The new guy on the block's NA V70 introduction
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    1. #1
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      The new guy on the block's NA V70 introduction

      Hello!

      I have been a LONGGGGGG time lurker, read hundreds of pages of all of yours work, and I have always wanted to input something, so here is my shot. Some context is that I come from the realm of redblocks, drove a far from mint 240 for a long while in high school



      But after my first two years in college I knew that I would need something more practical (think in terms of power windows and air conditioning not usable storage space) that could also reliably carry me not only too and from my Co-op 60 miles a day but also between Minneapolis and Milwaukee whenever I return home. Enter my NA M56 V70, Rita. This is the day I drove it home, I got it with 99k miles on it, it now has just under 105k. Although the PO noted a mileage discrepancy where the carfax indicates it has ~140k, didn't really bother me because I knew I would replace every wear item within the year.



      This is after a soft stage 0 (plug wires, cap & rotor, oil change with Rotella T6) and a TPS to solve a nasty misfiring issue. I then revamped the PCV, tossed on the upper engine rear torque mount that the PO included in the sale. I then got some AWESOME roof bars and a cargo topper, feat. my dad and I's shared winter wheels for break (I'm not home during majority of the winter)



      Then I got the coveted rear wing, and color matched it with spray paint from a local NAPA. I continued to revamp the front brakes and suspension; new front pads, rotors and drivers side caliper, both control arms and a clapped out drivers side outer tie rod. I also commandeered my dad's old P2 T5 rims, bought cheapo firestone tires and proceded to autocross on them.






      That brings it to this afternoon. I changed my oil with T6 again, there was a rather concerning lack of oil (only 4.5 quarts, although the filter was still full). I also put the hatch trim panel back on after I put the metal tabs to reinforce it. Although I am missing the plastic trim that shattered when I took the panel off originally.



      Before


      After




      I'll end this first post off with a couple questions; I have a p0455 code that I believe is either the J Evap hose, the gas cap seal, or the purge valve. I've also been getting around 22.5 MPG which I think is low, will solving this CEL increase my mileage? Also the oil consumption issue; I'll pay closer attention to it this go around, but if it continues should I change oil weights? And finally, my hatch lock seams to bind up against the tailgate when the trim panel is on, has anyone encountered this issue? I can force it open with the key input on the tailgate but its kinda a PITA to do with my arms full of groceries!

      I'm excited to become a part of these legendary forums, and any advice for a kid that has all of an adjustable wrench on campus is incredibly welcome!

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    3. #2
      Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Welcome to the community!

      As for the oil consumption - how many miles were on the oil by the time you had lost ~1.5qts? Keep an eye on it every few hundred miles to get a sense of the rate that's it's consuming/leaking oil
      Last edited by sventastic; 08-02-2018 at 03:33 AM.
      1996 854R | M56H | 16T | 263k

    4. #3
      Junior Member kampman's Avatar
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      1.5 quarts isn't a big deal if it's over 5000 miles (though obviously you'll want to monitor it and top up as needed). If it's over a shorter interval there might be issues. Resolving whatever's causing the P0455 probably won't make any difference to your gas mileage. 22.5MPG might be a little low depending on the ratio of city to highway driving you do but I wouldn't say that it's out of the ordinary for these cars, even the NA models. Welcome to the board!
      1966 220: dormant project
      1999 S70 #base: 192K
      2000 V70R: 135K
      2006 V50 T5M AWD: 147K

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    6. #4
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      Welcome! Gotta love a '98 N/A M56. Im kind of in the same boat as you but now I'm trying to toss a turbo in mine! They're great cars, not super speedy but they definitely get the job done. How did it do in the autocross? I always wanted to do that with mine but I just never found the time. Definitely look into some ipd sway bars if you get the chance, they'll take away loads of body roll! Lowering springs are a bit harder to come by, but the install didn't take long as long as you have buddy with a impact wrench and a few jackstands. Interested to see what you do next!

