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    1. #71
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      Have you done the hot water test with the AAV yet? Drop the coolant and remove the AAV. When cold, you should be able to look down the top port and see a Vee shaped opening (open when cold). Place the AAV in boiling water and you should see that Vee opening close off. If the AAV is permanently stuck open or closed you are never going to be able to get a satisfactory idle. There are rebuild options for the AAV; but, I have no idea how well or if they work. Its possible to retrofit the later style AAV from the K jet or the even later 2 or 3 wire electric valves from the L jet which would require a stand alone processor of some sort.

      When you did your TPS set up, did you check the operation of the auxiliary contacts in the TPS. The D jet manual specifies the status of the contacts depending on the position of the switch. The Djet has a fuel cut function to cut fuel during de acceleration which is controlled by one of those aux switches. I think the other switch has to close to put the D jet into idle control mode.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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    3. #72
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      Here's the AAV that I rebuilt for my 73 B20F.
      https://forums.tbforums.com/showthre...ht=aav+rebuild
      https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=348331
      I haven't actually run it, since the engine is off at the machine shop.
      Steve

    4. #73
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Have you done the hot water test with the AAV yet? Drop the coolant and remove the AAV. When cold, you should be able to look down the top port and see a Vee shaped opening (open when cold). Place the AAV in boiling water and you should see that Vee opening close off. If the AAV is permanently stuck open or closed you are never going to be able to get a satisfactory idle. There are rebuild options for the AAV; but, I have no idea how well or if they work. Its possible to retrofit the later style AAV from the K jet or the even later 2 or 3 wire electric valves from the L jet which would require a stand alone processor of some sort.

      When you did your TPS set up, did you check the operation of the auxiliary contacts in the TPS. The D jet manual specifies the status of the contacts depending on the position of the switch. The Djet has a fuel cut function to cut fuel during de acceleration which is controlled by one of those aux switches. I think the other switch has to close to put the D jet into idle control mode.
      I did not check the contacts. Which repair manual is that in? I've been avoiding dropping coolant but I'm to that point now. She's been smoking a lot so I did a compression test today to see what shape my rings are in or whether I could go after replacing the valve stem seals. I'm not to the point where I can do a b20 Rebuild with all my other car projects so I was hoping to inject a little more life into the 142 until I can focus 100% on it. Here are my plugs with compression numbers.

      #4 is the lowest and #1 and #2 the highest in that assortment.

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    6. #74
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      Quote Originally Posted by 66Wildcat View Post
      Here's the AAV that I rebuilt for my 73 B20F.
      https://forums.tbforums.com/showthre...ht=aav+rebuild
      https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=348331
      I haven't actually run it, since the engine is off at the machine shop.
      Steve
      Steve mind if I PM you about this?

      Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

    7. #75
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      The fuel injection trouble shooting manual is here, about 1/2 way down the page.

      http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/...in_page_en.php

      If you don't want to drop the coolant level, you can also check the AAV by looking into the top opening of the AAV with a cold engine (Vee should be open) and with a hot engine (Vee should be closed). The primary advantage to the water bath test is that you can watch the Vee to see if it moves smoothly as the water temperature increases.

      Interesting that the cylinders with the highest compression test results have the crappiest looking plugs.

      My 1971 B20E with less than 6000 km since a rebuild runs 163, 166, 165, 168 psi. The engine was rebuilt with an F head gasket (because the gasket kits don't come with E gaskets). If you have an E engine with an E head gasket the 170 - 175 psi numbers would be more in the money. 130 psi is definitely a problem.

      A leak down test will give you more definitive results on engine condition; but, in the absence of having the required equipment, try the dry / wet compression test on the low cylinder. If the 130 psi cylinder cranking pressure increases with a wet test that is a pretty good indication that the rings are worn. Its odd that the plug for the 130 psi cylinder looks so clean. I suppose that it is possible that the oil control ring is working and the compression rings are shot???

