It all started with a broken exhaust stud
Username
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    Page 1 of 8 1 2 3 4 5 ... LastLast
    Results 1 to 35 of 251
    1. #1
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633

      It all started with a broken exhaust stud

      I developed a bad exhaust manifold leak. I got the parts in and set about removing the manifold. After getting all the exhaust manifold nuts off, I only counted 9 of them. I wondered if the 10th nut / stud had been left off inadvertently or maybe came loose and fell out.

      So I continued to curse at the car, I mean remove the turbo and pry etc. until the manifold came out. After I had removed it, I felt around from the top and found the hole where the missing stud should have been ... lo and behold, what's in the hole but the torqued off remains of a stud.

      So it appears the previous owner conveniently neglected to mention that he torqued an exhaust manifold stud off in the block. I'm thrilled. You can see from the pics I took (below) that it was obviously leaking badly.

      I don't think I have enough room to get a stud extractor in there, since this is the stud closest to the turbo & angle gear.

      Am I wrong? Has anyone successfully extracted a broken stud in this location before? Or is it time to pull the engine?

      Here it is:



      And the other 4, just for kicks:

      (I removed the last bit of gasket after this shot...)







      (This one was also leaking ...)



      Group shot of the old gaskets...



      And lastly maybe a dumb question but I thought I ordered the correct exhaust manifold nuts from FCP. The nuts that showed up are too big ... did I order the wrong part, or did FCP goof?

      Last edited by lawdogg; 07-12-2020 at 09:17 PM.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    2. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    3. #2
      Member
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      Congo
      Posts
      9,161
      it's possible but very difficult and im almost certain it will not come out straight




      2000 Toyota Tacoma
      2000 ML320
      2000 ML55 AMG
      2005 XCR90
      2006 C70
      2006 S60R - gone
      1997 Avalon - gone - son - space-force

    4. #3
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Thanks Dougy. ugh.

      I wonder if I'd have enough room if I just pulled the turbo and maybe dropped the angle gear.

      Speaking of pulling the turbo, I can't for the life of me remove the intake pipe hose clamp. Some a-hole put the screw under the wastegate so I can't get a socket on it. And there's no room for a screw driver.
      Last edited by lawdogg; 02-17-2019 at 11:03 PM.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    5. Remove Advertisements
      SwedeSpeed.com
      Advertisements
       

    6. #4
      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Thanks Dougy. ugh.

      I wonder if I'd have enough room if I just pulled the turbo and maybe dropped the angle gear.

      Speaking of pulling the turbo, I can't for the life of me remove the intake pipe hose clamp. Some a-hole put the screw under the wastegate so I can't get a socket on it. And there's no room for a screw driver.
      That turbo air inlet hose clamp is retarded! That entire area is just super tight and poorly designed, as if it was put in as an afterthought. Figure out which side the head of the screw is on - might be covered in oily crap. Might need to use one of those low clearance sockets or pass through wrenches.

      As for the busted stud, Dougy has the fastest method. Squirt some ATF/Acetone or penetrating oil of choice on that now. Let it sink i for a while. Might get lucky and it'll come out easy. If plan A fails, can you weld a nut to it if you pull the turbo/mani?

      If it were mine and plan A and B failed, i'd probably go for pulling the head and then shimming the block while i'm in there. Pulling and reinstalling the valve cover, intake, cams, T belt, and ancillary stuff is all pretty easy. Plus, you get the added bonus of shimming the block. Heck, while you got the head off you can get it resurfaced or machined to your spec and maybe even use a Cometic gasket.
      Going in from the bottom might be slightly faster, but you carry the risk of messing up the front pass axle on removal. On top of that, if you get the turbo and AG out, you're going to want to put a new axle seal in the tranny, reseal the AG, and evaluate the collar gear, which very well might be thrashed... Can pretty easily go down the rabbit hole... At least if you take the head off, you know exactly what you're up against and how much it costs.

      Also.... use the one piece exhaust gasket!

