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    1. #36
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      So it would appear that Tremec obsoleted the front shift option on the T5's (or the TKO series) which puts me back into the fabrication category if I want to retain that location.

      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      The Tremec tko (500 or 600) appears to have a front shift option that puts the shifter 14" from the bell housing to the center of the shift mount. Other t5 adaptations do not seem to have this same flexibility when it comes to multiple shift locations.

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    3. #37
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      I'm getting conflicting information on the m41 as it pertains to durability. Some say they are using them with higher than 200hp b20 configurations while others state anything over 170hp and you're on borrowed time. .
      If you are relying on the TB forum, reliability seems to be rather subjective. Sometimes, I think if it lasts more than a month or two, some consider that acceptably reliable.

      As an observation, gear reliability and shaft breakage is more related to the torque transferred through a matching gear pair than the horsepower. If you get your 200 hp by raising the redline to 10,000 RPM, the actual force (torque) applied across a gear face may be just the same as on a 130 hp engine. If you have a boosted configuration that manages to develop 200 hp at 5000 RPM, that gear face is going to see twice the force on it as the 10,000 RPM engine and may not have a happy life. That doesn't say anything about such things as the operation of synchros at elevated speeds.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    4. #38
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      So it would appear that Tremec obsoleted the front shift option on the T5's (or the TKO series) which puts me back into the fabrication category if I want to retain that location.
      No doubt; but, I thought the received wisdom on the TB forum was that wrecked S10s with the T5 were literally clogging up the salvage yards. I don't think I have ever seen an S10 with a standard shift gear box; but, to be fair I don't really pay much attention to S10s or any truck for that matter.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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    6. #39
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      No doubt; but, I thought the received wisdom on the TB forum was that wrecked S10s with the T5 were literally clogging up the salvage yards. I don't think I have ever seen an S10 with a standard shift gear box; but, to be fair I don't really pay much attention to S10s or any truck for that matter.
      That's what I'm hearing and that they also require a total re-gear as the ratios are not what we'd like to see in our cars. That's fine with me also but even with the S10 tail housing you're still off quite a bit from the standard long shift location. What I like about the tko is that even with the obsolete front shift option you still have the plate there that opens itself up for mod options in regards to mounting such a mod vs the S10 housing which requires actual welding to the housing itself.

      Tko also gives you the option for having a new unit vs resorting to only junk yard rebuilds. I still need to research for sure. I've also seen two conflicting reports on TB about input shaft size requirements and one other conflicting report on OZ forums so..I don't know if in the end it'll boil down to having to sort this at the time I pull the trigger and have it all laid out.

      All I can say is that I don't want to be cutting on the trans tunnel doing this a year after the car has been assembled that would drive me nuts.

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    7. #40
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      I've also seen two conflicting reports on TB about input shaft size requirements
      Only two? On TB that almost qualifies as a consensus.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    8. #41
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Only two? On TB that almost qualifies as a consensus.
      Haha I needed that laugh!

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    9. #42
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      Just a thought on the M41 and durability. If you have a 71E isn't your trans a M410? If not why not research an M410 (1800E-164E) it's stronger made to take more crap, and no shifter location issues. I have a good friend in NH running a modded 142GT (yes with all the OEM goodies right out of the Stage 1,2,3 catalog) and a 410 has stood well by him but.... The T5 of course is 30+ ish years of engineering/technology advancement and with the other more technical issues your pursuing and 142 Guy helping, the transmission deal seems like the least of your concerns.... I'm running a 70 1800E trans by chance, changed the shifter added seals and new oil with no surprises. By any chance is that an International (scout II) beside your 142 in your earlier post? Like 142 Guys posts will follow your build nice to another 142 being reborn.....
      2007 V70 2.5T Hyper Silver, 67K - Polestar, Orpheus 17" Wheels, Spoiler
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    10. #43
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      Unless there was some production anomaly or some market specific oddity , I am of the understanding that all 140 E and 1800E received the M41 and only the 164 received the M410. Both my 142 E and an acquaintance's 1970 1800 E are equipped with the M41.

      The upside to the T5 is that it eliminates the whole overdrive business and it should provide a slight performance enhancement as it weights less the M41 combo due to its aluminum case.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    11. #44
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      I don’t have the info at hand, but I believe the 70 1800 received the M410.