      #1 and #2 almost look wet from fuel. Try pulling the injectors out of their retainers and then power up the D jet to get the fuel pump to pressurize (don't start the engine). Check for leakage from the injector tips with the fuel system pressurized.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 04-19-2019 at 10:36 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    8. #76
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      Steve mind if I PM you about this?

      Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
      No problem.
      Steve

    9. #77
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      I'm also baffled by the lowest compression cylinder having the best looking plug while the higher compression cylinders are opposite. You'd think that cylinder #4 if losing oil through the rings would have a plug that showed signs of that.

      I'm not really trying to chase down a full rebuild yet I'd just like her to run a few years longer without running like **** and consuming or leaking so much oil. I'll be honest, this engine wasn't really well cared for and I've never taken the time to properly dig in to see what's up.

      I'm planning on dropping coolant, pulling the aav as well as the injectors. You don't happen to know where you can find new pintle caps do you? Someone recommend this injector repair kit for a b30e which is similar. Also what are your thoughts on ultrasonic cleaning of the injectors?



      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post

      Interesting that the cylinders with the highest compression test results have the crappiest looking plugs.

      A leak down test will give you more definitive results on engine condition; but, in the absence of having the required equipment, try the dry / wet compression test on the low cylinder. If the 130 psi cylinder cranking pressure increases with a wet test that is a pretty good indication that the rings are worn. Its odd that the plug for the 130 psi cylinder looks so clean. I suppose that it is possible that the oil control ring is working and the compression rings are shot???

      #1 and #2 almost look wet from fuel. Try pulling the injectors out of their retainers and then power up the D jet to get the fuel pump to pressurize (don't start the engine). Check for leakage from the injector tips with the fuel system pressurized.


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    10. #78
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      The cap on the end of the injector is not super critical. I believe that it is there primarily to help control deposit build up on the injector tip. I think; but, am not 100% sure that the replacement BA injectors that I installed on my car do not have that cap. I know that the cap on one of the original Bosch injectors on my car had gone missing and the injector worked just fine. Deposit build up on the surface of the injectors does not seem to be a huge problem on the B20E.

      RC and WitchHunter have a good reputation for their mail order injector cleaning service. The up side is that after cleaning they flow test the injectors so you know whether they are flowing equal amounts of fuel. Of course, if they do not flow equal amounts of fuel after cleaning your only course of action is replacement. You would have to check around to see if there are shops local to you that have a good reputation. One of the major problems may be that the Bosch injectors use barbed fuel connections as opposed to the more modern style. Smaller local shops may no be set up to clean a barbed style injector so check that out first.

      Do the remove and check for injector drool test first. If you have an injector with major drooling, all the cleaning in the world may not be able to fix that problem. If you pull the injectors, make sure that you have the replacement rubber seals for the pintle tip. These harden with age and if they are original, once you disturb them they will not reseal. Pintle seals and the larger rubber ring around the injector body (which is less important) are fairly cheap.

      https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...497757&jsn=371
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    11. #79
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      Ok I pulled the fuel rail yesterday and powered up the pump and the injectors were dry..no dribble that I was able to detect. The engine however is just so sludged and full or crusty carbon deposits. I removed the rocker assembly and pushrods and cleaned the top as best as I could but the two rear cylinders are tacky as can be when trying to slide the pushrods in and out. It's like I setting them in a cup of cold molasses.

      I always knew the engine had some wear on it when I bought it but it always hung in there. I'm not so sure I shouldn't just pull it and start working through a proper rebuild. Perhaps valve stem seals, a good decarbonization and proper djet run through with injector service would help but I could also have extremely high oil consumption after I do this.

      She always smoked when idling at a red light and taking off or at first start and decel but never has it had a constant plume after warm up. Pretty sure I ate a quart in one day but she leaks oil also so that's also a contributor.



