EFR7163 Turbo Upgrade and Installation
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    1. #1
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      Thumbs up EFR7163 Turbo Upgrade and Installation

      I've been meaning to do this for a while. I did the install around 7-8 months ago so this is not as fresh in my head as it was then, but life got in the way as they say. This is a write-up of how I installed the BW EFR7163 Turbo in my '07 S60R. This is purely my experience and suggestion and I take no responsibility or liability for any actions taken based on this write-up... end legal-speak rant, LOL. I'll break this up into sections to make it easier to follow.

      Engine: Note that this turbo is extremely capable at pushing your engine beyond its limits. It will make in excess of 30 psi no problem. Except somewhere in the neighborhood of 450 awhp with enhanced octane fuel (read on) + meth or closer to 500 awhp with E85. I rebuilt my engine with Darton sleeves, K1 H-beam Rods, Wiseco pistons, ARP studs and all new bearings. An option is a thicker walled 2.3L block as others have run or shimming the factory 2.5L block. Whatever path you choose, be mindful that this turbo produces very high torque as well as top end and the torque is what might kill your engine first. Personally speaking, I wouldn't run this on a shimmed 2.5L engine without limiting peak boost and boost onset. Speak to your tuner about how to best approach. Unrestrained, this turbo will spit out 10 psi in the blink of an eye. It spools extremely fast thanks to the fancy Gamma-Ti wheel.

      Tune: Goes without saying that you'll need a capable custom tune. Gustav (Contrast) tuned mine and I highly recommend him. There are likely a couple others out there who can tune it, but I have no experience with them and will leave that to you to research.

      Charge Cooler (Intercooler): The factory twin charge cooler setup cannot handle this turbo. You will need a capable sized cooler like offered by RaceS60R (what I run), Snabb or others. A water cooled option is also an option if you want to go that route. Make sure you use capable clamps (T-bolt style or V-band as examples) everywhere or get used to blowing charge pipes off regularly!

      Turbo Inlet Pipe: I run a Snabb inlet pipe/couplers. The coupler at the turbo inlet is a bit large as it's a 2.75" coupler IIRC and compressor inlet is only 2.5". I cut a piece of a straight 2.5" silicone coupler (maybe 1" in length) and installed that onto the compressor inlet then placed the Snabb coupler over it. This works well once clamped in place. Note that the coupler on the opposite side where it meets the MAF will need to be expanded slightly (careful use of a heat gun works well) to fit over the Audi RS4 MAF. Snabb may have a new version which fits better, but if not or if you're like me and already had the original version, this method works well.

      Water/Methanol Injection: With the high boost level capability of this turbo, I would personally consider it mandatory to help cool the air charge. I run the Devil's Own setup with progressive controller. It's set to start injecting around 12 psi and reach max by around 25 psi. I use a DO7 nozzle placed in the charge pipe around a foot or so before the throttle body.

      Fuel System: Minimum injector is 1000cc. I use ID1050X injectors which are enough for a pump gas tune. If you want to run E85, you'll want 1300cc injectors. I also use an Aeromotive 340 fuel pump which can fit into the factory fuel hat with some minor filing of the ribs of the hat which contact the pump housing. I also use a Torqbyte PM3 which should be considered mandatory with this fuel pump due to the high current draw. You can find write-ups on how to install these on the forum. I highly suggest that you run 10 AWG wiring from the PM3 all the way to the pump. Doing so requires creating terminals on the hat using aluminum (best for conduction) or stainless steel hardware. Yes, you need to drill holes in the hat, but with some good sizing and use of sealant, they can be sealed. Factory fuel lines and fuel rail have proven to be adequate with this setup on pump gas. Also consider octane level. I was getting excessive timing retard with 93 octane + methanol injection so decided to add 16 oz of Torco Accelerator per 10 gallons of gas to yield 98 octane. This has made a huge difference in timing advance and power delivery. I highly recommend this stuff... https://torcoracefuel.net/2-docs/acc...r-ratio-93.gif

      Oil and Coolant supply: This turbo is water and oil cooled so you need to tap into the factory lines for this. As expected, the ports are not identical to the factory K24, so you have to create custom lines (they are not available for purchase) using braided line & AN fittings or have someone fab them out of bent metal. I chose to do the former as it was easier for me to tackle it myself. I will provide images and links to hardware below. Very important to heat sleeve these lines. I cannot overstress this, the heat produced by the turbo is enough to cook the rubber inside these lines in no time despite having a metal braid. There are a number of options out there, but I recommend something like this https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-18...mp+heat+sleeve I actually used a velcro backed heat sleeve similar to this but did not feel the velcro would hold-up overtime so replaced it with titanium header wrap like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

