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    1. #1
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      LFJ's C30 AWD Project

      Thanks to all the groundbreaking work, there is plenty of reference data for this. Also posted on C30Crew.

      I have a clean 95K S40 shell/AWD suspension/drivetrain in the works. An S40 M66 AWD coming from CA (now I wish I had saved mine, already had Quaife 14J & I sold it cheap). I'll look for the later Haldex controller.

      Not sure of timeframe, but I'll probably put aside the X1/9 - K24 Honda conversion & do this first.

      Areas that need specific details:

      Precise drivetrain height adjustment details (3/8" ? custom shim plates etc.,) to retain C30 front subframe

      rear shocks & springs (will Eibach springs work? Adjustable KYB's transfer over?)

      Exhaust mods to work around propshaft

      Alternative rear diff guts w/posi - other models transferable?
      Has anyone researched which later models come with a posi & have same form factor as P1?

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    3. #2
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      M66 AWD arrived today





      Quaife 14J arrived yesterday



      Aftermarket EMPI right side AWD axle I bought couple years ago


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    6. #4
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Beyond the (likely) need for a Haldex controller, another absolute issue is the lack of a functionally accurate fuel gauge.

      Investigating ways to provide the C30 DIM with an averaged signal from the two senders. VIDA describes the DIM as being the location where the two signals are interpreted.

      Extra wire from second sensor goes to F:25 at the CEM.



      Potentially a cicuit can be added that averages the two sensor outputs.



      To figure out resistor values, we need to know sensor I/O values. VIDA provides ZERO information on exactly what the values are (0v-5v, 5v-12v, 0v-Vbat? Who knows...) I will have to wait until I have the parts car on hand to juice up the senders & see what output values they give.


      Unless anyone on here has ever looked at that?
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 01-08-2019 at 05:38 PM.

    7. #5
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      You can keep your front subframe without shimming. Your stock C30 FWD downpipe fits. That's what I used on mine. My cat is very close to the driveshaft, but doesn't touch. I'll solve this by getting rid of the cat. I don't have fuel gauge issues because I converted everything, ECU, DIM, gauges, ecm (but I also did a auto to manual conversion and went with a 2005 donor in a 2008 c30).

    8. #6
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      You can keep your front subframe without shimming. Your stock C30 FWD downpipe fits. That's what I used on mine. My cat is very close to the driveshaft, but doesn't touch. I'll solve this by getting rid of the cat. I don't have fuel gauge issues because I converted everything, ECU, DIM, gauges, ecm (but I also did a auto to manual conversion and went with a 2005 donor in a 2008 c30).
      This didn't bring up any alignment issues with the PS rack or DS alignment? Curious why they bothered shimming theirs.

      VIDA describes the DIM as being where the divided signal (via the CEM) from the two senders is interpolated. I guess I could use the S40 DIM & swap the R design's faces over (maybe)...
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 01-27-2019 at 09:16 PM.

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      This didn't bring up any alignment issues with the PS rack or DS alignment? Curious why they bothered shimming theirs.

      VIDA describes the DIM as being where the divided signal (via the CEM) from the two senders is interpolated. I guess I could use the S40 DIM & swap the R design's faces over (maybe)...

      I don't see why this would cause PS rack issues, your c30 didn't have PS rack issues before and you're usng the same C30 one. A for DS, it fits perfectly in the tunnel. If anything, if I'd used the lower subframe from the V50, I think I would have had exhaust fitment issues because the DS would likely be a bit lower, so I could not use my C30 downpipe. But I put the V50 and C30 downpipes over each other and could not identify any difference with a lot of head scratching. So I used my c30 one cause it was in better shape.

      My cv shafts went in perfectly fine... everything bolted up, car moves fine. Like I said only issue is I could use a bit more space between my rear driveshaft and my cat. it's probably 5mm right now which will hit with bumps. Would have plenty of space with a slightly smaller profile cat.

    10. #8
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      There's an extra bend in the AWD downpipe that nudges it slightly further away from the drive shaft. It's subtle, but it's there. Ideally, a spacer between the downpipe and turbo flanges should bump it far enough over that it fixes this problem. Though you'll probably need to adjust some other angles in the exhaust or hangers to keep the tips even.