    12. #45
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      Quote Originally Posted by craig300 View Post
      I don’t have the info at hand, but I believe the 70 1800 received the M410.
      Correct; but, not completely correct. According to the production data, up to chassis # 37549, 1800s with the B20E engine received the M41, M410 or BW35 transmission. If you have a type designation 184351 or 184352, you may have either an M41 or an M410. That is where my comment about the production anomaly came from. However, the type designation for the 1800 E that came to North America is 184353 and all those cars are listed with the M41 (or type 184363 if you have a BW35). North American production numbers end in 3. After 1971 they added the 4 for California market cars. So, according to the production numbers, all North American 1800 E cars should have the M41 or BW35. An M410 on this side of that Atlantic would be a double anomaly according to the production data.

      According to the production data, anything after chassis 37549 in the E series has an M41 (or BW35) regardless of the market.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 07-29-2018 at 12:40 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    13. #46
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      142Guy and Craig3000 are right. The 1800e and 164 received the M410 and it also never came in long stick configuration sadly (It can be added from the m40 but never came that way as standard configuration). Since I am building a stroker b20 with FI I just can't imagine the M40 holding out especially third gear. People say 'They will hold up if you baby them' but what does that even mean really? Always shift at 3500? Never hit it hard? I don't abuse my cars at all but I also can't baby a transmission that way always afraid that it'll eat a gear. I don't know I'm not saying it's a garbage transmission it's just not really equipped for over a certain level of power. I know Phil and others have had good success with them. Others have eaten third gears repeatedly.

      I am still working on the idea of putting a tremec tko in the M40's place and using my OD stalk for fogs. I just have to work out the logistics of retaining long throw.

      And yessir that is a Scout II next to my 142e. She's a '77 model with 345/727 torqueflight / 4bbl edelbrock / DUI distributor / Factory A/C (york paint shaker compressor) / 8-track / hard top / basket rack and 32x11.5 BFG's on chrome rallye wheels. My very first vehicle was a '74 Scout II soft top but in much worse condition. lol

      Quote Originally Posted by 07V70 View Post
      Just a thought on the M41 and durability. If you have a 71E isn't your trans a M410? If not why not research an M410 (1800E-164E) it's stronger made to take more crap, and no shifter location issues. I have a good friend in NH running a modded 142GT (yes with all the OEM goodies right out of the Stage 1,2,3 catalog) and a 410 has stood well by him but.... The T5 of course is 30+ ish years of engineering/technology advancement and with the other more technical issues your pursuing and 142 Guy helping, the transmission deal seems like the least of your concerns.... I'm running a 70 1800E trans by chance, changed the shifter added seals and new oil with no surprises. By any chance is that an International (scout II) beside your 142 in your earlier post? Like 142 Guys posts will follow your build nice to another 142 being reborn.....

    14. #47
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      Never having seen an M410, does it resemble the M40/M41? Would fitting the top from a long shift M40/M41 to a M410 be an option? That said, finding an M410 might be an interesting challenge. According to the production data none of the 1800E M410s made it to North America and I have never, in person, seen a 164 with anything other than a BW35.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    15. #48
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      Yes, you can toss a long throw setup from the M40 on it even though they never came that way. Like you mentioned finding one is an entirely other situation. That transmission falls deep into hens tooth territory. Just trying to find the bellhousing for one is an effort. I saw a bellhousing for one on sale on Tradera but I believe the shipping costs here would be insane. I'm having a friend who is staying for a month next month carry over a KG trimning aluminum rocker stand with him in luggage since shipping was $150 to get it here. Do we know exactly how much stronger the M410 is over the M40?

      *Also just thought of this. It would be hard as hell to get a Swede to package up an M410 and freight it to you if you happened upon one. I already have a hard enough time getting small items shipped. They just don't like shipping all that much. Getting my Xmas chocolate shipped to me by my friends is a chore already and that's a damn gift that I offer to pay shipping costs myself. LOL

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Never having seen an M410, does it resemble the M40/M41? Would fitting the top from a long shift M40/M41 to a M410 be an option? That said, finding an M410 might be an interesting challenge. According to the production data none of the 1800E M410s made it to North America and I have never, in person, seen a 164 with anything other than a BW35.
      Last edited by Brandom; 07-30-2018 at 03:32 PM.

    16. #49
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      Ok, update time since it's overdue. I meant to give an update earlier but my hands have been full with house crap for 6 weeks now and we all know the rules in that game.