      Exhaust manifold connection: There's a very neat and clean flange adapter combo to pull this off. It requires a Volvo manifold T3 flange adpater from ATP and a 3" V-Band flange available from Full Race (which is where I purchased my turbo as well). The two flanges need to be welded together. Once complete, you bolt it up to the factory exhaust manifold using a combination of carefully chosen (i.e., low profile) bolts and nuts. Study the images below and you'll understand why I went with thin jam nuts. I used red Loctite on them and have had zero issues with sealing or fasteners backing out so don't let the concern you.

      Downpipe: The angle and position of the exhaust flange on the turbo are significantly different than the factory turbo so you will need to have your existing aftermarket downpipe cut and modified or have a new 3" downpipe created from scratch. I already had an IPD 3" downpipe so chose to have my go to welded guy do some of his amazing fab work using T304 stainless pie sections and wire to make the beauty in the pics down below. I eventually added the same Titanium exhaust wrap to the portion of the downpipe

      MAF & Boost pressure sensor: An upgraded 3.5 bar boost pressure sensor (0261230293 ,0261230220) and Audi RS4 MAF (0280218067) are required to run this setup. The tuner will adjust parameters to accomodate these accordingly. Do not expect to install these and have a functioning car without a modified tune to go along with them. The boost sensor is physically a plug and play item. You will need to install an Audi style MAF connector and splice it into your factory MAF wiring as well as modify the factory airbox or run without it. I chose to modify my factory airbox. There are write-ups on the forum about this. Use a non-oiled style air filter to avoid MAF problems.

      Ignition System: OEM Bosch coils are fine. I had IPD HD coils and after 50k or so miles of use, had a couple miss-firing so replaced with a new set of Bosch OEM. For plugs, use the NGK LFR7AIX as they're one step colder than stock and work well with this combo. I have no miss-fires with this setup and 33 lbs of boost.

      CBV (Compressor bypass valve): The EFR turbo comes with it's own CBV built-in. I also had an external version leftover from an older (Cavalli) turbo setup which didn't have its own CBV so I chose to leave that in place as well.

      TCV (Turbo Control Valve): I used the factory TCV. My tuner likes it. I think he can also accomodate the TCV included with the EFR turbo.

      Wastegate: The version of the EFR turbo I chose comes with very capable internal wastegate. It is very important that you purchase the upgraded high boost wg actuator if you choose to run > 20 psi.

      Other supporting mods: An upgraded clutch is a must if you have a manual trans car. I use the Spec Stg 3+ and SMF from Viva and have had zero issues with this combo with this and two previous turbo setups. Also inspect your angle gear collar sleeve to trans splines while you have it out for the turbo install. I also installed an oil/water separator for the crank case by tapping into the PTC element connection on the turbo inlet hose. This is optional, but for my peace of mind. My engine is still quite new with extremely low leakdown values (2-3%) which likely explains why I get little to no oil into the inlet.

      Turbo: Borg Warner B1 EFR 7163F 0.85 a/r VOF WG V-Band Inlet with High Boost WG Actuator, I also chose to ceramic coat the turbine housing

      Turbo Discharge Piping: I run a Snabb discharge pipe - AKA OTE (Over the engine) pipe. At first, I was able to use it unmodified with the funky offset expanding coupler that Snabb provides in their kits. This is the coupler which attaches the OTE pipe to the turbo. Unfortunately, the severe pressure spikes with this setup are what I think ultimately caused it to rupture. Even a replacement suffered the same failure. So, my solution was to replace this coupler with a reducing 2.5" to 2" 45 degree coupler... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also had to cut the OTE pipe in half more or less and rotate the two pieces and then secure them with a 2.5" coupler like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and 4 clamps to prevent it from blowing off. I had planned on this as a temporary fix, but found that it holds very well once properly secured so I haven't yet had the two pieces welded together instead (I may in the future). See pics below.

      Rear Engine Mount Modification: The rear engine mount needs to be clearanced. A little help from an angle grinder fitted with a metal grinding wheel will do the trick. Expect a mess from it. I had already done this mod with a previous Cavalli turbo install so didn't take many pictures. When you test fit the turbo, you'll be able to rotate it about the mounting flange and see where the interference exists before getting the ideal fitment.

