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    1. #1
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      Anyone use conventional oil in their xc90s

      When I bought my xc90, it already had 135,000 miles on. Unsure of what oil it used, on my first oil change I used castrol syntec 5w30. All was good until temps dropped and I realized it was way too thin of oil and there was a good amount of chatter from the engine. I downgraded to castrol hi mileage, and have been using it since then. I have put another 120,000 miles on it and its run pretty well on the hi mileage oil. Engine is still quiet and smooth to this date. I do occasionally top up when the oil level is low with conventional oil which hasn't caused any issues.

      I recently found out that castrol gtx is a synthetic blend, which is same as castrol hi mileage. Of course hi mileage stuff has extra additives.

      So, if the oil is changed frequently, is conventional castrol gtx oil ok to use, considering there has been a fair amount of improvement in the formulations of conventional oils these days? I always hear of people putting whatever is cheapest and changing it frequently and their engines last upwards of 350k miles on original engines.
      2004 volvo xc90 2.5t awd

    2. #2
      Junior Member generic_volvo_driver's Avatar
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      An option is to set up sale alerts for Canadian Tire. I get Pennzoil Platinum Ultra for about 30$ /5L. They also have mail in rebates which drop the price another 5$. Pennzoil Platinum meets all the AECA specifications (I've done a lot of research and am very impressed with how it performs in tests). I've switched my fleet to it.
      Me:
      2013 Volvo XC90 AWD Platinum (Caspian Blue Metallic, climate package, walnut inlays + wheel, BLIS, active bi-xenon headlights) 150k km
      2012 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD Platinum (Technology package, climate package) 30k km
      1988 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (2+2, T-top, Aztec Red, collector plates) 80k km
      Family members:
      2015 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD Platinum (Technology package) 96k km

    3. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by generic_volvo_driver View Post
      An option is to set up sale alerts for Canadian Tire. I get Pennzoil Platinum Ultra for about 30$ /5L. They also have mail in rebates which drop the price another 5$. Pennzoil Platinum meets all the AECA specifications (I've done a lot of research and am very impressed with how it performs in tests). I've switched my fleet to it.
      thanks for your reply.
      Not that cost is an issue, but was just curious about how tolerant these engines are with conventional. I know 2 of my close friends bought volvo xc70s with the 2.5t engines, and them previous being from the Honda/Toyota crowd, failed to check the oil in between oil changes. The both didnt realize that turbo engines normally burn oil and both extended the oil change intervals to the point where the oil pressure light came on.We decided to drain the oil and discovered they were running on only 2 litres of oil! One is still on the road today with over 200k miles and the other sold with a perfect powertrain with over 200k miles.

      Its good to know pennzoil is a good oil. I use to use it in my honda days, but now have switched exclusively to castrol.
      2004 volvo xc90 2.5t awd

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    5. #4
      Junior Member Scrapr's Avatar
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      I ran my XC90 on dino oil. Changed at approx 7500 miles. Lot of highway miles on it. I sold it to an employee at >300k miles. I had the 2.5t engine. I sold it because the AWD went out not anything engine related.My employee is still driving it 2 years on.

      I ran my V70 up to almost 300k miles. I needed AWD at that point. The v70 was blowing black soot out the tailpipe and I was afraid that it would notb pass the emissions at tag renewal. . That was when I bought the XC90
      Sold: 98 V70 2.5T 289k Miles
      Sold 05 V70 2.5
      Sold: 05 XC90 2.5T 313986 Miles
      Traded 2017 V60 Platinum Mussel Blue OSD
      2019 XC60 Inscription (almost OSD)

    6. #5
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      I've used dino on my '05 since I bought it (2005), moved to a Castrol synthetic blend high mileage oil since the last 2 changes (I do mine at 4k) since it seemed like a decent idea and the blend in a 5 gallon container was not that much more expensive than straight-up dino. I did a PCV service at 100k, will do another at 200k. I prefer to do these at intervals rather than wait for a clog and failure although I do a check from time to time (have the Volvo +/- .5 Kpa manometer).

      The '08 had synthetic when I bought it at 92k miles, saw no reason to do anything different.
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 199k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 130k

    7. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by ggleavitt View Post
      I've used dino on my '05 since I bought it (2005), moved to a Castrol synthetic blend high mileage oil since the last 2 changes (I do mine at 4k) since it seemed like a decent idea and the blend in a 5 gallon container was not that much more expensive than straight-up dino. I did a PCV service at 100k, will do another at 200k. I prefer to do these at intervals rather than wait for a clog and failure although I do a check from time to time (have the Volvo +/- .5 Kpa manometer).