      Electronics\Interior\Dash

      After much deliberation I decided to move away from the Aircraft instrument project. While I was able to gain control of the instrument and even illuminate it I noticed that the needles refused to remain stable during movement of the actual instrument so there was no comfort in knowing that actual vehicle movement wouldn't cause continue instability with the needles themselves. As if often happens though the creative process with this endeavor allowed me to move into another setup which I feel keeps with the theme of the car and also keeps it in the Volvo realm. Since my rallye cluster arrived back at home last week I began searching for vdo gauges that closely matches that of the rallye cluster. I happened across a specific era of Volvo-Penta gauges that without too much work can be re-purposed for use with the cluster and keep with the theme I am targeting. Pictures are attached. These will be sent off to Dave and Roger and re-purposed as Oil Temp, Battery, Lambda (AFR), Vacuum and Fuel Pressure or Air temp (undecided on the last one). Cockpit and dash layout is a huge deal for me so I don't mind spending a considerable amount of time making it exactly like I want it to be. I've also moved away from the Android Auto/Raspberri pi concept as it takes up considerable space under the dash that would be better used for the Volvo-penta gauge concept and I prefer that more classic theme to something more modern.

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      Last edited by Brandom; 07-30-2018 at 03:26 PM.

    17. #50
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      Engine (Rebuild)

      I've been sourcing parts and am still sourcing parts. Some hens tooth items that I am still hunting for but so far I have scored a single Ronwill 'long' DCOE intake 2x manifold but am lacking the twin. The hunt is still on. It's my goal to use these for my itb setup. I have a KG trimning rocker stand/set incoming next month that I just scored and hope to use this for a roller/rocker setup. I have since emailed Harland Sharp and am awaiting pricing on a roller rocker configuration from them hopefully utilizing the KGT aluminum stand (KG used these for their roller setups back when they sold them). I am also talking with AGAP.se in regards to the billet roller cam/lifter setups that they make for the B20. I can get almost any grind required but need to wait on other engine specs before providing these details to them. Tinus Tuning has priced out the 2.5 stroker kit and I've been going back and forth with them on options for the build. At this point I feel the need to reach back out to Phil Singher to discuss build to see if he would indulge in a collaborative build of this type vs a standard build. I'm a little sketchy on cam specs for ITB and need to study a bit more on that as my understanding is you want more overlap and longer duration? Like I said not the expert here so still doing homework on the subject plus anytime you try to do anything outside of the box with a b20 you get the voodoo bugaboo tossed at you. ;D

      Other items I am contemplating are a PCV catch can system as not to have to deal with dumping that garbage back into my intake system as well as vacuum pump for my brake booster so that I don't have to tap vacuum at the engine for braking. I know ITBS suffer from low vacuum so I am looking into having a vacuum box made that runs to each throttle body and them from the vacuum box I can run my MAP sensor.

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      Last edited by Brandom; 07-30-2018 at 03:37 PM.

    18. #51
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      Yes, you can toss a long throw setup from the M40 on it even though they never came that way. Like you mentioned finding one is an entirely other situation. That transmission falls deep into hens tooth territory. Just trying to find the bellhousing for one is an effort. I saw a bellhousing for one on sale on Tradera but I believe the shipping costs here would be insane. I'm having a friend who is staying for a month next month carry over a KG trimning aluminum rocker stand with him in luggage since shipping was $150 to get it here. Do we know exactly how much stronger the M410 is over the M40?

      *Also just thought of this. It would be hard as hell to get a Swede to package up an M410 and freight it to you if you happened upon one. I already have a hard enough time getting small items shipped. They just don't like shipping all that much. Getting my Xmas chocolate shipped to me by my friends is a chore already and that's a damn gift that I offer to pay shipping costs myself. LOL
      Perhaps private sales from Sweden are a hassle; but, I have purchased a number of items from CVI in Sweden and never had any problem with the shipping. Large items are pricey if they use courier services. If they use the postal service, the prices used to be reasonable (Sweden to Canada was not that much worse than US to Canada).
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    19. #52
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      Yes, it's the private sales aspect of all this which is difficult. VP and CVI always pull through and shipping isn't too bad unless it's a large item. I'm still waiting to hear back on my door cards from 4 weeks ago. I suspect I will hear something from them any day now. I was able to get someone on Tradera to send me a penta gauge via Swedish post and it was $20 thereabouts. Shipping out of the Netherlands seems pricier by far if you are shopping on e-commerce sites.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Perhaps private sales from Sweden are a hassle; but, I have purchased a number of items from CVI in Sweden and never had any problem with the shipping. Large items are pricey if they use courier services. If they use the postal service, the prices used to be reasonable (Sweden to Canada was not that much worse than US to Canada).

