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    Thread: Julien's R

    1. #1
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Julien's R

      I have a thing for buying cars that need love, typically e30s , miatas and few VWs as well. The other day I stumbled on a cheap e30 m3 for sale on craigslist that didn't run (still $28k) and decided that fiscal responsibility > an e30 m3. So I did the next best thing.. ask the guy if I could come over and get his m3 running for him



      When I got there I noticed he also had an R that had been parked almost as long as the m3 (3-4 years). I didn't know much about these but I have two buddies in Charlotte that love theirs (Hi Eamonn & Ian ). I decided to convince the owner to let me buy the R because I needed a new daily (Auto for LA traffic) and it seemed like a fun project. He had just replaced the 4C shocks before parking it, which was nice.

      Here she is the day I picked her up.

      Before moving her I did an oil change and bled the brakes as the pedal went to the floor.

      After that was a quick trip to American/Discount tire for a set of DWs06 (or whatever their version of that tire is.. contact pro sport something)


      I brought her home with a moving permit (CA thing) to get her readiness monitors set. In the meantime she got a light wetsand in some problematic areas and a full rubbing compound/polish/wax


      The paint sucks in some areas (clearcoat failure) but she came out ok.. Installed my roof rack to cover the bad patch on the roof




      The hood has bird dropping clear damage, which is annoying. I'm hoping to pick up used hood at some point or maybe get the roof


      In the meantime I installed a GROM unit for bluetooth


      One commute to Anaheim and back and she was ready for SMOG! Well evap hadn't set yet, but that's allowed


      Next was getting her titled and new sticker

      (i covered a 2013 sticker with the '18 )

      Anyways. Now it was time to address some serious differed maintenance and warped rotors. I placed two orders, one with IPD for timing belt/wp/drivetrain fluids and one with BMA (local) for brake pads/rotors/gas cap)

      Random pic in Beverly Hills


      Last edited by Julien; 06-11-2018 at 12:42 AM.

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    3. #2
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Hovercrafted her to install brakes and later check the AWD function


      Swapped out a HID ballast


      Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Filters (Cabin, Air, Fuel)


      2001 date stamp water pump




      Replace Inner CV Boot



      At this point I felt a lot better about the general shape of the car but performance wise it still felt... lacking. Having been in the VW/BMW world for many years I knew
      How Important good diagnostic software is, so I pulled the trigger on VIDA right away (what a pain that is to get installed - ugh).


      Intake leaks... "great" I thought. Lucky for me, they turned out to be two loose vacuum lines. One to the intake manifold, one off the sucking jet pump below the cover (behind the driver headlight)

      I noticed these leaks when doing a drain and fill on the transmission. Took ~3.75 qts out, put about 4qts in.


      Car feels noticeably faster and the transmission shifts worlds better super happy about that. Really like driving this car so far, auto and all. Next step is to see how she does over the following few weeks (I got all the above accomplished in one week - I'm beat) and perhaps get a Tune and the torque limiting removed. Oh I forgot I still have to do the Angle Gear and Haldex Fluids (filter) at some point, argh.



      Last edited by Julien; 06-11-2018 at 12:37 AM.

    4. #3
      Banner Advertiser George @ ViVA's Avatar
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      Congrats on your R purchase! I see you’re in SoCal as well. I have 05 S60R in Flash Green. We should plan a local meet up soon!
      George - ViVA Performance
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    6. #4
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      cool story i actually read the whole thing...welcome to ss.
      2000 Toyota Tacoma
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    7. #5
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      Not afraid of spending money when needed? You’ll love an R! Welcome!
      Exponents kill
      Elsa: 2004 V70R Silver Metallic&Nordkap Back from Valhalla @ 357,098 miles

    8. #6
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by George @ ViVA View Post
      Congrats on your R purchase! I see you’re in SoCal as well. I have 05 S60R in Flash Green. We should plan a local meet up soon!
      Nice! Is there a local (facebook?) Volvo R group? If not, should we start one for all 4 of us?


      Quote Originally Posted by dougy View Post
      cool story i actually read the whole thing...welcome to ss.
      Thanks!