      The '08 had synthetic when I bought it at 92k miles, saw no reason to do anything different.

      Did you notice any difference switching from dino oil to hi mileage?
      2004 volvo xc90 2.5t awd

    8. #7
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      no difference that I can tell, maybe less seeping around the turbo and a little less lifter chatter on start-up but that's about it so far.
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 199k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 130k

    9. #8
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      It's probably just a coincidence, but, up until about 150,000 miles* I used conventional Castrol oil and never had to add oil between changes. Immediately upon trying the high mileage variant, I got the low oil warning. Now, at 163K miles I'm adding a quart every 1000 - 1500 miles.

      *I acquired the car with 112K miles. I have no idea what was used prior to that time.
      Last edited by John C; 10-31-2018 at 08:10 AM.
      John C
      ---------------------
      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

    10. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      It's probably just a coincidence, but, up until about 150,000 miles* I used conventional Castrol oil and never had to add oil between changes. Immediately upon trying the high mileage variant, I got the low oil warning. Now, at 163K miles I'm adding a quart every 1000 - 1500 miles.

      *I acquired the car with 112K miles. I have no idea what was used prior to that time.
      did you notice any difference by switching to hi mileage? Did you switch back to conventional or are you continuing to use hi mileage?

      I have always had to add oil to mine. probably 1-2 litres between oil changes. Never had an issue with it since all volvos I owned required topping up on the oil at the same rate.
      2004 volvo xc90 2.5t awd

    11. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by huzzsaba View Post
      did you notice any difference by switching to hi mileage? .
      You mean other than the sudden increase in oil consumption? No, not really.

      Now that I think about it, I probably first used the high mileage oil at the 142,500 change. I panicked when the low oil warning came on as it had never happened since I got the car. (A period of 30,000 miles.) Next change I went back to straight Castrol, but no change in consumption. If anything it's been getting worse. I think I added one quart between changes the first time, one or two the next time, and, most recently, a quart every 1000-1500 miles since 157,500.

      I know the 3.2 is known to have oil control issues, but I was surprised by the suddenness with which it came on. I changed the PVC box at 150K, but no change.
      John C
      ---------------------
      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

    12. #11
      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      You mean other than the sudden increase in oil consumption? No, not really.

      Now that I think about it, I probably first used the high mileage oil at the 142,500 change. I panicked when the low oil warning came on as it had never happened since I got the car. (A period of 30,000 miles.) Next change I went back to straight Castrol, but no change in consumption. If anything it's been getting worse. I think I added one quart between changes the first time, one or two the next time, and, most recently, a quart every 1000-1500 miles since 157,500.

      I know the 3.2 is known to have oil control issues, but I was surprised by the suddenness with which it came on. I changed the PVC box at 150K, but no change.
      Have you checked the breather box? It’s an integrated valve cover/ PCV. My 3.2 at 200+ was doing 1qt per oci.

      Edit.. never mind, just reread and saw your last sentence...
      Last edited by Masscomguru; 10-31-2018 at 06:26 PM.
      2010 XC90 V8 - 140k miles
      2012 S60 T5 - traded with 177k. Lost compression on cyl 5.
      2009 C30 - Totaled. It ate a minivan at 35mph.
      2006 S40 - at 217k it was tired and needed too much.
      2008 XC90 3.2 - traded with 220,780 miles

    13. #12
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      My 3.2 was dealer only oil changes until about 55k miles, then switched to Pennzoil 5W-30 Synthetic. Then around 88k miles, I started to use Mobil 1 0W-40. Zero oil consumption and I changed the PCV/cover as a preventative measure around 105k miles.