    7. #5
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      I'm planning on checking the oil level when I fill up and getting a rough quart/hundred mile number to see how scary the oil consumption is. I also ordered a gas cap seal, being the easiest to fix, to see if that remedies my CEL. But as far as driving style goes I'm either driving a block at a time downtown or going 75 on my way to work, so I'll attribute that to the low mileage number if remedying the CEL doesn't increase my mileage!





      As for autocross it was, without hesitation, the MOST FUN I have ever had behind the wheel. Everyone loved the "Race Wagon" and they were amazingly welcoming (The first person to come introduce themselves drove in his Viper ACR). I didn't finish last either! However, the car can most definitely be improved. It was understeer city and the body roll was a little insane, not as bad as the old 240, around a corner. I would really like to refresh the struts and add a rear sway bar but with the 17's I'm apprehensive about how it will affect the ride on the absolute garbage roads in Milwaukee.


      Finally, I am now chasing a new suspension noise. When getting off throttle and engine breaking there is an intermittent rubbing noise. I'm thinking it is a sad wheel bearing because of the intermittent nature, and have softly ruled out the brakes also because of that same reason (my logic is if it were the brakes whatever was rubbing would have worn away by now). Besides a wheel bearing I can't think of anything that would make such an odd noise, any insight?

    8. #6
      Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Getting new struts and a rear sway bar won't make the ride quality any worse so I wouldn't worry about that. New struts would make it ride better of course, and the larger rear sway hasn't affected ride quality in my experience. It will however, make the car rotate a lot better!

      I don't think the combination of intermittent and on decel would point to a wheel bearing. Wheel bearing ends up more or less constant and should be heard every rotation of the wheel, and be speed-dependent

      How would you describe the rubbing noise? Metal-on-metal, clicking, clacking, grinding?
      Last edited by sventastic; 08-02-2018 at 09:21 PM.
      1996 854R | M56H | 16T | 263k

    9. #7
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zoinks View Post
      "It was understeer city and the body roll was a little insane, not as bad as the old 240, around a corner."
      Welcome to Volvos baked in from the factory safety feature. Good thing its fixable. To reduce understeer you want to firm up the rear end with stiffer springs, more rear sway bar and even add rear spacers to expand the track. Up front you want to lessen the toe (aim for 0.015 degrees each side its just a hair lighter than stock which will make the steering more responsive), add a little negative camber (-0.5 to -1.0 bit no more), solidify the chassis/steering (subframe bracing/bushing) and get a very grippy tire.
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 195k - "O-Three"
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    10. #8
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      How would you describe the rubbing noise? Metal-on-metal, clicking, clacking, grinding?
      The best way I could describe it is what I imagine a loose wheel sounds like, or breaking with a warped rotor. Saying that makes me want to do a bolt check and go from there. But nothing metal on metal, and no clicking so that *knock on wood* rules out the CV Joints.

      In terms of racing; I want to first replace the struts (I'm going to read up on factory paint codes for springs and see where that takes me in terms of lowering) because I'm never confident in the previous owners abilities to keep up on maintenance and the only way to raise my confidence is to spend money! After the refreshed struts I'd like to invest in a thicker rear sway, to battle the understeer, and then a strut bar, to help deal with the torque steer that I get despite being NA.

      *Under*steering away from the race oriented improvements, before winter hits I really want a set of XC mudflaps, and while I'm at it I might as well get an eggcrate too! There's a great salvage yard that is owned by Volvo enthusiasts on the way to MN that I'll have to stop by next time I drive home.

    11. #9
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      It's not torque steer. Just a sloppy front end. I can floor it in my t5 with my hands off the wheel and it goes strait.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 195k - "O-Three"
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    12. #10
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      I stand corrected! Would it be tie rod related? I'm sure if I replaced the inners they would be all sorts of floppy and clapped out.

    13. #11
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zoinks View Post
      I stand corrected! Would it be tie rod related? I'm sure if I replaced the inners they would be all sorts of floppy and clapped out.
      Inners, outers, ball joints/control arm bushings (it's all one piece), subframe bushings. By age all of these cars are a mess front end wise unless it's all been done recently.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 195k - "O-Three"
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    14. #12
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ScottishBrick View Post
      Inners, outers, ball joints/control arm bushings (it's all one piece), subframe bushings.
      I've done both control arms and the drivers side outer tie rod. Next on my list are all the other tie rods, both endlinks, and now the subframe bushings (IIRC was it you Scottish that swears by Delrin bushings?). As well as the timing belt, and all other associated accessories, because the mileage discrepancy is always in the back of my head when I drive.