    7. #5
      Member
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      Congo
      Posts
      9,161
      if you decide to remove the head I highly recommend upgrading to a next size studs for the exhaust manifold , you'll always have one or two pull/strip when re-tightening from the head and the chances increase the more you remove and replace the manifold like i do and as you know or will know soon drilling and tapping on the car is not fun ... with larger size you'll never have that problem...those studs should have been thicker to start with for turbo models...over the years i did 4 so far on this R.


      two on the right are thicker

      2000 Toyota Tacoma
      2000 ML320
      2000 ML55 AMG
      2005 XCR90
      2006 C70
      2006 S60R - gone
      1997 Avalon - gone - son - space-force

    8. #6
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Pulling the head hadn't even crossed my mind since I'm so used to working on other platforms where it's easier to pull the whole engine than the heads. Hmm. I do suppose since I'm at ~230k a new HG and shims wouldn't be a bad idea. And the last time the timing belt was done was 170k. I need to look up the service intervals.

      Edit: Thinking more about pulling the head and shimming.

      Question: Can you get to the head bolts through the cam cover or do you have to remove it? And are shims something to be purchased or should I buy some kind of sheet metal (steel? Al?) and cut my own? Or do people really use Harbor Freight feel gauge shims?

      Someone (assuming a board member) made a great series of videos showing how to remove the head, including removing the cams / cam cover. The videos stopped short of showing how to put the shims in.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFgZD1OyCT4

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LCPHVBUV9M

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FfCPGnKJgM

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRWGTQWFaso
      Last edited by lawdogg; 02-18-2019 at 01:17 PM.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    9. #7
      Pulling the head sucks, but you don't quite risk going down the rabbit hole as much as you do with the AG method, which might not even work.
      Get a screwgun/small impact gun/electric ratchet/power tool and unbolt the 40+ bolts that hold the cam cover down. Use a 3/8" extension at the pry points to pop it off and break the anaerobic sealer off. After that top cover is off, you'll see the head bolts.

      Pretty sure that Roger Dee works sells shims. He's in Canada, but his products are absolutely exceptional.

      That said, i'd try to extract that bolt via non disassembly means first... Torch, penetrating oil, etc are your friend. Maybe you'll get lucky and it's not uber seized. I'd rather spend a couple hours cussing and attempting extracting than dumping several hours and hundreds of $$ in tinkering with a HG that doesn't even need to be replaced.

    10. #8
      Member HunterBD's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      Auburn
      Posts
      1,249
      Can you clean off the circled area and tell me what number you have stamped there? Is it 10,000?
      05 VR GT Titanium Grey/Nordakp, sunroof, Winter Package, Premium sound with Volvo Sub. VST rear brace, Ultra Racing front strut brace. iPD Sways and other little upgrades they have. EST DP with Touring Exhaust.

    11. #9
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      outside Boston area
      Posts
      183
      The stud was probably broken last time someone pulled the manifold. I have never seen one break like this on its own.
      How long did the gasket last with the broken stud?
      May be worth putting it back together as is.

    12. #10
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Quote Originally Posted by HunterBD View Post
      Can you clean off the circled area and tell me what number you have stamped there? Is it 10,000?
      I'll check - y tho?

      Quote Originally Posted by dcm0123 View Post
      The stud was probably broken last time someone pulled the manifold. I have never seen one break like this on its own.
      How long did the gasket last with the broken stud?
      May be worth putting it back together as is.
      It's funny how something like this brings hindsight into focus. In hindsight, I always had a little exhaust leak, but it was pretty small and I couldn't get rid of it, so I just didn't think about it. I could only hear it with the windows down driving next to a wall - even then, the radio would drown it out. Looking back, it must have been coming from this. So, it's been leaking the entire ~20k miles I've owned the car, just not really that badly until recently. I thought about just putting it back on, but I am not going to let myself cut that corner.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    13. #11
      Member n23's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Tampa, FL
      Posts
      2,199
      I had three studs break when I tried to change my exhaust gaskets myself. Lucky for me, none of them broke under the deck, so I was able to rethread the bolts very slightly - maybe two turns. Like that I drove it for a bit, leaking and noisy, and then let my indy fix it. On the lift, with the turbo and AG out, he used heat and those three jerks came out easy. If you don't want to pull the whole motor, I bet a local indy could do it for a hundred bucks. That one doesn't look easy but you aren't the first person to ever have this problem either.

