SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

ChitownV: my front end rebuild/upgrade using OEM & aftermarket parts

49K views 143 replies 31 participants last post by  ChitownV 
#1 · (Edited)
(Feb 2023) This thread started to show an honest journey of trying different branded parts to improve the XC90 suspension. It has been updated to reflect the feedback of SwedeSpeed members and you can read their experiences in the rest of this thread. Some Volvo "blue box" parts do not last. Some parts marketed as "HD" don't last. Some quality brands don't make quality parts. Each individual suspension part is very brand specific for durability and there's a recommended list of parts at the end of this post.
Let me know if this info is helpful.
Enjoy!

:) Here are links to reviews from other SwedeSpeed members about the handling of my XC90 using parts listed in this thread,

--- Start reading the journey, what parts can pop or creak, and what works --->
I wanted to share my personal experience and set-up with using OEM and aftermarket parts to rebuild or upgrade the front end of the XC90. These are my personal opinions and hope you can benefit from real-world experience, rather than hearsay. After driving BMWs for 20 years I wanted more from the handling. The XC90 finally went from boring to sporty.
Edit 2-28-2022: Volvo, unfortunately, didn't win awards for its handling and performance. Almost every single part mentioned here are replacement parts for your worn suspension that can help improve handling. You can save money too.

If I didn't put it in the pic or listed below, the parts replaced are original Volvo. For my 3.2 engine mounts, I used all Hutchinson from FCP. I noticed on some of them, they looked exactly the same as the Volvo part, but the Volvo logo was ground off.

⭐ Don't forget to read the parts updates and table summarizing which specific parts to use below! ⭐



Control Arm Bushings
The main thing to talk about are the control arm bushings. I had replacement Meyle control arms, but when a winter sale for poly forward control arm bushings plus an additional sale on top of it came up, I jumped at the opportunity. I used original Volvo for the rearward bushings. My assessment, I love the poly control arm bushings because they remove the bushing cutouts that flex and since they pivot in the bushing rather than twist the bushing when the control arm moves up and down, the geometry is more precise without the harshness. Yeah, each time the control arm moves up or down, the front rubber bushing twists. The poly bushings were a little firm at first and it took about two weeks for the bushings to break-in (it was frigid January winter). Now they are wonderful. :)

For those looking to press bushings out of the old control arms, I can assume most people mainly fall between either you want the factory ride or sportier. If you are going to spend a typical $20-40 per bushing to be pressed out and replaced, I would go straight for the original Volvo or the Polyurethane ones. (❗we are starting to see early failures in OE Volvo rubber bushings) For bushings that carry so much load in the suspension, it's worth skipping both Meyle and Lemforder, especially if you're already going to pay for them to be pressed. Why save a few dollars when they will be on for 70k-100k miles and are essential to the suspension.
(Added links to first-hand reviews)
Brake Rotors
The next thing I might change are the Zimmerman brake rotors. I think they have more ferrous (iron) material because they can form light rust in humid or wet weather. This means you feel grinding first thing in the morning as the pads clean off the rotors. I might try the Ate ones next time. The Bosch rear rotors don't have the same problem and I like them.

Subframe Bushing Polyurethane Inserts
The last part I want to share are the subframe poly inserts. This is well documented, but if you live in an area that uses salt, I would skip the forward two inserts. The forward bolt threads are exposed to the outside elements and rust. Water and salt sit in the threaded part like a pocket, making it worse. Thus, I and others, have had these forward bolts break when trying to remove them. So, my suggestion is you can use the rearward two poly bushing inserts to help tighten things up and those rear two get most of the turning load.

The rest of the parts are performing really well and have been documented in other threads. They are of good quality, either equal or better than Volvo in my opinion. I love this set-up and with the right alignment, it works very well. It is civilized in normal driving, but really sporty on the turns.

