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    1. #36
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      Quote Originally Posted by Masscomguru View Post
      . Sorry, castrol edge 5w30. FWIW, I had no consumption issues in the 3.2 until around 170k and I used M1 5w30 in that from 60k on.
      The Castrol synthetics typically run a little thicker, or higher viscosity, compared to the Mobil 1 counterparts. So, it would be expected to have less oil consumption due to blow by or burn off. Good switch.

      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      I don't know too much about the history of mine because it had 112K miles when I got it, but I went for about 2 years and never had to add an ounce of oil between changes. The first time I tried Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 (not sure what flavor it was) I got the oil warning light after about 2500 miles. It completely freaked me out as I'd never seen it before. Over the last 25K miles it has worked up to about a quart every 1200 miles. Ive tried several synthetics and semi-synthetics, I think all high mileage and all 5W-30. My last change was to standard Castrol 5W-30 dino oil. Too soon to tell.

      Do I really need the 5W rating? (Probably so since it ticks on cold starts). I'm tempted to try 10W-40 for the summer.
      The high mileage oils, including the Castrol high mileage oils, have a higher amount of detergents which can act like abrasives. If you are going to go thicker, I would at least try some of the 0W-40 oils, either Mobil 1 or Castrol (slightly thicker). They give better wear protection in below freezing temps due to better oil flow, act like a 5W-30 in normal outside and operating temps, and is more consistent (less thinning) when the engine/outside temps get hot. It also has higher metal protecting anti-wear additives compared to the regular Mobil 1 5W-30, Castrol 5W-30, and even both M1 and Castrol 10W-40.

      With either an M1 or Castrol Edge 10W-40, you are entering a much thicker oil category which will be felt in fuel economy and thus you might need to push the engine harder. The Mobil 1 0W-40 shear rating is nearly the same as a Castrol Edge 10W-40, but the M1 0W-40 will help with flow protection in lower temps and with the higher wear additives so hopefully, oil consumption doesn't get worse. I couldn't find the Castrol 0W-40 shear rating.

      The 5W-30 and 10W-40 oils are old viscosity oils. When the needs of newer engines changed the 0W-40 was developed, such as for higher compression, softer metals to save weight, keeping turbo bearings happy in a daily driver, and running hotter operating temps to be more efficient. Not sure why more people are not trying it. I started to phase in other older cars to the 0W-40 oils in which I used 10W-40 M1 HM previously for thousands of miles with great success too.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

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    3. #37
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      2005 Volvo XC90 2.5 T 110K, put on maybe 6000 a year.

      Here is a data point.. Put in M1 0W-40 for the first time, 6000 miles ago... the dreaded No Oil Pressure Stop Safely light came on... was swearing thinking that I only had changed the oil seals at 100K.... and it turned out that the oil got so black and dirty, maybe from the cleaning it did, to block the pickup screen.......and get this..... when changing oil, the oil level went WAY down since the last time I checked it a month ago or 500 miles or so. So, I swapped it out in a panic, with 5w-30 castrol gtx high mileage blend, because thats all they had at my walmart, and I'll do a change again early say 4000 miles this time... but I'm surprised that the change interval couldn't go til 7500 per the manual. Granted, I'm doing alot of short trips, and I did notice the mpg go down on few times I'm on highway.

      And aside, the low oil level indicator never went off. Maybe there isn't one on the 2.5T ????? Does anyone know this ???

    4. #38
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      I'm curious; how do you know it blocked the pickup screen, and how did you clean it?

      More common is all the crud blocks the oil filter, but that usually sends it into bypass, allowing the crud into the engine oil passages and causing catastrophic engine failure.
      John C
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      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

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    6. #39
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      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      I'm curious; how do you know it blocked the pickup screen, and how did you clean it?