      Quote Originally Posted by Hounddogger View Post
      Not afraid of spending money when needed? You’ll love an R! Welcome!
      Well, got the car for cheap, now I'm approaching market value with these repairs. In my mind I'll have a nicely sorted example for the price of a craigslist/ buy here/pay here special. Hope that other than maybe the PCV the repair train has left the station for some time.

    9. #7
      Junior Member Nudibranch's Avatar
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      Great read! Went down great with a morning coffee here in wet winter NZ. Glad you're giving her a new lease on life. Wife has her grubby hands all over my baby today. I swear if she doesn't treat her right.....


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      '06 S60R Electric Silver

    10. #8
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      Wow that was super awesome of you - What was wrong with the M3?
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    11. #9
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nudibranch View Post
      Great read! Went down great with a morning coffee here in wet winter NZ. Glad you're giving her a new lease on life. Wife has her grubby hands all over my baby today. I swear if she doesn't treat her right.....


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Haha, mine hasn't driven the volvo yet, so she doesn't know

      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Wow that was super awesome of you - What was wrong with the M3?
      No spark/fuel. Ended up tracing everything back to the main relay/factory alarm module and DME. Once I got fuel/spark it ran on starter fluid so we topped off the old gas up with fresh 91 and I did a quick back flush on the injectors with brake parts cleaner (they got new orings too). On the next visit (when I picked up the volvo) I addressed brakes... it was a tough one as the system kept clogging itself up during a pressure bleed. The driver side got so bad I actually swapped the caliper over to the pass side, filled up the piston with brake fluid and then swapped it back to the driver side to back flush the system by compressing the piston. The dirt came out eventually, It looked like a rusty milk shake. Poor thing.


      BTW I recently moved to LA from San Mateo

    12. #10
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      Welcome to SS! You seem to know what you are doing when it comes to cars, which is good when you own an R . Us SoCal R owners are a small but mighty group, which means whenever you see another R you are even more excited (I have only seen 3 R's this past year). It's always great to see another R get put back onto the road, and hopefully your's will treat you good.

    13. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by Julien View Post
      No spark/fuel. Ended up tracing everything back to the main relay/factory alarm module and DME. Once I got fuel/spark it ran on starter fluid so we topped off the old gas up with fresh 91 and I did a quick back flush on the injectors with brake parts cleaner (they got new orings too). On the next visit (when I picked up the volvo) I addressed brakes... it was a tough one as the system kept clogging itself up during a pressure bleed. The driver side got so bad I actually swapped the caliper over to the pass side, filled up the piston with brake fluid and then swapped it back to the driver side to back flush the system by compressing the piston. The dirt came out eventually, It looked like a rusty milk shake. Poor thing.

      BTW I recently moved to LA from San Mateo
      Nice work. I actually might have to move to LA soon. Any suggested areas to look for a place to live for someone who has 4 cars and wrenches on them?
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

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      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Nice work. I actually might have to move to LA soon. Any suggested areas to look for a place to live for someone who has 4 cars and wrenches on them?
      You might have trouble finding a place in LA with enough space for 4 cars, so I would recommend moving to the OC. Houses are (slightly) cheaper, most have 2 or 3 car garages, and the commute is not that bad. Of course, if you are working in LA, a commute might not be the best option, however if you want to live around LA, you can't beat Orange County.

    15. #13
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Nice work. I actually might have to move to LA soon. Any suggested areas to look for a place to live for someone who has 4 cars and wrenches on them?
      Tough to get that in LA. Where would work be?

      Quote Originally Posted by OwenB View Post
      You might have trouble finding a place in LA with enough space for 4 cars, so I would recommend moving to the OC. Houses are (slightly) cheaper, most have 2 or 3 car garages, and the commute is not that bad. Of course, if you are working in LA, a commute might not be the best option, however if you want to live around LA, you can't beat Orange County.
      That or the Valley

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      Quote Originally Posted by Julien View Post
      Tough to get that in LA. Where would work be?
      Hollywood
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    17. #15
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Nice work. I actually might have to move to LA soon. Any suggested areas to look for a place to live for someone who has 4 cars and wrenches on them?
      Quote Originally Posted by OwenB View Post
      You might have trouble finding a place in LA with enough space for 4 cars, so I would recommend moving to the OC. Houses are (slightly) cheaper, most have 2 or 3 car garages, and the commute is not that bad. Of course, if you are working in LA, a commute might not be the best option, however if you want to live around LA, you can't beat Orange County.
      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Hollywood
      You'll either have to A) spend lots of money on rent B) Street Park C) Live in the Valley to have 4 cars indoors

    18. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by Julien View Post
      You'll either have to A) spend lots of money on rent B) Street Park C) Live in the Valley to have 4 cars indoors
      In essence, living near LA is going to be a challenge no matter what! Yay SoCal!!!