Alignment Specs
The last bit that does not require parts is the alignment. I personally believe the factory rear settings are too toe'd in and this gives that front corner pushing feeling on circular highway off-ramps. Especially with the front end sport build, I noticed the rear was pushing straight/forward when I turned, so the trick is to reduce the factory (around) +0.17 of toe in on each side or total toe of +0.34. You can instruct the alignment shop to make it zero, or if you want a little straight line safety for the highway/towing/carrying 7 passengers/wifey/teenager, reduce it to +0.10 each side or a total toe of +0.20 (still within spec range and my recommendation). This will improve the rear to follow the front wheels on turns and still feel stable at higher speeds.

*(Tip) Added November 13, 2021
Volvo put a TJ out a number of years back. All P2 XC90s should use the 2009+ wheel alignment spec. Pre-2009, front wheels were toe’d out, now updated to toe-in. The alignment rack software at Volvo dealerships and shops does not have this update, so the updated spec needs to be handed to them. Link to the TJ: Steering wheel vibration
(I reduce front toe-in also, see table below)

⭐ 1st Long-Term Update (May 7, 2020)
- Also see 2nd long-term update for strut mounts below


Besides the changed parts below, the rest mentioned in the original post are going strong with 33k-38k miles on them.

Brakes
-I changed the brake pads to Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic pads. They perform better in cold, wet, and hot compared to Bosch Quietcast and Centric Posi Quiet Semi-Metallic. The Wagner TQ Ceramic does not have the dark brake dust. (Wagner's semi-metallic has less friction)
-Bosch QC and Centric/Stoptech PQ carried a friction rating of FE. FF is a good OEM pad friction rating, so both these pads indicate they can fade with heat. The Wagner TQ Ceramic carries a friction rating of GG, the highest for a street pad.
*(Tip) More about how you can spot good friction on brake pads: Identify low and high friction brake pads

-I changed to Bosch rotors and they rust less than the Zimmermans. I now only recommend the Bosch Quietcast or original Volvo rotors. (Other well-known OE European rotor brands are good too from Ate and Pagid)

Strut Mounts/Bearings
Diagnosing “popping” noise: At about 17k miles, I started to get a creak when I turned the wheel at a slow speed, like out of a parking spot. After around 30k miles of use, it changed to a small pop.
*(Tip) Around 35k miles, I removed one front wheel at a time with the front on a jack stand, then I placed one hand on the strut/spring and the other on the control arm. I had a 2nd person turn left and right. I could feel the pop in the upper area and not the control arm, signaling it is not a balljoint, but the strut mount/bearing.

❗I can no longer recommend Lemforder for a strut mount/bearing. See how they looked. While it did not completely break, it did make a noise creaking and popping. There are other accounts of this in the forum too. The bearing also made [scratchy] wear noise at 38k miles when I checked it after removal. I have now switched to the Corteco strut mount and the noise is gone. Corteco comes with nuts rounded at its upper area, so have a wrench or deep socket ready, otherwise, you can strip the nuts. (see the update to strut mounts below)
🧐 Quality online parts stores stopped carrying Lemforder strut mounts/bearings. The leftover stock is ending up on Ebay. Some of them have fake pics, showing INA bearings and made in Germany when these were made in China and did NOT have INA bearings.

2nd Long-Term Update on strut mounts: more popping (September 25, 2022)

Welp, I just changed the strut mounts/bearings on another XC90 that had Corteco mounts which started to pop while turning the wheel after 24k miles. I installed the (y) Febi-Bilstein mounts as the replacement. The bearings are INA and this brand of bearing is a very well-known OE quality bearing brand. The mount looked of quality on par with the original Volvo. The popping while turning was gone after the install. The XC90 owner does live in a pothole-prone city where there is road construction on his route to work. I expect this Febi-Bilstein mount to last a very long time. Note: The mounts do not come with new nuts
-Along with the strut mounts, it is advisable to change the spring pad/seat/perch at the same time. Due to the available spring pads/seats, Sachs was used in this update. The description notes it is an updated HD design and hopefully, this will also last for a long time.