      More common is all the crud blocks the oil filter, but that usually sends it into bypass, allowing the crud into the engine oil passages and causing catastrophic engine failure.
      I don't know, all I know was the oil was jet black... though the filter wasn't bad at all. But new oil and filter and only 6000 miles later, wouldn't generate enough crud to block the filter, but the pickup screen is tiny so I assumed this, and the symptoms suggest it. The symptoms started by the red triangle flickering at idle, and then progressively got worse.. and if shut car off, and say waited an hour, upon startup it'd be fine, until maybe five min later and the red triangle again. But if it bypassed the oil filter, then the pressure wouldn't drop..thus I assumed it was the pickup... Now its fine. And I didn't clean the pickup... just put in new oil and filter.... for 10K miles ago had to replace the seals and did a complete clean of pan, along with a few rapid oil changes at 2500 intervals, until this last one.
      Last edited by diclemeg; 01-31-2020 at 12:15 PM.

    7. #40
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      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      It's probably just a coincidence, but, up until about 150,000 miles* I used conventional Castrol oil and never had to add oil between changes. Immediately upon trying the high mileage variant, I got the low oil warning. Now, at 163K miles I'm adding a quart every 1000 - 1500 miles.

      *I acquired the car with 112K miles. I have no idea what was used prior to that time.

      I describe here my experience switching to synthetic oil https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGU-f1MA-VY

    8. #41
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      Really blocked will throw a low pressure light - running the car with this light on is a death sentence.

      One way to check this screen, is to drain the oil, wait a few hours (better overnight) then use an inspection camera (endoscope) with side mirror (glue the mirror so it doesn't drop inside the engine), pass the camera through the drain hole and check the pickup mesh - may want to look first at pics to locate the mesh. The mesh is close to the bottom so will need to squeeze the camera to pass underneath the mesh. To clear the mesh, may use a carburetor cleaning brush (quality one so it doesn't loose wires) to try to reach and turn it under the mesh. I tested this once, my mesh was clean but I think it's doable for a blocked mesh - at least worth a try https://www.amazon.com/Valchoose-Cle...s%2C181&sr=8-2

    9. #42
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      Quote Originally Posted by diclemeg View Post
      The symptoms started by the red triangle flickering at idle, and then progressively got worse.. and if shut car off, and say waited an hour, upon startup it'd be fine, until maybe five min later and the red triangle again.
      Those symptoms fit an engine that 's worn such that the oil, once it gets hot and thins out, can't make enough pressure. The viscosity modifiers that keep the oil from thinning when heated become less effective as the oil ages. If it repeats again, I'd start looking deeper. Contamination in the oil pressure relief valve can cause the same behavior.
      John C
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      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

    10. #43
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      Quote Originally Posted by diclemeg View Post
      I don't know, all I know was the oil was jet black... though the filter wasn't bad at all. But new oil and filter and only 6000 miles later, wouldn't generate enough crud to block the filter, but the pickup screen is tiny so I assumed this, and the symptoms suggest it. The symptoms started by the red triangle flickering at idle, and then progressively got worse.. and if shut car off, and say waited an hour, upon startup it'd be fine, until maybe five min later and the red triangle again. But if it bypassed the oil filter, then the pressure wouldn't drop..thus I assumed it was the pickup... Now its fine. And I didn't clean the pickup... just put in new oil and filter.... for 10K miles ago had to replace the seals and did a complete clean of pan, along with a few rapid oil changes at 2500 intervals, until this last one.
      Just trying to understand. So, you had to get seals changed? What seals? VVT, camshaft, turbo, oil pan gasket?

      You are assuming the pickup screen is clogged? And no other cause, say due to clogged PCV which can cause blown seals in the 2.5t? You never checked the trouble codes to see what it says?

      Why are you trying to go the 7,500 miles when 2.5t is known to burn oil and people go to a shorter interval? You went 6,000 miles with the M1 0W-40 for the first time since removing the oil pan, but you don't know how the engine behaved with oil burning in a complete oil change cycle after the oil pan gasket change? So, you were losing oil before, but only suspected the gasket and not typical 2.5t oil burning too?

      When the oil is low for a 2.5t, the upper part of the engine can starve and can throw a low oil pressure light; it can also make noise due to the low oil. How long have you had this 2.5t because you are not aware if there is an oil level light (which I don't believe there is) because, with a leaking oil pan gasket, you would have gotten this oil pressure light before from low oil? You never mentioned about checking the oil level with the dipstick, just that the light went on. Low oil and typical oil burning in a 2.5t would cause the oil pressure light as well as it going away after the engine has been sitting (oil drops down to raise the fluid level), not necessarily a clogged pick-up screen.

