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    1. #36
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      The FWD bracket can't be used, it has no reliefs to "fit" around the angle gear like the awd one does.

      As for cv axle angle, I don't think that's a true statement. The subframe doesn't affect the height of the engine or axles, axles come from the tranny and are mounted at the same height as before, since they are held at the height dictated by the upper engine mounts. The geometry of the suspension does change, but minimally. Should be fine once aligned.

      I kept my c30 steering rack, and it rubbed at all times, it had nothing to do with turning. When the rear angle gear coupler spun, it was grinding into the heat shield.


      I don't like the idea of raising the engine, it's going to make a whole bunch of other stuff not align well. The intake tubing, the IC piping, some wiring may be "tight" and then that adds more angle from the front of the drive shaft to the first carrier bearing.

      I haven't taken I back out yet, gotta finish with some exhaust stuff and went for new rear wheel bearings. We'll see how she goes soon enough.

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    3. #37
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      I don't know if it's the point where the axles come out of the transmission, or how the LCAs/knuckles bolt to the AWD subframe, but AWD front suspension includes spacers on top of the strut bearings to correct for the different axle angle. The AWD and FWD struts are both the same length, but using the struts without the spacers results in the axles no longer sitting parallel with the ground. Lifting the engine slightly helps correct for lowering and removal of those spacers, especially since most people do no prefer to retain the unattractive 3" gap between the tires and the fenders. Lifting the engine also helps with clearance for a performance downpipe, since most people performing an AWD swap are at least Stage 3.

      If I remember right, it was only about a 5mm lift, which barely has any affect on other components, hoses, intake/intercooler piping, or wiring harnesses in the car. A shot engine mount will drop the engine and allow it to rock more than 5mm and many people drive like that for tens of thousands of miles before addressing it.

      Altering the engine height isn't a new concept either. People have been doing it for decades to better adapt to lowered or lifted cars.

    4. #38
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      I don't think 5MM spacers will do anything significant against a 2" drop realistically. I'm not worried. I also don't see how raising the engine 5mm will get my rear torque mount inline. We were off by 3/4" here. It had a lot of pressure sitting down on it. I'll get my BC coilovers in, get my alignment and we'll see what happens

      And I don't have anything "stage 3", but I did put in a 3" manzo downpipe from a FWD. Had to use my stock exhaust flange as a spacer between the turbo and manzo to make clearance between the angle gear coupling and the flex pipe. Seems fine.

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    6. #39
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Everyone else doing the conversion has raised the motor 3/8" to get proper alignment of the AG/DS. That is my plan. No one mentioned any need to alter hose routing, etc., as a result of the lift.

      I didn't save the AWD subframe & don't want the altered geometry it would bring.

      As Michael pointed out, the primary goal for the AWD conversion has been to regain traction lost with higher HP output from K16, etc., that is certainly why I am doing it.

      Mine is on hold while I wait for parts. Getting new Haldex pump & some other odds & ends..

      X1/9 has modded C30 rockers, 960 front lip merged into the Dallara spoiler. Multitude of Volvo parts all over.



      Been working on my K24A3 install into the X1/9 in the meantime. Slight setback when I found crap in #4 cyl.



      Did get the '98 V70 AC compressor mount sorted out though.



      Chopped up & modded an 850 ancillary bracket for the forward end



      Made an adaptor to fit a P1 T/Stat housing to the block, main rad hose has to point down & forward

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 04-04-2019 at 08:37 PM.

    7. #40
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Always great work Hussein! I didn't realize you got the X1/9 painted, last time I saw it, it was still matte black. Looks great!

    8. #41
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Always great work Hussein! I didn't realize you got the X1/9 painted, last time I saw it, it was still matte black. Looks great!
      Thanks Michael. I did that last summer. Took me a full 3 months to strip, finish, prep prime & paint it. Volvo Passion Red

      I'm assuming I will have the C30 in AWD for Carlisle, the Honda swap X1/9 will probably come to Carlisle next year.

    9. #42
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      freekin awesome! love your project and your work.
      1997 Toyota Avalon
      2000 Mercedes ML320
      2005 XCR90
      2006 C70

    10. #43
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      Impressive...VERY IMPRESSIVE!
      '83 242 Burgundy w/B230FT, '06 V50 Barents T5 AWD, '10 S40 Ice White T5 AWD,
      '12 C30 Ice White T5 R Design w/Polestar, and '13 C30 Rebel LE #189/250
      ALL MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS

      Manual Volvos for Life

    11. #44
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Had a few hours this afternoon to work on the AWD subframe & Haldex.