      PS, no matter where you choose to live there will be ungodly amounts of traffic for no reason whatsoever.

    19. #17
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      When you say "the Valley" what do you mean?
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    20. #18
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Nice work. I actually might have to move to LA soon. Any suggested areas to look for a place to live for someone who has 4 cars and wrenches on them?
      Quote Originally Posted by OwenB View Post
      You might have trouble finding a place in LA with enough space for 4 cars, so I would recommend moving to the OC. Houses are (slightly) cheaper, most have 2 or 3 car garages, and the commute is not that bad. Of course, if you are working in LA, a commute might not be the best option, however if you want to live around LA, you can't beat Orange County.
      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      When you say "the Valley" what do you mean?
      The large residential area above bel air/beverly hills/dtla including sherman oaks, reseda, canoga park, van nuys etc... also the origin of the term "valley girl"
      https://www.google.com/maps/place/Sa...4d-118.4396756
      Last edited by Julien; 06-12-2018 at 09:34 PM.

    21. #19
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      I recently swapped the master brake cylinder, pads and rotors and still have a soft-ish pedal. Anyone have any ideas? I bleed her with 15PSI on my pressure bleeder and activate the ABS pump via VIDA. Brakes got this way from the car sitting.

    22. #20
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Julien View Post
      I recently swapped the master brake cylinder, pads and rotors and still have a soft-ish pedal. Anyone have any ideas? I bleed her with 15PSI on my pressure bleeder and activate the ABS pump via VIDA. Brakes got this way from the car sitting.
      Brake vacuum pump? Or a messed up connection there?
      Exponents kill
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    23. #21
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      Nice find and welcome to SS. Had I done my homework, I would have pulled the trigger on an '88 M3 and not cared about the ratty interior and general lack of care given to the car. Asking price for that particular car was $8k back in 1994. Kick myself every time I see one now.
      Last edited by tired95855; 06-24-2018 at 08:31 PM.
      2006 VR, Electric Silver/Nordkap

    24. #22
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tired95855 View Post
      Nice find and welcome to SS. Had I done my homework, I would have pulled the trigger on an '88 M3 and not cared about the ratty interior and general lack of care given to the car. Asking price for that particular car was $8k back in 1994. Kick myself every time I see one now.
      Yeah but keeping an m3 on the road and in good shape for 25 years would have cost a pretty penny too.
      Last edited by Julien; 06-26-2018 at 06:06 PM.

    25. #23
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      I just recently came back from an awesome 2-week trip to Europe where I got to drive some amazing roads. My brother, who lives in Brussels, and I took his (tuned) Fiat 500 Abarth across europe and back in just a handful of days.
      This nimble little car, paired with it's Akrapovič-enhanced growl motivated me to do some more mods to the Volvo

      Our 4-day, 2500km trip to see old friends and family. Stops were in Sion, Cuneo & St Tropez.


      Here she is right on the French/Italian Border:


      I got to shopping the night before I flew back so most of the goodies would be there shortly after my arrival. On the shopping list was a (used) elebate exhaust, New IPD PCV kit, Turbo Inlet and Do




      First job was to tackle the PCV system since my car failed the glove test and would pop out the dip-stick under heavy load. Thanks to FCP's awesome video this job turned out to be pretty easy (sorry I bought the kit from IPD, they provided norma torro hose clamps vs the oe pinch ones)

      Intake off


      New, OE PCV installed


      Trash Pile


      And finally, back together. Check out that glove, it used to look like a wacky inflatable tube man!!


      I installed the IPD turbo inlet pipe when the PCV was done. Oh dear god that was not fun. Took me as much time to install the turbo inlet as the pcv. I did, however love the results.