    14. #12
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      I had to disconnect the wastegate from the compressor housing to get the intake pipe off, that thing is horrible.

      Well I am working on getting the turbo out. Have it disconnected but it doesn't want to come out from the top, just barely not enough room.

      Edit: It's out. Turned it upside down, turbine housing came out first, then slid it towards the p/s to get the compressor housing out. I may have bent the wastegate bracket on the turbine housing but hopefully can bend it back.

      I removed the compressor housing, good news is the compressor wheels looks to be in excellent shape, and there's hardly any shaft play, in fact less than I've seen on brand new journal bearing turbos.
      Last edited by lawdogg; 02-24-2019 at 03:30 PM.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    15. #13
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Quote Originally Posted by HunterBD View Post
      Can you clean off the circled area and tell me what number you have stamped there? Is it 10,000?
      It looks more like 100000? Why does it matter? Edit: Made the pic big, to check up close.




      Anyway turbo out of the way have a bit more room ...

      Last edited by lawdogg; 02-24-2019 at 06:24 PM.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    16. #14
      Junior Member Noreaster's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Lunenburg MA
      Posts
      259
      I was successful extracting a stud on my saab 9-5, just what Douggy said, right angle driver, left hand drill bits, good center punch, oxy/acetylene torch.

      heat cycling with the torch along with penetrating oil will give you the beat chance and take care to get the punch centered and if you start small and drill straight with plenty of heat it MIGHT back out

      that's how mine went granted it wasn't on the back side of the engine

      good luck
      New to me 2005 V70R with a laundry list........

      SOLD!...2004 V70R 213K Black Sapphire/Nordkap/GT/upper poly mount(thanks Dougy)Snabb intake/Phuzz TCV/Viva CBV/K&N/OBX DP(thanks Fitzy)Custom 3" Maganaflow cat back/Evolve rear sway bar(again thanks Fitzy)

    17. #15
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Thanks - yeah I've decided Plan A will be to extract. I only have a propane torch, maybe I'll try it for fun. Plan B will be to weld a nut to it. Plan C will be to pull the head. Knock on wood.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    18. #16
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Realized there was no way to drill and see the the stud at the same time.

      So I used a CD





      However, the first harbor freight drill bit wouldn't even touch the stud, the first Craftsman bit snapped, and the second larger Craftsman bit jumped out of the pilot hole and started to drill close to the threads.

      Said F this noise, I'll try again tomorrow.

      In the meantime ... now that I have accidentally created an off-center pilot hole, how can I get it re-centered if I can't get down there to sand it flat to start over? I bought a fresh cobalt drill bit set and will pick up a transfer punch set and hope that works.
      Last edited by lawdogg; 02-24-2019 at 11:56 PM.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    19. #17
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Location
      Atlanta, GA
      Posts
      175
      I have actually had a LOT of success with an offset Pilot hole.

      I do it on purpose.

      Slightly off center, and step up the size of your bit until it ever so slightly compromises the edge of the threads on 1/4 of the hole.

      This breaks the “360” seize and also allows more penetrating oil into the threads.

      I have never had a issue with strength after the fact.

      Just did it again (for the 7or8th time on my Range Rover with a broken stud on the passenger side down pipe when I was replacing the Cats).

      There is a HUGE advantage to breaking the “360” rust circle, and you still have 330 degrees (or something close to it) for re-use.

      Just my .02 cents, but it has worked for my MANY times over the last 30 years.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    20. #18
      .Is there enough room back there to fit one of those Harbor Freight spring loaded punches? That way you could punch it a buncha times and get the drill to stay centered.
      Don't cheap out on drill bits here -- This'll come back and bite you in the arse. Break a bit or a tool in that stud, and you're gonna make your problems worse.