      Removed pinion flange



      Removed Haldex pump and filter. Has 95k, so I'm replacing the pump.



      dismantle pump housing



      new pump going in, new orings & shaft seal



      housing cap & rotor/vane



      cap with new orings on the screws





      filter screen back on, new outer orings



      New Filter & cap



      Torque flange to 80ft/lb, bitch to counterhold



      Replaced the three diff bushings, donor was auto trans, which uses different composition bushings

      Torque bush - absolute PITA to extract







      pressing in the two rear bushings (plastic cage) - using an old Volvo 240 tool - for the large trailing arm bushings, didn't think I'd ever use this again






    12. #45
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Got some prep work done today.

      BG, Rear Diff & Trans PN's for future reference







      Changed the input shaft seal, and AG inner shaft seal



      Changed the AG oil



      Repaired a nick in the left rear axle boot



      then heat shrink



      reinstalled in diff/hub



      Removed/drilled out a broken heat shield retaining screw from the gas tank (very carefully) & epoxied a ss machine screw in it's place



      Installed the new main sender/fuel pump, and tidied up the tank ready for install



      modifed the left trans bracket following Jimmy's (Jamatron/C30Crew) approach - removed 1/4" off the top & reshaped to match as best possible

      using cut off piece to check contour





      File ridge in top lip



      additional 1/8" will be made up using the flanges cut from an old mount.

      Getting closer. Reinstalled the Haldex harness, EVAP bracket, shield & EVAP box



      Found anothe hiccup - the trans casing was damaged in whatever accident put the donor in the JY. There is a crack in the rearward torque mount position. I will have to grind & weld that





      Tomorrow I'm going to try & get the trans & AG installed.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 05-26-2019 at 06:47 AM.

    13. #46
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Changed my mind & removed all the rear suspension, filler neck and fuel cell and exhaust today - didn't want to start dismantling the front (which requires battery removal) until I'm done with the rear and the interior wiring.

      Took out the shocks,brakes and trailing arms first, then dropped the subframe. EVAP system has to be disconnected during the lowering process











      EVAP connections



      Some rust to be addressed on the frame rails (both sides) where the main subframe attachment sits



      Disconnecting feed & vent lines from front edge of tank, remove circlip retaining filler neck boot inside filler door (not shown)



      support tank, then remove the 3 strap bolts



      Disconnect electrical harness inside car, under rear seat



      Tank out





      Filler neck comparison, L= FWD, R=AWD



      Frame & floor area needs attention - many of the seams have corrosion on the edges.



      Cleaned & painted the AWD propshaft supports



      Test fit - rear



      Forward - DP misalignment obvious here



      DP will need dropping - needs to be in alignment with this



      Mount pin will need relocating





      I'll fabricate a new mid section from 3" SS, modding the FWD one I made is not worth the effort.

      Going to run out of space...

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 05-26-2019 at 09:33 PM.

    14. #47
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Took care of the rear floor pan caulk, seal & paint today. Hopefully tomorrow I can start putting the rear back together, weather permitting.









      Sealer on the seams, then caulked, followed by gloss coat



      Chip Protection (3M Rocker Schutz) before the top coat









      Last edited by lookforjoe; 05-27-2019 at 07:17 PM.

    15. #48
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Had time after work before the rain set in to get the fuel tank back in





      Minimal amount of fiddling later, 4 mount bolts in place, exhaust heat shield situated



      Fuel feed & vent lines reattached



      Cut & flatten rear shield where it will interfere with AWD subframe (that version just doesn't have that extended area)



      Fuel filler back in. Pouring with rain at this point, have to pack up







      Back inside, installed the Eibach lowering springs from the C30



      Laying out the exhaust. I'll be making a 3" version of the straighter-run AWD version




    16. #49
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Today I had a couple hours after work before the rains came again.

      Got the rear balanced on the jack



      Finagled it back & forth until it was centrally located



      Jacked up, trailing arm forward bolts in place. Used longer M12 bolts to locate the subframe whilst I reattached the EVAP lines & EVAP pump. THAT was a PITA.





      Rain started about here.