      You say the 0W-40 cleaned the engine so now you are changing away from that oil to a conventional? Wouldn't cleaning be good and at least use it for several changes to get the real effect...so it continues to clean any loose carbon or contamination?

      The 2.5t can do better with a Castrol 0W-40 because it is thicker, thus better suited for the hot turbo and burning oil issue. However, you are reporting conventional is better, but comparing at a shorter mileage?

      0W-40 oils by both Mobil 1 and Castrol start darker and darkness is not the indicator of whether the oil has broken down for these synthetics. You can't compare the color of a 5W-30 conventional to a 0W-40 synthetic, they start off different and the color changes differently. However, you are saying the synthetic cleaned so much that the color was dark, but the oil filter does not indicate the same [deep] cleaning?
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    11. #44
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post



      The high mileage oils, including the Castrol high mileage oils, have a higher amount of detergents which can act like abrasives.
      Really? It`s not like they put Comet Cleanser in the oil

      Directly from their website: "the advanced additives found in PEAK® 10W-30 High Mileage Motor Oil offer superior benefits, including: ... Enhanced additives that condition and restore seals with the engine to reduce oil leaks. Superior friction and ABRASION reducing formula"
      Last edited by Thommykent; 02-01-2020 at 11:01 PM.

    12. #45
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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      Really? It`s not like they put Comet Cleanser in the oil

      Directly from their website: "the advanced additives found in PEAK® 10W-30 High Mileage Motor Oil offer superior benefits, including: ... Enhanced additives that condition and restore seals with the engine to reduce oil leaks. Superior friction and ABRASION reducing formula"
      Lol, if the marketing actually stated the data...plus what is their statement comparing to? A no-name conventional?

      Search data on calcium added to the Castrol High Mileage. Calcium IS an abrasive and is used as an oil detergent. Magnesium is also an abrasive used as a dispersant. Do simple calcium and magnesium abrasive in motor oils Google search and you will easily find results. The issue comes with how much of these different additives are being used, the mix or ratio, because more is not necessarily better.

      I sought the actual numbers of calcium in Castrol's High Mileage. I also found that Mobil 1's High Mileage uses less calcium and from experience, have not had the oil burning issue after M1s use for 10s of thousands of miles in different European vehicles (even after trying non-High Mileage later). I even used Mobil 1's High Mileage 5W-30 in my 3.2 for two oil changes before switching to Mobil 1 0W-40...with no oil burning or loss.

      Again, I provided some data for oils to make better choices, not just marketing jargon: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...oooo-confusing My statements on calcium and recommendations of oils are not based on marketing, but data and experience.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    13. #46
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      It`s the chemical reaction that cleans, not abrasion.

      SURFACE PROTECTIVE ADDITIVES
      ENGINE LUBRICANTS

      ADDITIVE TYPE

      PURPOSE

      TYPICAL COMPOUNDS

      FUNCTIONS

      Anti-Wear Agent:

      Reduce friction and wear, and prevent scoring and seizure

      Zinc dithiophosphates, organic phosphates and acid phosphates; organic sulphur and chlorine compounds; sulphurized fats, sulfides and disulfides

      Chemical reaction with the metal surface to form a film with lower shear strength than the metal, thereby preventing metal-to-metal contact

      Corrosion & Rust Inhibitor:

      Prevent corrosion and rusting of metal parts in contact with the lubricant

      Zinc dithiophosphates, metal phenolates, basic metal sulfonates, fatty acids and amines

      Preferential adsorption of polar constituent on metal surface to provide a protective film and/or neutralization of corrosive acids

      DETERGENT:

      Keep surfaces free of deposits and neutralize corrosive acids

      Metallo-organic compounds of barium, calcium and magnesium phenolates, phosphates and sulfonates

      CHEMICAL REACTION WITH SLUDGE AND VARNISH PRECURSORS TO NEUTRALIZE THEM AND KEEP THEM SOLUBLE

      Dispersant:

      Keep insoluble soot dispersed in the lubricant

      Polymeric alkylthiophosphonates and alkylsuccinimides, organic complexes containing nitrogen compounds

      Contaminants are bonded by polar attraction to dispersant molecules, prevented from agglomerating and kept in suspension due to solubility of dispersant

      Friction Modifier:

      Alter coefficient of friction

      Organic fatty acids and amines, lard oil, high molecular weight organic phosphorus and phosphoric acid esters

      Preferential adsorption of surface-active material

    14. #47
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      I didn't say anything about how calcium cleans, whether it is chemical or physical. Salt can cause chemical reactions (i.e. rust/oxidation), but when mixed in water is abrasive.