      Do you have a welder? If you got the turbo out, weld a nut on and be done with it. Broke off pretty close to the surface, so it shouldn't be too hard aside from being in a damn near blind position. Remember, the head is aluminum, so if you weld DC and using some kinda wire/rod for ferrous materials, it ain't gonna adhere to the aluminum, just the stud. Plus, the massive heat from the welder tends to break a lot of the seized crap free.

    21. #19
      Member BlkT5's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2003
      Location
      Victoria, BC
      Posts
      1,382
      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      It looks more like 100000? Why does it matter? Edit: Made the pic big, to check up close.



      Those aren't 0's, they are letters that refer to what sized pistons were used in each cyl 1-5. In this case DDDDD.
      Yellow 95 850 T-5R - SOLD
      Black 98 S70 T5M - Heavily modded
      Laser 00 V70R M66 - 03 T5 motor M66 AWD swapped. Stevo tuned
      Sappicama 04 V70R M66 - Hilton Stage 1
      Magicama 05 S60R M66 - Stock
      Mysticama 05 S60R M66 - Stock
      Electic Nord 06 V70R M66 - Stock

    22. #20
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Thanks guys. I will get a spring-loaded punch as well.

      I don't have a welder now but have been waiting for an excuse to get a cheap one for little stuff like this. It certainly seems easy from online videos, but it's been 15 years since I picked up a welder.

      On the D meaning piston size, got it. How many different piston sizes came in these blocks? Is one size generally better than another, maybe a difference in sleeve thickness? Edit: Found an answer (https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...esides-letter)). Now I've got two things in the house with Ds.
      Last edited by lawdogg; 02-25-2019 at 04:38 PM.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    23. #21
      Member HunterBD's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      Auburn
      Posts
      1,249

      Anyone extracted a broken exhaust manifold stud?

      [QUOTE=lawdogg;7250649]It looks more like 100000? Why does it matter? Edit: Made the pic big, to check up close.



      I have the same number. I just thought it was strange that they stamped a number on the engine right there. Thanks for checking.

      Edit: Thanks BlkT5 for clarifying So its a 5D...hmmm
      Last edited by HunterBD; 02-26-2019 at 12:39 PM.
      05 VR GT Titanium Grey/Nordakp, sunroof, Winter Package, Premium sound with Volvo Sub. VST rear brace, Ultra Racing front strut brace. iPD Sways and other little upgrades they have. EST DP with Touring Exhaust.

    24. #22
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      IAnd lastly maybe a dumb question but I thought I ordered the correct exhaust manifold nuts from FCP. The nuts that showed up are too big ... did I order the wrong part, or did FCP goof?

      Well, to answer my own question, VIDA shows these nuts as part # 985868. Somehow I ordered part # 977211 which isn't correct.

      Edit: Nevermind, got some from the local dealer (Culver City Volvo).
      Last edited by lawdogg; 03-02-2019 at 06:53 PM.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    25. #23
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      outside Boston area
      Posts
      183
      I suggest you order an oversize stud when you order the nut.

      I have never had good luck with screw extractors if this is your plan. Is risky because if you break the extractor, may not be able to drill it out. The stud likely broke because it has corroded and is seized up in the threads. Lots of soaking in penetrating oil may help.

      If you have to re-tap the hole you are better off going up one size so you cut new complete threads. Trying to re-tap an existing threaded hole may result in cross cutting existing threads which will loose holding strength. If your drill is not perfectly centered, I do not think you can retap with existing size.

      Let us know how you make out in case we have to do the same. My turbo needs rebuilding or replacing due to oil consumption.
      Last edited by dcm0123; 03-02-2019 at 08:11 AM.

    26. #24
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2012
      Location
      Santa Cruz, Ca
      Posts
      2,377
      C’mon Ryan.... you know the right way is to yank the head and shim it while you’re in there. You’re going to do all this work and then loose a sleeve, which will be a travesty.

      Easy for the shop to extract it when the surface the head and install new seals.

      You might even find the source of your mystery detonation when you’re in there.