      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post

      Do the remove and check for injector drool test first. If you have an injector with major drooling, all the cleaning in the world may not be able to fix that problem. If you pull the injectors, make sure that you have the replacement rubber seals for the pintle tip. These harden with age and if they are original, once you disturb them they will not reseal. Pintle seals and the larger rubber ring around the injector body (which is less important) are fairly cheap.

      https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...497757&jsn=371


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    12. #80
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      No leakage from the injectors is good. Sending them out for cleaning won't hurt because that has value regardless of whether you start the engine rebuild now or later.

      Given your description of the engine, I would personally not be inclined to try a valve seal replacement as an interim fix. Save it for if and when you do a more complete rebuild. If you have access to a vernier caliper or a dial gauge with a magnetic mount, it can be useful to measure the valve lift at the valve spring retainer. The original B20 cams and lifters have issues and seriously worn cam lobes and lifters are not uncommon. After adjusting lash, if the lifts are significantly different between valves or out of spec with the service manual that is a sure sign that you need a camshaft / lifter replacement. Cam wear changes the cam timing which can alter the dynamic compression of the engine and uneven wear might contribute to some of your compression test variability.

      If the cam / lifters are toast I would not be inclined to spend too much time diagnosing possible D jet problems. If the cam is worn you can't bodge the D jet into making the engine run better unless you are prepared to start messing with the hard wiring of the controller. Save your D jet refining exercise for an engine that is in reasonable running condition.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    13. #81
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      I got my Dial gauge and Megnetic mount at Harbor Freight ( for those of us in the USA) to measure my lift, cheap and cheerfull and good enough to confirm that the Cam was not the issue.

      Also, I just dropped 4 BA injectors in my 1800ES and they worked like a charm. I was going to send the Bosch injectors out for a clean, but at 50 bucks a piece and free shipping ( Summit Link below) the new BA were worth the price of admission.

      The 1800ES had some stumbling issues but instantly ran like a champ and 600 RPM higher at idle so ... I had to run through the complete D-jet idle set up protocol again.


      Also sometimes you can get an extra few % off with a CODE, or new account discount ....

      EDIT, Forgot to add link

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...lvo/model/1800

      And you have to order the o-rings separately

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bck-158-0021
      Last edited by scaramoucheii; 04-21-2019 at 09:07 PM.
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    14. #82
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    15. #83
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      I just realized from your photographs that you removed the injector holders from the head rather than removed the injectors from the holders. In reality probably easier to do because the twist retainer rings on the holders can be a major pain. However, now rather that the pintel seal on the injector you must replace the large diameter rubber O ring that fits between the base of the injector holder and the head.

      Were there phenolic washers installed between the injector holder and the head on the hold down bolts for the injector holders? I don't see evidence of them in the photos; but, perhaps you removed them. The D jet equipped B20s suffer from a hot restart problem. Heat soak to the injector body from a hot engine cause reduced flow through the injectors resulting in a very lean AFR on restart which can make for no restarts or incredibly rough operation after a restart. The hotter the engine and ambient temperature the worse the problem. The problem usually fixes itself after 3 - 5 minutes because fuel flow through the injector cools the injector and normal flow rates resume - provided you can get the engine started. In extreme cases the engine will not restart until things have cooled off.

      This problem was not unique to B20s. Other engines, particularly in-line engines with the intakes located above the exhaust manifold are prone to this. Volvo's solution to the problem was to install phenolic washers underneath the injector holder which created a space between the head and the holder reducing heat transfer to the injector holder from the head. The installation of the phenolic washers requires a larger cross section O ring under the injection holder to seal it, otherwise it will leak air like crazy. I think the phenolic washers started appearing in late 1971 or early 1972. Volvo did not issue a recall to fix the hot restart problem. I think the parts got retrofitted if you complained enough to your dealership because there are some '71 and '72 cars that have them and some that don't. My '71 did not.