      The stock FWD DP probably fits because it's so small. There is not enough room for a 3" FWD DP on an AWD car without customization. You'll want to make sure you have sufficient clearance because the exhaust moves around.

    11. #9
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      I think the issue is covered in Michael's post - I'm not using factory exhaust, and the others I'm aware of are also K16 not K04 AWD conversions.

      There is a specific reason for the mount offset, maybe it's just not a issue with stock parts. Don't want to use the AWD subframe as then you mess with the C30 suspension geometry.

      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      I don't see why this would cause PS rack issues, your c30 didn't have PS rack issues before and you're usng the same C30 one. A for DS, it fits perfectly in the tunnel. If anything, if I'd used the lower subframe from the V50, I think I would have had exhaust fitment issues because the DS would likely be a bit lower, so I could not use my C30 downpipe. But I put the V50 and C30 downpipes over each other and could not identify any difference with a lot of head scratching. So I used my c30 one cause it was in better shape.

      My cv shafts went in perfectly fine... everything bolted up, car moves fine. Like I said only issue is I could use a bit more space between my rear driveshaft and my cat. it's probably 5mm right now which will hit with bumps. Would have plenty of space with a slightly smaller profile cat.
      I've seen pics of the aftermarket 3" pipes for AWD/FWD side by side, and as you pointed out, there is an obvious change in pipe direction down before the cat. I'm going to cut & weld my MotoTec DP to fit. You mentioned somewhere that the Elevate hotside FWD pipe will fit on AWD, just needs finagling to fit?

      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      There's an extra bend in the AWD downpipe that nudges it slightly further away from the drive shaft. It's subtle, but it's there. Ideally, a spacer between the downpipe and turbo flanges should bump it far enough over that it fixes this problem. Though you'll probably need to adjust some other angles in the exhaust or hangers to keep the tips even.

      The stock FWD DP probably fits because it's so small. There is not enough room for a 3" FWD DP on an AWD car without customization. You'll want to make sure you have sufficient clearance because the exhaust moves around.

    12. #10
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      Gotcha, my experience is definitely using all stock parts... until I make a custom 3" DP :P

    13. #11
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      When I lift the car again this weekend (getting a new rear diff pump), I'll take pics of the space I have upfront with the diff and the stock unshimmed c30 subframe, for your viewing pleasure

    14. #12
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      You mentioned somewhere that the Elevate hotside FWD pipe will fit on AWD, just needs finagling to fit?
      Yep! Just a spacer shim for one of the mounting brackets and don't feed the pipe fully into the turbo coupler. It's designed to be inserted about 1" into the coupler. Miner is only fed in about 0.5" but the hose clamp is still securely behind the flange, so no problems. Clears the transfer case and skid plate without any problems.






    15. #13
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      When I lift the car again this weekend (getting a new rear diff pump), I'll take pics of the space I have upfront with the diff and the stock unshimmed c30 subframe, for your viewing pleasure
      Thank you. That will be helpful.

    16. #14
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Yep! Just a spacer shim for one of the mounting brackets and don't feed the pipe fully into the turbo coupler. It's designed to be inserted about 1" into the coupler. Miner is only fed in about 0.5" but the hose clamp is still securely behind the flange, so no problems. Clears the transfer case and skid plate without any problems.
      Thank you, Michael. I'll save that pic for future reference.

    17. #15
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Problem with the fuel sender. The catalog listing is unclear. I have to assume I have the early unit, as the later one says S40 CH 305679-, and mine is 084465. Still shows two variants, 8629530 & 30792781; both of which seem to be valid PN's. I assume I have to use the AWD sender rather than my C30 (or a replacement) unit, or it won't have the signal from the left float. Not planning on buying one from Volvo, unless I have no option, just need to figure out which number I have to work with.

      EDIT: Mine required the ...2781 unit



      There are two tank #'s also. 30742527 & 30742528. I'd like to make sure I have whatever updated version sender I can make fit my tank.

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 07-07-2019 at 05:56 PM.

    18. #16
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Took the wiring out.