    15. #13
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zoinks View Post
      I've done both control arms and the drivers side outer tie rod. Next on my list are all the other tie rods, both endlinks, and now the subframe bushings (IIRC was it you Scottish that swears by Delrin bushings?). As well as the timing belt, and all other associated accessories, because the mileage discrepancy is always in the back of my head when I drive.
      Yup, delrin is chassis magic. Good call on the T belt, might as well do it all while you're in there (tensioner, idler, wp).
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 195k - "O-Three"
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    16. #14
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Im running a 22mm rear sway bar, 21mm stock front bar, delrin, new LCAs, new delta link bushings, 15mm rear spacers, ipd rear springs w/ bilstein touring shocks an its a very composed and just the faintest oversteer capable setup.
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 195k - "O-Three"
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    17. #15
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      So I changed the gas cap seal this past weekend



      Cleared the codes and thought I remedied the CEL! But alas it popped back on when I left work on Monday so the J Hose and Purge Valve are officially on the list of repairs when I return home next. As for the mysterious noise up front, its still there and I'm still at a loss as to what it could be. I want to get that corner in the air and see if there's play at all in any of the suspension components and start digging around to see if I can get to the bottom of it!

    18. #16
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      I went through the same thing chasing the cause of my CEL. Get under the back end and check the vacuum lines in the gas tank area. I had a cracked one there and replacing it cleared my code, haven't had the CEL in months.

    19. #17
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by SwedishISH View Post
      I went through the same thing chasing the cause of my CEL. Get under the back end and check the vacuum lines in the gas tank area. I had a cracked one there and replacing it cleared my code, haven't had the CEL in months.
      I'm planning on inspecting back there this weekend, hopefully will find the issue. But I haven't had very much luck in finding any pictures of the actual hose/assembly. Is it rather obvious what I'll be looking for once I stick my head under the car?

    20. #18
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      Yes, it will be right there kind of centrally under the spare tire well. You may have to peek around a bit but it will not be hard to spot. Let me know if you have trouble finding it and I can take a pic of it on my car for you. Good luck.

    21. #19
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      I attended another autocross event last weekend, my third time out and I can safely say I've caught the bug. Nothing on any roads around me can even come close to compete, add in the possibility of a ticket (or jail time) and autocross is where I'll be sacrificing my tires from now on! A buddy who knows his way around cameras tagged along and got some rad shots throughout the event too. But there were a couple that got my attention;






      This whole "heaving a station wagon around tight corners" look isn't my favorite so I am officially on the hunt for a rear sway bar. It's the best bang for buck option especially because my struts don't need help yet and that means an upgrade for them is far far away. But on the bright side I have a sizable box waiting for me when I get home labor day weekend. The timing belt, water pump, associated tensioners and idlers, evap system, and sway bar end links are getting serviced!! I can't wait to get the TB out of the way and put my nerves at ease. I will also be futher investigating that hanging wire you can see in the last 2 pictures. I couldn't find the end of it from the engine bay, but it doesn't seem to be an OEM wire, it's like IPD blue, which had me stumped.

    22. #20
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zoinks View Post


      I attended another autocross event last weekend, my third time out and I can safely say I've caught the bug. Nothing on any roads around me can even come close to compete, add in the possibility of a ticket (or jail time) and autocross is where I'll be sacrificing my tires from now on! A buddy who knows his way around cameras tagged along and got some rad shots throughout the event too. But there were a couple that got my attention;






      This whole "heaving a station wagon around tight corners" look isn't my favorite so I am officially on the hunt for a rear sway bar. It's the best bang for buck option especially because my struts don't need help yet and that means an upgrade for them is far far away. But on the bright side I have a sizable box waiting for me when I get home labor day weekend. The timing belt, water pump, associated tensioners and idlers, evap system, and sway bar end links are getting serviced!! I can't wait to get the TB out of the way and put my nerves at ease. I will also be futher investigating that hanging wire you can see in the last 2 pictures. I couldn't find the end of it from the engine bay, but it doesn't seem to be an OEM wire, it's like IPD blue, which had me stumped.
      9191462

      Volvo oem 21.8mm rear sway bar. Half the price of ipd and a 20 minutiae install instead of 2 hours.