      So, you are going to have to replace the O rings under the holders now that you have removed the holders. Just make sure that you get the correct O rings because both the thin O rings (no phenolic washer) and fat O rings (for phenolic washer) are available from the likes of VP and CVI. If you didn't have the washers I suggest you get them and the matching O rings because they do improve hot restarts.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    16. #84
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      Quote Originally Posted by scaramoucheii View Post
      Also, I just dropped 4 BA injectors in my 1800ES and they worked like a charm. I was going to send the Bosch injectors out for a clean, but at 50 bucks a piece and free shipping ( Summit Link below) the new BA were worth the price of admission.

      The 1800ES had some stumbling issues but instantly ran like a champ and 600 RPM higher at idle so ... I had to run through the complete D-jet idle set up protocol again.
      Glad that the BAs worked out for you. I can't figure out why some people claim that they do not work on the B20E and B20F.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    17. #85
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Glad that the BAs worked out for you. I can't figure out why some people claim that they do not work on the B20E and B20F.
      No idea either ... I did notice that the tip of the BA is a little longer (~ 1/8"), but that simply means it protrudes into the head and intake flow that much more, no clearance issue there.

      I used some High Temperature Silicon Grease on the o-rings and they slid right into the injector holders. I throughly cleaned the Locking ring, and applied a little of the grease to the shim rings and locking lobes, and it only required a little application of the plumbers plyers to get the final 1/4" inch of a turn to lock the clamping rings into position. (I could almost hand tighten them into position and may have if not for a bit of errant grease) Which is also easy to identify as the notches for the injector connector all then line up neatly.

      The car still has a very slight stumble when stone cold and you put your foot down hard (here in Florida that is 60-70ºf) But once the engine warms up that goes away, So I may take the injector holders off and replace those o-rings as I may have a small vacume leak there until the head and injector holders warm up (Guess I should have done that at the same time but forgot)

      As a note, i DO have the phonelic washers there, so is there a different part number for a thicker Injector Holder Seal ?
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    18. #86
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      Quote Originally Posted by scaramoucheii View Post

      The car still has a very slight stumble when stone cold and you put your foot down hard (here in Florida that is 60-70ºf) But once the engine warms up that goes away, So I may take the injector holders off and replace those o-rings as I may have a small vacume leak there until the head and injector holders warm up (Guess I should have done that at the same time but forgot)

      As a note, i DO have the phonelic washers there, so is there a different part number for a thicker Injector Holder Seal ?
      Silicon grease is the ticket for easing assembly. Things slide nicely and it helps to preserve the rubber. I have become lazy and just use dielectric tune up grease for the job - which is silicon grease in a tube with 'Dielectric Tune Up Lubricant' printed on it and marked up in price about 250% compared to generic silicon grease..

      Check your coolant temp sensor resistance. The coolant temperature determines the amount of warm up enrichment the engine gets and if the sensor resistance is lower than spec it may be cutting off enrichment too early resulting in unhappy operation until the engine is up to full operating temperature. If you want to 'add in' some enrichment you can experiment with adding a bit of resistance into the temperature sensor circuit which fools the controller into thinking that the engine is cooler than it actually is. I remember somebody doing this; but, I can't remember how much they added. You don't want to go overboard because you could end up adding enrichment when the engine is at full operating temperature which would be bad for fuel consumption and smelly to boot.

      Yes, the fat O rings have a different part #. 960218 for the original thin O ring, 960168 for the later fat O ring. However, be careful as some vendors sell the later part under the original number treating it as a replacement part # which isn't unless you install the phenolic washers. CVI only lists the later O ring. Skandix lists both of the parts and they have a little diagram clearly showing that 960168 is used when the insulating washers are installed. When I did my engine rebuild I had an Elring gasket set and it came with both versions of the O ring plus the phenolic washers. Confused the hell out of me until Phil S. or somebody enlightened me about the phenolic washer retrofit on the B20E engines.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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