      So you are saying calcium is not abrasive, regardless if it causes a chemical reaction? You are trying to defend this why? It can be abrasive, that is a fact that everyone can Google. It might be less abrasive, than say Magnesium, but the higher amounts is what to be aware of.

      I was trying to help with information on specific oils and perhaps help people if they are going to use high mileage oils. However, you brought a good point in your list because I mention the amount of Zinc used in Mobil 1 0W-40 which is an anti-wear agent and why I recommend that oil to 3.2 owners.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    15. #48
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      For anyone who wants to do their own research. I am only a baseline of information and always encourage others to do their own research so as not to make assumptions or trust only one source.

      Here are a few links for you to understand calcium:
      https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saska...tudy-1.5143127
      https://www.machinerylubrication.com...l-contaminants Look under Glycol
      http://www.pqiamerica.com/calcium.htm Calcium is both chemical and physical in its properties
      https://www.sae.org/publications/tec.../2014-32-0092/ It can cause ignition/combustion issues if too high concentration []
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    16. #49
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      I didn't say anything about how calcium cleans, whether it is chemical or physical. Salt can cause chemical reactions (i.e. rust/oxidation), but when mixed in water is abrasive.

      So you are saying calcium is not abrasive, regardless if it causes a chemical reaction? You are trying to defend this why? It can be abrasive, that is a fact that everyone can Google. It might be less abrasive, than say Magnesium, f
      Think about it, why would a physical abrasive be added to oil? Calcium Sulphonate as used in motor oil forms a chemical action not physical abrasion to clean. The only problem with too much Calcium is low speed pre-ignition in turbocharged engines

    17. #50
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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      Think about it, why would a physical abrasive be added to oil? Calcium Sulphonate as used in motor oil forms a chemical action not physical abrasion to clean. The only problem with too much Calcium is low speed pre-ignition in turbocharged engines
      So you are saying that if you increase the concentration of salt to water in doesn't have the potential to become more abrasive? It is the same scientific properties whereas salt can cause chemical reactions, hold certain compounds/chemicals, and the more of it equals more abrasive. Calcium also can cause chemical reactions, hold compounds/chemicals, and when combined with the compounds (say carbon), becomes abrasive.

      The issue isn't just turbo engines and pre-ignition. There is a balance to the mixture. If you are trying to go 7,500 miles in a Castrol High Mileage oil that has higher calcium than its counterpart Mobil 1 High Mileage, yes, there is greater risk for the Castrol to be more abrasive. 7,500 allows more time for calcium to hold more carbon/contaminates (abrasive combo) and high calcium levels allows more concentration of the abrasive combo. It's basic.

      And to answer your question why calcium is added instead of a better alternative by companies....because it is cheap (not my words, check the first article I linked). Price point is one of the main key factors for selling motor oil on the market.
      Last edited by ChitownV; 02-02-2020 at 01:44 PM. Reason: spelling correct
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    18. #51
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      I didn`t ask why calcium is added to oil instead of something else. More calcium would actually be able to suspend more particles in a higher ratio than less calcium, thus providing more protection from carbon contaminates. It`s basic chemistry

    19. #52
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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      I didn`t ask why calcium is added to oil instead of something else. More calcium would actually be able to suspend more particles in a higher ratio than less calcium, thus providing more protection from carbon contaminates. It`s basic chemistry
      You are wrong in that sense. As the combination of carbon and calcium become abrasive. More is not necessarily better because then you will have a higher concentration of the abrasives floating in the oil. I think I am repeating myself again.

