I've been meaning to do this for a while. I did the install around 7-8 months ago so this is not as fresh in my head as it was then, but life got in the way as they say. This is a write-up of how I installed the BW EFR7163 Turbo in my '07 S60R. This is purely my experience and suggestion and I take no responsibility or liability for any actions taken based on this write-up... end legal-speak rant, LOL. I'll break this up into sections to make it easier to follow.
Engine: Note that this turbo is extremely capable at pushing your engine beyond its limits. It will make in excess of 30 psi no problem. Except somewhere in the neighborhood of 450 awhp with enhanced octane fuel (read on) + meth or closer to 500 awhp with E85. I rebuilt my engine with Darton sleeves, K1 H-beam Rods, Wiseco pistons, ARP studs and all new bearings. An option is a thicker walled 2.3L block as others have run or shimming the factory 2.5L block. Whatever path you choose, be mindful that this turbo produces very high torque as well as top end and the torque is what might kill your engine first. Personally speaking, I wouldn't run this on a shimmed 2.5L engine without limiting peak boost and boost onset. Speak to your tuner about how to best approach. Unrestrained, this turbo will spit out 10 psi in the blink of an eye. It spools extremely fast thanks to the fancy Gamma-Ti wheel.
Tune: Goes without saying that you'll need a capable custom tune. Gustav (Contrast) tuned mine and I highly recommend him. There are likely a couple others out there who can tune it, but I have no experience with them and will leave that to you to research.
Charge Cooler (Intercooler): The factory twin charge cooler setup cannot handle this turbo. You will need a capable sized cooler like offered by RaceS60R (what I run), Snabb or others. A water cooled option is also an option if you want to go that route. Make sure you use capable clamps (T-bolt style or V-band as examples) everywhere or get used to blowing charge pipes off regularly!
Turbo Inlet Pipe: I run a Snabb inlet pipe/couplers. The coupler at the turbo inlet is a bit large as it's a 2.75" coupler IIRC and compressor inlet is only 2.5". I cut a piece of a straight 2.5" silicone coupler (maybe 1" in length) and installed that onto the compressor inlet then placed the Snabb coupler over it. This works well once clamped in place. Note that the coupler on the opposite side where it meets the MAF will need to be expanded slightly (careful use of a heat gun works well) to fit over the Audi RS4 MAF. Snabb may have a new version which fits better, but if not or if you're like me and already had the original version, this method works well.
Water/Methanol Injection: With the high boost level capability of this turbo, I would personally consider it mandatory to help cool the air charge. I run the Devil's Own setup with progressive controller. It's set to start injecting around 12 psi and reach max by around 25 psi. I use a DO7 nozzle placed in the charge pipe around a foot or so before the throttle body.
Fuel System: Minimum injector is 1000cc. I use ID1050X injectors which are enough for a pump gas tune. If you want to run E85, you'll want 1300cc injectors. I also use an Aeromotive 340 fuel pump which can fit into the factory fuel hat with some minor filing of the ribs of the hat which contact the pump housing. I also use a Torqbyte PM3 which should be considered mandatory with this fuel pump due to the high current draw. You can find write-ups on how to install these on the forum. I highly suggest that you run 10 AWG wiring from the PM3 all the way to the pump. Doing so requires creating terminals on the hat using aluminum (best for conduction) or stainless steel hardware. Yes, you need to drill holes in the hat, but with some good sizing and use of sealant, they can be sealed. Factory fuel lines and fuel rail have proven to be adequate with this setup on pump gas. Also consider octane level. I was getting excessive timing retard with 93 octane + methanol injection so decided to add 16 oz of Torco Accelerator per 10 gallons of gas to yield 98 octane. This has made a huge difference in timing advance and power delivery. I highly recommend this stuff... https://torcoracefuel.net/2-docs/acc...r-ratio-93.gif
Oil and Coolant supply: This turbo is water and oil cooled so you need to tap into the factory lines for this. As expected, the ports are not identical to the factory K24, so you have to create custom lines (they are not available for purchase) using braided line & AN fittings or have someone fab them out of bent metal. I chose to do the former as it was easier for me to tackle it myself. I will provide images and links to hardware below. Very important to heat sleeve these lines. I cannot overstress this, the heat produced by the turbo is enough to cook the rubber inside these lines in no time despite having a metal braid. There are a number of options out there, but I recommend something like this https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-18...mp+heat+sleeve I actually used a velcro backed heat sleeve similar to this but did not feel the velcro would hold-up overtime so replaced it with titanium header wrap like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Exhaust manifold connection: There's a very neat and clean flange adapter combo to pull this off. It requires a Volvo manifold T3 flange adpater from ATP and a 3" V-Band flange available from Full Race (which is where I purchased my turbo as well). The two flanges need to be welded together. Once complete, you bolt it up to the factory exhaust manifold using a combination of carefully chosen (i.e., low profile) bolts and nuts. Study the images below and you'll understand why I went with thin jam nuts. I used red Loctite on them and have had zero issues with sealing or fasteners backing out so don't let the concern you.