      Then. like a idiot I CUT the one section I shouldn't have - the right side feed through the floor to the Haldex & ABS. Don't know WTF I was thinking





      So now I'll have to carefully reattach the wiring to the 64/50 connector, the ONE thing I didn't want to mess with!

      64/50 connector - Terminals (sealed):
      Yz 090II or TS090 and TS187 series

      Yazaki 7114-4025/26/27 Male 2.3mm
      7116-4025/26/27 Female 2.3mm
      Sumitomo 8100_0463/4/5 Male 4.8mm
      8100-0661/0 /0468 Female 4.8mm




      Tracing those wires, they (Wh, Bn, Y) go to the black 29 pin connector (64/113, pins 19, 27, 20) in the pas footwell (not needed, for HID setup?),



      the F connector at the CEM (Gy-Rd, Bu-Rd pins F:16, F:14, Gn-Wh for fuel level F:25)



      the fuel module connector (64-51 Gy-R, Bu-Rd pins 2, 5).



      Ground (Y-B) joins the black ground wires on the inner sill, and Gn-R (vBat?) goes to the large CEM connector (pin 39 - Jamatron said his went to )



      I'll pull those wires from the connectors & insert into the appropriate terminals in my C30 harness - I'm assuming they don't exist (besides the pair going to 64/51)?

      Going to pull the AWD 2nd sender wire from 64/51 pin 4 -> F:25 and add it to the C30 harness.

      Checked the aftermarket right axle for fit in the trans/BG, and overall length



      Chopped a BIG hole in the S40 floor. Pan is different form factor than I recall the C30 being, but maybe it's just that added section that retains the forward cushion edge & acts as a crossmember in the C30. I'll have to remove my cushion to refresh my memory.



      The plan here is to mark reference points consistant across both models & make an accurate template for cutting the C30 pan, then cut a larger (than the hole) cover panel from this piece. put rivnuts in the pan, make a seal and use M6 hardware to retain the cover.



      The cover panel will be based on the hexagon, the hole in the C30 floor will be based on the approx 8" circle. Actual cap nut is approx 6.5"

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 03-18-2020 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Add onfo

    19. #17
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Stripped the cabin harness down yesterday morning. I like to have a good supply of pigtails



      Removing all the connectors on these isn't bad. There is a cap that you remove, then



      use a tool to pry the plastic clip off the connector, and withdraw




    20. #18
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Dropped the rear yesterday afternoon.

      I didn't realize several things are in the way, and have to be disconnected before you drop the rear too far.

      Six bolts hold the subframe, plus 4 bolts for the trailing arms, then...

      Leak Detection pump/valve



      LDP/ valve wiring tied to crossmember



      Still managed to chew up these wires (6/67 in wiring diagram, took forever to locate - called "Fuel Leakage Control")



      Then EVAP lines, Rear out, then exhaust.



      Propeller shaft. Have to replace the forward CV. This P shaft is # 30713165, repl # 30735305 also NLA. #31216175 CV (3", 24 spline) is listed for the available P shaft 31256269 (30759601) , but I don't know if it fits the earlier shaft, I'll have to look for markings. Should have HLJ75 apparently .



      Heat shield, splash guards, cover plates, crossmembers



      Gas tank coming out. Just 2 lines to disconnect (and the brackets securing filler neck to frame), and pull the fuel module harness through.





      Floor, with oversize hole I cut out. C30 will only be about 8" hole



      Stashed in the garage. Supposed to snow tonight.



      I broke the blasted neck off the fuel sender (smacked it parking the rear crossmember). I'm not using this one anyway, but still.

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 10-01-2019 at 07:17 AM.

    21. #19
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      I pulled the CV's this morning. Both F&R are binding, so I'll just replace them both

      Front has torn boot



      Grease is cooked, outer races have worn grooves (not shown)



      Ordered a pair of the eBay listed HLJ75's.

      Going over the wiring. I have the harness repaired & ready to go in. Will reuse the stock ABS harness.



      This is the wiring, based on actual component locations.



      Not sure why the bridge is on the Haldex side of the connector. I made sure to reconnect F14,16 to 64/50 3 & 4. Those pins are larger load carriers than the pins 5 & 6. Must be a reason they chose to do it that way.