      The goal is to obtain the carbon, hold the carbon, and keep it suspended so it can be drained out along with the oil. Some calcium is good to hold the carbon for cleaning, but higher levels increase the risk of abrasion. Carbon sludge, sometimes called soot, isn't necessarily abrasive, but combined with calcium it is. That is why (the pattern based on the actual figures of different oils) of regular non-High Mileage oils doesn't have as high calcium levels.

      Who knows the 2 bucket method of cleaning the car? This is used to prevent the dirt that is collected to be re-introduced in the clean/soapy water so the dirt doesn't scratch the paint. However, even though there is an oil filter, we know not all dirt can be filtered out. Thus in motor oil, the carbon/calcium abrasive combo is floating around all bearings, piston rings, camshaft surfaces, etc.

      What are you not getting here? or are you just trying to argue and give factually incorrect information to people? Data, articles, research, has been gone through with this.

      What oils did you get the calcium levels to establish the pattern? What is your final consensus or recommendation of using which oils?
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    20. #53
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      You are wrong in that sense. As the combination of carbon and calcium become abrasive. More is not necessarily better because then you will have a higher concentration of the abrasives floating in the oil. I think I am repeating myself again.

      The goal is to obtain the carbon, hold the carbon, and keep it suspended so it can be drained out along with the oil. Some calcium is good to hold the carbon for cleaning, but higher levels increase the risk of abrasion.
      You don`t understand a basic principle called dilution, more calcium which can hold more carbon would make the abrasion risk less.

    21. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      You don`t understand a basic principle called dilution, more calcium which can hold more carbon would make the abrasion risk less.
      For the sake of the forum, we can agree to disagree here. I presented data, articles, articles with research, etc. At the very least others have heard different sides.

      I'll ask again since you removed it from quoting my post. What oil would you recommend and why?
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    22. #55
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      Walmart Super Tech, Amazon Basics, high ratings at ⅔'s the price or any synthetic meeting LSAC GF-4 API SL / ACEA A1/B1 or Euro Spec ACEA A5/B5 and higher

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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      Walmart Super Tech, Amazon Basics, high ratings at ⅔'s the price or any synthetic meeting LSAC GF-4 API SL / ACEA A1/B1 or Euro Spec ACEA A5/B5 and higher
      I just checked, Amazon Basics oil in 5 quarts is over 90% the cost of Castrol or Mobil 1.

      Why not oils meeting A3B3? Which weights would your recommend? Which version of Walmart Super Tech or Amazon Basics and why? What ratings are you referring to...just youtube reviews, cold specs, HTHS, etc? Since we were talking about the additives, what about the additives in these oils?

      And which ones for which engine and why?
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
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    24. #57
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      The bogus claim on Calcium abrasion was my only reason to be in this thread. Now it`s known anything you present on oil is suspect.

    25. #58
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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      The bogus claim on Calcium abrasion was my only reason to be in this thread. Now it`s known anything you present on oil is suspect.
      So, when it comes to recommending specific oils and the reasoning behind it you won't do it?

      Well, people can do simple Google searches themselves and don't have to listen to me. I encourage people to do their own research and not listen to one source. Always have, that's why I provided some here.

      Personally, I would rather have a smaller amount of calcium detergent in my oil so there is less carbon/calcium abrasive floating through my engine, bearings, piston rings/cylinder walls, camshafts, tappets, etc. Like transmission fluid and doing the multiple drain/fill or keeping up with the fluid change (could be cooler method), I would rather tackle carbon cleaning over continuous oil changes with less concentration of abrasive media floating in the oil. If more is better, then more oil changes (shorter change interval) would fit that bill.

      Ironically, you have not said you use a High Mileage oil which tends to have higher calcium levels.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
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    26. #59
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      I used High Mileage oils when they were still non-energy conserving and had the higher levels of ZDDP which I wanted, the energy conserving oils had very little. I still can`t fathom how you don`t understand if there is more calcium the the carbon abrasives would be diluted and you would have a less abrasive lubricant. If the oil meets specifications of what the manufacturer requires and is a synthetic ,that`s what I would recommend, no more no less.

