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    1. #36
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      Currently lining the driverís side B pillar with Fatmat and then some Noico Green foam. Iím hoping the trim pieces will go back on properly. Iím also attempting to tighten some looser contact points between the body door opening weatherstrip and the trim around the door itself, stuffing a length of Caulk Saver into a groove in the weatherstrip, essentially plumping it up to make tighter contact with the door. Seeing how loose the tolerances were, this should help reduce wind noise significantly.
      How did you remove the pillar? Instructions of any kind would be great. Probably next weekend (its supposed to rain this one) i am pulling all of the trim from my trunk and going to town. I can report on that. i am also planning to put some foam in the a pillar creases, that were mentioned where they meet the hood.
      2012 S60 T6 (non R), P*, do88 FMIC, k&N drop in, IPD Sway Bar, PowerFlex "RACE" Torque Mount insert, Stop Tech Slotted Rotors, IPD turbo Back exhaust, More to come?.

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    3. #37
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      :crickets:

      Man, I miss the VW GTI forums where a large number of people contributed on a regular basis. Things were a lot more lively. Such a different scene here, lol. Anyhow, I do hope others will continue to weigh in and report on their progress or add any additional info they might have.
      Rose colored glasses. I stopped posting on VW vortex, at least in the Mk7 forum. Every post i made got shunted into an existing thread, where it died because no one was willing to read a 15 page thread to hit my comment. All of the Advice i recieved was "VW knows best" except when they were arguing about the 87 octane sticker on the 17 and newer models. A lot of people, not a lot of knowledge IMO. /rant
      2012 S60 T6 (non R), P*, do88 FMIC, k&N drop in, IPD Sway Bar, PowerFlex "RACE" Torque Mount insert, Stop Tech Slotted Rotors, IPD turbo Back exhaust, More to come?.

    4. #38
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      Sound Deadening questions

      Quote Originally Posted by 04lss View Post
      Rose colored glasses. I stopped posting on VW vortex, at least in the Mk7 forum. Every post i made got shunted into an existing thread, where it died because no one was willing to read a 15 page thread to hit my comment. All of the Advice i recieved was "VW knows best" except when they were arguing about the 87 octane sticker on the 17 and newer models. A lot of people, not a lot of knowledge IMO. /rant
      A common curse of mature forums, I find. Same happens to me on other forums. Most frustrating thing is the inability to convince moderators to let your questions stay posted as separate topics
      (My off-topic ends here)



      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    6. #39
      Quote Originally Posted by fritzlovesmary View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      Currently lining the driver’s side B pillar with Fatmat and then some Noico Green foam. I’m hoping the trim pieces will go back on properly. I’m also attempting to tighten some looser contact points between the body door opening weatherstrip and the trim around the door itself, stuffing a length of Caulk Saver into a groove in the weatherstrip, essentially plumping it up to make tighter contact with the door. Seeing how loose the tolerances were, this should help reduce wind noise significantly.
      That sounds very interesting. What groove are you talking about, though?

      Fritz
      Hi Fritz,
      If you open the door and then pull the inside edge of the weatherstrip around the door openings toward you, that inside portion is holllw and has just enough room that you can put caulk saver there to puff them out slightly. This makes them seal a bit more tightly to the door.