      FWD ABS sender harnesses won't work as is, the routing is all wrong (as shown). I may be able to switch L - R to get them pointed away from the moving parts



      I have the old AWD harnesses, but I'm hesistant to use them, being 8 years older than the car The elbow casing may be removable, in which case I may be able to switch that over & keep my harnesses.

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 05-30-2019 at 08:51 PM.

    17. #50
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      What year is your car? I can't recall how mine routed but I know I just kept my C30 ones as they were and clipped them at the stock spots in the trailing arms and they are just dandy. Weird.

    18. #51
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by robyb View Post
      What year is your car? I can't recall how mine routed but I know I just kept my C30 ones as they were and clipped them at the stock spots in the trailing arms and they are just dandy. Weird.
      2012. Using the stock ones as is, is possible, but it's routing the loop over the moving parts, not good practice even if technically clears. I'll add comparison pics of the AWD version routing when I get home.

    19. #52
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      2012. Using the stock ones as is, is possible, but it's routing the loop over the moving parts, not good practice even if technically clears. I'll add comparison pics of the AWD version routing when I get home.
      The AWD / FWD cables are differing lengths.



      I tried swapping the elbow covers, and the cable ends up too tight for my liking.



      So, I cleaned up the older harnesses and installed them. This is the AWD-specific routing




    20. #53
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      After that, I started on the wrapping up of the suspension and brake install. Found an issue when I torqued the subframe bolts to spec - the one that goes through the spring seat on the DS stripped



      I went to the machine shop, and borrowed a socket that would hold my 1/2"20 Tap, and a suitable bolt, and used a long 3/8" extension to get the tap up into the stripped M12x1.75 captive nut. That fortunately cleaned up the threads so that the American bolt threaded nicely and torqued to 90ft/lb with no feeling that it was about to give.

      After that, I raised the suspension to normal ride height and torqued the trailing arm and link arms to spec. Then I put the brakes, shocks & swaybar back in.





      Adjustable KYB's



      Installed new Energy Suspension 5340 1" bushings



      Exhaust inlet for muffler has to be cut & moved





      Wrapped up again for the night

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-18-2019 at 08:56 PM.

    21. #54
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Getting the front stripped for trans removal



      Battery & tray out for mount & cable access



      Stripped left side strut/Hub/Brakes to give more room for access



      Right side, just undid the balljoint to pull the hub away for axle removal.



      Transaxle mostly disconnected



      Downpipe access



      Volvo tool for left axle removal



      Pops retaining clip with no drama, prying, etc.



      Modified underside of Trans mount to fit (previously modified) reduced height mount bracket - to raise engine/trans 3/8"





      Transaxle out. Spec Stage III+ will be replaced with EU Focus RS setup. Can't stand the gear rattle anymore



      Forgot to use the spline lube when I did this couple years back



      Socket required for flywheel bolt removal CQ12M2



      Just need to clean up bay & engine block before I install the AWD transaxle



      Also console & door trim kit arrived - 2013 R Design version. Mine has the brushed aluminum with numerous little dents. I'll install this when I remove the interior for the wiring part of the AWD swap.

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-02-2019 at 06:53 AM.

    22. #55
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      Minor stuff today. Cleanup & paint on the inner fenders & frame rail where they don't apply top coat. Minor rust starting on a number of the spot welds, & I don't want that spreading.

      Left side



      Right side





      Drivers side inner



      Spacers for left side mount done





      Installed the clutch feed pipe (Air Vent) 30786751, after removing the shock load-limiter



      and the slave - T/O in the AWD trans



      Found the M66 install support bracket I made years back to keep the correct angle for mating with the block







      It is affixed to the jack 'cup'.



      Also welded the crack in the outer torque mount support area

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-02-2019 at 08:51 PM.

    23. #56
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Great work! I regretted not better documenting my process, but you've got all those DIY photos covered.

      I should get that axle puller tool for my future projects...

    24. #57
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Great work! I regretted not better documenting my process, but you've got all those DIY photos covered.

      I should get that axle puller tool for my future projects...

    25. #58
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Flywheel going in - new bolts, 33ft/lbs, then 65º



      Disc & PP installed. New bolts. Tighten in small increments, the self adjusting mechanism can cause the fingers to **** if uneven pressure is applied.



      Volvo flywheel locking tool - bought this back in the early '80's.



      Moved reservoir to make room for transaxle



      About an hour of fiddling later.... definitely would have been much simpler with the subframe out. The vertical support is completely in the way of aligning the transaxle.



