Ok a Build thread it is (1971 142e)
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    1. #1
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      Ok a Build thread it is (1971 142e)

      Ok so I guess I am going to consolidate my 142 into a single thread. I'll break it down into categories of what I want to achieve. There is no time constraint per se so that's a plus.

      Fortunately I can wait out any technical difficulties as they pop up. So here we go.

      Suspension


      I've been dabbling between a higher Rallye stance (as some of you may have seen) and the other half of me wants a slightly lowered stance. I can say this much. I want the wheels to have a flush appearance with the rear fender lip and wide steel wheels with a negative offset. I have two examples that I can cite for each of these options.

      For Rallye my options are:

      - +50mm rear 5" coils
      - +25mm front 5" coils
      - Height adjustable spring perches
      - Adjustable Panhard
      - Adjustable Torque rods
      - IPD Sways (already on vehicle)
      - +50mm GAZ adjustable rear shocks
      - +25mm GAZ adjustable front shocks
      - Weller steelies 16x8 (5x108) ET 0 to -10
      - Cooper Cobra P235/55R16 OWL
      - Rebuilt and upgraded where possible remaining suspension components

      Example (this vehicle is +50mm out back and stock height up front on P235/60R14):

      Screenshot_20180327-152111.jpg
      Screenshot_20180327-152055.jpg

      For lowered option:

      - -60mm rear 5" coils
      - -100mm front 5" coils
      - Adjustable panhard
      - Adjustable torque rods
      - Height adjustable spring perches
      - IPD Sways (already on vehicle)
      - GAZ adjustable rear shocks (travel undetermined as of yet)
      - GAZ adjustable front shocks (travel undetermined as of yet)
      - Weller steelies 16x8 (5x108) ET -20 to -30'ish
      - Undetermined brand P205/55R16 (would love OWL but not sure this size has OWL options)
      - Rebuilt and upgraded where possible remaining suspension components

      Example (P195/50R16 lowered 60mm rear / 100mm front):








      ECU / Electronics / Upgrades / Mods

      I'm way past my lower appendage in trying to figure out the electronics and how I want that to play out. So far this is what I am planning:

      - Rallye cluster (being rebuilt by Roger) with custom warning lights + Lambda and split out turn signals
      - Two aircraft instruments that monitor oil temp / ambient air temp / Duel Fuel-Air ratio
      - Arduino Rallye Cluster control including the aircraft instruments
      - Megasquirt ECU (MS3X)
      - Speedhut GPS speedbox for Speedo (custom made speedo with cluster end Volvo and Speedbox end GM or Ford)
      - Bluetooth / Aux / preamp output modified Volvo FM / 8-Track radio (yes I want 8-track options )
      - Raspberry Pi Android Auto with 7" Touchscreen
      - Front / Rear Fogs with dash indicators
      - Heated Seats
      - Rear shelf A/C (Most likely vintage air)
      - Convenience turn signals
      - Backup camera
      - TPMS
      - RFID door lock/unlock and immobilizer
      - EPS steering column
      - Intermittent wipers (maybe...maybe)

      This is how I see the layout for this.

      Engine sensors --> Megasquirt --> Arduino --> Gauges --> Pi (another option being GPIO thanks to 142Guy)

      Only reason I want to send that data to pi is to have options such as having additional engine data present if I need it. There's a guy out there who has a python script taking engine data and basically assembling it into a trip computer of sorts.. I'd like to have that data available even if I don't use it immediately.

      Pi will handle audio, GPS, Backup camera and whatever else I'm able to do.


      Engine / Transmission

      Definitely looking to get as much as I can out of it without it being bad mannered. I'll even look into going the Turbo route if need be. As of right now all I know I'm set on:

      - ITB setup
      - Engine balancing and blueprint
      - Possible turbo / ITB setup (Turbo seems taboo this side of the pond but Swedes seem to like that option... and I trust the people who actually made the car ).
      - If I can work out satisfactory power (180 hp) going the NA route then that is what I would prefer.
      - I will probably keep the M41 since any other option out there will compromise the long throw shift and I love having a long throw in this car too much to sacrifice that. It just adds to the charm IMHO.

      FYI I am aware that the B20 takes money to achieve high 100's in HP.. This is a known already!

      Body

      - Full size spare mounted on vintage Volvo roof rack for the Amazon and 140 series (I have the rack already but plan on only using the mounts and having a shop make me a sturdier variation).
      - Two one up bike trays for the roof rack.
      - Sliding rag top (75/25 at this point)
      - Antenna delete
      - Spare tire well delete (both sides)
      - '67 to '70 grill
      - Front corner turn signal delete (just incorporate turns into front parking lamp and each individual side marker)
      - Whatever body work and the necessary paint job. (only rust is in passenger spare tire well)
      - Front Fogs / Rear Fog

      Interior

      - Custom center console integrated into where the fuse panel door sits (or better yet flies off after every bump). Will house A/C controls, hazards, defrost, heated seat controls and the 7" touchscreen...and perhaps an emblem of sorts. A/C will be cool only so only a fan speed switch and a temp switch.
      - Re-upholstery (unsure on how I want to address seats). Not planning on replacing them but I am open to using a different grade of leather (love me some bison) and perhaps a sportier cushion / upholstering?
      - Carpet
      - Moto Lita 16" Dished Mk III (medium brown wood)
      - Sound deadening
      - Finished trunk

      And a few obligatory pics









      That's about it for now!
      -Brandon

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    3. #2
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      With that first post being hopelessly long.. I do want to start with talking about door locking actuators.