      Next up was installing the Do88 intercooler.

      Bumper off:


      Clean out the old radiator and AC condenser:


      Comparison of old vs new:


      Zip-tied together for reinstallation:


      Slowly repositioning everything in place and getting the radiator to condenser bolts in place:


      And.. Done! I also repainted the fog light surrounds to clean up the front end a bit:


      A few days later I finally got around to repainting the side trim of the car.



      Final Product:

      I can't believe how much of a difference it makes!


      And finally... the exhaust:


      Side-by-side shot:


      Video (not sure this'll work)


      Overall I'm very happy with the results. Car pulls much harder in the higher gears. I would say that she is now a solid stage "0" car. My next step is to either do a full blown tune or just remove the tq limiter on the auto trans and go from there.


      Cheers

    26. #24
      Moderator The Driver's Avatar
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      Looks good!
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    27. #25
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      Quote Originally Posted by The Driver View Post
      Looks good!
      Agreed!! Nice to hear about the PCV. I'm needing to do mine soon.
      2007 SapphiCama V70R 400K+/Km
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    28. #26
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      After a few laps around the neighborhood I felt like the exhaust had found it's final position, so I adjusted the tip:


    29. #27
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      Awesome job! Glad you're enjoying it and treating it well!

      PCV is on my short list too.

    30. #28
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      Nice job. Keep building her

    31. #29
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      I've been dreading this repair..... The exhaust manifold gasket. Mine has been making noise on cold start-up and high boost since I bought the car. Since there are no DIY's online how to do this, I wanted to post how I went about doing it.



      s60r & v70r exhaust manifold gasket DIY


      Parts needed:
      V40 one piece exhaust manifold gasket: 8699467
      Turbo oil feed oil gasket: 30677842
      Turbo oil drain oil gasket: 30650296
      Turbo Drain to Block O-ring: 31251439
      Turbo to manifold gasket: 8642450
      Downpipe Gasket: 8642449
      (1) Smaller Clamp for rear coolant pipe.

      Optional:
      New Exhaust Manifold Nuts: 977211 (x10)

      Tools & Supplies:
      Regular hand tools
      Selection of smaller vis-grips,
      12point 12mm box end wrench
      1/4 and 3/8 drive extensions and wobble joints
      PB Plaster
      A small hand-held Mirror
      Brake parts Cleaner
      Jack & Jack Stand

      Process:
      1. Remove OTE (over the engine) turbo pipe and remove engine top brace
      2. Remove clamp for Turbo Inlet Pipe (7mm) and push out of the way.
      3. Disconnect Metal Coolant pipe from hose above manifold (1 clamp).
      4. Remove both heat shields off turbo. The ones with the springs were very tough on mine, put some PB Blaster on them first
      5. Spray the entirety of the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe Nuts with PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrant) and go eat lunch, I recommend tacos.
      6. Remove all (10) exhaust manifold nuts and washers. Some of them might come out with the stud, that's OK. Put 2 nuts back on to temporally hold manifold in place
      7. Remove (3) down pipe bolts, push downpipe aside
      8. Remove (4) Turbo Bolts. The top two are easy, the bottom passenger is somewhat annoying the bottom driver nut is very annoying. This is were the 12 point 12mm comes in handy. Once you break the bottom bolts loose, a 1/4 drive fits down there! I reached the driver bottom bolt by looping my arm from the top of the motor, around the turbo and back up. You might have better luck from the bottom ymmv.
      9. Disconnect Turbo oil feed line (2) T30 Torx
      10. Disconnect Turbo return line (2) T30 Torx.
      10.5 Remove the little bracket below the turbo that hold the supply and return line together and pull pipe out of the block/way. ***I didn't do this step but looking back it would have made my life easier.
      11. Loose the two temp bolts you have holding the exhaust manifold to the turbo.
      12. Pry the turbo off from the exhaust manifold. Don't be excessive though.
      13. Using your narrow vis grips remove the (4) studs that hold the turbo. Grip them at the middle where there are no threads. ***I had to do this because I didn't have enough clearance. Removing your turbo oil return line might give you the wiggle room you need. Again YMMV.
      14. Now you should be able to wiggle the exhaust manifold out
      15. Using your mirror make sure you get all the old bits of exhaust manifold gasket out of the way. They are made of several layers and typically delaminate
      16. Mock up your V40 one-piece gasket and Note were it needs to be cut or bent (see picture)

