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    1. #36
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      So I haven't really done much yet. I'm trying to debate where I want to mount my 3x amps and DSP. I may create a custom enclosure and mount them above each side of the wheel wells or just put them in the spare tire location..

      I've been designing new enclosure for my Sundown X15. It's actually in my car in my old ported box temporarily.

      It will be a 6th Order bandpass 2:1 series tuned. Rear chamber will be 4.05 cubic ft tuned to 28hz and the front chamber will be 2.12 cubes tuned to 56hz with a interchangeable port. It's deffinately a big box lol.

      I may drill thru where the clutch pedal would go to run my 0/1 awg wire back to my battery(s) since I haven't found any existing holes to run my wires thru lol.


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    3. #37
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      Ever since my srs fault I have a dim/flicker of all lights. It's not very noticeable but more noticeable on my interior leds. ONLY when car is running. I'm thinking there is a canbus error and screwing it up? I haven't metered my alternator yet. Still have the original one. And I do have a new battery that floats 12.9v. Any suggestions?

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    4. #38
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      Alternator at idle voltage is 13.9-14.1. Didn't test with a load on it though. Although today I cleaned up the B+ wire at the fuse box under the hood and cleaned up the terminals on my battery since it had some teal colored corrision(?) on it. They are brass posts though. I let them soak in baking soda with hot water than used some chemical guys metal polish I had laying around and got them cleaned up. Doesn't seem like my lights flicker anymore, or just very hard to tell lol.

      Today and yesterday it took a lil to crank over, yesterday it wouldn't. Took 3 tries before turning over and getting reduced engine performance notification that went away as soon as I started driving. Tomorrow I may take a look at the condition of the starter cable and maybe run a new wire with 0awg.

      For the sound system, I may just run the cables under the car and tuck em and zip tie or get some mounts I can bolt in to run the wire to the trunk. I got 2 waterproof grommets I can use to run them thru into the spare tire well.

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    6. #39
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      bmassy's 2007 XC70 Build Thread


      This is a great topic.
      I do like car audio and home for that matter.
      Just suffer from a bad case of lack of money.
      Thankfully my V70 has the upgraded Volvo door speakers and rear sub.
      Better than normal. But no ware as good as a decent after market.
      I have used some good Alpine gear in the past. Good mid price stuff.
      Only things I have done so far is a lot of sound proofing, a nice AMG battery, and a few cable upgrades.

      Also being a 2007 your battery leads will both go through the car to the engine compartment.
      The positive goes to a bolt on the main fuse box, the negative to the rail down below and slightly back of the fuse box.
      So you should be able to follow the same route.

      Keep up the good work.
      Last edited by rogerb; 03-17-2019 at 10:33 PM.
      Silver 2006 V70 D5 manual FWD, fixing slowly.
      Silver S60 D5 manual , need a petrol one. Good parts for the V70 D5.
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    7. #40
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      I was able to follow the power and negative but it doesn't seem like I have enough room to push through the 0/1awg within the same holes. I'll have to look again. I haven't done anything yet since weather is still cool. Lol.

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    8. #41
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      Today was a nice day. Started tearing into the trunk to apply Soundskins Pro sound dampener. I got their mega kit which is 44sq ft of it. I thoroughly cleaned the trunk before applying. Took 90% of one roll to do all the spare tire well. I have a feeling I will be order more as well lol. Going to be using this on the front doors and using dynamat dynaliner on the rear doors for a comparison.
      Big difference in the "knock" test. Hopefully the weather keeps up and I can start working on my amp rack (going in the spare tire well) by tomorrow.
      Also forgot how big my sub was until I took her out
      It's a Sundown Audio X15v1.
      Also found out my exhaust hanger broke off lol.
      In the spare tire well there are 4x grommets 2 in the middle and 2 off to the side near the battery. I think I will run my power and ground wires thru the ones in the middle of the well up to the alternator.

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    9. #42
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      My gracious! That is one big sub...