      I've not really seen any examples this being done. For me to chase down using RFID to unlock the doors I first have to know if actuators are even possible inside our doors. Ideally I'd mount the rfid reader behind each door within the upper front portion of each rear quarter panel. Reasoning is:

      - I doubt there is as much moisture that can access that location vs somewhere in the actual door
      - The location lends itself to simply being able to wave right behind the door to get unlocked
      - Less overall movement that you would otherwise have with the door continually being opened and closed

      The doors can also be automatically set to lock based on certain criteria ie time based after a said function has completed (for instance ignition off)

      I'm also assuming with the versatility of Arduino that you could trigger a passenger door unlock from perhaps doing two fast rfid passes at the drivers side.

      Thoughts?

    4. #3
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      235/55 tires - might want to consider a power steering option, particularly if you have to do any parking manoeuvres.

      I am running MS2 Extra modified for 4 cylinder full sequential. If you want to run sequential on the fuel and ignition there are some other vendors that make ECU with 4 channel ignition and fuel. They are price competitive with MS3 and might be a little more OEM like. Something to consider.

      I have a couple of lock motors that I bought for my 142 before I shelved the idea, at least for now. They were pretty inexpensive.

      https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ck/A-p8008425e

      Easy to attach to the lock rod. The biggest effort is fabricating a bracket to mount the motor in the door below the lock mechanism. I think RFID with the antenna mounted in the door is a no go. The metal skin of the door will do a pretty good job of shielding the antenna. The keyless entry systems that I have seen that use RFID as a back up to the fob put the RFID reader at the base of the front windshield.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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    6. #4
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      Agreed. Plan is to have EPS in the column she's already tough to steer at slow speed with the 205/60R15's on there right now. At this time I am more leaning towards 205/50R16 on 16x6.5 steel wheels with the centers flipped and backspacing adjusted. Would prefer a set of Wellers but that will depend on cost and other factors.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      235/55 tires - might want to consider a power steering option, particularly if you have to do any parking manoeuvres.
      I guess the question then changes to do these other ECU vendors support the same level of integration that I would get with GPIO/ Arduino/etc? I just need to ensure I can get data in as well as out so that I can massage it if necessary.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      I am running MS2 Extra modified for 4 cylinder full sequential. If you want to run sequential on the fuel and ignition there are some other vendors that make ECU with 4 channel ignition and fuel. They are price competitive with MS3 and might be a little more OEM like. Something to consider.
      What was your reasoning behind shelving it? I guess I hadn't thought about RFID and how it doesn't play when shielded with metal. I'll have to rethink placement. I'm not really a fan of electronics wired external to trim I prefer the hidden approach but I suppose with RFID that really isn't possible. I know I'd just prefer not to have to have a fob but something that responds to proximity. The door locks will have no other functions than to respond to that so no lock/unlock buttons on the door card or dash.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      I have a couple of lock motors that I bought for my 142 before I shelved the idea, at least for now. They were pretty inexpensive.

      https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ck/A-p8008425e

      Easy to attach to the lock rod. The biggest effort is fabricating a bracket to mount the motor in the door below the lock mechanism. I think RFID with the antenna mounted in the door is a no go. The metal skin of the door will do a pretty good job of shielding the antenna. The keyless entry systems that I have seen that use RFID as a back up to the fob put the RFID reader at the base of the front windshield.

    7. #5
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      To be accurate, the MS vendors don't explicitly support any level of integration with external devices (certainly not the Arduino). The GPIO board and transmission controller is sort of half way in between because it is sort of a B&G product; but, configuration is still up to you. MS2 and 3 utilize CAN bus and the integration with external devices occurs through the CAN bus. The 'support' for integration typically occurs through the user forums where you post technical question and where you receive opinions and answers which may or may not be useful. The exception to that might be the specific DIY plug and play products; but, there are no PnP for a 1971 Volvo! Most of the aftermarket ECUs support CAN bus, so with the same level of programming, you should be able to get values out (but, maybe not back in). You would need to investigate the product literature.

      The reason I suggest evaluating other products is that the original MS2 was relatively inexpensive in kit form. The basic MS3 is not inexpensive and the MS3 Pro is right up there in cost with the offerings from other vendors. As such, low cost is no longer the slam dunk that it once was in the decision process. One of the features that I have thought would be nice is to have the wideband controller built into the ECU rather than have an add-on controller. The OEMs are doing it and I think Haltech might be doing it (would have to read the product literature). If you are still in the exploration phase, it might be something to consider.

      I had installed a security system in the car with provision for door lock control. After a couple of months the system started having issues (such as going off in the middle of the night) so I ended up removing the system and all the associated wiring. I never did get around to putting the lock motors in. I might still install just a simple remote door lock / unlock function on the car; but, it is not a priority.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    8. #6
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      Yeah, I didn't really expect that from any controller and know I am on my own when it comes to getting this all to work. Just as long as I can output CAN data so that I can feed it to Arduino I am good. I'll have to look at a few alternatives to see where I stand. I did come across one based in the UK but at the moment the brand escapes me. To your point it does make sense to look what other options are available if in price point is such that these options are not viable alternatives. I believe I had primarily leaned towards MS as it is OpenSource and might lend itself to a more knowledgeable user base.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      To be accurate, the MS vendors don't explicitly support any level of integration with external devices (certainly not the Arduino). The GPIO board and transmission controller is sort of half way in between because it is sort of a B&G product; but, configuration is still up to you. MS2 and 3 utilize CAN bus and the integration with external devices occurs through the CAN bus. The 'support' for integration typically occurs through the user forums where you post technical question and where you receive opinions and answers which may or may not be useful. The exception to that might be the specific DIY plug and play products; but, there are no PnP for a 1971 Volvo! Most of the aftermarket ECUs support CAN bus, so with the same level of programming, you should be able to get values out (but, maybe not back in). You would need to investigate the product literature.

