bmassy's 2007 XC70 Build Thread - Page 6
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    1. #176
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      Replaced the sensor with a new one from FCP and while plugging it in, the wires on the plug kinda fell apart and ripped out of the connector lol . Waiting on a replacement pigtail from RM

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    3. #177
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      Replaced the pigtail, crank no start.

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    4. #178
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      Read resistance through the Crank sensor my original read 115ohms, fcp genuine Volvo read 120. Thought it was supposed to read 300 +/- 40 so I went out and got a new one from a local Volvo dealer, that read 128 (guess I was wrong). Connected it, crank no start. Vida says I'm getti g 44psi at the fuel rail in acc (since car cannot start), when to check spark by pulling a plug and placing it close to the head, no spark. Put it back in the cylinder then realized the Crank sensor connector was not plugged in . Got too cold and losing daylight so I called it quits. Tomorrow I'm going to check for spark again... Any suggestions? I was going to pull my ECM and check continuity between the wires but I do not have the tool to remove the ECM... Unless there is a way of removing it without. Kinda pulling at straws now. Only thing I can think of is perhaps the wires to the crank sensor are shorted somewhere. I tried to check for open insulation on the wires but could only see up to under the intake manifold. After that I could not tell where the wires had gone

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    6. #179
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      ECU tool is $20 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-107.../dp/B019MN7IB4

      Besides testing the CPS wiring, which is the next thing to do, how old are your coil packs? I was battling my no-start engine recently. Had all the coils replaced just because they were old (14 y, 220k mi), and it starts fine now. The firing order is 1-2-4-5-3 and I think if the first coil does no do it, the engine won't start. Try to swap, say, coils #1 and #3. Or even move all the coils two positions right: 1 -> 3, 2 -> 4, 3 -> 5, 4 ->1, 5 -> 2. The bolt holding the coil should be tightened! It's the ground point.
      Last edited by vtl; 12-27-2019 at 04:02 PM.

    7. #180
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      ECU tool is $20 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-107.../dp/B019MN7IB4

      Besides testing the CPS wiring, which is the next thing to do, how old are your coil packs? I was battling my no-start engine recently. Had all the coils replaced just because they were old (14 y, 220k mi), and it starts fine now. The firing order is 1-2-4-5-3 and I think if the first coil does no do it, the engine won't start. Try to swap, say, coils #1 and #3. Or even move oil the coils two positions right: 1 -> 3, 2 -> 4, 3 -> 5, 4 ->1, 5 -> 2. The bolt holding the coil should be tightened! It's the ground point.
      It's an 07 Volvo and 197k original coil packs. However when I cleared the code and tried to start the code came right back which leads me to believe it's probably the wiring. I will try what you said by moving the packs over and testing. Prob going to order that ecu tool. Then I can check continuity for the CPS wires.

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    8. #181
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      So I ended up ordering the Ecm removal tool on Amazon (cause prime) and also ordered new bosch coil packs cause it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them (from FCP).

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    9. #182
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      "I know a guy who knows a guy" who had ECM electric failure, one or two coils were not getting signal from ECM. He was able to desolder bad transistors and replace with a new ones. I forgot if it was Denso or Bosch unit. Looking into my spare Bosch I don't see transistor keys. Maybe it is one of the smaller chips.

    10. #183
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      Got my ECM puller in along with new coil packs. I don't think the coil packs are the issue but can't hurt to replace the original 197k mile ones . Should be installing and checking the crank sensor wires for continuity next year no pun intended.

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    11. #184
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      Replace all dried/cracked wire loom along the way when you'll be doing the coil packs.

    12. #185
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      Replace all dried/cracked wire loom along the way when you'll be doing the coil packs.
      Yeah I actually have a bunch of blue wire loom too. Cheap but better than what's there

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      Last edited by bmassy; 01-01-2020 at 06:31 PM.

    13. #186
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      So I pulled the ecm. Tested the crank sensor wires end to end. Both read 2.4ohms and when I test across white and red I get 0. So no short or broken wires.
      Started pulling coil packs and all the wire loom from the head. Lots of bare wire, it's ridiculous. Literally everywhere Volvo taped wires, there's bare wire or they got "glued" together from heat and then became brittle and cracked.
      I'm going to have to order new coil pack pigtails and basically cut all the wires at the beginning near the upper engine mount and redo it all. Who knows if that's why I got a no start, but it needs to get done.

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    14. #187
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      Wow, that's miserable! Make sure to keep everything labeled as you disassemble all the looms.
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    15. #188
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      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      Wow, that's miserable! Make sure to keep everything labeled as you disassemble all the looms.
      Oh yes for sure. I'll prob cut one coil pack at a time too so I don't screw up lol. I'm so pissed

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    16. #189
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      Dang!!
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    17. #190
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      Does anyone know what type of pin is in the connector? I just de-pinned a connector with 2 paper clips but I think it's JPT size but want verification if anyone knows?