      Have to see if I can figure out the part number for the Tyco terminals they used, I'm going to need some.


    22. #20
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      you'll have 2 sets of data lines in your wiring from the haldex. One that is spliced in at the fuel module connector and one that went to the cem. You can chop off the cem ones and splice the ones that went to your fuel sender in the ones on your c30 fuel sender. Send the rest of the haldex wires to the appropriate cem connectors and you're set. I had 1 wire spot that wasn't empty... probably because I had an automatic. I just cut that wire out and spliced mine in. I didn't see any adverse affects but just in case I spliced them together afterwards.

      You don't need to use any of the ABS wiring from the donor, just separate the pig tails and keep the c30 ones intact.

      I don't have any pinout diagrams to share because I just marked my wires with tape and numbers on my donor connectors, so I would just look at a wire, say it goes here and go pin it. Helps when the donor and project cars are side by side in the garage

    23. #21
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      If you damaged some terminals connectors, there's other connectors in the car that use the same ones. So you can pull them out and connect them to your wire that needs to be pinned in. I had to do that or a few wires, mainly because I was converting auto to manual at the same time.

    24. #22
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Thanks for the input

      I just pulled the circuit complete from the donor harness & repaired the wires I cut with shrink wrap low temp splices to make sure circuit resistance didn't alter. My diagram is what I actually have to add into the C30. I'm going to run the wires along the factory harness (PITA, since I have to pull the seats & carpets, but I'd rather do it right, once). Everything will just plug into the existing connectors on the C30. Are you saying the CAN wiring is already present to the grey fuel connector (64/51) & the grey A pillar connector (64/112)?, if so I can just eliminate that loop from my add in.

      I do have plenty of pigtails, but I still need some terminal ends for the fuel sender wire I need to add to the C30 fuel harness.

      Figured out the Volvo PN for the typical 22-24 AWG connector needed, its 8651342. I emailed Mouser to see if they can ID the series at least. Looking throught their catalog is like looking for a needle in a haystack.

      Did you remove & compare the fuel senders/tank unit by any chance? I'm asssuming I need to buy the AWD version to have the correct internal connections to the left float. I broke the feed nipple off the one I have - it had 95K anyway, so I really wouldn't want to use it, given the higher demands of the K16/Hilton tune.
      The problem is which version to buy.


      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      you'll have 2 sets of data lines in your wiring from the haldex. One that is spliced in at the fuel module connector and one that went to the cem. You can chop off the cem ones and splice the ones that went to your fuel sender in the ones on your c30 fuel sender. Send the rest of the haldex wires to the appropriate cem connectors and you're set. I had 1 wire spot that wasn't empty... probably because I had an automatic. I just cut that wire out and spliced mine in. I didn't see any adverse affects but just in case I spliced them together afterwards.

      You don't need to use any of the ABS wiring from the donor, just separate the pig tails and keep the c30 ones intact.

      I don't have any pinout diagrams to share because I just marked my wires with tape and numbers on my donor connectors, so I would just look at a wire, say it goes here and go pin it. Helps when the donor and project cars are side by side in the garage
      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      If you damaged some terminals connectors, there's other connectors in the car that use the same ones. So you can pull them out and connect them to your wire that needs to be pinned in. I had to do that or a few wires, mainly because I was converting auto to manual at the same time.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 02-21-2019 at 07:38 AM.

    25. #23
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      I actually broke the nipple off my awd pump too. The float sensors are the same between the fwd and awd units, they are just wired in series instead and those can be swapped over. The problem is the fuel casing on the AWD has a pickup tube formed into the bottom so it can pick up fuel from both sides of the tank. This is not available in the fwd unit. Now I pulled apart my fwd unit (you have to file off a crimp in one of the sliders) swapped over the top part with the nipple (and my pump while I was there because it was newer). It's not easy and clearly not meant to be swappable. Lots of ****ery with the hard-tubing that is clearly compression fitted. I used clamps afterwards. The first time I did it I didn't use clamps and it didn't hold. Also had to re-solder the wires on the top connector so that they match the awd pump's config.