      The reason I suggest evaluating other products is that the original MS2 was relatively inexpensive in kit form. The basic MS3 is not inexpensive and the MS3 Pro is right up there in cost with the offerings from other vendors. As such, low cost is no longer the slam dunk that it once was in the decision process. One of the features that I have thought would be nice is to have the wideband controller built into the ECU rather than have an add-on controller. The OEMs are doing it and I think Haltech might be doing it (would have to read the product literature). If you are still in the exploration phase, it might be something to consider.
      I'm definitely not looking for any type of alarm system because all I can envision is hassle but some type of lock/unlock would be nice. I checked the link you attached earlier and that is a nice price point even if that particular part of the project gets shelved.. No real loss at that cost.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      I had installed a security system in the car with provision for door lock control. After a couple of months the system started having issues (such as going off in the middle of the night) so I ended up removing the system and all the associated wiring. I never did get around to putting the lock motors in. I might still install just a simple remote door lock / unlock function on the car; but, it is not a priority.

    9. #7
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      Great project! Excited to follow!
      "The Real IPD" - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      2007 Passion Red/Gobi VRgt; 2005 Silver/Beige Leather S60 2.5T AWD; 2002 Silver/Off black leather V70XC
      Past: 1999 Tropic Blue/Green/Oak leather V70 (NAa); Mom traded 1975 Maroon/Maroon leather 164E

    10. #8
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      So this weekend has me working on a couple of things.

      Firstly, I am working with Raspberry pi and my 7" touchscreen attempting to get OpenAuto running to see how that will play out. I'll post details on that once I have some success with it.

      Secondly I ordered some original wiper arms and blades that are supposedly hard to find originals (including the wind scoop on the passenger arm). Thing is they do not fit my 142. He has sent me pictures of the arms mounted on his 142 but the nubs on mine are too large.

      Clearance on the original arms is 14mm and the nubs mic out at 15.87mm so I'm not entirely sure what's what at this point.

      Thirdly I am removing and prepping the vent windows for replacement latches and also re-attaching the top mounts.

    11. #9
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      Wind scoop on the passenger arm??? I know that the 'arms' on my 1971 142 are original and there never was a scoop on the arm itself. The blade assembly had a scoop on it; but, on the driver's side. My original blade on the driver's side is long gone so that would be a neat period correct piece to find.

      Its probably not going to help you; but, the arms and original blades are different on the passenger and driver side. I found out about the arms when the Anco vintage replacement wiper arms that I got would not sit flat on the driver' s side. What is the 'nub' that you are talking about?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    12. #10
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      I guess I thought the wind scoop went on the passenger side. Since I can't get them to mount I have no way of knowing which side it went on. Here are pictures of the wipers and blades. Also here are the measurements between the splines (what I was calling nubs). The existing wiper arms have a wider diameter than the blades that just arrived and you can see the wider diameter in my existing wiper arm also. I'm told wiper blades were the same for most Volvo's of that era so I'm not sure why I'm having this issue.

      Were 200 series different and/or even compatible? All I have in my previous owner docs is a receipt written by hand for a wiper assembly repair....

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    13. #11
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      I have an advertising brochure for the 1971 Volvos and the 'wing' is on the driver's side in all the photos.

      Those wiper arms don't look like they came off of a 1971 140. The passenger side (I think) has a quirky double bend in it which is how it gets the blade to lay flat on the outside curve of the window. The arms also look a bit short. How does the length compare to the arms that are on the car? The bayonet mount looks correct. Perhaps just transfer the new blades on to your old arms and you get the period correct blades with the wing.

      The wiper arms and blades were probably common between the 140 and 160; however, the 1800 had a different size blade and totally different mounting on the arm. I expect that while the Amazon and 140 overlapped, the Amazon probably had the 1800 style arms and blades (just a guess). Maybe those are late post facelift 140 arms or 240 arms. I know that the 240 wiper mechanism is totally different from the 140.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    14. #12
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      ECU / Electronics / Upgrades / Mods

      Alright, so I made a little progress last last night and this morning on the Android auto portion of the build. There are many variables that seem to affect this working or not. As with most things it often boils down to the phone being used and my motorola doesn't seem to play very well with this open source variety. Also since it relies heavily on your phone's resources if your phone is already struggling then in turn the AA experience will also struggle. So far I've been able to get the following functional:

      - Connectivity to phone but not without some weird USB host error on the Raspberry Pi when first connected.
      - Intermittent microphone functionality from Pi so that voice functions work (also losing audio at times according to the error logs)
      - Google maps navigation works without issue minus phone lag issues. Waze however will show a map and map movement but will lock up if you search for any POI or address. (Waze is new to AA anyways so I expected as much)
      - [Edited]Was able to test Audio out and it works so Ultimately this would Jack in to my rebuilt 8track aux Jack.
      - Phone calls initialize but calls seems to route via phone speakers. I suspect this might require a Bluetooth audio connection to my head unit as well so I've some studying to do on this.
      - I've played around with 1080 and 720 screen resolutions and so far 720 seems more viable but this could change depending on final mounting position and my eyes. I suspect I'll stick with 720.

      And my setup is as follows:

      - Raspberry Pi 3b+
      - Raspberry Pi 7" touchscreen
      - USB soundcard with 3.5mm audio out and mic in Jack's
      - Rii wireless Keyboard
      - 3.5mm mic
      - 32 GB sandisk micro-sd card
      - 3 ft USB cable (standard cable that comes with most phones used to charge, etc)
      - Rasbian Stretch kernel 4.14 (release 2018-4-18)

      On order:

      - Tindie ribbon to HDMI cable adapter
      - Waveshare RPi camera k (fisheye 200 degree)

      I may not screw around with the backup camera portion of this until I get AA stable.