      My cousin has a 2006 2.5t and we are trying to figure out his consumption, now at 116k miles. Mobil 1 5W-30 was used from around 22k miles to 75k miles, then Royal Purple from 75k miles to 100k miles, about 1-2qts consumed by 3k miles. We believe it is being burnt if driven harder and if using more on-boost acceleration. We used Mobil 1 0W-40 from ~100k to 110k miles with 1-1.5qts for every 3k miles on oil and now the current Castrol Edge Synthetic 5W-40 (black bottle). The Castrol Edge helps with reducing consumption in any driving, but you can feel the thicker oil compared to the Mobil 1 and Royal Purple.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    14. #13
      Junior Member Orange's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      It's probably just a coincidence, but, up until about 150,000 miles* I used conventional Castrol oil and never had to add oil between changes. Immediately upon trying the high mileage variant, I got the low oil warning. Now, at 163K miles I'm adding a quart every 1000 - 1500 miles.

      *I acquired the car with 112K miles. I have no idea what was used prior to that time.

      I describe here my experience switching to synthetic oil https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGU-f1MA-VY

    15. #14
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      I'm doing maybe a quart between changes on my '05, pretty much the same whether with the older dino or the newer high mileage synthetic blend.
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 199k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 130k

    16. #15
      Junior Member need4spd's Avatar
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      our 2005 and 2007 XC90 V8's said to use conventional oil, which we did till we changed over at 15,000 miles to synthetic, 100k on the clock now.

      It was said to run conventional oil in a car designed for conventional for the first 10-15k miles before changing over to allow for everything to seat properly, not sure if true or not, but more than one car engineer told me that if a car started to burn oil, to go back to conventional for the next change and it typically fixed it.

    17. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by huzzsaba View Post
      When I bought my xc90, it already had 135,000 miles on. Unsure of what oil it used, on my first oil change I used castrol syntec 5w30. All was good until temps dropped and I realized it was way too thin of oil and there was a good amount of chatter from the engine.
      I'm confused.
      5w30 is what the manual calls for and is what I have used thus far. Granted, I've only been through a few chilly early spring mornings, summer, and one fall frost thus far. Nothing too cold. But colder temps should actually thicken and make oil less less viscous, not thin it and cause chatter.

      As far as using standard oil, stand/synth blend, or pure synth ... given all the benefits of synthetic (longevity, more consistent viscosity, slower heat breakdown, better contaminant containment, longer intervals between oil changes), I can see no reason to use standard oil.
      Synth blend is simply half as worse as using standard. Again, I don't see the need or purpose outside of saving a few bucks.
      2009 XC90 3.2 AWD l Oyster Grey / Bi-Xenon / Dynaudio / BLIS / VNS / RSE / THULE Aeroblade

    18. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by ShadowDancer View Post
      I'm confused.
      5w30 is what the manual calls for and is what I have used thus far. Granted, I've only been through a few chilly early spring mornings, summer, and one fall frost thus far. Nothing too cold. But colder temps should actually thicken and make oil less less viscous, not thin it and cause chatter.

      As far as using standard oil, stand/synth blend, or pure synth ... given all the benefits of synthetic (longevity, more consistent viscosity, slower heat breakdown, better contaminant containment, longer intervals between oil changes), I can see no reason to use standard oil.
      Synth blend is simply half as worse as using standard. Again, I don't see the need or purpose outside of saving a few bucks.
      I was surprised too at all the chatter from the lifters when using castrol syntec. It was there for a few minutes until the engine warmed up and then it was quiet but too noisy for comfort.

      As soon as I switched to hi mileage, I noticed much less chatter and less prolonged.
      2004 volvo xc90 2.5t awd

    19. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by huzzsaba View Post
      I was surprised too at all the chatter from the lifters when using castrol syntec. It was there for a few minutes until the engine warmed up and then it was quiet but too noisy for comfort.

      As soon as I switched to hi mileage, I noticed much less chatter and less prolonged.
      What about Mobil 1 Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30 as a synthetic? I put together an extensive spreadsheet of oils and their product data and like Mobil 1's synthetic high mileage oils I currently use it in various older vehicles. The viscosity rating for the M1 High Mileage at 40C is 72, versus 62.6 for the Castrol Edge. The pour point is at -36C for the Mobil 1. The extra lower temp viscosity may help with "cushoning" extra play or wear in the valvetrain or piston rings when cold.

      The viscosity at 100C for the M1 5W-30 High Mileage is between M1/Castrol Edge 5W-30 weight and the 0W/5W-40 synthetics (M1, Castrol, Liquimoly, Royal Purple), which could help with normal operating temp stability, blow-by, and other reasons for oil consumption.

      Depending on the additive package for High Mileage, it may help with the build-up of varnish or sludge inside hydraulic lifters, something that may have happened from the previous owner.