    20. #53
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      Scandcar is in the Netherlands and I used them for a lot of the hard to source parts for the 140. Six plus years ago they had a bigger selection of 140 parts than anybody else. They initially used the postal service for shipping. It was typically 2 weeks + for delivery; but, the costs were reasonable and its not as if the 140 was a daily driver and I needed the parts in a hurry. A couple of years ago they switched to using a courier service. Faster; but, the increase in shipping costs plus their higher brokerage fees has turned Scandcar into a last resort rather than first resort supplier.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    21. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      Are those warning indicators the original Volvo indicators? That yellow indicator sure looks like a check engine light. Is it supposed to be a low oil pressure light (typically red)?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    22. #55
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      Transmission

      Here are some comparative dimensions/measurements between the M41 with short cover and the Tremec TKO. This doesn't account for increased length due to any added adapter. Feel free to correct if you think I am off. Measurements were not taken by me but by someone with access to an M41-TypeJ unit.

      tremec_tko_500_600.jpg

      M41TypeJ.jpg
      Last edited by Brandom; 07-31-2018 at 12:22 PM.

    23. #56
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      Engine (Rebuild)

      I have a KG trimning rocker stand/set incoming next month that I just scored and hope to use this for a roller/rocker setup. I have since emailed Harland Sharp and am awaiting pricing on a roller rocker configuration from them hopefully utilizing the KGT aluminum stand (KG used these for their roller setups back when they sold them).
      As the original Volvo rocker 'rocks', the contact point of the valve stem on the rocker shoe moves horizontally. That is why you eventually get a groove worn in the shoe. A roller rocker will incur the same horizontal movement phenomena; but, in this case the roller is moving across the valve tip. As the roller rocker rocks down, the contact area between the roller and the valve tip moves across the valve tip. Higher lift cams exaggerate this movement. This means that the size of the contact area with the valve stem and the contact pressure is changing. The movement of the contact point across the valve stem can also induce side loading on the valve stem. I have read comments that people have attributed valve guide / stem wear to the retrofit of roller rockers.

      Have you done a mechanical drawing to estimate the movement of the contact patch across the valve stem to estimate whether it may be a problem?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    24. #57
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      Engine

      I spent the evening researching more ITB material. As I posted earlier I have a singular 2x45 DCOE Ronwill manifold. I've also been looking at Misabs offering since they appear to be the closest casting to that of the old CS manifolds offered by Volvo. Since I may never have the opportunity to score a second Ronwill I need a plan B. The difference in length is not much with the Ronwill manifold dimensions being 11.4mm (length), 46.7mm (itb side port diameter) and (41mm head side port diameter) and the Misab being 12mm long but with unknown dimensions on port sizing. The Misabs are also labeled as 45mm DCOE so I suspect they are close in sizing. One thing the Misab has that the Ronwills do not are vacuum take-off ports so I would have to either 1). Drill ports into the Ronwills or 2). Have a DCOE plate fabricated with vacuum-taps added to each stack. This did lead me to another question though...

      The Misab vacuum take-offs are at the head side of the manifold, very close to the head as a matter of fact. Since I am moving the injectors to the throttle bodies this means I have to block off these injector ports. Can these ports not be used for vacuum or no? Just thinking out loud at this point as I would like to explore all options before just blocking these off. The throttle bodies I've more than likely settled on are 48mm DCOE throttle bodies from AT-Power out of the UK. The DCOE throttle bodies do not have vacuum pull-offs which is why I am also exploring other alternatives.

      I'll post pictures a bit later.