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    18. #191
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      Those cables look nasty.
      How many miles on your car?

      Hopefully it doesn’t take too long for you to fix them.
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    19. #192
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      Quote Originally Posted by rogerb View Post
      Those cables look nasty.
      How many miles on your car?

      Hopefully it doesn’t take too long for you to fix them.
      I ordered the JPT pins, rubber seals for the wires that go into the connector and order 14awg silicone wire (it'll never get brittle again). And a bunch of other stuff to protect the new wires.
      Cars only got 197k

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    20. #193
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      Ouch, that bare copper does look crappy. No wonder it wasn't starting.

    21. #194
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      Ouch, that bare copper does look crappy. No wonder it wasn't starting.
      Hope

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    22. #195
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      I hope ECM is not fried, but if it is, the cloning is real quick and simple with a soldering station: just need to transfer the 8-pin EEPROM chip.

    23. #196
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      I hope ECM is not fried, but if it is, the cloning is real quick and simple with a soldering station: just need to transfer the 8-pin EEPROM chip.
      I can read the ecm fine in vida. I would think I wouldn't be able to communicate with it if it was?

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    24. #197
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      Quote Originally Posted by bmassy View Post
      I can read the ecm fine in vida. I would think I wouldn't be able to communicate with it if it was?
      It has transistor keys for the ignition coils, that can burn out. The logic part itself will continue to work, however the coil won't see signal.

    25. #198
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      It has transistor keys for the ignition coils, that can burn out. The logic part itself will continue to work, however the coil won't see signal.
      Ah damn

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    26. #199
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      Got almost all my stuff in to make new coil pack wires. I ordered all the connector accessories from digikey.com. The plugs actually say JPT on it, so I used part number: A107050CT-ND (JPT pins/connectors), I did order yellow seals but they ended up being too big to fit in the connector holes. The blue ones PN: A106225-ND fit perfectly but I had to order smaller JPT awg connectors for the 22AWG silicone wire PN: A123080CT-ND. The wire being used is silver tinned silicone wire 14 awg and 22 awg by BNTECHGO on Amazon. This will never get brittle and crack again. The crimper I used it IWISS HS-30J on Amazon. I am not able to find a proper diameter wire seal for the 14awg wire so I may just say screw it. Oh and the JPT connectors are silver tinned as well. I plan to loom all the wires in blue silicone tubing just incase. More to come soon.

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    27. #200
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      Quote Originally Posted by bmassy View Post
      Got almost all my stuff in to make new coil pack wires. I ordered all the connector accessories from digikey.com. The plugs actually say JPT on it, so I used part number: A107050CT-ND (JPT pins/connectors), I did order yellow seals but they ended up being too big to fit in the connector holes. The blue ones PN: A106225-ND fit perfectly but I had to order smaller JPT awg connectors for the 22AWG silicone wire PN: A123080CT-ND. The wire being used is silver tinned silicone wire 14 awg and 22 awg by BNTECHGO on Amazon. This will never get brittle and crack again. The crimper I used it IWISS HS-30J on Amazon. I am not able to find a proper diameter wire seal for the 14awg wire so I may just say screw it. Oh and the JPT connectors are silver tinned as well. I plan to loom all the wires in blue silicone tubing just incase. More to come soon.

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      I need to do this one day. I've repaired sections of it and installed new looming, but overall I'm not happy with condition of the wiring.
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    28. #201
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      So I wired it all up, doing one coil pack at a time making sure everything was going back to the carrect wires. Batter was a lil low from sitting for a while and previously trying to crank, resting at around 11.5. Car cranked no start... Slowly losing my mind. Currently charging the battery but I don't think thats the issue.

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    29. #202
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      did ya hook up vida? might have to clear some codes before she'll run.
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    30. #203
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      Quote Originally Posted by Racer_S View Post
      did ya hook up vida? might have to clear some codes before she'll run.
      Yes I did clear and tried to start it today and got reduced engine performance after cranking, no start. Same code came back (ECM-5000, RPM sensor faulty signal). I'm beginning to think it could be electromagnetic interference from the starter possibly. Or a dying starter pulling too many amps causing the EMI. I'm going to replace engine ground strap on the passenger side and add or replace a ground on the transmission. There should be a ground on the tranny I would think? I know I added a 0awg ground from the head to a ground on the driver side frame rail and also ground the battery which is 0awg to the same location too. Maybe another ground would help with EMI.

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