Rear Suspension (added February 26, 2022)
People have asked about the rear. Without going into the shocks, the best upgrade and maintenance item is the rear trailing arm bushing, or rear stay control arm bushing. Changing the rear trailing arm bushing will improve overall turn-in and handling. The bushing can affect the rear toe when it flexes. The updated bushing is solid rubber while the original has cut-outs for flex. You have to use an original Volvo bushing for this part (some owners have started to use poly with good results too).
Here's the Swedespeed thread about the rear stay control arm: Rear stay control arms bushing replacement

Strut Selection.
While there are options for struts, I have installed the Bilstein B4 Touring struts on non-sport, as well as my Sport suspension. They work extremely well for both types of springs. Since the Bilstein B4s are Touring (not the stiff Bilstein Sport/HD) it is a mild upgrade that yields great results by reducing nose drive and improving handling. The handling will also feel safer. Do your search, but here is some feedback on real-world strut choices: Need Front Strut Suggestions


**Remember, you can always use a slightly higher-rated strut on stock springs. The P2 S60R came with different driving modes (Four-C/Active Chassis), in which the driver could put the struts to Comfort, Sport, and even stiffer Advanced modes, while still using the same springs. Many many modern vehicles have options for dynamic suspensions too while still using the same springs. Some struts/shocks automatically adjust (varying rate) to the road while using the same springs. Bilstein lists the Touring B4s as direct replacements for the XC90.

Sport Suspension parts?

*(Tip) Many XC90s have Sport suspension parts even if they don’t have the Sport or RD package/trim. Find out if you do. Discussion on 3.2s having Sport parts and decoding your XC90.

*(Tip) You can read this post of how to easily check, if you have rear Nivomat Self-Leveling shocks or 328mm dual-piston front brakes

In Summary: Parts & Adjustments to use
(will be updated if needed)

*attaching useful pdfs: list of front OE parts, part numbers, torque specs, etc. from @ggleavitt and updated alignments specs (all XC90s) from @Capndirk
Part or Service
Brand or Adjustment
SUSPENSION
Lower control arm bushings forward
1. Polyurethane Powerflex PFF88-1001
2. Volvo​
Lower control arm bushings rearward
1. Polyurethane Powerflex PFF88-1002
Powerflex redesigned the bushing to perform better
how to properly install rearward poly bushings
2. Volvo
(Volvo's has been downgraded because we are starting to see early failures using the replacement OE Volvo rubber bushings)
Control arm bolts
Replace with new ones since these stretch, are torque to yield.
*Some have had these snap/break when reused
Strut mount/bearing
Febi-Bilstein
(uses OE quality INA bearings, get new nuts)​
Spring pad/perch/seat
Sachs (HD) or Rein​
Ball joints
Lemforder​
Sway bar end links
Meyle (HD) or Lemforder​
Front struts
Bilstein B4 Touring
(Works for both Sport & non-Sport springs, and all engine variants)​
Rear trailing arm bushing (rear stay control arm bushing)
Volvo
(updated as a solid rubber bushing,
~2014 might have the solid bushing already)
STEERING
Steering tie-rods
Lemforder or Volvo​
Alignment toe front
(All P2 XC90s)
Use 2009+ specs (toe'd in) and can reduce a little to +0.05° on each side or total toe at +0.10°
*still within the acceptable range, will help tire wear & handling
Alignment toe rear
(All P2 XC90s)
Reduce the overall toe to +0.10° each side or total toe at +0.20°
*still within the acceptable range, will help tire wear & handling
BRAKES
Brake pads
Look for friction ratings. FF and higher, like the Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramics (rated GG for 336mm)​
Brake bleeding
Front caliper bleeder screws tend to corrode, seize, and sometimes break off in the caliper. At the very least, soak with penetrating oil a couple of times a day for 2-3 days before breaking loose. You might need a little heat as well.​
Rear parking brake
Rear parking brake tends to rust and get gunked up. This can make it stick engaged. Service at 80k-100k miles, get an adjustment screw (e.g. Raybestos or Centric hardware kit) to fine-tune and get a new parking shoe adjuster/lever.​
OTHER
Subframe polyurethane bushing inserts
Do only the rearward 2 bushing inserts.
Get new bolts as these stretch, are torque to yield.
(The forward bolts get rusted & fused into the body. The bolts break when trying to remove them, avoid this)
 

Attachments

See less See more
3
#4 ·
I hope it helps with choosing the right parts. A picture is worth a thousand words.

