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    1. #71
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Bosch 17332 O2 sensor arrived this evening, so I got that installed & put the battery tray, battery, intake piping, airbox & vacuum pump back in place.

      After that, worked on the final piece of the exhaust & the last VBand I have to weld - although this one did come out better than all the others



      Fit looks good all around, access to the vBand is also good.









      All that's left is to weld that section to the rear muffler, then cut out a 3" circle for the dump valve



      Just have to figure out what angle to place it at & then brace the pipe to the muffler body - this thing is not lightweight



      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-17-2019 at 10:21 PM.

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    3. #72
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Pouring rain today. I worked on the wiring for the fuel gauge.

      Modified the "Y" harness adaptor that came on the AWD S40, to feed the sender signals, 5V & gnd into an Arduino. No_step on C30Crew Forum wrote some code for me that will average the two inputs & output to a PWM signal, that will connect to the stock C30 gauge feed.









      After that, the rain lessened for a bit, so I went out & removed the rear muffler after marking the intermediate pipe section as best I could for welding. I cut out the hole for the WG VBand flange, so tomorrow hopefully I'll get that all welded up.

    4. #73
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      If that solves the fuel level reading issue, I'll gladly pay for it.

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    6. #74
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      If that solves the fuel level reading issue, I'll gladly pay for it.
      Hey Michael

      I hope it does

      If it all goes as planned, then I can look into making more. I'll LYK.

    7. #75
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Got all the wiring in today, including the fuel level kit.

      Started & ran it on the jacks, made quite a racket since there is no muffler attached yet & the brakes squeak like crazy with 3 weeks surface rust.

      No way to know yet if the AWD is functional, but I did find that the circuit I used for the Haldex is not good - (C:41) - it's live all the time. I only found out because I was under the back of the car test fitting the muffler adaptor & could hear the Haldex pump running, which meant it was running for a good 4 hours with the car off. Hope that's OK. I unplugged the pump until I can figure out what leg to use that has switched power. C:35 & C:38 are open, no idea whether they are constant or switched.

      Pin C:41 is where I added the Haldex feed



      Green/Red wire, right of center, front row



      Fuel gauge works, so the circuit is kosher, but the reading is off. Recoding I presume.



      I made a bridge for just the main sender signal & the 5v supply and bypassed the Arduino. Gauge reads pretty much what I added to the tank this evening



      Arduino location:



      Interior out, wiring being run to match AWD harness layout.



      Routing harness along existing. I'm anal enough to route it neatly along original path , but not so much as too open the existing harness & add the AWD wiring for a real factory look







      wires added to 64/51 connector by fuel module (DS under back seat)



      Harness spliced into F:16, F:14. My CEM has different terminals /connectors than the '05, so no way to use the harness as is.



      And 64/112 connector



      DEM harness going through floor, with existing ABS added into it



      Connectors under pas side forward wheel arch





      Carpet back in



      Added the new console trim kit while I had it out



      Still have to do the door handles.

      After that, I spent way to many fing hours welding this. It really kicked my butt. Had to make little pie cuts to fill voids on either side & had endless trouble with maintaining a puddle and/or issues with helmet (either too dark, too much flare, etc.) . Flange distorted from the heat. I couldn't leave the band clamp on & still get under the lip to weld it at either end. Heated the crap out of it with Oxo-Acetylene & beat the V band clamp over the flanges. Tightened it down & then heated it cherry red from the inside, then beat on it some more. Seems to be flat again now.





      Hopefully tomorrow I get the power supply sorted & the rear muffler welded, or I won't be driving to Ithaca in it on Friday.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-19-2019 at 11:33 PM.

    8. #76
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Thanks guys. If the Arduino works out, then sure, I could figure a way to make them for purchase Credit for the programming all goes to no_step, so he would get royalties on that

      Moved the power feed to C:38, that's all good now



      Some horrible TIG welds here. This junction beat the crap out of me. Took forever, and the dump valve flange got badly warped so I had to spend time heating & massaging it back into shape, took way to many hours all told. It's done though, and doesn't leak. Don't have time to actually hook it up before we leave for Ithaca tomorrow afternoon. As it is, I have to jack the front back up, loosen the PS rack, and reset it where it passes into the cabin. I didn't realize it, but I cocked it & the shaft is rubbing on the bulkhead. I drove about 5 miles after getting it all back together around 10, hopefully didn't do any damage to the PS, it did screech.





      Closer to the frame than intended, but clearance is clearance.


    9. #77
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Figured out the problem with the steering rack after a bit.

      This was the problem - pinion pushed up into the bulkhead.



      Back where it should be:



      I tried loosening the subframe and the rack & repositioning both without success. I decided to remove the torque mount to give myself more room to access the DS rack mount bolt, and that's when I found the problem:





      I had swapped out the bolt for the longer one, because it has the guide pin. The problem was that it was pushing the Rack (rubber) mounting out of alignment.