    25. #58
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      As a suggestion, have someone laser cut some flanges to match the Ronwill manifold and then have a couple of thick wall aluminum tubes welded in place. The cost of laser cutting aluminum is fairly low. Duplicating the manifold may be cheaper than the purchase of two new manifolds.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    26. #59
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      That's also a consideration since I would get a manifold that met my needs exactly. My issue with custom fab is my location above all else. I don't know how it is elsewhere but I always seem to encounter the 'good 'ole boys' who talk more than walk... and then the walk when it actually happens ends up being subpar. I've been burned so much by that during my Scout rebuild that it has me a bit gun shy..to the point where I would prefer sending it off if I knew that a reputable fabricator with excellent skills (including that of listening and communicating) that was willing to take on multiple fabrication projects.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      As a suggestion, have someone laser cut some flanges to match the Ronwill manifold and then have a couple of thick wall aluminum tubes welded in place. The cost of laser cutting aluminum is fairly low. Duplicating the manifold may be cheaper than the purchase of two new manifolds.

    27. #60
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      Well I went all out and did something stupid today.. I bought a b30 engine that just happens to be wrapped in some other Volvo oddness to be the new 142 stable mate.

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    28. #61
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      Ahhhhhhh - similar boxy construction to the 140. Also in keeping with your plans for a rough surface rally kind of look with lots of ground clearance. You won't have to worry about seeing yourself on the street. I predict that VP Auto or CVI or Scandcar do not carry a full range of parts.

      Are you married? Are you still married? If so, you either have a very accommodating spouse or she was well aware of the particular kind of crazy she was marrying into.

      Does this mean the 142 build thread is going to get side-tracked?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    29. #62
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Ahhhhhhh - similar boxy construction to the 140. Also in keeping with your plans for a rough surface rally kind of look with lots of ground clearance. You won't have to worry about seeing yourself on the street. I predict that VP Auto or CVI or Scandcar do not carry a full range of parts.

      Are you married? Are you still married? If so, you either have a very accommodating spouse or she was well aware of the particular kind of crazy she was marrying into.

      Does this mean the 142 build thread is going to get side-tracked?
      I'm not married just long term relationship. It's sort of an unspoken rule that we don't discuss the habit.

      I don't think it'll sidetrack the 142 project. I'm still slowly assembling parts and thinking through designs. I'm contemplating selling the international to roll funds into the 303 but as it is now it's very usable until the 142 is done. She doesn't fit in the garage though at over 90" tall. Talked to Misab this week and they do ship state side so that's an option for dcoe mani's. Door cards arrive next week also. My kg rocker stand will be coming over end of month in checked baggage from a friend that's visiting from Malmo.

      Parts only really carry over on the b30 the remainder you're sort of reliant on places that specialize in the mechanicals ie portals. I don't know anything about portals yet... The body is aluzinc so zero rust. The overlander community seems to know a few things about these.

      I just want to pick up people with it one weekend using Uber...

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    30. #63
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      Is your vehicle a true C series or the Laplander which was the civilian version of the C?

      The Volvo push rod engine made it in to another couple of pieces of military equipment, the Bandvagen 202 (B18) and the Haubits FH77 howitzer (B20 as the aux power unit). Your C with a Haubits FH77 would make an interesting display combo; however, even with the Haubits' aux power unit running I don't think your C would be up to the tow job. Plus, I expect that used ones still tend to be a bit pricey.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    31. #64
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      It's a true C series. TBG11 is the designation. I think Laplander gets used as a generic reference but it should in all honestly apply for the L3314 series (c202). The C303 did come in civilian dress but there are subtle differences such as headlight wipers, a recess under the oval b-pillar window on the drivers side and a notch cutout under the middle doors. Also the civilian models were always steel whereas you could get the military version in aluzinc which is what this particular c303 is made of. I do plan to civilianize it however since trying to find one is near impossible due to rust issues. They are hard to find as it so I decided to just go with a military model. This particular one has 33k kilometers so it's very low mileage.

      I don't believe this one has a PTO on it but I'm not 100% on that.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Is your vehicle a true C series or the Laplander which was the civilian version of the C? I'm not sure but I believe the Laplander designation was for the C202 which had the b20?

      The Volvo push rod engine made it in to another couple of pieces of military equipment, the Bandvagen 202 (B18) and the Haubits FH77 howitzer (B20 as the aux power unit). Your C with a Haubits FH77 would make an interesting display combo; however, even with the Haubits' aux power unit running I don't think your C would be up to the tow job. Plus, I expect that used ones still tend to be a bit pricey.