I do hope someone who is using the Ate rotors can chime in on how they perform and if they also form light rust when it is humid or wet.
 
#5 ·
Volvo doesn’t sell just the control arm bushings. At least, I could never find them when I was looking. If you want “Volvo,” you have to buy the complete arm with bushings. Lemforder is the only “aftermarket” bushings that hold up. That’s what I used, as well as others here, with no issues. Many will be keeping an eye on your poly bushings over time, as that’s most likely the best way to go for aftermarket, if they seem reliable.
 
#6 ·
Volvo doesn't sell just the control arm bushings. At least, I could never find them when I was looking. If you want "Volvo," you have to buy the complete arm with bushings. Lemforder is the only "aftermarket" bushings that hold up. That's what I used, as well as others here, with no issues. Many will be keeping an eye on your poly bushings over time, as that's most likely the best way to go for aftermarket, if they seem reliable.
Please check before posting. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vo...arm-bushing-front-lower-xc90-genuine-31277881

FCP does sell original Volvo bushings. There isn't any questionability on Volvo reliability.
 
#10 ·
I replaced the 4C shocks in my S80 V8 with the Bilstein B4s for the same reason you put them in the XC90. I thought they would give me a slightly crisper ride than the Sachs.

Bilsteins are supposed to weep a little bit. The right side weeps significantly more than the left, and even though I replaced everything other than the spring from the control arm up to the nut on the top of the strut I get creaking noises like I used to get on my 68 Firebird. I put Lemforder control arms in.

Im curious to see how much fluid your B4s weep. I may replace them next year after about 40k.

These are the brakes I put in the V8 XC90. https://www.amazon.com/Power-ESK450...utomotive&vehicleId=14&vehicleType=automotive They have a better cold bite than the Akebono pads with Centric rotors we had on the 06 T5 XC90. But they are dirtier.

As an aside, the S80 has 110k on it and the front pads have plenty of life. I replaced the rear pads with textar at about 60k when I bough the car 3 years ago (BMW uses textar on their regular cars, and Pagid (same manufacturer) on their M cars. Got that from a rep).
 
#13 ·
Good info Tommm and I can't believe they say it's normal. If it was purchased from FCP, their lifetime warranty means you purchase a new set first and when they receive the old ones, you get the refund. That said, I never did a warranty claim on shocks or struts on any car.

Mine don't weep with 14k miles on them. I would still purchase them again when it is time to replace. It fits my driving style.
 
#15 ·
Since my feedback is for the 3.2L, I wanted to update this thread for the V8 and this thread https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...-V8-R-Design&p=7237175&viewfull=1#post7237175. Regarding the front struts, the Sachs may have been developed for the 2.5t weight and might not be suitable for the V8 weight in conjunction with the R/Sport spring settings.

I have encountered underdamped front struts when dealing with sport springs in BMWs. When blueprinting and calculating the suspension, both the compression and rebound have to be spec'd for the spring rate and vehicle weight. The Bilstein B4 struts should have a higher compression rate and rebound rate than the Sachs and should better match the heavier V8.

If anyone with an XC90 V8 has experience with the Sachs or Bilstein B4s could chime in, it would be useful.
 
#17 ·
How are the Centric Posi brake pads from a dust generation perspective? I'm entering my replacement window soon. Thinking EBC or Akebono but would be willing consider other options.

Sidenote: I knew you had posted this but I swear I couldn't find it. That's why I texted you.
I forgot I had bookmarked it on my old Windows and I'm back on Mac, that's why I couldn't find the bookmark. LMAO!
 
#18 ·
Glad you asked because I want to give updates when I can. The Centric Posi brake pads are good, but once in a while I did get the, losing some friction, when cold and wet. Not as bad as the Bosch pads. After ~5k miles, the pedal does have to be pushed more, especially when cold.

I still would not recommend Akebonos. They work well for only 2 reasons: to reduce dust and stop well when you push 90-100% force for immediate stopping. All other times, the pedal has to be pushed much further and very little grip when cold in the morning. They also do that thing where you try to stop and it has little friction towards the beginning, then after it gets warm, it grips hard at the very end. This can feel like you are about to rear end the car in front or seem like you like to tailgate people.

