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Front Wheel Bearing Replacement Write-Up

49K views 109 replies 35 participants last post by  Richard99 
#1 ·
I just finished changing out my front wheel bearings. I wanted to do it properly, so I did use a special tool, but I didn't use the Volvo tool. The Volvo tool requires a press for it to work. The one I used does not.

The hubs on our cars are an all-in-one design with the bearing. They are referred in some areas as a generation 2 wheel bearings. You cannot just replace the bearing, you need to replace the entire hub assembly. Furthermore, you cannot just press a new one in and out, you need to apply force in the proper locations to ensure the longevity of the wheel bearing.

There is a lot of talk about the "proper way" to do this job, but, in my opinion, to properly and easily apply that force, you need a special tool. A few companies actually sell the tool you need. They come in different forms. I ended up getting a kit made by Laser Tools (https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5568).

Our hubs are 78mm, so make sure you get a tool with the correct size plates.

The tool is actually kinda cool. It's very simple to use and I removed/installed mine in no time. It eliminates all chances of not properly removing, or installing, the hubs. Just make sure you grease the threaded rod of the tool with moly grease each time you use it. If not, you could easily strip it.

For parts I used *** 713 6604 40. This kit comes with the axle bolt, updated splash shields for the new hub, and the hub. I couldn't find a kit from FCP or any other stores that included everything in one.

Here's the procedure to replace both.
1) Jack up the front end of the car.

2) Remove tires, support calipers, remove rotors and axle bolts.

3) Undo the LCA ball joint nut, and separate the LCA from the hub.

4) Push the axle into the hub, and pull the hub outward so that the axle stub is no longer in the hub.

5) Support the axle to the strut spring so that it is not dangling down.

Now it is time for the special tool. The one I used came with good directions and used numbers to show you what part goes where. There are two different sets of plates in the kit. One for removal, and one for installation. The difference is how it applies force to the hub. Use the applicable set.

6) Use the tool to remove the hub. You're going to need a long ratchet with a 22mm socket on it, and a 30mm wrench/socket to couterhold.

You slowly ratchet on the front nut until you see the hub start to come out of the knuckle. It should come straight out with no issue after it begins to move.

Installation

7) Grab the new hub assembly and apply some anti fretting paste to it.

8) Grab the other clamshells and use them to install the new hub.

The new hub will bottom out on the tool when it is fully installed. So you don't have to worry about it being in all the way.

9) Place the proper splash shield on the axle, and then push the axle into the new hub assembly.

The kit comes with two splash shield sizes - one goes on the passenger side axle, while the other goes on the driver side.

10) Place the LCA ball joint into the knuckle, and install the nut.

11) Reinstall the calipers, rotors, and tire.

If anyone wants to rent the tool or that, let me know!
 
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#51 ·
Thanks for the info. I'm doing my 4th bearing in 60k km.
Why so many?

Are you installing them using the proper tool?

What brands have you used?
4th bearing in total not just the front.
I beat the hell out of my car,
Who installs things properly? I know shops don't.
Cheap brands obviously. FCP takes decades to ship.
 
#55 ·
My apologies for bumping an older thread, but I've been looking into the process for replacing a wheel bearing on a '12 S60 T5. Does anyone know if the hubs on this S60 are also 78mm?
 
#58 ·
I read though this thread last week thinking to myself that I was glad I didn’t have to do this on my car yet.


Then my left front wheel bearing started growling today. Greeeeeaaaaaaaaat.


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#62 ·
Thanks for the photos. I ordered the tool and parts... hopefully it'll be here in a couple weeks.

In the meantime it's my only car available to get me to work. I've got about 200 miles in the next two weeks. All highway... hopefully it lasts. [emoji51] it's just barely audible now, lifted the car up and I can hear a faint noise coming from the left front but no play or slop yet.

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#63 ·
Well. Update.

My press tool never shipped. Refund issued. Got home from vacation. Dropped the car at my local import Indy shop for the first time. I’d taken a couple of my buddy’s cars there and always had good experiences. He lets you supply parts which is nice. Speaks in grunts and the occasional soft swear word. Shop is full of old e-type jags and porsches and other nice things.