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      Current: 2003 V70 T5 M56 // Mystic Silver/Charcoal // 162K miles // Koni FSD + Eibachs // Snabb intake + IPD silicone turbo hoses // Copper R Brembos // 18" Pegs // OEM bi-xenons // '05 side mirrors // 18/35 tint // jewel tails // black anodized S80 DIM // R steering wheel // '05 console w/ T5M spaceball // mesh grill with custom ironmark badge 2004 XC70 bone stock for now…
      Previous: 2001 V70 T5M (Nautic/Charcoal) // 1999 V70 NA M56 (Blue-Green Metallic/Charcoal) // 2004 V70R M66 (Titanium/Nordkap) // 1992 244 M47 (Silver/Navy…and the newest, nicest car I'll ever own. Sold on BaT. )

    10. #43
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      Finished up the rear trunk floor I think. Plan on doing the sides around the wheel wells and rear hatch as well. I mocked up odd shapes with painters tape then gently removed it from the car and placed it on the sound skins mat and cut.

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    11. #44
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      Great work.
      Also that is one deep sub.
      Silver 2006 V70 D5 manual FWD, fixing slowly.
      Silver S60 D5 manual , need a petrol one. Good parts for the V70 D5.
      Willow Green 2007 P2 V70 D5 automatic.

    12. #45
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      Quote Originally Posted by rogerb View Post
      Great work.
      Also that is one deep sub.
      Thanks, yeah ik haha . The setup will be more oriented for Sq but should get pretty loud.

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    13. #46
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      Cut a board that I will be mounting in the spare tire well to mount amps to. I will be sanding this down, maybe chamfer the edges. Then paint it.

      I'm still unsure on how to run my power and ground wires to the engine bay. There's a lot of moving parts in the rear end due to the awd, making it difficult to avoid them. I was looking under the car, found some grommets but they don't seem to enter the car.

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    14. #47
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      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    15. #48
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      Quote Originally Posted by Antherzoll View Post


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      I have one lol. Also have 2x 0awg waterproof grommets. Just gotta figure out the best place, I'm think passenger side firewall since the alternator is on that side. But I did run my rcas on the right side so I'll have to run my power and ground on the drivers side and cross over near the footwell lol I got 25' for each wire, should be plenty.

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    16. #49
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      I've ran wiring through the blank for the clutch pedal. In the end, if you delete it's easy to grab another from a JY. I don't plan on a MT swap anytime, I'm enjoying the laziness if the AT .

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      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    17. #50
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      Quote Originally Posted by Antherzoll View Post
      I've ran wiring through the blank for the clutch pedal. In the end, if you delete it's easy to grab another from a JY. I don't plan on a MT swap anytime, I'm enjoying the laziness if the AT .

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      I'm guessing this is the blank for the clutch?IMG_20190330_105956.jpeg

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    18. #51
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      I pulled off the clutch cover plate (if it were like a MT). 2x 8mm nuts on the inside then used my ratchet extension and hammered it till it popped off.

      To my step drill bit and drill 2 holes 1 1/8 (I think) to fit the waterproof grommets that are for 0/1 awg (purchased from skyhighcaraudio.com)

      Every 2 ft or so I would push the wire into the hole then go around and pull it and continued this for 25ft lengths lol.

      I put tech flex on the power wire (waiting for more for the negative) and without thinking I crimped on a lug. I plan on adding a 300A breaker on each side (engine side and battery side). Those are currently in the mail.

      I'm going to have to remove my front driver seat to run the cables. I had to clean up for work so I threw my wires behind the front seat temporarily lol.

      Coming along... Slowly. Lol. IMG_20190330_105956.jpeg

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    19. #52
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      THICC


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      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    20. #53
      I’m not an audiophile but I’m enjoying your process, especially the sound deadening parts because I’m trying to reduce the noise in my S60. How do you like the matting you’ve added so far? Is your car much quieter, and have you experienced a big reduction in road noise and outside noise intrusion?
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    21. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      I’m not an audiophile but I’m enjoying your process, especially the sound deadening parts because I’m trying to reduce the noise in my S60. How do you like the matting you’ve added so far? Is your car much quieter, and have you experienced a big reduction in road noise and outside noise intrusion?
      I wouldn't say it's a "big" difference but has been noticeably quieter. I still have to do my hatch and I plan on putting it on the inside of the panels that cover the rear wheel wells. Also going to do the doors when I get to that stage. Not sure about the roof because headliners are a pia to take off lol.