      Regardless of "desktop" data, the best way to know is to try in a real-world setting.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    20. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      What about Mobil 1 Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30 as a synthetic? I put together an extensive spreadsheet of oils and their product data and like Mobil 1's synthetic high mileage oils I currently use it in various older vehicles. The viscosity rating for the M1 High Mileage at 40C is 72, versus 62.6 for the Castrol Edge. The pour point is at -36C for the Mobil 1. The extra lower temp viscosity may help with "cushoning" extra play or wear in the valvetrain or piston rings when cold.

      The viscosity at 100C for the M1 5W-30 High Mileage is between M1/Castrol Edge 5W-30 weight and the 0W/5W-40 synthetics (M1, Castrol, Liquimoly, Royal Purple), which could help with normal operating temp stability, blow-by, and other reasons for oil consumption.

      Depending on the additive package for High Mileage, it may help with the build-up of varnish or sludge inside hydraulic lifters, something that may have happened from the previous owner.

      Regardless of "desktop" data, the best way to know is to try in a real-world setting.
      I'm tempted to try mobil1 high mileage because its full synthetic, however, I haven't had any issue with castrol hi mileage and have been using it for the last 7 years. Unless there is a good chance, it will reduce my current oil leak, Id rather not change whats working.
      2004 volvo xc90 2.5t awd

    21. #20
      Quote Originally Posted by huzzsaba View Post
      I'm tempted to try mobil1 high mileage because its full synthetic, however, I haven't had any issue with castrol hi mileage and have been using it for the last 7 years. Unless there is a good chance, it will reduce my current oil leak, Id rather not change whats working.
      I have not had luck with M1 in my Volvos. I tried it in my V8 the last oil change and got a low light at about 6k miles (granted its only a half qt) but I did not have it before. Google it, there is a lot of similar instances. I went back to Castrol on this last oil change and got a Low light at 6800 so there is definitely a difference. I did not get that light in any of the previous 4 changes prior to. I had some oil loss on my 3.2 and I ran M1 all the time on that, I just didn't put 2+2 together. Maybe just coincidence. maybe not.
      2010 XC90 V8 - 140k miles
      2012 S60 T5 - traded with 177k. Lost compression on cyl 5.
      2009 C30 - Totaled. It ate a minivan at 35mph.
      2006 S40 - at 217k it was tired and needed too much.
      2008 XC90 3.2 - traded with 220,780 miles

    22. #21
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      I use M1 at the rated 10W-30 in the 3.2L. Works fine.... I use M1 10W30 in my RWD Volvo's except the turbo, which gets M1 10W-40.

      Synthetic oil really is what belongs in modern engines. I love the low end torque of torque of turbos, but they are kinda like factory-installed oil leaks on some level.

      -Ryan
      Too many cars...
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    23. #22
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      A buddy of mine bought a dump/sand truck from the state at auction a few years ago. I know it isn't a sophisticated or even reliable motor. And it isn't even a Ford product. A rod bent at 333K miles. He is rebuilding the motor He sent me pictures of the cylinders. Regular oil changes with dino. I apologize in advance for going out of bounds by comparing a crude, pathetic Chevy motor to the wonders in our cars. On the other hand, maybe all this oil analysis discussion is nonsense as long as it is changed regularly.
      Sincerely,
      Tom
      08 XC90 V8 - Hers
      07 S80 V8 - Shared

    24. #23
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      Our current Wal*Mart flyer has Castrol Syntech and Syntech HM on sale 5 qt jug for $25.00
      John C
      ---------------------
      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

    25. #24
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      I don't know too much about the history of mine because it had 112K miles when I got it, but I went for about 2 years and never had to add an ounce of oil between changes. The first time I tried Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 (not sure what flavor it was) I got the oil warning light after about 2500 miles. It completely freaked me out as I'd never seen it before. Over the last 25K miles it has worked up to about a quart every 1200 miles. Ive tried several synthetics and semi-synthetics, I think all high mileage and all 5W-30. My last change was to standard Castrol 5W-30 dino oil. Too soon to tell.