    27. #60
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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      I used High Mileage oils when they were still non-energy conserving and had the higher levels of ZDDP which I wanted, the energy conserving oils had very little. I still can`t fathom how you don`t understand if there is more calcium the the carbon abrasives would be diluted and you would have a less abrasive lubricant. If the oil meets specifications of what the manufacturer requires and is a synthetic ,that`s what I would recommend, no more no less.
      I can't understand that you think this carbon floating in oil does not do damage. Carbon can stick to surfaces, block oil flow, and prevent oil from lubricating surfaces. So as you remove the carbon, it has to go somewhere. That somewhere is floating in the oil and is floating for thousands of miles of use through the engine. Calcium does not provide lubricity to carbon as it holds it.

      Diluting carbon with high calcium from the engine is like washing a car covered in heavy dirt in one step, it is not good on the surface, but as you loosen it up while washing, it can scratch the surface. That is why in cleaning cars we don't tackle it all at once, we might rinse, use a foam cannon, then wash (2 bucket method), etc. Again, doing more at once is not necessarily better here. Using smaller amounts of calcium over different oil changes will be less abrasive than having a high calcium level.

      I've given the washing car analogy, the transmission fluid analogy, so it's difficult to comprehend why you don't understand your theory is not what happens in reality.


      If you don't like my words about why we don't want a high calcium level, then how about the Petroleum Quality Institute of America's:
      "It is also important to consider that whereas a high level of calcium may be desirable due to the lubricant's detergency, too much detergent can result in an oil with a high ash content. And when it does, in addition to acting as a detergent, the detergent itself can also contribute to lubricant contamination."
      http://www.pqiamerica.com/calcium.htm
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    28. #61
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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      I used High Mileage oils when they were still non-energy conserving and had the higher levels of ZDDP which I wanted, the energy conserving oils had very little. I still can`t fathom how you don`t understand if there is more calcium the the carbon abrasives would be diluted and you would have a less abrasive lubricant. If the oil meets specifications of what the manufacturer requires and is a synthetic ,that`s what I would recommend, no more no less.
      Separately, about your oil recommendation and use. So you decided to use High Mileage before and looking for Zinc, but then you recommend anything synthetic that meets the manufacturer requirements?

      That is conflicting because you are saying specifically you use an oil type (again, no brand mentioned) beyond basic requirements, or perhaps different from manufacturer requirements, but recommend to others to use "no more no less" what an auto manufacturer states (even if it's outdated from 10+ yrs ago)?

      I guess 'do as I say not as I do' fits here.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
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    29. #62
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      I think it is time to end this again for the sake of the forum. Clearly people can do their own research and can make up their own minds.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    30. #63
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      Good idea, before you stroke out on Calcium worries.

    31. #64
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      Unless you drive a Diesel (or work on them) you really don't have any idea what carbon suspended in the oil is all about.

      OTOH, if you don't suspend it and drain it out with the old oil, where do you think it's going to end up?
      John C
      ---------------------
      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

    32. #65
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      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      Unless you drive a Diesel (or work on them) you really don't have any idea what carbon suspended in the oil is all about.

      OTOH, if you don't suspend it and drain it out with the old oil, where do you think it's going to end up?
      So true. And if you have not had to change 12 quarts of oil from a diesel work truck, you're not living, lol.

      Since this thread started about conventional oil, this is what's nice about synthetics in general. Synthetics are more resistant when it comes to leaving carbon compared to conventional oil (call it thermal breakdown, evaporation, oxidation, or whatever). So, as the detergents clean with each oil interval, there is also less of a chance for carbon from synthetic oil being deposited back. I have opened up at least a dozen engines who have used synthetics for most, if not all their lives, and they all were very clean. You could see some carbon deposits in corners where the flow of oil is low, but otherwise, varnish and carbon was almost nonexistent. The existing levels of detergent in regular synthetics (non-high mileage) do a very good job of cleaning with regular use over time.