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      Last edited by bmassy; 03-31-2019 at 08:46 PM.

    22. #55
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      For anyone who is interested in a high output alternator..

      I plan on getting one at some point, currently still on the stock alternator, 12yrs now lol.. I'd like to get the 275A one. Some day I'd like to build a C pillar wall for 2 X15s in a series tuned 6th order

      Singer Alternators makes multiple HO alts for our cars which is surprising! I know he makes a lot for different vehicles. Usually the Basshead need these to keep voltage stable when competing or just pounding away. Here's what he has to offer.

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    23. #56
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      Got time to finish running my power and ground wires. I followed the OEM wiring to the battery. The first picture is under drivers seat.

      So I purchased these 250A breakers but after reading some reviews people had said that they can only pull 100A continuous and 250A peak. I ended up orderind different ones that have a continuous 300A.
      https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3D19TD..._.aROCbYHSS38R

      Also I like how the wires on this one will be covered.

      The ones I purchased, my 0awg lugs didn't even fit on them (had to grind them down lol) Says enough. Too bad I mounted it first and wasted 2 holes in my frame lol. I did use silicon around the rivets to seal it. I'm sure I can find use for them later lol.

      So the OEM ground is kinda far below the fuse box and towards the firewall in the engine bay. My fat hands and arms can't reach the bolt
      So I used one of the 3 ground points right next to the fuse box in the engine bay. I also plan on running a ground from the same point to engine block.
      I am not using the OEM battery ground atm. But I plan on crimping on a lug to it to connect it. Figure it can't hurt me.

      Does anyone know how many grounds are on the engine block? I know there is the ground strap, I'll probably add a 0awg wire to that as well.

      Tomorrow I should make more progress. I'll probably start on rounding over the edges on my amp board. I will probably have to stack some amps because I will have:
      1x 4 channel to run my front mids and tweets with active crossovers
      1x 4 channel that I will use for the rear doors (may bridge it for 150wrms to each rear door)
      1x monoblock amp
      1x sound processor
      1x extra battery

      Also have to run 2 pairs of speaker wire to each front door (one for woofer and one for tweeter). And run speaker wire for the rear doors.

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      Last edited by bmassy; 04-01-2019 at 07:57 PM.

    24. #57
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      I seriously don’t even understand half of what’s going on here...but I appreciate the commitment and attention to detail. It’s still kinda fun to watch, even tho I know there’s no way to substitute experiencing the final product firsthand.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Current: 2003 V70 T5 M56 // Mystic Silver/Charcoal // 162K miles // Koni FSD + Eibachs // Snabb intake + IPD silicone turbo hoses // Copper R Brembos // 18" Pegs // OEM bi-xenons // '05 side mirrors // 18/35 tint // jewel tails // black anodized S80 DIM // R steering wheel // '05 console w/ T5M spaceball // mesh grill with custom ironmark badge 2004 XC70 bone stock for now…
      Previous: 2001 V70 T5M (Nautic/Charcoal) // 1999 V70 NA M56 (Blue-Green Metallic/Charcoal) // 2004 V70R M66 (Titanium/Nordkap) // 1992 244 M47 (Silver/Navy…and the newest, nicest car I'll ever own. Sold on BaT. )

    25. #58
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      Quote Originally Posted by Sigg View Post
      I seriously don’t even understand half of what’s going on here...but I appreciate the commitment and attention to detail. It’s still kinda fun to watch, even tho I know there’s no way to substitute experiencing the final product firsthand.