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      Last edited by Brandom; 05-26-2018 at 10:16 AM.

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      ECU / Electronics / Upgrades / Mods

      Made some progress with the FAR gauge today. Still needs some work but getting movement is by far the most hopeful I've been with incorporating the aero gaues into my dash. For some reason the gauge sits right above .07 when the voltage is at zero and I'm not sure why that is. The same goes for my dual temp gauge it also sits in the same spot when no voltage is present.

      videotogif_2018.06.01_15.16.16.jpg

      The sweep you see is the following range:

      0 - 1.25volts

      20 ohms - 145k ohms

      The code is very basic for now the main goal being if I can change the duty cycle on the fly and get a response out of it. I prefer this method over the potentiometer since when I have it connected it just gets in my way.

      Code:
      int ledPin = 9;      // LED connected to digital pin 9
      int analogPin = 3;   // potentiometer connected to analog pin 3
      int val = 0;         // variable to store the read value
      
      void setup()
      {
        pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);   // sets the pin as output
      }
      
      void loop()
      {
        val = 0;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 27;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 54;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 81;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 108;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 135;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 162;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 189;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 216;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 243;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
        val = 270;   // read the input pin
        analogWrite(ledPin, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2200);
      }
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      Last edited by Brandom; 06-01-2018 at 04:46 PM.

    16. #14
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      ECU / Electronics / Upgrades / Mods

      I've made some more progress on the aircraft instruments. Here we go:

      Illumination


      I was able to source a 32ft 12v/ 6000k led strip that's 3mm wide with a height of 3mm. I initially placed a strip around the internal circumference of the instrument itself but there were issues. For one I'm only provided with about 70% flat surface so there were sections where the strip was just suspended without anywhere to get adhesion with the 3m strip. Also there were two sections on the instrument by way of design that allowed for direct eye contact with an led depending on the angle you were viewing the instrument. This isn't something I can deal with as I don't need any opportunity for being blinded at night. Being this close also gave me extremely bright segments where you could clearly see where each led was placed. I went to bed frustrated because there was no easy way to get a the wiring through the rear of the instrument and the lighting wasn't what I expected it to be.

      Fast forward to early this morning I pulled the case off and inspected the housing again. Inside the housing is a metal sleeve that slides in. This sleeve contains the plexi housing and the face plate with the calibration screws. This sleeve does not travel the entire length of the housing so upon measuring I decided the best place to insert this strip was as far back as I could to where the internal housing butted up against the outer housing. The gap height difference between the sleeve and the housing is about 2.5mm so the strip only protrudes .5mm out the entire circumference of the inner housing. From there I decided to measure and drill for a spot to exit the casing so I could run the wiring out without having to drill through the rear assembly and the internal housing was able to slide in place and the mounting screws that secure both together firmly. Powered the led strip and voila. Uniform light pattern and no piecing led projections from the two open corners of the instrument.

      Just to be safe I've conducted some temperature tests to see where I am with temps.

      - Light on and the instrument receiving 0v from Arduino I am averaging between 82-90 degrees around the circumference and the actuators around 80)

      - Light on and the instrument receiving 2.5v from Arduino I jump about 5 degrees across the board.

      - Light on and the instrument receiving 5v from Arduino I am varying between 95 - 110 around the external circumference and the actuators are hovering between 99-105 degrees.

      2103929463135448489.jpg

      Here is a picture with the first attempt of mounting the led strip.

      6739325007255018246.jpg

      And this is with the strip pushed back and attached to the actual housing.

      Face Plates + Arduino


      I had originally expected to be in a situation where I would be using these instruments with their not so perfect and mismatched faces but they came off without issue. Curious if I could get faces made to match my Rallye cluster I sent an email to Dave Barton who responded with yes so I proceeded to sketch out how I think I'd like these faces to look. I also happens that in speaking with Innovate about wideband controller options that I can configure both analog outputs for 0-v volts and that 0-5v output coincides with Lambda values of .50 to 1.52. With that in mind I sketched out my new Lambda face plate. I also altered the Arduino code I was using including a Potentiometer that simulated 0-5v output to analog in (A0) on my Arduino. I set PWM pins 9/10 as output and tossed in a 1k resistor on each. Sure enough I get the entire range of the instrument based on that 0-5v input.

      The oil temp / air temp instrument however has been a challenge. I can control the instrument but not with any of the pinouts on the back. In order for me to gain control I have to remove the housing and tap in directly to the actuators with alligator clips. Only then can I get movement on both needles (movement as in expected and purposeful movement). Also upon removal of the housing I noticed that I cannot remove the inner sleeve it's lodged in place. Since I cannot remove the sleeve I cannot remove the plexi and clean so I just happened onto another instrument that was for a different purpose and appears to be controlled differently than the temp instrument. It should arrive today so my hope is that I can both control it and that the housing is free. The faceplate is exactly the same so there is no issue there and since I control the output with Arduino I don't care about its original purpose.

