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Meet my newest venture into the Volvo world. "Black Swede Steed"

12K views 131 replies 18 participants last post by  JaredR 
#1 ·
Hello all. I just picked up a car I talked about going to check out on the classifieds posts. I went back and forth about it and decided to take a gamble and either learn a lot of good things OR learn why there are not many P80 R's left on the road.

Specs...

2000 V70R, 175k miles. (How many are left at this point?)

The good: Dealer service from new in late 99 thru 2010. Lots of good details from the servicing dealer per the Carfax. I hope to be able to get more by giving them a call. 0 miles to 150k.

The bad: Car was in a hail storm and totalled out by original owners insurance policy. If you saw the photos on the Craigslist (I saved them) it's not that bad IMO.

As far as I can discover there is not any other reason why it was totalled out.

Second owner (Indy Volvo shop) purchased in May 2010 at an Insurance auction and then later that summer in July, a reconstructed title was issued.

The medium/good. After the reconstructed title the shop owner had the car in his personal fleet that currently includes some p2r and a nice p80 c70 HT. Based on receipts he gave me, in 2016 he did timing belt and water pump, brakes and tires. At the time the car had mid late 160k. After that it looks like it hadn't been driven much and he decided to sell it. Less than 1000 miles driven since June of '17. I got a good feeling about the situation but I know there may be some Gremlins hiding.

I just drove it about 100 miles home on mixed roads. Well behaved. Trans shifts buttery smooth and seemed to have a nice program.

My plan is to drive the car as I think it deserves. I have another car I can use in case I have trouble with it.

I have a local Volvo specialist scheduled to take a look at it on Friday to give me some more guidance. No specific plans other than a "Stage 0."

Looking to get some honest advice and encouragement with this project. I am basically a Volvo novice but am not afraid to tackle a project if I have the right equipment.

Any advice short of "terrible decision" is welcome. Or at least that will motivate me to prove you wrong.

Located near Reading PA (Philly) for any locals.


(Apparently I don't have permissions to attach photos and I don't remember how I did it on my last "meet me")
 
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#3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I remember the seller mentioned it was changed in his possession, I can probably call and check.

With these trans, am I right in inferring that "when in doubt change it out"?

I'll read up this week about the other items.

Thanks again
 
#5 ·
5 speed Auto runs really hot from the factory. It's a very good idea to flush it often and with idamitsu? Fluid it's who Volvo has make their house brand atf. It's special, not generic red stuff.
 
#7 ·
Is the trans cooler kit ipd sells worth doing?

Or still just worry about "stage 0" and work from there?

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Maybe? Cheaper to use the xc90 oil cooler and adapt it to mount.
 
#8 ·
Not sure how many vacuum lines this engine has, but that's another thing I'd say you'll need to change. I just got it done on mine yesterday because none of them had been changed in 20 years and all where cracking/disintegrating.
 
#12 ·
Making a trip to mechanic tomorrow morning to give everything a professional eye and check a few things.

Some little funky things that I'm hoping are tire or suspension related and not awd related.

I aired up all the tires to the Volvo "fuel economy" specs on the fuel door. 36 front, 41 rear.

Later that night I started noticing some weird vibration under 20 mph. Happens under braking and acceleration and I did a quick test with the trans in neutral while coming to a stop.

My brain wants to believe it's not just a coincidence that it happened after I aired tires up. Tires are older than I thought they were and have done more sitting than driving the past few years.

Hoping I didn't buy a time bomb. I'll update tomorrow.

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#13 ·
Making a trip to mechanic tomorrow morning to give everything a professional eye and check a few things.

Some little funky things that I'm hoping are tire or suspension related and not awd related.

I aired up all the tires to the Volvo "fuel economy" specs on the fuel door. 36 front, 41 rear.

Later that night I started noticing some weird vibration under 20 mph. Happens under braking and acceleration and I did a quick test with the trans in neutral while coming to a stop.

My brain wants to believe it's not just a coincidence that it happened after I aired tires up. Tires are older than I thought they were and have done more sitting than driving the past few years.

Hoping I didn't buy a time bomb. I'll update tomorrow.

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Uh, try 36 all around. Vibration under braking/acceleration is probably front suspension related. Check your control arms/ball joints.

As for vR's being a time bomb, its not going to explode but you will most likely spend a good amount of money to refresh many systems/components that are at the end of their life after 20 years. That being said theres no reason not to overhaul it.
 
#14 ·
Scottish,

I'm being dramatic re: time bomb, just getting more educated in what I might be in for. Lots of small ticket refurbish projects or major $$$.

Mechanic found some small suspension things that need some attention as well as small "easy" stuff. Rear brakes soon, all 4 flex brake lines. A few other things I can't remember off hand.

He thinks one of the drive shaft joints is going bad, so nothing "major" but something that needs done soon.

Gonna start pricing things out and make a priority list.

I'll update when I have the report in hand from him

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#15 ·
Here's a copy of my to-do from my new mechanic for my R.

Like I said above I'm going to do my own research, but I'd love advice on any and all of these items.

Re: drive shaft, I've seen people talk about Colorado drive shaft being the best place.

Shifter bulb was already on my list of Todo (as well as new ebrake trim and other misc interior fixing)

Just did main wipers today, need to order headlight wipers.

Any worthwhile upgrades for suspension components that I can do piece by piece?

Mechanic said front brake hoses are easy, but rears are tough. I've only ever done brake lines/ hoses on a non abs and non power brake car. Brake pads I feel like should be no prob at home.

Felt in good hands when an 07 R pulled in behind me. Atacama leather! Original owner, 240k miles! (Blurry photo attached)


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#16 ·
Glad you picked this one up. Will be good to see what you do with it over time. The priority list is a good one to focus on. and then it repeats... :)
 
#17 ·
Your to do list sounds pretty simple.