      I also bought some surgical rubber tubing of the same thickness as the foam caulk saver. I haven’t tried it yet but I suspect it will hold its shape better and may also have better sound blocking properties than the flimsy foam caulk saver.
      Attached Images Attached Images
      Last edited by Bunnspeed; 03-01-2019 at 01:09 PM.
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    7. #40
      Quote Originally Posted by 04lss View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      Currently lining the driver’s side B pillar with Fatmat and then some Noico Green foam. I’m hoping the trim pieces will go back on properly. I’m also attempting to tighten some looser contact points between the body door opening weatherstrip and the trim around the door itself, stuffing a length of Caulk Saver into a groove in the weatherstrip, essentially plumping it up to make tighter contact with the door. Seeing how loose the tolerances were, this should help reduce wind noise significantly.
      How did you remove the pillar? Instructions of any kind would be great. Probably next weekend (its supposed to rain this one) i am pulling all of the trim from my trunk and going to town. I can report on that. i am also planning to put some foam in the a pillar creases, that were mentioned where they meet the hood.
      I posed the same question in a separate thread. There’s a helpful response within that thread. You’ll have to take care not to break brittle plastic tabs and clips which, in this case, aren’t the same sort of burly heavy duty bits securing the door panels.
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/#/topics/593139
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    8. #41
      Quote Originally Posted by 04lss View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      Currently lining the driver’s side B pillar with Fatmat and then some Noico Green foam. I’m hoping the trim pieces will go back on properly. I’m also attempting to tighten some looser contact points between the body door opening weatherstrip and the trim around the door itself, stuffing a length of Caulk Saver into a groove in the weatherstrip, essentially plumping it up to make tighter contact with the door. Seeing how loose the tolerances were, this should help reduce wind noise significantly.
      How did you remove the pillar? Instructions of any kind would be great. Probably next weekend (its supposed to rain this one) i am pulling all of the trim from my trunk and going to town. I can report on that. i am also planning to put some foam in the a pillar creases, that were mentioned where they meet the hood.
      I posed the same question in a separate thread. There’s a helpful response within that thread. You’ll have to take care not to break brittle plastic tabs and clips which, in this case, aren’t the same sort of burly heavy duty bits securing the door panels.
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/#/topics/593139
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    9. #42
      Junior Member fritzlovesmary's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      Hi Fritz,
      If you open the door and then pull the inside edge of the weatherstrip around the door openings toward you, that inside portion is holllw and has just enough room that you can put caulk saver there to puff them out slightly. This makes them seal a bit more tightly to the door.

      I also bought some surgical rubber tubing of the same thickness as the foam caulk saver. I havenít tried it yet but I suspect it will hold its shape better and may also have better sound blocking properties than the flimsy foam caulk saver.

      Thank you for that, I will look into that - literally...

      When I had my inside door panels off I noticed when I put them back on that there is a little gap between the panel and the metal of the door, created by the plastic clips.
      Home Depot sells rolls of nail-on felt, which is 1 1/4" wide and 17' long for just a few dollars. This stuff works perfectly to stuff it around the panel and to close that gap, also works in other areas, of course.

      Fritz
      2017 V60 CC

    10. #43
      You’re welcome, Fritz!

      I was able to complete my left side B pillar project. I also found that if you completely remove the major body weatherstrip around the door opening, it creates a big gap between trim pieces and the sheet metal of the body, revealing lots of places that might benefit from SD materials that you can now access with long fingers or creative repurposing of other tools that can help you get in there and position things properly. Without removing the A pillar trim, you can push some strips of deadener followed by strips or rolled tubes of foam sound block into the A pillar through the gap between panel trim pieces and metal body. Be sure to stick those pieces to the metal of the body’s A pillar and don’t do anything to actually permanently connect the A pillar trim, or cover any of the scary mechanical bits hidden back there, or do anything that could obviously set off an airbag or prevent the airbag in that pillar from deploying properly. Proceed with great care and gentleness.

      I want to take this moment to remind you all that we are working on cars that were engineered a certain way and we are tampering with that engineering to improve noise reduction, but in doing so there might be unforeseen consequences: dangers doing the work itself, or we might reduce the effectiveness of some of the safety features. Therefore, if you choose to proceed at your own risk, do so knowing you might decrease the safety of your car, yourself, and your family. I hope not, and I’m trying to proceed without impacting upon safety features, but I am not a professional engineer, just a hobbiest with good intentions; therefore, I am not to be held responsible for any injury that might result if things go wrong during or after you apply some of these ideas.
      Last edited by Bunnspeed; 03-03-2019 at 07:30 AM.
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    11. #44
      Junior Member MDicnMan's Avatar
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      Wow, this is some great information. I do wish that my only problem was road/wind noise. My v60 has rattles that are enough to push me over the edge if the stereo is off. All come from the rear and I have had very little luck isolating them. Have any of you run across 'usual suspects' for rattles?
      Current: 2020 V60CC, Osmium Grey, Amber
      Past: 2015.5 V60 T5 AWD, Savile Grey, Beechwood.
      Past: 2011 V50 AWD, Savile Grey
      First: 1978 245DL - Orange, Tan