      If switching to synthetic from conventional, or using synthetic in an engine with unknown oil history, it might be better to use regular synthetic, but at a shorter change interval for a few oil changes. Like you are saying, suspend and drain. I believe Orange was touching on that subject in this thread.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    33. #66
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      I've come to the realization that 110K is not high mileage on a 2.5T as these engines are we built and last over 300K. Plus the path for the lifters is very small and a thicker oil may not effectively he through... and I will follow the mfr recommendations of a 30 weight oil and not, say 0W-40 because some here claim the thicker oil helps the older engines.
      Maybe so but that will be for engines much older than mine.
      And to chitownv, yes I've owned the car from the start and hadn't realized there is no low oil indicator....never was an issue because never had used an oil like the M1 that'd be consumed so fast.
      Last edited by diclemeg; 02-03-2020 at 10:30 PM.
      2005 XC90 T5 2.5T AWD 110K

    34. #67
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      Quote Originally Posted by diclemeg View Post
      I've come to the realization that 110K is not high mileage on a 2.5T as these engines are we built and last over 300K. Plus the path for the lifters is very small and a thicker oil may not effectively he through... and I will follow the mfr recommendations of a 30 weight oil and not, say 0W-40 because some here claim the thicker oil helps the older engines.
      Maybe so but that will be for engines much older than mine.
      And to chitownv, yes I've owned the car from the start and hadn't realized there is no low oil indicator....never was an issue because never had used an oil like the M1 that'd be consumed so fast.
      Sounds good. Whatever works as the maintenance history and wear is different for each. Just FYI, I recommended the Castrol not Mobil 1 for the 2.5t, but you know your engine better than anyone else on the internet.

      Just a question again, what oil seals were replaced that you mentioned? It sounded like you had an oil loss issue prior because you mentioned cleaning the oil pan.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
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    35. #68
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      Quote Originally Posted by diclemeg View Post
      2005 Volvo XC90 2.5 T 110K, put on maybe 6000 a year.

      Here is a data point.. Put in M1 0W-40 for the first time, 6000 miles ago... the dreaded No Oil Pressure Stop Safely light came on... was swearing thinking that I only had changed the oil seals at 100K.... and it turned out that the oil got so black and dirty, maybe from the cleaning it did, to block the pickup screen.......and get this..... when changing oil, the oil level went WAY down since the last time I checked it a month ago or 500 miles or so. So, I swapped it out in a panic, with 5w-30 castrol gtx high mileage blend, because thats all they had at my walmart, and I'll do a change again early say 4000 miles this time... but I'm surprised that the change interval couldn't go til 7500 per the manual. Granted, I'm doing alot of short trips, and I did notice the mpg go down on few times I'm on highway.

      And aside, the low oil level indicator never went off. Maybe there isn't one on the 2.5T ????? Does anyone know this ???
      Quote Originally Posted by diclemeg View Post
      I don't know, all I know was the oil was jet black... though the filter wasn't bad at all. But new oil and filter and only 6000 miles later, wouldn't generate enough crud to block the filter, but the pickup screen is tiny so I assumed this, and the symptoms suggest it. The symptoms started by the red triangle flickering at idle, and then progressively got worse.. and if shut car off, and say waited an hour, upon startup it'd be fine, until maybe five min later and the red triangle again. But if it bypassed the oil filter, then the pressure wouldn't drop..thus I assumed it was the pickup... Now its fine. And I didn't clean the pickup... just put in new oil and filter.... for 10K miles ago had to replace the seals and did a complete clean of pan, along with a few rapid oil changes at 2500 intervals, until this last one.
      Quote Originally Posted by diclemeg View Post
      I've come to the realization that 110K is not high mileage on a 2.5T as these engines are we built and last over 300K. Plus the path for the lifters is very small and a thicker oil may not effectively he through... and I will follow the mfr recommendations of a 30 weight oil and not, say 0W-40 because some here claim the thicker oil helps the older engines.
      Maybe so but that will be for engines much older than mine.
      And to chitownv, yes I've owned the car from the start and hadn't realized there is no low oil indicator....never was an issue because never had used an oil like the M1 that'd be consumed so fast.
      I wasn't going to say anything again, but you called me out specifically.

      We are here to try to help one another. Yes, people can make assumptions or worry about things, but a collective forum of experience and information can do wonders. It is also known as crowdsourcing for good answers.