      With that resolved, I added the final piece





      Dove to Ithaca this afternoon. There are a issues to address:

      PS tailpipe hits the bumper opening over hard bumps
      Vibration under front under hard acceleration - i'm assuming that the engine torquing is pushing the air intake pipe into the metal skid plate, there is so little clearance. I can remove it & confirm whether the vibration leaves when I get home.
      Needs alignment. The steering wheel is crooked, and I'm sure it's all out of spec since I had the entire F&R suspensions apart.

      Fuel guage is still inaccurate, so further manipulation of the coding is required.

    10. #78
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Doing some research on the connectors, as others are asking if I can make more of these. It's like searching for a needle in a haystack. Finally came up with a short list of 14 pole grey connectors that allow for two size terminals (power/gnd + data), and that narrowed down to Molex 30700 H-DAC 64™ series connectors - the female specifically is 30700-1147, based on comparison of datasheet & actual part in my hand. I've emailed Mouser to get the 4 male/female terminal part numbers, as those are what I need more than anything else. The Male housing that mates with the -1147 doesn't seem to exist in any retail form. Molex doesn't list it except as PCB mount, no free-hanging variety
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-23-2019 at 07:12 AM.

    11. #79
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Got home from Ithaca this afternoon. 500 or so miles round trip



      It was early enough that I wanted to check out the rear knocks - it wasn't the exhaust - the whole rear is too low - the tire OD is level with the wheel arch



      When I jacked it up & inspected all possible contact areas I found this:

      The aftermarket swaybar was smacking the trailing arm due to the suspension drop.



      I pulled out front storage the original C30 coils (left) AWD coils (center) and Eibach coils (right)



      3 coil diameters

      C30 .455"


      AWD .485"


      Eibach .427"


      I removed the Eibach's & put the C30 coils back





      Not gonna work, though - has "Monster Truck" wheel clearance with those



      So, I took the spare upper seats I had & put them on the bottom of the Eibachs (not these)



      With that extra height, I got my 1 finger gap back between the tire & wheel arch. Much better



      I also realigned the rear muffler - by bending the (rubber) mount ears downward to increase clearance for the tips relative to the lower valance.

      In addition, I found one of my front vibrations - I hadn't fully tightened (or just not enough for them not to work loose) the front DS bearing mount.



      I still have to remove the skid plate & see if the other general vibration under accel goes away. That will tell me if I need to rework the charge air pipe under the motor.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-23-2019 at 09:15 PM.

    12. #80
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      No sure where to go with this.

      EDIT - looked online, the 5V connection is output - I shouldn't have used that. Sender feed V should go to IOref (I believe)

      This is with the .5v factory sender feed (found that out today) hooked up to the 5V Arduino input. The sender input and output voltages are all around or under 1V. All values are with about 3 gallons in tank

      AWD1 (A0 main sender)



      AWD2 (A1 secondary sender)



      Output (PWM3)



      Input (was .551v not sure why it dropped when I took the pic))



      After this I found that the ground line wasn't actually connected - it was a dummy wire in the bridge connector.

      After I added the ground, I check voltages at the sensor wires. The odd thing is that the voltage is higher when checked to chassis ground vs. the ground wire that also grounds the fuel module, etc.





      At the time I thought it was just becuase I didn't have 5V to the Arduino, so I added a 5V regulator. That didn't help. with 5V supplied, the level input terminals on the arduino also read approx 5V, and the guage was pegged at zero. I unplugged it quickly as I don't know if that voltage is detrimental to the level senders. I have zero desire to drop the tank and pay $$$ two new sender assemblies.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-25-2019 at 09:14 AM.

    13. #81
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      The other thing I looked at was causes of the vibration felt up front under spirited acceleration.

      I wondering if the engine is too high, as the CVjoint is not centered in the pinion flange



      clearance for pinion from rack shield



      No sign of charge pipe contact with skid plate





      Torque mount is also tipped downward



      Again, no evidence of contact that would transfer vibration



      No sign of exhaust contact with crossmember



      On the plus side, everything is stll nice and dry afer the 500 mile drive





      Rear suspension all good now, no knocks or vibrations with the increased spacer height



      The only thing that makes sense to me, is either the pinion / DS angle is off due to engine height, or the front CV (aftermarket) is subpar and introducing the vibration under load.

    14. #82

    15. #83
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      My guess would be that front passenger side axle.
      The non-Volvo one?

      Yeah, that is a possibility, however it really feels like it's more central, next to my right foot.

      I'm considering buying a Volvo axle though, others have complained about vibrations with aftermarket axles. Problem is returning a core - I only have the auto axle to send back.