      Trans bracket & lower bolts going in



      Top bolts going in



      Torque mount & bracket. (eDrive) Torque mount has to be flipped for best alignment



      Clutch hard line reinstalled. Will bleed it tomorrow, before the rest of the plumbing is reattached.



      Shifter cable bracket, cables and trans mount installed



      Spacers to take up gap created by raising mount

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-03-2019 at 08:57 PM.

    26. #59
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Bleed the clutch after work then put the AG in Royal PITA getting around the oil cooler hoses and installing the outer support bracket (not shown)

      3/8" engine mount spacers (PS ones added today) did the trick getting clearance off the PS rack / subframe





      Support bracket is tucked between AG and oil cooler / hoses



      Had to remove and trim the heat shield AG doesnt fit the K16 with the turbo blanket I have installed



      2nd attempt did the trick



      Right axle in place





      Hopefully get the DS and left axle/suspension back in after work tomorrow.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-18-2019 at 09:00 PM.

    27. #60
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Not much done today driveshaft is in











      L & R rear tank protection panels back in - had forgotten where these went



      Got the left axle and strut back together.

      Problem is, the AG output is locked will not turn at all. If I turn the front axles, the AG output does not move. That is a problem, since the AG is directly connected to the differential by way of the spline coupler. I will have to remove the AG again & check it. There was no evidence of damage in the oil I drained. If the pinion was stripped, it would turn easily.

    28. #61
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Took the DS & AG back out after work. AG operates as it should when detached from the transaxle. The bad news therefore is that I incorrectly assembled something in the transaxle when I put the LSD in, and have locked the diff as a result. I'll have to drop the transaxle tomorrow after work & take it apart again.

      With the AG out, I put the ring gear/main shaft in from a gutted AG, and tried to turn the diff. It will not turn.



      Should have it sorted out for reinstall Sat. I'm annoyed to say the least, I've done LSD's in several of these, can't believe I didn't confirm it back in Nov. when I installed it

      Before



      After




      Looking at my pics, I'm wondering if I forgot to set the locking pawl shown here, which would result in reverse being locked, I believe. There are no Volvo flow diagrams that show the gear selectors precise layout, since they don't offer any internal parts for sale.

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-06-2019 at 09:12 PM.

    29. #62
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Removed the subframe first this time, much less drama with getting the transaxle out, and only adds about 1/2 hour or so on each end



      I probably jinxed myself as everytime I look at this subframe I've thought about removing it to clean up the surface rust, but really didn't want to drop it for no good reason



      Trans coming back out



      Using my M66-specific jack support block



      anchoring point



      and out



      Split the transaxle casing, and low and behold: I never located the reverse selector pivot, so the diff was locked as a result when any gear was selected.



      Back in it's proper place for reassembly.



      Should have the whole thing back together tomorrow, with the exception of the exhaust work, and the interior wiring, so that should all be doable in the next week or so after work.

    30. #63
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Cleaned up the casing again to prep for sealant. Used Hondabond, since I have it for my K24 build





      Somehow I lost the magnet. Had to go to Home Depot & pick up a 1.5" magnet to replace it.



      Transaxle back in. Derusted the harness clamps & hose isolater while I had it apart again



      Cleaned , prepped and painted the subframe





      Subframe back in. Swaybar has to be secured before steering rack



      Resecure rear O2 harness to swayer posts



      Axles back in , Angle drive and support bracket back in. Suspension all back together.

      With that all together, I started on modding the 3" MotoTec downpipe.



      Cut a couple pieces out of a section of 3" mandrel bend, had to put a little bit of a dogleg to it, to get it as far away from the front CV as possible





      Welded it up. Hopefully it didn't move around too much in the welding process. I may need to make a cut in the rear section to get the V-Band aligned anyway, so hopefully it's all good.

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-09-2019 at 08:26 PM.

    31. #64
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Pouring rain today, so no work outside after work. So, I started on the layout for the rearward exhaust section.

      Marking out the basic angles using the AWD exhaust as template



      Cut those pieces, and a bunch of approx 22º sections to deal with some of the forward small doglegs, if the mandrel bends don't provide enough material.



      Weather should be clear tomorrow, so hopefully back under the car
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-10-2019 at 06:42 PM.