Downpipe: The angle and position of the exhaust flange on the turbo are significantly different than the factory turbo so you will need to have your existing aftermarket downpipe cut and modified or have a new 3" downpipe created from scratch. I already had an IPD 3" downpipe so chose to have my go to welded guy do some of his amazing fab work using T304 stainless pie sections and wire to make the beauty in the pics down below. I eventually added the same Titanium exhaust wrap to the portion of the downpipe
MAF & Boost pressure sensor: An upgraded 3.5 bar boost pressure sensor (0261230293 ,0261230220) and Audi RS4 MAF (0280218067) are required to run this setup. The tuner will adjust parameters to accomodate these accordingly. Do not expect to install these and have a functioning car without a modified tune to go along with them. The boost sensor is physically a plug and play item. You will need to install an Audi style MAF connector and splice it into your factory MAF wiring as well as modify the factory airbox or run without it. I chose to modify my factory airbox. There are write-ups on the forum about this. Use a non-oiled style air filter to avoid MAF problems.
Ignition System: OEM Bosch coils are fine. I had IPD HD coils and after 50k or so miles of use, had a couple miss-firing so replaced with a new set of Bosch OEM. For plugs, use the NGK LFR7AIX as they're one step colder than stock and work well with this combo. I have no miss-fires with this setup and 33 lbs of boost.
CBV (Compressor bypass valve): The EFR turbo comes with it's own CBV built-in. I also had an external version leftover from an older (Cavalli) turbo setup which didn't have its own CBV so I chose to leave that in place as well.
TCV (Turbo Control Valve): I used the factory TCV. My tuner likes it. I think he can also accomodate the TCV included with the EFR turbo.
Wastegate: The version of the EFR turbo I chose comes with very capable internal wastegate. It is very important that you purchase the upgraded high boost wg actuator if you choose to run > 20 psi.
Other supporting mods: An upgraded clutch is a must if you have a manual trans car. I use the Spec Stg 3+ and SMF from Viva and have had zero issues with this combo with this and two previous turbo setups. Also inspect your angle gear collar sleeve to trans splines while you have it out for the turbo install. I also installed an oil/water separator for the crank case by tapping into the PTC element connection on the turbo inlet hose. This is optional, but for my peace of mind. My engine is still quite new with extremely low leakdown values (2-3%) which likely explains why I get little to no oil into the inlet.
Turbo: Borg Warner B1 EFR 7163F 0.85 a/r VOF WG V-Band Inlet with High Boost WG Actuator, I also chose to ceramic coat the turbine housing
Turbo Discharge Piping: I run a Snabb discharge pipe - AKA OTE (Over the engine) pipe. At first, I was able to use it unmodified with the funky offset expanding coupler that Snabb provides in their kits. This is the coupler which attaches the OTE pipe to the turbo. Unfortunately, the severe pressure spikes with this setup are what I think ultimately caused it to rupture. Even a replacement suffered the same failure. So, my solution was to replace this coupler with a reducing 2.5" to 2" 45 degree coupler... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also had to cut the OTE pipe in half more or less and rotate the two pieces and then secure them with a 2.5" coupler like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and 4 clamps to prevent it from blowing off. I had planned on this as a temporary fix, but found that it holds very well once properly secured so I haven't yet had the two pieces welded together instead (I may in the future). See pics below.
Rear Engine Mount Modification: The rear engine mount needs to be clearanced. A little help from an angle grinder fitted with a metal grinding wheel will do the trick. Expect a mess from it. I had already done this mod with a previous Cavalli turbo install so didn't take many pictures. When you test fit the turbo, you'll be able to rotate it about the mounting flange and see where the interference exists before getting the ideal fitment.
Turbo Install notes: The compressor housing and exhaust housings can be clocked (rotated) independent of the center cartridge. Similarly, the wastegate actuator can be clocked as well. More details available on the EFR installation guide, but essentially you need to clock the turbo in a manner that allows the oil drain to be as close to vertical (no more than 20 degrees from vertical) as possible while aligning the connection to the exhaust manifold with the compressor discharge facing near vertical. This will all be apparent once you have the turbo in your hands. It's quite easy to loosen the fasteners and rotate the housings. Just be mindful that the position has to be suitable for the wastegate arm to move freely and also be mindful of centering the comp/turbine wheels when locking down the housings. You don't want them to rub inside the housing!! They somewhat self center, but I learned that you do have to help the process when clamping everything down and check that the assembly spins freely.
EFR install guide link & Tech Brief:
Section in between dashed lines did not load properly in first post so see second post for this section.
EFR Turbo, wg actuator, V band flange and clamps ordered from Full Race...
ATP flange and 14mm banjo fitting order...
Various Fittings & SS Braided Line ordered through Summit Racing...
Oil & Water Line Construction:
I experimented with a couple different angle options on the oil feed/drain fittings so I purchased an extra fitting or two. I also had a couple fittings lying around which do not show up in the order images above. Also refer to pages 37-40 of the Tech Brief linked above. What I found works best...