      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
      06 VR GT - daily driver ~18" TSW Nurburgring wheels ~Contrast Stage 4 ~Shimmed block ~EFR7163 turbo ~1050cc Injectors ~TorqByte PM3 fuel pump and CM5-LT W/M controllers ~track spec IPD Bars ~Ultra Racing front strut bar & VST rear strut bar ~SS brake lines~Innovate Boost & AFR fail safe

    27. #25
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Finally a weekend day without rain, but bad news. The cobalt bits are not even making a dent. The first two smallest bits snapped almost immediately, and the third is doing jack ****.

      I've also realized the stud torqued off leaving a sharp point in the middle, so there's no way I can even center the bit in the middle. I'm stuck trying to drill close to the threads.

      Aside from the fact that this is in the worst possible place, I have to sit on the engine to do it, and I can't see **** even with a real mirror in there.

      Any tips to try out or advice before I pull the head?
      Last edited by lawdogg; 03-09-2019 at 04:53 PM.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    28. #26
      Member CapeMayXC70's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Location
      South Jersey
      Posts
      1,150
      Drop the motor
      05 XC70R Ice White
      06 V70R GT TiGrey/Gobi

      Sold & missed: 05 V70R M66 Saffhire Black/Nordkap

    29. #27
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2012
      Location
      Santa Cruz, Ca
      Posts
      2,377
      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Finally a weekend day without rain, but bad news. The cobalt bits are not even making a dent. The first two smallest bits snapped almost immediately, and the third is doing jack ****.

      I've also realized the stud torqued off leaving a sharp point in the middle, so there's no way I can even center the bit in the middle. I'm stuck trying to drill close to the threads.

      Aside from the fact that this is in the worst possible place, I have to sit on the engine to do it, and I can't see **** even with a real mirror in there.

      Any tips to try out or advice before I pull the head?



      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
      06 VR GT - daily driver ~18" TSW Nurburgring wheels ~Contrast Stage 4 ~Shimmed block ~EFR7163 turbo ~1050cc Injectors ~TorqByte PM3 fuel pump and CM5-LT W/M controllers ~track spec IPD Bars ~Ultra Racing front strut bar & VST rear strut bar ~SS brake lines~Innovate Boost & AFR fail safe

    30. #28
      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Finally a weekend day without rain, but bad news. The cobalt bits are not even making a dent. The first two smallest bits snapped almost immediately, and the third is doing jack ****.

      I've also realized the stud torqued off leaving a sharp point in the middle, so there's no way I can even center the bit in the middle. I'm stuck trying to drill close to the threads.

      Aside from the fact that this is in the worst possible place, I have to sit on the engine to do it, and I can't see **** even with a real mirror in there.

      Any tips to try out or advice before I pull the head?

      Weld a nut on? The heat from the arc on top of penetrating oil breaks all kinda seized stuff loose

    31. #29
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      Anyone in Los Angeles willing to lend a hand (a) welding on a nut with the head in the car, (b) lending me a cam lock tool so I can pull the head, or (c) think you can drill it out where I have failed miserably?
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    32. #30
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      outside Boston area
      Posts
      183
      It looked like the stud was broken below the face of the head. I am not sure if it can be welded when this happens. Probably not.
      Tools arounf $50 in E-bay, may want to try local parts supply store to see if they lend them.
      Time to pull the head.
      Last edited by dcm0123; 03-30-2019 at 08:28 AM.

    33. #31
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Dec 2014
      Location
      Md
      Posts
      57
      Dogg,

      Why don't you make a jig plate using the exhaust manifold as a template out of 1/2" thick aluminum which can be bolted on to two of the good bolts. The plate will have 3 holes. Two will be used to bolt onto the engine (this will insure that the third hole is in the correct position with respect to the other two bolts) and the third hole (small guide hole just slightly larger than the drill bit diameter) will be used to set the position and the angle of the drill bit. This way all you need to think about is providing even pressure to drill into the broken bolt. Once you have successfully drilled the center of the bolt, keep on going up in drill bit sizes.
      2004 XC70 AWD Since new, now at 115,000 miles
      2009 S80 T6 AWD Since new, now at 105,000 miles
      "Be the change you wish to see in the world"