Went to work for a few days. Came home. Collected car. $140 in parts, $572 in labor for the front two. The right front was pretty crispy and the left front wasn’t far behind (he always keeps the old parts so you can marvel at their carnage). All in all more than I wanted to spend but the simplicity of paying someone else to deal with it isn’t something I get to enjoy often, so I’m just happy I didn’t spend two days wrestling with it.

Unfortunately I still have a clunk/pop that happens from the left front when I touch the brakes... was hoping that would resolve itself during the disassembly/reassembly process. No such luck I guess.


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#64 ·
Have you checked your Lower Control Arm bushings lately? The clunk/pop is often a symptom of bad LCA bushings. Pretty easy to replace the entire LCA and you get new ball joints with the deal.
 
#72 ·
Have you checked your Lower Control Arm bushings lately? The clunk/pop is often a symptom of bad LCA bushings. Pretty easy to replace the entire LCA and you get new ball joints with the deal.
Control arms are relatively recent Lemforders... I wish it were that simple. Need to do some more fiddling to figure it out. It pops with the slightest brake pedal touch, not even enough to actually slow the car down or even move the suspension. Leads me to guess it's a pad/caliper noise of some sort.

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#65 ·
I just fitted new bearings/hub with this simple method....

Hub/bearing in freezer overnight.
Spindle in oven at 350*F for 20 minutes - remove the ABS connector!!!!!
Within seconds of getting each out of its location (oven/freezer) simply drop the bearing into the spindle.

Slided right in with no effort, only gravity!

Let cool for a couple of hours.

Install.

Worked like a charm! No press, no pricey tool.

In you can handle getting the spindles out of the car, that's the easiest solution.

If I am wrong, please advise me :)
 
#90 ·
I just fitted new bearings/hub with this simple method....

Hub/bearing in freezer overnight.
Spindle in oven at 350*F for 20 minutes - remove the ABS connector!!!!!
Within seconds of getting each out of its location (oven/freezer) simply drop the bearing into the spindle.

Slided right in with no effort, only gravity!

Let cool for a couple of hours.

Install.

Worked like a charm! No press, no pricey tool.

In you can handle getting the spindles out of the car, that's the easiest solution.

If I am wrong, please advise me :)
I don’t do the oven, car would not fit but the freezer over night for the bearing made it real easy.
 
#68 ·
Maybe should heat the spindle in the gas grill instead of the oven to keep the wife happy.
 
#70 ·
It will do the trick for sure. But, I think the spindle is painted to prevent corrosion. Doing so, the direct flame contact will burn the paint.

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#73 ·
For anyone concerned... I found the source of the noise. Apparently the akebono pads slide just enough in the caliper bracket to make that noise. I disassembled everything and was able to wiggle them back and forth and reproduce the sound. Slapped it all back together. Now that I know what it is, I don't care. [emoji23]

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#74 ·
How about strut mounts? Mine has been making an occasional clunk noise ever since I replaced the clutch and transmission. The subframe was removed to do the job so I thought that was the source. After checking all the bushings and torquing the bolts, I'm pretty sure the clunk is from the strut mounts. Had to manhandle the mounted strut a bit to get the axles out of and back into the hubs and may have messed them up.
 
#75 ·
AutoGeek, I’m experiencing something similar. I did an engine swap, and im getting a clunking sound when the car is moving. The only thing I replaced in the driveline was the clutch assembly. Goes in and out of gear with no issue. I asked on a couple of p2/ v70 forums on fb, but nobody answered.
 
#76 ·
It is kind of a stick-slip knock, like it pops into one position and will stay there until I do something like accelerate hard or turn the wheel and accelerate and pops the other way. I believe I have checked all the bolts that were disturbed to do the clutch/tranny, checked the sub-frame bushings and engine mounts. They all look good. Only thing I think is left is the strut mounts and they have 70K miles on them sitting on top Bilstein HDs. I have strut mounts and bearings on the way from FCP Euro.
 
#77 ·
Hi to all, in one post above, I mentioned that I had inserted the bearing using heat/freeze method. Worked quite well.

But now I have an issue and am wondering if it can be related to the (incorrect) installation of the bearing.

Question: can an incorrect installation of a new bearing cause damages to the bearing resulting in a wobble, comparable to an unbalanced wheel?