Oil Feed Line: Note that the turbo is setup for a -4 feed. If you are in cold climate like me, you want to step up to -6. There are NO restrictors in these fittings as the restrictor is built into the turbo housing. Do not add another restrictor or you may starve the turbo of oil! I first tried a reducing -6 to -4 fitting but found it made the end point of the fittings too tall so I instead removed the -4 to 12x1.5 O-ring fitting supplied with the turbo and replaced it with the -6 to 12x1.5mm O-ring fitting. On the block, I installed one of the ATP 14mm to -6 AN flare fittings. It comes with the banjo bolt and crush washers. To connect the block fitting to the -6 AN fitting just installed on the top of the turbo, a stainless steel braided line can be made with a cut to length section of line (probably around 1.5 feet give or take) together with two -6 AN fittings: A straight for the connection at the block and a 45 for the connection on the top of the turbo. As mentioned above, it's imperative to heat sleeve this line. Use a quality heat sleeve rated for extreme temp. UPDATE 11/2019: Turbo heat is not friendly to this line at all. After 3 failed lines resulting in oil leaking onto the exhaust, I replaced the -6 line with a -4 PTFE line. This has been installed and working trouble free for several months now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Whatever you choose - you must heat sleeve this line! I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oil Drain Line: There are different ways to attack this one. I know others have cut the factory hard drain line and ran a length of hose to it. That allows the factory O-ring attachment into the block. I wanted to run braided line all the way and still have a solid seal at the block - also one that would not come loose. This is what I did... First, on the bottom of the turbo, you want a 3/8 NPT to -8 AN fitting (see my order images above). The male 3/8 NPT side screws into the turbo while the Male -8AN side provides a connection for the braided line assembly that will connect to it. To make the fitting for the block side, this is where I got a little creative. I started with another male NPT to male AN fitting and to be honest I don't recall if it was 3/8 or 1/2" NPT, but it's certainly - 8 AN on the other side. They are cheap so buy one of each! I'm thinking it was 3/8 though. Now, I took the factory drain line O-ring (actually two of them) and slid them over the NPT threaded side...butted them right up against the Hex shaped portion of the fitting. I used two to get the best fitment. I then roughed up the area of the block surrounding the drain line area as well as the fitting itself (yes I did this before I installed the O-rings to be sure I cleaned the debris, but you get the point). I thoroughly cleaned the block and fitting with brake cleaner. I then pressed the NPT threaded side of the fitting into the block. The O-rings provided a nice and snug fit/seal, but I wanted more assurance it wouldn't back out so I added epoxy to the roughed up area (yes, JB weld) and allowed it to fully cure overnight before attaching the line which I made next (trust me, it's not going anywhere after setting up). To make the line, start with a 90 degree -8 AN swivel fitting to a suitable cut length of bulk - 8 AN SS braided line (probably less than a foot). Next end with a straight - 8 AN Hose to Female - 8 AN fitting on the other end of the hose (sorry, this was not in my order above as I already had one on hand). This side connects to the fitting installed in the block. Pics follow below. UPDATE 11/2019: After dealing with persistent slow leaks from the oil drain the block, I took a -8 to 7/8-14 fitting and machined the threads down on the 7/8-14 side to allow the fitting to be press fit into the block together with Loc-tite 660. This has been leak free for days of driving and is a much better solution. See more here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...e-engine-block
Coolant Feed Line: Important to note that coolant flows upward through the turbo. This is by design in order to push air out of the housing which may otherwise be trapped there. So, the coolant feed line comes out of the hard coolant pipe near the turbo and over to one of the lower ports on the turbo housing. Into one of these lower ports, you need to install one of the 14mm to -6 AN Banjo fittings from ATP like used for the oil feed above at the turbo housing. From there, you make a braided line using a very short section (6-8" maybe?) of -6 AN SS line with a 90 degree -6 AN Hose to -6 AN Female swivel fitting to fasten to the Banjo fitting on the turbo. The opposite end of the hose just gets forced over the barb on the factory hard coolant pipe and secured with a screw clamp. This hose assembly is further away from the exhaust so less critical to heat sleeve, but if the patient is open as they say, why not?!
Coolant Return Line: Similar story as with the feed line. Install a 14mm to -6 AN Banjo fitting into one of the upper coolant ports on the turbo housing. Then make a braided line assembly using a cut section of SS braided line (18" give or take, as with all of these just test fit and trim as necessary) with a straight -6 AN Hose to -6 AN Female fitting to mate to the Banjo bolt and route the hose up and over the turbo toward the RH side of vehicle and force the other end of the hose over the barb on the factory hard coolant pipe and secured with a clamp. Definitely heat sleeve this hose!!
Also, my write-up doesn't go into how to remove the factory turbo with its oil and coolant lines as well as disconnect the downpipe and remove it. The angle gear needs to come out to do this install as well. Tie the propshaft out of the way. You can find more on the forum for these steps or within VIDA.
OK, like that isn't enough info right?!! Pictures are next. Read and study the EFR Tech Brief linked above - it's an invaluable document! It goes into details like how to adjust the WG actuator rod for example. This is key before you start tuning.