      Also here is are the sketches I made as well as my current Arduino code:

      Code:
      //Volvo 142 Lambda Instrument Test Code
      
      const int analogInPin = A0;    // Analog input pin A0 connected to Potentiometer and/or Wideband Controller (0v-5v)
      const int analogOutPin9 = 9;   // Analog output pin 09 (Digital PWM)
      const int analogOutPin10 = 10; // Analog output pin 10 (Digital PWM)
      
      int sensorValue = 0;         // value read as provided by Potentiometer and/or Wideband Controller output (0v-5v)
      int outputValue1 = 0;        // value output to the PWM pin 09 (analog out)- Lambda Left
      int outputValue2 = 0;        // value output to the PWM pin 10 (analog out)- Lambda Right
      int val = 0;
      
      void setup() {
        // initialize serial communications at 9600 bps:
        Serial.begin(9600);
      
        val = 160;   //Startup Sequence Value
        analogWrite(analogOutPin9, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(0);
        val = 160;   //Startup Sequence Value
        analogWrite(analogOutPin10, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2500);
        val = 0;   //Startup Sequence Value
        analogWrite(analogOutPin9, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2000);
        val = 0;   //Startup Sequence Value
        analogWrite(analogOutPin10, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2500); 
        val = 80;   //Startup Sequence Value
        analogWrite(analogOutPin9, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(0);
        val = 80;   //Startup Sequence Value
        analogWrite(analogOutPin10, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2500);
        val = 0;   //Startup Sequence Value
        analogWrite(analogOutPin9, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(0);
        val = 0;   //Startup Sequence Value
        analogWrite(analogOutPin10, val / 4);  // analogRead values go from 0 to 1023, analogWrite values from 0 to 255
        delay(2500);
      }
      
      void loop() {
        // read the analog in value for pin 09:
        sensorValue = analogRead(analogInPin);
        // map it to the range of the analog out for pin 9:
        outputValue1 = map(sensorValue, 0, 1023, 0, 40);
        // change the analog out value (PWM Duty Cycle 40):
        analogWrite(analogOutPin9, outputValue1);
        // read the analog in value for pin 10:
        sensorValue = analogRead(analogInPin);
        // map it to the range of the analog out for pin 10:
        outputValue2 = map(sensorValue, 0, 1023, 0, 40);
        // change the analog out value (PWM Duty Cycle 40):
        analogWrite(analogOutPin10, outputValue2);
      
      
        // print the results to the Serial Monitor:
        Serial.print("Potentiometer ");
        Serial.println(sensorValue);
        Serial.print("Lambda1 ");
        Serial.println(outputValue1);
        Serial.print("Lambda2 ");
        Serial.println(outputValue2);
      
        // wait 250 milliseconds before the next loop for the analog-to-digital
        // converter to settle after the last reading:
        delay(300);
      }
      IMG_20180604_111159990.jpg

      Here is a sketch of the Lambda face plate.

      IMG_20180604_111204731.jpg

      Here is a sketch of the Oil / Air temp face plate.

      Megasquirt


      At this point I am simply looking at what options are available to me for my wideband configuration. It appears the wideband controller provides the analog output and not MS...MS simply takes that data and uses it. I had originally thought I could pass out 02 data like I could engine temp, oil pressure, etc but I don't think I can? It's def not in the documentation which is lacking. If I can then I will only need a single wideband controller (Innovate DLG-1) however if MS cannot them I have to run 2 controllers (Innovate LC-2).

      I suppose that is it for now. As if all this wasn't winded enough!

    17. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post

      At this point I am simply looking at what options are available to me for my wideband configuration. It appears the wideband controller provides the analog output and not MS...MS simply takes that data and uses it. I had originally thought I could pass out 02 data like I could engine temp, oil pressure, etc but I don't think I can? It's def not in the documentation which is lacking. If I can then I will only need a single wideband controller (Innovate DLG-1) however if MS cannot them I have to run 2 controllers (Innovate LC-2).

      I suppose that is it for now. As if all this wasn't winded enough!
      Correct. MS does not have a wideband controller in the case. It receives the output analog voltage from an external WB controller and based upon the O2 sensor configuration data you enter when doing the configuration in Tuner Studio it interprets that voltage as an AFR (or lambda or whatever). Measured AFR is definitely a variable that is used in fuel pulse width calculation if you are using target AFRs. I am very sure that you can port that value to the CAN bus.

      My son was experimenting with my back-up MS2 connected to the Jim Stim. He had the CAN wired out to a CAN transceiver on a shield which was either on a Rasp Pi or an Arduino - can't remember the details. He was using this to drive an LCD panel with a mirror of the dashboard that was on the Tuner Studio display. I thought he had AFR on the display since the Jim Stim allows you to simulate a wideband output. I will try to remember to ask him. Being on the CAN bus, the value will definitely be digital. If you need an analog signal the end device would have to do the conversion for you.

      The Innovate products used to have 2 analog outputs and they were independently configurable. The common use was to have one analog output drive the ECU and the other drive a dash gauge. Innovate allowed you to set the slopes and intercepts independently for the two outputs. I have not had good luck with Innovate products so I am currently using a 14point7 Spartan 2. Unfortunately, it only has one non configurable analog output. However, I use it to drive both the Megasquirt and a dash gauge which have different slope and intercept requirements. I configure the MS2 to match the Spartan 2 output and then I use a couple of Op amps in a circuit which buffers the signal and alters the intercept and slope of the Spartan 2 signal to match the requirements of my dash gauge.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    18. #16
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      My end goal is to have most of this on a test bench and working prior even having the engine done. The innovate still has two linear outputs by default one is 0-5v the other is 0.1 to 1.1v and is narrowband I suppose but it can also be configured for 0-5v if needed. I suppose if push came to show I could do with two outputs and just have the MC quarterback the signal. Does the Spartan 2 give you 0-5v output?

      And what issues did you have with innovate?

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Correct. MS does not have a wideband controller in the case. It receives the output analog voltage from an external WB controller and based upon the O2 sensor configuration data you enter when doing the configuration in Tuner Studio it interprets that voltage as an AFR (or lambda or whatever). Measured AFR is definitely a variable that is used in fuel pulse width calculation if you are using target AFRs. I am very sure that you can port that value to the CAN bus.