Some facts:
  • I am having wobbles in the steering wheel between 50 and 65mph
  • wobbles are intermittent - sometimes bad, sometimes barely noticeable in the steering wheel, at constant speed. means that while cruising at a steady 60mph for lets say at least 30 minutes, it goes on and off....
  • i have an ABS warning light (but dont know which side - VIDA is refusing to help...)

Some details to clear out possible causes:

  • new front a-arms/ball joint
  • new F-A-G bearings on both side (see above)
  • car is not pulling on one side or another, neither is it braking unevenly
  • no rumbling noise usually paired with crusty bearings (I know that sound....)
  • new passenger engine mount
  • a new but cheap Holstein ABS sensor that I had to knock a bit to have it inserted - maybe faulty out of the box or by knocking it
  • of the tree set of wheels I have tried
-- 17s Sculptor with perfect winter tires
-- 18s Midir with worn but even tires (what an harsh ride).... balanced but the garage mentioned they may be bended (not true)
-- and the actual 17s (from a S40) bought as a test set. Tires are worn uneven but still suitable. Seller said they were balanced and true.... But we never know if a seller tells the truth. No offense to anyone.

All of these sets wobbled. Some more than another. What are the chances that all of these sets are unbalanced and untrue?

Before plunding hundreds of $ on a new set of tires and balancing, I need to rule out the bearing question.

Repeating the question : can an incorrect installation of a new bearing cause damages to the bearing resulting in a wobble, comparable to an unbalanced wheel? What would be the symptoms of a damaged bearing?

Thanks for helping!
 
#78 ·
Hi to all, in one post above, I mentioned that I had inserted the bearing using heat/freeze method. Worked quite well.

But now I have an issue and am wondering if it can be related to the (incorrect) installation of the bearing.

Question: can an incorrect installation of a new bearing cause damages to the bearing resulting in a wobble, comparable to an unbalanced wheel?

Some facts:
  • I am having wobbles in the steering wheel between 50 and 65mph
  • wobbles are intermittent - sometimes bad, sometimes barely noticeable in the steering wheel, at constant speed. means that while cruising at a steady 60mph for lets say at least 30 minutes, it goes on and off....
  • i have an ABS warning light (but dont know which side - VIDA is refusing to help...)

Some details to clear out possible causes:

  • new front a-arms/ball joint
  • new F-A-G bearings on both side (see above)
  • car is not pulling on one side or another, neither is it braking unevenly
  • no rumbling noise usually paired with crusty bearings (I know that sound....)
  • new passenger engine mount
  • a new but cheap Holstein ABS sensor that I had to knock a bit to have it inserted - maybe faulty out of the box or by knocking it
  • of the tree set of wheels I have tried
-- 17s Sculptor with perfect winter tires
-- 18s Midir with worn but even tires (what an harsh ride).... balanced but the garage mentioned they may be bended (not true)
-- and the actual 17s (from a S40) bought as a test set. Tires are worn uneven but still suitable. Seller said they were balanced and true.... But we never know if a seller tells the truth. No offense to anyone.

All of these sets wobbled. Some more than another. What are the chances that all of these sets are unbalanced and untrue?

Before plunding hundreds of $ on a new set of tires and balancing, I need to rule out the bearing question.

Repeating the question : can an incorrect installation of a new bearing cause damages to the bearing resulting in a wobble, comparable to an unbalanced wheel? What would be the symptoms of a damaged bearing?

Thanks for helping!
I think the easiest way to test for this would to check for runout on your brake discs up front. Requires a dual gauge and clamp setup but would probably answer your question if you know your rotors are straight and not warped. If the rotors are good and you indicate a wobble with the runout test, gotta be the bearings unless I'm missing something.

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#79 ·
If the rotors are good
Rotors have less than 600miles.... but never been able to fit the metal wire supporting pads..... Any tip welcome!!!

Can it be the source of vibration? The car isn't pulling on one side. Goes straight ahead. Even on braking.

UPDATE

We all learn at some time..... Turns out the latest wheels ive used (17s) which I thought were P1 wheels from a S40 were actually from P2 S60/S80/V70..... The centerboard is larger on the latter (65mm) than on the P1 (63.4). I read right here on Swedespeed that if used without hub rings, it may produce vibrations comparable to an unbalanced wheel.

Ive fitted the 18s back on and went for a ride. Harsher yes, but much less vibration.

Someone can confirm that? P2 wheels on P1 is not a good thing?

Thanks!
 
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