I don't have experience with EBC.

I guess we can't win them all when it comes to brake pads. I am due in the next month or two for new front pads and rotors, so I will be updating what I do. I already decided not to use the Zimmerman rotors because of the rusting issue on the friction surface.

The pads, I was set on getting Ate pads because their friction rating (GF) is higher than the OEMs (FE) like Pagid, Textar, Bosch, and others. But I just removed a set of Ate pads that was put on on a BMW 12 years ago because the dust was so bad and caked on. Trying to still search if Ate updated their compounds within the last 5-10 years so it dusts a little less. Others I am still considering besides Ate are Brembo (still some issues due to it being a ceramic pad), Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic (the ceramic has a higher friction rating than their Semi-metallics and I put these on 4 different cars), and dusty Volvo.

I was trying to understand why the Volvo XC90 was the only vehicle I experienced with the losing brake friction when cold, wet/snow, not touching the brakes for some time, issue. I know in racing we look at the backspacing between the wheel and caliper. This area could contribute to debris getting caught. Also, the caliper design, same issue of debris staying in. The XC90 also does not have brake vents to cool or helps debris (including water) get moved. So, still trying to get a basic understanding of what the cause is and which type of pads would work best.
 
#19 ·
Hmmm, good feedback.
I noticed how soft the initial bite on the XC90's brake pads and lack of immediate stopping power is in the rain or the cold (or both).
The duality of braking response dependent on temp & wetness is some of the worst I've ever experienced short of a Mazda B2000 I briefly owned way back in the 90's.
 
#21 ·
Do you know what pads and rotors are in there now?
 
#22 ·
The headlight unexpectedly began lighting again about 6 weeks ago! The ABLs still do not function and remain locked 15º left of center.

Chitown happened to be in town about a month ago and graciously took time out of his evening to VIDA scan it.
I forgot what the code read though. :( I took a picture and accidentally deleted it during a device transfer.

I'll have to live with it for now as I have bigger issues (shifter claw now broken) and my front tires are nearly toast.

Do you know what pads and rotors are in there now?
Almost 100% certain Volvo OEM. The truck was only serviced by Volvo Princeton prior to my purchase.
 
#24 ·
We really should sticky this thread. There's good info here. Smart choices in parts, and it's a good jumping off point for a variety of conversations.

How are the Lemforder ball joints holding up? I don't "want" to do my ball joints yet, but I know I'll feel stupid if I don't when I replace the lower control arms. :)

Thanks!

-Ryan
 
  • Like
Reactions: ChitownV
#26 · (Edited)
The ball joints are inexpensive parts; $20 a side. Might as well replace them if you're doing the control arms. My control arm bushings are beginning to fail contributing to my tires feathering on the outer edges. It won't hold the proper camber and sits with too much negative on the fronts.

I could probably get away with having someone press in bushings but as I have come to find out during research, Volvo uses a recycled rubber mix in an effort to be more environmentally conscience. The achilles heel is they break down at an accelerated rate especially so in a heavy XC90. The second rub is most mechanics won't warranty the work or the subsequent alignment if you only press in new bushings, so, I'll replace the LCAs and ball joints at the same time.

That said, I have driven ChiTown's XC90 and can attest to the noticeable improvement. If you have ever driven a BWM with a M-Sport Package suspension or an Audi with an S-Line, this is what his combination comes very close to replicating. It delivers tire and road feedback through the steering wheel, tracks, and manages bumps and road imperfections more adeptly than Volvo's stock package. If you're one who prefers a more Germanic ride and handling quality, his step-by-step component selection is the way to go.

Can you create a rear end build [emoji3]
2010 xc90 3.2 | 2017 Prius V Five
Well, if you have Nivomats, remove and then burn them. That's usually an excellent first step. :D
 
#27 ·
Well, usually the work is majority the front for suspension issues, but stick with Volvo bushings. I have Nivomats so I don't plan on changing the shocks anytime soon.

I might put something together because I did do work on the bushings, arms, etc. on my own and others' XC90s, but board already has many good threads for the rear.
 