      My son was experimenting with my back-up MS2 connected to the Jim Stim. He had the CAN wired out to a CAN transceiver on a shield which was either on a Rasp Pi or an Arduino - can't remember the details. He was using this to drive an LCD panel with a mirror of the dashboard that was on the Tuner Studio display. I thought he had AFR on the display since the Jim Stim allows you to simulate a wideband output. I will try to remember to ask him. Being on the CAN bus, the value will definitely be digital. If you need an analog signal the end device would have to do the conversion for you.

      The Innovate products used to have 2 analog outputs and they were independently configurable. The common use was to have one analog output drive the ECU and the other drive a dash gauge. Innovate allowed you to set the slopes and intercepts independently for the two outputs. I have not had good luck with Innovate products so I am currently using a 14point7 Spartan 2. Unfortunately, it only has one non configurable analog output. However, I use it to drive both the Megasquirt and a dash gauge which have different slope and intercept requirements. I configure the MS2 to match the Spartan 2 output and then I use a couple of Op amps in a circuit which buffers the signal and alters the intercept and slope of the Spartan 2 signal to match the requirements of my dash gauge.

    19. #17
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      Watching this thread with fascination. My experience with installing instruments is limited to plugging the existing 1972 connectors in the back and turning on the power. And replacing tiny incandescent bulbs. Keep up the great work!


    20. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      My end goal is to have most of this on a test bench and working prior even having the engine done. The innovate still has two linear outputs by default one is 0-5v the other is 0.1 to 1.1v and is narrowband I suppose but it can also be configured for 0-5v if needed. I suppose if push came to show I could do with two outputs and just have the MC quarterback the signal. Does the Spartan 2 give you 0-5v output?

      And what issues did you have with innovate?
      I think just about all wideband controllers are configured with a 0-5 v signal. The difference is that they have different slopes and intercepts on the outputs. On the Spartan 2, 0 volts is an AFR of 10 and 5 volts is an AFR of 20 and the controller is not software configurable. The default on the Innovates is different from what I remember.

      I had an LC1 and after a couple of months of operation it started generating error codes and having erratic operation. The error codes indicated a sensor heater problem so I replaced the sensor; but, that did not stop the erratic operation. The O2 sensor had a relatively short lead on it which required that I mount the LC1 controller on the firewall in the engine compartment. Even though Innovate did not specify temperature limitations for the controller, I was a little suspect about that so I extended the connection on the O2 sensor so that I could mount the controller in the passenger compartment. That eliminated the error codes for a while; but, then it went really flakey on me. Initially when it generated error codes, the output would go to the null value and Megasquirt would ignore it. When it went seriously flakey it still kept outputting a signal; but, the AFRs were off by 2-3 (I know what my AFRs should be in open loop on warm up and the gauge readings were way off). I run closed loop O2 control. I limit the max O2 correction to around 15% just to minimize the potential damage that a bad O2 controller can do to the engine. A 15% error can still cause some driveability issues so I decided that I had had enough with the LC1. The Spartan 2 has worked just fine for over a year now.

      If you do a little internet searching, you will find quite a few comments about heater control problems on the LC1. I don't know whether the LC2 has addressed that issue. I liked the Spartan 2 because it was $125 with a LSU 4.9 sensor. It suffered the same problem as the LC1 with a short connection that required mounting the controller in the engine compartment. I fixed that by cutting open the case, removing the LSU connector from the circuit board and putting an extension on it which allowed mounting the controller in the passenger compartment. The original case on the Spartan 2 is marginal, looking like it was made (poorly) on a home 3D printer. I ditched the case and sealed the circuit board up in a shell of heavy double wall heat shrink. Most certainly voided the warranty; but, continues to work just fine.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    21. #19
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      I promise you this is all very new for me. I'm creative but this isn't really something that comes easy to me. Plus trying to get assistance on questions when I am already this far in left field is frustrating but I just sit on it and think it through. Main reason I started down the path of trying to add Microcontroller control was that the Rallye cluster requires sensors that are damn near impossible if not impossible to get. For instance the fuel sending unit for that cluster is hens teeth. Why do that when I can take a normal sending unit (like the one I have now) and just have the Arduino be the middle man. I feel that this might help others down the road as parts becomes more obscure.

      Then I wanted extra gauges but all the regular gauges I saw for automobiles were boring and then I happened across an aircraft instrument that I liked and here we are. lol

      Quote Originally Posted by MonzaA4 View Post
      Watching this thread with fascination. My experience with installing instruments is limited to plugging the existing 1972 connectors in the back and turning on the power. And replacing tiny incandescent bulbs. Keep up the great work!


    22. #20
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      Hats off to you for thinking outside the box. Modern interfaces with old instrumentation may be the only way to maintain and retrofit down the road. Plus, I'm a big fan of adding modern tech conveniences to old iron. (It's also nice that 142 Guy finally has somebody else to talk to that understands deep electrical jargon! )

      Arnis has a different approach (virtual gauge cluster) that will be pretty awesome to see implemented as well.


      BTW: I assume you've run across these aircraft-inspired gauges -- I looked into this idea some time ago for an 1800E I had, but abandoned it.

      Moal Bomber Series:

      http://www.yogisinc.com/index.cfm/pa...at/cat3455.htm


      Another bomber style:

      https://www.egaugesplus.com/store/p1...42614-01_.html
      Last edited by MonzaA4; 06-07-2018 at 12:28 PM.