      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 195k - "O-Three"
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    23. #21
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ScottishBrick View Post
      9191462

      Volvo oem 21.8mm rear sway bar. Half the price of ipd and a 20 minutiae install instead of 2 hours.
      That is surprisingly affordable... I was just planning on scouring used parts forums until one/a set popped up. The install looks so straight forward I might even order that to my campus apartment!

    24. #22
      Member sventastic's Avatar
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      The 25mm bar is worth saving up for since these cars need everything possible to get the ass end around, but I haven't seen it on IPD's website for a couple months now
      1996 854R | M56H | 16T | 263k

    25. #23
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      Bad news bears. . . Got into my first accident yesterday I got rear ended while driving back to Minnesota. I was stopped in stop and go traffic and a (presumably distracted but I don't want to jump to conclusions) girl rear ended me at about 30-35 mph. The air fresheners in my vents ended up in my back seat! Both myself and the other driver are totally fine.



      My trailer hitch punctured her radiator, but the hitch didn't seem to move at all, which makes me feel better in terms of frame damage. Her crash bar split my bumper, the sides of which are crumpled. The bumper also pushed in both of the rear fender liners and cracked them up pretty good. The hatch is also misaligned and rubs the upper drivers side tail light assembly.

      Overall I'm more shaken up about loosing this car that I've put a boatload of time and money into than getting into my first accident. So let the preemptive car shopping begin!

    26. #24
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      It's probably not totaled. Get a quote, take the money and then get new bumper brackets.
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 195k - "O-Three"
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    27. #25
      Senior Member JaredR's Avatar
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      If the quarter panels are straight and the panel gap is good with the rear doors 99% chance you don't have frame damage. Roofline looks straight to me so that's an excellent sign. Crumple zone when crumpled causes the aft end of the roof to bend down. I'm surprised ∆30 mph isn't enough to do it.

      Even so, insurance may still want to total it for the cost of paint. Tell them to take a hike if they do and just grab new stuff at the JY. This is a cheap fix if no frame damage and you can find the parts in 601. Chances are decent that the salvage title would cause you more trouble down the road than their offer would be worth if they totaled it.
      Last edited by JaredR; 09-06-2018 at 12:04 AM.
      1995 850 T-5R Estate. AW50-42LE. Cream Yellow/Graphite. 296k.
      1997 850R Estate. RN/M66D. Bright Red/Graphite. 270k.
      2007 S60 T5. M66W. Black Sapphire/Arena. 136k.

      Past: |1997 855R. Bright Red/Light Beige. AW50-42LE. Totaled by wayward construction equipment. || 1996 854R. Black Stone/Graphite. AW50-42LE. Parts car || 1995 854 TURBO. Polar White/Tan. AW50-42LE. Parts car. |
      Dad: 1997 V70 T5 SE. AW50-42LE. Frost Green/Oak. 212k.Mom: 2004 V70 NA. AW55-50SN Ruby Red/Tan 266k. <--- FOR SALE!!

    28. #26
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ScottishBrick View Post
      It's probably not totaled. Get a quote, take the money and then get new bumper brackets.
      Quote Originally Posted by JaredR View Post
      Even so, insurance may still want to total it for the cost of paint. Tell them to take a hike if they do and just grab new stuff at the JY. This is a cheap fix if no frame damage and you can find the parts in 601. Chances are decent that the salvage title would cause you more trouble down the road than their offer would be worth if they totaled it.
      Good news! The adjuster came through today, who also happens to drives Volvos, and slapped a $3650 NADA value on the ole girl! That means no total loss and a check cut for more than I paid for it. After allocating funds towards getting my sisters Audi back up and running with a new slave cylinder, the insurance check will go towards new bumper brackets, a fuel tank hose to remedy a newly discovered fuel leak, then fun bits! XC mud flaps before winter, an ipd rear sway and an egg crate grille for now. About the rear IPD sway bar, is the one on their website 25mm or am I forced to hunt classifieds for a 25mm rear bar?