      I haven't filled my tank yet to see how the gauge reacts, so all I can tell you is there's physical and electrical configurations that are different, but it is possible to reproduce them. I didn't change anything on the C30 side to "accommodate" the awd signal. I don't know if it's needed yet.

    26. #24
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Putzed around today. The prop shaft carriers are mounted on rubber bushings with a metal tophat sleeve, presumably to reduce vibration in the cabin. They are not sold separately, have to pay $70+ for the whole bracket. WTF is up with cars nowadays!

      Took a couple grommets (bottom, right) & bored them out to 19mm to match the original, and shaved them width-wise .



      Done. If it presents an issue DTR, I'll have to look further for alternate bushings.



      Going to put the stepper motor (for standalone Haldex controller) inside a gutted fuel module. This bracket is already fitted in the right well, for a module related to the headlamp levelling system on some models, same form factor.



      Removed the stock circuit board, cut down the stepper motor heat sink, bonded it to the housing heat sink



      board in place. I have to either remove the connectors & reverse them, or solder the wires directly to the board. Planning on adding another connector, I think I need 10 wires for the stepper I/O

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 02-21-2019 at 08:33 PM.

    27. #25
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      That's a decent plan. I took the AWD pump unit out this morning to look at it. I see what you mean about the way it's assembled. Filing the rod crimp makes more sense than trying to pull the rods out of the cap. I can see that the pump feed solder joint is iffy, so this pump is likely on the way out anyway.

      I'm hoping that the DIM will register the joint signal with the wire second level sensor wire added from the sender to the CEM. VIDA describes the DIM as where the signal is interpreted, not in the CEM. I do have the S40 DIM if need be, but I'd have to switch out the face plates for my R Design version.

      Did you inspect the fuel filter while it was apart? I can't believe that is not serviceable separately.

      EDIT - what year was your donor? I'm trying to figure out what the difference in AWD senders is - there is a chassis break at 305679 for the AWD sender/pump unit. Mine is the older version, since they don't supersede, there must be something that makes them different.

      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      I actually broke the nipple off my awd pump too. The float sensors are the same between the fwd and awd units, they are just wired in series instead and those can be swapped over. The problem is the fuel casing on the AWD has a pickup tube formed into the bottom so it can pick up fuel from both sides of the tank. This is not available in the fwd unit. Now I pulled apart my fwd unit (you have to file off a crimp in one of the sliders) swapped over the top part with the nipple (and my pump while I was there because it was newer). It's not easy and clearly not meant to be swappable. Lots of ****ery with the hard-tubing that is clearly compression fitted. I used clamps afterwards. The first time I did it I didn't use clamps and it didn't hold. Also had to re-solder the wires on the top connector so that they match the awd pump's config.

      I haven't filled my tank yet to see how the gauge reacts, so all I can tell you is there's physical and electrical configurations that are different, but it is possible to reproduce them. I didn't change anything on the C30 side to "accommodate" the awd signal. I don't know if it's needed yet.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 02-21-2019 at 09:05 PM.

    28. #26
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      My donor was a 2005. But I also swapped out the ecm/ecu/dim/gauges/steering lock, so my c30 thinks it's a v50 (on a diet) This means I also did a bit of special wiring for the remote control, and I use the older key. Had to modify my starting circuit wiring (1 wire)… and a few other things.

    29. #27
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      The dilemma I now have is I finally took my DEM out, and I don't have a stepper motor like anything pictured on GTIForum. Mine (Gen II) has a "clutch control valve" (2 terminal) and a pressure/temp sensor (4 terminal). I don't see how I can make use of this setup to control it









      VW wiring (Volvo, only 4 wires)






      - - - Updated - - -

      CV's also came, so I replaced those today.



      had to add a hardened steel washer. The aftermarket units have .016" end float. Don't want them sliding & hacking up the C clip




    30. #28
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Found this thread in the R forum.

      Sounds promising. I'd still prefer to make my own....

      Found someone else who looked into it - but never posted back ....
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 02-23-2019 at 09:39 PM.

    31. #29
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      Installed new rear hubs today.






      Took screenshots from VIDA, since one cannot screenshot or export as PDF from VIDA, at least on mine install.