    32. #65
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      Hi,

      At the moment there is a M410 with overdrive for sale in the Netherlands, gives you some idea about how it looks and pirce,
      https://link.marktplaats.nl/m1304114178

    33. #66
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Location
      Helena, AL
      Posts
      183
      Figured I would check in here. It's been a hectic end of 2018 and start of 2019. I still don't have my 142 running yet. Still religiously starts yet dies with no restart after it warms up. My C303 has been consuming all of my time with repair after repair and since I cannot hide it away anywhere like I can my 142 when it's broken I am forced to address the repair work immediately.

      I really do miss driving the old girl.

    34. #67
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Location
      Helena, AL
      Posts
      183
      Alright... Replaced the engine temp sensor near the IAC and after some tweaking she no longer dies and will restart when warm. I still have enrichment issues as well as idle problems. Had to plug the booster which helped but I can't seem to get a reliable idle. I need to replace the vacuum lines and go from there.


      https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c5e12a3...7861179667.mp4

      https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c5e12a3...6615051221.mp4

      Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
      Last edited by Brandom; 02-08-2019 at 06:47 PM.

    35. #68
      Member
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Saskatchewan, Canada
      Posts
      2,164
      If you are having persistent idle problems (hot & cold), have you set up your TPS as per the D jet service manual? Aside from the switch that opens and closes as you rotate the switch, I vaguely recall that there is a switch that has to go closed when the throttle is shut off. This puts the D jet into idle control mode. If the throttle stop screw has been adjusted and that switch is no longer closing then you end up with a condition where the engine will not hold a steady idle speed. If the wires inside the TPS break (solder joint fractures) you suffer from the same problem.

      The temp sensor at the front near the idle air control valve controls temperature sensitive enrichment so no surprise that a faulty sensor will bugger up cold running. If possible, check the resistance of the sensor circuit at the plug connector on the D jet. If there is a significant discrepancy between what you measure there and what you measure at the sensor then you may have a wiring deterioration issue that you need to address. On my 1971 all the wiring on the harness to the injectors and the CLT senor had become hard with cracking insulation just past the bend where it comes up from the firewall and runs along the fuel rail. The wiring on the first 10 cm from the TPS connector and Intake air temp sensor suffered from the same cracking / flaking problem. The cracked / missing insulation resulted in intermittent bad / non operation.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    36. #69
      Junior Member mathue's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Location
      Dublin CA
      Posts
      62
      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      Well I went all out and did something stupid today.. I bought a b30 engine that just happens to be wrapped in some other Volvo oddness to be the new 142 stable mate.


      used-1975-volvo-c303-tgb11-8031-17745044-2-1024.jpg
      Aww yah, a C303! I'd love to get one of those!

    37. #70
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Location
      Helena, AL
      Posts
      183
      Spent the past week working on the 142 finally giving it some much needed TLC. A cooling system rebuild on my b30 proved to be a pain in the butt eating up three full months of weekends. Since then I have been working on replacing vacuum lines on the b20 and plan to do some more djet diagnostics this weekend. What I have found is the AAV causes the vehicle to hunt at idle so I plugged the top port and the vehicle runs much better at initial start up. It has also reduced the frequency of warm idle hunting. I tried to clean the AAV but it did not change a thing. I did drive it about 25/30 miles yesterday and after 15 miles about 50% of the time at a red light or at a stop it would start to hunt again. I tried to determine if it was under hard braking or if there was something else I was doing that was causing this but I still have a leaking booster which I know affects idle so I am tempted to just bite the bullet and get a replacement so that is past me.

      I've been told that it's $500 to send the booster off and have rebuilt but also VP autoparts has one for the b20e but I am not sure as I remember there were two different types for the 142e? Maybe I am remembering incorrectly??

      Still, my b20 is worn as it emits a constant grey smoke which is more pronounced when taking off from a stand still so I have some questionable internal wear (I've known this for some time). It does smoke a bit more than it did before I had parked it for 10 months so perhaps it will improve a little with use...or worsen.

      I set my TPS as best as I could from the Djet manual but have not inspected my wiring loom yet at the injectors, tps, map sensor or any other location. I did have to repair the condenser wire to my coil as it was about to crap itself. I have no hot start issues now the forward temperature sensor remedied that as stated a while back.

      Let me also ask this. What causes a stumble at return to idle after revving? I have noticed that after a hard rev the engine will stumble as the revs seems dip too low before it tries to recover and normalize back to where it is set at idle.
      Last edited by Brandom; 04-17-2019 at 02:02 PM.

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