      I plan on loosening the mounting bolts to realign the hatch so it doesn't rub through the upper taillights, hopefully that's the correct procedure, I haven't read of another way. Then I'll take the interior panel off the hatch to attempt to pop the dents out. I think I'm going to refrain from getting/repainting a mint bumper (not so sure on the hatch, I hate dents) because this wagon is ultimately a college car for the next 3 years, that is unless I can find an alright 601 bumper (and hatch) for cheap.

    29. #27
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zoinks View Post
      Good news! The adjuster came through today, who also happens to drives Volvos, and slapped a $3650 NADA value on the ole girl! That means no total loss and a check cut for more than I paid for it. After allocating funds towards getting my sisters Audi back up and running with a new slave cylinder, the insurance check will go towards new bumper brackets, a fuel tank hose to remedy a newly discovered fuel leak, then fun bits! XC mud flaps before winter, an ipd rear sway and an egg crate grille for now. About the rear IPD sway bar, is the one on their website 25mm or am I forced to hunt classifieds for a 25mm rear bar?

      I plan on loosening the mounting bolts to realign the hatch so it doesn't rub through the upper taillights, hopefully that's the correct procedure, I haven't read of another way. Then I'll take the interior panel off the hatch to attempt to pop the dents out. I think I'm going to refrain from getting/repainting a mint bumper (not so sure on the hatch, I hate dents) because this wagon is ultimately a college car for the next 3 years, that is unless I can find an alright 601 bumper (and hatch) for cheap.
      IPD only has the 22mm rear bar at the moment. Spend your $ on delrin subframe bushings in the mean time. Nice save btw.
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 195k - "O-Three"
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    30. #28
      Senior Member JaredR's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zoinks View Post
      Good news! The adjuster came through today, who also happens to drives Volvos, and slapped a $3650 NADA value on the ole girl! That means no total loss and a check cut for more than I paid for it. After allocating funds towards getting my sisters Audi back up and running with a new slave cylinder, the insurance check will go towards new bumper brackets, a fuel tank hose to remedy a newly discovered fuel leak, then fun bits! XC mud flaps before winter, an ipd rear sway and an egg crate grille for now. About the rear IPD sway bar, is the one on their website 25mm or am I forced to hunt classifieds for a 25mm rear bar?

      I plan on loosening the mounting bolts to realign the hatch so it doesn't rub through the upper taillights, hopefully that's the correct procedure, I haven't read of another way. Then I'll take the interior panel off the hatch to attempt to pop the dents out. I think I'm going to refrain from getting/repainting a mint bumper (not so sure on the hatch, I hate dents) because this wagon is ultimately a college car for the next 3 years, that is unless I can find an alright 601 bumper (and hatch) for cheap.

      Fantastic news. I'm surprised the valuation was so high. You may find issues in popping the dents out as there is structure inside the tailgate. Also second the suggestion to get Delrin subframe bushings.
      1995 850 T-5R Estate. AW50-42LE. Cream Yellow/Graphite. 296k.
      1997 850R Estate. RN/M66D. Bright Red/Graphite. 270k.
      2007 S60 T5. M66W. Black Sapphire/Arena. 136k.

      Past: |1997 855R. Bright Red/Light Beige. AW50-42LE. Totaled by wayward construction equipment. || 1996 854R. Black Stone/Graphite. AW50-42LE. Parts car || 1995 854 TURBO. Polar White/Tan. AW50-42LE. Parts car. |
      Dad: 1997 V70 T5 SE. AW50-42LE. Frost Green/Oak. 212k.Mom: 2004 V70 NA. AW55-50SN Ruby Red/Tan 266k. <--- FOR SALE!!