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      Haha thank you! It's all for the love of sound really. But I got plans for performance and the badsweede kit. Stay tuned! Got some maintenance items that I need to check off my list before performance stuff though

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    26. #59
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      Personally, I'd trust a fuse over a circuit breaker, especially over the one that you linked that does not meet any kind of standard or testing. Fuses are smaller, safer, and simpler. Circuit Breakers are susceptible to heat, vibration, moisture, mechanical failure, and potentially nuisance tripping or worse yet not tripping at all. On a properly designed system there should never be a reason for a fuse to blow unless there's a fault.

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      Last edited by Antherzoll; 04-01-2019 at 09:47 PM.
      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    27. #60
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      Quote Originally Posted by Antherzoll View Post
      Personally, I'd trust a fuse over a circuit breaker, especially over the one that you linked that does not meet any kind of standard or testing. Fuses are smaller, safer, and simpler. Circuit Breakers are susceptible to heat, vibration, moisture, mechanical failure, and potentially nuisance tripping or worse yet not tripping at all. On a properly designed system there should never be a reason for a fuse to blow unless there's a fault.

      Sent from my ZTE B2017G using Tapatalk
      Yeah I'm still on debate of a breaker. I do have fuses already. I like convenience of breaking the connection easily if I'm doing work lol.

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    28. #61
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      Didn't get really anything done besides new battery terminals. Lil messy until I figure out where I want to mount my distribution blocks. Waiting for some SMD fuse blocks to come in the mail.

      I had to make up a new cable for that little distro block in the first picture because the OEM lug was to small. Used some 4awg ofc for that.
      Today my position light went out so I bought some replacements, figured I do both. What a PIA if you have big hands. I ended up removing the C pillar panels to get to them lol.

      In the process of making mounts for load resistor for my led headlight to get rid of the bulb out warning. I am using a 4 inch square Electrical block off plate for mounts lol. I have sanded them down and in the process of applying primer. They will be black in the end.
      One is being mounted to the OEM location of the airbox "mount" right below my air filter. The other is too complicated to write lol. I'll post pictures once I get them in.

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    29. #62
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      Mounted my load resistors, I used h11 extensions and unpinned the plugs and poked a hole the size of the wire to feed it through the headlamp cap. The resistors are mounted to steel and mounted to factory bolt locations.

      During the install one of the ends on the resistor broke so I had to resolder it back on, also during this I thought it be a good idea to pick up my solder iron by the tip side... Burned 3 fingers and part of my hand.

      Continued to work and finished up the sides of the trunk with Soundskins Pro. This is 2.5 rolls so far just in the trunk..

      Also ground engine block to chassy with some SHCA 0awg OFC. Now I just need to add a 0awg to my alternator positive and fuse it.

      Got some goodies in, 3x smd fuse holders (positive from alternator, right before rear battery and one for second battery), more 0awg lugs and heat shrink.

      My oem ground strap looks a lil rough so I will probably order a new one even though I don't really need it lol. Keeps it looking oem I guess.

      I need to get some aluminum sheets to make a bracket/mount for fuse holders in the engine bay, I think Lowes or home depot carries that.

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    30. #63
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      Got a little done today. Really crappy to be painting. Taking forever to dry.

      I got 16awg steel at Lowes, cut a piece I needed, bent it and used a hammer to get it to a 90° angle. This will be used to mount fusing. Waiting for the primer to dry so I can do another coat then paint it black.

      Drilled through the spare tire well and installed some rivets. I put some silicon around the holes before riveting just for precaution. I ended up using a wider piece of wood at the back of the trunk (see pic 4). Also mounted the other piece of wood that will be towards the front of the spare tire well (didn't take a picture of it for some reason), this piece of wood goes horizontally as well.
      I also spray painted the rivets and holes under the car to prevent rust and what not

      Also got my vida dice in that I ordered on Aliexpress from China. The item got good reviews so I take it, it should work. Need to get a laptop with windows 7 now