      Turbo Install notes: The compressor housing and exhaust housings can be clocked (rotated) independent of the center cartridge. Similarly, the wastegate actuator can be clocked as well. More details available on the EFR installation guide, but essentially you need to clock the turbo in a manner that allows the oil drain to be as close to vertical (no more than 20 degrees from vertical) as possible while aligning the connection to the exhaust manifold with the compressor discharge facing near vertical. This will all be apparent once you have the turbo in your hands. It's quite easy to loosen the fasteners and rotate the housings. Just be mindful that the position has to be suitable for the wastegate arm to move freely and also be mindful of centering the comp/turbine wheels when locking down the housings. You don't want them to rub inside the housing!! They somewhat self center, but I learned that you do have to help the process when clamping everything down and check that the assembly spins freely.

      EFR install guide link & Tech Brief:
      https://www.full-race.com/articles/e...ll-guidelines/
      https://www.full-race.com/article/efrturbotechbrief.pdf

      Section in between dashed lines did not load properly in first post so see second post for this section.
      -----------------------------------------------------

      EFR Turbo, wg actuator, V band flange and clamps ordered from Full Race...

      Attachment 46061

      ATP flange and 14mm banjo fitting order...

      Attachment 46063

      Various Fittings & SS Braided Line ordered through Summit Racing...

      Attachment 46073

      Attachment 46075

      Attachment 46077

      -----------------------------------------------------

      Oil & Water Line Construction:
      I experimented with a couple different angle options on the oil feed/drain fittings so I purchased an extra fitting or two. I also had a couple fittings lying around which do not show up in the order images above. Also refer to pages 37-40 of the Tech Brief linked above. What I found works best...

      Oil Feed Line: Note that the turbo is setup for a -4 feed. If you are in cold climate like me, you want to step up to -6. There are NO restrictors in these fittings as the restrictor is built into the turbo housing. Do not add another restrictor or you may starve the turbo of oil! I first tried a reducing -6 to -4 fitting but found it made the end point of the fittings too tall so I instead removed the -4 to 12x1.5 O-ring fitting supplied with the turbo and replaced it with the -6 to 12x1.5mm O-ring fitting. On the block, I installed one of the ATP 14mm to -6 AN flare fittings. It comes with the banjo bolt and crush washers. To connect the block fitting to the -6 AN fitting just installed on the top of the turbo, a stainless steel braided line can be made with a cut to length section of line (probably around 1.5 feet give or take) together with two -6 AN fittings: A straight for the connection at the block and a 45 for the connection on the top of the turbo. As mentioned above, it's imperative to heat sleeve this line. Use a quality heat sleeve rated for extreme temp. UPDATE 11/2019: Turbo heat is not friendly to this line at all. After 3 failed lines resulting in oil leaking onto the exhaust, I replaced the -6 line with a -4 PTFE line. This has been installed and working trouble free for several months now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Whatever you choose - you must heat sleeve this line! I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


      Oil Drain Line: There are different ways to attack this one. I know others have cut the factory hard drain line and ran a length of hose to it. That allows the factory O-ring attachment into the block. I wanted to run braided line all the way and still have a solid seal at the block - also one that would not come loose. This is what I did... First, on the bottom of the turbo, you want a 3/8 NPT to -8 AN fitting (see my order images above). The male 3/8 NPT side screws into the turbo while the Male -8AN side provides a connection for the braided line assembly that will connect to it. To make the fitting for the block side, this is where I got a little creative. I started with another male NPT to male AN fitting and to be honest I don't recall if it was 3/8 or 1/2" NPT, but it's certainly - 8 AN on the other side. They are cheap so buy one of each! I'm thinking it was 3/8 though. Now, I took the factory drain line O-ring (actually two of them) and slid them over the NPT threaded side...butted them right up against the Hex shaped portion of the fitting. I used two to get the best fitment. I then roughed up the area of the block surrounding the drain line area as well as the fitting itself (yes I did this before I installed the O-rings to be sure I cleaned the debris, but you get the point). I thoroughly cleaned the block and fitting with brake cleaner. I then pressed the NPT threaded side of the fitting into the block. The O-rings provided a nice and snug fit/seal, but I wanted more assurance it wouldn't back out so I added epoxy to the roughed up area (yes, JB weld) and allowed it to fully cure overnight before attaching the line which I made next (trust me, it's not going anywhere after setting up). To make the line, start with a 90 degree -8 AN swivel fitting to a suitable cut length of bulk - 8 AN SS braided line (probably less than a foot). Next end with a straight - 8 AN Hose to Female - 8 AN fitting on the other end of the hose (sorry, this was not in my order above as I already had one on hand). This side connects to the fitting installed in the block. Pics follow below. UPDATE 11/2019: After dealing with persistent slow leaks from the oil drain the block, I took a -8 to 7/8-14 fitting and machined the threads down on the 7/8-14 side to allow the fitting to be press fit into the block together with Loc-tite 660. This has been leak free for days of driving and is a much better solution. See more here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...e-engine-block

