place to start looking. The B-A terminals and bodies were a perfect fit.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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      While the B30 is sitting around, I suggest you pop the injectors out. You have a decision to make. If the B30 injectors are the Bosch blue body 035 injectors (like on the B20E) then you can get the Beck Arnley replacements that Scaramoucheii mentioned and that are perfect replacements. I picked mine up when Rock Auto was selling them for less than $50 Cdn a pop. That train has left the station; but, if you search you can still find some reasonable prices. If you don't want to spend the $ for the BA replacements, pack up the Bosch injectors and send them to RC Fuel Injection or WhichHunter to have them cleaned and flow tested. At least you will know whether they work or not - you will never get the MS to work if you have injectors that are stuck (open or closed - doesn't matter)
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    28. #96
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      So the issue I'm going to have is while I have a harness for the 142 when I rebuild it I don't have a harness for the B30e so I'll have to try and source one (possible but not certain) or fabricate a new one myself. Also, my 142 harness is suspect but at least I have the clips and boots. The boots are a bit ratty however.

      Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

    29. #97
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      So the issue I'm going to have is while I have a harness for the 142 when I rebuild it I don't have a harness for the B30e so I'll have to try and source one (possible but not certain) or fabricate a new one myself. Also, my 142 harness is suspect but at least I have the clips and boots. The boots are a bit ratty however.

      Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
      Try Hi Performance Auto in Torrance CA. They do have a web site (which I always have trouble finding); but, half off their stuff for vintage Volvos never seems to make it to the website listing. Contact them and they may be able to source a B30E D jet harness for you. They may also be able to provide you with new terminals, plug bodies and the rubber boots. If you do get the correct terminals, make sure you get the correct crimping tool to go with them. They are tiny open barrel connectors and those $6 crimpers from the big box stores don't work on them (or really anything for that matter).

      If you are going D jet, unless you can get a harness in very good shape I would be inclined to build from scratch providing you can source new terminals and plug bodies. By now, most original D jet harnesses are suffering from insulation deterioration on all the exposed ends and you are into a major patch job.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    30. #98
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      Good idea. I will reach out to them. Another item I was not able to secure besides the harness were the actual injectors so while I have the 142e injectors I do not have the 164e set that was with the head, intake and other assortment of goodies. It's not a big deal though as I am ok sourcing Beck Arnley ones when the time comes. Since the B30e throttle body can be removed from the intake whereas the B20e manifold would require modification to do so I believe I may adapt an LS throttle body that has IAC and TPS already built in. Many of these are a drive by cable but there are a few that can also be found with drive by wire if you wanted to tackle that. I really haven't put much thought into where I will mount the MAP sensor. While the 142 has the original MAP sensor the original 164 was missing it. Since these are hens teeth anyways I'd rather just use a more readily available MAP.

      There is a possibility that unlike the 142 I may want to boost the big Volvo. The B30a makes less power in the c303 than the B20e made in stock form with the Swedish military de-tuning the engine to around 120HP or less so I'd like to have boost at some point down the road.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Try Hi Performance Auto in Torrance CA. They do have a web site (which I always have trouble finding); but, half off their stuff for vintage Volvos never seems to make it to the website listing. Contact them and they may be able to source a B30E D jet harness for you. They may also be able to provide you with new terminals, plug bodies and the rubber boots. If you do get the correct terminals, make sure you get the correct crimping tool to go with them. They are tiny open barrel connectors and those $6 crimpers from the big box stores don't work on them (or really anything for that matter).

      If you are going D jet, unless you can get a harness in very good shape I would be inclined to build from scratch providing you can source new terminals and plug bodies. By now, most original D jet harnesses are suffering from insulation deterioration on all the exposed ends and you are into a major patch job.
      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

    31. #99
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      Be careful with adapting a different throttle body. A larger diameter throttle body will cause the manifold air pressure to rise quicker than a small throttle body when the throttle is opened. This can make for very touchy / difficult operation at low throttle openings making the vehicle difficult to drive in situations such as stop and go traffic. The fast increase in MAP can also result in transition issues as the operating point instantly jumps vertically in the fuel map - something that delta TPS based enrichment won't fix (I have never had to try delta MAP enrichment).

      I know we are talking B30, not B20; but, I have found that the B20 requires very little delta TPS enrichment to get a smooth transition during acceleration. Don't mess it up by oversizing the throttle body.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    32. #100
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      I have sourced connectors from Digi-Key in the past, They are the correct size and with the plastic back shells fit nicely into the D-Jet components, of course you need to source the original rubber boots if you want the stock look, but I just used some heat shrink. (LINK TO THREAD BELOW)

      You do need to be conscious of polarity as with these connectors and back shells you you can mess up ....

      Also I have installed the Beck Arnly Injectors on my 1800ES and they work great, Got mine from Summitt Racing for about $55

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...=1#post6540626
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    33. #101
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      Brandom,
      I have a set of connectors & boots as well as an old harness that I'd be willing to send your way for the right price. PM me to discuss.
      The connector for the distributor is NLA and you would need the ECU connector as well, that is why I offer the old harness.
      Now, for $500, you can order a brand new harness from VP Autoparts. http://212.247.61.152/US/main.aspx?p...e&artno=688360
      That's what I did for my 73.
      Let me know.
      Steve

    34. #102
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      Just offering up an opinion.

      If you are planning on converting to Megasquirt II or any aftermarket EFI, do not spend significant dollars for a complete D jet wiring harness. The only connectors on the original D jet harness that you will use are the injectors and the engine coolant and air temperature sensors (if you retain the original air temperature sensor location which I recommend against). Everything else will be incompatible / unused. You can 'repurpose' some of the wires such as the TPS (after you remove the D jet connector and re terminate with the correct connector and reuse some of the distributor contact wiring for a CAS sensor (ditto on having to change the connectors). Modern EFI systems ground switch the injectors where as the D jet switches the injectors on the + 12 v side. Net effect the wiring harness connections have to be modified requiring harness modifications and the addition of injector resistors on the injector +12v supply (do not attempt to make use of the MS II injector PW current limiting function - too much agony).
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    35. #103
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 66Wildcat View Post
      Brandom,

      Now, for $500, you can order a brand new harness from VP Autoparts. http://212.247.61.152/US/main.aspx?p...e&artno=688360

      Steve
      more like $577, $761, or $772, remember he's looking for the 6 cyl version. I have no idea what the differenace is between the 3 options, but a quick call to VP should be enough

      http://212.247.61.152/US/main.aspx?p...tno=1401051702
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

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