    31. #29
      Member volvonewyork's Avatar
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      what brand paint did you use for the wing? checked napaonline.com and dont see it
      NEWYORK

    32. #30
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by volvonewyork View Post
      what brand paint did you use for the wing? checked napaonline.com and dont see it
      There is a NAPA in the MSP area that blends paint in house according to color codes. I couldn't tell you the brand off hand, but it was just a basic single stage rattle can.

    33. #31
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      I'm building a parts list to rebuild the bumper brackets using Tasca Parts as a reference for all of the part numbers. And after mentally preparing myself to deal with Midwest rust I want to see if I'm missing any parts or if there's better ways of doing things. I also plan on a minor creep in the plan to also install XC mudflaps on the rear because I'll be taking out the rivets anyway. I have found the following parts;

      Bumper Mount Bracket PN: 6816114 x2
      Mount Bracket Bolt PN: 982831 x2
      *[Mount Bolt] Washer PN: 986503 x2
      Face Bar Bolt PN: 988182 x4
      *Face Bar Washer PN: 986504 x4
      Fender Liner Rivet PN: 979878 x12 (will also be installing front XC mudflaps and will use the proper rivets there too)

      *Are these two washers interchangeable?

    34. #32
      Senior Member JaredR's Avatar
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      volvopartswebstore has better part lookups
      1995 850 T-5R Estate. AW50-42LE. Cream Yellow/Graphite. 296k.
      1997 850R Estate. RN/M66D. Bright Red/Graphite. 270k.
      2007 S60 T5. M66W. Black Sapphire/Arena. 136k.

      Past: |1997 855R. Bright Red/Light Beige. AW50-42LE. Totaled by wayward construction equipment. || 1996 854R. Black Stone/Graphite. AW50-42LE. Parts car || 1995 854 TURBO. Polar White/Tan. AW50-42LE. Parts car. |
      Dad: 1997 V70 T5 SE. AW50-42LE. Frost Green/Oak. 212k.Mom: 2004 V70 NA. AW55-50SN Ruby Red/Tan 266k. <--- FOR SALE!!

    35. #33
      Junior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by rendly9870 View Post
      Welcome! Gotta love a '98 N/A M56. Im kind of in the same boat as you but now I'm trying to toss a turbo in mine! They're great cars, not super speedy but they definitely get the job done. How did it do in the autocross? I always wanted to do that with mine but I just never found the time. Definitely look into some ipd sway bars if you get the chance, they'll take away loads of body roll! Lowering springs are a bit harder to come by, but the install didn't take long as long as you have buddy with a impact wrench and a few jackstands. Interested to see what you do next!
      Wouldn't it make more sense to start with a Turbo engine there for that, my friend? There are many differences are there not?

    36. #34
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      Quote Originally Posted by ScottishBrick View Post
      9191462

      Volvo oem 21.8mm rear sway bar. Half the price of ipd and a 20 minutiae install instead of 2 hours.



      Nice!

    37. #35
      Junior Member Zoinks's Avatar
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      Project Update!! Unfortunately all of the parts I ordered for the bumper brackets, including the rivets I got for the mudflaps *more on those later*, were back ordered and won't get in for awhile so that will be a project for another time! Annnyyyway;

      I changed both the front sway bar end links, pretty easy expect the nearly seized nuts The end links that I replaced were one or two wear cycles too old. . . This was the easiest part of today.




      Then came the hardest part of the day, the timing belt job. Initially, I knew that I had stripped a timing belt shield bolt so that was what I was looking least forward to. Then I stripped one of the spark plug cover torx bolts too! After I got everything off, I dremmeled the shield bolt down so that I could get the shield off. Then I almost stripped the T45 bolt to the tensioner pulley! But I got everything off, replaced everything, including a leaky WP, buttoned her back together, hand cranked the engine a couple times to make sure there was no interference, and fired her up!







      All done!!


      Now all I have to do is test drive it in the morning and see how much of a difference those endlinks make!

      **About the mudflaps and grille, I was in contact with a guy mildly local to MSP to get everything from a parts car and at $60 total I thought this was a pretty good deal. But he messaged me that another person is interested in taking the entire car. So now I'm hunting for those parts again!

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