      Coolant Feed Line: Important to note that coolant flows upward through the turbo. This is by design in order to push air out of the housing which may otherwise be trapped there. So, the coolant feed line comes out of the hard coolant pipe near the turbo and over to one of the lower ports on the turbo housing. Into one of these lower ports, you need to install one of the 14mm to -6 AN Banjo fittings from ATP like used for the oil feed above at the turbo housing. From there, you make a braided line using a very short section (6-8" maybe?) of -6 AN SS line with a 90 degree -6 AN Hose to -6 AN Female swivel fitting to fasten to the Banjo fitting on the turbo. The opposite end of the hose just gets forced over the barb on the factory hard coolant pipe and secured with a screw clamp. This hose assembly is further away from the exhaust so less critical to heat sleeve, but if the patient is open as they say, why not?!

      Coolant Return Line: Similar story as with the feed line. Install a 14mm to -6 AN Banjo fitting into one of the upper coolant ports on the turbo housing. Then make a braided line assembly using a cut section of SS braided line (18" give or take, as with all of these just test fit and trim as necessary) with a straight -6 AN Hose to -6 AN Female fitting to mate to the Banjo bolt and route the hose up and over the turbo toward the RH side of vehicle and force the other end of the hose over the barb on the factory hard coolant pipe and secured with a clamp. Definitely heat sleeve this hose!!

      Also, my write-up doesn't go into how to remove the factory turbo with its oil and coolant lines as well as disconnect the downpipe and remove it. The angle gear needs to come out to do this install as well. Tie the propshaft out of the way. You can find more on the forum for these steps or within VIDA.

      OK, like that isn't enough info right?!! Pictures are next. Read and study the EFR Tech Brief linked above - it's an invaluable document! It goes into details like how to adjust the WG actuator rod for example. This is key before you start tuning.
      Last edited by ElementR; 11-28-2019 at 01:57 PM. Reason: Added new info
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

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    3. #2
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      I think that was too much info for one post so the images got removed. Replace above missing images with these...

      EFR Turbo, wg actuator, V band flange and clamps ordered from Full Race...

      EFROrder.jpg

      ATP flange and 14mm banjo fitting order...

      ATP Order.jpg

      Various Fittings & SS Braided Line ordered through Summit Racing...

      Fittings.jpg

      Fittings2.jpg

      Fittings3.jpg
      Last edited by ElementR; 11-16-2018 at 03:37 PM.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    4. #3
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      Exhaust Manifold Flange Mounted:

      Tough to tell in the pics I posted, but if you take a look at this one, you'll note how the top two factory studs stick out quite a bit past the adapter flange. I ended up cutting them down with a cut off wheel on an angle grinder and then extending the threads all the way to the base of the studs with a threading die. This allowed me to still use the studs as a mounting aid while still allowing me to fit thin jam nuts under the V band flange with the adapter mounted. On the bottom two mounting holes, I used two short SS bolts inserted from the front side through the flange and fastened with the same thin jam nuts... in order to pull that off, you actually need to place the jam nuts on the flange while you thread the bolts in through the front side of the flange. Otherwise, you can't fit the nuts over the ends of the bolts since the V band is in the way (it has to be installed before these two bolts go in or you'll never get it on). Another way of attacking this is using hex key head bolts since they are very thin, but I didn't have any locally so made due. Point is that it's a very tight fit, but it does work!

      IMG_1287.jpg

      Test Fitting Turbo

      IMG_1288.jpg

      Clearanced Rear Engine Mount

      IMG_1291.jpg

      Compressor inlet adapter piece

      IMG_1316.jpg

      Compressor inlet adapter piece installed

      IMG_1317.jpg
      Last edited by ElementR; 11-16-2018 at 05:51 PM.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

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      Last edited by ElementR; 11-16-2018 at 04:12 PM.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

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      Last edited by ElementR; 11-16-2018 at 04:35 PM.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    8. #6
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      Nice write-up Andy. Good job.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    9. #7
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      More room for more pics. Thx MiniBar
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

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      OTE pipe mod. Quad clamps + Hairspray on the coupler (seriously). Hey, it works. May eventually replace all that with a nice weld bead.