    12. #45
      Quote Originally Posted by MDicnMan View Post
      Wow, this is some great information. I do wish that my only problem was road/wind noise. My v60 has rattles that are enough to push me over the edge if the stereo is off. All come from the rear and I have had very little luck isolating them. Have any of you run across 'usual suspects' for rattles?
      My car is loud but thankfullly it isn’t particularly rattly. My suggestion for locating the rattles is to have someone chauffeur you around town, driving over bumpy roads, while you crawl around the back like a weirdo trying to isolate the source with careful listening, putting your ear to every possible spot, with rear seat up, down, seatbelt in various positions, etc. There are lots of reasons for rattles, so the fix may be different depending on the source. Actually locating the source is 80% of the job, and you can check back with us for possible fixes after that. But be prepared to replace broken or worn clips between trim pieces, or add some foam or felt to make a snug contact point between trim/ body pieces that have play, etc. Sometimes it’s as simple as repositioning an unused seatbelt buckle that’s tapping on a plastic trim piece, or wiggling and then re-latching a folding rear seat, or securing tools in the hatch area better.
      Last edited by Bunnspeed; 03-06-2019 at 05:25 PM.
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    13. #46
      Junior Member T6dude's Avatar
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      Had a rattle that drove me crazy, came up during hitting certain bumps. After much searching found that my rear passenger door panel was not as tight as it should be. Felt like it was snug enough, but after hitting it with my fist to make a tighter fit it solved the rattle. I previously just pushed it tighter when I was trying to track the noise down, but a little more pressure was what it needed. A little "persuasive percussion" did the trick.

      Otherwise pretty much what Bunnspeed wrote, and yes, that pesky seatbelt buckle got me too.
      Current: 2012 S60 R Design, P* tune - "Speedy Rabbit" (Named by granddaughter after a spirited run)
      Traded: 1999 S80 T-6 - "Brit"
      Traded: 1983 850 GLT - "Samson"

    14. #47
      Minor setback with my B pillar project: My seatbelt is slightly slack and isn’t retracting properly, so I messed something up. Hopefully it’s just a matter of trimming back or removing some of the material I put into the B pillar which might be pressing against the seatbelt causing enough stiction to prevent it from winding back up. In any case it will require me to take the B pillar apart again and do some additional work there. Small gains don’t come easy in the quest to make this car quieter than a garbage truck.
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    15. #48
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      Buunnspeed what did you replace the sunroof and door rubber seals with, just new oem ones or different type?

    16. #49
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      I realize this thread is 15 months old, but was just reading through it as it was bumped up.

      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      Man, I miss the VW GTI forums where a large number of people contributed on a regular basis. Things were a lot more lively.
      Same coming from Audizine, certainly takes a little getting used to.

      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      Minor setback with my B pillar project: My seatbelt is slightly slack and isnít retracting properly, so I messed something up.
      While I am sure you have this figured out already, given it was from March last year, it's the upper piece of the B-pillar not hooked in properly to the seatbelt height adjuster that causes this. There are 2 rectangle slots and if they are not properly lined up when putting the trim back on it causes the seatbelt not to retract properly.

      Some good information in here, I must be one of the lucky ones in that my V60 is actually pretty quiet as it is. I do still plan to do some sound deadening though to improve the sound quality, I have a couple rattles in the passenger door as well that I want to take care of at some point as well. Currently though waiting for the door latch recall to be completed before doing any real work in the doors, but some of the posts on the B-pillars / A-pillar areas and new seals have me looking at those areas.

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