I would add:

Spark plugs, coolant flush, pcv banjo bolt update, do all the inner/outer tie rods and a delrin subframe mount upgrade at the same time. Rear lines are not too bad if you have flare wrenches and cut the old line off at the fitting and use a socket to take the remains off. And heat.

Rear suspension I wouldnt worry about until a nivomat actually fails, then you can replace both or swap out to conventional springs and shocks.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the reply. Drive shaft got worse this weekend. So I think that is priority 1.

I want the Awd to work properly, so short term I could take the shaft out, but ultimately I want a complete awd system.

I'll put the other stuff on the list. Going on vacation this week, so tackle most after that.

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#19 ·
As you suggested before I'll replace the angle collar too while the shaft is out. Seems like a worthwhile peice of mind investment.

Re ends and sway bar links...I was looking at the myele hd links...are those worthwhile?

And I see IPD had a brake line kit that seems nice, again is it marketing hype or worth it?

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#21 ·
Talked to mechanic again this morning. I'm going on a trip thru the 10th (without the car) and I'm gonna have them take the drive shaft out and figure out whether it needs a full rebuild or just one of the ends...

Colorado drive shaft quoted me 425+100 core. So I at least know what the top end will be as far as parts.

For now that's all I'm going to tackle. Next I would worry about brake lines and rear brakes.

I'm planning on getting snow tires and spare rims, so I'll worry about suspension stuff at that same time. I'm assuming I'm right not to put snows on my original satelite's. Or is any collector value out the window since I'm running an Rebuilt title?

I'll have to do my research on the subframe bushings. I've seen Scottish talk about it enough times on here.

I hope you all don't feel like broken records. I promise I will get to the point where I have knowledge to contribute rather than sucking it all up.

For now, how about the beauty of beading water on a black car...


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#22 ·
Update for everyone. Just got back from vacation and had the driveshaft taken care of!

Mechanic was able to remove and reinstall new driveshaft in 1.25 hours, so it only cost me ~100 bucks to do. Hoping to give it some exercise this weekend. The drive home from the shop felt very good.

Easy and quick service form Colorado driveshaft as well. Glad to have gotten good report from everyone here about them.

Gonna start talking the rest of my to-do list for "stage 0"

On another note, I ended up at a circuit race track on my trip and found a guy running an S60R. Didn't get to talk to him, but fun to see one racing. Looked like he was a driver that used to race 850Rs in the BTCC. Pictured...blue and yellow behind the BMW wagon


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#26 ·
Update for everyone. Just got back from vacation and had the driveshaft taken care of!

On another note, I ended up at a circuit race track on my trip and found a guy running an S60R. Didn't get to talk to him, but fun to see one racing. Looked like he was a driver that used to race 850Rs in the BTCC. Pictured...blue and yellow behind the BMW wagon


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That's Johan and his S60 Challenge race car. Cool!
 
#23 ·
Missed 176k so I finally get to hit my first odo milestone as of tonight.

Wanderwagon is picking up some snow tires for me and helping with some little things with a debut soon.

Once I get tires I'm going to plan on doing my front suspension bits and rear brakes. So I can be prepared for winter.

Part of me wants to get a second set of Satelite's to put my snow on, but I know they were only made one year. My local mechanic has some older rims from an S80 that I could turn into winter if the collective opinion says Satelite's are too "cool" to make a winter wheel.

Opinions welcome.


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#25 ·
the nets were standard in Rs.

open wheel designs are prone to getting snow packed in them. satellites wouldn't be my first choice of winter wheel.
 
#30 ·
My timing could not have been better. Got a set of new General Altimax Arctic facilitated by a fellow member. Went by my local shop yesterday to have them mount them on some older S80 rims they had in storage.

Today what was supposed to be "a little snow and some freezing rain" turned into 4+ inches of hard icy snow with some slush all over the county.

Boy am I impressed. I have never used snow tires before, but the caR felt steady and confident and recovered easily if I lost a little traction. Ended up having to pick up my better half as I hadn't gotten her winter tires setup yet. (Terrible boyfriend)

I ended up getting rims similar to our favorite guru Scottishbrick. I love the retro "tank-y" look.

Good luck out there to fellow Volvo's experiencing a bit of early winter.


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#31 ·
that's a solid setup :thumbup:
 
#33 ·
Talking out loud to see if this makes sense.

When I bought the car the PO told me it needs key cycled on off a few times to start. Sounds like the common failure of the fuel pump check valve I had read about. Mechanic agreed when they checked out the car.

As temperatures here have gotten colder it seems to be taking more "priming" of the fuel pump to start. Sometimes firing and then dying then will start right up. Not hugely scary.

This morning, coldest day this year. ~25 F...did my normal start procedure and it fired but then gave a rough idle, slowly bouncing from 700 to 1200 rpm. This cleared up after a few minutes.

I'm due for plugs and such @180k, so could be a contributing factor.

I've read some others have problems with cold start because of an engine temperature sensor that is/has failed.

Obviously being an armchair mechanic here, but is it reasonable that it is still just fuel/pump related? Or more likely a electrical/engine sensor issue?

Should have pulled out my phone to record it!

'00 V70R "Black Swede Steed" 177k -- stage 0 in progress

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#36 ·
Obviously being an armchair mechanic here, but is it reasonable that it is still just fuel/pump related? Or more likely a electrical/engine sensor issue?
Well, considering the fuel pump is a difficult/expensive fix, and the sensor is a relatively easy/cheap fix, I'd try the sensor first; but someone with more knowledge than me may be able to diagnose things from your description and video.
 
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