#29 ·
I wanted to update this thread so anyone who uses it as a guide can get the most up to date info.

More on control arm bushings and experience using different rubber brands versus polyurethane: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?603599-Anyone-quot-gone-poly-quot-for-the-LCA-s

The new iPd control arms which are rubber: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...ontrol-arms-who-will-be-the-first-to-try-them

As far as the brake pads, I noticed the Centric Posi-quiet pads are soft pads so you have to push the pedal more, especially when cold. I am going to replace with Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic pads all around and new front rotors. I will give feedback on those. I have had great results on 5 other cars with the Wagners to date so I hope they do well for the XC90 too. Very affordable pads btw.
 
#30 ·
I ran the Wagner Thermo Quiet semi metallics and they were poo in cold/wet.

Switched to Jurid. Very satisfied. Won't run anything else now.
 
#31 ·
Yeah, ironically the Wagner TQ Semi-metallic has LESS friction than the Ceramic (from their own graphs from years ago). I do have first-hand experience of using the Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic on other vehicles (BMW, Mercedes, Land Rover, Honda) and they work great in those applications both dry and winter wet. It has more bite and friction than factory supplied pads (such as Jurid & Textar). I recommended them to a friend who just took his LR3 offroad in Colorado a few weeks ago. He heated them up on downhills and drove through cold snowy days. All I heard was praise from him.

I do like to only give real-world results. The only way to know for sure is to try them. I got the fronts on an Amazon deal for $16 and the rears go for around $32. So, cheap enough to try and give feedback.

I have used Jurid on other European cars, but they are dirty as he**. They also cake on so it makes it extremely difficult to clean, sometimes causing permanent brake dust spots. Add if you brush the dirty wheel with a nice suit pant it stains. Not for me.
 
#33 ·
It could be because you're in New Zealand. Jurid and Textar are both brands very commonly used in European vehicles. It's like saying Bosch. The brands can vary based on region, supplier contracts at the time, etc. Often for parts like brake pads or tires, there is more than one manufacturer that can be used throughout the years.
 
#35 ·
You and I disagree on that one. I loathe those pads and had bad experiences on every car I installed them on. I put a description of how they perform earlier in this thread. Maybe you could add your own too so that people have different perspectives from different people.
 
#36 ·
I put Akebono pads and new discs on all 4 wheels last summer. I have nothing bad to say about them. I won't rave about them, but when I step on the brake the car stops as I expect it to. They have not cured my male pattern baldness, though.
 
#38 ·
Good to know! Thanks for people's real-world feedback and info, even though we didn't cure John C's male pattern baldness. I will give updates on the Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramics and with the winter season here, can give feedback on the cold/wet braking.
 
#39 ·
Footnote: I'm reading people in the SPA XC90 who have being dealing with a double whammy of squealing brakes and easily warped rotors, moving to Centric brand cryogenic brake rotors and Akebono pads as a solution to the problem.
 
#40 · (Edited)
One application I used Akebono Euro Ceramics on a Mercedes S class, I got a lot of squealing because the much-less friction in light to medium brake pedal pressure meant I had to push even harder every time I broke. So, the Akebono pads glazed from the increased pressure needed every time. I will say this though, in 80% or more of pedal pressure, it had more grip than OE Mercedes pads, but for everyday driving it was a pain. The Mercedes came stock with 4 piston calipers up front.
 
#41 ·
I used Oem.Volvo first years and had only problems. Warped disks vibrations shaking squeeking like killing pig. Than i use Ate and last much longer and never ever 1 single sound or problems at all. Volvo no thanks any more for nice blue box from India.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
#54 · (Edited)
I used Oem.Volvo first years and had only problems. Warped disks vibrations shaking squeeking like killing pig. Than i use Ate and last much longer and never ever 1 single sound or problems at all. Volvo no thanks any more for nice blue box from India.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
I dont know about where you are, but OE pads supplied here in Blighty are made by none other than...A.T.E.

I'm using OE Ate pads with Lockheed-Delphi discs. The discs are Geomet coated, so no rusting on the bells, edges or inside the vanes. This is good, because up until now mine tended to corrode faster than they wore.
 
Top