      Haldex overview & CAN signal I/O description







      Not sure there is any point cutting a hole for the PS (main) sender, as that cannot be removed unless you also lift the DS sender to release the cross tube and level sender wiring. Looking at the floor, the PS unit would have to be cut right where the seat belt mount is located. It's also not a flat area. I dunno. Not sure I want to mess with this now.


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      realistically put a new pump now. how many times do you expect having to swap pumps? Probably never again

    33. #31
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      Thinking about solenoid controllers:

      Found a VW guy using a Haldex Gen II manual controller - this is the basic wiring he outlined:




      Which doesn't explain how he regulates the solenoid travel, he only mentioned using a 10W resistor in series with the power supply to the solenoid, for about .8amp current draw.

      Could I use something like this to control the valve? Anyone played with type of thing on here?

      H-Bridge DC motor driver PWM speed control







      Or perhaps this to work with Arduino? Another Haldex DIY guy said I'd need a current shield for PWM.



      Or repurpose a 3D printer x,y,z-axis stepper driver/arduino kit?

      Some of them (as above) provide sample code to work with. As a noobie, I would definitely need help there



      Last edited by lookforjoe; 02-27-2019 at 05:04 PM.

    34. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      realistically put a new pump now. how many times do you expect having to swap pumps? Probably never again
      Yes, I'm putting a new OEM unit. Just thinking DTR.

    35. #33
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      I believe at some point I told you that I kept my FWD front subframe for the swap. With my test drive trials to iron out noises/bugs, I have found that using the FWD subframe causes 2 issues. Rub on the steering rack heatshield and a bad angle on the rear tranny mount. Removing the heat shield would clear any rubbing, but the FWD tranny mount bracket does not have the recesses to clear the transfer case. So... I have swapped to the AWD subframe.

      I initially kept it to avoid more issues with the front of the car being jacked up, but because the struts/springs mount to the body and not the subframe (unlike the rear end), that was actually a non-issue all along.

      So, ignore my previous advice, use the AWD subframe, just in case you were considering keeping it based on my advice.

    36. #34
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      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      I believe at some point I told you that I kept my FWD front subframe for the swap. With my test drive trials to iron out noises/bugs, I have found that using the FWD subframe causes 2 issues. Rub on the steering rack heatshield and a bad angle on the rear tranny mount. Removing the heat shield would clear any rubbing, but the FWD tranny mount bracket does not have the recesses to clear the transfer case. So... I have swapped to the AWD subframe.

      I initially kept it to avoid more issues with the front of the car being jacked up, but because the struts/springs mount to the body and not the subframe (unlike the rear end), that was actually a non-issue all along.

      So, ignore my previous advice, use the AWD subframe, just in case you were considering keeping it based on my advice.
      That's why the others raised the motor. Using the AWD subframe changes the geometry, they said.

    37. #35
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      I believe at some point I told you that I kept my FWD front subframe for the swap. With my test drive trials to iron out noises/bugs, I have found that using the FWD subframe causes 2 issues. Rub on the steering rack heatshield and a bad angle on the rear tranny mount. Removing the heat shield would clear any rubbing, but the FWD tranny mount bracket does not have the recesses to clear the transfer case. So... I have swapped to the AWD subframe.

      I initially kept it to avoid more issues with the front of the car being jacked up, but because the struts/springs mount to the body and not the subframe (unlike the rear end), that was actually a non-issue all along.

      So, ignore my previous advice, use the AWD subframe, just in case you were considering keeping it based on my advice.
      I assume your only rubbing on the steering rack heat shield at full lock?
      Did you swap steering racks with your conversion or keep the C30 steering rack?

      You need to use the AWD bracket that attaches the torque mount to the transmission, not the FWD bracket. It's a slightly different shape and should alleviate the odd angle on it.

      I would have discouraged swapping the front subframe. Spacers under the upper engine mount and transmission mount should have given you the clearance you needed. The AWD front subframe sits higher. So you'll be monster trucking like the stock AWD S40 and V50 and have a higher center of gravity, so the car will not handle quite the same as the C30. If you lower the car back to stock C30 height or down to a reasonably lowered ride height, you're putting an even more extreme angle on the axles and will wear through CV boots very quickly.

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