      Few notes for reassembly.
      1. Make sure to loosely assemble the turbo to manifold before bolting anything down
      2. Reinstall the turbo drain when everything is a bit loose, put new seals on.
      3. Clean everything with brake parts cleaner
      4. Go back over the bolts you tighten several times as your crush the new MLS (multi-layer-steel) Gasket.
      5. Refill any coolant you may have lost
      6. Check for leaks when it's all back together and running at idle.
      7. Enjoy the lack of TINK TINK TINK at cold idle

      Pictures:



      Exhaust manifold with old blown out gaskets and the 1-piece replacement.



      You can see (top right) where the new 1-piece gasket hits the coolant passage.


      I ended up bending mine. Not sure I recommend this, use your judgement. Cutting might be cleaner if you don't deform the gasket while cutting it.


      Make sure you check the orientation of the new gasket first. I had to flip mine around a few times.

      Anyways, best of luck!
      Last edited by Julien; 07-31-2018 at 05:14 PM.

    32. #30
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      You don't need any of those seals... Just the one piece exhaust manifold gasket and an angle grinder or tin snips. You only need the thing to move 1/4"...
      Exponents kill
      Elsa: 2004 V70R Silver Metallic&Nordkap Back from Valhalla @ 357,098 miles

    33. #31
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Hounddogger View Post
      You don't need any of those seals... Just the one piece exhaust manifold gasket and an angle grinder or tin snips. You only need the thing to move 1/4"...
      That is if you want to remove 10 studs out of the head. From what I read they are prone to cracking in the head plus since there isn't a whole lot of room down there I rather spend the $15 on gaskets and seals and do it this way *shrug*
      Last edited by Julien; 07-31-2018 at 07:14 PM.

    34. #32
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Time to take a road trip with the Volvo!


      My girlfriend works remotely for a company in the bay area. Every few weeks she has to go in person for a few days. With Highway 1 reopening around Big Sur we decided it would be a great road trip for us! So we left early Sunday morning to embark on our little adventure. Before we could leave the Volvo decided to spring a few oil leaks. Some larger than others

      After some poking around under her I noticed one was coming from the recently replaced PCV area, so around 5 PM on Saturday I decide to pull the intake manifold off and take a look.



      Here is what I found, the hose that connects the PCV box to the block had a tiny hole where the clamp lived. I thought to myself that I had overtightened it. I trimmed a small section of it off and called it a day.





      I knew the car was still leaking a bit of oil from the turbo oil return line but it didn't seem like much when I was letting the car idle in the air. With a spare gallon of oil we headed up the PCH (aka Highway 1)!





      Saw some breathtaking scenery






      And had lots and lots of fun with the Volvo!!


      What did bug me, though is how bad it smelled of oil when under load/boost. Once in SF I decided to talk to one of my buddies who knew a shop where I could put her up in the air and have a look.



      I made a deal with the tech to replace the oil drain line gasket to be on the safe side.


      Of course the gasket I had ordered was the wrong one (i updated the part number above), so I made one:



      Took her for a test drive and smoke everywhere! Again no visible oil leak at idle but the whole back of the motor was coated with oil

      At this point we decided to power-brake her (ie generate boost) on the lift and see where the oil came from. It was *gushing* out of the turbo to block drain port The tech and I talked and came to the conclusion my PCV system was not working properly as the crank case pressure was way too high (causing the oil to spill out). This was odd as the PCV passed the "glove test" with flying colors, so pressures were good at idle.

      I did some research and found a post that mentioned the PCV system uses a different routing at idle and on boost. The "on boost" circuit ties into the turbo inlet. AHA! That made sense, I had to kink the line to install the new IPD turbo Inlet. Anyways, I popped my dipstick out (to temporarily relieve crank case pressure) a bit for the drive to get my GF and get to the hotel. As we approached the hotel, coolant light came on

      Yep - 3" crack down the side of the radiator
      Last edited by Julien; 09-06-2018 at 11:32 AM.