      Do I really need the 5W rating? (Probably so since it ticks on cold starts). I'm tempted to try 10W-40 for the summer.
      Last edited by John C; 02-27-2019 at 08:34 PM.
      John C
      ---------------------
      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

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      Quote Originally Posted by Masscomguru View Post
      . Sorry, castrol edge 5w30. FWIW, I had no consumption issues in the 3.2 until around 170k and I used M1 5w30 in that from 60k on.
      The Castrol synthetics typically run a little thicker, or higher viscosity, compared to the Mobil 1 counterparts. So, it would be expected to have less oil consumption due to blow by or burn off. Good switch.

      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      I don't know too much about the history of mine because it had 112K miles when I got it, but I went for about 2 years and never had to add an ounce of oil between changes. The first time I tried Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 (not sure what flavor it was) I got the oil warning light after about 2500 miles. It completely freaked me out as I'd never seen it before. Over the last 25K miles it has worked up to about a quart every 1200 miles. Ive tried several synthetics and semi-synthetics, I think all high mileage and all 5W-30. My last change was to standard Castrol 5W-30 dino oil. Too soon to tell.

      Do I really need the 5W rating? (Probably so since it ticks on cold starts). I'm tempted to try 10W-40 for the summer.
      The high mileage oils, including the Castrol high mileage oils, have a higher amount of detergents which can act like abrasives. If you are going to go thicker, I would at least try some of the 0W-40 oils, either Mobil 1 or Castrol (slightly thicker). They give better wear protection in below freezing temps due to better oil flow, act like a 5W-30 in normal outside and operating temps, and is more consistent (less thinning) when the engine/outside temps get hot. It also has higher metal protecting anti-wear additives compared to the regular Mobil 1 5W-30, Castrol 5W-30, and even both M1 and Castrol 10W-40.

      With either an M1 or Castrol Edge 10W-40, you are entering a much thicker oil category which will be felt in fuel economy and thus you might need to push the engine harder. The Mobil 1 0W-40 shear rating is nearly the same as a Castrol Edge 10W-40, but the M1 0W-40 will help with flow protection in lower temps and with the higher wear additives so hopefully, oil consumption doesn't get worse. I couldn't find the Castrol 0W-40 shear rating.

      The 5W-30 and 10W-40 oils are old viscosity oils. When the needs of newer engines changed the 0W-40 was developed, such as for higher compression, softer metals to save weight, keeping turbo bearings happy in a daily driver, and running hotter operating temps to be more efficient. Not sure why more people are not trying it. I started to phase in other older cars to the 0W-40 oils in which I used 10W-40 M1 HM previously for thousands of miles with great success too.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    27. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post



      The high mileage oils, including the Castrol high mileage oils, have a higher amount of detergents which can act like abrasives.
      Really? It`s not like they put Comet Cleanser in the oil

      Directly from their website: "the advanced additives found in PEAK® 10W-30 High Mileage Motor Oil offer superior benefits, including: ... Enhanced additives that condition and restore seals with the engine to reduce oil leaks. Superior friction and ABRASION reducing formula"
      Last edited by Thommykent; 02-01-2020 at 11:01 PM.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      Really? It`s not like they put Comet Cleanser in the oil

      Directly from their website: "the advanced additives found in PEAK® 10W-30 High Mileage Motor Oil offer superior benefits, including: ... Enhanced additives that condition and restore seals with the engine to reduce oil leaks. Superior friction and ABRASION reducing formula"
      Lol, if the marketing actually stated the data...plus what is their statement comparing to? A no-name conventional?

      Search data on calcium added to the Castrol High Mileage. Calcium IS an abrasive and is used as an oil detergent. Magnesium is also an abrasive used as a dispersant. Do simple calcium and magnesium abrasive in motor oils Google search and you will easily find results. The issue comes with how much of these different additives are being used, the mix or ratio, because more is not necessarily better.

      I sought the actual numbers of calcium in Castrol's High Mileage. I also found that Mobil 1's High Mileage uses less calcium and from experience, have not had the oil burning issue after M1s use for 10s of thousands of miles in different European vehicles (even after trying non-High Mileage later). I even used Mobil 1's High Mileage 5W-30 in my 3.2 for two oil changes before switching to Mobil 1 0W-40...with no oil burning or loss.

      Again, I provided some data for oils to make better choices, not just marketing jargon: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...oooo-confusing My statements on calcium and recommendations of oils are not based on marketing, but data and experience.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    29. #28
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      2005 Volvo XC90 2.5 T 110K, put on maybe 6000 a year.