    34. #32
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2012
      Location
      Santa Cruz, Ca
      Posts
      2,377
      Quote Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
      Anyone in Los Angeles willing to lend a hand (a) welding on a nut with the head in the car, (b) lending me a cam lock tool so I can pull the head, or (c) think you can drill it out where I have failed miserably?
      I would gladly help if I was around.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
      06 VR GT - daily driver ~18" TSW Nurburgring wheels ~Contrast Stage 4 ~Shimmed block ~EFR7163 turbo ~1050cc Injectors ~TorqByte PM3 fuel pump and CM5-LT W/M controllers ~track spec IPD Bars ~Ultra Racing front strut bar & VST rear strut bar ~SS brake lines~Innovate Boost & AFR fail safe

    35. #33
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      outside Boston area
      Posts
      183
      Quote Originally Posted by duovolvo View Post
      Dogg,

      Why don't you make a jig plate using the exhaust manifold as a template out of 1/2" thick aluminum which can be bolted on to two of the good bolts. The plate will have 3 holes. Two will be used to bolt onto the engine (this will insure that the third hole is in the correct position with respect to the other two bolts) and the third hole (small guide hole just slightly larger than the drill bit diameter) will be used to set the position and the angle of the drill bit. This way all you need to think about is providing even pressure to drill into the broken bolt. Once you have successfully drilled the center of the bolt, keep on going up in drill bit sizes.
      This is a good idea to keep the drill straight and will make it less likely to break the drill bit.
      The broken bolt is likely a harder grade of steel. Suggest you buy at least 3 new drill bits for your initial drill size and buy one new new drill bit for each other size. It may dull fast.
      I typically start with an 1/8" bit. Smaller increases the likeliness of breaking, larger requires a lot of effort to push on the drill bit

    36. #34
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      633
      I would definitely try that if I still had my solidworks license and access to a waterjet.

      The 1/8" bit broke almost immediately when I tried it ... a Dewalt Cobalt bit. I guess breaking means it was biting right? Maybe I should pick up some more and try a few more times.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    37. #35
      Junior Member JeremyR's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Location
      Oregon, IL
      Posts
      525
      Oh man this is still going on.. regular bits dont do jack. I have best luck getting started with a counter sink bit at high speed.
      ie - https://drillsandcutters.com/3-0-reg...sink-qualtech/

      Put on a high speed angle drill, never seen a bolt it wouldnt cut into. Then you can get a standard bit to work or even better if you have a drill with high speed reverse run a left hand bit in which may also break it loose at the same time.

      Also once you get a hole drilled you can try to tap in an allen key and try to loosen it. Dont break the allen key off though, major pain. Lol

      Honestly drilling this out successfully is all about feel and technique. Too much force on the bit or not straight and snap. Also it sounds like you dont have a high speed drill like this.
      https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-ei...ill-67474.html
      Last edited by JeremyR; 03-30-2019 at 07:09 PM.
      2005 S60R | DRag 18" DR34, ET40(838) on 235/ Kenda Vezda UHP kr400 | Delrin | PowerStop | Eibach | Fixed/replaced everything at my shop, just rolled 200k, like new. Original engine, trans, & drivetrain.

    38. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    Page 1 of 8 1 2 3 4 5 ... LastLast

    Similar Threads

    1. Started. Stalled. Started. Stalled. Started.
      By peterbrown77 in forum V70 & V70XC & XC70 (2001-2007)
      Replies: 5
      Last Post: 05-18-2020, 04:04 AM
    2. Broken exhaust manifold stud [XC90 2.5t, 2006)
      By martinvh in forum XC90 (2003 - 2014)
      Replies: 7
      Last Post: 09-02-2017, 12:03 PM
    3. Broken exhaust stud removal idea
      By kjhiggins in forum S40 & V50 (2005-2012)
      Replies: 20
      Last Post: 07-21-2017, 10:52 AM
    4. Broken exhaust stud
      By NikMA in forum XC90 (2003 - 2014)
      Replies: 10
      Last Post: 12-07-2015, 08:03 PM
    5. Replies: 25
      Last Post: 10-30-2015, 10:19 PM