      Did you ever take any pics of the pinion offset from the rack on your AWD? I have no frame of reference for appropriate height. Just trying to determine if the front CV should be more centered in it's "cup" or if it's really a non issue there.

      EDIT: FCP had the OEM boxed M66 AWD right axle 36000556 discounted, so I figured I better just get one while it's available. They will take the Volvo AWD auto core, so I'll get the $100 back for that.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-25-2019 at 09:56 AM.

    16. #84
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      I forgot to mention in all this that the AWD is definitely functional, it's easy to tell as I have that nice push from the rear that I used to have with my wagon on high speed long sweeping curves and exit/entrance ramps. It also poured with rain on the way to work, and the Palisades is notorious for partial lane flooding - with FWD the car will track sideways & pop the ! traction warning with the left wheel in water. I had none of that today

    17. #85
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      Did you ever take any pics of the pinion offset from the rack on your AWD? I have no frame of reference for appropriate height. Just trying to determine if the front CV should be more centered in it's "cup" or if it's really a non issue there.
      I didn't take many pictures of my swap, it was more of a rush job trying to get it done for CTD. If I remember right, mine doesn't look much different from yours. It's possible that something else is causing the vibration, but ruling out axles first is probably for the best.

    18. #86
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Played with the arduino after work. Found that I had miswired the output , so I moved that to pin6 from pin 3 , and put the other wiring back to my original layout. With that, level dropped from pegged full to about 7/8, which would be close as I filled the tank yesterday and drove about 35 miles since. I get around 22 in local mixed driving.

      Voltage measured at the arduino output terminal was 1v. Completely full should be .6v.

      See how it goes over the next 200 miles.

    19. #87
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      I didn't take many pictures of my swap, it was more of a rush job trying to get it done for CTD. If I remember right, mine doesn't look much different from yours. It's possible that something else is causing the vibration, but ruling out axles first is probably for the best.
      Hey Michael - did you document the spacer depth you made? I used 3/8" precisely, based on the posts by Travis. I'm thinking I should reduce the lift. I guess part of the issue is whether the AG lifts or drops under load. If it drops, it would bring the CV into better alignment, if it lifts, it will definitely create an alignemnt issue for the front CV. I don't recall & have no one to help load the motor while I look.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-26-2019 at 09:23 PM.

    20. #88
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      Hey Michael - did you document the spacer depth you made? I used 3/8" precisely, based on the posts by Travis. I'm thinking I should reduce the lift. I guess part of the issue is whether the AG lifts or drops under load. If it drops, it would bring the CV into better alignment, if it lifts, it will definitely create an alignemnt issue for the front CV. I don't recall & have no one to help load the motor while I look.
      3/8" exactly on mine.

      I swapped in the Damond Speed racing torque mount (it's basically solid) when I did my swap, so there is VERY little engine movement. But the engine wants to rotate backwards under load, so that should mean the angle gear wants to drop slightly. I tried to leave as much clearance as I could, for the event that an engine mount fails and I have to drive a car a significant distance to get it home.

    21. #89
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Thanks Michael- I’ll leave the mounts alone then. If the new right axle doesn’t resolve it I’ll have to look at OEM front CV
      No one lists the actual NTN HLJ75 anywhere I can find, it’s either KO (which I already have) or $300+ for Volvo box

    22. #90
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Volvo 36000556 axle came last night, so I got that in this afternoon. Seems to have resolved the vibration I experienced under load. I'll know fro sure on the way to work in the morning.



      Finished up the aluminum trim install on the doors



      Stripped the old plasti-dip off the grille frame, disassembled the grille & refinished the mesh this time


    23. #91
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Main vibration is definitely gone with the Volvo axle in place. There was still a small vibration. I found a mark on the front carrier bearing support where the VBand was contacting under load. So, I increased the spacing for the support bracket to 3/8", that should do it.



      While I was under there I retapped the Whiteline end caps for 1/4x24 grease fittings, I haven't greased them since the day I installed them. Squeezed marine lube into them until it emerged on the front side





      After that, I ran the tubing for the WG feed. I used 10mm as a sleeve, & ran 6mm tubing within to provide the reference pressure signal



      Used DEI heat shield for the section that is relatively close to the exhaust





      tubing is routed in the existing brake & fuel line channel up to the engine







      Tomorrow I have have hook it up to the plenum.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-29-2019 at 07:07 AM.

    24. #92
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Routed the pressure line along with my boost gauge feed line, inside a DEI heat sheath

      Then I removed the plenum in order to drill the port.



      Drilled two 21/64 holes & tapped for 1/8NPT. I figured I'd add an extra port, in case I ever need it. I had added the one below the stock port some years back, should have just added extras back then.



      Back on the car. Painted it black while I had it off the car.






    25. #93
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Still trying to figure out the fuel gauge.