      Here is a data point.. Put in M1 0W-40 for the first time, 6000 miles ago... the dreaded No Oil Pressure Stop Safely light came on... was swearing thinking that I only had changed the oil seals at 100K.... and it turned out that the oil got so black and dirty, maybe from the cleaning it did, to block the pickup screen.......and get this..... when changing oil, the oil level went WAY down since the last time I checked it a month ago or 500 miles or so. So, I swapped it out in a panic, with 5w-30 castrol gtx high mileage blend, because thats all they had at my walmart, and I'll do a change again early say 4000 miles this time... but I'm surprised that the change interval couldn't go til 7500 per the manual. Granted, I'm doing alot of short trips, and I did notice the mpg go down on few times I'm on highway.

      And aside, the low oil level indicator never went off. Maybe there isn't one on the 2.5T ????? Does anyone know this ???

    30. #29
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      I'm curious; how do you know it blocked the pickup screen, and how did you clean it?

      More common is all the crud blocks the oil filter, but that usually sends it into bypass, allowing the crud into the engine oil passages and causing catastrophic engine failure.
      John C
      ---------------------
      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

    31. #30
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      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      I'm curious; how do you know it blocked the pickup screen, and how did you clean it?

      More common is all the crud blocks the oil filter, but that usually sends it into bypass, allowing the crud into the engine oil passages and causing catastrophic engine failure.
      I don't know, all I know was the oil was jet black... though the filter wasn't bad at all. But new oil and filter and only 6000 miles later, wouldn't generate enough crud to block the filter, but the pickup screen is tiny so I assumed this, and the symptoms suggest it. The symptoms started by the red triangle flickering at idle, and then progressively got worse.. and if shut car off, and say waited an hour, upon startup it'd be fine, until maybe five min later and the red triangle again. But if it bypassed the oil filter, then the pressure wouldn't drop..thus I assumed it was the pickup... Now its fine. And I didn't clean the pickup... just put in new oil and filter.... for 10K miles ago had to replace the seals and did a complete clean of pan, along with a few rapid oil changes at 2500 intervals, until this last one.
      Last edited by diclemeg; 01-31-2020 at 12:15 PM.

    32. #31
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      Quote Originally Posted by diclemeg View Post
      The symptoms started by the red triangle flickering at idle, and then progressively got worse.. and if shut car off, and say waited an hour, upon startup it'd be fine, until maybe five min later and the red triangle again.
      Those symptoms fit an engine that 's worn such that the oil, once it gets hot and thins out, can't make enough pressure. The viscosity modifiers that keep the oil from thinning when heated become less effective as the oil ages. If it repeats again, I'd start looking deeper. Contamination in the oil pressure relief valve can cause the same behavior.
      John C
      ---------------------
      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

    33. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by diclemeg View Post
      I don't know, all I know was the oil was jet black... though the filter wasn't bad at all. But new oil and filter and only 6000 miles later, wouldn't generate enough crud to block the filter, but the pickup screen is tiny so I assumed this, and the symptoms suggest it. The symptoms started by the red triangle flickering at idle, and then progressively got worse.. and if shut car off, and say waited an hour, upon startup it'd be fine, until maybe five min later and the red triangle again. But if it bypassed the oil filter, then the pressure wouldn't drop..thus I assumed it was the pickup... Now its fine. And I didn't clean the pickup... just put in new oil and filter.... for 10K miles ago had to replace the seals and did a complete clean of pan, along with a few rapid oil changes at 2500 intervals, until this last one.
      Just trying to understand. So, you had to get seals changed? What seals? VVT, camshaft, turbo, oil pan gasket?

      You are assuming the pickup screen is clogged? And no other cause, say due to clogged PCV which can cause blown seals in the 2.5t? You never checked the trouble codes to see what it says?

      Why are you trying to go the 7,500 miles when 2.5t is known to burn oil and people go to a shorter interval? You went 6,000 miles with the M1 0W-40 for the first time since removing the oil pan, but you don't know how the engine behaved with oil burning in a complete oil change cycle after the oil pan gasket change? So, you were losing oil before, but only suspected the gasket and not typical 2.5t oil burning too?