    23. #21
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      Those are nice! You should have run with those! I don't know if I am even close to being on par with 142 Guy. I did have a setback this morning. My other instrument initially worked but being the idiot I can be at times I decided to take the inner housing off to inspect the wiring to see if this one would allow for better routing of the LED power and ground wires. I'm sort of a stickler for form so I typically want everything bundled and easily identifiable in a nice connector out back. Well it bit me on the ass. Once I opened it two springs shot out one from each side. Attached to each spring were wires being held on with 40+ year old solder. They also fit into very specific cutouts in the casing so that the cover is able to mount flush with the main body. After 30 minutes of me holding this thing with its guts hanging everywhere I ripped the springs off the solder and removed all the wiring until all I had left were the needles, actuators and the main body.

      I was able to test this way and sure enough was still able to control the needles with alligator clips attached to the main solder points for each actuator. I solders new wires in and tested with the case off and yep, still worked. Still I was not able to get the back of the body back on and I need that in order to put the rear housing on. I took out my dremel and started to work my way into the inner part of the housing cutting small channels for the wiring to set into so I could get the cover on.. and once I was almost finished the dremel bounced and when it did it ran right into the back of one of the actuators and scraped all across the tightly wound spring. At first glance it seemed like it survived but sure enough powering it on it will respond to voltage but once it is up it will not return back once I cut power.

      At some point I will have everything sorted but there is no rush. It's not like I have to have to have these done anytime soon.

      Quote Originally Posted by MonzaA4 View Post
      Hats off to you for thinking outside the box. Modern interfaces with old instrumentation may be the only way to maintain and retrofit down the road. Plus, I'm a big fan of adding modern tech conveniences to old iron. (It's also nice that 142 Guy finally has somebody else to talk to that understands deep electrical jargon! )

      Arnis has a different approach (virtual gauge cluster) that will be pretty awesome to see implemented as well.


      BTW: I assume you've run across these aircraft-inspired gauges -- I looked into this idea some time ago for an 1800E I had, but abandoned it.

      Moal Bomber Series:

      http://www.yogisinc.com/index.cfm/pa...at/cat3455.htm


      Another bomber style:

      https://www.egaugesplus.com/store/p1...42614-01_.html

    24. #22
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      Ok a Build thread it is (1971 142e)

      If you want to see what instrument overkill looks like on a 140 dashboard, take a look at the "Classic Volvo Resto-Mod" Facebook site. There's a newer post there with photos of a custom wood dash and some... interesting add-ons.



      Last edited by MonzaA4; 06-08-2018 at 12:44 PM.

    25. #23
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      Wow! Such a hodge podge of carious gauges. lol. I always worry my setup may be too cluttered. It's a legitimate worry. Reason I wanted the two added instruments to match each other and to have the faces redone to closely fall in line with the rallye cluster. I think keeping with a theme helps but once you go into various assortments of instruments you get into a weird place. It's also why I decided to custom add a section in front of the fuse panel but not protruding enough to cause interference with the long throw shift.. because I needed to move a few things down off the main dash.

      Hopefully at some point down the road I can do a complete mockup to get a feel for things before I move forward. Having a spare dash helps I suppose.

      Quote Originally Posted by MonzaA4 View Post
      If you want to see what instrument overkill looks like on a 140 dashboard, take a look at the "Classic Volvo Resto-Mod" Facebook site. There's a newer post there with photos of a custom wood dash and some... interesting add-ons.




    26. #24
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      That's why I shared this - I could tell you were a stickler for matching gauges and cohesive design. The moment your mock-up starts looking like the above -- STOP!

      EDIT: BTW: I assume that "dash-purse" is an exceedingly rare Volvo accessory? And I think that might be a chair leg re-purposed as a shift knob...
      Last edited by MonzaA4; 06-08-2018 at 01:02 PM.

    27. #25
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      Quote Originally Posted by MonzaA4 View Post
      (It's also nice that 142 Guy finally has somebody else to talk to that understands deep electrical jargon! )
      I was thinking the same thing.

    28. #26
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      ECU / Electronics / Upgrades / Mods

      Here are some new screenshots from my Raspberry pi setup running Android Auto. It's much better since the phone upgrade. My old Moto X pure just wasn't helping and it was time to upgrade to jumped into a Pixel 2 XL and there is much improvement. Still doesn't love waze entirely and there is a weird stutter in audio when jumping in and out of a call when it cuts out and back into the audio that is playing during the interruption. Also when placing a phone call the audio is routed to the handset or speaker phone on the handset itself. This isn't even in beta yet so I expect improvements.

      - Raspberry Pi B+
      - RPI 7" touchscreen
      - USB Audio card with mic in/audio out
      - Wireless Rii keyboard
      - 128mn Sandisk micro SD card
      - OS Raspbian with Stretch V4.14
      - USB type A to C cable (phone dependent)
      - 1080p output via AA developer settings/options


      Screenshots

      6081104559083490147.jpg

      1727635594423397557.jpg

      7411875953359911268.jpg

      7581874896428863861.jpg

      5911047414854519211.jpg

    29. #27
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      Last edited by Brandom; 06-08-2018 at 02:39 PM.

    30. #28
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      Quote Originally Posted by MonzaA4 View Post
      If you want to see what instrument overkill looks like on a 140 dashboard, take a look at the "Classic Volvo Resto-Mod" Facebook site. There's a newer post there with photos of a custom wood dash and some... interesting add-ons.



      Takes your breath away!

      Just keep on repeating to yourself, style is subjective, style is subjective, style is subjective...... When I was a little kid, my mother used to say to me if you can't say anything nice, don't say anything.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    31. #29
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      Are you saying this is your second Volvo 140 and now your secret it out?

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Takes your breath away!