      First, you should be proud of your engine. Many many 2.5t owners, whether they are XC90 or S60 owners, would desire their engine to be able to run 6,000 miles before the oil pressure light came on due to low oil. Many will have that light come on as early as 3,000 miles regardless of engine oil weight or type. No commonality in the type of oil used, maintenance, or other factors....just that they all have the 2.5t. Many decide to shorten their oil change interval from the 7,500 stated in the manual regardless of engine type.

      Second, your story was somewhat confusing so yes, we ask questions to help clarify. Since we don't know your XC90 or its history, sometimes questions are asked. Trying to understand you, I will try to put your posts in order. Please correct and make edits so it is easier for us to understand your story.
      • 1. You had some kind of oil leak issue so you changed oil seals (did not mention which one). The assumption is it was the oil pan gasket because you mentioned cleaning the inside of the oil pan and not the pick-up screen.
      • 2. Following the oil seal change, you did two 2,500 oil changes. Quick oil change intervals are not usually needed after doing oil seals, so naturally a question on this. Also, the oil type/brand/weight was not mentioned.
      • 3. On the third oil change, using Mobil 1 0W-40, you noticed the oil pressure light at 6,000 miles. The oil was low (but mainly dropped in the last 500 miles), black, but the oil filter seemed normal. Along with the oil pressure light going out after the engine sat for a little while, the assumption was made the oil pick-up screen was clogged. No scope was used and the assumption that the Synthetic Mobil 1 0W-40 was to blame.
      • 4. After you changed the oil to non-M1 0W-40 (but did mention Castrol GTX High Mileage blend 5W-30 because that's what Walmart had) and it is at the correct oil level, the oil pressure light does not show. Unknown mileage on this oil, but you said you will change it now at the 4,000-mile mark. Natural question here if you think your 2.5t burns oil because now you want to use a shorter oil change interval.
      • 5. You are surprised Mobil 1 could not make it to 7,500 miles without topping it off, but also mentioned you do a lot of short trips.


      I hope I got it right. Truly trying to summarize correctly.

      Third, when I mainly give the Mobil 1 0W-40 oil recommendation, historically it was more focused on the 3.2 engine. The manual does state (depending on year because of when 0W-40 came out) that the 3.2 can use a 0W-40 oil. I tried to help those with the 2.5t and oil burning issue looking for options to try a Mobil 1 0W-40 and if the oil burning does continue, to try Castrol's 0W-40 since the viscosity is a little thicker, but many have already been using 5W-30 weight oils...plus each owner can make their own decision on oil and what is comfortable for them. I provided non-biased data with viscosity specs, HTHS, etc. in a spreadsheet for people here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...oooo-confusing Again, trying to provide information collected directly from the oil manufacturers so people can make their own informed decision. The poster Orange also gave his experience with how his oil burning stopped after a few oil changes when switching to synthetic oil from conventional in this thread; he even provided a video link.

      So, are you looking for help or just wanted to share your story and experience?
      Last edited by ChitownV; 02-04-2020 at 01:28 AM.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    36. #69
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      The existing levels of detergent in regular synthetics (non-high mileage) do a very good job of cleaning with regular use over time.
      Reminds me of a story...

      Back in the '70s a guy brought me an Mercedes 250 he had owned for about 50,000 miles. He wanted an oil change. I drained the oil, installed a new filter, and filled it with 10w-30 (IIRC) Castrol. About 3000 miles later he called me and told me the car quit on him on the highway. When I got it back the engine was seized. The oil filter was full of black chunks of carbon and had gone into bypass, allowing all that crud into the oil galleries. After a few questions I discovered that in his 50,000 miles of ownership this had been his first oil change... (Guess I should have used non-detergent oil!)
      John C
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      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

    37. #70
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      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      Reminds me of a story...

      After a few questions I discovered that in his 50,000 miles of ownership this had been his first oil change... (Guess I should have used non-detergent oil!)
      Some people do not deserve to be vehicle owners.

      Salute to Mercedes who designed an engine that could endure 40,000 miles of extreme abuse.
      2009 XC90 3.2 AWD l Oyster Grey / Bi-Xenon / Dynaudio / BLIS / VNS / RSE / THULE Aeroblade

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