      When the oil is low for a 2.5t, the upper part of the engine can starve and can throw a low oil pressure light; it can also make noise due to the low oil. How long have you had this 2.5t because you are not aware if there is an oil level light (which I don't believe there is) because, with a leaking oil pan gasket, you would have gotten this oil pressure light before from low oil? You never mentioned about checking the oil level with the dipstick, just that the light went on. Low oil and typical oil burning in a 2.5t would cause the oil pressure light as well as it going away after the engine has been sitting (oil drops down to raise the fluid level), not necessarily a clogged pick-up screen.

      You say the 0W-40 cleaned the engine so now you are changing away from that oil to a conventional? Wouldn't cleaning be good and at least use it for several changes to get the real effect...so it continues to clean any loose carbon or contamination?

      The 2.5t can do better with a Castrol 0W-40 because it is thicker, thus better suited for the hot turbo and burning oil issue. However, you are reporting conventional is better, but comparing at a shorter mileage?

      0W-40 oils by both Mobil 1 and Castrol start darker and darkness is not the indicator of whether the oil has broken down for these synthetics. You can't compare the color of a 5W-30 conventional to a 0W-40 synthetic, they start off different and the color changes differently. However, you are saying the synthetic cleaned so much that the color was dark, but the oil filter does not indicate the same [deep] cleaning?
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    34. #33
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      Really blocked will throw a low pressure light - running the car with this light on is a death sentence.

      One way to check this screen, is to drain the oil, wait a few hours (better overnight) then use an inspection camera (endoscope) with side mirror (glue the mirror so it doesn't drop inside the engine), pass the camera through the drain hole and check the pickup mesh - may want to look first at pics to locate the mesh. The mesh is close to the bottom so will need to squeeze the camera to pass underneath the mesh. To clear the mesh, may use a carburetor cleaning brush (quality one so it doesn't loose wires) to try to reach and turn it under the mesh. I tested this once, my mesh was clean but I think it's doable for a blocked mesh - at least worth a try https://www.amazon.com/Valchoose-Cle...s%2C181&sr=8-2

    35. #34
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      It`s the chemical reaction that cleans, not abrasion.

      SURFACE PROTECTIVE ADDITIVES
      ENGINE LUBRICANTS

      ADDITIVE TYPE

      PURPOSE

      TYPICAL COMPOUNDS

      FUNCTIONS

      Anti-Wear Agent:

      Reduce friction and wear, and prevent scoring and seizure

      Zinc dithiophosphates, organic phosphates and acid phosphates; organic sulphur and chlorine compounds; sulphurized fats, sulfides and disulfides

      Chemical reaction with the metal surface to form a film with lower shear strength than the metal, thereby preventing metal-to-metal contact

      Corrosion & Rust Inhibitor:

      Prevent corrosion and rusting of metal parts in contact with the lubricant

      Zinc dithiophosphates, metal phenolates, basic metal sulfonates, fatty acids and amines

      Preferential adsorption of polar constituent on metal surface to provide a protective film and/or neutralization of corrosive acids

      DETERGENT:

      Keep surfaces free of deposits and neutralize corrosive acids

      Metallo-organic compounds of barium, calcium and magnesium phenolates, phosphates and sulfonates

      CHEMICAL REACTION WITH SLUDGE AND VARNISH PRECURSORS TO NEUTRALIZE THEM AND KEEP THEM SOLUBLE

      Dispersant:

      Keep insoluble soot dispersed in the lubricant

      Polymeric alkylthiophosphonates and alkylsuccinimides, organic complexes containing nitrogen compounds

      Contaminants are bonded by polar attraction to dispersant molecules, prevented from agglomerating and kept in suspension due to solubility of dispersant

      Friction Modifier:

      Alter coefficient of friction

      Organic fatty acids and amines, lard oil, high molecular weight organic phosphorus and phosphoric acid esters

      Preferential adsorption of surface-active material

    36. #35
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      I didn't say anything about how calcium cleans, whether it is chemical or physical. Salt can cause chemical reactions (i.e. rust/oxidation), but when mixed in water is abrasive.

      So you are saying calcium is not abrasive, regardless if it causes a chemical reaction? You are trying to defend this why? It can be abrasive, that is a fact that everyone can Google. It might be less abrasive, than say Magnesium, but the higher amounts is what to be aware of.

      I was trying to help with information on specific oils and perhaps help people if they are going to use high mileage oils. However, you brought a good point in your list because I mention the amount of Zinc used in Mobil 1 0W-40 which is an anti-wear agent and why I recommend that oil to 3.2 owners.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

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