      Just keep on repeating to yourself, style is subjective, style is subjective, style is subjective...... When I was a little kid, my mother used to say to me if you can't say anything nice, don't say anything.

    32. #30
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      Busted!

      I am curious about how the owner got the shift boot so shiny.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    33. #31
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      Just a quick update. I had started this a week ago and after a reboot never submitted.

      Engine

      About two weeks ago I experienced some sort of failure which left me stranded about 6 miles from home. After three attempts spanning 48 hours and only getting 4 miles closer in I decided to have her towed. I live on a steep hill so I wasn't really wanting to deal with a tow but it was just too stressful in the end trying to run reds and stops for that 2 minute window in which she would run. As of now I have the access panel for the pump off and the pump removed as well as the filter. Also decided to pull the plugs which of course look like crap. My apologies to 142guy for the panicked PM's. My Scout I know how to handle when failures occur but I've never really had to do anything to the 142 and was hoping it would stay that way until tear down. Anyways.. I've not done the testing necessary to figure out where the failure is but hope to test the fuel pump once a new filter arrives. I'll toss in some new plugs and proceed to run through some testing with Djet, Ignition, etc to see what's going on.

      Body

      While the Volvo is down in the garage I took the opportunity to screw around with mocking up the 164 front side lamps and the 242/245 rear side lamps. I'll be deleting the corner turn signals and using the side markers and parking lamp as turn signals. Also mocked up the front '67-'70 grill I had laying around. Found a set of top and side brackets as well as lower mounting pegs and was finally able to get it there nice and snug. This particular grill is bent somewhat but is perfect for driving her as is until I have everything in line and ready for strip down, body work, etc. I do have a NOS never used grill of the same era that is straight as an arrow with a great finish minus a few scratches from 40+ years of shelving shuffles. I'm trying to decide if I should have it polished and anodized or if I want to have it polished and powder coated with clear. The latter would offer me more protection for sure since everything grill related on these 140's is fragile at best. Spent over a week just trying to source original amber turn signals as I don't want to run the clears. Have to love these unobtainable part hunts. One thing I am learning though is that be damned sure to double check before letting someone convince you that the parts they have are in great condition... This shouldn't be a subjective thing but it sure as hell seems like it is!

      Also have a set of used rear side vent rubbers arriving today. I'm hoping they are in 'great' condition as promised by the seller since I don't know if and when I will ever see another decent set or if I will ever have an option to purchase a nos set where they are not shrunken. I just know I cannot use my existing ones once I repaint since they are both shrunken, dry rotten and covered in gold paint (thank you Maaco and some previous owner).

      1065952600722591867.jpg

    34. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      About two weeks ago I experienced some sort of failure which left me stranded about 6 miles from home. After three attempts spanning 48 hours and only getting 4 miles closer in I decided to have her towed. I live on a steep hill so I wasn't really wanting to deal with a tow but it was just too stressful in the end trying to run reds and stops for that 2 minute window in which she would run. As of now I have the access panel for the pump off and the pump removed as well as the filter. Also decided to pull the plugs which of course look like crap. My apologies to 142guy for the panicked PM's. My Scout I know how to handle when failures occur but I've never really had to do anything to the 142 and was hoping it would stay that way until tear down. Anyways.. I've not done the testing necessary to figure out where the failure is but hope to test the fuel pump once a new filter arrives. I'll toss in some new plugs and proceed to run through some testing with Djet, Ignition, etc to see what's going on.
      Sorry to hear about the engine woes. You'll see in my "Spring Project" thread that I had a similar thing happen last summer. Diagnosis took me on a goose chase through the entire D-jet system, fuel pump, coil, relays, and fuses. In the end, I took it to my shop guy who discovered that my points were fried, presumably from leaving the ignition switch on for too long at some point. A few bucks later, I was back on the road after 2 solid weeks of frustration and missing car shows. Moral of the story: Check those points and the other simple stuff first.

    35. #33
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      Quick little request for info if anyone knows this or has access to a m41 removed.

      Anyone know the distance from the bellhousing to the center of the shift mechanism (for long throw configuration)?

      Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

    36. #34
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      Only if nobody here can give you a direct answer, check the Turbobricks forum. Try the Mechanical - Performance and Modifications page. Late last year or early this year I seem to recall that a thread got started on using a T5 transmission from, I think, an S10 pick-up in the 140 because it retained the long throw shifter look. I seem to recall that there were some measurements discussed relative to the M40 / 41 because of the question as to where the shifter would be located. I don't recall the outcome (a lot of those threads sort of diverge and then peter out); but, you might get the dimensions you need.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    37. #35
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      The last resort forums. lol. I know using the S10 tail housing was mentioned in a turbo 142 thread I suppose I could pm him directly. I'm getting conflicting information on the m41 as it pertains to durability. Some say they are using them with higher than 200hp b20 configurations while others state anything over 170hp and you're on borrowed time. I'd much rather plan for a t5 build now rather than having to approach this once all my body work is done. The Tremec tko (500 or 600) appears to have a front shift option that puts the shifter 14" from the bell housing to the center of the shift mount. Other t5 adaptations do not seem to have this same flexibility when it comes to multiple shift locations.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Only if nobody here can give you a direct answer, check the Turbobricks forum. Try the Mechanical - Performance and Modifications page. Late last year or early this year I seem to recall that a thread got started on using a T5 transmission from, I think, an S10 pick-up in the 140 because it retained the long throw shifter look. I seem to recall that there were some measurements discussed relative to the M40 / 41 because of the question as to where the shifter would be located. I don't recall the outcome (a lot of those threads sort of diverge and then peter out); but, you might get the dimensions you need.

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