    32. #65
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Put the modded DP in to check fit. Lines up OK, but.... O2 sensor bung is way off now. I'll have to drill a hole higher up & add a bung clocked closer to 11



      Cut the support bracket off the stock DP to use here



      I'll cut off this V-Band (which is not aligned as is), and add a new flange an few inches forward to give better clearance off the driveshaft mount bracket



      Tacked the rear sections together, except the forward most section that will interface with a 4' straight run off the cat. I need to leave that until it's all hung to check the best angle



      Only had to re-cut a couple angles



      Good clearance off the Haldex unit & subframe



      Mount pin cut from AWD exhaust, will also be welded later



      Forward piece that will be tacked later


    33. #66
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Fun after work today: spent about 5 hours futzing with the exhaust layout. Reinstalled the DP with a new flange and revised O2 bung tacked in place, approx 2" set forward of previous flange. The issue that brought up is that now the wide part of the cat is closer to the top bolt securing the DS carrier bearing to the support bracket, and the lower forward support bracket/cross brace rubbed against the V band clamp

      After much back & forth adjusting the Vband flange and the offset of the DP hanger support pins ( to raise/lower the DP and therfore the cat) I finlay got it to where is sits nicely, and doesn't rub when jostled around as it will under acceleration. No pics of that part.

      With that aligned & laid out the mid section that will go back close to the Haldex. I was hoping to use the straight 4' section, but no way to get that to align with both DS support brackets, the cat and the Haldex. So, I had to cut it & add doglegs at each end to push it down and to the right up front, and then back up & to the left in back. That took a fair amount of time. This is not fun work in the driveway.





      It will have Vbands at each end to make it easier to align & no more gasket flange to deal with.



      I am moving the rear O2 bung from the pipe section (where Mototec places it) to the cat body. That way, I can rotate it to get best alignment again without having to worry about the gasket flange causing an alignment issue.

      I tack welded everything except the Vbands, since those can be angled several degrees relative to the piping, I'll have to reassemble the exhaust, clamp the flanges & tack them insitu, then remove & bead weld.

      After that, I have to deal with the inlet to the C30 muffler, which is offset differently than the AWD monster muffler, and will require a fair amount of work. I already had it in & out several times today to get the rear over-subframe pipe section figured out, it also weighs a heafty amount. Not really looking forward to that part, but it is a puzzle to be solved, so that's OK.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-12-2019 at 10:51 PM.

    34. #67
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Got the various sections welded today, along with the O2 bungs on the DP & Cat. Took several hours, don't know where the time goes, but it does.





      So, tomorrow I need to reinstall these, fit the Vbands, align it all & tack the Vband flanges in place, add the hanger pegs, then take it back out & weld it up. Still have to cut & figure out the muffler connection & the dump valve.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-13-2019 at 09:35 PM.

    35. #68
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Little bit done today - DP installed for good. Mid & rear sections aligned & Vband flanges welded.





      Tomorrow I'll get those installed & then start on the rear muffler connection. Hopefully I'll have the exhaust all laid out before the end of the day. I'm getting low on Argon, so I may run out before I'm done - they aren't open on the weekend

    36. #69
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      WOW is this some Very Good Work ,it's Super Nice taking the Time to do Pictures and Details ~
      Hats Off !
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

    37. #70
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by EngTech View Post
      WOW is this some Very Good Work ,it's Super Nice taking the Time to do Pictures and Details ~
      Hats Off !
      Thank you.

      Today I welded the last Vband flange then reinstalled the exhaust, getting everything aligned so that there is no rubbing or clearance issues. Had to play with it awhile, and tweak some of the hangers.





      Had to add 1.25" spacers (lower washer in stack, upper is the stock mount isolater) to drop the forward driveshaft support, wasn't happy with the clearance for the Vband clamp on the Cat.











      After that, I started looking at how to address the rear muffler connection. It is obvious there is an alignment concern. The incoming pipe cannot be repositioned or it will interfere with the subframe.





      Started with some leftover cuttings



      Back & forth with several iterations, this is what I ended up with - minor further tweaking of the stock 2.5" pipe section will finish it. Ran out of Argon right about here.



      So, I played with the (aftermarket) Intercooler feed pipe & hoses, which I had to adjust the fit due to the Angle Drive.

      Pulled the tube back out the hose connector, to clear the underside of the angle drive







      Put the belly pan on to check clearances - there is a gap, just doesn't show it well






      After that, I changed the oil & filter, and the spark plugs (FR7N133) while it's all easy to get at.



      Started putting the nose panels & fender liners back together after that.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-16-2019 at 07:32 AM.

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