      IMG_1874.jpg

      Injectors...

      IMG_1305.jpg

      Three turbos... K24 Hyrbid, Cavalli and EFR7163

      IMG_1282.jpg

      Another shot of the engine mount clearancing required (this was taken in the mock-up phase of the install)...

      IMG_1295.jpg
      Last edited by ElementR; 11-16-2018 at 05:27 PM.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    11. #9
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      nice job!







      more pics please
      2000 Toyota Tacoma
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      1997 Avalon - gone - son - space-force

    12. #10
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      you have to have a down-slope angle on oil return line or at least parallel at that mid section stretch ...thats all done?
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    13. #11
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      Yep, it's hard to tell in that pic. It comes down through the 90 then runs parallel to the drain in the block.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    14. #12
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      Also, I spent a lot of time ensuring that line was at least parallel. It's possible that isn't the final install pic. I took a lot and it's been a while! I also restrained the line so that it was sloped as ideal as possible... not shown in that pic obviously.

      More pics here...
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
      Also, I spent a lot of time ensuring that line was at least parallel. It's possible that isn't the final install pic. I took a lot and it's been a while! I also restrained the line so that it was sloped as ideal as possible... not shown in that pic obviously.

      More pics here...


      Good 👍... with the angle gear right there it's impossible to give it a slope ... ask me how I know ...lol...parallel will work.
      2000 Toyota Tacoma
      2000 ML320
      2000 ML55 AMG
      2005 XCR90
      2006 C70
      2006 S60R - gone
      1997 Avalon - gone - son - space-force

    16. #14
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      Yeah, no doubt a PITA to get it right. And once the angle gear is in, you don't want to go back in there!
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    17. #15
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      Some pics of the turbo new out of the box...

      IMG_1108.jpg

      IMG_1109.jpg

      IMG_1110.jpg


      Welding the ATP T3 flange to the V band flange...

      IMG_1116.jpg

      IMG_1119.jpg
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    18. #16
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      Purdy welds...

      IMG_1234.jpg
      Last edited by ElementR; 11-16-2018 at 05:35 PM.

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      Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
      Yeah, no doubt a PITA to get it right. And once the angle gear is in, you don't want to go back in there!
      With my stock oem style set up i can go back remove the return tube with the AG in place within 5min...😚...i like to keep things stock...😊
      2000 Toyota Tacoma
      2000 ML320
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    20. #18
      Member khalil_y's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
      Purdy welds...

      IMG_1234.jpg
      Brett is a great welder! I ordered my turbo last night but also got an extra SX-E compressor cover so I can get the T51R mod done. The car is gonna whistle like no tomorrow

      Thanks so much for this, it will help me a ton!
      Stage 3 Electric Silver 06 S60R 6SPD #TeamTF80, 12.6 1/4 @114mph. Build thread here
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      Quote Originally Posted by rmorse View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by AthruC View Post
      It is flaccid in nature, and makes me uncomfortable to talk about.
      Ugh. Story of my life.

    21. #19
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      Nice! Yes, he does awesome work. Have plans for him to do some work for mustang as well.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
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    22. #20
      Very nice, Andy!

      Lot of valuable info for people looking to upgrade. In my opinion the 500+ bhp range is ideal for daily driving. This setup and turbo provides this with ease. Excellent response and power.

      To contribute to the thread here are the part numbers for turbo and high boost wastegate canister:

      EFR7163 0.85 ar V-Band inlet and exhaust - 11639880006
      High boost wastegate canister - 179284
      2004 S60R MT | Sapphire Black | Atacama | Tuned by myself | And a lot more...

    23. #21
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      Thanks Gustav and for your tuning skillz! Those part numbers are actually buried in the first picture above (see my second post). I know it's a lot of info to weed through!! I tried to include whatever came to mind to help others avoid potential issues.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
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    24. #22
      Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
      Those part numbers are actually buried in the first picture above (see my second post)
      2004 S60R MT | Sapphire Black | Atacama | Tuned by myself | And a lot more...