    35. #33
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Luckily the same shop let me buy a replacement radiator through their wholesale account with reasonable markup. I picked it up the next day via LYFT


      The box was so large it barely fit in the back seat of the lyft

      Went shopping for water to limp car to where I'd work on her


      At this point I reached out to another friend of mine, Dmitry, who has a shared work space in the bay for his lemons team. Luckily someone was going to be there from 2pm on that day and I could use their lift.

      https://media.giphy.com/media/uTuLngvL9p0Xe/giphy.gif

      Here she is a few hours in:


      Radiator replaced, I decided to address the problem with the kinked PCV hose, which required trimming the IPD turbo inlet pipe. I also trimmed the diverter valve hose, as I don't see myself getting IPD's OTE pipe:


      Finally I also dropped my down pipe to have the top flange welded. I noticed after my exhaust manifold gasket replacement I still had a leak Using a towel to cover different areas around the manifold I was able to pinpoint the location. Luckily my buddy welded her up for me!


      Lastly I swapped out my turbo drain gasket with one that I had ordered the day before. All said and done I finished up around 11:45

      The next morning I took a quick trip to the local parts store to check trans fluid



      And that was that Drove home in 100+ degree heat, at 80MPH for 6 hours with no problems at all.


      Divisadero street in SF.


      The moral of the story is, old cars are more fun and adventurous on road trips than new ones... if you have good friends, spare tools, and time

      Big thanks to Klas, Nick and Dmitry!
      Last edited by Julien; 08-04-2018 at 12:26 AM.

    36. #34
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Julien View Post
      That is if you want to remove 10 studs out of the head. From what I read they are prone to cracking in the head plus since there isn't a whole lot of room down there I rather spend the $15 on gaskets and seals and do it this way *shrug*
      Uhhhhh no. 9/10 studs come with the nuts... 1 may decide to stay... That is the case each time I have done this. In that case you double nut it and call it a day... I've done this like a dozen times on all manner of whiteblocks...


      Also I hope you didn't pay more than $120 for that radiator... And for future reference the easiest way to do a radiator is from the top. Remove the bumper, core support and bingo bango right there don't even have to jack it up. Did you use the updated PCV banjo bolt?

      I assume you kinked it at the PTC element?
      Exponents kill
      Elsa: 2004 V70R Silver Metallic&Nordkap Back from Valhalla @ 357,098 miles

    37. #35
      Junior Member Julien's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Hounddogger View Post
      Uhhhhh no. 9/10 studs come with the nuts... 1 may decide to stay... That is the case each time I have done this. In that case you double nut it and call it a day... I've done this like a dozen times on all manner of whiteblocks...


      Also I hope you didn't pay more than $120 for that radiator... And for future reference the easiest way to do a radiator is from the top. Remove the bumper, core support and bingo bango right there don't even have to jack it up. Did you use the updated PCV banjo bolt?

      I assume you kinked it at the PTC element?
      Hounddogger,
      I appreciate your constructive criticism, it allows me to better learn and understand the P2R platform as well as other platforms. I'm familiar with several other cars but there is certainly a learning curve. A few thoughts I wanted to share with you in regards to the decision making process on these repairs:

      1. Exhaust manifold gasket. You sure seem to have a handle on this one, perhaps write a DIY? Taking the head studs out came to mind but I was warned by another Volvo enthusiast that I'd run into issues. Only 2 studs came out on mine. Also, from what I read the turbo oil drain gasket is a wear item on these, perhaps it's good to knock out two birds with one stone?

      2. I paid a little north of $175 for the Nissens radiator. The shop I used didn't have a low discount tier with Worldpac but were nice enough to only put a small markup (their cost was ~$150) but was able to get it within 2 hours. Not sure where else I could have gotten a part that quick for a reasonable price. My only other WP hookup was out of town

      3. I searched quite a bit to see if there was an easier way to pull out the radiator but couldn't find any. Perhaps another great moment for you to share your wealth of knowledge with the community. I don't see how I could have slid mine out from the top *shrug*

      4. Yep, at the PTC, I had to trim the turbo inlet to get it to fit right.

      5. Yes new banjo bolt from IPD's OE PCV kit.

      Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge even if it comes across a little snide.. I am a low-post-count noob, right?

      Glad you're enjoying my post

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