      Using test code that feeds a voltage to the gauge (with stock input circuit from senders disabled) I was able to make the guage sweep, but only up to 7/8 tank.

      supplying single values at a time, gave some indication of what the gauge is looking for. The overall range (in theory) is 0-255 - in practice, a value of 165 drops the gauge below E



      and 0 puts the gauge at 7/8 tank



      This is perplexing as the Volvo pocket data booklet gave these values for E - F range:

      AWD Sender 1 E=3.6V, 10L=2.3V, 27L =0.6V
      AWD Sender 2 E=3.6V 10L=2.5V, 30L=0.6V

      FWD Sender E=3.6V, 10L=3.1 30L=2V, Full=0.6V

    26. #94
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Added ground for Arduino, no change. Added sockets so I could switch around resistors. 10K made no difference to gauge reading, neither did 1K.

      Using gauge test unit (5v supply) / code
      10K resistor added - Voltage between output & ground



      Voltage between 5V & output



      Gauge reading



      Voltage of Arduino wired with factory inputs, 10K resistor between output & ground



      Voltage at output



      Voltage between output & ground



      Gauge reading



      Voltage at output with bridge connectors, factory circuit (reading main level sender only)



      Gauge reading


    27. #95
      Member boostednbagged's Avatar
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      you make any progress on controlling the haldex with the arduino? I am currently trying to get something to work. maybe we can share ideas lol

    28. #96
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by boostednbagged View Post
      you make any progress on controlling the haldex with the arduino? I am currently trying to get something to work. maybe we can share ideas lol
      I'm sorry to say I haven't bothered, since mine works with the stock (Gen3) controller. I may get back to it, but it won't be for a year or so, I'm working on my Honda K24a3 drivetrain swap into my X1/9 now



      removing stock drivetrain now


    29. #97
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Car has been running great. Looking forward to a wet fall & nasty winter to take advantage of the AWD.

      Fuel gauge mod is still under development, it will be resolved.

      Only issue I have had was the Leak Detection Pump failed - the rear has to be dropped about 2" to get access to it. Should have just bought a new one when the rear was installed, but hey, you never know.

      Besides that, the rear exhaust/propshaft bracket got mangled when I drove over a large chunk of deer shoulder or hip a few days ago. Thankfully, that is still available & is not expensive.

      Engine bay is finally ready to accept the K24 drivetrain



      Repurposed the fuel lines & pod from my old V70 wagon



      Have to do some wiring next....

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 10-18-2019 at 11:11 AM.

    30. #98
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Ordered a QDF11J rear diff & a used carrier off eBay. Not happy with the AWD performance in snow & ice. Rear pushes sideways with the open diff. Not as good as the old AWD with factory posi, for sure.

    31. #99
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Posi is here, waiting for spare rear diff


    32. #100
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Ring gear is now transferred & welded to the new rear LSD. $250 later it's done. Now I have to install the new bearings (32008X/Q) and check the backlash.







      He said it was a royal pita to essentially machine the old diff out of the ring gear, the welds were deep




    33. #101
      Amazing work! Makes me wish I'd been crazy enough to try and do this (not within budget, total pipe dream) and really miss my dad's X1/9 I learned to drive stick on years ago.
      Last edited by silent-circuit; 01-04-2020 at 01:43 AM.
      06 S40 T5 AWD : DO88 intercooler : 3" EST downpipe : Eibach springs (1" drop) : Magnaflow cat-back exhaust : Hilton stage 2.5 tune

    34. #102
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      Hey Lookforjoe, You have helped me out in the not too distant past with front axle shaft getting it out of the transmission on the P1. Now I am trying to get a rear axle shaft out of differential on my V50 and cannot figure it out at all. I looked thru VIDA (bootleg version) and it does not show anything at all for getting this CV joint out of the diff. I have looked on here and up and down the web to no avail. I see you have pulled a rear half shaft in this build here and can you tell me how to get this thing out? Danke.

      I have enjoyed this thread BTW. My son wants to do the same thing to his C30.

    35. #103
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      I found a Volvo tool (999-7160) to get the rear half shaft out. I have it on order.

    36. #104
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by J5T View Post
      I found a Volvo tool (999-7160) to get the rear half shaft out. I have it on order.
      Good to know - I used a hammer & a drift, which was a PITA.

      Since i have to drop the entire rear again to install the posi, I may also order the tool to do it right.

    37. #105
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      Good to know - I used a hammer & a drift, which was a PITA.

      Since i have to drop the entire rear again to install the posi, I may also order the tool to do it right.
      I tried 12 ways from Sunday to get this half shaft out while in the vehicle. not much room and the way the half shaft is design cannot get much to wedge in there to pop it out. I will have to dismantle the S40 so this tool with get more than the money worth of use. Since I was at Volvo dealer I just ordered it on the spot. Was told it would be about U$54.

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