    25. #23
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      Lmfao gusty
      2000 Toyota Tacoma
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      1997 Avalon - gone - son - space-force

    26. #24
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      Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
      Yeah, no doubt a PITA to get it right. And once the angle gear is in, you don't want to go back in there!
      It’s not so bad.... replaced my -10AN drain line with the AG in because I didn’t like the drop of the first setup. Takes a little patience.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    27. #25
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      Really glad you took the time to build this thread.... nice work.

      I personally think this is the perfect setup and wish I had done the 7163 out of the gate instead of going the 6758 first and then upgrading


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    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by contrast View Post
      LOL, I was serious when I said it's a lot of info to weed through! But that was worth a good laugh!
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
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    29. #27
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      Is that you Neal? Under a new alias?
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    30. #28
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      This Vibrant fitting worked very well to tuck the drain tight and create slope to the block.




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    31. #29
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      Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
      Is that you Neal? Under a new alias?
      I changed my alias to MiniBar after Doug drove me to drinking for getting passed by a MiniCooper S track car at my last track day.


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    32. #30
      Member Red_Devil's Avatar
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      Nice work Andy and write up holy details lol.
      Last edited by Red_Devil; 11-17-2018 at 08:24 AM.
      2018 Leadfoot Ford Raptor semi built 600hp, 2020 Audi RS3.
      05 S60R MT, Stock block 578AWHP, 12.2 1/4 mile at 124 mph. Built 804 AWHP. Built engine, Cnc ported head, Front & Rear LSD, Ported Gen 2 T4 GTX3584RS hybrid, Turbosmart 45mm WG, Tial QR Bov, Enem Y21 Cams, Radium Surge tank, 1700cc Id's, Triple Walbro 485's, PM3, Devils Own meth injection, speed density converted mafless setup, Bell FMIC, Snabb air box, Poly, Milletech intake manifold, IP plasma coils, IP Plasma lift. Snabb shifter. TTV Twin Clutch. GB Forgestar F-14's, Enkei RSF5, KW V2'S, Ur Braces, Vr sways, IPD toe bars. Built to the hill.

    33. #31
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      Yep, gotta love them details Travis. LOL

      I spent a lot of time putting this together, but it's been on my mind for a while so wanted to do it justice!

      Nice, Neal... I thought that was you. No worries... the Mini Cooper probably had a turbo LS motor in it... they are in everything these days.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    34. #32
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      Great job! But I would like to know how the machine realizes its potential in seconds.
      Volvo s60 2,5 AWD 2004, 1/4 mile 12,18 187 km / h

    35. #33
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      Excellent write up. I have no desire other than to keep mine stock, but one question I have always had is how does the drive line - angle gear etc. - handle the huge increase in HP? Thanks.
      "All that is necessary for evil to succeed is that good men do nothing" - Edmund Burke
      2007 S60R Magic Blue Metallic/Gobi MT 70,000+ miles (IPD intercooler, Hawk ceramics)
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    36. #34
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      180k on my original trans and zero issues with it. The clutch was upgraded as mentioned of course. The angle gear was original until around 10k or so ago and had seen at least 100k with a mix of stage 2, Cavalli turbo and hybrid turbo. It started making an annoying sound around 15k ago, but never failed. I replaced it around 10k or so ago with a used angle gear. Axles, prop shaft, etc all seem to handle it just fine. Keep in mind that I don't do hard launches with the car.

      I have a Draggy which I purchased to document performance, but I haven't had enough seat time with it yet. I'm a busy guy with 4 young kids so I don't have the time to get out and flog the car as much I'd like to. That said, I can assure you that it's much quicker than stock, LOL. The main point to me is that after nearly 12 years of owning it, I finally got the R I always wanted. It is quick enough to put a smile on my face every time I mash the pedal and that's all that really matters. This turbo delivers instant acceleration and just keeps pulling. It's not a drag car nor track car just a fun street car that serves as my daily driver. There are few cars I would replace it with... a C7 Audi S6 with some choice upgrades or an Audi RS3 with a turbo upgrade might persuade me, but this R is a ton of fun and would always be missed if I ever did that... I have no plans to sell it all being said.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT Darton Sleeved/Rods/Pistons, RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, EFR7163, PM3, Aeromotive 340 fp, ID1050x, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4, Tial 605's, built engine, etc
      93 Mustang Cobra, Incon Twin Turbo 347 Dart, etc

    37. #35
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      Super grateful for this topic.
      V70 2.4T5 M66 Summum
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