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    31. #64
      We really appreciate all the time and effort you put into documenting your process, especially with pictures showing the steps and your responsiveness to questions. Keep up the great work! This level of quality tech info is incredibly rare on the forums these days. It reminds me of my halcyon days on the VW GTI forums while people did most of their posting on laptops, before smartphones seriously dumbed-down the quality of posting everywhere. And I say this as I fingerpeck this jibberjabber from my iPhone whilst taking a dump, haha.
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    32. #65
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      We really appreciate all the time and effort you put into documenting your process, especially with pictures showing the steps and your responsiveness to questions. Keep up the great work! This level of quality tech info is incredibly rare on the forums these days. It reminds me of my halcyon days on the VW GTI forums while people did most of their posting on laptops, before smartphones seriously dumbed-down the quality of posting everywhere. And I say this as I fingerpeck this jibberjabber from my iPhone whilst taking a dump, haha.
      Thank you, I appreciate all those who take the time and go through this log. I like to take as many pictures as possible and document what I do so that I can help someone else

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    33. #66
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      Well done on all the hard work, and thanks for all the photos and details.
      Silver 2006 V70 D5 manual FWD, fixing slowly.
      Silver S60 D5 manual , need a petrol one. Good parts for the V70 D5.
      Willow Green 2007 P2 V70 D5 automatic.

    34. #67
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      Quote Originally Posted by bmassy View Post
      Also got my vida dice in that I ordered on Aliexpress from China. The item got good reviews so I take it, it should work. Need to get a laptop with windows 7 now
      Just go the Virtual Machine route, then you can use whatever laptop with whatever OS you want (within some reason of course). And easier to keep from installing something that breaks VIDA as well.
      2001 V70 Silver - 200k miles
      2006 XC70 Ocean Race - 96K miles
      (Past: '94 944 turbo, sold at ~220k miles)

    35. #68
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      Quote Originally Posted by madmattd View Post
      Just go the Virtual Machine route, then you can use whatever laptop with whatever OS you want (within some reason of course). And easier to keep from installing something that breaks VIDA as well.
      Huh never thought of that lol. That's a good idea. I will have to install it somewhere though?

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    36. #69
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      Quote Originally Posted by bmassy View Post
      Huh never thought of that lol. That's a good idea. I will have to install it somewhere though?

      Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
      Virtual Machines use a program running on the "host" os (whatever your computer comes with) and simulates a computer for a local image to use (VirtualBox and VMWare are some of the more common programs). The "guest" OS can generally be anything you want. The image file resides on the main computer same as any document/whatever (it's just several GBs in size!). There's a VIDA virtual machine image setup ready to go in the OBD forum on here. I haven't used that one myself as my DiCE came with a disc with a VM on it that I've just been using, but Roxanaschram seems to be providing support for it as needed. You just need a modern-ish laptop that has a little horsepower and several GB of RAM for it to run best. And a USB port for the DiCE of course.

      I used the VM image on both of my cars for a while with a laptop, then copied that image to my desktop so I can browse manuals/diagrams/etc at will (but it now has the VINs for both cars so I can get more variant-specific info), still using the laptop to work on the cars. The desktop's a bit inconvenient to take into the garage, but the bigger screen is nice for research
      2001 V70 Silver - 200k miles
      2006 XC70 Ocean Race - 96K miles
      (Past: '94 944 turbo, sold at ~220k miles)

    37. #70
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      Didn't do much today. Thought I had mdf to use for my speaker baffle/rings but I do not.. I ran speaker wire to the rear passenger door. Wasnt the easiest thing. I used a coat hanger to fish the wire through, also used some dish soap to help slide through. I forgot to take a picture but on my spare tire wood rack I cut for my amps, I round over the edges to make it look nicer. Also I think I'm going to stain it a grey color. I also need to buy the stain and more speaker wire. I ended up not using the cables I made from earlier in this build, I think they're to large for the door boots. I used fabric tesa tape to wrap the wire in to prevent it from vibrating on the metal inside the door.
      I'm waiting for the paint to on my fuse block mount to dry. Itll need one more coat. Also have no clue how I am going to be able to run another cable to the post on my alternator without removing a ton of stuff to get to it.. And I have a feeling my 0awg lugs are not going to fit on it..

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